
Class. 



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Book -- O?^ 

Copyright 1^^ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



SOYER'S STANDARD COOKERY 



SOYER'S STANDARD 
COOKERY 

A Complete Guide to the Art of Cooking 

Dainty, Varied, and Economical 

Dishes for the Household 



BY 

NICOLAS SOYER 

(Late Chef to Brooks's Club) 
Author of " Soyer's Paper Bag Cookery" 



ILLUSTRATED 



flew lorft 

STURGIS & WALTON 

COMPANY 

1912 



.ST5 



Copyright, 191* 

By STURGIS & WALTON COMPANY 

Set up and Electrotyped 

fubltsned, August, Jgi2 



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gClA3J0414 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Consommes — Soups i 

Sauces 36 

Fish and Fish Sauces 66 

Poultry and Game 113 

Vegetables 123 

Entrees 154 

Eggs 197 

Joints or Roasts 225 

Sweets and Pastry 230 

SoUFFLiS AND SoUFFLE OMELETTES 289 

Jellies. Jams, Preserves, Fruit, Pickles 295 

Cheese Dishes 307 

Vegetable Salads 314 

Fruits : Fresh, Preserved 318 

HoRS-D'CEuvREs 323 

Bread, Rolls, Muffins, Buns and Pastes 338 

Cake Fillings, Frostings and Icings 361 

Dishes Made With Cereals 371 

Special Tasty Dishes for Breakfast, Supper or High Tea 383 

Various Fruit Beverages 395 

Coffee and Cocoa 402 

Jewish Dishes 408 

A Week's Dinners for the Working-Man's Home .... 416 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

A Simple Dish of Dessert (in Color) Frontispiece 

TO FACE 
PAGE 

Facsimile Title-page of an Early Cookery Book published by 

Alexis Soyer viii 

Various Cold Collations {in Color) 40 

Cutlets in Preparation for Cooking 172 

Roast Ribs of Beef: Method of Carving 200 

Saddle of Mutton: How to Carve (No. i) 226 

Saddle of Mutton: How to Carve (No. 2) 228 

Joints Made Ready for Table {in Color) 306 

Various Cakes and Confections {in Color) 360 

Ham' Prepared for Table 3^0 

How to Make Good Coffee (No. i) 404 

How to Make Good Coffee (No. 2) 406 



INTRODUCTION. 

There was a saying, current many years ago, that " the 
French have a hundred sauces and one reHgion, while the 
English are a nation of a hundred religions and one sauce." 

This friendly gibe has lost its point, for while the French 
have retained their hundred sauces, and even added to the 
number, they have come near to losing — if they have not lost — 
their one religion; while the English, with their tale of religions 
undiminished, have, thanks to their French neighbors, given 
kindly welcome to more than ten times one hundred sauces, 
and made it difficult to trace the one which used to reign in 
solitary state. 

And this remarkable change dates from that significant 
period — the early days last century — when, balked of our 
subjugation by the sword, the gallant Frenchmen came, saw 
and conquered us with a force comprised of but two enter- 
prising chefs, armed with nothing more warlike than their 
toasting-forks and brains-marie ! 

Louis Eustache Ude and Alexis Soyer were the names of 
the doughty ones, and while both achieved fame in their 
day, it was given only to Alexis Soyer to have his name last- 
ingly engraved on the Scroll of Fame. 

" The impression grows on us," said The Globe, in a burst 
of enthusiasm, " that the man of the age is neither Sir Robert 
Peel, nor Lord John Russell, nor even Ibrahim Pacha, but 
Alexis Soyer." 

" Soyer has taught us to eat not to appease hunger, but 
to elevate the soul," said The Times in 1847, whilst George 
Augustus Sala, with a magnanimity the more remarkable be- 
cause he so seldom praised, wrote of his one-time patron: — 

" He was, in more than one sense, a public benefactor, and 
won the respect of all by a great capacity for organization, 
and by the manliness, simplicity, and uprightness of his char- 
acter." 

Born in 1809 at Miaux-en-Brie, Soyer was destined by his 
parents for the service of the Church, but the life ecclesiastical 
proved not to his taste, so in 1820 he went to Paris, and was 
apprenticed to a cook at Grignon. He quickly rose to be 



vl INTRODUCTION. 

head of the kitchen, but coquetted with the idea of qualifying 
as an actor on the comic stage. But steady promotion and 
his brother's entreaties taught him that as chef he might com- 
bine his fancies, tickling the wit of his patrons while he tickled 
their palate; and so in 1821, he was appointed second-in- 
command of the Foreign Office Kitchen in Paris, an appoint- 
ment not without danger, for during the same year the Revolu- 
tionaries forced their way into the apartment of pots and 
pans, butchering the stafif, and it was only by promptly and 
ostentatiously chanting the Marseillaise that young Soyer es- 
caped unhurt though frightened. 

He discovered that Paris was too warm, even for a chef, so 
came to London^ joining his brother in the kitchens of the 
Duke of Cambridge, followed by appointments with the Duke 
of Sutherland and the Marquis of Waterford; after which he 
took service with Mr. Lloyd, of Aston Hall, Oswestry, a gener- 
ous patron who was subsequently instrumental in installing 
the young Frenchman as chef of the Reform Club. 

The Coronation Breakfast, given at the Club to two thousand 
notable guests, proved the stuff of which the young chef was 
made, and from that moment he was famous. 

The kitchens at the Reform Club — designed by Soyer — 
excited the wonder of the world, and brought a constant stream 
of visitors, who departed marveling at the completeness of 
detail displayed and chuckling over the witticisms of the chef. 

His fame increased until scarcely any gastronomic function 
of importance was projected without first consulting him. 

This is no place to write at length of his romantic marriage 
with Emma Jones, the young Welsh artist — the " English 
Murillo," as she was called — although the manner of his woo- 
ing and the fashionable wedding at St. George's, Hanover 
Square, are tempting themes ; nor may we dwell on the loss sus- 
tained by her husband and the artistic world when Madame 
Soyer died in 1842. It is sufficient to say that while her life 
was an inspiration to her husband, her death marked the turn- 
ing-point in his career. 

He realized that basking in the smiles of high-born dames 
was not the summnm-honum of existence; and with the idea 
that the wealthy might well be left to take care of themselves, 
he began to devote his attention to the cookery methods of the 
multitudes, and resigned his position at the Reform Club 
because, said he : — " through the stone walls of that edifice 
I could not gain the slightest knowledge of cottage life," 



INTRODUCTION. vii 

The terrible Irish Potato Famine gave him an opportunity 
to put his philanthropic ideas into practice, and just when 
the peasants were dying by hundreds, he went over to Ireland 
and personally superintended schemes which he had formu- 
lated for the immediate alleviation of distress and want. 

Public soup-kitchens were erected — the whole plan of which 
was the product of Soyer's fertile brain, as was also the 
elaborate system whereby thousands of the poor were mar- 
shalled, fed and dismissed in a few hours. At this juncture 
he published Charitable Cookery, at the price of 6d., part of the 
proceeds of the sale going to a fund which had been opened 
for the relief of the poor. 

The Great Exhibition in Hyde Park gave him a further 
opportunity for the display of his peculiar talents. He took 
Gore House, late the residence of the Countess of Plessington, 
and turned it into a vast restaurant which he called " Soyer's 
Symposium, a Restaurant for all Nations," providing thou- 
sands of meals per day at popular prices, the menus ranging 
from those suited to modest purses to those which cost many 
guineas. It was at this time that he commissioned the young 
G. A. Sala to paint on the grand staircase a panorama which 
was entitled " The Grand Macedoine of all Nations ; being 
a Demisemitragicomipanodicosmopolytolyofanofunniosymposio- 
rama, or Suchagettingupstairstothegreatexhibition of 185 1," 
much to the artist's annoyance, who was, even in those early 
days, of a somewhat irascible temperament. Soyer spent a for- 
tune on this project, and came out of it " with exactly £100 in 
the whole world," a reversal of fortune for which he was not 
prepared, and which was, in a measure, due to grandmotherly 
and high-handed interference from the authorities. 

Nothing daunted, however, he next turned his attention 
seriously to the production of books on cookery, and from the 
sales of these he repeated a rich harvest. 

News of the distress in the Hospital Camps at Scutari fired 
his brain to the formulation of a great project, and on February 
2, 1855, London was electrified with a letter from Soyer in 
The Times of that date, offering to go to the Barrack Hospital, 
at Scutari, at his own expense, and to give his services in the 
work of organizing and regulating the kitchen operations there. 

He was the hero of the day; his offer was accepted by the 
Government, and in a remarkably short period of time he had 
caused special stoves to be constructed which, together with 
the necessary stores, he took with him to the field of battle. 



viii INTRODUCTION. 

His Culinary Campaign, published in 1857, is not only 
illuminating as to the man and his methods, while working 
hand in hand with Florence Nightingale, but also affords an 
interesting sidelight on the history of that memorable period. 

Volatile to a degree, he never spared himself either in the 
kitchen or study. His Pantropheon, or History of Food and 
its Preparation from the Earliest Ages of the World, is the 
most remarkable book of its kind in our language, representing 
a compilation at once stupendous and masterly. 

His success in the Crimea naturally turned the eyes of the 
authorities to the man who had worked such wonders, and 
the whole system of cookery for the Army and Navy was, as 
a consequence, completely reorganized by Soyer. It was really 
the outcome of a lecture which he delivered on March 18, 
1858, before the United Service Institution, and was followed 
by an instruction from the Barracks and Hospitals Commis- 
sioners to revise and reform the dietary of Military Hospitals. 
His ideas and most of his special menus were embodied in 
the famous Army Regulations and Orders — 11 — Cookery, 
issued in i860, and these, together with his Field Kitchen for 
the Army, have been scarcely altered since his day. 

He died August 5, 1858, at the early age of forty-nine, 
universally regretted; worn out in the service of his adopted 
country. 

And now, after the passing of half a century, during which 
time Soyer's name has been spoken and written about by 
epicures and gourmets, in terms which leave no doubt in our 
minds as to the influence the man and his methods exerted on 
English cookery, his grandson, Nicolas Soyer, comes before 
the public in a dramatic fashion. Leaving a lucrative appoint- 
ment as chef to a great and exclusive London Club, he has 
devoted his attention and energies to the question of Cookery 
for the People, thus carrying on the good work started by his 
grandfather and giving additional luster to the family name. 

Those who know Nicolas Soyer intimately have quite easily 
discovered how much of the grandfather there is in the grand- 
son. The same high appreciation of his art; the same inven- 
tive genius ; the same passion for organization ; the same mag- 
netic personality which characterized Alexis Soyer are typical 
of Nicolas. 

Originally destined for the Church, he, like his grandfather, 
left the Church for the kitchen, taking service under Papon, 
a famed confectioner of Clermont-Ferrand. 



■«! 










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Facsimile Title-page from an early cookery book published by the 
famous Chef, Alexis Soyer — the author's grandfather. 



INTRODUCTION. ix 

Like his illustrious ancestor, he came to London, and, after 
prehminary appointments in various large kitchens, became in 
turn chef to the Dowager Duchess of Newcastle, and Sir 
Herbert Naylor-Leyland, followed by a period of eight or nine 
years, during which he speculated with varying success in cer- 
tain large enterprises, until at last he returned to his old love 
and became chef to Lord Suffolk, a post which he relinquished 
to become head of the kitchen to that exclusive coterie known 
as Brooks's Club. 

Whilst at Brooks's he tickled the noble palates of those up- 
stairs with dishes, the flavor and perfect cooking of which 
excited wonder and comment. The situation was truly comic, 
for Soyer was at this time nearing perfection in a series of 
experiments towards Cookery Reformation intended to benefit 
the masses, and was concluding his experiments by practicing 
on the delicate digestions of the most select of the " Upper Ten 
Thousand." 

Nothing remained but to wait for a favorable opportunity 
to bring his scheme before the world, and this came at last in 
an indirect fashion by reason of a challenge from a German 
rival, who claimed great and lasting benefits from the use of a 
special stove which he had invented. 

Soyer accepted the challenge and launched his sensational 
Paper-Bag Cookery, a system of economical cookery which 
took the public by storm, and is now, one year after its intro- 
duction, practiced by delighted housewives in many kitchens 
throughout the world. Praise, criticism and controversy have 
been lavished on Soyer's Paper-Bag Cookery, and they have 
combined in making the name of Soyer to-day equal, if not 
excel, the popularity accorded the family name in the days of 
an older generation. 

Once a chef, always a chef, and Nicolas Soyer is no exception 
to the rule. He looks upon his Paper-Bag System as a mere 
interlude in his life — important and beneficent to mankind 
though it may be — and since, in the hundreds of popular 
demonstrations which he has personally conducted in both 
Europe and America, he has been urged to give to the world a 
book of General Cookery, he has felt it incumbent upon him to 
accede to these insistent requests and the result is this present 
volume. 

As its title indicates, it is a complete guide to the art of 
cooking dainty, varied and economical dishes for the household. 

Within these pages is embodied the experience of a life- 



X INTRODUCTION. 

time as chef in many of the great homes of England, and every- 
one of the recipes is thoroughly recommended by Monsieur 
Soyer as worthy of careful consideration and equally careful 
preparation. 

It is not a household guide. M. Soyer has too great a respect 
for the housewife to presume to teach her how to manage her 
household, a task which she has reduced to a fine art. 

With a view to making the work as complete as possible, the 
bulk of the recipes contained in the brochure, Paper Bag Cook- 
ery, have been incorporated, thus bringing within the scope 
of a handy volume as complete a guide to present day cookery 
as could be conceived. 

W. J. R. 



CONSOMMES — SOUPS. 

Clear Soup. 

Procure five pounds of shin of beef, one pound of knuckle 
of veal, and soak for six hours in plenty of cold water. 

Procure vegetables as follows : — three medium-sized carrots, 
two turnips, two leeks, four onions, all of which should be 
blanched. 

Into a stock-pot place the meat and vegetables and two gal- 
lons of water, into which drop a teaspoonful of peppercorns 
and two cloves ; bring to boil and after they have boiled to- 
gether for one hour, carefully remove vegetables for use with 
your soup, after being cut into fancy shapes. 

Continue boiling the meat for a further three hours, occa- 
sionally skimming ofif fat, and taking care to fill up the stock- 
pot with BOILING WATER should the liquor show signs of dimin- 
ishing. The fat skimmed off should be dropped into a bowl 
and, after clarifying, can be used for frying. The meat should 
be removed from the stock and placed on a flat dish. 

Clarifying Second Stock. — If you have any cold meat you 
desire to be used up, place it on a dish and leave in oven un- 
til a light brown. Place this in a stock-pot with the meat left 
from stock-pot (see above) on top. Fill up with cold water 
and bring to boil, skimming thoroughly and always replenishing 
the liquor by addition of boiling water. Add two onions, two 
carrots, one leek, one turnip and a sprig of parsley, all pre- 
viously blanched; to these add a teaspoonful of peppercorns 
and salt to taste. Boil for five hours, after which strain through 
a muslin into a large bowl and leave until next day, when skim 
off fat which may have collected. 

Now pass through a meat chopper three pounds of lean gravy 
beef. Place this in a large bowl, adding whites of two eggs, 
squeezing together so as to compact. Add two quarts of 
water, glass by glass, squeezing the mass all the while. Now 
add the stock as above, place in a very clean stock-pot, and 
bring to boil, continually stirring. When boiling, place stock- 
pot on side of stove and let simmer slowly for one hour. 

Now strain the liquor through a double fold of muslin into a 
bowl and set on a shelf in the pantry, raising it on small blocks 
so that air may pass beneath, thus allowing to cool rapidly and 
prevent fermentation. 



2 STANDARD COOKERY. 

The carcase of a chicken, broken small and slightly browned 
in the oven, is a valuable addition to the above when simmer- 
ing by the stove-side. 

Stock for Brown Sauce. 

Ingredients. — Three pounds knuckle of beef; two pounds 
knuckle of veal, one ham-bone or half-pound of ham fat. The 
carcase of a chicken. Mutton or duck should never be used. 

Into a stock-pot place three onions, shredded, one carrot, 
blanched and thinly sliced, six tomatoes, without seeds (half 
a can of tomato puree, with teaspoonful of castor sugar, will 
do if fresh tomato is unobtainable) ; add the ham fat and a 
little dripping. Allow to simmer, but not to take color, for 
a quarter of an hour. Now add the meat and fill up with two 
gallons of water, also adding a bouquet garni (two bay leaves, 
sprig each of thyme and parsley, tied in a bunch), half stick of 
celery and teaspoonful of peppercorn. Boil for five hours, oc- 
casionally skimming off fat, but always filling up to two gal- 
lons with boiling water. Now strain through a coarse strainer 
and allow liquor to stand until next day, when remove fat 
which has risen. 

Place liquor in a clean stock-pot and bring to boil. 

Take in a bowl two ounces of fecule flour, or arrowroot, 
well dissolve it in two wine glasses full of Sherry or Madeira 
or mushroom juice (or water, if economy be desired). Now 
keep stirring boiling stock and while stirring, add slowly the 
foregoing liquid until stock thickens. Now remove from fire 
and allow to boil quietly for two or three minutes. Add col- 
oring matter until a light brown. Strain through fine muslin 
and the result is a Brown Sauce. Place this in a large basin 
and stir occasionally until cold, thus preventing fermentation. 
By boiling this mixture and putting into a clean bowl every 
second day this sauce will keep until all used up. 

White Thick Stock for Soup and Sauces. 

This recipe is known only to Chefs of great repute and is 
one of the leading white sauces in all cooking. 

Method. — Make the same stock as for Brown Sauce but 
omit tomato and coloring and anything which would tend to 
color. Also be sure to add no game. 

Blanch and chop finely one onion and one carrot. Dry 
these and place in a frying pan with one ounce of butter and 
a teaspoonful of castor sugar. Fry until vegetables are just 
soft but not colored. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 3 

Melt in a stewpan half pound of butter to which add suffi- 
cient flour to make a paste. Fill up slowly with two gallons of 
stock, well mixing, and add the vegetables as above with the 
addition of a bouquet garni. Place on fire, stirring continually, 
until boiled. Then allow to simmer gently for one hour, oc- 
casionally skimming off fat and adding boiling water as re- 
quired. 

Chicken Consomme. 

This is prepared exactly as the other, but after clarifying, 
you take off the breast of a chicken or fowl, put the carcase 
in oven until light brown. Drop this free of grease into con- 
somme and allow to simmer for one hour or one and a half 
hours. 

Clear Game Soup. 

Exactly the same process. Take any game, grouse, hare, 
partridge, etc., etc. In serving game soup a wineglassful of 
Madeira is a great improvement. 

Fish Consomme. 

Fillet three soles of whiting. Take the bones and place in a 
stewpan into which has previously been dropped butter about 
size of an egg. Half a chopped onion, half a carrot minced 
(both previously blanched)^ one bayleaf, sprig of thyme, lit- 
tle parsley, teaspoonful of peppercorn. Allow this to simmer 
quietly for twenty minutes, then strain through muslin into a 
vessel and allow to cool, which permits the butter to be sep- 
arated from it. This method is the only one for soup and the 
formation of all fish sauces, which is generally called in large 
kitchens by the name of Fumee. 

For clarifying the above it is necessary to add two quarts of 
water. Place two whites of eggs in a basin, whisk slightly, 
add a glass of water gradually; place egg, water and fumee in 
a stewpan and stir continually until boiling. Draw to side of 
stove and allow to simmer for twenty minutes. Pass all through 
muslin and store in a cool place. If not used, must be brought 
to the boil every day. 

Clear Fish Soup. 
Is made with the above. Four yolks of eggs; place in a stew- 
pan, two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, three tablespoonfuls cream, 
salt and pepper at discretion, one glass of Madeira, stir well 
together, pouring into stock of clarified fumee and bring to 
boil, whisking continually. Strain into soup-tureen, and it is 
ready to serve with bread cut into small squares and fried in 
butter until light brown, or toast would do. 



4 STANDARD COOKERY. 

This soup can be made by using the fish stock before clari- 
fying, but the use of the clarified stock is preferable. 

Thick Fish Soup. 

For Thick Fish Soup, composed of any fish. 

Place two ounces of butter in a stewpan to hold four quarts 
of stock, add two large tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, stand 
on fire for two or three minutes but do not allow to color. 
Take off stewpan from fire, add three tablespoonfuls of flour 
well mixed. Add two quarts of fish stock and bring to boil, 
continually stirring. Add one bay leaf, little thyme and parsley 
tied together. One teaspoonful of peppercorn, little salt, two 
or three drops of Tabasco. Let this boil for half an hour, 
skimming at intervals. 

* Prepare in a saucepan four yolks of eggs, four tablespoon- 
fuls of cream. Take some of boiling mixture and pour over 
these, stirring quickly. Pour all back into the stewpan, stir- 
ring briskly. Whisking is preferable to stirring with a spoon. 
Bring to boil, stirring constantly, strain into soup-tureen add- 
ing one glass of Madeira or sherry. Serve with croiitons. 

Vegetables Prepared for Soup, Stew, or Garnishing. 

All Carrots, Turnips, Celery, Onions, must be blanched. 

Blanching means to put these vegetables in cold water (but 
see that the water covers them), and boil for three minutes; 
then strain at once. This is the only way to secure a good 
flavor in soup, the vegetables helping to modify and not spoil 
the flavor of the meat or chicken; also securing tenderness in 
the vegetables themselves. Of course, these vegetables are 
cut up in different shapes before being blanched. This method 
will be found the most perfect in existence. 

Clear Vegetable Soup. 

Peel a medium-sized carrot and turnip, which cut first into 
slices, then into small square pieces about the size of dice; 
peel also eighteen button onions; wash the whole in cold 
water and drain them upon a sieve; when dry put them into a 
stewpan with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of pow- 
dered sugar; set them upon a very sharp fire for ten minutes, 
tossing them over every now and then until the vegetables be- 
come covered with a thin shiny glaze, which may take rather 
more than the before-mentioned time; care, however, must be 
taken, for should you let them get brown, the flavor of the 

* This not to be done until dinner is just about to be served, as it is 
more satisfactory when prepared at tbs last moment. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 5 

soup would be spoiled; whilst, upon the other hand, if put in 
whilst surrounded with a whitish liquid, your soup would look 
white and unsightly. With a little attention, however, suc- 
cess is certain ; and, once accomplished, there would be no 
difficulty in making any vegetable soups or sauce; therefore it 
is very desirable to know how to do it properly. When done, 
pour two quarts of clear broth over them, set it upon the fire, 
and when upon the point of boiling, place it at the corner to 
simmer, until the vegetables are quite tender (the onions es- 
pecially), carefully skimming off all the butter as it rises to 
the surface; it will require about half an hour's simmering, 
and there should be half a pound of vegetables to two quarts 
of stock; taste if properly seasoned, which it ought to be with 
the above proportions, but use your own judgment accordingly. 
The only difference to be made in these descriptions of soup 
is in the way the vegetables are cut ; cutters for the purpose 
may be purchased at most hardware shops at a trifling ex- 
pense. 

Printaniere Soup. 

Cut a small quantity of vegetables, as in the last, but rather 
less carrot and turnip, introducing a little celery, leek, and 
young spring onions, instead of the button onions; proceed ex- 
actly as before, but ten minutes before taking it from the fire, 
wash a few leaves of sorrel, which cut small and put into the 
soup, with six sprigs of chervil; in summer, a few fresh-boiled 
peas or French beans served in it is an improvement. 

In whatever shape you may cut the vegetables for soup, al- 
ways be cautious not to cut some pieces larger than others, 
and the whole of them rather small than large; for if some 
pieces should be small and others large, the smaller pieces 
would quite be in puree, whilst the larger ones would still be 
quite hard, which would cause your soup not only to eat badly, 
but give it an unsightly appearance, for the vegetable boiled 
to a puree would make the soup thick. The above remark, 
although simple, is still very important. 

Consomme Printanier. 

Have ready one quart of consomme, also cut one carrot and 
one turnip into roundels one-half inch thick. With a tubular 
cutter, cut these roundels into little rods, making a sufficient 
number to fill one tablespoon with each vegetable. Cook these 
little rods in consomme. 

Put the carrot and turnip rods into the soup-tureen with 



6 STANDARD COOKERY. 

one tablespoonful of small peas, the same quantity of small 
French beans and asparagus-heads, the former cut into lozenges, 
ten roundels of sorrel leaves, and as many of lettuce leaves, 
the latter being poached in some consomme. When about to 
serve, pour the boiling consomme over these garnishes and 
add a large pinch of small chervil pluches. 

Consomme Printanier Aux Quenelles. 

Prepare the printanier as directed above, but lessen the 
quantities of the vegetables. 

Make some small quenelles of chicken forcemeat and poach 
them before dishing up. 

Drain them, put them into the soup-turcen with the other 
garnishes, and pour thereon the boiling consomme. 

Consomme Demidoff. 

With the small spoon-cutter, pick out a good tablespoonful of 
carrot, and the same quantity of turnip pearls. Cook these 
vegetables in the customary way, and put them in the soup- 
tureen, the same quantity of peas, and small, poached, chicken 
forcemeat quenelles with herbs. Pour one quart of boiling 
chicken consomme over this garnish and add a pinch of cher- 
vil pluches. 

Consomme Deslignac. 

Prepare two small, stuffed lettuces, rolled into sausage form, 
and poached; two babamolds of royale with cream. Cut the 
royale into small dice; trim the lettuce and cut into slices; 
put this garnish into the soup-tureen and pour thereon one 
quart of boiling consomme, thickened with two tablespoonfuls 
of poached tapioca. Add a pinch of chervil pluches. 

Croute Au Pot. 

Prepare a freshly-cooked vegetable garnish for a stock-pot 
— carrots and turnips cut into small sticks and trimmed; a 
few heads of leeks, and cabbage, parboiled, minced, and cooked 
in consomme. 

Also prepare seven or eight crusts of French soup " flutes " 
and dry them in the oven. Put the vegetable garnish into the 
soup-tureen ; pour on two quarts of consomme and add the 
dried crusts in soup-tureen. 

Maigre Soup. 
Cut two onions into very small dice, and put them into a 
stewpan, with two ounces of butter; fry them a short time, 
but not to discolor them; have ready three or four handsful 



STANDARD COOKERY. 7 

of well-washed sorrel, which cut into ribands and put into 
the stewpan with the onions, add one tablespoon of flour, then 
mix well a pint of milk and a quart of water; boil altogether 
twenty minutes, keeping it stirred; season with a teaspoonful 
of sugar and salt, take it from the fire, and stir in quickly a 
liaison * of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream or 
milk (it must not boil afterwards), put the crust of a French 
roll, cut into strips, in the tureen, pour the soup over, and serve 
very hot. 

Onion Soup Maigre. 
Peel and cut six large onions into small dice, put them into 
a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, place them 
over the fire until well fried, then mix in well a tablespoonful 
of flour, and rather more than a quart of water; boil until the 
onions are quite tender, season with a spoonful of salt and a 
little sugar; finish with a liaison, and serve as in the last. 

French Cabbage Soup. 

This is a soup very much in vogue amongst the middle 
classes of the French people. It is very economical, and will 
satisfy a numerous family at a trifling expense. Put a gallon 
of water into a saucepan with two pounds of streaky salt pork 
or bacon, to which add a couple of pounds of white cabbage, 
cut in strips (using every part but the stalk, and previously 
well washed), two large onions, a carrot, a turnip, and a head 
of celery; let the whole boil three or four hours, until the pork 
is tender, skimming off all the fat, season with a little black 
pepper, brown sugar, and salt, if required; lay slices of bread 
(about one pound) in your tureen, pour the soup over; keep 
the tureen covered ten minutes, until the bread is soaked, when 
it is ready to serve. The pork or bacon may be either served 
separate or cut into small square pieces, and served in the 
soup. A few mealy potatoes are sometimes introduced, or 
a quart of large green peas, or a pint of dry split peas. 

It is also frequently made by omitting the pork or bacon, add- 
ing more vegetables of all kinds, and a quarter of a pound 
of butter, and frequently where they have nothing else but 
cabbage, they make it only of that. I have known strong, 
healthy men make a hearty meal of it, preferring it to meat, of 
which they scarcely ever partake. 

Puree of Vegetable Soup. 
Peel and cut up very finely three onions, three turnips, one 

• See page 62. 



8 STANDARD COOKERY. 

carrot, and four potatoes, which put into a stewpan, with a 
quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham, and a bunch 
of parsley; pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire, then 
add a good spoonful of flour, which mix well in, add two quarts 
of stock, and a pint of boiling milk; stir it until boiling; season 
with a little salt and sugar, rub it through a sieve, put it in 
another stewpan, boil again, skim, and serve with croiitons of 
fried bread, as for Palestine Soup.* It ought to be thickish. 
Autumn Soup. 

Cut up four cabbage-lettuces, one cos ditto, a handful of 
sorrel, and a little tarragon and chervil ; when well washed 
and drained put them into a stewpan, with two cucumbers 
finely sliced, and two ounces of butter, place them over a 
brisk fire, stirring occasionally, until very little liquid remains ; 
then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring it well in ; then 
pour over three quarts of stock, adding a quart of young and 
fresh green peas; half an hour's boiling will suffice for this 
delicious soup, and the flavor of the vegetables will be fully 
preserved; season with a teaspoonful of salt, and two of 
sugar. 

Scotch Cock-a-Leekie. 

Trim two or three bunches of fine winter leeks, cutting off 
the roots and part of the heads, then split each in halves 
lengthwise, and each half into three, which wash well in two or 
three waters, then put them into a stewpan, with a stock pre- 
viously made, and a fowl trussed as for boiling; let the whole 
simmer very gently for three hours, keeping it well skimmed, 
seasoning a little if required ; half an hour before serving add 
two dozen French plums, without breaking them ; when ready 
to serve, take out the fowl, which cut into neat pieces, place 
them in a tureen, and pour the leeks and broth over, the leeks 
being then partly in puree ; if too thick, however, add a drop 
more broth or water. Should the leeks happen to be old and 
strong, it would be better to blanch them five minutes in a 
gallon of boiling water previous to putting them in the stock. 

Although ah old cock is usually used in Scotland for the 
above purpose, I prefer a young fowl ; but should an old one 
be most handy, stew it a long time in the stock. This soup 
will keep good several days, and would improve by warming a 
second time. 

Julienne Soup. 

This soup is entirely the hereditary property of France, and 

* See page ii. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 9 

is supposed to be so called from the months of June and July, 
when all vegetables are in full season ; and to make it as origin- 
ally made, a small quantity of every description of vegetables 
should be used, including lettuce, sorrel, and tarragon ; however, 
some few sorts of vegetables, mixed together, make a most es- 
timable soup. Weigh half a pound of the vegetables in fair 
proportions to each other; that is, carrots, turnips, onions, celery, 
and leeks, which cut into small fillets an inch in length and of 
the thickness of a trussing-needle; when done, wash, dry, and 
pass them in butter and sugar as before, add two parts of clear 
soup, adding, just before it is done, a little sorrel, cabbage- 
lettuce, and chervil or peas, if handy, but it will be excellent 
without either. 

Consomme Alexandra. 

Have a quart of excellent consomme ready ; add, in order to 
thicken slightly, three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, very 
clear. 

Put the following garnish in the soup tureen ; one tablespoon- 
ful of white chicken meat cut in fine julienne-fashion, one table- 
spoonful of small chicken quenelles, and one tablespoonful of 
lettuce, blanched. Over this pour the boiling consomme and 
serve at once. 

Tomato Soup (commonly called Portugaise). 

Take two pounds of tomatoes, remove stalks and wipe well. 
Get a large bowl full of boiling water, and drop four toma- 
toes at a time therein, leaving for twenty seconds ; remove 
quickly. Do this until all the tomatoes have been dealt with. 
This is done in order to remove the skins easily. 

Peel tomatoes and cut in two ; remove seeds. Take a stew- 
pan to hold four quarts of liquid, put therein two ounces of but- 
ter, one onion finely chopped and melt together for three min- 
utes to heat only but not to color, otherwise the soup will be 
spoiled, adding one teaspoonful of castor sugar, and a little 
salt; remove from the fire and add large tablespoonful of flour. 
Drop all the tomatoes into the mixture, mix well together with 
two tablespoonfuls of Mirepoix. Then add two quarts of meat 
stock (not clarified), boil briskly, stirring all the while, then 
allow to boil gently for one hour. Skim off grease from time 
to time and then pass through very fine sieve, return to stew- 
pan, season with pepper and salt or Tabasco, and if not thick 
enough a little arrow-root or fecule diluted in a little cold 
water will slightly thicken and add to the smoothness. 



10 STANDARD COOKERY. 

If color not rich enough, add cochineal, drop by drop, until 
deep enough, bring to boil and serve. 

This may be improved by adding the crushed carcase of 
a chicken to the soup ten minutes before serving, enriching 
the flavor to a remarkable degree. 

Artichoke Soup (commonly called Creme d' Artichoke or Pal- 
estine Soup). 

Method of Cooking Artichokes. — Peel eighteen good- 
sized Jerusalem Artichokes, previously well-washed. Place 
one tablespoon of salt into a stewpan holding four quarts. 
Add one good tablespoonful of flour, juice of one lemon or a 
tablespoonful of white vinegar, or both may be used. Grad- 
ually pour on three quarts of water, place artichokes into this 
and boil gently. A freshly-peeled artichoke usually takes 
thirty-five minutes to cook slowly. When they are soft they 
are cooked. 

This is the best way to cook artichokes, whether required as 
a dressed vegetable or for soup. This method preserves the 
purity of color and flavor. If not all used keep in the liquor. 

To Prepare the Soup. — 

For ten persons: put two ounces of butter, one small onion 
chopped, fry together until soft but not colored. Remove from 
fire and add two tablespoonfuls of flour, two quarts of hot 
water, two tablespoonfuls of Mirepoix, and bring all to boil, 
briskly stirring all the while. Place the boiled artichokes in 
this mixture, allow to boil for a quarter of an hour, pass 
through very fine sieve and return liquor to clean stewpan, add- 
ing three yolks of eggs and three tablespoonfuls of cream, 
previously stirred together. One tablespoonful of sugar with 
salt and pepper to taste. A little Tabasco may be added in- 
stead of the pepper if preferred. 

Serve with croutons in usual way. This is a soup made un- 
der the superintendence of all the great Chefs, but the recipe 
for which is rarely published. 

Consomme Ambassadeur. 
Have one quart of boiling consomme ready. Take three dif- 
ferent kinds of royale, cold, consisting of trufile puree, tomato 
puree, and puree of peas, each of which should have been 
poached in a dariole-mold. Cut the royales into regular dice 
and put them in the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of 
chicken fillet. Pour the boiling consomme over these garnishes 
and serve at once. 



STANDARD COOKERY. ii 

Palestine Soup or Puree of Artichokes (another method). 

Have a quarter of a pound of lean bacon or ham, as also 
an onion, a turnip, and a little celery, cut the whole into small 
thin slices, and put them into a stewpan, with two ounces of 
butter; place them over a sharp fire keeping them stirred, 
about twenty minutes, or until forming a whitish glaze at the 
bottom; then have ready washed, peeled, and cut into thin 
slices, about twelve artichokes, which put into the stewpan 
with a pint of broth or water, and stew until quite tender, 
then mix in two tablespoonfuls of flour quite smoothly, add 
two quarts of stock made as directed, and half a pint of milk; 
keep it constantly stirred until boiling; season with a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and two of sugar, then rub it through a sieve, 
place it again in a stewpan; let it boil five minutes, keeping it 
well skimmed, and serve with very small croiitons of bread 
(fried in butter, and dried upon a cloth) in the tureen; a gill 
of cream, stirred in at the moment of serving, is a great im- 
provement, although it may be omitted. 

Crecy Soup, or Puree of Carrots. 

Procure five or six large carrots, as red as possible, which 
scrape well, then shave them into very thin slices, taking off 
all the exterior red, but not using the center, then peel and 
slice a large onion, a turnip, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, 
a few sprigs of parsley, and two bay-leaves, put them into 
a stewpan, with four ounces of butter, fry the whole to a light 
yellowish color, then add the carrots, with a pint of water, and 
let them stew until perfectly tender, mix in two ounces of flour 
quite smoothly, and add five pints of stock; season with a little 
salt and sugar, and stir upon the fire until boiling, a quarter of 
an hour, when pass it through a sieve, and finish and serve as 
in the preceding; no cream, however, must be added. This 
soup ought to be of a red color. Boiled rice or fried croutons 
may be served in it. 

Green Pea Soup. 

Put two quarts of green peas into a stewpan with a quarter 
of a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, cut 
into small dice, two onions in slices, and a few sprigs of pars- 
ley; add a quart of cold water, and with the hands rub all well 
together; then pour off the water, cover the stewpan close, and 
stand it over a sharp fire, stirring the contents round occasion- 
ally; when very tender, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, which 
mix in well, mashing the peas with your spoon against the 



12 STANDARD COOKERY. 

sides of the stewpan, add two quarts of stock, or broth from 
the Pot-au feu, a tablespoon of sugar, and a little pepper and 
salt, if required ; boil all well together five minutes, when rub 
it through a hair sieve ; then put it into another stewpan with 
a pint of boiling milk; boil five minutes, skim well, and pour it 
into your tureen. It must not be too thick; serve with croiitons 
of bread as for Palestine Soup. 

Winter Pea Soup. 

Wash a quart of split peas, which put into a stewpan, with 
half a pound of streaked bacon, two onions in slices, two 
pounds of veal or beef, cut into small pieces, and a little pars- 
ley, thyme, and bay-leaf; add a gallon of water, with a little 
salt and sugar, place it upon the fire, and when boiling stand 
it at the side until the peas are boiled to a puree and the water 
has reduced to half; then take out the meat, which put upon a 
dish, to be eaten with the bacon, keeping it hot; rub the soup 
through a hair sieve. Put it into another stewpan, and when 
boiling, serve. The meat may also be served in the tureen if 
preferred. Maigre pea-soup may also be made by omitting the 
meat, adding half a pound of butter, one quart of milk, and 
omitting a quart of water. 

Consomme Andalusien. 

Prepare a mold of royale made from tomato puree. When 
quite cold cut into dice and put in the tureen with one table- 
spoonful of boiled rice. 

Pour one quart of boiling clear chicken consomme over the 
garnish and serve at once. 

Consomme Salburg. 

Cut a tablespoonful of carrot pellets and the same quantity 
of turnip. Cook these vegetables by boiling them in water, 
taking care not to overcook them, a tablespoonful of royale 
made from asparagus heads, and a dozen small chicken-forc.e- 
meat quenelles, in the shape of large pearls. 

Poach the quenelles, cut the royales up into slices and put 
the whole into the soup-tureen with the carrot and turnip pel- 
lets, and one tablespoonful of green peas. Pour a quart of 
boiling consomme over the garnish and serve. 

Consomme Boheme. 

Prepare a dariole-mold of foie-gras puree, and a few pro- 
fiterolles the size of hazelnuts, the latter being made very crisp. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 13 

When the royale is cold, cut into regular dice and put in the 
tureen. 

Pour over the garnish a quart of consomme thickened by 
three tablespoon fuls of poached tapioca, and serve. Send the 
profiterolles, very hot, to the table separately. 

Consomme Bouqueticre. 

Prepare a garnish of carrots and turnips cut with a tubular 
cutter; French beans cut into lozenges, and green peas, all of 
which vegetables should be fresh and young. Cook each sep- 
arately and then put into the soup-tureen. 

Over this garnish pour one quart of consomme thickened 
with two tablespoonfuls of perles du Japon, poached and strained 
through linen, then serve at once. 

Green Pea Soup. 

For six persons take one pint of freshly-shelled peas and 
three pints of water, boil in usual way and when cooked re- 
tain the liquor. Take a small onion, chopped fine, and put into 
stewpan with two ounces of butter. When butter is dissolved 
add one large tablespoonful of flour and pour the peas and 
liquor into same. Add three large tablespoonfuls of Mirepoix, 
allow to simmer for half an hour. Then pass through very 
fine strainer or hair-sieve, place back into stewpan, add half 
a leaf of fresh mint, one tablespoonful of sugar, small piece 
of fresh butter, bring to boil quickly, stirring briskly the 
while, otherwise the mixture will burn. This produces a nice 
smooth full-flavored soup, commonly called St. Germain. 

Common and Cheap Vegetable Soups in Variety. 

A delicacy for households where economy has to be studied. 

Farmer's Soup (known in France as Fermiere). 

Take two ounces of butter, chop finely a large onion, slice 
thinly two leeks, shred finely six clean cabbage leaves, fry 
these slowly for five minutes to heat but not to color. Now 
add one branch of celery if in season. Take stewpan off 
fire and put one large tablespoonful of flour therein. Pour on 
this four quarts of water, place on fire and bring quickly to 
boil. Skim and add four large raw potatoes sliced. Boil for 
one hour slowly. Pass through strainer or sieve as for thick 
soup, salt, pepper and sugar to taste. Put back into stewpan 
and bring to boil quickly and serve. Any available scraps of 
ham added to the above while cooking much improve the 
flavor. 



14 STANDARD COOKERY. 

It can be further improved by the addition of two yolks of 
eggs and two tablespoonfuls of cream as explained in Cereal 
Soup. 

Puree Bonne Femme. 

To make above, prepare Farmer's Soup, and when ready to 
serve, take one handful of sorrel leaves, well washed, dried and 
finely chopped, place in a stewpan with one ounce of butter and 
melt together gently; stir well into soup-tureen just before 
serving. The flavor is delicious and refreshing and the soup 
a great favorite. 

Consomme Fermiere. (Another Method.) 

Mince finely, one small carrot, one small turnip, the heads 
of two leeks, and one onion. Slightly stew these vegetables 
in one and one-half ounce of butter; moisten with one and one- 
half pints of white consomme ; add two ounces of parboiled 
cabbage, cut into a julienne, and complete the cooking gently, 
taking care to remove all grease, with the view of obtaining 
a very clear consomme. Add a few thin slices of French 
bread cut thinly and dried. 

Garbure Soup. 

This soup may be made with all kinds of vegetables. 

Procedure. — Take a five quart stewpan, fill with water and 
bring to boil. Meanwhile clean a small cabbage, cutting away 
all stalk, and divide into four. Slice six good-sized potatoes, 
clean two leeks, and cut into half-inch lengths, slice one turnip 
and one carrot, and finely chop one large onion. Wash well 
all these vegetables and place in the stewpan when water boils. 
Into this put half a pint of haricot beans, which should have 
been soaking from the day before. 

To give strength and flavor add either one and a half pounds 
of knuckle of beef or veal, or half-pound of streaky bacon (pre- 
viously blanched for three minutes in boiling water), or the re- 
mains of a ham; either of these according to taste. Boil all to- 
gether slowly for one-and-a-half hours. Now withdraw the 
meat which may be served as a separate dish. Prepare crou- 
tons cut very thin and bake until a light brown, when serve 
with the soup. Before the soup is put into the tureen, the fat 
floating on top should be skimme^ off, after which add salt and 
pepper to taste. 

In ordinary French households this inexpensive dish is con- 
cocted every day and given to the children either at breakfast 
or supper. Prepared during the day it can be served hot at 



STANDARD COOKERY. 15 

night and anything remaining is warmed up for use in the 
morning. 

Consomme Bourdaloue. 

Prepare a dariole-mold of each of the four following royales. 

1. A puree of haricot-beans with a soupcon of tomato. 

2. A chicken puree moistened with veloute. 

3. A puree of asparagus-tops, with a few cooked spinach 
leaves, to give a color. 

4. A puree of carrot. 

Poach and cool the royales, then cut in fancy shapes. 
Put all into a soup-tureen and pour over a quart of boiling 
and very clear chicken consomme. Serve at once. 

Consomme Carmen. 

Prepare one quart of consomme to which add, while clarify- 
ing, one quarter pint of raw tomato puree in order to give it a 
faint pink tinge. 

Peel and press a small tomato; cut into dice and poach in a 
little of the consomme; put them into the soup-tureen with a 
tablesponful of mild capsicum, cut in julienne-fashion, and one 
tablespoonful of plain boiled rice. Over this garnish pour the 
boiling consomme, adding a small pinch of chervil pluches, then 
serve at once. 

Consomme Chartreuse. 

Prepare six ravioles of spinach puree. Six of foie-gras 
puree, and six of chopped mushrooms, two small tablespoonfuls 
of tomato dice. Ten minutes before serving, poach the ravioles 
in boiling salted water and the tomato dice in some of the con- 
somme. 

Put the ravioles and the tomato dice (well-drained) into 
the soup-tureen, and pour over them one quart of consomme 
with a moderate addition of tapioca. Add a pinch of chervil 
pluches. 

Onion Soup. 

This soup, which is easily and cheaply prepared, is in great 
favor in the rural parts of France. 

Cut four medium-sized onions into dice, put them into a stew- 
pan with two ounces of butter, and cook very gently for an 
hour, being careful that the onions do not become discolored. 
Next add half a pint of white stock, or water, a pint of milk, 
and one or two slices of bread reduced to crumbs, and simmer 
the whole gently for about three-quarters of an hour. Then 



i6 STANDARD COOKERY. 

pass the whole through a fine sieve, return it to the stewpan, 
and make very hot. 

Season with pepper and salt to taste, and sprinkle in two 
tablespoonfuls of grated cheese gradually, stirring briskly 
meanwhile. Serve as hot as possible. 

Chickory Soup. 

Trim four heads of chickory, boil until half cooked, then 
drain and mince very finely. Mix well with this two ounces 
each of flour and butter and a sprinkling of pepper, salt and 
mace. Next place the mixture in a saucepan with a quart of 
white stock and a cupful of boiling milk. Cook carefully for 
an hour. Now beat the yolks of two eggs in half a cupful of 
milk, add to the soup as soon it has gone ofif the boil, and strain 
the whole through a fine sieve. Serve as quickly as possible. 

Watercress Soup. 

Take two or three good handfuls of tender shoots of water- 
cress, thoroughly wash and drain from all superfluous moisture. 
If the sprigs are at all long break them up. Place in an enam- 
eled saucepan with a quart of good white stock and simmer 
until the watercress is almost dissolved. Then thicken with a 
little flour and add a small cupful of good cream or a little 
butter and serve with sippets of toast. 

Onion Broth. 

Slice six parboiled onions and fry lightly in an ounce of 
butter with a little parsley and pepper and salt. Add them 
to a quart of white stock — chicken broth or fish stock is 
preferable — with one and a half tablespoonfuls of flour, and 
then stir in a pint of hot milk. Press the whole through a cloth 
or sieve and serve as hot as possible. Small slices of toast 
should be served with the soup. 

Onion and Cheese Soup. 

Fry four sliced onions in butter and add them to a quart 
of strong clear stock very hot. Pour this into an earthen- 
ware cooking pot and float on the surface some small rounds of 
toast, each thickly sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese. 
Serve in the cooking pot as hot as possible. 

In Italy this soup is usually served in small bowls instead 
of in soup plates. 

Leek Soup. 

Cut off the green tops from a large bunch of leeks and slice 
the rest. Fry in two ounces of butter, and add a pint of 



STANDARD COOKERY. 17 

white stock and a pint of hot milk, with which two ounces of 
flour have been mixed carefully. Season with pepper and salt 
and a little parsley. After cooking for three-quarters of an 
hour stir in the yolk of an Ggg, and serve with very small 
triangles of toast. 

Jackson Soup. 

Slice six parboiled potatoes and fry them lightly in two 
ounces of butter. Add two ounces of minced ham, a sliced 
onion, half-a-dozen hearts of celery, and a little parsley, nut- 
meg, pepper, and salt, with just sufficient stock to well moisten. 
After simmering for three-quarters of an hour pass the whole 
through a sieve into a pint of white stock to which has been 
added the same quantity of boiling milk with two ounces of 
butter and the yolk of an egg. After stirring thoroughly 
add a few tiny squares of toast and serve without delay. 

Piedmontese Soup. 

Slice eight large turnips into a quarter of a pound of melted 
butter, to which has been added a tablespoonful of sifted sugar. 
Fry briskly until the turnips are slightly browned, then add 
two quarts of strong stock, and let the whole simmer gently 
for three-quarters of an hour, after which strain carefully and 
add a large tablespoonful of stewed tomatoes. 

Now pound four anchovies with a clove of garlic and a little 
butter into a smooth paste. Pass through a fine sieve and add 
to the soup. 

Pour the soup into a tureen containing two dozen very small 
balls of mashed potatoes previously fried till the outsides are 
crisp, and add, if obtainable, some parboiled tarragon leaves. 

Grated Parmesan cheese should be handed round separately 
and added to the soup at discretion. 

Cabbage Soup. 
Partly boil a head of cabbage and chop finely. Next fry 
it in a little butter, mix with a tablespoonful of flour, and add 
to one quart of veal broth, flavoring with pepper and salt. 
After simmering gently for an hour pass the soup through a 
sieve, add a pint of hot milk, and serve at once. 

Celery Puree. 

Wash some celery well, and remove all the outside parts; 

cut up half-a-pound, put it on in cold salted water, bring this 

to the boil, take out the celery and drain. Put the celery into 

a pan with one-and-a-half gills of milk, half a bay leaf, a 



i8 STANDARD COOKERY. 

blade of mace, a slice of onion, and boil it all till tender, then 
rub the celery through a sieve and it is ready. 

Turnip Soup. 

Fry a quart and a half of sliced turnips with two ounces 
of butter, the same quantity of flour, and a tablespoonful of 
sugar. Add to these a pint of tomatoes with a little thyme, 
parsley, and bay leaf. After simmering for one hour, strain 
the whole through a sieve and add one cupful of hot beef soup 
and flavor with pepper, salt and grated cheese. 

Cucumber Soup. 
Peel and slice four large cucumbers, and after removing the 
seeds fry in one ounce of butter. Turn them into a quart of 
white stock to which has been added a pint of hot milk with 
a blade of mace and a little pepper and salt. Cook gently 
for one and a half hours, then thicken with flour and butter and 
pass the whole through a sieve. 

Tchi. 

This is a favorite soup in Russia, and is very easily prepared. 

Take one pound of forcemeat, make into small balls, and 
fry a golden brown. Mince the heart of a cabbage and two 
large onions and fry in butter or suet. Add the vegetables to 
three pints of stock, thicken with two ounces of flour, and 
flavor with salt, pepper, and parsley. After cooking one hour 
add the balls of forcemeat and one small glass of tarragon 
vinegar before serving. 

Pepperpot. 

Take one pint of mixed vegetables cut small — any sorts 
that you happen to have — add three quarts of water, together 
with a pound of salt pork, mutton, and tripe fried in butter. 
Flavor with one clove, one bay leaf, and a small bunch of 
parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram. Cover closely and cook 
for three hours. Let it cool thoroughly, then remove the fat, 
thicken with the yolk of an egg and a little butter and flour, 
add pepper and salt to taste and make very hot before serving. 

Potage Bortsch. 

Cut in julienne-fashion the heads of two leeks, one carrot, 
half an onion, four ounces of white cabbage leaves, previously 
blanched, half a root of parsley, the heart of a stick of celery 
and four ounces of beetroot; stew the whole gently in butter 
for ten minutes. 

Moisten with six quarts of white consomme and two or three 



STANDARD COOKERY. 19 

tablespoonfuls of the juice of grated beetroot; add a sprig of 
sweet marjoram, two pounds of moderately fat breast of beef, 
and a half of a semi-roasted duck; set to cook gently for four 
hours. 

When about to serve, cut the beef into large dice, and the 
duck into small slices. Put into the soup one quarter pint of 
beetroot juice extracted from grated beetroot pressed in linen, 
and a little blanched and chopped fennel and parsley. Now 
put in the beef and duck with twelve grilled and despumated 
chipolatas. 

A sauceboat of sour cream should be served separately. 

Consomme A rficossaise. 

Prepare a mutton broth, and at the same time cook a piece 
of breast of mutton for the garnish. 

For four quarts of broth, put into the soup-tureen, five 
tablespoonfuls of pearl-barley cooked beforehand; and the 
breast of mutton cut into regular dice of one-fifth of an inch, 
in the proportion of one tablespoonful for each person. 

Pour the boiling mutton broth over this garnish. 

Consomme Divette. 

Prepare four baba-molds of royale made from crayfish 
veloute, thirty-six small quenelles of whiting forcemeat, molded 
to the shape of pearls, and one tablespoonful of small pearls of 
truffle. 

Cut the royale into oval slices, and put these into the soup 
with the poached quenelles and the truffle pearls. 

Pour two quarts of very clear, boiling consomme over the 
garnish. 

Consomme Gauloise. 

Prepare one mold of ham royale. and poach the latter in 
a small, well-buttered Charlotte mold. When quite cold, cut 
it into large lozenges, and put these into the soup-tureen, and 
six small cocks' kidneys cut in slices. 

When about to serve, pour over this garnish one quart of 
consomme, thickened slightly with two tablespoonfuls of 
poached tapioca. 

Pot-au-feu. 

A soup which finds favor with all classes of society in 
France, rich and poor alike, as a tribute to its excellence and 
worth. It is to the French what roast beef and plum-pudding 
are to the English. No dinner in France is served without 



20 STANDARD COOKERY. 

soup, and no good soup is supposed to be made without the 
pot-au-feu. 

The following is the recipe : Put in the pot-au-feu six 
pounds of beef, four quarts of water, set near the fire, skim; 
when nearly boiling, add a spoonful and a half of salt, half 
a pound of liver, two carrots, four turnips, eight young or two 
old leeks, one head of celery, two onions and one burnt, with 
a clove in each, and a piece of parsnip, skim again, and let 
simmer four or five hours, adding a little cold water now and 
then ; take off part of the fat, put slices of bread into the tureen, 
lay half the vegetables over, and half the broth, and serve the 
meat separately with the vegetables around. 

Hodge-Podge. 

Cut two pounds of fresh scrag of mutton into small pieces, 
which put into a stewpan, with three quarts of cold water and 
a tablespoonful of salt, set it upon the fire, and when boiling, 
place it at the corner to simmer, keeping it well skimmed; let 
it simmer an hour, then add a good-sized carrot, two turnips, 
two large onions cut into small dice, and six cabbage-lettuces, 
if in season (the whole well washed), and let simmer until quite 
tender; skim off all the fat, and serve either with the meat in 
the soup or separately. If in season, a pint of green peas 
boiled in the soup is a great improvement. 

Ox-Tail Soup. 

Cut up two ox-tails, separating them at the joints, put a 
small piece of butter at the bottom of a stewpan, then put in 
the ox-tails, with a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a head of 
celery, a leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; 
add half a pint of water, and twelve grains of whole pepper, 
set over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally, until the bottom of 
the stewpan is covered with a thickish brown glaze, then add 
a quarter of a pound of flour, stir it in well, and fill up the 
stewpan with three quarts of water, add a tablespoonful of 
salt, and stir occasionally until boiling; then set it upon the 
comer of the stove, skim well, add a gill of good brown gravy, 
or a few drops of browning, and let simmer until the tails are 
stewed very tender, the flesh coming easily from the bones, 
then take them out immediately, and put them into your tureen ; 
pass the soup through a hair sieve over them, add a head of 
celery, previously cut small and boiled in a little stock, and 
serve. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 21 

Ox-Cheek Soup. 

Blanch in boiling water two ox-cheeks, cut off the beard, 
take away all the bone, which chop up, and cut the flesh into 
medium sized pieces, leaving the cheek part whole; put all 
together into a stewpan, with four quarts of water, a little 
salt, ten peppercorns, two carrots, two turnips, one leek, one 
head of celery, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; 
let it simmer for six hours, keeping it well skimmed; then 
take out the fleshy part of the cheeks, and pass the broth 
through a hair sieve into another stewpan; mix a quarter of 
a pound of flour with a pint of cold broth, which pour into it, 
and stir over the fire until boiling, when place it at the corner 
(adding two heads of celery, cut very fine, and a glass of 
sherry) ; when the celery is tender, cut the meat into small 
square pieces, keep them warm in the tureen, and when the 
soup is ready, pour over, and serve; give it a nice color with 
browning. 

Sheep's or lamb's heads also make very good soup by follow- 
ing the above recipe, and adding two pounds of veal, mutton, 
or beef to the stock; two heads would be sufficient, and they 
would not require so long to stew. 

White Mock-Turtle Soup. 

Procure half a calf's head, (scalded, not skinned), bone it, 
then cut up a knuckle of veal, which put into a stewpan, well 
buttered at the bottom, with half a pound of lean ham, an ounce 
of salt, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a head of celery, a 
leek, a bunch of parsley and a bay-leaf, add half a pint of 
water; set it upon the fire, moving it round occasionally, until 
the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze ; then 
add six quarts of water, and put in the half head, let simmer 
gently for two hours and a half, or until the head is tender, 
then take it out, and press it between two dishes, and pass the 
stock through a hair sieve into a bowl; then in another stew- 
pan have a quarter of a pound of butter, with a sprig of 
thyme, basil, marjoram and bay-leaf, let the butter get quite 
hot, then add six ounces of flour to form a roux, stir over a 
sharp fire a few minutes, keeping it quite white; stand it off 
the fire to cool, then add the stock, stir over the fire until 
boiling, then stand it at the corner, skim off all the fat, and 
pass it through a hair sieve into another stewpan; cut the head 
into pieces an inch square, but not too thick, and put them 
into the soup, which season with a little cayenne pepper; when 



22 STANDARD COOKERY. 

the pieces are hot, add a gill of cream and pour it into your 
tureen. 

The above quantity would make two tureens of soup, and will 
keep good several days, but of course half the quantity could 
be made. 

Mutton Broth. 

Any description of trimmings of mutton may be used for 
broth, but the scrag ends of the neck are usually chosen. Put 
two scrags into a stewpan (having previously jointed the 
bones), with three onions, three turnips, and one carrot; fill 
tip the stewpan with a gallon of water, and place it upon the 
fire; when boiling, set it at the corner, where let it simmer for 
three hours, keeping it well skimmed; then cut a small carrot, 
two turnips, an onion, with a little leek and celery, into small 
square pieces, which put into another stewpan, with a wine- 
glassful of pearl-barley; skim every particle of fat from the 
broth, which pour through a hair sieve over them; let the 
whole boil gently at the corner of the fire until the barley is 
tender, when it is ready to serve; the meat may be trimmed 
into neat pieces, and served with the broth, or separately with 
melted butter and parsley, or onion sauce. Half or even a 
quarter of the above quantity can be made by reducing the in- 
gredients in proportion. 

Irish Soup Made of Mutton Broth. 
This soup is made similar to the last, adding ten or twelve 
mealy potatoes cut into large dice, omitting the other vegetables, 
which being boiled to a puree thicken the broth; just before 
serving, throw in twenty heads of parsley, and at the same 
time add a few flowers of marigold, which will really give it 
a very pleasing flavor. 

Punchero. 

Take a pig's foot, half a pound of ham, three pounds of lean 
beef and the giblets of a fowl. Cut all into moderate-sized 
pieces and place in a saucepan with two handfuls of split peas. 
Add sufficient water to cover and simmer for two hours. 

Now add half a cabbage, a head of lettuce, both coarsely 
cut, a sliced carrot, and a small bunch of mixed herbs. Let 
the whole simmer for an hour, then add six small sausages and 
boil until these are cooked. 

Strain out the meat and vegetables, arrange them on a sep- 
arate dish, then thicken the soup, if necessary, and serve at 
once. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 23 

Mutton Broth. 

Take a shoulder or neck of mutton, remove the bones, slice 
the meat into two quarts of water. Add two tablespoonfuls of 
minced ham, an onion, a carrot, half a pint of split peas and 
a little parsley and any other herbs that are liked. After cook- 
ing well for three hours take away the bones and cut up the 
meat into smaller pieces. Now pass the soup through a cloth 
or sieve and replace the meat making the whole very hot be- 
fore serving. 

Liver Soup. 

Slice half a pound of liver, sprinkle well with flour, and fry 
with one ounce of butter and a thinly sliced onion. Next 
pound it thoroughly, reduce three slices of stale bread to crumbs, 
and place the whole in three pints of brown stock with a little 
pepper and salt. After boiling twenty minutes pass the whole 
through a sieve, add the beaten yolk of one egg and a little 
chopped parsley, and serve at once. 

Cod Soup. 

Take the flesh of three moderate-sized cod-fish, cut into 
rather small pieces and place in a saucepan with three quarts 
of veal or other white stock. Add a medium-sized onion, a 
bay leaf and a little parsley, thyme, and marjoram. Let the 
whole cook steadily for two hours and then press through a 
fine sieve. Add a thickening of flour and butter, flavor with 
pepper and salt to taste, and next add a glass of white wine 
and a dozen bearded oysters. 

Let the whole simmer very gently for ten minutes — or un- 
til the oysters are done — and serve hot. 

Frog Soup. 

Take a quart and a half of good white stock and add to 
it a small sliced onion, a pinch of parsley, one and a half 
ounces of flour with pepper and salt to taste. After simmering 
gently for an hour strain the soup and add to it a glass 
of dry sherry and about a dozen frogs' legs previously fried 
to a golden tint in butter. Let the whole simmer for another 
half-hour. 

Blend the yolks of two eggs thoroughly in a cup of hot 
milk with a little butter, and add to the soup, which should 
be served as hot as possible. 

Fish Soup. 

Take about two pounds of any large fresh fish and cut it 
into moderate-sized pieces. Slice finely one small onion, a 



24 STANDARD COOKERY. 

small carrot, half a stick of celery, and half a dozen button 
mushrooms. Next take a large stewpan and put into it two 
ounces of butter and three tablespoonfuls of olive oil. As soon 
as these are blended, add a sliced onion and a tablespoonful 
of chopped parsley and fry them. Next add the other veg- 
etables and the pieces of fish, being careful that they are quite 
dry. Sprinkle with pepper and salt, and fry till the fish is 
slightly browned. Now add three or four sliced tomatoes and 
about two quarts of boiling water, and let the whole simmer 
until the fish is thoroughly cooked, skimming carefully from 
time to time. 

When the soup has cooled a little, strain it, and after re- 
moving the fish bones rub both the fish and vegetables through 
a sieve and put them back into the broth. Let the whole sim- 
mer for another ten minutes before serving. 

Slice a small French roll and bake it in the oven till moder- 
ately brown. Put these slices into the tureen and pour the soup 
over them. 

Grated Parmesan cheese is usually served with this soup. 

Fish Broth. 

Save the water in which any large fish has been boiled, add 
the scraps left from the fish, and simmer the whole until it is 
reduced to a quart. After straining, add six potatoes, a car- 
rot and a leek, all sliced, some parsley, and a bay leaf. Let 
it simmer again for half an hour and then add twelve oysters, a 
tablespoonful of sherry, a pint of hot white stock, and a little 
pepper and salt. Cook gently for ten minutes more — or until 
the oysters are done — and serve as hot as possible. 

Lobster Soup. 

Fry an ounce of chopped ham, a minced onion, and a 
minced carrot with a little parsley and thyme in one ounce of 
butter. Place this in a quart and a half of white stock to- 
gether with a pint of any white wine and three pounds of 
boiled lobster chopped up small. After simmering for an hour 
strain the whole, add a sliced hard-boiled egg, a little butter, 
and two cupfuls of boiled rice. Make very hot and serve with 
sippets of toast. 

Lenten Broth. 

This is a favorite dish in many of the Austrian convents. 
Cut two pounds of any fish into pieces of moderate size 
and cook for two hours in a quart of water with a carrot. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 25 

onion, turnip, tv/o sticks of celery, and a small bunch of any 
herbs that are liked. 

Next take out the fish, and after removing the skin and bones 
replace the fish in the broth, adding a pint of boiling milk with 
which has been mixed the yolk of an egg, the juice of a small 
lemon, and a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Thicken with flour 
and butter, pass through a sieve, and serve very hot. 

Bouillabaisse. 

This is one of the famous dishes of the South of France 
and can be prepared with comparatively little trouble. 

Take three pounds of mixed fish — any kinds of fresh fish 
will do — and cut them into rather large pieces. Add a lobster 
or crayfish, also cut up, and, if liked, a couple of dozen mussels 
in their shells. Fry the whole lightly in half a pint of olive oil 
and then add two tomatoes, an onion, carrot, and a lemon, all 
sliced, together with a bay leaf, a little parsley, and as much 
saffron as will lie on a sixpence. A clove of garlic may be 
added if the flavor is not objected to. Stir the whole very 
carefully for ten minutes, adding a cupful or more of strong 
stock and a glass of white wine. Simmer for a quarter of an 
hour longer and add a few small triangles of toast. 

This may be served together, or the fish may be arranged 
on a dish, and the soup served separately. It is an improve- 
ment to serve a sauce poulette with the bouillabaisse. 

Eel Soup. 

Take two pounds of eels cut in pieces and cook them for 
twenty minutes in a pint of boiling water, to which has been 
added half a cupful of vinegar, a carrot, an onion, some parsley 
and a little pepper and salt. Then remove the eels and mix 
one-half of the eel broth with two quarts of white stock, ad- 
ding a cupful of thinly sliced boiled carrot, the same quantity 
of cooked peas, and a little thyme and marjoram. Mix thor- 
oughly, add a cupful of hot milk and the yolk of one egg, and 
pour the whole into a soup-tureen over the eels. 

In Hamburg, a dish of stewed pears is always served with 
eel soup. 

Shrimp Cream. 

Shell and chop fifty shrimps and fry them in two ounces of 
butter. Place them in two quarts of white stock, together with 
three anchovies, a sliced onion, four ounces of boiled rice, a 
piece of stale bread, and pepper and salt to taste. After cook- 



26 STANDARD COOKERY. 

ing slowly for two hours press through a sieve, add a table- 
spoonful of sherry, and serve as hot as possible. 

Oyster Soup. 

Put four dozen oysters into a stewpan with their liquor, 
place upon the fire; when upon the point of boiling, drain 
them upon a sieve catching the liquor in a bowl ; take off the 
beards, which put into the liquor, and the oysters into a soup- 
tureen; then put a quarter of a pound of butter into another 
stewpan over the fire, and when melted add six ounces of 
flour, stir over a slow fire for a short time, but keeping it 
quite white ; let it cool, then add the liquor and beards of the 
oysters, a quart of milk, and two quarts of stock, stir over the 
fire until boiling, then season with a teaspoonful of salt, half a 
saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, five peppercorns, half a blade 
of mace, a tablespoonful of Harvey sauce, half ditto of essence 
of anchovies ; let boil quickly for ten minutes, skim it well, 
add a gill of cream, if handy, strain through a hair sieve over 
the oysters and serve. 

The Fisherman's Soup. 
Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, and 
when melted add six ounces of flour, stir well together over a 
slow fire a few minutes ; when cool, add one quart of milk, 
and two quarts of stock; stir over a fire until boiling; having 
previously filleted two soles, add the bones and trimmings to 
the soup, with four cloves, one blade of mace, two bayleaves, 
one spoonful of essence of anchovies, one ditto of Harvey 
sauce, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, a little sugar and salt 
if required; let the whole boil quickly for ten minutes, keep- 
ing it well skimmed, cut each fillet of sole into six pieces, put 
them into another stewpan, with half a handful of picked 
parsley, pass the soup through a hair sieve over the fillets, 
boil again ten minutes, add a gill of cream and it is ready to 
serve. 

Game Soup. 
Take any odds and ends of game, rabbit, or poultry, with a 
calf's foot cut small, two ounces of chopped ham, two car- 
rots, one onion, a little mace, and herbs to taste, and cook the 
whole gently for three hours in two quarts of water. After 
straining, clarify the soup with white of egg. Add a glass of 
sherry, a sliced lemon, a sliced hard-boiled egg, and pepper 
and salt to taste. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 27 

Consomme Castellane. 

Prepare a quart of game consomme, flavored with a fumet 
of woodcock; two baba-molds of royale, two-thirds of which 
consist of a puree of woodcock and one-third of lentils, with 
the half of the yolk of a hard-boiled egg chopped and thick- 
ened. 

Cut into slices of one-inch in length and a half-inch in thick- 
ness. Put into the tureen, together with one tablespoonful of 
a julienne of roast woodcock fillets, then pour over the boiling 
game consomme. 

Hare Soup. 

Put half a pound of butter into a stewpan, and, when melted, 
add three quarters of a pound of flour, and half a pound of 
streaked bacon, cut into very small pieces ; keep stirring over 
the fire until becoming lightly browned. You have previously 
cut up a hare into neat smallish pieces; put them into a stew- 
pan, and keep stirring round over the fire until they are set; 
then fill it up with five quarts of water; add two onions, a 
head of celery, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, a 
blade of mace, and four cloves ; when boiling, season with 
one ounce of salt and a little pepper, and let it simmer until 
the pieces of hare are done, which would be in about an hour 
if a young hare, but double that time if a very old one; the 
better plan is to try a piece occasionally. When done, take 
out the best pieces, and the meat of the inferior ones pound 
in a mortar, remove the bones, put it back in the soup, and 
pass all through a sieve, and put it again into a stewpan, boil 
for ten minutes, and serve. The above quantity would be suffi- 
cient for two tureens. A glass of wine may be added. Rab- 
bit, pheasant, grouse, partridge, and other game soups, may be 
made in the same way. 

Rabbit Soup. 
Take the bones and odds and ends of a good rabbit — or 
two if there is not much meat left — and fry them in one ounce 
of butter with a sliced carrot and turnip, three minced onions, 
two cloves, and spices to taste. Add the whole to a quart of 
beef stock and simmer for two hours, after which strain out the 
bones and pass the rest through a sieve. Just before serving 
add a tablespoonful of port wine and a dozen forcemeat balls 
previously poached in stock. 

Consomme Diplomate. 
Roll into small sausage-form six ounces of chicken force- 



28 STANDARD COOKERY. 

meat, finished with crayfish butter. Poach the sausages, cut 
them into thin roundels, and put them into the soup-tureen, 
with one dessertspoonful of black truffle, cut in julienne. 

Pour over this garnish two quarts of boiling consomme, 
thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca. 

Consomme Florentine. 

Make twenty-four small quenelles of chicken forcemeat. To 
the forcemeat of half of these quenelles add some very finely 
chopped tongue, and to the remaining add some very reduced 
spinach puree. 

Poach the quenelles ; put them in the soup-tureen with two 
tablespoonfuls of very green, cooked peas. 

Pour one quart of very clear, boiling consomme over this 
garnish, and add a pinch of chervil pluches. 

Jacqueline Soup. 
Beat up the yolks of three eggs in a cupful of milk and 
blend with it an ounce of flour over the fire; but be careful 
that it does not become too thick. Next add about a quart 
and a half of boiling hot chicken broth and flavor with pepper 
and salt and a little minced parsley. After stirring well, strain 
the whole, and just before serving add a tablespoonful each of 
boiled rice, cooked green peas, sliced carrots, and chopped 
asparagus. 

Pigeon Broth. 

Remove the meat from four freshly roasted pigeons and 
put the bones and gravy with a quart of stock to simmer by the 
fire. Mince the meat of the pigeons with a medium-sized onion 
and blend thoroughly with an ounce of butter and one pound 
of breadcrumbs well moistened with milk. Add this to the 
stock and let the whole cook gently for an hour. 

Press the whole through a sieve, add pepper and salt to 
taste, and a tablespoonful of either port or sherry. Slices of 
toasted bread should be served with this soup. 

Duck Soup. 

Take two cupfuls of the remains of cold roast duck and 
mince with an ounce of parsley, a bay leaf, and a little thyme. 
Fry these in an ounce of butter and then add a quart of beef 
stock thickened with an ounce of flour, and stir in half a pint 
of white wine. Cider may be substituted if not too sharp. 

Simmer the soup for an hour and then rub the whole through 
a sieve. Next add a sliced green pepper fried in butter, a 



STANDARD COOKERY. 29 

cupful of boiled barley, a few pieces of duck meat, and pepper 
and salt to taste. Make the whole very hot before serving. 

Pigeon Soup. 

Thoroughly mix an ounce of butter with six ounces of flour, 
add one ounce of chopped ham and place in two quarts of clear 
soup together with three pigeons previously cut up and fried 
in butter. Flavor with thyme, parsley, celery, one leek, and a 
bay leaf. After cooking for one hour strain the soup, cut the 
meat into small dice, and replace. Add a cupful of cooked 
green peas, the same quantity of cooked and sliced carrots, a 
glass of white wine and a little pepper and salt. 

Pectoral Broth. 

This is a convent soup greatly in repute with invalid nuns. 

Cut an old fowl into joints and put them, together with the 
heart, gizzard, and liver, into two quarts of water, to which 
add two cups of barley, three onions, a carrot, a small bunch 
of thyme, parsley, and marjoram, and — if obtainable — a 
small handful of marshmallow root. Let the whole simmer 
gently for three hours, after which strain the broth and press 
the barley through a sieve. Add pepper and salt to taste, the 
yolk of one egg, and a tablespoonful of brandy. The whole 
should be reduced to about a quart, and will be found very 
nourishing. 

Lentil Soup. 

Take half a pint of French beans, two onions, two turnips, 
two carrots, and a leek, all sliced, with a cupful of spinach, a 
little celery, and some parsley, and fry the whole with two 
ounces of butter. Add the vegetables to three pints of milk, 
with which an ounce of flour has been mixed, a pint of stewed 
tomatoes, a blade of mace, and a pinch of baking soda. After 
simmering for two hours pass the whole through a sieve, add 
a little butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls 
of cooked rice. Serve very hot. 

Lentil Soup. (Another Method.) 

Cut three onions, a turnip, and the half of a carrot into 
very thin slices, which put into a stewpan, with a quarter of 
a pound of butter, a few sprigs of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 
and two bay-leaves, add also two pounds of leg of beef, cut 
into small dice; set the stewpan upon the fire, stirring with a 
wooden spoon, until its contents are fried rather brown, when 
add one quart of lentils, and three quarts of water; let the 



30 STANDARD COOKERY. 

whole simmer until the lentils are very tender, when season 
with nearly an ounce of salt, and half that quantity of sugar; 
it is then ready to serve. 

To make a puree of lentils : — When the soup is made, strain 
off the broth, add a good spoonful of flour to the lentils, which 
mash with a wooden spoon against the side of the stewpan ; 
then again put in the broth, boil all up together, keeping it 
stirred with a spoon ; rub it through a hair sieve, again 
boil and skim, and it is ready; serve with a few croiitons 
of bread, as directed for Palestine Soup. 

Haricot Soup. 

Boil until tender one pound of haricot beans, and then add 
one finely shredded cabbage, a slice of fat bacon, a red chili, 
and a little salt. Let the whole boil steadily for an hour, then 
add an onion sliced and fried in butter, with just a suspicion 
of garlic. The soup should be stirred frequently while cook- 
ing. 

Neapolitan Soup. 

Bring three pints of strong stock to the boil, and stir in two 
ounces of semolina and a little pepper and salt, letting the 
whole simmer for a quarter of an hour. Now beat the yolks 
of four eggs with a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan cheese 
and three teaspoon fuls of lemon juice. Add these to the soup 
and stir over the fire till the whole is blended; but be very 
careful that it does not boil, or the eggs will curdle. 

If a little cream is added, just before serving, the soup will 
be improved. 

Macaroni Soup. 
Place ten ounces of macaroni, with two ounces of butter 
and a little pepper and salt, in two quarts of boiling water, 
and boil for half-an-hour. After draining the macaroni cut 
it into half-inch lengths, and boil for ten minutes more in two 
quarts of chicken broth. Let it cool a little and then add care- 
fully half a pint of cream, the beaten yolks of six eggs, and 
two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese. Stir over the fire for 
three minutes longer and then serve. 

Barley Soup. 

Cook together two ounces of barley, two carrots, and two 
onions sliced, with a little parsley and any other herbs that 
are liked, in two quarts of white stock for three hours. Now 



STANDARD COOKERY. 31 

stir in carefully the yolks of two eggs and a cupful of hot 
milk, and press the whole through a sieve. 

Before serving add a cupful of cooked green peas and a 
little pepper and salt. 

Consomme Brunoise. 

Cut into small dice the red part only of two carrots, one 
small turnip, the heads of two leeks, a small stick of celery 
and a third of an onion of medium size. Season the vegetables 
moderately with salt and a pinch of sugar and stew them in 
butter for thirty minutes slowly. Then moisten with half a 
pint of consomme, and finish cooking gently. 

Five minutes before serving put in one quart of boiling or- 
dinary consomme, and a tablespoonful of very green peas. 
Then pour into the soup-tureen, adding a pinch of fine chervil 
pluches. 

Consomme Rachel. 

Prepare one quart of consomme, and thicken it with three 
tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through muslin. 
With a round cutter, stamp out a few roundels of crumbs of 
bread the size of pennies and one-half inch thick. Poach in 
consomme as many slices of very fresh beef-marrow as there 
are roundels of bread. 

Six minutes before serving, fry the roundels of bread in 
clarified butter, hollow out their centers, and place on each a 
slice of poached beef-marrow suitably trimmed. 

Put three tablespoonfuls of a julienne into the soup-tureen, 
pour thereon the thickened consomme. Serve separately the 
roundels of bread garnished with marrow. 

Consomme Aux Diablotins. 

Cut a French roll into twelve slices one-quarter inch thick. 
Reduce about one-quarter pint of Bechamel * to a thick con- 
sistence; add two heaped tablespoonfuls of grated Gruyere 
cheese, and season with a little cayenne. 

Garnish the slices of soup " flute " with this preparation, 
arranged upon a tray, and set it to glaze a few minutes before 
serving. 

Pour one quart of consomme into the soup-tureen and add 
the diablotins. 

Vermicelli Soup. 
Put a quart of clear stock into a stewpan upon the fire, and 

• See page 38. 



32 STANDARD COOKERY. 

when boiling, add two ounces of vermicelli ; boil gently ten 
minutes, and it is ready to serve. 

Italian Paste Soup. 
Procure some small Italian paste, in stars, rings, or any 
otHer shape, but small; put on a quart of stock, and when boil- 
ing, add two ounces of the paste ; boil twenty minutes, or rather 
more, when it is ready to serve. 

Semolina Soup. 
Take one quart of stock, and when boiling add two table- 
spoonfuls of semolina ; boil twenty minutes, and it is then done. 
Proceed the same also with tapioca and sago. 

Macaroni Soup. 
Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni in a quart of water 
for ten minutes, then strain it off, and throw it into two quarts 
of boiling stock; let simmer gently for half an hour, when 
serve with grated cheese, separately. 

Rice Soup. 

Wash well two ounces of the best Patna rice, strain off the 
water, put the rice into a stewpan, with a quart of cold stock, 
place it upon the fire, and let simmer about half an hour, until 
the rice is very tender, but not in pulp. 

Chestnut Soup. 

Boil about a quart of large chestnuts for twenty minutes in 
salted water, then peel them and chop fine. Place them in a 
saucepan with a quart of water, the thinly pared rind of a 
lemon and a tablespoonful each of sugar and salt. Cook gently 
for half an hour and then rub the whole through a fine sieve. 

Now put the soup back in the saucepan with two quarts of 
good white stock, and add a tablespoonful each of chopped pars- 
ley and pepper to taste. Simmer very gently for twenty minutes, 
stirring the soup constantly, and then pass it again through 
a sieve. 

Sippets of dry toast should be served with this soup. 

Chestnut Soup. (Another Method.) 

Throw about fifty chestnuts into boiling water for a few 
minutes and then peel carefully. Put them in a saucepan with 
just sufficient veal or other stock to cover them, add two table- 
spoonfuls of breadcrumbs, pepper, salt, and nutmeg to taste, 
and cook for two hours. Now add hot milk in the proportion 
of a pint to each quart of the soup. Press the whole through 



STANDARD COOKERY. 33 

a sieve, stir in a tablespoonful of sherry and the yolk o£ an 
egg, and serve hot with croutons of toasted or fried bread. 

Chlodnik. 
Boil a quantity of rhubarb in water without sugar so as to 
make a strong and very sour liquor. To one quart of the 
hot liquor add four cooked beetroots cut in thick slices, two 
small pickled cucumbers cut into dice, the meat of two small 
or one moderately large crab minced finely and three hard- 
boiled eggs cut in slices. Simmer the whole gently for half 
an hour, then let it cool, and beat into it a pint of good sour 
cream, after which rub the whole through a sieve and set it 
upon the ice and serve cold. 

Pumpkin Soup. 

For this is needed a large ripe pumpkin weighing about a 
pound and a half; but an excellent substitute can be made 
with a thoroughly ripe vegetable marrow, which should be of 
a deep golden color. 

Peel and cut it into thick slices, carefully removing the seeds, 
and place in a stewpan, adding sufficient water to cover. 
Sprinkle with a little salt and let it boil gently for five minutes, 
after which pour away the water and pass the pumpkin through 
a sieve. Next add the pulp to two ounces of butter, pre- 
viously melted in a stewpan, and stir for a few minutes be- 
fore adding a pint of clear stock, boiling hot. 

Now soak a quarter of a pound of stale bread-crumbs in 
a pint of milk, add a small sliced onion and a gill of water, 
bring the whole to boiling point and add it to the soup, which 
should now be allowed to simmer gently for twenty minutes. 
It will be necessary to stir it from time to time, and to remove 
any scum that may appear. A couple of bay leaves will im- 
prove the flavor. 

After twenty minutes, strain the soup through a colander, add 
a pinch of sugar and a little pepper and salt, and let it boil 
gently for a few minutes longer. Now place in a soup-tureen 
the yolks of two eggs beaten moderately with a little milk, and 
into this pour the soup, stirring all the while. 

Sippets of fried bread should be served with it. 

Blackberry Soup. 

Melt two ounces of butter in an enameled saucepan with a 
tablespoonful of flour, and stir until the mixture becomes 
slightly browned. Now pour in slowly two pints of water and 



34 STANDARD COOKERY. 

add one and a half pounds of carefully picked blackberries with 
four cloves. Simmer gently for half an hour, and then pass 
the whole through a fine sieve in order to remove the seeds 
from the blackberries. Now add a generous glass of port and 
a few fine blackberries. Heat the soup again till the black- 
berries are cooked, which will only take a few minutes, and 
then serve in a soup-tureen. 

Fruit soups of this character are very popular in Germany, 
and care should be taken not to make them at all too sweet. 
If necessary, a little lemon juice can be added at the table, as 
most people prefer these soups a little sharp. 

Lemon Soup. 

This very attractive soup is made from a very old recipe, 
and has only to be tried to be appreciated. 

Chop together a little cold chicken with some bread crumbs 
and herbs and make it into forcemeat balls with the yolk of 
an egg. Poach these in a quart and a half of chicken broth. 
Take them out and thicken the soup with half a cupful of 
cream or milk beaten up with three eggs, the juice of a lemon, 
a little nutmeg, and pepper and salt. Replace the forcemeat 
balls and serve with sippets of toast. 

Consomme Colombine. 

Prepare a good tablespoonful of carrot pearls and one of 
turnip pearls, keeping the latter very white. Cook them in the 
ordinary way, and put them in (the soup-tureen with one table- 
spoonful of very green peas, one tablespoonful of a julienne of 
roast pigeon fillets, and six poached pigeons' eggs, which latter 
should be sent to the table in a timbale at the same time as the 
consomme. 

Pour over the other garnish one quart of very clear boiling 
chicken consomme and serve at once. 

This soup can only appear on menus when pigeon's eggs 
are in season. 

Cheese Soup. 

Fry a quarter of a pound of minced ham and six sliced 
onions in two ounces of butter. Mix with half a pound of 
bread crumbs and mix the whole in three pints of chicken 
broth or other white stock, flavoring with mace, pepper and 
salt. After cooking for half an hour stir in the yolks of two 
eggs and a quarter of a pound of good Parmesan cheese. Press 
through a sieve and serve as hot as possible. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 35 

Egg Soup. 
Take six slices of stale bread and sprinkle them on both 
sides with sugar before placing them in the oven to brown. 
Mix the yolks of three eggs and one ounce of butter with a 
pint of boiling milk, and add it to a pint of white stock flavored 
with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. Pour the 
whole over the slices of toast, and keep it hot for ten minutes 
before serving. 



36 STANDARD COOKERY. 



SAUCES. 

The Roux. 

Three kinds of roux are used — brown roux, for brown 
sauces; pale roux, for veloutes, or cream sauces; and white 
roux for white sauces and Bechamel. 

Brown Roux. 

Quantities for making about One Pound. — Eight ounces 
of clarified butter, nine ounces of best quality flour. 

Preparation. — Mix the flour and butter in a very thick 
stewpan, and put it on the side of the fire or in a moderate 
oven. Stir the mixture repeatedly so that the heat may be 
evenly distributed throughout the whole. 

The time allowed for the cooking of brown roux cannot be 
precisely determined, as it depends upon the degree of heat 
employed. The more intense the latter, the speedier will be the 
cooking, while the stirring will of necessity be more rapid. 
Brown roux is known to be cooked when it has acquired a 
fine, light brown color, and when it exudes a scent resembling 
that of the hazel-nut, characteristic of baked flour. 

Pale Roux. 

The quantities are the same as for brown roux, but cooking 
must cease as soon as the color of the roux begins to change, 
and before the appearance of any coloring whatsoever. 

The observations made relative to brown roux, concerning 
the coloring element, apply also to pale roux. 

White Roux. 

Use the same quantities as for brown and pale roux, but 
limit the time of cooking to a few minutes, as it is only neces- 
sary to do away with the disagreeable taste of raw flour which 
is typical of those sauces whose roux has not been suffi- 
ciently cooked. 

Brown Sauce or Espagnole. 
To MAKE Four Quarts. — Take one pound of brown roux 
dissolved in a tall, thick saucepan with six quarts of brown 



STANDARD COOKERY. 37 

stock. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir the sauce with 
a spatula or a whisk until it begins to boil. Then remove the 
spatula, and put the saucepan on a corner of the fire, letting 
it lean slightly to one side with the help of a wedge, so that 
boiling may only take place at one point, and the scum be easily 
removed as it collects. 

During despumation change saucepans twice or even three 
times, straining every time, and adding a quart of brown stock 
to replace what has evaporated. At length, when the sauce 
begins to get lighter, and about two hours before finally strain- 
ing it, add two pounds of fresh tomatoes, roughly cut up, or an 
equivalent quantity of preserved tomatoes, and about one pound 
of Mirepoix. The sauce is then reduced so as to measure four 
quarts when strained, after which it is poured into a wide 
tureen, and must be kept in motion until quite cool lest a skin 
should form on its surface. Remember: — 

1. Only to use strong, clear stock with a decided taste, 
and 

2. Be very careful of the roux, however it may be made. 
By following these two rules, a clear, brilliant, and consistent 
Espagnole will always be obtained in a fairly short time. 

Half Glaze. 

This is the Espagnole sauce, having reached the limit of 
perfection by final despumation. It is obtained by reducing 
one quart of Espagnole and one quart of first-class brown stock 
until its volume is reduced to nine-tenths of a quart, it is then 
put through a strainer into a bain-marie of convenient dimen- 
sions, and it is finished, away from the fire, with one-tenth of a 
quart of excellent sherry. Cover the bain-marie, or slightly 
butter the top to avoid the formation of a skin. This sauce 
is the base of all the smaller brown sauces. 

Veloute Sauce. 

Quantities Required for Four Quarts. — One pound of 
pale roux, five quarts of white veal stock. 

Dissolve the roux in the cold veal stock and put the sauce- 
pan containing this mixture on the fire, stirring the sauce with 
a spatula or whisk, so as to avoid its burning at the bottom. 
Add one ounce of table-salt, a pinch of nutmeg and white 
powdered pepper, together with quarter pound of white mush- 
room parings, if available. Now boil and move to a corner of 
the fire to despumate slowly for one and a half hours, at the 
same time observing the precautions advised for ordinary Es- 



38 STANDARD COOKERY. 

pagnole. Strain through muslin into a smaller saucepan, add 
one pint of white stock, and despumate for another half hour. 
Strain it again through a sieve into a wide tureen, and keep 
moving it with a spatula until it is quite cold. 

Veloute de Volaille. 

This is identical with ordinary veloute, except that instead 
of having white veal stock for its liquor, it is diluted with white 
poultry stock. The mode of procedure and the time allowed 
for cooking are the same. 

Fish Veloute. 

Veloute is the base of various fish sauces. 

Prepare it in precisely the same way as poultry veloute, but 
instead of using poultry stock, use very clear fish fumet, and 
let it despumate for twenty minutes only. 

To Make one Quart. — Procure the yolks of five eggs, one 
pint of cold white stock, one quart of veloute, well despumated, 
half the juice of a lemon, quarter pint of mushroom liquor. 

Put the various ingredients in a thick-bottomed saucepan and 
mix carefully. Put the pan on open fire, and stir the sauce 
with a metal spatula to prevent burning. When the sauce has 
been reduced to about one quart, add one-third pint of fresh 
cream and reduce further for a few minutes. Then pass 
through a fine strainer into a tureen and keep moving until 
quite cold. 

Bechamel Sauce. 

To Make Four Quarts. — Procure one pound of white roux, 
four and a half quarts of boiling milk, half pound of lean veal, 
two-thirds of an ounce of salt, one pinch of mignonette, and 
grated nutmeg, and one small sprig of thyme; one minced 
onion. 

Pour the boiling milk on the roux, which should be almost 
cold, and whisk it well to avoid lumps. Let it boil, then cook 
at the side of the fire. Cut the lean veal into small cubes, and 
fry with butter in a saucepan, together with the minced onion. 
When the veal has stififened, without becoming colored, it 
should be added to the Bechamel, together with salt and other 
seasonings. Let the sauce stew for about one hour in all, and 
then pass through a sieve into a tureen; butter the top, lest a 
crust should form. 

When Bechamel is intended for Lenten preparations omit the 
veal. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 39 

Tomato Sauce. 

To Make Four Quarts. — Take five ounces of fat salted 
breast of pork, six ounces of carrots cut into cubes, six ounces 
of onions cut into cubes, one bouquet garni, five ounces of flour, 
two ounces of butter, half ounce of salt, one ounce of sugar, 
a pinch of pepper; ten pounds of raw tomatoes or four quarts 
of same mashed ; tw^o quarts of white stock. 

Fry the pork together with the butter in a tall, thick-bottomed 
saucepan. When the pork is nearly melted, add the carrots, 
onions, and aromatics. Cook and stir the vegetables, then add 
the flour, which should cook until it begins to brown. Now put 
in the tomatoes and white stock, mix well, and set to boil on 
an open fire. Now add the seasoning and a crushed clove of 
garlic, cover the saucepan, and allow to simmer for one and 
one-half hours. At the end of this time pass the sauce through 
a sieve and bring to boil, continually stirring. Finally, pour 
it into a tureen, and butter its surface to avoid the formation 
of a skin. 

Sauce Hollandaise. 

To Make One Quart. — Procure one and one-half pounds of 
butter, and yolks of six eggs, one pinch of mignonette pepper 
and one-quarter ounce of salt, three tablespoonfuls of good 
vinegar. 

Put the salt, the mignonette, the vinegar, and three table- 
spoonfuls of water in a small saucepan, and reduce by three- 
quarters on the fire. Move the saucepan to side of the fire and 
add a spoonful of fresh water and the yolks of eggs. Work 
the whole with a whisk until the yolks thicken and have the 
consistence of cream. Then remove the saucepan to a tepid 
place and gradually pour the butter on the yolks stirring briskly 
the while. When the butter is absorbed, the sauce should be 
thick and firm. It is brought to the correct consistence with 
a little water, which also lightens it slightly, but the addition 
of water is optional. The sauce is completed by a drop of 
lemon juice, and it is then rubbed through a sieve. 

Sauce Bordelaise. 
Put into a vegetable-pan two ounces of very finely minced 
shallots, one-half pint of good red wine, a pinch of mignonette 
pepper, and bits of thyme and bay. Reduce the wine by three- 
quarters, and add one-half pint of half-glaze. Keep the sauce 
simmering for half an hour; remove the scum from time to 
time, and strain it through linen or a sieve. When dishing it 



40 STANDARD COOKERY. 

up, finish it with two tablespoon fuls of dissolved meat glaze, 
a few drops of lemon juice, and four ounces of beef-marrow, 
cut into slices or cubes and poached in slightly salted boiling 
water. Butter may be added to the extent of about three 
ounces per pint, which makes it smoother, but less clear. It 
is especially suitable for grilled butcher's meat. 

Chasseur Sauce. 

Peel and mince six medium-sized mushrooms. Heat one- 
half ounce of butter and as much olive oil in a vegetable-pan; 
put in the mushrooms, and fry until they are slightly browned. 
Now add a teaspoonful of minced shallots, and remove half the 
butter; pour one-half pint of white wine and one glass of 
liquor brandy into the stewpan ; reduce this liquid to half, and 
finish the sauce with one half-pint of half-glaze, one-quarter 
pint of tomato sauce, and one tablespdonful of meat-glaze. Set 
to boil for five minutes more, and complete with a teaspoonful 
of chopped parsley. 

Brown Chaud-Froid Sauce. 

Put into a saucepan one quart of half-glaze and one-fifth 
pint of truffle essence. Put the pan on an open fire, and re- 
duce its contents; while making same absorb one and one-hali 
pints of jelly — the latter being added to the sauce in small 
quantities. Reduce the sauce by one-third and after the re- 
duction, carefully taste, and rectify the seasoning if necessary; 
mix a little Madeira or port with the sauce, away from the 
fire, and strain through muslin or through a venetian-hair 
sieve. Stir the sauce now and then while it cools, until it is 
sufficiently liquid, and at the same time consistent enough to 
coat immersed solids evenly with a film of sauce. 

Varieties of the Chaud-Froid Sauce. 

For Ducks. — Prepare the sauce as directed above, adding to 
it (for the prescribed quantity) one-half pint of duck fumet 
obtained from the carcases and remains of roast duckling, and 
finish it, away from the fire, with the juice of four oranges 
and a heaped tablespoonful of orange rind, cut finely, julienne- 
fashion, and scalded for five minutes. 

For Feathered Game. — Prepare the sauce as directed, add- 
ing one-half pint of the fumet of the game in order to lend 
it that game's characteristic taste. Observe the same precau- 
tion for the cooling. 

For Fish. — Proceed as before but substitute the Espagnole 
of fish for the half-glaze; intensify the first Espagnole with 




1 f- <• 



STANDARD COOKERY. 41 

one-half pint of very clear fish essence; and use Lenten jelly- 
instead of meat jelly. 

Deviled Sauce. 
Put in a vegetable-pan two ounces of sliced shallots and 
one-third pint of white wine. Reduce the latter to two-thirds, 
season strongly with cayenne pepper, and strain through muslin. 
This sauce may be served with grilled fowls or pigeons. It 
also forms an excellent accompaniment to re-dished meat. 

Grand- Veneur Sauce. 

Take one pint of Poivrade Sauce (see p. 42) and boil it, 
adding one pint of game stock; reduce the sauce by a third; 
remove it from the fire, and add four tablespoonfuls of red- 
currant jelly. When the latter is well dissolved, complete the 
sauce by addition of one-quarter pint of cream per pint of 
sauce. 

This sauce is served with venison. 
Italian Sauce. 

Put into a stewpan six tablespoonfuls of Duxelles, two ounces 
of very lean, cooked ham, cut very finely, brunoise-fashion, 
and one pint of half-glaze tomatee. Boil for ten minutes, and 
complete at the moment of dishing up, with one teaspoonful 
of parsley, chervil, and tarragon, minced and mixed. 

Lenten Italian Sauce. — Prepare as above but omit the 
ham, and substitute Lent Espagnole (combined with fish fumet 
made from the fish for which the sauce is intended) for half- 
glaze with tomatoes. 

Thickened Gravy. 

Boil one pint of poultry or veal stock (according to the 
nature of the dish the gravy is intended for). Thicken by 
means of three-quarters ounce of fecule, diluted cold, with a 
little water or gravy, and pour this into the boiling gravy, 
being careful to stir briskly. 

Veal Gravy Tomate. 

Add to one pint of veal stock two ounces of puree and one- 
quarter pint of tomato juice, and reduce by a fifth. Strain the 
gravy through linen. This gravy is served with meat. 

Lyonnaise Sauce. 

Finely mince two ounces of onions and brown them slightly 

in two ounces of butter. Moisten with one-quarter pint of 

white wine and the same quantity of vinegar; almost entirely 

reduce the liquid; add one and one-half pints of clear half-glaze. 



42 STANDARD COOKERY. 

and set to cook slowly for half-an-hour. Rub the sauce 
through a sieve. 

The onion may be left in the sauce or not, according to 
taste. 

Madeira Sauce. 
Put one and a half pints of half-glaze into a saucepan and 
reduce on a brisk fire to a stiff consistence. Take it off the 
fire and add one-fifth pint of Madeira to it, bringing it back 
to its normal consistence. Rub through a sieve, and keep warm 
without allowing it to boil. 

Marrow Sauce. 
Follow the proportions as given for " Sauce Bordelaise," the 
Marrow Sauce being only a variety of Bordelaise. Finish it 
with six ounces per quart of beef marrow, cut into cubes, 
poached and well drained, and one teaspoonful of chopped 
parsley, blanched. If the sauce is to accompany vegetables 
finish it, away from the fire, with three ounces of butter, and 
then add the cubes of marrow and the parsley. 

Pignons Sauce. 

Take the necessary amount of Poivrade Sauce (see p. 43) 
and let it boil. To make one pint of sauce, prepare an in- 
fusion of juniper berries, with a gill of water and two ounces 
of concassed berries ; one ounce of grilled fir-apple kernels, and 
one ounce of raisins, stoned, washed, and left to soak in tepid 
water for an hour. Finish the sauce, when dishing up, by add- 
ing the infusion of juniper berries strained through linen, the ^ 
grilled kernels, the soaked raisins, and half a gill of Madeira 
wine. 

This sauce is served with joints of venison. 

Perizueux Sauce. 
Prepare a Madeira Sauce as above, and add to the half-glaze, 
to be reduced, half its volume of very strong veal stock, and 
keep it a little thicker than usual. Finish this sauce by adding 
one-sixth of a pint of truffle essence and three ounces of 
chopped truffles per quart of Madeira Sauce. It may be served 
with small entrees, timbales, etc., etc. 

Sauce Piquante. 

Put into a stewpan two ounces of minced shallots, a gill each 
of vinegar and white wine. Reduce the liquid by half, and 
add one pint of half-glaze; set the sauce to boil, and remove 
scum for half an hour. Finish it, away from the fire, with two 



STANDARD COOKERY. 43 

ounces of gherkins, one ounce of capers, and a teaspoonful of 
chervil, parsley, and tarragon, mixed; all the ingredients to be 
finely chopped. This may be served with grilled or boiled 
pork, and cold meat re-dished and minced. 

Poivrade Sauce. 

Heat two ounces of butter in a stewpan and insert one 
pound of raw Mirepoix. Fry the vegetables until they are well 
browned ; moisten with one-quarter pint of vinegar and one-half 
pint of Marinade, reduce to two-thirds; add one pint of Espag- 
nole Sauce, and cook for three-quarters of an hour. Ten 
minutes before straining the sauce, but not before, put in a 
few crushed peppercorns. 

Pass the sauce through a strainer, pressing the aromatics; 
add a further one-half pint of Marinade, and remove scum for 
quarter of an hour, simmering the while. Strain again through 
a sieve and finish the sauce, when ready for serving, with two 
ounces of butter. 

This sauce is suitable for joints marinaded or otherwise. 

Poivrade Sauce for Vension. 

Fry, with two ounces of butter and two ounces of oil, one 
pound of raw Mirepoix to which are added four pounds of 
well-broken bones and ground-game trimmings. When the 
whole is well browned, drain the grease away, and dilute with 
one pint each of vinegar and white wine. Reduce this liquid 
by three-quarters, then add three quarts of game stock and a 
quart of Espagnole Sauce. Boil, cover the saucepan, and put 
at side of fire for three hours. At the end of this time pour 
into a fine sieve placed over a tureen ; press the remains so 
as to expel all the sauce they hold, and pour the sauce into a 
tall, thick saucepan. Add enough game stock and Marinade, 
mixed in equal parts to produce three quarts in all of sauce, 
and gently reduce the latter while removing scum. As it 
diminishes in volume, it should be passed through muslin into 
smaller saucepans, and the reduction should be stopped when 
only a quart of sauce remains. 

Provengale Sauce. 

Peel, remove the seeds, and squeeze twelve medium tomatoes. 
Heat in a saucepan one-fifth pint of oil, until it begins to smoke 
a little; insert the tomatoes seasoned with pepper and salt; add 
a crushed garlic clove, a pinch of powdered sugar, one tea- 
spoonful of chopped parsley, and allow to melt gently for half 
an hour. 



44 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Rouennaise Sauce. 
Prepare a " Bordelaise " Sauce as previously described. The 
diluent of this sauce must be an excellent red wine. For one 
pint of sauce, pass four raw duck's livers through a sieve; 
add the resulting puree to the Bordelaise and heat the latter 
for a few minutes in order to poach the liver. Be careful, 
however, not to heat the sauce too much or too long, lest 
the liver be cooked. Serve this sauce with duckling d la 
Rouennaise. 

Torture Sauce. 

Boil one-half pint of veal stock, adding a small sprig each 
of sage, sweet marjoram, rosemary, basil, thyme, and bay, two 
ounces of mushroom parings, and one ounce of parsley. Cover 
and infuse for half an hour. Two minutes before straining 
the infusion, add four crushed peppercorns. 

After straining through fine linen, add one-half pint each of 
half-glaze and tomato sauce with four tablespoonfuls of sherry, 
a little truffle, essence, and a good pinch of cayenne. 

Venison Sauce. 

Prepare a Poivrade Sauce for game, as previously described. 
Finish this sauce with two tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly, 
previously dissolved, and mixed with five tablespoonfuls of 
fresh cream per pint of sauce. The addition of cream and 
red-currants must be made away from the fire. 

Bearnaise Sauce. 

Put into a small stewpan one teaspoonful of chopped shallots, 
two ounces of chopped tarragon stalks, three ounces of chervil, 
each a pinch of mignonette pepper and salt, and four table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar. Reduce the vinegar by two-thirds, take 
off the fire, let the stewpan cool a little, and add the yolks 
of five eggs. Now put the stewpan on a slow fire and gradu- 
ally combine with the yolks six ounces of melted butter. Whisk 
the sauce briskly, so as to ensure the cooking of the yolks, 
which alone, by gradual cooking, effect the liaison of the sauce. 

When the butter is combined with the sauce, rub the latter 
through a sieve, and finish it with a teaspoonful of chervil par- 
ings and chopped tarragon leaves. Complete the seasoning 
with a suspicion of cayenne. This sauce should not be served 
very hot, as it is really a mayonnaise with butter. It need 
only be tepid, for it would probably turn if it were over- 
heated. Serve with grilled butcher's meat and poultry. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 45 

Valois Sauce, 
Prepare a Bearnaise Sauce as previously explained. Com- 
plete it with three tablespoonfuls of dissolved pale meat glaze, 
which may be added in small quantities at a time. Serve with 
butcher's meat. 

Bearnaise Tomatee Sauce or Choron Sauce. 

Proceed as for Bearnaise Sauce. When the sauce is made 
and rubbed through a sieve, finish it with one-third pint of red 
tomato puree, but do not add chervil and tarragon. 

This may accompany grilled poultry and white butcher's 
meat. 

Sauce Bercy. 

Heat two ounces of chopped shallots. Moisten with one- 
half pint of white wine and as much fish fumet, or, when 
possible, the same quantity of fish liquor, the latter being 
that of a fish similar to the one which the sauce is to accom- 
pany. Reduce to a good third, add one-third pint of veloute, 
let the sauce boil some time, and finish it, away from the fire, 
with four ounces of butter (added slowly), a few drops of 
fish glaze, half the juice of a lemon, and one ounce of chopped 
parsley. 

Serve with medium-sized poached fish. 

Butter Sauce. 

Mix two ounces of sifted flour with two ounces of melted 
butter. Dilute with one quart of boiling water, salted to the 
extent of one-quarter ounce per quart. Stir briskly to ensure 
a perfect liaison, and do not allow to boil. Add immediately 
the yolks of six eggs, mixed with one-quarter pint of cream 
and the juice of half a lemon. Rub through a sieve, and finish 
the sauce with five ounces of best fresh butter. 

Be careful that the sauce does not boil after it has been 
thickened. 

White Bordelaise Sauce. 

Put in a stewpan two ounces of minced shallots, and one- 
half pint of Graves, Sauterne, or any other white Bordeaux. 
Reduce the wine almost entirely, add one-quarter pint of 
veloute, let simmer twenty minutes and rub through a sieve. 
Finish it, away from the fire, with six ounces of butter and a 
little chopped tarragon. 

Serve with grilled fish and grilled white meat. 

Caper Sauce. 

This is a derivative of the Butter Sauce described previously. 



46 STANDARD COOKERY. 

and needs only the addition of two tablespoonfuls of capers 
per pint of sauce. It is served with boiled fish of all kinds. 

Cardinal Sauce. 

Boil one pint of Bechamel, to which add one-half pint of 
fish fumet and a little truffle essence, and reduce by a quarter. 
Finish the sauce, when dishing up, with three tablespoonfuls 
of cream and three ounces of red lobster butter. 

This sauce is poured over the dish. 

Mushroom Sauce. 

If intended for poultry, add one-fifth pint of mushroom liquor 
and eight ounces of button-mushroom heads turned or chan- 
neled and cooked, to one pint of very stiff Allemande Sauce. 

If it be intended for fish, take one pint of fish veloute thick- 
ened vvith the yolks of four eggs, and finish it with mushroom 
liquor, as above. 

Chateaubriand Sauce. 
Place in a stewpan one ounce of chopped shallots, a sprig of 
thyme and a bit of bay, one ounce of mushroom parings, and 
one-quarter pint of white wine. Reduce the wine almost en- 
tirely, add one-half pint of veal gravy, and reduce again until 
the liquid only measures a gill. Strain through muslin, and 
finish the sauce away from the fire with four ounces of butter 
" Maitre d'Hotel," to which add a little chopped tarragon. 
Serve with grilled fillet of beef. 

White Chaud-Froid Sauce. 
Boil one pint of veloute in a stewpan, and add three-quarters 
pint of melted white poultry jelly. Put the stewpan on an 
open fire, reduce the sauce by a third, stirring constantly the 
while, and gradually add one-half pint of very fresh cream. 
When the sauce has reached the desired degree of consistency 
rub it through a sieve, and stir it frequently while it cools, to 
prevent a skin forming on the surface. When dishing up, this 
sauce should be cold, so that it may properly coat immersed 
solids and yet be liquid enough to admit of the latter being 
easily steeped in it. 

Chaud-Froid Sauce, Au Vert-Pre. 

Add to the veloute of the white Chaud-Froid Sauce, at the 
same time as the jelly, an infusion prepared thus: — Boil one 
gill of white wine, and add to it one pinch each of chervil 
stalks, t&rragon leaves, chives, and parsley leaves. Cover, in- 



STANDARD COOKERY. 47 

fuse away from the fire for ten minutes and strain through 
linen. 

Treat the sauce as explained and finish with spinach-green. 
Take care to keep the shade of the sauce a pale green, add 
the coloring principle with caution, until the correct shade is 
obtained. Use this sauce for Chaud-froids of fowl, particularly 
" Printanier." 

Lent Chaud-Froid Sauce. 

Proceed as for white Chaud-Froid, using the same quantities, 
but with the following modifications: — 

Substitute fish veloute for ordinary veloute, and white fish 
jelly for poultry jelly. 

Chivry Sauce. 
In one-half pint of boiling poultry stock put a large pinch 
of chervil pluches, tarragon and parsley leaves, a head of 
young pimpernel and a good pinch of chives. Cover up, and 
for ten or twelve minutes infuse; then add the liquid (strained 
through linen) to one pint of veloute. Boil, reduce by a quar- 
ter, and complete it with two ounces of Green Butter, Chivry 
Sauce may be served with boiled or poached poultry. 

Cream Sauce. 

Boil one pint of Bechamel Sauce, and add one gill of cream 
to it. Reduce on an open fire until the sauce has become very 
thick; then pass through a sieve. Bring to its normal degree 
of consistency by gradually adding, away from the fire, one- 
quarter pint of very fresh cream and a few drops of lemon- 
juice. Serve with boiled fish, poultry, eggs, and various veg- 
etables. 

Shrimp Sauce. 
Boil one pint of fish veloute or, failing this. Bechamel 
Sauce, and add to it one-quarter pint of cream and one-quarter 
pint of very clear fish fumet. Reduce to one pint, and finish 
the sauce, away from the fire, with two ounces of Shrimp 
Butter and two ounces of shelled shrimps' tails. 

Curry Sauce. 
Slightly brown the following vegetables in butter: — Twelve 
ounces of minced onions, one-ounce of parsley roots, four 
ounces of minced celery, a small sprig of thyme, a bit of bay, 
and a little mace. Sprinkle with two ounces of flour and a 
teaspoonful of curry pepper. Cook the flour for some minutes 
without letting it acquire any color, and dilute with one and 



48 STANDARD COOKERY. 

one-half pints of white stock. Boil, cook gently for three- 
quarters of an hour, and rub through a sieve. Now heat the 
sauce, remove its grease, and keep it in the bain-marie. 
Serve with fish, shell-fish, poultry and various egg-prepara- 
tions. 

Sauce Diplomate. 
Take one pint of Normande Sauce, and finish it with two 
ounces of lobster butter and three tablespoonfuls of lobster 
meat, and trufiles cut into small, regular cubes. 

Herb Sauce. 

Prepare one pint of white wine sauce. Finish it away from 
the fire with three ounces of shallot butter, a tablespoonful of 
parsley, chervil, tarragon and chives, chopped and mixed. 
Serve with boiled or poached fish. 

Gooseberry Sauce. 
Prepare one pint of butter sauce. Meanwhile put one pound 
of green gooseberries into a small copper saucepan containing 
boiling water. Boil for five minutes, then drain the goose- 
berries, and put them in a little stewpan with one-half pint 
of white wine and three ounces of powdered sugar. Cook 
gently the gooseberries, rub them through a sieve, and add the 
resulting pulp to the butter sauce. Excellent with grilled mack- 
erel and the poached fillets of that fish. 

Hungarian Sauce. 

Fry gently in butter, without coloring, two tablespoonfuls 
of chopped onions seasoned with table-salt and half a teaspoon- 
ful of paprika. Moisten with a gill of white wine, add a small 
faggot, reduce the wine by two-thirds, and remove the herbs. 

Finish with one pint veloute, according to the use for which 
the sauce is intended, and boil moderately for five minutes. 
Then rub the sauce through a sieve, and complete it with two 
ounces of butter. Remember to keep the sauce a delicate pink 
shade. 

Oyster Sauce. 
Take one pint of Normande Sauce and complete it with a 
gill of reduced oyster liquor, strained through linen, and twelve 
poached and trimmed oysters. 

Sauce Albufera. 

Take the necessary quantity of Supreme Sauce, and add to 
this four tablespoonfuls of dissolved, pale meat glaze per 



STANDARD COOKERY. 49 

quart of sauce, to give it the ivory-white tint which character- 
izes it. Serve with poultry and poached sweet-bread. 

Sauce Joinville. 
Prepare a pint of Normande Sauce and complete it with two 
ounces of shrimp butter and two ounces of crayfish butter. 
If this sauce is to accompany a fish d la Joinville, which in- 
cludes a special garnish, it is served as it stands. If it is 
served with a large, boiled, ungarnished fish, an ounce of black 
trufl3es cut Julienne-fashion should be added. Joinville Sauce 
differs from similar preparations in the final operation where 
crayfish and shrimp butter are combined. 

Mariniere Sauce. 

Take the necessary quantity of Bercy Sauce and add, per 
pint of sauce, one gill of mussel liquor and a liaison composed 
of the yolks of three eggs. 

Serve with small poached fish, particularly with mussels. 

Momay Sauce. 

Boil one pint of Bechamel Sauce with one gill of the fumet 
of that fish. Reduce by a good quarter, and add two ounces 
of Gruyere and two ounces of grated Parmesan. 

Put the sauce on the fire again for a few minutes, and melt 
the cheese by stirring with a small whisk. Finish the sauce 
away from the fire with two ounces of butter added slowly. 

Mousseuse Sauce. 

Scald and wipe dry a small vegetable-pan, and put into it 
one-half pound of stiffiy-manied butter, properly softened. 
Season with tablesalt and a few drops of lemon-juice, and whisk 
while gradually adding one-third pint of cold water. Finish 
with two tablespoonfuls of very firm, whipped cream. This 
preparation is served with boiled fish. The heat of the fish 
alone suffices to melt it. It is much preferred to plain melted 
butter. 

Mustard Sauce 

Take the necessary quantity of butter sauce and complete 
it, away from the fire, with one tablespoonful of mustard per 
pint of sauce. It is served with small grilled fish, especially 
fresh herrings. 

Nantua Sauce. 

Boil one pint of Bechamel Sauce, add one-half pint of cream, 
and reduce by a third. Rub it through a sieve, and finish with 
a further addition of two tablespoonfuls of cream, three ounces 



50 STANDARD COOKERY. 

of very fine crayfish butter, and one tablespoonful of small 
shelled crayfishes' tails. 

Noisette Sauce. 
Prepare a Hollandaise Sauce and add two ounces of hazel- 
nut butter at the last moment. 

Serve with salmon, trout, and boiled fish generally. 

Normande Sauce. 

Put in a saucepan one pint of fish veloute, three tablespoon- 
fuls each of mushroom liquor, oyster liquor and twice as 
much sole fumet, the yolks of three eggs, a few drops of 
lemon-juice, and a gill of cream. Reduce by a good third on 
an open fire, season with a little cayenne, rub through a sieve, 
and finish with two ounces of butter and four tablespoonfuls 
of good cream. 

This sauce is proper for fillet of sole d la Normande, and is 
also used as the base of other small sauces. 

Oriental Sauce. 

Take one pint of American Sauce, season with curry, and 
reduce to a third. Then add, away from the fire, one gill of 
cream per pint of sauce. 

Serve in the same way as American Sauce. 

Poulette Sauce. 

Boil for a few minutes one pint of Sauce Allemande, and 
add six tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Finish, away from 
the fire, with two ounces of butter, a few drops of lemon- 
juice and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 

Ravigotte Sauce, 

Reduce by half, a gill of white wine with half as much 
vinegar. Add one pint of ordinary veloute, boil gently for a 
few minutes, and finish with one and one-half ounces of shallot 
butter and one teaspoonful of chervil, tarragon, and chopped 
chives. Usually served with boiled poultry. 

Soubise Sauce. 

Stew in butter two pounds of finely-minced onions. This 
stewing of the onions in butter increases their flavor. Now 
add one-half pint of thickened Bechamel; season with salt 
and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Cook gently for half an 
hour, rub through a sieve, and complete the sauce with a few 
tablespoonfuls of cream and two ounces of butter. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 51 

Soubise Sauce Tomatee. 
Prepare a soubise as described above, and add to it one-third 
of its volume of very red tomato puree. 

Sauce Supreme. 

Put into a saucepan one and one-half pints of clear poultry 
stock and one gill of mushroom cooking liquor. Reduce to 
two-thirds ; add one pint of " poultry veloute " ; reduce again, 
stirring with a spatula the while, and combine half pint of cream 
with the sauce, this last being added by degrees. 

When the sauce has reached the desired consistence, strain 
through a sieve, and add another gill of cream and two ounces 
of best butter. Stir with a spoon, from time to time. 

Venetian Sauce. 

Put into a stewpan one tablespoonful of chopped shallots, one 
tablespoonful of chervil, and one gill of white wine and tar- 
ragon vinegar, mixed in equal quantities. Reduce the vine- 
gar by two-thirds; add one pint of white wine sauce; boil for 
a few minutes; rub through a sieve, and finish the sauce with 
sufficient herb juice and one teaspoonful of chopped chervil 
and tarragon. Served with various fish, 

Villeroy Sauce. 

Put into a saucepan one pint of Allemande Sauce to which 
has been added two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence and ham 
essence. 

Reduce, and stir until the sauce is sufficiently stiff to coat 
immersed solids thickly. 

White Wine Sauce. 

May be made by three methods. 

1. Add one-quarter pint of fish fumet to one pint of thick- 
ened veloute, and reduce by half. Finish the sauce, away from 
the fire, with four ounces of butter. Thus prepared it is suit- 
able for glazed fish. 

2. Almost entirely reduce a gill of fish fumet. To this re- 
duction add the yolks of four eggs, mixing them well in it, 
and follow with one pound of butter, added by degrees. 

3. Put the yolks of five eggs into a small stewpan and mix 
with them, one tablespoonful of cold fish-stock. Put the stew- 
pan in a bain-marie and finish the sauce with one pound of but- 
ter, adding from time to time, and in small quantities six 
tablespoonfuls of fish fumet. 



52 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Apple Sauce. 

Peel, quarter, core, and chip two pounds of medium-sized 
apples; place these in a stewpan with one tablespoonful of pow- 
dered sugar, a bit of cinnamon, and a few tablespoonfuls of 
water. Cook gently with lid on, and smooth the puree with a 
whisk when dishing up. 

Serve lukewarm with duck, goose, roast hare, etc. 

Bread Sauce. 

Boil one pint of milk, and add three ounces of fresh, white 
bread-crumbs, a little salt, a small onion with a clove stuck 
in it, and one ounce of butter. Cook gently for a quarter of 
an hour, remove the onion, smooth the sauce with a whisk, and 
finish it with a few tablespoonfuls of cream. 

Serve with roast fowl and roast feathered game. 

Celery Sauce. 

Clean six stalks of celery using only the hearts, put them in 
a saucepan, wholly immerse in consomme, add a faggot and one 
onion with a clove stuck in it, and cook gently. Drain the 
celery, pound it in a mortar, then rub it through a sieve and 
put the puree in stewpan. Now thin the puree with an equal 
quantity of cream sauce and a little reduced celery liquor. 
Heat it moderately, and if it has to wait, put it in a bain- 
marie. 

Serve with boiled or braised poultry. 

Cranberry Sauce. 

Cook a pint of cranberries and a quart of water in a stew- 
pan, and cover the stewpan. When the berries are cooked 
strain them through a fine sieve. To the puree thus obtained 
add the necessary quantity of their cooking liquor, so as to 
make a somewhat thick sauce. Sugar according to taste. 

This sauce is mostly served with roast turkey. 

Fennel Sauce. 
Take one pint of butter sauce and finish it with two table- 
spoonfuls of chopped fennel, scald for a few seconds. 
Serve principally with mackerel. 

Egg Sauce With Melted Butter. 

Dissolve one-quarter pound of butter, and add to it the neces- 
sary salt, a little pepper, half the juice of a lemon, and three 
hard-boiled eggs (hot and cut into large cubes) ; also a tea- 
spoonful of chopped and scalded parsley. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 53 

Horse-Radish Sauce. 

Rasp five ounces of horseradish and place in a stewpan with 
a gill of white consomme. Boil gently for twenty minutes and 
add a half pint of butter sauce and cream, and one-half ounce 
of breadcrumbs; thicken by reducing on a brisk fire and rub 
through sieve. Then thicken with the yolks of two eggs, and 
complete the seasoning with a pinch of salt and pepper, and a 
teaspoonful of mustard dissolved in a tablespoonful of vine- 
gar. 

Serve with braised or roast beef. 

Parsley Sauce. 
This is Butter Sauce, to which is added a heaped tablespoon- 
ful of freshly-chopped parsley to the pint. 

Reform Sauce. 

Put into a small stewpan and boil one pint of half-glaze 
sauce and one-half pint of ordinary Poivrade sauce. Complete 
with a garnish composed of half an ounce of gherkins, half an 
ounce of the hard-boiled white of an egg, one ounce of salted 
tongue, one ounce of trufiies, and one ounce of mushrooms. 
All to be cut Julienne-fashion and short. 

Served with mutton cutlets and designated a la Reforme. 

Genoa Sauce. 

Pound in a mortar, and make into a smooth, fine paste, one 
ounce of pistachios and one ounce of fir-apple kernels, or, if 
these are not available, one ounce of sweet almonds; add half 
a tablespoonful of cold Bechamel. Put paste into a bowl, 
add the yolks of six eggs, a little salt and pepper, and finish 
the sauce with one quart of oil, the juice of one lemon, and 
proceed as for Mayonnaise. 

Complete with three tablespoonfuls of puree of herbs, pre- 
pared with equal quantities of chervil, parsley, tarragon, and 
fresh pimpernel, previously blanched. Cool quickly, expel the 
water, and pass through a fine sieve. 

Serve with cold fish. 

Mayonnaise Sauce. 

Put in a bowl the yolks of six raw eggs, after having re- 
moved the cores. Season with half ounce of table salt and a 
little cayenne pepper. Gradually pour one-fifth pint of vine- 
gar on the yolks while whisking them briskly. When the 
vinegar is absorbed add one quart of oil, very slowly, con- 
stantly stirring the sauce meanwhile. The sauce is finished by 



54 .STANDARD COOKERY. 

the addition of the juice of a lemon and three tablespoonfuls of 
boiling water — the purpose of the latter being to ensure the 
coherence of the sauce and to prevent its turning. 

Mayonnaise prepared in this way is rather liquid, but left 
to rest a few hours will thicken considerably. Unless it be ex- 
posed to too low a temperature, the Mayonnaise, prepared as 
above, never turns, and may be kept sweet for several days. 
Keep free from dust by covering. 

Cleared Mayonnaise Sauce. 

Take the necessary quantity of Mayonnaise and gradually 
add to it, per one and one-half pints of the sauce, one-half 
pint of cold and rather firm melting aspic jelly — Lenten or 
ordinary, according to the nature of the products for which 
the sauce is intended. 

Whisked Mayonnaise. 

Put into a copper saucepan or other bowl three-quarters pint of 
melted jelly, two-thirds pint of Mayonnaise, one tablespoonful 
of tarragon vinegar, and rasped finely-chopped horse-radish. 
Mix up the whole, place the utensil on ice, and whisk gently 
until the contents get very frothy. Stop whisking as soon as 
the sauce begins to solidify, for it must remain almost fluid so 
as to enable it to mix with the products for which it is intended. 

Use principally for vegetable salads. 

Ravigote Sauce, or Vinaigrette. 

Put into a bowl one pint of oil, one-third pint of vinegar, 
a little salt and pepper, two ounces of small capers, three table- 
spoonfuls of fine herbs, comprising finely chopped onion, as 
much parsley, and half as much chervil, tarragon, and chives. 
Mix thoroughly. The Ravigote accompanies calf's head or 
foot, sheep's trotters, etc. 

Remoulade Sauce. 

To one pint of Mayonnaise add a large tablespoonful each 
of mustard, gherkins, chopped and pressed capers, one table- 
spoonful of fine herbs, parsley, chervil, and tarragon, all chopped 
and mixed, and a teaspoonful of anchovy essence. 

This sauce is served with cold meat, poultry, and lobster. 

Cambridge Sauce. 

Pound together the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, the washed 
and dried fillets of four anchovies, a teaspoonful of capers, a 
dessertspoonful of chervil, tarragon, and chives, mixed. When 
the whole forms a fine paste, add one tablespoonful of mustard. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 55 

one-fifth pint of oil, one tablespoonful of vinegar, and proceed 
as for a Mayonnaise. Season with a little cayenne ; rub through 
sieve, pressed with a spoon, and put the sauce in a bowl. Stir 
awhile with a whisk to smooth it, and finish with one teaspoon- 
ful of chopped parsley. 

Suited to cold meats in general, 

Cumberland Sauce. 

Dissolve four tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly, to which 
are added one-fifth pint of port wine, one teaspoonful of finely- 
chopped shallots, scalded for a few seconds and pressed, one 
teaspoonful of small pieces of orange rind and as much lemon 
rind (cut finely, Julienne fashion, scalded for two minutes, 
well-drained, and cooled), the juice of an orange and that of 
half a lemon, one teaspoonful of mustard, a little cayenne pep- 
per, and as much powdered ginger. Mix the whole well. 

Serve with cold venison. 

Gloucester Sauce. 

Take one pint of very thick Mayonnaise and complete it with 
one-fifth pint of sour cream and the juice of a lemon and com- 
bine with the Mayonnaise by degrees one teaspoonful of 
chopped fennel and as much Worcester Sauce. 

Serve with all cold meats. 

Oxford Sauce. 

Make a Cumberland Sauce as previously described but in- 
stead of the Julienne of orange and lemon rinds use rasped or 
finely-chopped rinds, and about two-thirds of a teaspoonful of 
each. 

Horse-Radish Sauce. 

Dilute one tablesponful of mustard with two tablespoonfuls 
of vinegar in a bowl, add one pound of finely rasped horse- 
radish, two ounces of powdered sugar, a little salt, one pint of 
cream, and one pound of breadcrumbs steeped in milk and 
pressed. 

Serve very cold with boiled and roast beef. 

Bercy Butter. 

Put into a small stewpan a gill of white wine and one ounce 
of finely-chopped shallots, previously blanched. Reduce the 
wine by one-half, and add half a pound of butter, softened 
into a cream ; one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, two ounces 
of beef marrow cut into cubes, poached in slightly salted water 



56 STANDARD COOKERY. 

and drained, the necessary table-salt, and a little ground pepper 
and a few drops of lemon-juice. 

This butter must not be completely melted, and is served with 
grilled beef. 

Ravigote Butter. 

Put into a small saucepan of salted, boiling water, six ounces 
of chervil, parsley, tarragon, fresh pimpernel, and chives, in 
equal quantities, and two ounces of chopped shallots. Boil 
quickly for two minutes, drain, cool in cold water, press in a 
towel to completely remove the water, and pound in a mortar. 
Now add one-half pound of half-melted butter, mix well with 
the puree of herbs, and pass through sieve. 

Chateaubriand Butter. 

Reduce, by two-thirds, four-fifths of a pint of white wine 
containing four chopped shallots, fragments of thyme and bay, 
and four ounces of mushroom parings. Add four-fifths pint 
of veal gravy, reduce the whole to half, rub it through sieve, 
and finish it away from the fire with eight ounces of Maitre 
d'Hotel butter and a dessertspoonful of chopped tarragon. 

Colbert Butter. 

Take one pound of Maitre d'Hotel butter, add six tablespoon- 
fuls of dissolved, pale meat glaze and one teaspoonful of 
chopped tarragon. 

Serve with fish prepared a la Colbert. 

Green Coloring Butter. 

Peel, wash and thoroughly shake free from water two pounds 
of spinach. Pound it raw and then press it in a strong towel, 
twisting the latter so as to extract all the green juice. Pour 
this into a saucepan, let it coagulate in a bain-marie, and pour 
it on to a serviette stretched over a bowl in order to drain 
away the water. Collect the coloring substance on the ser- 
viette, using a palette-knife for the purpose, and put into a 
mortar; mix with half its weight of butter, strain through a 
sieve, and put aside to cool. This green butter is always pre- 
ferable to the liquid green found on the market. 

Various CuUises. 

Finely pound shrimp and crayfish shells, and combine with 

these the available creamy parts and spawn of the common 

and spiny lobsters ; add a gill of rich cream per pound of the 

above remains, and strain through a fine sieve. This cullis 



STANDARD COOKERY. 57 

is prepared just in time for dishing up, and serves as a re- 
fining principle in certain fish sauces. 

Shrimp Butter. 
Finely pound any available shrimp remains, add to these their 
weight of butter, and strain through a sieve. Place in a bowl 
and put aside in the cool. 

Shallot Butter. 

Put eight ounces of roughly minced shallots in the corner 
of a clean towel, and wash them quickly in boiling water. 
Cool and press them heavily. Then pound them finely with 
their own weight of fresh butter and strain through sieve. 

This butter accentuates the savor of certain sauces, such as 
Bercy, Ravigote, etc. 

Crayfish Butter. 

Pound very finely, the remains and shells of crayfish cooked 
in Mirepoix. Add their weight of butter, and strain through a 
fine sieve, to remove any shell particles. 

Tarragon Butter. 

Blanch and cool eight ounces of fresh tarragon, drain, press 
in a towel, pound in a mortar, and add to them one pound of 
butter. Strain through sieve, and put aside in the cool if not 
to be used immediately. 

Lobster Butter. 

Reduce to a paste in the mortar the spawn, shell, and creamy 
parts of lobster. Add their equal in weight of butter and 
strain through sieve. 

Butter a la Maitre d'HoteL 

First manie and then soften into a cream one-half pound of 
butter. Add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a little salt 
and pepper, and a few drops of lemon-juice. Serve with grills 
in general. 

Manied Butter. 

Mix, until perfectly combined, four ounces of butter and 
three ounces of sifted flour. This butter is made immediately 
before the time of dishing up, and is used for quick liaisons 
like Matelotes, etc. 

The sauce to which manied butter has been added should 
not boil if this can be avoided, as it thereby acquires a very 
disagreeable taste of raw flour. 



58 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Melted Butter. 

This, used principally as a fish sauce, should consist of but- 
ter, only just melted, and combined with a little table-salt and 
a few drops of lemon-juice. It should therefore be prepared 
only at the last minute; for, should it wait and be allowed to 
clarify, besides losing its flavor it will be found to disagree 
with certain people. 

Butter a la Meuniere. 

Put into a frying-pan the necessary quantity of butter, and 
cook gently until it has acquired a golden tint and exudes a 
slight smell of nut. Add a few drops of lemon-juice, and pour 
on the fish under treatment, which should have been previously 
sprinkled with concassed parsley. 

This butter is proper to fish a la Meuniere, and is always 
served on the fish. 

Montpellier Butter. 

Blanch equal quantities of watercress leaves, parsley, chervil, 
chives, and tarragon (six ounces in all) one and one-half 
ounces of chopped shallots, and one-half ounce of spinach 
leaves. Drain, cool, press in a towel to expel water, and 
pound in a mortar with one tablespoonful of pressed capers, 
four ounces of gherkins, a garlic clove, and the fillets of four 
anchovies well washed. 

Mix this paste with one and one-half pounds of butter; then 
add the yolks of three boiled eggs and two raw eggs, and 
finally pour in by degrees, two-fifths pint of oil. Strain 
through a fine sieve, put the butter into a bowl, and stir it well 
with a wooden spoon so as to make it smooth. Season with 
table salt and a little cayenne. 

Use this butter to deck large fish, such as salmon, and trout; 
it is also used for smaller pieces and slices of fish. 

Black Butter. 

Put into a frying pan the necessary amount of butter, and 
cook it until it has a brown color and begins to smoke. At 
this moment add a large pinch of concassed parsley leaves and 
spread it immediately over the object to be treated. 

Hazel-Nut Butter. 
Put eight ounces of shelled hazel-nuts, for a moment, in 
the front of the oven, in order to slightly grill their skins and 
make them easily removable. Now crush the nuts in a mor- 
tar until they form a paste, and add a few drops of cold water 



STANDARD COOKERY. 59 

with a view to preventing their producing any oil. Add their 
equivalent in weight of butter and rub through sieve. 

Pistachio Butter. 

Put into boiling water half pound of pistachios, and keep 
them on the side of the fire until the peel may be easily re- 
moved. Drain, cool in cold water, clean the pistachios, and 
finely pound while moistening them with water. Add two 
ounces of butter and pass through sieve. 

Printanier Butter. 

These butters are made from all early-season vegetables, 
such as carrots, French-beans, peas and asparagus heads. 

When dealing with green vegetables cook quickly in boiling 
salted water, drain, dry, pound with their weight of butter, 
and rub through sieve. 

With carrots. Mince and cook with consomme, sugar and 
butter until the diluent is quite reduced. After cooking they 
are pounded, with their own weight of butter and rubbed 
through sieve. 

Hot Tartar Sauce. 

Put four tablespoonfuls of white sauce in a small stewpan, 
four of broth or milk, boil a few minutes, then add two table- 
spoonfuls of the tartar sauce in it, stir it very quickly with a 
wooden spoon, make it quite hot, but not boiling; put it on a 
dish, and serve where described. 

Maitre d'Hotel Sauce. 

Put eight spoonfuls of white sauce in a stewpan, with four 
of white stock or milk; boil it five minutes, then stir in two 
ounces of Maitre d'Hotel butter ; stir it quickly over the fire 
until the butter is melted, but do not let the sauce boil after 
the butter is in; this sauce should only be made at the time of 
serving. 

Vegetable Sauce. 

Take equal parts of carrot, turnips, mushrooms, sausages, 
and boiled shelled chestnuts. Cut into small pieces and place 
in a stewpan or earthenware cooking pot. Add just sufficient 
clear stock to cover, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, 
when a spoonful of sherry and a little pepper and salt should 
be added. 

This mixture is largely used in Spain as an addition to 
chicken sweetbread, or indeed almost any kind of meat. 



6o STANDARD COOKERY. 

Eschalot Sauce. 

Chop fine about a good tablespoonful of shallot, place it in 
the corner of a napkin, and pour water over; press until dry, 
and put in a small stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 
one clove, a little mace; boil two minutes, add ten tablespoon- 
fuls of demi-glaze, boil a little longer, add a little sugar, and 
serve. 

Piquant or Sharp Sauce. 

Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, or shallots, cleaned 
as above, into a stewpan; put also four tablespoonfuls of vine- 
gar, and a bay-leaf, and boil ; then add ten tablespoonfuls of 
brown sauce, half a one of chopped parsley, ditto of green 
gherkins; boil five minutes, skim, add a little sugar, taste if 
well seasoned, take out bay-leaf and serve. 

Tarragon Sauce. 

Put eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and four of broth, 
into a stewpan; boil for a few minutes, add a tablespoonful of 
vinegar, have ready picked twenty leaves of fresh tarragon, put 
in to simmer two minutes, and serve with any kind of poultry, 
but especially spring chickens. 

Brown Cucumber Sauce. 
Peel a small fresh cucumber, cut it in neat pieces, put in a 
stewpan with a little sugar, add half an ounce of butter, set 
it on a slow fire, stir it now and then, add twelve tablespoon- 
fuls of brown sauce, and eight of broth; let it simmer till ten- 
der, skim the butter off, remove the cucumber into another stew- 
pan, pass the sauce, reduce it a little, taste it, pour over, and 
serve. 

Mince Herb Sauce. 

Put two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onions in a stew- 
pan, add a tablespoonful of oil, place it on the fire, stir a few 
minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and four of 
broth or water; boil, skim; if too thick, and the scum should 
not rise, add half a gill of broth or water; boil, and reduce to a 
proper thickness, and add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, 
if at hand, one of mushrooms, and season with a little cayenne; 
the juice of a quarter of a lemon; serve. I often introduce a 
little garlic in this. 

Italian Herb Sauce. 

Proceed in the same way as the above, only add a little 
chopped thyme, and a small glass of sherry. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 6i 

Sauce Robert. 

Peel and cut up two good-sized onions, put them in stewpan 
with an ounce of butter, till they are a nice yellow color, then 
add eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and two of water or 
broth; skim, boil quickly; when of a proper thickness add a 
good tablespoonful of French mustard; season rather high, if 
no French mustard, use English, but French is preferable as it 
adds to the flavor. 

Ravigote Sauce. 

Put in a stewpan one middle-sized onion sliced, with a little 
carrot, a little thyme, bay leaf, one clove, a little mace, a little 
scraped horse-radish, a little butter, fry a few minutes, then 
add three teaspoonfuls of vinegar, ten tablespoonfuls of brown 
sauce, four of broth ; when boiling, skim, add a tablespoonful of 
currant jelly; when melted, pass all through a sieve, and serve 
with any kind of meat or poultry; with hare or venison it is 
excellent. 

Brown Mushroom Sauce. 
Clean and cut twelve small mushrooms in slices, place them 
in a stewpan with a little butter, salt, pepper, the juice of a 
quarter of a lemon, set it on a slow fire for a few minutes, 
then add ten spoonfuls of demi-glaze; boil till they are tender, 
and serve. A little mushroom catsup may be introduced. 

Orange Sauce for Game. 
Peel half an orange, removing all the pith; cut it into slices, 
and then in fillets; put them in a gill of water to boil for two 
minutes; drain them on a sieve, throwing the water away; 
place in the stewpan two spoonfuls of demi-glaze or ten of 
broth ; and, when boiling, add the orange, a little sugar, sim- 
mer ten minutes, skim, and serve. The juice of half an orange 
is an improvement. This is served with ducklings and water- 
fowl or any roast game; those that like may add cayenne and 
mustard. 

Garlic Sauce. 

Though many dislike the flavor of this root, yet those that 
like it ought not to be deprived of it. Put in a stewpan ten 
tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, a little tomato sauce, if handy; 
boil it a few minutes, scrape half a clove of garlic, put it in 
with a little sugar, and serve. 

Mint Sauce for Lamb. 
Take three tablespoonfuls of chopped leaves of green mint, 



62 STANDARD COOKERY. 

three tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, and put into a basin with 
half a pint of brown vinegar; stir it well up, add one salt- 
spoonful of salt, and serve. 

Liaison of Eggs. 

Break the yolks of three eggs in a basin, with which mix 
six spoonfuls of milk, or eight of cream; pass it through a fine 
sieve, and use when directed. 

Anchovy Butter Sauce. 

Put into a stewpan eight spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or three 
of broth; when boiling, add one ounce of anchovy butter; stir 
continually till melted; serve where directed. 

Soyer's Sauce. 

Put six spoonfuls of demi-glaze into a stewpan; when hot, 
add four spoonfuls of Soyer's Gentleman's Sauce; let boil, and 
serve with either chop, steak, cutlet, poultry, or game. 

Papillotte Sauce. 

Scrape half an ounce of fat bacon, put it in a pan with four 
tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, stir over the fire for a few 
minutes, then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce and boil ; 
then add a tablespoonful of mushrooms chopped, one ditto of 
parsley, a little nutmeg, a little pepper and sugar, a quarter of 
a clove of scraped garlic; reduce till rather thickish; put on 
dish till cold, and use it for anything you may put up en 
Papillotte. 

Tomato Sauce. 

If fresh, put six in stewpan; having removed the stalk, and 
squeezed them in the hand to remove pips, etc., add half an 
onion, sliced, a sprig of thyme, a bay leaf, half an ounce of 
celery, one ounce of ham or bacon, same of butter, teaspoon- 
ful of sugar, same of salt, a salt spoonful of pepper; set on 
fire to stew gently; when all tender, add a tablespoonful of 
flour, moisten with half a pint of broth, boil five minutes, add a 
little cayenne, taste if highly seasoned, pass it through sieve, 
put it back in stewpan, until it adheres rather thick to the 
back of the spoon, and use it for any kind of meat or poultry. 
If fresh tomatoes are not available use canned tomatoes, but 
always remember that fresh tomatoes are to be preferred.' 

A Very Good and Useful White Sauce. 

Put a quart of white sauce in a stewpan of the necessary 
capacity on a fire; stir continually until reduced to one-third; 



STANDARD COOKERY. 63 

put two yolks of eggs in a basin, stir them well up, add your 
sauce g^radually, keep stirring, put back in stewpan, set it to 
boil for a few minutes longer, then add one pint of boiling 
milk, which will bring it to its proper thickness; that is, when 
it adheres transparently to the back of a spoon ; pass through 
a sieve into a bowl, stir now and then till cold. If not im- 
mediately required, and I have any stock left, I use half of it 
with half of milk. I also try this way, which is very con- 
venient: when the yolks are in, and well boiled, I put it in a 
large gallipot, and when cold, cover with pieces of paper; it 
will keep good in winter for two or three weeks, and for quite 
a week in summer ; when I want to use a little of it, I only 
take a spoonful or two and warm it on the fire, and add enough 
milk or white broth to bring it to a proper thickness, and use 
where required. This sauce is very smooth, and never turns 
greasy; it lies beautifully on fowl or any white made dish; the 
addition of a drop of cream gives it a very fine white appear- 
ance. 

Onion Puree Sauce. 

Peel and cut six onions in slices; put in a stewpan, with a 
quarter of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of 
sugar, a half one of pepper ; place on a slow fire to simmer till 
in a pulp, stirring them now and then to prevent them get- 
ting brown, then add one tablespoonful of flour, a pint of 
milk, and boil till a proper thickness, which should be a little 
thicker than melted butter; pass through a sieve, warm again, 
and serve with mutton cutlets, chops, rabbits, or fowl ; by not 
passing it, it will do for roast mutton and boiled rabbit as 
onion sauce. 

Puree of Cauliflower Sauce. 

Boil a cauliflower well in three pints of water, in which you 
have previously put one ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls of 
salt; when done, chop it up, having prepared and slowly cooked 
in a stewpan an onion sliced, a little celery, half a turnip, one 
ounce of ham, two of butter, a little bay-leaf, mace, add then 
the cauliflower, stir round, add a tablespoonful of flour, moisten 
as above for onions, pass, and finish the same way. 
Jerusalem Artichoke Sauce. 

Peel twelve, and well wash ; boil till tender, and proceed as 
above. 

Bourgeoise Sauce. 

Mince five or six shallots and some parsley ; place them in an 



64 STANDARD COOKERY. 

enameled saucepan with a little broth or water, a teaspoonful 
of vinegar, and some pepper and salt. Let it boil until the 
shallots are cooked. 

This sauce can be used with cold meat, whether roast or 
boiled. 

Black Butter. 

This sauce is usually served as an addition to boiled fish, 
and is particularly excellent with skate. It is also used with 
fried eggs. 

Place some butter in a frying-pan and let it cook just to the 
point of darkening, but be very careful not to burn it. Throw 
in some small sprigs of parsley and let them fry. Then pour 
it over the fish. At once place a little vinegar in the frying- 
pan, and as soon as it is hot pour it also over the fish and 
serve at once. 

Dutch Sauce. 

.Set the yolks of four eggs in a pan over the fire until they 
are of the consistency of a custard, and then blend carefully 
with half a pint of melted butter. Great care must be taken 
that this does not boil, or it will be utterly spoilt. Add two 
tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice and a little chopped parsley, pep- 
per, and salt and just a suspicion of nutmeg before serving. 

This sauce is suitable for fish or cutlets, but it is too rich to 
suit every palate. 

Cameline Sauce. 

Toast lightly some slices of bread and let them simmer over 
the fire in an enameled saucepan with as much red wine and 
vinegar in equal parts as they will absorb. Season with mixed 
spices and turn out the whole to cool upon a plate, after which 
strain through a cloth. 

This sauce, if placed in a covered vessel, will keep good for 
a week, and may be used as an accompaniment to roast joint. 

Cherry Sauce. 

Stone one pound of ripe cherries, break the stones and let 
the kernels simmer with just enough water to cover them for 
fifteen minutes. Now strain out the kernels, and add to the 
water the cherries, a glass of claret, four cloves, a small slice 
of stale bread, and sufficient sugar to make the whole sweet. 
Stir in a pint of water and cook gently for half an hour. Now 
press the whole through a sieve and let it boil again until 
moderately thick. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 65 

This should be served very hot with either roast pork or 
game. 

Wine Sauce. 

Stir into half a pint of red wine, mixed with a quarter of a 
pint of water, the yolks of five eggs, a tablespoonful of sugar, 
the minced rind of a lemon, and a little cinnamon. Place over 
a good fire and stir until the sauce begins to thicken. Then 
take off the fire and serve. 



66 STANDARD COOKERY. 



FISH AND FISH SAUCES. 

Grilled Fish. 

This method is best suited to small fish of medium size. 
All the white fish should be rolled in flour and oil or clarified 
butter. Placed on a grid under a very bright fire, taking care 
that the grid is very hot before placing fish thereon. If you 
omit this the fish will stick to the grid, 

Salmon, trout, red-mullet, herring, mackerel need not be 
floured but must be rolled in oil or clarified butter in order to 
give fish a light brown color and secure the fine flavor. 

This is the only way recommended for grilling except by 
cooking by the paper bag process which I introduced and which 
is equivalent to the best grilling and without all sorts of ap- 
pliances. Maitre d'Hotel, anchovy sauces, Ravigote, deviled 
sauce are the best sauces for grilled fish. 

Fish Frying a la Frangaise. 

Is performed by rolling the fish (after cleaning) in salted 
milk and then in flour. It is then plunged into boiling fat and 
cooked until a light brown color. It is then allowed to drain 
and is ready to serve. 

Fish Frying a I'Anglaise. 

After cleaning the fish it is rolled in flour and then im- 
mersed in the liquor formed of well-whisked eggs. It is next 
rolled in bread-crumbs and patted with a palette knife to en- 
sure both the cohesion of the whole coating and a good shape 
to the fish. 

When cooked the fish is served either on napkins, a drainer, 
or special dish-papers, and garnished with sprigs of fried parsley 
and slices or quarters of lemon. 

Fish Cooked on a Spit and Called a la Brioche. 

This is suitable for large fish, such as a twelve pound sal- 
mon or cod. 

Trim and clean your fish in the usual way. Next chop 
finely one shallot and one onion and stew together in butter 
for two or three minutes, taking care that they do not color. 



STANDARD COOKERY. (^7 

Take from off the fire. Now prepare a mixture comprising 
one quarter pound of bread crumbs, the contents of two eggs, 
two teaspoonfuls of anchovy sauce (or, preferably half dozen 
cleaned and filleted anchovies), one tablespoonful of capers, a 
few mushrooms sliced and cooked, one tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley, a pinch of thyme and bay-leaves passed through a 
sieve, a piece of butter the size of an ^gg, salt and pepper. 
Form into a compact mass. 

Sprinkle the interior of fish with flour, after which stuff 
with the above mixture. Cut six very thin slices of fat ham 
or bacon and wrap about the fish to prevent the stuffing from 
falling out; tying round with thin string. Now take two or 
three very large sheets of grease-proof paper, well buttered, 
and roll these round your fish in a treble thickness and tied 
with kitchen string. 

The fish can now be placed on a cradle spit before the fire 
for three-quarters of an hour to one hour, basting occasionally. 

The best sauce is one of plain melted butter and should be 
served with the fish together with plain baked potatoes. Care 
must be taken in removing paper and string from the fish 
when cooked, otherwise it may fall to pieces. 

Fish cooked in this way was rightly described by my grand- 
father, Alexis Soyer, as a dish for a millionaire, although it is 
not costly. 

Cooking a la Meuniere 

IS a style of cooking usually applied to fish, but is most suited 
to small fish rather than large. Fillets of sole, whiting, mack- 
erel, turbot, cod, trout and small salmon are cooked very nicely 
by this method. Large fish may be treated in this way but 
they require constant basting. 

Example. — Take six small trout, or fillets of sole, well dry 
and roll in flour. Take a frying-pan and place therein a lump 
of butter of the size of an ^%%. Place on the fire and, when 
melted and very hot, put in the fillets and cook for one minute 
on each side, shaking the pan constantly to prevent sticking. 
Take out fish and place on a very hot dish. Into the butter 
put one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, one tablespoonful of 
capers, one tablespoonful of anchovy sauce and the juice of a 
lemon. Shake well together while over the fire and when quite 
hot add one teaspoonful of French vinegar. Bring to boil 
quickly, then pour over the fish and serve at once, very hot, 
with plain boiled potatoes and a cucumber salad if in season. 



68 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Bass. 

This is a species of perch, and is like a trout in shape, ex- 
cept that its head is larger. Its flavor is finest just previous to 
spawning; it is never caught in rivers, but in bays at the 
mouth of freshwater streams, and, when in season, is exceed- 
ingly good and very wholesome; it should be cooked in every 
way like salmon. 

BrUls 

are cooked in the same manner as turbots, but, being smaller, 
do not require so long boiling. But, in boiling any description 
of fish, never take it up until it will leave the bone with 
facility, which try by placing the point of a knife between the 
flesh and the bone; if done, the knife will part them easily. 

Carp became naturalized in this country in 1514, since which 
time the breed has considerably increased; they might be made 
of more value if proper attention were paid to them. Choose 
them of a middling size, with a soft roe, if possible; the scales 
of a yellowish color near the belly; the eyes bright; the gills 
very red, and hard to pull out; should a hard-roed one be pre- 
ferred, do not choose it too full. In cleaning, take off the 
scales as in the last, then make a small incision in the belly, 
close to the bladder; pull out the gills, and the interior will 
come with them ; should any, however, remain, take it out of 
the incision without breaking the gall or disturbing the roe; 
lay it in spring water half an hour to disgorge, then dry it with 
a cloth. The large sea carp, some of which weigh from thirty 
to fifty pounds, are not worth cooking. 

Carp, Sauce Matelote. 
Put your carp in a small oval fish-kettle, with wine and 
vegetables as in next recipe, to which add also a pint of water 
and a little salt, with a few cloves and peppercorns; put the 
lid upon the fish-kettle, and stand it over a moderate fire to 
stew about an hour, according to the size ; when done, drain 
well, dress upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce over with 
a matelote sauce, made as directed, on page 99, or caper sauce, 
as for skate; small carp are very good flavored bread-crumbed 
and fried. 

Baked Carp. 
Procure a good-sized carp, stuff it, then put it into a baking- 
dish, with two onions, one carrot, one turnip, one head of 
celery, and a good bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; 



STANDARD COOKERY. 69 

moisten with two glasses of port wine, half a pint of water, 
salt, pepper and oil, and put it in a moderate oven about two 
hours to bake; try if done with a knife, which is the case if the 
flesh leaves the bone easily; dress upon a dish without a nap- 
kin; then have ready the following sauce: mince a large 
Spanish onion with two common ones, and put them into a 
stewpan with three spoonfuls of salad-oil, saute rather a yel- 
low color, add two glasses of port wine, and one spoonful of 
flour, mix all well together, add a pint of broth (reserved from 
some soup) or water, with half an ounce of glaze, or half a 
gill of brown gravy, or a few drops of coloring; boil it up, 
drain the stock the carp was cooked in from the vegetables, 
which also add to the sauce; boil well at the corner of the 
stove, skim, and when rather thick add a teaspoonful of Harvey 
sauce, one of essence of anchovies, twelve pickled mushrooms, 
and a little cayenne pepper, pour all the liquor drained from 
the fish out of your dish, sauce over, and serve. 
Stewed Carp. 

Cut two pounds of carp or other white fish into strips, and 
place in a saucepan with a cupful of chopped mushrooms, a 
sliced carrot and a minced onion. Add half a pint of clear 
stock, a large wineglassful of claret, a little parsley, thyme, and a 
clove, with pepper and salt to taste. Simmer the whole for an 
hour, then add a tablespoonful of capers and turn out the 
stewed fish carefully over some slices of hot toast in a deep 
dish. 

Boiled Crimped Cod. 

Place from two to three pounds of crimped cod carefully 
wiped in a fish kettle with sufficient warm water to just cover 
it. Add a wineglassful of white wine vinegar, a sliced onion, 
a few peppercorns, one clove, and a tablespoonful of salt. Let 
this boil up quickly and then simmer for about five minutes, 
or until the fish is done. 

After draining, the fish should be dished up on a serviette 
and may be served with any sauce that is preferred. 

Bacalao. 

Well soak one pound of salt cod, then boil it until half 
cooked, and break into coarse flakes. Now prepare half a 
pint of tomato sauce, made of stewed tomatoes mixed with a 
finely-minced onion fried in a little olive oil, and a pinch of 
cinnamon, with pepper and salt to taste. Mix this sauce with 
the cod, place the whole in an earthenware dish, cover with 
slices of bread and butter, and bake until well done. 



70 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Crabs and Tomatoes. 

Take one pound of finely chopped crab meat and mix it 
with half a pint of tomato sauce, half a pound of bread-crumbs, 
some parsley, pepper, and salt, the thinly-pared rind and the 
juice of a lemon and a large glass of sherry. Stir the mixture 
thoroughly, make it very hot in the oven, and serve with fried 
potatoes. 

Crab au Gratin. 

Take three-quarters of a pound of the meat of crabs, mince 
finely, adding pepper, salt, and a tablespoonful of grated cheese 
moistened with a tablespoonful of sherry. Stir these into half 
a pint of white stock, and simmer for ten minutes. Next place 
slices of toast in a baking dish, pour the mixture over them, 
and cover with some grated cheese. Brown in a very hot oven 
and serve at once. 

This is colloquially known in France as " Crab in the style of 
St. Lawrence." 

Fried Shrimps. 

Shell one and a half dozen good-sized shrimps, chop them 
coarsely and fry with half an ounce of butter and an ounce of 
minced ham. Add at once a cupful of boiling white stock and 
the juice of a lemon, flavoring with pepper and salt and a little 
minced parsley. 

Pour the whole over some squares of hot toast on a dish 
and serve at once. 

Eels, Fried. 

Cut your eels into pieces three inches long, dip the pieces 
into flour, egg over with a paste-brush, and throw them into 
some bread-crumbs; fry in hot lard as directed for fried soles. 

Stewed Eels, Sauce Matelote. 
Procure as large eels as possible, which cut into pieces three 
inches long, and put them into a stewpan, with an onion, a 
bouquet of two bay leaves, a sprig of thyme and parsley, six 
cloves, a blade of mace, a glass of sherry, and two of water; 
place the stewpan over a moderate fire, and let simmer about 
twenty minutes, or according to the size of the eels; when 
done, drain upon a cloth, dress them in pyramid upon a dish 
without a napkin, with a matelote sauce over, made as directed 
on page 99, but using the stock your eels have been cooked in 
to make the sauce, having previously well boiled it to extract all 
the fat. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 71 

Eels a la Tartare. 

Fry as directed above, and serve on some tartare sauce; 
or partly stew first, and, when cold, egg, bread-crumb, and 
broil gently. 

Spitchcocked Eels 
in some parts of England, are cooked with the skins on. They 
should be properly cleaned, and split down the back, and bone 
taken out, and cut into pieces of about four inches long; egg 
the inside, and throw over some bread-crumbs, in which have 
been mixed some chopped parsley, a little dried thyme, and 
some cayenne; place them in the oven, and whilst cooking baste 
them with butter in which some essence of anchovies has been 
mixed. The time they take cooking depends on the size, but 
may be known by the skin turning up. 

Conger Eel 

IS little appreciated in this country, although amongst the 
working-class of our neighbors, more particularly the French, 
it is an article of great consumption. If alive, its head should 
be cut off, and it should bleed as much as possible; but if dead, 
the pieces should be put into lukewarm water to disgorge 
previous to being cooked. The young fry are exceedingly 
good, and may be dressed like fresh-water eels. The large 
ones may be made into soup, and can also be cooked like 
sturgeon. 

Eels on the Spit, 

Take a very large eel, cut it into short pieces, and lard 
them on the back with thin strips of bacon. Place the pieces 
of eel for three hours in pickle made of oil, sliced onion, sprigs 
of parsley, salt, and bay leaves. On taking them out place the 
pieces on a long wooden skewer, separating them by thin 
slices of bread. Fasten the skewer to a spit and cook before 
the fire, basting from time to time with melted butter. 

With this dish should be served a sauce made in the follow- 
ing manner: — Mix together in a small enameled saucepan 
some vinegar, shallots, parsley, thyme, bay leaves, and a pinch 
of pepper. Let them soak for a short time, and then add 
some strong beef stock thickened with a little flour. Mix well 
and let it boil for a quarter of an hour. Pass the sauce 
through a fine strainer and serve in a sauce-boat. 

Flounders, Water Souchet. 

Procure four or six Thames flounders, trim and cut in halves ; 



V2 STANDARD COOKERY. 

put half a pint of water in a saucepan, with a Httle scraped 
horse-radish, a little pepper, salt, sugar and few sprigs of fresh 
parsley; place over the fire, boil a minute, then add the floun- 
ders, stew ten minutes, take them out and place in a dish with- 
out a napkin, reduce the liquor they were stewed in a little, 
pour over and serve. 

To fry flounders, trim them, and proceed precisely as di- 
rected for fried soles; three minutes are sufficient. 

Gurnets. 

Are best stuffed and baked. Stuff them as directed for 
haddocks, turn them round in the same manner, lay slices of 
bacon over, cut very thin, and bake half an hour or more (ac- 
cording to their size) in a hot oven; when done, dress upon a 
dish without a napkin, and have ready the onions in a stew- 
pan, with one of vinegar, place over the fire a couple of min- 
utes, add half a pint of melted butter, two tablespoonfuls of 
Harvey sauce, one of catsup, and two of water, reduce until 
rather thick, season with a little pepper, cut the fillets of a 
good anchovy into strips, put in the sauce, which pour round 
the fish, and serve. 

Boiled Gurnet. 

You may boil it either with or without the stuffing, in very 
salt water; it will require rather more than half an hour; 
serve with anchovy sauce separate. The remains are very 
good to re-warm. 

Haddock and Asparagus. 

Cut a large haddock into moderately thick slices and dip 
each into ^^^ beaten up with grated nutmeg; then cover with 
breadcrumbs and fry in butter till a light brown. Remove 
the tips from about fifty branches of asparagus, and boil the 
rest in salted water. Place the boiled asparagus in a stewpan 
with two ounces of butter, a couple of rusks, a blade of mace, 
and half a pint of clear stock. Then add the slices of fish just 
fried, and the asparagus tips, and let the whole stew for a 
quarter of an hour. The beaten yolk of an &gg and a little 
lemon juice are often added to this dish. 

A cheaper version may be made by using cabbage instead of 
asparagus. 

Dublin Bay Haddock. 

This is a fish which I can highly recommend, both for its 
firmness and lightness; it is excellent plain boiled, and served 
with a cream sauce, or any other fish sauce. But the better 



STANDARD COOKERY. 73 

plan is to cut four or five incisions upon each side of the fish, 
an inch deep, then put it into a deep dish, and cover well with 
salt, let it remain about two hours, then put into boiling water, 
to simmer from thirty to forty minutes, if a fish of five or six 
pounds in weight. Serve on a napkin garnished with plain 
boiled parsnips and parsley, with egg sauce in a boat. The 
common haddocks may be dressed precisely the same. 

Baked Haddock. 

Fill the interior of the fish with veal stulfing, sew it up with 
packthread, and truss it with the tail in its mouth, rub a piece 
of butter over the back, or egg and bread-crumb it over, set 
it on a baking-dish, which put in a warmish oven to bake; if 
a Dublin Bay haddock, it would take from three-quarters of 
an hour to an hour, but a common haddock would require 
but half an hour. The better plan is to run the point of a 
knife down to the backbone, from which, if the flesh parts 
easily, it is done; dress it upon a dish without a napkin, and 
serve with a Beyrout sauce, or any other. 

Halibut. 

This fish is rather coarse, but very surfeiting. It is best very 
fresh, and should be very thick and not in spawn. It may be 
either baked, fried, or sauted in oil, in which case the fillets 
should not be thicker than one inch. 

Herrings Broiled, Sauce Dijon. 

The delicacy of these fish prevent their being dressed in 
any other way than boiled or broiled; they certainly can be 
bread-crumbed and fried, but I prefer them dressed in the 
following way: 

Wipe them well with a cloth, and cut three incisions slant- 
wise upon each side, dip them in flour, and broil slowly over 
a moderate fire; when done, sprinkle a little salt over, dress 
them upon a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve the fol- 
lowing sauce in a boat: — Put eight tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter in a stewpan, with two of French mustard, or one of 
English, an ounce of fresh butter, and a little pepper and 
salt; when upon the point of boiling, serve. 

Herrings, Sauce Dijon. (Another Method.) 
Procure six fresh herrings, trim and score, dust with salt 
and pepper, roll in flour and grill in a very hot oven. When 
ready, place on a hot well-buttered dish and serve with a 
sauce prepared as follows: — 



74 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Put in a stewpan one ounce of butter, one small tablespoon- 
ful of flour, a little salt, pepper and a touch of cayenne, to- 
gether with half a pint of boiling milk. Place on fire and stir 
well, adding meanwhile one good teaspoonful of French mus- 
tard, the juice of a lemon and a teaspoonful of cream. (If 
no French mustard substitute with the same quantity of dis- 
solved English mustard.) When very hot serve either by 
pouring over the fish or separately in a sauce-boat, together 
with plain baked potatoes. A cheap dish but exquisite enough 
for a gourmet. 

John Dories, Boulogne Fashion. 

John Dories, though not very handsome, are very delicate 
eating; choose them from four to six pounds in weight, the 
thicker the better, and boil as directed for turbot ; one of the 
above size would require about three-quarters of an hour; if 
any remain, dress like turbot, or with caper sauce, etc. 

Mackerel 

are generally served plain boiled; put them in a kettle con- 
taining boiling water, well salted, let simmer nearly half an 
hour, take them up, drain and dish them upon a napkin; serve 
melted butter in a boat, with which you have mixed a table- 
spoonful of chopped fennel, boiling it a few minutes. 

Mackerel a la Maitre d'Hotel. 

Split the mackerel open at the back, making it quite flat, 
season with a little pepper and salt, and butter it all over, lay 
it upon a gridiron over a moderate fire, turning it when half 
done, for about a quarter of an hour, when place it upon a 
dish without a napkin ; then put six ounces of fresh butter in 
a stewpan, which place over a sharp fire until the butter be- 
comes black, but not burnt, when throw in about fifty leaves 
of chopped parsley, which fry crisp, and pour over the fish ; 
put three tablespoonfuls of common vinegar into the stewpan. 
which boil half a minute, season with pepper and salt, pour 
this also over the fish, which put into the oven five minutes, 
and serve very hot. 

To Stew Mackerel. 
Take off the heads, the fins, and tails, and, having opened 
the fish, and taken out all the hard roes, dry them with a 
cloth, and dredge them lightly with flour; place three or four 
of them in a stewpan with a lump of butter the size of a 
walnut, Xq each fish; put into a small bowl a teacupful of 



STANDARD COOKERY. 75 

water, a tablespoonful of finely-chopped onions, the same of 
chopped parsley, a blade or two of mace, a little pepper and 
salt, a tablespoonful of anchovy essence, and a small teacup- 
ful of ale or porter (if not bitter). Add a tablespoonful of 
grated bread-crust, not burnt, but a light brown ; pour all these 
ingredients over the fish, and let them stew gently for twenty 
minutes ; have ready the yolks of three eggs, well beaten, and 
when the fish is sufficiently done, take some of the gravy 
and mix gradually with the eggs, and pouring them on the 
fish, shake the stewpan a little over the fire to thicken the 
whole, but not to curdle the eggs; the soft roes added are an 
improvement; have ready more grated crust, and having 
placed the fish whole in the dish, shake a little of the grated 
crust over the whole, so as to make it of a handsome brown. 
The receipt requires to be carefully followed. If the gravy 
is too thick, more water may be added; also a glass of sherry, 
if liked. 

Baked Mackerel. 

Place two fresh mackerel in an enameled stewpan with two 
tablespoonfuls of cider, a minced onion, and a Httle nutmeg, 
parsley, pepper, and salt. Cover closely and cook gently for 
half an hour. Then add a cupful of white stock, preferably 
made of veal thickened with the yolk of an egg, a little flour 
and butter, and a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. Make 
hot again, then take out the fish carefully and place in a bak- 
ing dish. Strain the sauce, pour it over the fish, sprinkle well 
with bread-crumbs, and bake until lightly browned. 

This should be served in the dish in which it has been 
baked. 

Soyer Pike Quenelles or SoufHes. 

This method of employing the fish called pike or jack is 
unique. My grandfather was the inventor of this method, 
which is specially good for people suffering from dyspepsia, 
or delicate digestions. 

Method. — Half a pound of pike flesh free of bone and skin. 
Place in a mortar with one and a half ounces of salt, a tea- 
spoonful of white pepper, a good pinch of cayenne, half a 
small nutmeg, grated, one ounce of butter. Pound together 
for half an hour. Now introduce half a pound of panades. 
Pass through a hair sieve, or very fine wire sieve. Place all 
in a clear mortar and pound for five minutes. 

Previous to this, prepare one and a half pounds of beef 



76 STANDARD COOKERY. 

suet chopped fine without adding flour, and melt it in a double 
saucepan or bain marie, by quietly simmering (not boiling), 
taking care that no water touches it. Strain through muslin 
into a large bowl; when nearly cold whisk continuously until 
it is foamy like a beaten Q.gg. Introduce this in three portions, 
one at a time, into the mortar mentioned above. Do this 
quickly, each time breaking in the whole of a raw tgg, until 
the whole is perfectly smooth. 

As a means for securing a diversity and improvement 
a little chopped parsley, truffles, or mushrooms, according to 
taste can be introduced at this stage. 

Sprinkle a board heavily with flour and pour contents of 
the mortar on to this. Now roll flour and mixture into the 
size and shape of small sausages. 

Have ready a large stewpan with one gallon of boiling 
water, into which a good handful of salt has been thrown, 
and drop into this the quenelles, a dozen at a time. The 
quenelles will at first sink to the bottom; when they rise leave 
them one minute without boiling. Remove from the water 
with a fish-slice, strain on a napkin, and place on a dish. In 
this way they will keep for two or three days. 

Method of Serving the Above 

Vol ail Vent Soyer. Have one pint of brown sauce in a 
stewpan large enough to hold three quarts, add a few sliced 
mushrooms, a few slices of braised sweetbread or a few 
shrimps, or crayfish, or lobster, together with the juice of 
half a lemon, and bring to the boil. Add two tablespoonfuls 
of Madeira or sherry. If the sauce is too thin thicken it with 
a little arrowroot, so as to obtain a glossy sauce. Season to 
taste. 

Put half a dozen quenelles into the sauce and leave at the 
side of the stove to keep warm, but not to boil. Have your 
Vol au Vent or crouttes on a very hot entree-dish and one 
minute only before serving put the sauce containing the quen- 
elles on a full fire with the cover on, when the quenelles will 
swell in diameter to the size of a golf-ball. Pour at once 
in the croutte on dish, as the quality and success depend on 
quick serving. See that hot plates are on the table waiting 
for the dish to appear. This is most important. 

When using white sauce proceed in the same way as 
above. Dilute white sauce with boiling milk or white fish 
stock. If no fish stock, other white stock will do. 



STANDARD COOKERY. -jy 

The above entails a lot of work, but it is well worth doing, 
and having been once done comes easily afterwards. In 
Lent and other times of fasting, by omitting stock, etc., and 
using only fish, this is very nourishing and good and ac- 
ceptable to a rigid Catholic. 

The recipe given is for pike quenelles only, but any kind 
of fish can be used and is much superior to any other known 
method. 

Red Mullet en Papillote. 

Take a Soyer paper-bag, about ten inches by ten inches in 
size, and grease it well inside, top and bottom. 

Obtain three red mullet, season with pepper and salt, and 
place a little duxelle on both sides of the fishes. Place the 
fish in the bag, side by side, throw in one tablespoonful of 
tomato sauce, a few mushrooms (if obtainable) and a tea- 
spoonful of lemon juice. Close and seal the bag, insert on 
grid in the oven and bake for twenty-five minutes in a mod- 
erate heat (350° Fahr.). 

Cooked in this way and served with boiled potatoes these 
are luscious. 

Red Mullet a la Voisin. 

Trim and score two red mullet, season with salt and pepper 
and the juice of a lemon. Butter a dish and place the fish 
therein. 

Have ready a Portugaise made as follows: — Take half a 
shallot and fry in butter, long enough to warm through but 
not to color. Add to it four small tomatoes from which skin 
and pips have been removed and allow to simmer gently for 
about ten minutes. Put this mixture on top of the fish, sur- 
mounted by a few slices of mushroom, if procurable. 

Now grease a large piece of paper and cover over all. Put 
in oven for twenty minutes (about 350° Fahr.), remove the 
paper, squeeze over the juice of half a lemon, sprinkle lightly 
with chopped parsley and serve with plain baked potato. 

Red Mullets. 

Procure two red mullets, which place upon a strong dish, 
not too large, sprinkle a little chopped onions, parsley, a little 
pepper and salt, and a little salad-oil over, and put them into 
a warm oven for half an hour; then put half a tablespoonful 
of chopped onions in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of salad- 
oil, stir over a moderate fire until getting rather yellowish, 
then add a tablespoonful of sherry, half a pint of white sauce 



78 STANDARD COOKERY. 

or melted butter, with a little chopped parsley; reduce over 
a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until becoming rather thick; 
when the mullets are done, sauce over and serve. 

Red Mullets Saute in Butter. 

Put two ounces of butter in a pan ; when melted, put in one 
or two small mullets, and season with a teaspoonful of salt, 
half ditto of pepper, and the juice of half a lemon; set it on 
a slow fire and turn carefully ; when done, dish and serve 
plain, or with any of the sauces named in the former recipe. 

Perch 

do not grow to a very large size, four pounds being con- 
sidered a large one. When fresh, are reddish at the eyes 
and gills. These fish, having a great objection to part with 
their scales, should be scraped immediately they are dead, 
forming the fish into the shape of the letter S, and scraping 
with an oyster-knife; open the belly, take out the interior, pull 
away the gills, and wash well. When large, they are fre- 
quently boiled with the scales on, which are taken off after- 
wards much easier. 

Pike. 

A middling-sized one weighing about five pounds, would 
be best; when fresh, the eyes must be very transparent, the 
scales bluish, and not dry upon the back, or it would not clean 
well. The dressing is generally the making of the fish, as 
regards the approbation bestowed upon it. To clean them, 
have a sharp-pointed knife, put the point carefully under the 
scales (without piercing the skin) at the tail of the fish, pass 
the knife gently up the back to the head, dividing the scales 
from the skin carefully; you may then take off the whole of 
the scales in one piece (should this process appear too difficult, 
they may be scraped). 

Clean as directed above, stuff the interior as directed for 
haddocks, only adding some fillets of anchovies and chopped 
lemon-peel with it; curl round and put in a baking-dish, spread 
a little butter all over, put in a moderate oven; when about 
half done egg over with a paste-brush, and sprinkle bread- 
crumbs upon it; a middling-sized pike will take about an hour; 
but that according to the size and the heat of the oven; when 
done, dress upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce round 
as directed for baked haddock. 

Pike, Sauce Matelote. 

Cppk ^ pike exactly as in the last, dress it upon a dish 



STANDARD COOKERY. 79 

without a napkin, and sauce with a matelote sauce over, made 
as directed on page 99. 

This fish may also be served with caper sauce, as directed 
for the skate; the smaller ones are the best; the remains of 
a pike placed in the oven the next day, with a cover over it 
and a little more sauce added, are very nice. 

Pike with Cream. 

Cut three pounds of pike into slices, and place these in a 
baking dish, together with five ounces of butter, a pint of sour 
cream, two onions cut into thick slices, two or three bay 
leaves, and a little salt. Place in a quick oven and bake for 
twenty minutes, basting with the mixture, and after each bast- 
ing sprinkle with grated bread-crumbs. Immediately before 
serving remove the slices of onion and the bay leaves, and 
pour over the fish a little very hot stock and a squeeze of 
lemon juice. 

Any other fresh fish may be prepared in the same way. 

Boiled Salmon 
is only good by putting salmon in boiling water with suffi- 
cient salt, i.e., quarter of a pound of salt to a gallon of water. 
Bring to boil and let simmer for one hour and a quarter. 
This for a fish twelve pounds in weight. 

Another method is to cook in a Soyer paper-bag with one 
quart of cold water and three ounces of salt in oven for one 
hour with moderate heat — 300° Fahr. 

Hollandaise and white sauce, also shrimp sauce or lobster 
sauce are the best for this kind of salmon. 
Broiled Salmon. 

The fish to be broiled should be cut in slices of about one 
to one and a half inches in thickness. Sprinkle with salt 
and roll in clarified butter or oil, grill over a brisk fire for 
about twenty-five minutes. 

Maitre d'Hotel or anchovy butter makes excellent sauces 
for broiled salmon. 

Kedgeree of Salmon. 

This is composed of one pound of boiled salmon, cut into 
small pieces. Remove the skin and bones; three or four hard- 
boiled eggs cut into small pieces; one pound of well-boiled 
pilaff rice ; and three-quarters of a pint of Bechamel flavored 
with a small amount of curry. 

Mix together and fill into a well-buttered mold which 
should then be stood in a stewpan of boiling water. After 



8o STANDARD COOKERY. 

covering the top of mold with a piece of paper, place the 
stewpan with its contents in a moderate oven for fifteen min- 
utes. It is then ready to serve by turning out of mold on 
to a hot dish. 

Salmon Cutlets or Cotellettes de Saumon. 

Make ready some forcemeat for salmon of a quantity suffi- 
cient for the number of cutlets to be made and rub through 
a coarse sieve. 

Procure some molds shaped like cutlets, well butter the 
sides and bottom and fill with a layer half an inch thick of 
forcemeat. 

Now fill the molds to within a little of their brims, with a 
cold Salpicon of mushrooms and truffles, thickened by means 
of sauce and cover all with a further layer of forcemeat. 

Place the molds in a hot oven for six minutes in order 
to poach the cutlets. Then turn out the molds, and sprinkle 
the cutlets with a mixture of e^gg and bread-crumbs which 
may then be fried in clarified butter. 

When cooked, arrange the cutlets round a dish, garnish 
with fried parsley and serve. Shrimp sauce, or puree of green 
peas or celery are excellent with this dish. 

Coulibiac de Saumon. 

Procure two pounds of brioche paste, unsweetened. Take 
one and a half pounds of small salmon collops and stiffen in 
butter. Also prepare two or three ounces of mushrooms, to- 
gether with an onion chopped small (both to be fried in but- 
ter) ; half a pound of semolina or rice cooked in consomme, 
two hard-boiled eggs chopped small ; one pound of vesiga 
chopped up and cooked in consomme. To cook the vesiga 
take two and a half ounces of dried vesiga, soak in cold water 
for four hours, after which cook for three and a half hours 
in white consomme. Roll out the brioche paste into strips 
twelve inches long, eight inches wide and a quarter of an inch 
thick. On these spread, successively, layers of semolina (or 
rice), collops of salmon, chopped vesiga, eggs, mushrooms and 
onion, and lastly a layer of semolina (or rice). Moisten the 
edges of the paste and bring the two ends together with the 
above layers of material within. Then pinch the remaining 
edges together and turn over the join just made. Over all put 
another strip of paste and set the paste on a baking-tin to 
rise for about forty-five minutes. 

Now spread a thin coating of melted butter over the top, 



STANDARD COOKERY. 8i 

sprinkle with raspings and make two holes in the top of the 
paste to allow the vapors to escape. (This can be done by 
curling round the finger two thin pieces of cardboard or stiff 
paper and inserting same in the paste, like small chimneys.) 
Bake in a moderate oven for one hour. 

Stewed Salmon. 

Take three pounds of fresh salmon, and after carefully 
scaling and washing, lard the fish finely and place it in a 
stewpan, with a pint of clear stock, two carrots, and two 
onions minced, a little thyme, three bay leaves, a pinch of 
grated nutmeg, a few peppercorns and salt to taste. Simmer 
very gently for about two hours and then remove the fish. 
Strain the sauce — carefully removing any fat — and reduce 
it to a glaze, which should be poured over the fish. 

The salmon is usually served upon a puree of green peas, 
asparagus, or any other vegetable that is preferred. 

Salmon Croquettes. 

Tinned fish may be used for this dish, though of course 
fresh salmon is better. 

Heat half a pint of good white stock and stir into it the 
yolks of two eggs, half an ounce of butter, the juice of an 
onion, a little parsley, pepper and salt. Remove the bones 
and skin from the salmon, chop finely, and stir sufficient into 
the stock to make a moderately stiff paste. When the mix- 
ture is cool, make it into croquettes which should be dipped 
in egg and bread-crumbs and fried until a golden brown color. 
Drain all fat carefully from them and serve with a border of 
parsley. Tartare sauce is often served with this dish. 
Baked Shad. 

Split open the fish and stuff with a forcemeat made of its 
roe, some mushrooms, bread-crumbs, butter, parsley, thyme and 
bay leaf, chopped and thoroughly mixed together. Bind or 
sew up the fish and bake it in an earthenware dish well but- 
tered for half an hour, basting with white stock to which 
has been added lemon juice, sherry, and onion. 
Coulibiac of Salmon. 

Have ready two pounds of ordinary brioche paste. Stiffen 
in butter one and a half pounds of small salmon collops, and 
prepare three ounces of mushrooms and one chopped onion 
(both of which should be fried in butter), half pound of 
cooked semolina, two hard-boiled eggs chopped, and one pound 
of vesiga roughly chopped and cooked in consomme. 



82 STANDARD COOKERY. 

For this weight of cooked vesiga about two and a half 
ounces of dried vesiga will be needed, which should be soaked 
in cold water for four hours, and then cooked for three and 
half hours in white consomme or water. Roll the brioche 
paste into rectangles twelve inches long and eight inches wide, 
and spread on in successive layers the semolina, the collops 
of salmon, the chopped vesiga, the eggs, the mushrooms, and 
the onion, and finish with a layer of semolina. Moisten the 
edges of the paste and draw the longest ends of it towards 
each other over the layers of garnish, and join so as to en- 
close all. 

Place the coulibiac thus formed on a baking-tray, taking 
care that the joined parts of the paste are underneath. 

Set the paste to rise for forty-five minutes, sprinkle some 
melted butter with the coulibiac, sprinkle with fine raspings, 
make a slit in the top for the escape of vapor, and bake in a 
moderate oven for one hour. Fill the coulibiac with freshly 
melted butter when withdrawing it from the oven. 

Darne de Saumon a Chambord. 

Take a piece or " darne " of salmon cut from the middle 
of the fish, of a size sufficient for the number of people it is 
intended for. 

Moisten in the proportion of two-thirds of good red wine 
and one-third of fish stock, of a quantity sufficient to cover 
no more than two-thirds of the depth of the darne. Bring 
to the boil, then set to braise gently, and glaze the darne at 
the last moment. Garnish with quenelles of truffled force- 
meat for fish, molded with a spoon; truffles fashioned like 
olives; pieces of milt dipped in Villeroy sauce, treated 
a I'Anglaise and fried when about to dish up: small gudgeon 
or smelts similarly to the milt, and trussed crayfish cooked in 
court-bouillon. 

The sauce is a Genevoise made from the reduced cooking 
liquor of the darne. 

Dish up by surrounding the darne with the garnishes, ar- 
ranging them tastefully and pierce with two hatelets each 
garnished with a small truffle, an ornamental quenelle and a 
crayfish. 

The sauce to be served separately. 

Salmon a la Daumont. 

Poach the darne in salt water. 

Dish up by surrounding the darne with medium-seized mush- 



STANDARD COOKERY. 83 

rooms stewed in butter and garnished with shrimps and a few 
tablespoonfuls of Nantua sauce ; a small round quenelles 
of mousseline forcemeat for fish, decorated with truffles, and 
some slices of milt treated a I'Anglaisc, and fried when about 
to dish up. Serve Nantua sauce separately. 

Salmon Slices a LucuUus. 

Skin one side of the slice, lard it with truffles, and braise 
it in Chablis. 

Garnish with small shrimp or salmon patties, small mous- 
selines of oysters, poached in dariole-molds. 

The sauce should consist of the braising liquor of the darne 
finished by means of ordinary and shrimp butter in equal quan- 
tities. 'To be served separately. 

Salmon Slices a Nesselrode. 

Remove all bones. Stuff with raw lobster forcemeat stif- 
fened by means of a little whiting forcemeat. Line a well- 
buttered, round, raised-pie mold with a thin layer of raised- 
pie paste (this is made with three-quarters of a pound of 
flour, three ounces of lard, one tgg, and a little lukewarm 
water), prepared in advance and made rather stiff. Garnish 
the inside of the pie with thin slices of bacon and place the 
fish upright in it. Cover the pie with a layer of the paste, 
joining the edges with those of the lining, make a slit in the 
top for vapor to escape, and bake in a hot oven. When the 
pie is almost baked, pierce it with a needle; if withdrawn 
without any of the stuffing adhering to it, the pie will be 
ready to be taken out of the oven. Now turn it upside down 
in order to drain away the liquid fats, but do not let it drop 
from the mold. Then put it on a dish and remove the mold. 
Break the crust at the dining-table. 

Serve an American sauce, which should be prepared from 
the remains of the lobsters used in making the mousse, finished 
with cream, and garnished with fine oysters, poached when 
about to dish up. 

Salmon Slice a Royale. 

Braise the fish in Chablis. 

Garnish with small quenelles of forcemeat for fish, small 
mushrooms, slices of truffle, and little balls of potato, raised 
by a large round spoon cutter and cooked a I'Anglaise. 

'Serve Normande sauce separtely. 

Mousseline Alexandra. 

Make a forcemeat of salmon, mold the quenelles and place 



84 STANDARD COOKERY. 

them separately in buttered saucepan. Put a small thin slice 
of salmon on each, and poach them in a very moderate oven, 
keeping the lid on the pan. 

Drain on a napkin, arrange them on a dish, and put a shce 
of truffle upon each slice of salmon, and coat with Mornay 
sauce. 

Garnish v^ith small asparagus-heads just before dishing up. 

Cold Salmon. 

Salmon which is intended to be served cold, should either 
be cooked whole or in large pieces, in plain salted water, and 
cooled in the same water. Salmon cooked whole has a better 
flavor and not so dry as when cut in pieces, though the latter 
way tends to better appearance. 

In dishing cold salmon remove the skin so that the fish 
may be easily decorated, though gourmets will always prefer 
salmon served in its natural state. 

To decorate, use pieces of cucumber, anchovy fillets, capers, 
slices of tomato and curled-leaf parsley. 

Dame de Saumon a la Royale. 

Drain and dry the salmon, remove the skin from one side, 
and coat the bared fillets with a layer of a preparation of 
mousse de saumon, putting more over the middle than the 
sides. Coat the layer of mousse with mayonnaise sauce thick- 
ened with fish jelly and leave to set. 

Upon the dish which is to be sent to the table put some clear 
fish jelly to set; then place the salmon on this jelly and sur- 
round it with a border of Montpellier butter, using a piping- 
bag. Decorate the center with truffles, and encircle it with the 
royale crowns made from anchovy fillets. 

Saumon Froid en Bellevue. 

Skin the salmon, set the piece upright upon the belly side, 
and decorate the fillets with pieces of truffles, poached white 
of egg, chervil leaves, and tarragon. 

Coat the garnish with a little melted fish aspic so as to 
fix it. Then sprinkle the piece several times with melted aspic 
jelly, so as to cover it with a transparent veil. Place the fish 
prepared in a glass dish shaped to the fish and pour over 
enough clear melted jelly to fill the dish, and serve. 

Salmon Froid a la Norvegienne. 

Skin and decorate the salmon or darne and glaze it with 
aspic jelly. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 85 

Let a coating of jelly set upon the bottom of the dish. 
Upon this jelly place a cushion of carved rice the same shape 
as the fish. Set the fish decorated and glazed upon this cush- 
ion, then place on a row of fine prawns cleared of their ab- 
dominal shell. 

Surround with a garnish of small cucumber slices garnished 
dome-fashion with a puree of smoked salmon ; hard-boiled 
eggs glazed with aspic, small tomatoes or halved ones peeled, 
stuck with a bit of parsley stalk, and small barquettes of 
cooked and pickled beetroot, garnished with shrimps' tails co- 
hered with mayonnaise. 

Serve mayonnaise sauce separately. 

Medallion de Saumon. 

Cut some small slices half an inch thick, from a fillet of 
salmon. Arrange them on a buttered tray; poach and dry 
in a moderate oven, then cool them. Trim them neatly with 
an even cutter either round or oval. Coat them, according 
to their purpose, either with mayonnaise sauce thickened with 
jelly, or a white pink or green chaudfroid sauce. Decorate 
it according to fancy and glaze with cold melted aspic jelly. 

Serve with a cold sauce. 

Salmon Mayonnaise. 

Garnish the bottom of a salad-bowl with moderately sea- 
soned lettuce. Cover with cold, cooked and flaked salmon, 
thoroughly freed from all skin and bones. 

Coat with mayonnaise sauce and decorate with anchovy 
fillets, capers, stoned olives, small slices or quarters of hard- 
boiled eggs, and small hearts of lettuce. 

Salade de Saumon. 

This is prepared in the same way as the above. The deco- 
rating garnish is placed with the salmon and the whole is 
seasoned in precisely the same way as an ordinary salad, add- 
ing two tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise in mixing up. 

Skate, 

Procure two or three slices, tie them with string to keep 
the shape in boiling, put them into a kettle of boiling water, 
in which you have put a good handful of salt; boil gently 
about twenty minutes (have ready also a piece of the liver, 
which boil with them) ; when done, drain well, and put them 
upon a dish without a napkin; put three parts of a pint of 
melted butter in a stewpan, place it upon the fire, and when 
quite hot add a wineglassful of capers, sauce over, and serve. 



86 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Skate au Beurre Noir. 

Boil a piece of skate as directed in the last; when done, 
drain it well, put it upon a dish without a napkin, and proceed 
exactly as directed for mackerel. 

Skate may also be served upon a napkin, with a boat of 
well-seasoned melted butter, to which you have added a spoon- 
ful of Harvey sauce and one of anchovy. 

To Fry Smelts. 
Dry them in a cloth and dip them in flour; then have half 
an ounce of butter or clear fat melted in a bowl, into which 
break the yolk of two eggs, with which rub the smelts over 
with a brush, dip them in bread-crumbs, fry in very hot lard, 
dress them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with 
shrimp sauce in a boat. 

Stuffed Smelts. 

Make a forcemeat of minced oysters, mushrooms, bread- 
crumbs and butter, with herbs and seasoning to taste, and with 
this stuff a dozen and a half large smelts from which the 
bones have previously been removed. Lay them in a baking 
dish and pour over them half a pint of good white stock or 
milk with an ounce of butter, the juice of a lemon, and a 
little minced onion. Bake for half an hour and garnish with 
parsley before serving. 

* Soles, Fried. 

Have about four pounds of lard or clean fat in a small 
fish-kettle, which place over a moderate fire, cut off the fins 
of the sole, and dip it into flour, shake part of the flour off, 
have an egg well beaten upon a plate, with which brush the 
fish all over, and cover it with bread-crumbs ; ascertain if the 
lard is hot, by throwing in a few bread-crumbs ; it will hiss 
if sufficiently hot, put in the fish, which will require nearly ten 
minutes' cooking, and ought to be perfectly crisp, drain it on 
a cloth, dish upon a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve 
shrimp sauce in a boat. 

The above quantity of lard or fat, if carefully used and not 
burnt, would do for several occasions, by straining it off each 
time after using. All kinds of fish, such as eels, smelts, whit- 
ings, flounders, perch, gudgeons, etc., are fried precisely in the 
same manner, 

* The American Flounder or Fluke is the same as the English Sole. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 87 

Soles, Saute in Oil. 
Trim the fish well, dip it into a couple of eggs, well beaten, 
put six tablespoonfuls of salad-oil in a saucepan, place it over 
the fire, and when quite hot put in your sole, let it remain five 
minutes, turn over, and saute upon the other side ; ten or 
twelve minutes will cook it, according to the size; serve upon 
a napkin without sauce; they are excellent cold. 

Sole a la Meuniere. 

Cut the fins off a sole, and make four incisions across it 
upon each side with a knife, then rub half a tablespoonful of 
salt and chopped onions well into it, dip in flour, and broil it 
over a slow fire; also have ready two ounces of fresh butter, 
mixed with the juice of a lemon, and a little cayenne which 
rub over the sole, previously laid in a hot dish, without a 
napkin, turn the fish over once or twice, put it in the oven a 
minute, and serve very hot. 

Soles Aux Fines Herbes. 

Put a spoonful of chopped shallots into a saucepan, with 
a glass of sherry and an ounce of butter, place the sole in, 
pour nearly half a pint of melted butter over it, or four 
spoonfuls of brown gravy or water, upon which sprinkle some 
chopped parsley, place it in a moderate oven for half an hour, 
take the sole out of the pan, dress upon a dish without a nap- 
kin, reduce the sauce that is in the pan over a sharp fire, 
add a little Harvey sauce and essence of anchovy, pour over 
•the sole, and serve. 

Soles may also be plain boiled, using the same precautions 
as directed for turbot, and serve without a napkin, and a cream 
sauce poured over; or it may be served vipon a napkin gar- 
nished with parsley, and a little shrimp sauce, or plain melted 
butter, in a boat. 

Plain Soles. 

Soles may be served whole or filleted, and a large number 
of recipes given for the whole fish may be adapted to its 
fillets. 

As a rule, the fillets are more frequently found upon the 
menu, as they dish more elegantly, and are more easily served 
than the whole fish. 

Sole Arlesienne. 

Trim the sole, put it in a deep earthenware dish, the bottom 
of which should be well-buttered, pour two tablespoonfuls of 
fumet over it and poach gently. 



88 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Send it to the table with a plate containing separate heaps 
of one finely-chopped onion, a little powdered thyme and two 
finely-crushed biscottes. 

Place the dish on a chafer, and taking off the sole, raise 
the fillets therefrom, and place them between two hot plates. 
Now add to the cooking liquor of the sole the chopped onion, 
which leave to cook for a few moments the powdered thyme 
and a sufficient quantity of the biscotte raspings to allow of 
thickening the whole. At the last moment add six raw oys- 
ters and one ounce of butter divided into small pieces. 

As soon as the oysters are stiff return the fillets of sole to 
the dish, sprinkle with the sauce, and then serve them very 
hot. 

Remark: — The sole is always laid on the dish with its 
opened side undermost. 

Sole Momay. 
Lay the sole on a buttered dish ; sprinkle a little fish fumet 
over it, and add half an ounce of butter divided into small 
pieces. Poach gently. Coat the bottom of the dish with 
Mornay sauce; drain the fish, lay it on the prepared dish; 
cover it with the same sauce ; sprinkle with grated Gruyere 
and Parmesan and put in a very hot oven and gratin. 

Sole Provengaux. 

Poach the sole in fish fumet and butter, in the same way 
as the preceding recipe ; drain it, and place on a dish, cover 
with Chablis sauce, sprinkle liberally with grated cheese and 
gratin quickly. 

Sole Colbert. 

On the upper side of the fish separate the fillets from the 
spine, and break the latter in several pieces. Dip the sole in 
milk, roll it in flour; treat it a I'Anglaisc, and roll the separ- 
ated fillets back a little, so that they may be quite free from 
bones. 

Fry ; drain on a piece of linen, remove the bones, and fill 
the resulting space with butter d la Maitre d'Hotel. 

Serve the sole on a folded serviette very hot. 

Sole a la Daumont. 

Bone the sole. Garnish the inside with whiting forcemeat 
finished with shrimp butter and re-arrange the fillets to give 
a natural and untouched appearance to the fish. 

Poach on a buttered dish with one-sixth pint of white 
wine, the same quantity of the cooking-liquor of mushrooms 



STANDARD COOKERY. 89 

and one ounce of butter divided into small lumps. Drain 
and dish the sole, and cover it with vin blanc sauce. Place 
around it four mushrooms stewed in butter and j};arnished 
with shrimps in Nantua sauce ; six small round quenelles of 
whiting forcemeat with cream, decked with truffles. 

Sole Duglere. 

Put the sole in a buttered dish with one and a half ounces 
of chopped onion, half a pound of peeled tomatoes (pips must 
be removed), a little roughly chopped parsley, a pinch of 
salt, a little pepper, and six tablespoonfuls of white wine. 

Set to poach gently and dish the sole. Reduce the cooking 
liquor; thicken it with two tablespoonfuls of Bechamel sauce; 
complete with one ounce of butter and a few drops of lemon 
juice, and cover the fish with this sauce. 

Sole Grillee. 

Season the sole ; sprinkle on some oil, and grill the fish 
gently. Serve it, garnished with slices of lemon, on a very 
hot dish. 

Sole Grille a TAmericaine. 

This sole may be either grilled or poached, almost dry, in 
butter and lemon juice. It may also be prepared in fillets. 
Serve it on a very hot dish and surround it at the last mo- 
ment with twelve oysters poached in a little boiling Harvey 
sauce. 

Cover the sole immediately with very hot fried bread- 
crumbs and a pinch of chopped parsley. 
Sole Fermiere. 

Place the sole on a buttered dish with a few herbs. Add a 
gill of good red wine and poach gently with the lid on. Dish 
up; strain the cooking liquor, and reduce it to half; thicken it 
with two tablespoonfuls of white sauce and finish the sauce 
with one ounce of butter. 

Surround the sole with a border of mushrooms sliced raw 
and tossed in butter. Pour the prepared sauce over the sole 
and set to glaze quickly. 

Sole Hollandaise. 

Break the spine of the sole by folding it over in several 
places. Place the fish in a deep dish; cover it with slightly 
salted water; set to boil and then poach gently for fifteen 
minutes with the lid on. Drain and dish on a napkin with 
green parsley all round. Serve at the same time some plainly 
boiled potatoes, and some melted butter. 



90 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Sole Florentine. 
Poach the sole in a fish fumet and butter. Spread a layer 
of shredded spinach, stewed in butter, on the bottom of the 
dish, place the sole thereon; cover it with Mornay sauce; 
sprinkle with a little grated cheese, and set to glaze quickly 
in the oven, or at a salamander. 

Sole au Gratin. 

Partly separate the fillets from the bones on the upper side 
of the fish. Season with pepper, salt and a little butter. 
Place the sole on a well-buttered gratin dish, on the bottom 
of which a pinch of parsley has been sprinkled, together with 
one or two tablespoonfuls of Duxelle sauce ; not too thick. 

Place six cooked mushrooms on the sole and surround it 
with one or two raw mushrooms cut into thin slices. Add 
two tablespoonfuls of white wine; cover the sole with Duxelle 
sauce, one tablespoonful of Parmesan cheese, sprinkle with 
fine raspings followed my melted butter, and set to gratin. 

When ready, sprinkle a few drops of lemon juice and a 
pinch of chopped parsley upon it and serve at once. 

Sole Sur Le Plat. 

Separate the fillets from the bones on the upper side, and 
slip a piece of butter under each fillet. 

Place the sole on a well-buttered dish, moisten with one 
gill of the cooking-liquor of fish, adding a few drops of lemon 
juice. Cook in the oven until the liquor has acquired by re- 
duction the consistency of a thick sauce which covers the sole 
in a glossy coat. 

Sole Ambassadeur. 

Poach the sole in white wine and one ounce of butter cut 
into small pieces. Drain the sole and dish it, surrounding it 
with quenelles of whiting forcemeat, poached oysters, six 
small cooked and white mushrooms, four small truffles turned 
to the shape of olives. 

Cover the sole and garnish with a Normande sauce, finished 
with a teaspoonful of cream. 

Sole Portugaise. 

Poach the sole in lemon juice and the cooking-liquor of 
fish. Drain, dish and surround with a garnish of two medium- 
sized skinned tomatoes, minced, cooked in butter, combined 
with minced and cooked mushrooms, and a large pinch of 
chopped shallots. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 



91 



Coat the sole with white wine sauce. Set to glaze, sprinkle 
the garnish with a pinch of chopped parsley when taking the 
sole from the oven, and serve. 

Fish on the Plate. 

Place in a shallow" earthenware cooking vessel a little but- 
ter, some parsley, shallots and mushrooms, all finely minced, 
with a little pepper and salt. Upon this place a sole previously 
cleaned and skinned, and cover it with more butter and season- 
ing. Add a glass of white wine or a dessertspoonful of brandy 
and a little good white stock. Place the cover on the cook- 
ing vessel and, if practicable, adopt the French method of 
piling glowing coal on the top of the vessel in order that the 
fish may be be equally heated from all sides. When suffi- 
ciently cooked most of the sauce will be absorbed by the fish. 

In France this dish is often served in the vessel in which 
it has been cooked; but in any case it should be brought to 
the table as hot as possible. 

Economical Mode of Cooking Sturgeon. 

Take a piece of sturgeon about two pounds in weight and 
place it beneath a piece of meat which is to be baked on a 
stand in a dish ; with the sturgeon put a little water, salt, 
pepper, etc., and a little chopped shallot may be used; you 
can also put potatoes round it. Peas, if in season, are a good 
accompaniment, with melted butter. 

To Roast Sturgeon. 

Take the tail part, skin and bone it; fill the part where the 
bone comes from with some stuffing, as for a fillet of veal; 
put butter and paper round it, and tie it up like a fillet of veal; 
roast, and serve it with melted butter and gravy. 

They may be cooked precisely as veal, in large or small 
pieces. 

Stewed Tench. 

Put two onions, a carrot, and turnip, cut in slices, into 
a stewpan, or very small fish-kettle, with a good bouquet of 
parsley, a few sprigs of thyme, one bay-leaf, six cloves, a 
blade of mace, a little salt and pepper, and two glasses of 
sherry; lay your tench over (it will require four for a dish, 
and they may be either cooked whole, or each one cut into 
two or three pieces), add a pint of water, cover down close, 
and stew rather gently over a slow fire for about half an 
hour; take them out, drain upon a cloth, dress upon a dish 



92 STANDARD COOKERY. 

without a napkin, and pour a sauce over, made as directed 
for sauce matelote, cream sauce, or Beyrout. 

Tench with Anchovy Butter. 
Cook the tench as in the last, but they may be plain boiled 
in salt and water; dress upon a dish without a napkin, then put 
six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with one of milk; 
place it upon the fire, and, when upon the point of boiling, 
add an ounce of anchovy butter ; shake it round over the fire, 
until the butter is melted, when sauce over and serve. 

Salmon Trout. 
In its many preparations salmon-trout may be replaced by 
salmon, and all recipes relating to the former may be adapted 
to the latter. As its size is less than the salmon's, it is very 
rarely cut into slices, being usually served whole. 

Truite a la Cambaceres. 

Select a trout; clean it and remove its gills without opening 
it in the region of the belly. Skin it on one side, starting 
at a distance of one inch from the head and finishing with 
two and a half inches from the tail. Place on cut truffles 
and the red part only of carrots, cut into rods and previously 
cooked. 

Spread a napkin, lay the trout, belly under, upon it, and 
with a sharp knife separate the two fillets from the bones, be- 
ginning at the head and proceeding straight down to the tail. 

The spine being thus liberated, sever it at both ends, and 
withdraw it, together with all the adhering ventral bones. 
The intestines are then removed and the inside of the fish is 
well cleaned, the fillets are seasoned on their insides, and the 
trout is stufifed with a mousseline forcemeat of lobster. The 
two fillets are then drawn together and covered with thin slices 
of bacon and laid on the drainer of the fish-kettle and braised 
in Chablis. 

When the fish is done, remove the slices of bacon, glaze, 
and dish it up. Surround it with alternate heaps of mush- 
rooms tossed in butter and shrimps. 

Serve separately a Bechamel sauce, combined with the brals- 
ing-liquor of the trout, strained and reduced and finished with 
anchovy butter. 

Preparation de la Mousse de Tomates. 
This mousse is really a bavarois without sugar. Cook two 
pounds of tomato (cleared of skin and seeds and roughly 



STANDARD COOKERY. 93 

chopped) in two ounces of butter. When the pulp is well 
mixed with the butter add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce 
Bechamel thickened with ten leaves of gelatine per quart of 
the sauce. 

Rub through sieve; and add to the preparation when cold, 
half of its volume of whipped cream. It is better not to whip 
the cream well, say, not more than half. Season to taste with 
lemon-juice, and if necessary a little salt and cayenne. 

Crevettes Marie. 
Prepare a trout mousse, mold it in egg-molds, and garnish 
the center with trimmed prawns* tails. Let the mousses set; 
then turn them out of the molds and lay in a deep entree-dish. 
Between each place a few prawns, the tails of which should 
be shelled. Cover the whole, slowly, with some good half- 
melted jelly, add a few sprigs of chervil, and fill up the dish 
with jelly, so as to completely cover the mousses. 

Trout 

have different names in various parts of Great Britain, but 
there is the common trout, the white trout, and the sea trout; 
the white trout never grows very large, but the sea trout does, 
and is of a very fine flavor. 

River Trout, when fresh, have the most beautiful skin 
imaginable, the golden and sometimes silvery tint of which 
makes me term it the sister fish of the red (sea) mullet. 
Should the gills be pink instead of red, and the skin dry 
(which is frequently the case on the second day), they may 
still be eatable, but their succulence goes with their beauty. 
Clean them as directed for salmon. 

Trout a la Twickenham. 

When you have cleaned your trout, put them into a kettle 
of boiling water to which you have added a good handful 
of salt, and a wineglassful of vinegar; boil gently about twenty 
minutes, or according to their size, dress upon a napkin, and 
serve melted butter, into which you have put a tablespoonful 
of chopped gherkins, two sprigs of chopped parsley, salt and 
pepper, in a boat. 

The remains of trout, salmon, or mackerel, are excellent 
pickled : — Put three onions in slices in a stewpan, with two 
ounces of butter, one turnip, a bouquet of parsley, thyme, and 
bayleaf, pass them five minutes over the fire, add a pint of 
water, and a pint of vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of salt and one 
of pepper, boil until the onions are tender, then strain it through 



94 STANDARD COOKERY. 

a sieve over the fish; it will keep some time if required, and 
then do to pickle more fish by boiling over again. 

Trout a la Burton. 

Boil the trout as in the last; then put half a pint of melted 
butter in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of cream, place 
it upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling add a 
liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a tablespoonful of 
cream (dress the fish upon a dish without a napkin), put two 
ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, and the juice of a lemon 
into the sauce; shake round over the fire, but do not let it 
boil ; sauce over the fish, sprinkle some chopped parsley and 
serve. 

Stuffed Trout. 

Place in an enameled saucepan a pint of white wine vinegar, 
a quart of water, one onion, parsnip and carrot sliced, a heart 
of celery with a little thyme, parsley, and salt, two ounces 
of butter and two or three bay leaves. Reduce these ingre- 
dients to a strong broth by cooking rapidly over a quick fire, 
and then strain and put aside to cool. Now make a forcemeat 
of six small mushrooms, two ounces of fresh trufiies, a little 
minced herbs, and sufficient breadcrumb and butter, and with 
these stuff a large trout previously well scaled and washed. 
Tie it up and simmer gently for a quarter of an hour in the 
broth. Then remove it, wipe off any moisture, dip first in 
beaten egg and then in breadcrumbs, and fry thoroughly. 
Freshly-made tomato sauce is a good adjunct to this dish. 

Almost any other fresh fish may be prepared in the same way. 

Tunny. 

They are exceedingly good salted, or pickled like salmon, 
which it resembles in flavor when thus prepared; when raw, 
its flesh is very red, but turns pale in boiling. The best way 
to cook it when fresh is to cut it in slices, and proceed as with 
salmon. 

Turbot. 

To cook it, cut an incision in the back, rub it well with a 
good handful of salt, and then with the juice of a lemon; set 
it in a turbot kettle, well covered with cold water, in which 
you have put a good handful of salt; place it over the fire, 
and as soon as boiling, put it at the side (where it must not 
be allowed to more than simmer very slowly, or the fish would 
have a very unsightly appearance). A turbot of ten pounds 
weight will take about an hour to cook after it has boiled 



STANDARD COOKERY. 95 

(but, to be certain, ascertain whether the flesh will leave 
the bone easily) ; take it out of the water, let it remain a 
minute upon the drainer, and serve upon a napkin, with a few 
sprigs of fresh parsley round, and lobster sauce, or shrimp 
sauce, in a boat. 

Turbot, a la Frangaise. 

Boil your turbot as in the last, but dress it upon a dish 
without a napkin, sauce over with a thick caper sauce (having 
made a border of small new potatoes), sprinkle a few capers 
over the fish, and serve. 

Turbot a la Creme 

is made from the remains of a turbot left from a previous 
dinner; pick all the flesh from the bones, which warm in salt 
and water, and have ready the following sauce : — Put one 
ounce of flour into a stewpan, to which add by degrees a quart 
of milk, mixing it very smoothly; then add two peeled shallots, 
a bouquet of parsley, a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme tied 
together, a little grated nutmeg, a teaspoonful of salt, and a 
quarter ditto of pepper; place it over the fire, stirring until 
it forms a thickish sauce; then take it from the fire, stir in a 
quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and pass it through a 
sieve; lay a little of it upon the bottom of a convenient-sized 
dish, then a layer of the fish, season lightly with a little white 
pepper and salt, then another layer of sauce, proceeding thus 
until the fish is all used, finishing with sauce; sprinkle a few 
breadcrumbs over, and put it into a warm oven half an hour, 
brown with the salamander, and serve upon the dish it is baked 
on. Any remains of boiled fish may be dressed the same way. 

Stewed Turbot. 

Place three or four pounds of turbot in a stewpan with two 
ounces of butter, a glass of marsala or port wine, and a small 
bunch of herbs. To this add a small tumblerful of water, or 
fish stock if procurable. Sprinkle with pepper and salt, place 
a sheet of buttered paper over the whole and cook very slowly 
in the oven or on the hob. When the fish is quite tender take 
it out and keep hot. 

Now slice about a dozen button mushrooms and add them to 
the fish liquor. Simmer till the mushrooms are done, then re- 
move the herbs, skim carefully, and add one gill of cream and 
about the same quantity of Neapolitan sauce. Heat up again 
and pour it over the fish before serving. 



9<5 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Stewed macaroni, with which a little Parmesan cheese has 
been mixed, is usually served with this dish. 

To make the Neapolitan sauce chop up any odds and ends 
of fish trimmings and bones and place them in a stewpan 
with an ounce of butter, a little minced bacon, and some slices 
of carrots and onions. Stir until well browned and then add 
a tablespoonful of flour. When this also is browned, add half 
a pint of good stock, a glass of Madeira or sherry and a little 
tomato sauce. After simmering for another five minutes pass 
the whole through a sieve and boil up again in a fresh sauce- 
pan. 

Whitebait. 

Although always ready and willing to partake of a dish of 
this sweet little fish when dining-out or lunching at some fa- 
vorite restaurant, the average housewife rarely, if ever, essays 
to cook the dish at home, being under the impression that it is 
beyond her powers. I hope to prove that this idea is erroneous 
and can promise that if my instructions are faithfully carried 
out, the simplicity of the operations and excellent results will 
make such an appeal that whitebait will, in future, often figure 
on the menus of quite ordinary homes. 

Procedure. — Take a pint of whitebait and place in a large 
bowl of cold water, to which ice has been added. (It is a good 
plan to stand the bowl on ice if that can be managed.) 

Now place two clean cloths on a table, side by side. On one 
of these place a heap (about three pounds) of best white flour. 
Have your frying fat (lard is the best) smoking hot on the 
fire. 

Now take a handful of the whitebait, shake it free of water, 
and sprinkle the fish on top of the flour heap. 

Put your frying-basket on the empty cloth. Now take up, 
by its four corners, the cloth with the flour and fish and tip 
out its contents into the frying-basket, placing the emptied 
cloth back in position on the table. Now shake the basket 
gently until, the flour having fallen to the cloth beneath, only 
the fish are left. 

Immerse the basket with fish in the boiling fat and cook for 
two minutes, giving the basket an occasional shake. At the 
end of this time, lift basket, allow fat to drain for a moment 
and then tip out fish on to a large flat dish (very hot) upon 
which a sheet of white paper has been previously placed. Re- 
peat these operations (always standing the empty frying- 



STANDARD COOKERY. 97 

basket on that cloth which has no flour upon it) until all the 
whitebait has been cooked. 

When it is time to serve, replace all the whitebait in the 
frying-basket and plunge into the boiling fat for a further two 
minutes. Drain free of fat, and tip out whitebait on to a hot 
dish, previously covered with a clean white napkin. Garnish 
with quarters of lemon and fried parsley sprigs and serve 
smoking hot, together with thin slices of brown bread and 
butter. 

Deviled Whitebait 

is prepared exactly as above with the addition of a seasoning 
of cayenne pepper and salt. 

Whitebait. (Another Method.) 

Put them in a cloth, which shake gently so as to dry them; 
then place them in some very fine bread-crumbs and flour 
mixed: toss them lightly with the hands, take them out im- 
mediately, and put them in a wire basket, and fry them in hot 
lard; one minute will cook them; turn them out on a cloth, 
sprinkle a little salt over, and serve very hot. Should you 
not have a wire basket, sprinkle them into the pan, and as 
soon as they rise take them out. 

Fried Whiting. 

The whiting is generally skinned, and the tail turned round 
and fixed into the mouth; dip it first into flour, then egg over 
and dip it into breadcrumbs, fry as directed for the sole; for 
whiting aux fines herbes, proceed as directed for sole aux 
fines herbes. I prefer the whiting fried with their skins on, 
merely dipping them in flour. 

Whiting au Gratin. 
Put a good spoonful of chopped onions upon a strong earthen 
dish, with a glass of wine, season the whiting with a little 
pepper and salt, put it in the dish, sprinkle some chopped pars- 
ley and chopped mushrooms over, and pour over half a pint of 
anchovy sauce, over which sprinkle some brown breadcrumbs, 
grated from the crust of bread, place it in a warm oven for 
half an hour; it requires to be nicely browned; serve upon the 
dish you have cooked it in. 

Broiled Fish. 

Clean carefully and split open any large fish and place it 
in a deep dish, covering with a marinade of vinegar, oil, minced 
onion, pepper, salt and herbs. Let it stand for at least an hour 



98 STANDARD COOKERY. 

in a cold place, turning the fish over several times. When 
ready to cook drain the fish carefully, dip it first into bread- 
crumbs, and broil carefully until well browned. 
Tartare sauce goes well with this dish. 

Fish Chartreuse. 

Take any remains of cold fish, break it into flakes, and 
moisten with cream, seasoning with a little pepper and salt. 
Have ready some mashed potatoes and sufficient hard-boiled 
eggs. Now take a well-buttered mold and fill it alternately 
with layers of mashed potato, flaked fish, and hard-boiled egg 
cut into thick slices. Let it steam from twenty to thirty min- 
utes, according to the size of the mold and serve very hot. 

Fish Stew. 

Place in a casserole, or shallow earthenware cooking vessel, 
a sole, fillets of turbot, brill, or almost any other white fish, 
and add twenty shelled mussels with a little of their liquor, 
and a few heads of small button mushrooms. When almost 
cooked drain off the sauce, arrange the mussels and mushrooms 
round the fish, strain the sauce and thicken it with the yolk 
of an egg. If there is not sufficient sauce add a little strong 
clear stock thickened with butter and flour. Replace the cover 
on the vessel, let it cook for two or three minutes longer, and 
serve very hot. 

Another method is to strain off the sauce entirely and re- 
place it with a brown sauce made by adding clear stock butter 
to a little melted butter thickened with flour. 

Fish Salad. 

This is a capital recipe for utilizing odds and ends of fish. 

Flake two cupfuls of any kind of cold boiled fish and add 
half a pound of picked and chopped shrimps. Stir in two 
tablespoonfuls of capers, a little pepper, celery seed, and four 
tablespoonfuls of vinegar. A little cayenne or a minced green 
chili may be added if pungency it not disliked. Next, mix 
with these just enough mayonnaise dressing to make the whole 
slightly moist, and serve with lettuce leaves. Hard-boiled eggs 
in slices, beetroot cut in patterns, and scraps of aspic jelly 
may be used as a garnish. 

Fish Klosh. 

Mince an ounce of ham or bacon with a shallot or small 
onion and fry in an ounce of butter until just cooked. Next 
stir in an ounce of flour, add a quarter of a pint of milk, and 
let the whole boil gently for five minutes. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 99 

Mix this with one egg and half a pound of any cold fish 
finely flaked, and season with pepper and salt. Spread the 
mixture on a plate and put it aside. When quite cold mold 
the mixture into small balls and poach them for five or six 
minutes in boiling water or fish stock. 

Serve with anchovy sauce poured over them. 

Fish Matelote. 

Slice two pounds of any kind of fresh white fish — it is bet- 
ter to have several kinds mixed — and place in a frying pan 
with twenty very small white onions and two ounces of but- 
ter. Fry until the whole is a golden brown. Next place in a 
saucepan, or better still, in an earthenware cooking pot, with 
six sliced mushrooms, an ounce and a half of flour, a sprinkling 
of pepper and salt, the juice of half a small lemon, and a bunch 
of herbs. Add half a pint each of clear stock and red wine, 
and simmer the whole for half an hour. Add more seasoning 
if required, and serve as hot as possible. 

This somewhat resembles the famous Bouillabaisse of South- 
ern France. 

Fried Frogs' Legs. 

The thighs of the edible frog, which is a large variety found 
in certain parts of England as well as on the Continent, are 
regarded as a great delicacy both in France and America, and 
bear a certain resemblance to a very young chicken. The 
ordinary frog is just as good, but owing to its small size the 
amount of flesh on the legs is insignificant. 

The frog's legs must be carefully skinned, immersed in milk 
for a few minutes, next sprinkled with pepper and salt, rolled 
in flour, and then fried in a kettle of boiling fat. 

As they are apt to have a slightly fishy taste, a little onion 
or minced garlic is usually cooked with them. 

Snails in Shells. 

Although snails are not commonly eaten in England, yet the 
large Roman variety properly prepared is by no means to be 
despised, and is a very popular dish in many districts of France 
and other parts of the Continent. The ordinary garden snail 
will serve the purpose, but the Roman variety is much larger 
and is supposed to possess a better flavor. 

Throw the snails into boiling water for a quarter of an 
hour or twenty minutes, and then remove them from their shells 
and let them boil for another ten minutes in well-salted water, 
stirring them about briskly in order to clean them. At the 



100 STANDARD COOKERY. 

same time the shells must be thoroughly cleaned with hot water. 
Now mince finely a few button mushrooms, some parsley, shal- 
lots, and a little garlic — or onion, if it is preferred — and 
work into a paste with fresh butter and a little pepper and salt. 
Put a little of this mixture into the shell, then replace the 
snail and fill the mouth of the shell with more of the paste. 
Lay them one by one upon a cooking plate, into which a little 
white wine has been poured, being careful that the mouth of 
each shell is upwards. Turn another plate over the whole 
and cook in a brisk oven for half an hour. Serve very hot. 

Another method is to stew the cleaned snails — without their 
shells — in equal parts of strong stock and white wine with a 
few mushrooms and a little parsley. Immediately before serv- 
ing, the yolks of two or three eggs should be well stirred in. 

French Anglers' Way of Stewing Fish. 
Take about four pounds or less of all kinds of fish, that is, 
carp, pike, trout, tench, eels, etc., or any one of them, cut 
them into medium-sized pieces, no matter the size of the 
fish — let the pieces be of equal size; put them in a black pot 
or stewpan, season over with nearly a tablespoonful of salt, 
half one of pepper, half one of sugar, four good-sized onions, 
sliced thin, add a half-bottle of common French wine, or four 
glasses of port or sherry, half a pint of water ; set it on the fire 
to stew, gently tossing it now and then; when tender, which 
you may easily ascertain by feeling with your finger the dif- 
ferent pieces, mix a spoonful of flour with two ounces of but- 
ter, which put bit by bit in the pan, move it round by shaking 
the pan, not with any spoon; boil a few minutes longer, and 
serve, dishing the fish in pyramid, sauce over; if the sauce is 
too thin, reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon; 
taste ; if it is highly seasoned, a few sprigs of thyme or bay- 
leaf may be added. Some of the fish may be done sooner than 
the others; if so, take them out first, and keep warm until all 
are done. The motive of mixing fish, is that it is supposed the 
flavor of all together is finer than one alone. Conger eel is 
also done in this way. 

Melted Butter. 
Put into a stewpan two ounces of butter, not too hard, also 
a good tablespoonful of flour, mix both well with a wooden 
spoon, without putting it on the fire ; when forming a smooth 
paste, add to it a little more than half a pint of water; season 
with a teaspoonful of salt, not too full, the. sixth part that of 



STANDARD COOKERY. loi 

pepper; set it on the fire, stir round continually until on the 
point of boiling; take it off, add a teaspoonful of brown vine- 
gar, then add one ounce more of fresh butter, which stir in 
your sauce till melted, then use where required; a little nut- 
meg grated may be introduced ; it ought, when done, to adhere 
lightly to the back of the spoon, but transparent, not pasty ; 
it may also, if required, be passed through a sieve. If wanted 
plainer, the last butter may be omitted. 

Anchovy Sauce. 
Make the same quantity of melted butter as in the last, but 
omit the salt, and add three good tablespoonfuls of essence of 
anchovies. 

Fennel Sauce. 
This is a sauce principally used for boiled mackerel. Make 
the same quantity of melted butter as in the last, to which add 
a good tablespoonful of chopped fennel ; it is usually served 
in a boat. 

Egg Sauce. 

is generally served with salt fish or haddock. Boil six eggs 
ten minutes, let them get cold, then cut them in pieces about 
the size of dice, put them into a stewpan, with three parts of 
a pint of melted butter, add an ounce more fresh butter, with a 
little pepper and salt; keep the stewpan moving round over the 
fire until the whole is very hot, and serve in a boat. 

Shrimp Sauce. 

Make the same quantity of melted butter as before, to which 
add three tablespoonfuls of essence of shrimps but omitting 
the salt; add half a pint of picked shrimps, and serve in a boat. 
If no essence of shrimps, some anchovy sauce may be served 
with shrimps in it as a substitute. 

Shrimp Sauce is also very good as follows: — Pound half 
a pint of shrimps, skins and all, in a mortar, and boil them ten 
minutes in half a pint of water; pass the liquor through a hair 
sieve into a stewpan, and add a piece of butter, the size of 
two walnuts, with which you have mixed a good teaspoonful 
of flour, stir it round over the fire until upon the point of 
boiling; if too thick, add a little more water; season with a 
little cayenne and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies ; serve 
very hot; a few picked shrimps might also be served in it. 

Lobster Sauce. 
Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, cut 



102 STANDARD COOKERY. 

up a small-sized lobster into dice, make a quarter of a pound 
of lobster butter with the spawn, as directed; when the melted 
butter is upon the point of boiling, add the lobster butter, stir 
the sauce round over the fire until the butter is melted, season 
with a little essence of anchovies, the juice of half a lemon, 
and a quarter of a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; pass it 
through a sieve into another stewpan, and add the flesh of 
the lobster; when hot, it is ready to serve where required. 
This sauce must be quite red; if no red spawn in the lobster, 
use live spawn. 

New and Economical Lobster Sauce. 

Should you require to use the solid flesh of a lobster for 
salad, or any other purpose, pound the soft part and shell 
together (in a mortar) very fine, which put into a stewpan, 
covered with a pint of boiling water; place it over the fire to 
simmer for ten minutes ; then pass the liquor through a hair 
sieve into a bowl ; put three ounces of butter into a stewpan, 
into which rub (cold) a good tablespoonful of flour, add the 
liquor from the lobster, place it upon the fire, stirring until the 
point of boiling; season with a little cayenne, and add a piece 
of anchovy butter, the size of a walnut; or, if any red spawn 
in the lobster, mix it with butter, as in the last, and add it, 
with the juice of half a lemon, just before serving. An an- 
chovy pounded with the lobster shells would be an improve- 
ment, and part of the flesh of the lobster might be served in 
the sauce. 

Lobster Sauce a la Creme. 
Cut a small lobster into slices the size of half-crown pieces, 
which put into a stewpan ; pound the soft and white parts with 
an ounce of butter, and rub it through a sieve ; pour ten spoon- 
fuls of melted butter, and two of cream, over the slices in the 
stewpan, add half a blade of mace, a saltspoonful of salt, a 
quarter ditto of pepper, and a little cayenne; warm gently, 
and when upon the point of boiling, add the butter and two 
tablespoonfuls of thick cream; shake round over the fire until 
quite hot, when it is ready to serve. 

Oyster Sauce. 
Mix three ounces of butter in a stewpan with two ounces 
of flour, then blanch and beard three dozen oysters, put the 
oysters into another stewpan, add beards and liquor to the flour 
and butter with a pint and a half of milk, a teaspoonful of 
salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, two cloves, half a blade 



STANDARD COOKERY. 103 

of mace, and six peppercorns; place it over the fire, keep stir- 
ring, and boil it ten minutes, then add a tablespoonful of es- 
sence of anchovies, and one of Harvey sauce; pass it through 
a sieve over the oysters; make the whole very hot without 
boiling, and serve. A less quantity may be made, using less 
proportions. 

Another Method. 
Put a pint of white sauce into a stewpan, with the liquor 
and beards of three dozen oysters (as above), six peppercorns, 
two cloves, and half a blade of mace; boil it ten minutes, then 
add a spoonful of essence of anchovies, a little cayenne and salt 
if required; pass it through a hair sieve, over the oysters, as 
in the last. 

A Plainer Method. 

Blanch three dozen of oysters, which again put into the 
stewpan, with their liquor (after having detached the beards) ; 
add six peppercorns and half a blade of mace; place them 
over the fire, and when beginning to simmer, add a piece of 
butter the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed suffi- 
cient flour to form a paste, breaking it in four or five pieces ; 
shake the stewpan round over the fire, and when upon the 
point of boiling, and becoming thick, add half a gill of milk, 
or more if required; season with a little cayenne, salt, pepper, 
and a few drops of essence of anchovies; serve very hot. 

Mussel Sauce. 

Proceed exactly the same as for oyster sauce, using only the 
liquor of the mussels (not the beards) instead of the oysters, 
and serving the mussels in the sauce; about four dozen would 
be sufficient. 

Cream Sauce. 

Put two yolks of eggs in the bottom of a stewpan, with 
the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a little 
white pepper, and a quarter of a pound of hard fresh butter, 
place the stewpan over a moderate fire, and commence stirring 
with a wooden spoon (taking it from the fire now and then 
when getting too hot), until the butter has gradually melted 
and thickened with the eggs — (great care must be exercised, 
for if it should become too hot, the eggs would curdle, and 
render the sauce useless) ; then add half a pint of melted but- 
ter; stir altogether over the fire, without permitting it to boil; 
pass it through a sieve into another stewpan; when wanted, 



104 STANDARD COOKERY. 

stir it over the fire until hot. This sauce may be served with 
any description of boiled nsh. 

Matelote Sauce. 

For about a pound slice of salmon make the following 
quantity of sauce : — Peel thirty button onions, and put half 
a teaspoonful of sugar in a quart-size stewpan, place it over 
a sharp fire, and when melted and getting brown, add a piece 
of butter (the size of two walnuts) and the onions, toss them 
over now and then until rather brown, then add a glass of 
sherry; let it boil, then add half a pint of brown sauce and 
a gill of broth ; simmer at the corner of the fire until the 
onions are quite tender; skim it well, and add a few mush- 
rooms, if at hand ; season with a little salt and sugar, and sauce 
over any kind of fish where described. The addition of a 
teaspoonful of essence of anchovies is an improvement. Use 
where directed. 

Matelote Sauce Simplified. 

Proceed as above respecting the onions, only add a fourth 
more butter, and fry them a little browner; then add a glass 
of sherry, and two teaspoonfuls of flour, which stir round 
gently with a small wooden spoon, add to it about a pint of 
water, stir now and then till boiling, add three saltspoonfuls 
of salt, two of sugar, one of pepper, and a bouquet garni ; sim- 
mer and skim, add a few drops of coloring to give it a nice 
brown color ;• when ready to serve, add a good tabl?spoonful of 
anchovy essence ; it ought to adhere lightly to the back of the 
spoon, but not be too thick; sauce over or under, as directed; 
small pieces of glaze, if at hand, put into it is an improve- 
ment, as is also using broth instead of water ; oysters and mush- 
rooms may be introduced, also a little cayenne pepper. This 
sauce must be very savory. 

Lobster Butter. 

Procure half a lobster, quite full of spawn, which take out 
and pound well in a mortar ; then add six ounces of fresh 
butter, mix well together, then rub it through a hair sieve, 
and put it in a cold place until wanted. The flesh can be used 
for any other dish. 

Anchovy Butter. 

Take the bones from six anchovies, wash the fillets and dry 
them upon a cloth, pound them well in a mortar; add six 
ounces of fresh butter, mix well together, and proceed as in 
the last. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 105 

Maitre d'Hotel Butter. 

Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter upon a plate with 
one good tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of two 
lemons, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter that quantity 
of white pepper; mix all well together, and put in a cool place 
till required. 

Ravigote Butter. 
Proceed as in the last, but instead of parsley, use one spoon- 
ful of chopped tarragon, and one of chervil, and add half a 
spoonful of Chill vinegar. 



SOYER'S PAPER-BAG COOKERY. 

FISH 

No feature of the daily menu is so dainty and delicious as 
fish. Properly cooked it is at once a delight to the gourmet 
and a light, nourishing article of diet to the invalid. 

But nothing is so difficult to cook well — by the ordinary 
methods — as fish. Its delicate, elusive flavors are so easily 
lost and its light " flakiness " so easily destroyed. 

With the paper-bag all this is avoided. The delicate fla- 
vors cannot but be retained by a method which allows nothing 
to escape, and the fish will be found far superior in taste, 
appearance, and digestibility. Here, too, as with other ar- 
ticles, there is a saving of time, and the various seasonings 
can be used more economically and to better advantage. 

Cod Bourgeoise. 

Take two slices of cod, lay them in a well-buttered bag, 
season with salt and pepper. Place two mushrooms and two 
sliced tomatoes on the top of the fish, add a chopped shallot, 
dot over with butter, squeeze over with lemon juice, seal up, 
and cook for fifteen minutes in 300° Fahr. 

Stewed Eels. 

Cut up two eels in pieces two inches long. Add salt and 
pepper, chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of flour, a little sweet 
herbs (according to taste). Add a small chopped onion. Mix 
this well together. Put in the paper bag with two spoonfuls 
of milk, water, or stock (one of either according to taste). 

Seal up the bag and put on the grid. Leave twenty minutes 
in a moderate oven (300° Fahr.). Butter added to the above 



io6 STANDARD COOKERY. 

in the paper bag will make the dish richer. After twenty 
minutes, serve in the paper bag, or dish in the ordinary way. 

Fish Croquettes. 

Mix one pound of cooked fish of any variety with two large 
tablespoonfuls of white sauce, season with salt, pepper, and 
cayenne, and a little chopped parsley. Form into croquettes, 
roll them in egg and breadcrumbs in the usual way, place them 
in a well-dressed paper bag, and cook for twenty minutes in a 
very hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Salmon Croquettes, 
are made in the same way, but should be served with tartare 
sauce. 

Smoked Haddock. 
Trim a smoked haddock weighing about two pounds, sea- 
son with cayenne pepper to taste, but do not use any salt. 
Pour two large tablespoonfuls of milk over the fish, and cover 
it with a little white sauce. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, 
a few breadcrumbs, and enough oiled butter to moisten. Place 
the whole in a well-buttered paper bag, seal up, and cook for 
twenty minutes in a very hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Stuffed Fresh Haddock. 

Chop a cooked onion and mix it with three tablespoonfuls of 
breadcrumbs. Add one ounce of butter, salt, and pepper to 
taste, a little chopped parsley, and one egg. When thoroughly 
mixed stuff the fish with the mixture, butter a paper bag, roll 
the fish in flour, place in the bag, dot over with small pieces 
of butter, seal up, and cook for twenty minutes in 300° Fahr. 

Haddock a la Royale. 

Take from four to six fillets of fresh haddock. Spread them 
with butter. Dip in seasoned flour, and then in grated cheese. 
Put into a well-greased bag, and add to them rather better 
than a gill of milk. Cook gently for from fifteen to twenty 
minutes (300° Fahr.), according to thickness of fillets. Dish 
up on a hot dish and serve. 

Haddock a la Princesse. 

Take two filleted haddocks. Rub them over gently with 
butter with a silver fish knife. Dip them in flour and then 
squeeze a little lemon juice over each, and dust lightly with 
pepper and salt. 

Place them carefully in a well-greased bag. Add to them 



STANDARD COOKERY. 107 

half a wineglassful each of sherry, and Worcester sauce and 
water. Fold and seal in a bag, and cook in a moderately hot 
oven (300° Fahr.) from fifteen to eighteen or twenty minutes 
according to the thickness of the fillets. Dish up on a hot 
dish, pour the liquor in which they were cooked over them, 
and serve as hot as possible. 

Hake. 

Slice three pounds of fish, season with salt and pepper, add 
a small chopped onion and a few sweet herbs- Mix one ounce 
of butter or dripping with a large tablespoonful of fiour, add 
three parts of a glass of milk and stir to a smooth paste. Place 
all these ingredients with the fish in a well-buttered paper bag 
and cook for twenty minutes (300° Fahr.). Any sauce can 
be added as flavoring if desired, 

Hake or Cod a la Valeska. 
Take a cutlet of either; spread each side well with butter, 
dip into seasoned flour, then sprinkle very thickly with finely 
grated cheese. A mixture of Parmesan and Gruyere is the 
best, but any kind, even Dutch, will do ; grease a bag well 
with butter. Put in the fish and add to it a gill of either 
good fish stock or flavored milk {i.e., milk in which a slice 
each of onion, turnip and carrot and a bit of celery have sim- 
mered for fifteen minutes), and cook for from- tzventy to thirty 
minutes, according to the thickness of the cutlet, in a mod- 
erately hot oven (300° Fahr.), Turn out gently on to a hot 
dish. Pour the sauce over, sprinkle picked shrimps on top and 
serve. The shrimps should be made hot, not cooked, in a little 
roll of well-greased Soyer paper separately. 

Halibut a la Minute. 
Season a slice of halibut about an inch in thickness with 
salt and pepper and roll in flour. Slice two tomatoes, lay them 
on the fish, squeeze lemon juice over, dot with small pieces of 
butter, and place in a thoroughly buttered paper bag. Seal 
up and cook for fifteen minutes in a very hot oven (350° 
Fahr.). 

Herrings a la Russe. 
Take four very fresh soft-roed herrings. Get the fishmonger 
to bone them for you. In the center of each place a big tea- 
spoonful of French mustard and a bit of butter. Dust lightly 
with black pepper, and place in a well-buttered bag. Add to 
them half a wineglassful of hock or sherry and half a wine- 



io8 STANDARD COOKERY. 

glassful of either shallot or tarragon vinegar as preferred. 
Cook for fifteen to eighteen minutes, according to the thick- 
ness of the fish, in a moderately hot oven (300° Fahr.). 

Dish up on a hot dish and serve with a beetroot salad. This 
is a most appetizing way of cooking herrings, but it must be 
done in the Soyer bag if it is to be done to perfection. 

For the dressing for the sliced beetroot allow two table- 
spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar to one of oil, and pepper and 
salt to taste. 

Fresh Herring. 

Slit the fish on each side in a horizontal direction. Place 
on it a little mace, bay leaves, parsley, a small piece of onion, 
and some salt and pepper. Add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 
Place in the paper-bag, seal up, put on the grid in a moderate 
oven for twenty minutes (300° Fahr.). 

Kippers and Bloaters. 

can be treated in the same way, with or without butter. If 
boiling is preferred, add a tablespoonful of water. To grill 
fish of this kind, add butter or dripping only. 

Lobster a. I'Americaine. 

Cut a good-sized lobster crossways into seven slices. Re- 
move the soft part of the flesh, put it into a bowl, and mix with 
it three large tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, two teaspoon- 
fuls of Madeira, a little chopped parsley and tarragon. Sea- 
son with cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Add an ounce of 
oiled butter and stir well. Mix with the sliced lobster, place in 
an oiled paper-bag and cook for tzvclvc minutes in a very hot 
oven (350° Fahr.). 

Red or Gray Mullet. 
Take the fish with a half tomato cut up, one mushroom, salt, 
pepper, a little lemon juice or vinegar, one teaspoonful of flour 
(this can be omitted if desired), a little chopped parsley, and a 
little butter. Place in the paper bag, seal up, and allow tzventy 
minutes in a moderate oven ('300° Fahr.). 

Mackerel a la Napolitaine. 

Take two very fresh filleted mackerel, place a line of fresh 
tarragon leaves on each fillet. Dust with pepper and salt to 
taste. Butter a bag thickly, put in the fillets of mackerel, and 
then on top of each pour gently a large tablespoonful of tomato 
catsup (the American variety gives the best results as it is 
far more delicately flavored than the English sort). Close the 



STANDARD COOKERY. 109 

bag and cook for from eighteen to tzventy to twenty-Uve min- 
utes in 300° Fahr., according to the thickness of the fish. 
Turn out carefully, pour the sauce over them and send to 
table at once. 

If preferred, the quantity of sauce may be increased, but the 
above is quite sufficient for the cooking process. Herrings, 
it may be noted, are equally good this way. In this case a very 
little minced chives may be added to the tarragon. 

Plaice a la Meuniere. 

Filleted or whole fish can be used for this dish. Chop a 
small shallot, add a teaspoonful of anchovy paste or sauce, a 
squeeze of lemon juice, one ounce of butter, a little chopped 
parsley, salt and pepper, and a little cayenne. Place in a thor- 
oughly buttered bag, dredge with flour, pour a tablespoonful 
of oiled butter on top of the fish, seal up and cook. For two 
pounds of whole fish, thirty minutes, and eight minutes for the 
same weight filleted (heat 350° Fahr.). 

Sole Bourguigone. 

Thoroughly butter a bag, place inside a well-trimmed sole, 
add three small peeled, uncut onions, a bouquet garni, and a 
glass of claret. Mix a large teaspoonful of flour with an 
ounce of butter, place this mixture on the sole, seal up the bag, 
and cook for tzventy minutes in a hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Lemon Soles a la Comtesse. 

Grease a bag thickly. Take six or eight fillets of lemon 
soles. Dust them lightly with salt and white pepper and 
squeeze a little lemon juice over each fillet. Put them in the 
bag and add to them an ounce of finely minced mushrooms, 
half a heaped large teaspoonful of finely minced shallot or 
chives, a heaped large teaspoonful of minced parsley and a 
heaped dessertspoonful of freshly fried breadcrumbs, all mixed 
together. Add also half a wineglassful of sherry mixed with 
the same amount of either good fish or ordinary stock. Close 
the bag and cook in a moderately hot o^en for eighteen to 
tzventy minutes (300° Fahr.). Pour the liquor and herbs, 
etc., over the fish and send to table at once. To make the fish 
stock put the bones and trimmings from the fish in a clean 
small stewpan with a gill of water and a bit of turnip, carrot, 
onion and celery, all first well washed and sliced, and simmer 
for fifteen minutes. Strain off and use. 



no STANDARD COOKERY. 

Sole, Filleted Plaice, Brill or Cod. 

Any of these can be cooked in the same way, and should 
be allowed the same time as turbot. 

Sprats. 
Clean and dry one pound of sprats, and roll them in flour. 
Melt one ounce of butter, season v/ith a little cayenne pepper, 
add a finely chopped shallot, and a tablespoonful of vinegar. 
Sprinkle this mixture over the sprats and place them in a v^^ell- 
buttered bag. Seal up and cook for five minutes in a very hot 
oven (350° Fahr.). 

Smelts Milanaise. 

Trim a dozen smelts, roll them in flour. Put one ounce of 
butter on a very hot dish and let it melt, roll the fish in this 
butter, sprinkle with a little cayenne pepper and a little grated 
Parmesan, and place them side by side in a well-buttered paper- 
bag. Cover lightly with breadcrumbs, and pour a little tomato 
sauce between each smelt. Seal up and cook for eigJit minutes 
in a very hot oven (350° Fahr.). Serve with slices of lemon. 

Salmon 
can be cooked with any kind of seasoning to taste. A whole 
slice will take twenty minutes in a hot oven; a seven pound 
sliced salmon will take forty-live minutes. Mushroom, tomato, 
salt and pepper, lemon juice, can be added as desired, and 
cooked in the paper-bag with the fish. 

For grilling or baking, dredge with a little flour and a little 
butter, and put in a very hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Scallops. 

Wash and trim half-a-dozen scallops, chop finely, and re- 
place in the deep shell. Mince four mushrooms, add a chopped 
shallot, a little parsley, one chopped tomato, one teaspoonful 
of flour, season to taste, and mix with lemon juice. Cover the 
scallops with the mixture, sprinkle with grated Parmesan, a few 
breadcrumbs, and dot over with small pieces of butter. Place 
in a bag, seal, and cook for ten minutes in a very hot oven 
(350° Fahr.). 

Turbot. 

The whole fish (or part) can be done in the same way. 
A pound to a pound and a half will take twenty minutes to cook. 
A turbot of seven pounds will take forty-five minutes. It can 
be cooked with or without garnish, with butter or quite plain. 
Season your fish with salt and pepper and the juice of one 



STANDARD COOKERY. in 

lemon; but this can be omitted if desired. Place in the paper 

bag, seal up, place on grid, and put in hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Whiting a la Normande. 

Place two skinned whiting in a buttered bag. Place half-a- 
dozen bearded oysters between them, and add half-a-dozen 
sliced mushrooms. Mix two ounces of butter with a large tea- 
spoonful of flour, add a few shelled shrimps and a little an- 
chovy paste. Place on the whiting. Pour in two tablespoon- 
fuls of white wine. Seal up in bag and cook for fifteen minutes 
(350° Fahr.). After placing the whiting on a dish, squeeze a 
little lemon juice over them. 

Note. — Clean the mushrooms first with a bit of flannel and 
a little salt. 

Whiting Fines Herbes. 

Take two whiting (four pound size), get the fishmonger to 
bone them. Fill the cavity with half a teaspoonful of mixed 
finely minced chives or shallot and parsley, season to taste with 
salt and pepper and a tiny squeeze of lemon juice. 

Put into a well-greased bag, and hake for fifteen minutes in 
300° Fahr. 

Then dish up a very hot dish, pour the liquor from the 
fish into the center of each, and serve at once. Haddock and 
fresh herrings are also excellent when cooked in this way. 
Trout a la Soyer. 

Take a nice trout from half a pound to two pounds in weight. 
Clean and trim well. Then cut on each side about eight or 
ten incisions. Season well with salt and pepper, according to 
taste. Take two ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of an- 
chovy paste or sauce. Rub half a shallot on a cold plate and 
throw the shallot away. Mix a teaspoonful of flour with the 
butter on the plate you have rubbed with shallot. Add a large 
teaspoonful of capers (if at hand). Place your trout in a well- 
buttered paper-bag with all the ingredients. Have ready half 
a cucumber blanched in boiling water for six minutes and cut 
up in small dice. Also two medium-sized carrots cooked in 
boiling water, salt, and a little sugar, cut small. Slice two 
large gherkins and twelve small new cooked potatoes. Place 
all the above around the raw fish in the paper-bag, adding the 
juice of one lemon. Put one tablespoonful of melted butter 
over the vegetables, etc. Seal bag and place carefully on grid. 
Allow for one trout, half a pound, twenty minutes; one pound 
twenty-five minutes; one and a half pounds, thirty-five min- 
utes; two pounds forty minutes — in hot oven (350° Fahr.). 



112 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Any fish can be cooked in the same way by shortening or 
adding to the garnishing of the above recipe. Fresh mush- 
rooms are always very welcome in cooking trout, salmon, tur- 
bot, whiting, halibut, eels, or any other kind of fish. This is a 
matter to be left to the taste of the cook. But never omit to 
MIX up the flour with the cold fresh butter, to be laid well on 
the top of the fish. If you desire a sauce, put half a glass of 
claret with your fish in the paper bag. 

Light White Fish. 
Take any kind of light white fish. Roll in flour, then in a 
little milk, afterwards in breadcrumbs. Grease your paper-bag 
with butter, olive oil, or dripping. Put the fish in the bag and 
seal up. Place the bag on the grid in a very hot oven (350° 
Fahr.), and allow twenty minutes or so, according to size. 
Season to taste before serving. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 113 



POULTRY AND GAME. 

Stuffed Chicken. 

Wash and dry thoroughly six or seven ounces of rice and 
fry it in an ounce and a half of butter until lightly browned. 
Then cover w^ith a little stock and cook till quite tender. If 
necessary add more stock from time to time, but when cooked 
the rice should be nearly dry. 

Fry two chopped onions in one and a half ounces of butter, 
add the cooked rice, two hard-boiled eggs cut into dice, and 
season to taste. Mix well and stuff a boned chicken with this 
preparation. 

Braise the fowl gently, and when done serve with a good 
White sauce poured over it. 

Chicken Liver and Ham. 

Take equal portions of chicken liver, chicken gizzard, and 
ham — each sliced very fine — chopped onion, potatoes, and as- 
paragus tips. Stew the meat for half an hour in as little 
water as possible, and then add the vegetables and cook until 
well done. If necessary a little more water may be added dur- 
ing the cooking. Season to taste and serve very hot. 

Stewed Chicken. 

Stuff a chicken with a mixture of breadcrumbs, a finely 
minced onion, some grated lemon peel, parsley, thyme, well 
incorporated with a whipped egg and a little butter. Place a 
piece of fat over the breast of the bird and put it into a stew- 
pan with one ounce of butter. Leave it uncovered for five 
minutes, then cover and cook thoroughly for an hour and a 
half. Now add half a cupful of cream, place the stewpan over 
a hotter part of the fire and baste thoroughly before serving. 

Baked Turkey. 

Slice two sausages and place in a frying-pan with eight 
stoned French plums, four pears peeled, cored and sliced, and 
half a pint of boiled chestnuts. Fry in a little butter for about 
two minutes. Mix the whole with the liver of the turkey, 



114 STANDARD COOKERY. 

finely chopped, and one glass of Marsala or sherry, and make 
into forcemeat, with which stuff the turkey. Now place the 
bird in a baking dish with a few slices of bacon, two or three 
sprigs of rosemary, and a pinch of salt. Bake in a slow oven, 
basting from time to time. 

Larks in Onions. 

Bone a dozen larks, and stuff with minced fowl's liver and 
herbs. Lay them upon slices of bacon in a stewpan, cover 
with stock, and simmer carefully for a quarter of an hour. 
Partly boil six Spanish onions, and when cool divide each into 
halves and remove sufficient of the inside to make room for the 
lark. Line the onion with a little forcemeat, place the lark 
upon it, and cover with more forcemeat. This should be so 
arranged that the head of the bird protrudes through the force- 
meat. Cover each onion with a slice of lard, wrap in a piece 
of white paper, and bake in the oven sufficiently long to cook 
the forcemeat. Use great care in removing the paper and 
draining off the fat before placing on the dish. 

Duck Pie. 

Slice thinly the meat from two roast ducks and steep for one 
hour in a mixture of tarragon vinegar, olive oil, onion juice, 
and pepper. Now line a dish with puff paste and bake just 
enough to color it. Carefully drain the slices of duck and 
place them in alternate layers with sausage meat in the dish. 
Cover with the paste, brush over with the white of an egg, and 
bake for an hour and a half. 

Rabbit Pie. 

Mince together half a pound of veal suet, one pound of fresh 
pork, an onion, a bay leaf, two cloves, a little pepper, salt and 
parsley. After lining a dish with the forcemeat place in it a 
rabbit cut into joints, together with six oysters, six mushrooms, 
and three sliced hard-boiled eggs. Pour a glass of Chablis 
over the whole. Spread with a layer of forcemeat v/ell sprinkled 
with breadcrumbs. Cover closely and bake thoroughly. 
Rabbit Cake. 

Mince the meat of a boiled rabbit and mix with it a quarter 
of a pound of minced beef tongue and chopped onion, a cupful 
of mashed potato, and seasoning to taste. Add a cupful of 
white stock, mix thoroughly, and form the whole into a mold on 
the dish. Cover with breadcrumbs and bits of butter. Bake 
till well browned. Mushroom or tomato sauce should be served 
with the dish. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 115 

Stewed Venison. 

Take about four pounds of haunch of venison, and brown it 
thoroughly in butter. Place it in an earthenware cooking pot 
or stewpan with a cupful of clear stock and claret, a spoonful 
of sugar, a little cinnamon, some parsley, pepper and salt. 
After cooking for an hour, add two dozen well-soaked French 
plums. Closely cover and cook for two hours more; then take 
out the meat, arrange the plums around it on the dish, strain 
the sauce, pour it over the meat and serve. 
Partridges with Cabbage. 

Cover a dish with slices of parboiled cabbage, and on each 
slice place a partridge stuffed with sausage meat. Add a cup- 
ful of strong stock, cover closely, and cook gently for two hours. 
The whole should be served on a dish with partridges placed 
on the cabbage, and the gravy poured over the whole. 

Jacobin Pottage. 

Mince any odds and ends of cold fowl or turkey and season 
with salt, pepper, and grated Parmesan cheese. Line the bot- 
tom of a dish with slices of toast, and pour a cupful of strong 
stock over them. Then add the chopped meat and cover with 
a layer of breadcrumbs. After baking for an hour squeeze the 
juice of a lemon over the dish and serve. 

Stewed Chicken and Rice. 
Stuff a fat fowl with a mixture of breadcrumbs, onion, and 
the yolk of an egg. Cover the breast with slices of lemon and 
salt pork, and wrap thoroughly in oiled paper. Place in a stew- 
pan with an onion, .some parsley, and a clove, and add sufficient 
white stock to nearly cover the bird. Cover closely and cook 
for an hour. After removing the chicken add a cupful of hot 
cream, the beaten yolk of an tgg, and a pinch of cayenne pep- 
per, mix thoroughly and pour it over the chicken, which should 
be served with boiled rice. 

Chicken Cream. 
Thoroughly pound the meat of a boiled fowl, add sufficient 
milk to make into a thick paste, pass through a sieve, and add 
pepper and salt to taste. Stir thoroughly over the fire till 
done, and then pour out upon a dish, arranging six poached 
eggs on the top of the mixture, and garnishing with sprigs of 
parsley. 

Poultry Cassolette. 

To use up odds and ends of cooked poultry. Take equal 



ii6 STANDARD COOKERY. 

portions of well-boiled haricot beans and minced chicken, 
turkey, or duck. Mix thoroughly and fry with two slices of 
bacon, two sliced tomatoes, a minced onion, and herbs to taste. 
Add sufficient good stock to form a moderately thick paste. 
Pour the whole into a dish and bake until well browned. 
Fried Chicken. 

Cut up a fowl and steep for three hours in a mixture of 
lemon juice, olive oil, and seasoning. Drain each piece, dip 
first in beaten egg and then in breadcrumbs, and fry until brown. 

This should be served with a sauce made by cooking a cup- 
ful of new milk with the same quantity of white stock, a dozen 
mushrooms, and the beaten yolk of an egg. Add a squeeze of 
lemon juice and a little chopped parsley before pouring the 
sauce round the bird. 

Chicken Cannelons. 

Mince a cupful of cooked fowl and add a tablespoonful of 
flour, the same quantity of butter, the beaten yolk of an egg, 
two spoonfuls of cream, with pepper and salt to taste. The 
whole should form a thick paste. Now roll some puff paste 
very thin, cut it into squares, fill each with the mixture, and 
fold over. Fry or bake until lightly browned. This should 
be served piled upon a dish and surrounded with parsley. 

Chicken v/ith Cheese. 

Place in an earthenware cooking vessel or enameled sauce- 
pan a young chicken with some butter, half a glass of white 
wine, and the same quantity of clear stock. Add a bouquet 
garni with pepper and salt, and simmer very gently for one 
hour. Now take out the fowl and herbs and thicken the sauce 
with a little flour and butter. Next pour a little of the sauce 
into the dish upon which the bird is to be served, and sprinkle 
over it a good spoonful of grated Parmesan cheese. On this 
place the chicken. Pour over it the rest of the sauce, sprinkle 
well with grated cheese, and place in the oven until the whole 
of the sauce is absorbed and the fowl is nicely browned. 
Chicken with Tomatoes. 

Roast on the spit a fowl stuffed with equal parts of fat and 
lean ham minced. Baste with oil mixed with the juice of a 
lemon and some salt. When the fowl is placed on the dish 
pour over it a puree of tomatoes with which has been blended 
a cup of Malaga wine or port. 

Stewed Fowl. 

Place a fowl in a stewpan, with enough salt water to nearly 



STANDARD COOKERY. 117 

cover it. Add a slice of rather fat ham, and a very little 
garlic, some powdered pimento, and a little saffron. Cook 
till the fov^l is tender, then take it out, reduce the liquor to a 
sauce, thicken with flour and butter, and serve with the fowl. 
Capon with Apples. 
Take a large Soyer paper-bag, well buttered inside through- 
out and place therein a moderate-sized capon over which spread 
slices of bacon, lemon, onions and carrots. Sprinkle with pep- 
per and salt, mixed spices and a few cloves; seal up the bag 
and insert in a very hot oven. In the meantime cut into small 
pieces ten or twelve apples and stew them with the juice of 
two oranges, a little finely minced orange peel and plenty of 
sugar and a small quantity of water. Turn out upon a dish, 
remove the bag from the capon, place the bird upon the com- 
pote, pouring the gravy over it and serve as hot as possible. 

Stewed Woodcock. 

Stuff the bird with a forcemeat made of bacon, parsley and 
shallots finely minced, incorporated with the yolk of an egg, 
and seasoned with pepper and salt. Truss the bird as for roast- 
ing, and place in a small stewpan — preferably of earthenware 
— on a thick slice of bacon. Cover and cook for a quarter 
of an hour, and then add a small glass of Sauterne or other 
white wine. When done add a few drops of vinegar to the 
sauce and serve with the bird. 

Steamed Chicken. 

Take an old hen, and truss in the usual fashion, taking care 
that the legs and wings are tied very closely to the body. Rub 
both inside and outside of the bird with two tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter, with which have been blended a teaspoonful of 
salt and half as much white pepper. 

Now take a large cupful of cooked rice and season with a 
teaspoonful of curry powder and a little pepper and salt. Place 
three tablespoonfuls of this rice inside the fowl, together with 
the giblets, which have been previously stewed for an hour. 
The bird must be placed inside a dish just large enough to hold 
it closely, and the remainder of the rice laid around it. Put the 
dish in a steamer and cook for four hours. 
Chicken Rissoles. 

Make half a pound of puff paste, using no sugar, but mixing 
with it a tablespoonful of grated cheese, the juice of half an 
onion, and a little chopped parsley, pepper and salt. With this 
blend thoroughly half a pound of the finely minced white meat 



ii8 STANDARD COOKERY. 

of a cold chicken, either roast or boiled. Form the mixture 
into moderate-sized balls or large spoonfuls, and poach in a 
little clear stock. When cooked, arrange them in a pile on a 
dish, sprinkle thickly with grated cheese, and place in a fairly- 
brisk oven until they are nicely browned. Tomato sauce is 
usually served with them. 

Partridge au Choux. 

Tie up a good partridge with slices of fat bacon. Cut two 
small white cabbages in four pieces, and blanch, after which 
throw cold water over them and drain. Lay som.e thin pieces 
of bacon at the bottom of a stewpan, also one carrot, one onion 
(previously blanched) and a bouquet garni. 

Place the partridge in the center, surrounded by the cab- 
bage, season with salt and pepper, and add gravy to half the 
height of the contents. Cover lightly, and let all stew gently 
until the partridge is tender. 

The bird should be cut up and arranged in the middle of the 
dish, surrounded by the cabbage and bacon, etc. Pour a little 
of the gravy over the whole. 

Fried Chicken. 

Cut a good-sized fowl into joints and boil in a pint of white 
stock until about half-done. Remove the fowl and drain. Now 
reduce the stock by further boiling, take it from the fire, stir 
in the yolks of two eggs and the juice of a small lemon, and 
strain. Dip each piece of fowl first into this sauce then into a 
mixture of crumbs and grated cheese, and fry in deep fat till 
well browned. 

The remainder of the sauce should be served hot with the 
fried fowl. 

Stewed Chicken. 

Take the remains of cooked chicken, cut into coarse dice — 
there should be about two heaped tablespoonfuls — a slice of 
bread toasted cut into dice, two lar^e potatoes coarsely chopped, 
a tablespoonful of raisins, two tomatoes cut into small pieces, 
and one green chili finely shredded. Mix all together with a 
quarter of a pint of Sauterne, add salt, and place in a stewing 
jar, adding as much water as may be needed to barely cover 
the whole. On the top of all place an ounce of lard cut into 
small pieces. 

Tie a cloth over the Hd of the jar in order to cover closely, 
and let the whole stew very gently for about an hour and a 
half. Serve as hot as possible. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 119 



SOYER'S PAPER-BAG COOKERY. 

POULTRY 
Roast Chicken. 
Cover the breast of the fowl or chicken with butter or drip- 
ping, or better still, tie a piece of fat bacon over it. Place in 
bag, and set on grid in a hot oven. 

Allow twenty-five minutes for a small spring chicken; thirty- 
five minutes for a large fowl; forty-five to fifty minutes (ac- 
cording to size) for stuffed poultry or game in a moderate 
oven. 

Boiled Fowl. 

Place the fowl (or other poultry) ready trussed, in a paper 
bag. Put a little bacon or fat ham on the breast. Place in 
bag one small chopped carrot, one onion, one clove, a little 
sweet herb, celery (if desired), salt and pepper, according to 
taste. Add one and a quarter tumblers of water. Seal up bag. 
Tie a piece of string round the neck of the bag to prevent the 
water running out. Allow forty-five to sixty minutes in a 
moderate oven (300° Fahr.). 

Boiled Turkey. 

Same as above. Allozu one hour and forty-five minutes. If 
stuffed, allow two hours and thirty minutes. 

Tough Old Fowl. 
This can be sent tender to the table if treated as follows: — 
Clean, truss and stuff according to taste. Put five spoonfuls 
of dripping or butter upon the breast. Place in the paper-bag. 
Allow one hour and forty-five minutes to two hours and a half, 
according to the sise of the bird in question, in a moderate 
oven (300° Fahr.). The old rooster will appear on the table 
like a spring chicken, more serviceable than has ever been 
known in the history of cooking. 

Fowl. 

Savory crumbs. Wash the fowl out well inside with plenty 
of cold water. Dry well, put the liver and a small shallot in- 
side the bird. Have ready a large tablespoonful of white bread- 
crumbs. Add to them a lump of butter the size of a big 
walnut, pepper and salt to taste, a teaspoonful of finely minced 
chives, and a teaspoonful of well washed and minced tarragon. 



120 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Mix all together and put into the bag with the bird. Cook 
gently for sixty-five minutes in 300° Fahr. Open bag. Slip 
bird and crumbs out gently on to a hot dish and send to table 
with new potatoes and salad. 

Turkey or Goose. 

Allow one and a quarter hours in moderate oven; if stuffed, 
allow one hour and forty-five minutes to two hours, according 
to size. 

Pigeon. 

Requires very delicate cooking. My method cooks a pigeon 
to perfection, whether it is stuffed or not. To roast allow 
fifteen minutes in a very hot oven; if stuffed, allow twenty to 
twenty-fitve minutes (350° Fahr.). 

Roast Quail. 

Truss and lard the quail in the usual way. Place in bag. 
Seal up and put on grid. Allow eight minutes in a very hot 
oven (350° Fahr.). It must be cooked quickly. If no lard 
or fat is used, a little melted butter will do just as well. 

Chicken Bruxelloise. 

Cut a chicken into small pieces, add a finely-chopped leek, 
a chopped onion, a large tablespoonful of flour, seasoned to 
taste, half a pint of milk, and a small bouquet garni. Mix well 
and place in the bag. Cook for forty-five minutes in 300° 
Fahr. 

Aylesbury Duckling with Turnips. 

Thoroughly butter a paper-bag, place the duckling inside, 
cut a few slices of carrot and turnip into fancy shapes, cut 
up a few blanched spring onions and add with a bouquet garni. 
Pour in three tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, and a wineglass- 
ful of Madeira. Season with salt and pepper according to 
taste. Cook for forty-five to fifty-five minutes, according to 
size of bird, in 300° Fahr. 

Poulet a la Reine. 
Take a fowl, trussed as if for boiling, and rub it well over 
with a split onion. Place it in a well-greased bag, and add to 
it a gill of good stock. Add also a sprig of parsley, a bay 
leaf, a sprig of sweet herbs, and, if obtainable, two or three 
spring onions, all tied together. Take four ounces of well- 
cooked rice and add it to the fowl. Place the bag on the grid; 
simmer very slowly in a moderate oven (300° Fahr.), until 
the fowl is cooked. Then dish up the fowl on a hot dish; re- 



STANDARD COOKERY. 121 

move the herbs, etc., and empty the rice into a fresh bag. 
Add to it a tablespoon ful of stock, two-penny-worth of cream, 
a Httle grated lemon peel, a dust of nutmeg, and pepper and 
salt to taste ; mix thoroughly. Add the well-beaten yolk of an 
egg; make hot again on the grid and serve at once. 

Turkey poult and a fillet of veal are both excellent if cooked 
after this recipe. 

Poulet a I'Americaine. 

Joint a spring chicken neatly (first singeing it carefully), 
then dust each joint lightly with black pepper and place in a 
marinade for an hour, turning it frequently. Have ready a 
light frying batter, wipe the joints on a clean meat cloth, then 
dip each into the batter. Grease a bag very thickly and put 
into it the chicken, place it on the grid in the oven and cook 
for about three-quarters of an hour in 300° Fahr. Then take 
it out of the bag, drain it carefully, dust lightly with salt and 
a very little cayenne pepper and serve it quickly and hot. A 
lentil salad should accompany chicken cooked after this fash- 
ion. 

Poulet a la Marseilles. 

Bone a large fowl (or the poulterer will do this for you) 
and cut it into ten or twelve neat fillets; reserve the giblets, 
back, liver, bones, etc. Place an ounce of either fresh butter 
or clarified beef dripping in a clean enameled iron stewpan; 
as soon as it oils add the giblets, etc., together with a small 
onion stuck with a clove, and notched, in order to allow the 
juice to escape, a dozen peppercorns, a bay leaf, a tiny bit of 
mace, a carrot peeled and sliced, a turnip peeled and cut into 
neat pieces, a bit of celery, or else a good pinch of celery- 
salt, and a pinch of sugar. Fry for ten or twelve minutes, 
and then add half a pint or more of well-flavored stock; bring 
gently to the boil; next draw the pan to the side of the fire 
and simmer very gently, taking care that the stock does not re- 
duce. Have ready a turnip and a carrot cut into tiny stars; 
tie all these up in a bit of muslin and set them to cook in the 
stock. When the latter is thoroughly strong and all the good- 
ness has been extracted from the giblets, etc., strain off the 
stock into a well-greased bag, add to it pepper and salt to 
taste and the fillets of fowl, and let the contents of the bag 
simmer slowly until the fillets are thoroughly cooked, say about 
forty-five minutes, in 300° Fahr. 

Then dish up on a hot dish, and garnish with the vegetable 



122 STANDARD COOKERY. 

stars; thicken the liquor in which the fillets were cooked with 
an ounce of brown roux, or, failing this, with half an ounce of 
flour and half an ounce of butter kneaded together; add to it 
four ounces of previously cooked mushrooms, make very hot, 
and pour over and around the fillets of fowl; garnish the outer 
edge with a border of crisply-fried croiitons, and serve as quickly 
as possible. A wineglassful of sherry or Marsala is an im- 
provement to this sauce. 

Poulet Aux Olives. 

Take a chicken trussed as if for boiling; dust it lightly with 
spiced pepper, and reserve on a plate till needed; place two 
ounces of fresh butter or half a gill of oil, whichever is most 
convenient, in a large bag, add a tiny bit of garlic, notched in 
order to allow the juice to escape, a large tablespoonful of 
breadcrumbs, and the chicken ; place the bag on the grid in 
the oven and cook for half an hour. Then remove the bird to 
a hot dish, having drained it carefully as directed. Pour off 
all the grease from the remaining breadcrumbs and remove the 
garlic. Put the residue of the gravy in a clean bag with an 
ounce of glaze, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a heaped tea- 
spoonful of red currant jelly and a large spoonful of good 
stock or gravy. Fold and make very hot, then open the bag 
and add a dozen olives farcies. 

Make hot on the grid for five minutes. Pour over the 
chicken and garnish with straw potatoes, or, if liked, spinach. 
If the basting and draining are carefully attended to, this dish 
is bound to be a success ; but if the slightest portion of grease 
is allowed to remain behind, the flavor will be spoilt. 

Pheasant 

is excellent treated in this way, and so, too, is black game, 
ptarmigan, or partridge. 

Widgeon and teal may be cooked in this fashion, but plain 
olives should be used in place of the olives farcies alluded to 
here. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 123 



VEGETABLES. 

To Boil Vegetables. 

Always clean thoroughly before cooking and use outside 
leaves in stock pot. All fresh vegetables should be plunged 
into boiling salted water, the proportions being one tablespoon- 
ful of salt to one gallon of water. 

Dried vegetables should be placed in lukewarm water. 

A piece of sugar put into the water in which green vege- 
tables are cooked, allows steam to escape easily. 

Never allow vegetables to stay in the water in which they 
are boiled, but drain them at once and thoroughly. 

Green vegetables take on an average about twenty minutes 
to cook, though ten minutes is often long enough for young 
peas, while cabbages sometimes take nearly an hour. 

Scolloped Artichokes. 

Boil the artichokes until they are quite soft, and mash until 
they are free from lumps ; season with salt and pepper ; mix to 
a creamy consistency with some thick white sauce (made with 
milk). Butter a small fireproof dish; scatter some fine dry 
breadcrumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt, over it, fill up 
with the mashed artichokes, and cover thickly with more of the 
crumbs; pour oiled butter over the top, and bake until evenly 
browned in a quick oven. 

Artichoke Chips. 
Take four or five artichokes ; wash, peel and cut them into 
dice. Throw them into cold water for a minute or two, then 
dry thoroughly. Have ready in a frying-pan sufficient boiling 
fat to cover the artichokes. Put them in, and fry a golden 
brown. Drain them well in front of the fire, sprinkle with salt 
and serve. 

Artichoke Fritters. 
Use cold cooked artichokes, cut in thick slices. Dip in bat- 
ter, and fry a golden brown. 



124 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Stuffed Artichokes. 
Take the cooked artichoke bottoms and fill them with mashed 
potato, flavored with cheese. Brown in the oven, and serve 
with cheese sauce, 

Bouchees d'Artichauts. 

Prepare green artichokes by cutting off the leaves close 
down to the fond, and trim off any that may adhere, cut off 
the stalk as closely as possible. Plunge the artichoke bottoms 
into boiling salted water, and leave them for five minutes, then 
take them out and remove the choke or fibrous part in the cen- 
ter. Place in boiling water and boil them until tender When 
cooked take them out, drain them, and put them through a 
sieve, season with pepper and salt, moistening the v\?hole with 
enough white sauce to make a puree. Have ready some pastry 
patty cases, ready cooked, fill each with the mixture and serve 
very hot. 

Eggs and Artichokes. 

Boil eight Jerusalem artichokes and cut them in slices, place 
them in a fireproof dish. Hard boil four eggs. When cold, 
shell them and chop them up, place the eggs on the top of the 
sliced artichokes, and pour over the whole a good white sauce 
flavored with Parmesan cheese. Dust over with breadcrumbs, 
and make thoroughly hot in the oven. 

Cream of Artichokes (Hot or Cold.) 

Boil one pound of Jerusalem artichokes until quite tender, 
then pass them through a sieve. Make a custard with half a 
pint of milk and the yolks of four eggs, pepper and salt. 
Whisk up the white of one egg, and stir this into the custard, 
mix it with the artichoke, and place all in a buttered mold, 
and steam for an hour. Serve hot with tomato or curry sauce, 
or set the mold on ice, and when quite cold turn out on to a 
dish, and serve with iced mayonnaise or hollandaise sauce. 

Scooped Jerusalem Artichokes. 

Scoop with a round cutter twenty-four pieces of artichoke, 
of the size of half an inch in diameter, wash, and put them in 
a small stewpan with half an ounce of butter and a quarter 
of an ounce of sugar; place on a slow fire for a few minutes, 
add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, six of white broth or 
milk, let them simmer till tender, skim, mix a yolk of an egg 
with two tablespoonfuls of milk, pour in stewpan, and move 
it round very quick, and serve; it must not be too thick, and 



STANDARD COOKERY. 125 

the artichokes must be well done; they must not be in puree; 
they are good with or served under any white meat. 

Artichokes with Cheese. 

Wash and peel the artichokes, and place them in cold salted 
water, then put them in a pan full of boiling salted water. 
Boil for twenty minutes. (If the artichokes are old they 
should be put into cold water, which must be brought to the 
boil, and kept so until they are cooked.) Take the artichokes 
out and drain them, cut into pieces, then place them in a fire- 
proof dish, covering them with a good white sauce. Sprinkle 
with grated cheese. Place in a moderate oven, and bake about 
ten or fifteen minutes, until of a golden brown. 

Boiled Asparagus. 

Cut the stalks of a bundle of fresh asparagus evenly, and 
tie them up into a bunch, put them upright into a pan just 
large enough to hold them comfortably and with boiling water 
to within about three inches of the tops. Keep them on the 
fire for from thirty to forty minutes, then lift them out, drain 
well, remove the string and dish up on a napkin or square of 
toast. Treated in this way, the heads are not apt to come oft, 
and the stalks, instead of being tough, are quite tender. 

Asparagus with Nut Gravy. 

•Cut the young, green, small asparagus diagonally into equal 
lengths (like French beans), and cook lightly in fat; when 
slightly crisped, season with white pepper, salt, minced parsley 
and chervil, and add a little stock; simmer gently till cooked. 
Now add a spoonful or so of nutril, and serve. The great 
secret of this dish is only to put in enough stock in the first 
instance to cook the asparagus, for it should all be absorbed 
by the time you add the nutril. 

Vol Au Vent of Asparagus and Eggs. 

Cut up two dozen or so heads of cooked asparagus into 
small pieces, and mix in a stewpan with the well-beaten yolks 
of two raw eggs. Flavor with pepper and salt and stir freely. 
Add a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, and continue stir- 
ring for two minutes. Serve in a vol au vent case of pastry. 
Mushrooms, tomatoes, or green peas may be served in the 
same way. 

Asparagus Stew. 

Cut the tender part of asparagus into small pieces and cook 
in salted water. Now mince finely some parsley, spring onions, 



126 STANDARD COOKERY. 

and lettuce leaves. Place these in a stewpan with butter, a 
little water. Simmer gently until cooked, add the asparagus 
and serve at once. 

Asparagus and Cheese. 
Take the tender parts of asparagus and boil them in salted 
water. Now take a shallow baking dish and spread upon it a 
layer of grated cheese and butter. Upon this spread a layer 
of the cooked asparagus and so on alternately, having a layer 
of cheese and butter on the top. Place in the oven and bake 
until browned. 

Croustades of Broad Bean. 

Shell the beans and drop into boiling salted water. Boil 
gently from fifteen minutes to half an hour. When tender 
pour the water away, and shake them in the saucepan over 
the fire with a little butter, or cream, pepper and salt; serve 
about six beans in a case of fried bread, and pour a little 
parsley sauce over. 

Beans and Wine. 

Soak half a pound of dried beans overnight; the red are 
the best but haricot beans will do. After draining, place them 
in an enameled saucepan with an ounce of butter, a minced 
onion, one clove, a bouquet garni, and just enough clear stock 
to cover. Simmer slowly until the beans are tender but dry. 
After removing the bunch of herbs add half a teacupful of 
Burgundy or claret, a little pepper and salt, make very hot, and 
serve at once. 

French Beans with Cheese Sauce. 

Cook the beans in the usual way, by throwing them in boil- 
ing salted water, in which a teaspoonful of sugar has been 
placed. If young, cook them whole, only removing the spines 
and pointed end, or if stock is used, place them in a pan which 
has been buttered, sprinkle with salt, and just cover them with 
stock. When tender place them on a hot dish, make a white 
sauce, with one-half ounce of butter and one-half ounce of 
flour, mixed with one-half pint of the stock in which the beans 
have been cooked, add a good pinch of salt and stir well, 
adding one well beaten egg and two tablespoonfuls of finely- 
grated cheese. Do not let the sauce boil after the egg has 
been added or it will curdle. Pour round the beans and serve. 

French beans can also be served with Bechamel sauce or 
quite plainly with a small quantity of butter melted and run 



STANDARD COOKERY. 127 

over them, with a shake of pepper and salt, or again with a 
plain melted butter sauce. 

Boiled Cabbage. 
Cut a good head of cabbage into very thin shreds and boil 
rapidly in plenty of water for a quarter of an hour. Now 
pour off the water, add sufficient milk to just cover the cab- 
bage, a sprinkling of pepper and salt, and a blade of mace, 
and simmer until the cabbage is thoroughly tender, by which 
time the milk should be practically all boiled away or ab- 
sorbed by the cabbage. Stir in a little butter just before serv- 
ing. 

Cabbage and Egg. 

Remove the outer leaves and stalk of a tender cabbage and 
shred the remainder as finely as possible. Melt an ounce of 
butter in a frying pan, adding two or three tablespoonfuls of 
boiling water, and then put in the shredded cabbage. Season 
with pepper and salt and cook gently until the cabbage is quite 
tender. 

Next add a well-beaten egg and cook slowly for three or four 
minutes, continually stirring the mixture. Now add a quarter 
of a pint of sour cream, make thoroughly hot and serve quickly. 

Curried Cabbage. 

Take all the outer leaves off a young cabbage, and boil the 
rest until half cooked. Drain it and chop it finely, place it 
in a pan with some curry sauce, and simmer it gently for one 
hour. Serve in a border of boiled rice. The outer leaves of 
the cabbage may be saved for the stock pot. 

Cabbage with Cheese Sauce. 
Boil a cabbage, cut it in eight pieces, then place it in one 
pint of cheese sauce, and make it thoroughly hot, and serve 
with the sauce poured over it. 

Cabbage a la Creme. 

Drain a boiled cabbage, cut it up small, put it into a sauce- 
pan with one ounce of butter, one gill of cream, and a season- 
ing of pepper and salt; stir all together over the fire, till 
thoroughly hot, then turn out on to a hot dish, and serve with 
fried croiJtons. 

Stewed Cabbage. 

Wash a large cabbage thoroughly, blanch in boiling water, 
and then place it in a large saucepan containing boiling water, 
to which about half an ounce of salt and a small piece of com- 



128 STANDARD COOKERY. 

mon soda have been added, and let boil (leaving off the lid 
of the pan) until the cabbage is tender, but not enough to 
break. Take it out of the pan and plunge it into a basin of 
cold salted vi^ater and leave it until it is quite cold, and then 
drain it on a clean cloth. Fry a teaspoonful of chopped onion 
for five minutes, draw the pan to the side of the stove, and 
place the cabbage (cut into quarters) in it; pour. in sufficient 
stock (or milk and water will do) to cover it, season with 
salt and pepper, and let the whole simmer for half an hour. 
Take out the cabbage and put it into a colander, and stand the 
latter on a plate in the oven. Thicken the sauce, strain it, 
and add a dessertspoonful of chopped parsley; put the cab- 
bage on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish it with 
small triangular pieces of fried bread. 

Baked Cabbage. 

Boil a large cabbage until tender and then chop it coarsely. 
Rub a fireproof baking dish with a little butter and place in it 
a layer of the cabbage. Over this pour a little white sauce, 
sprinkle freely with grated cheese, and season with pepper and 
salt. Repeat this process till the dish is full, covering the top 
with a thin layer of breadcrumbs, upon which should be placed 
a few tiny bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven for half 
an hour. 

Remains of cold cabbage and other vegetables can be used 
up in this way, a very savory dish being prepared of mixed 
cooked vegetables. 

Cabbage with Cream. 
Chop a small cold boiled cabbage and let it drain well. Now 
mix in two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, four tablespoonfuls 
of cream or good milk, and a little pepper and salt. Warm in 
a saucepan, stirring frequently, and then add two whisked 
eggs. Place the whole in a buttered stewpan and stir over the 
fire until very hot and lightly browned. 

Stewed Cabbage. 
Remove the outer leaves and scoop out the heart of a large 
parboiled cabbage. Stuff with a forcemeat made of minced 
odds and ends of meat or fish, a little bacon, breadcrumbs, or 
cold boiled rice, bound with the yolks of two eggs and sea- 
soned with onion, herbs, etc., to taste. Tie up the cabbage 
neatly, place it in an earthenware cooking pot or enameled 
stewpan, and simmer in water, or better still, in good stock 
for an hour. Carefully remove the string from the cabbage 



STANDARD COOKERY. 129 

before serving and pour over it the strained stock. If the cab- 
bage has been cooked in water, any good sauce may be sub- 
stituted for the stock. 

Fried potatoes or potato croquettes can be served with this 
dish. 

Sauerkraut. 

A dish dear to the heart of our German cousins, and one 
which involves very Httle trouble in preparation, and is more- 
over, very wholesome. 

Take three large cabbages, shred thoroughly and place in a 
wooden tub with a cupful of water, an ounce of salt, and half 
a teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Thoroughly mix and cover 
closely, placing a weight upon the cover. Keep thus for about 
three weeks in a moderately warm place, during which a slight 
fermentation will take place. 

At the end of this time it should be cooked gently for sev- 
eral hours, and may be served with slices of boiled bacon or 
sausages. 

Red Cabbage and Apples. 

Place in, an enameled saucepan a red cabbage with just 
enough water to cover it. Add four or five peeled and cored 
apples, a little butter, two cloves and pepper and salt. Now 
cook slowly for at least three hours. Just before serving stir 
into the sauce a spoonful of vinegar. 

Carrots a la Flamande. 
Take about twelve young carrots, blanch and rub off skins. 
Now put them into a stewpan with one ounce of butter, a salt- 
spoonful of castor sugar, some finely minced parsley, a season- 
ing of pepper and salt, and sufificient water to cover well ; 
allow to simmer for fifteen to twenty minutes, when they 
should be quite tender, shaking them once or twice in the 
process. Remove the pan from the fire, and stir in the yolk 
of one egg, beaten up with two tablespoonfuls of cream or new 
milk and serve very hot. 

Glazed Carrots. 

Blanch some small young carrots, as uniform in size as pos- 
sible, and dry them well; put them into a pan with just enough 
stock to cover, and a lump of loaf sugar; boil quickly till the 
stock is reduced to a glaze, then add to this one and a half 
ounces of butter, and a seasoning of salt and stir them in 
this till the liquid is all absorbed, and the carrots are quite 
glazed with the butter. Serve hot. 



130 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Stewed Carrots. 

Take a bunch of young carrots, and after scraping thor- 
oughly cut into neat pieces and boil for ten minutes in salted 
water. After draining, place the carrots in a stewpan with 
an ounce of butter, a little grated nutmeg, a couple of pinches 
of castor sugar, and a little pepper and salt. Sprinkle over 
them a dessertspoonful of flour and fry gently for a few min- 
utes, frequently shaking the stewpan. Now add half a pint 
of white stock and simmer for twenty minutes, stirring and 
skimming frequently. 

As soon as the carrots are quite tender stir in the beaten 
yolks of two eggs and a tablespoonful of good cream. Keep 
stirring over the fire until the whole is blended, but not to 
boil; then serve on a hot dish. A few triangles of fried bread 
should be arranged round the carrots and the whole sprinkled 
with a little chopped parsley. 

Carrots and Peas, a la Creme. 

Scrape and wash some young carrots, blanch and drain them 
on a cloth. Put one ounce of butter into a small stewpan, and 
when it has melted add the carrots, season them with salt and 
pepper, and a pinch of sugar, and allow to simmer for six 
minutes, then cover with thick white sauce, and let them cook 
slowly until they are quite tender. Just before taking the 
stewpan from the fire, add a squeeze of lemon juice to the 
sauce, two tablespoonfuls of cooked green peas, and two tea- 
spoonfuls of grated cheese; place the carrots on a hot dish, 
and scatter a little finely-chopped parsley over them. 

To Cook Cauliflower. 
Let the cauliflower be thoroughly washed, and then soaked 
in water to which salt and vinegar have been added, to free it 
from any insects which may not have been discovered. Blanch 
and then place it in a basin of cold water; when it has cooled, 
drain and plunge it (with the flower downwards) into a sauce- 
pan containing fresh boiling salted water, to which a pinch of 
borax and three or four lumps of sugar have been added; 
keep the water boiling steadily while the cauliflower is cook- 
ing, but do not put on the cover of the pan, and remove the 
scum from time to time, to prevent it adhering to the cauli- 
flower. When cooked, place it carefully on a clean cloth in a 
colander, cover the sides of the cloth over the top, and leave 
the cauliflower near the fire to drain; after which serve. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 131 

Curried Cauliflower. 
Boil two cauliflowers carefully without breaking the heads. 
Take the flower part and arrange neatly in a deep dish. Fry 
one medium-sized onion (cut in slices) in clarified fat until 
brown, mix in a dessertspoonful of flour and three-quarters 
of a dessertspoonful of curry powder, and three parts of a tum- 
blerful of weak stock; boil for ten minutes, strain, and pour 
over the cauliflowers. 

Cauliflower Croutons. 

Make the required number of bread croutons and fry. Take 
one spray of cooked cauliflower for each croOton and place it 
in the hollow in the center. Pour a cheese sauce over very 
neatly and serve very hot. 

Aigrettes of Cauliflower. 

Boil a cauliflower in plently of salted water to which a little 
vinegar and a pinch of sugar have been added; drain it well, 
and when cold divide it into sprigs. Put one ounce of butter 
into a saucepan containing half a pint of water; as soon as it 
boils, stir in a half a pound of flour and continue stirring un- 
til a stiff paste is formed, which leaves the sides of the pan 
without sticking to them, then remove the pan from the stove, 
and when the paste has cooled a little stir in two whole eggs 
(beaten), and three ounces of grated cheese, and spread the 
paste on a plate to cool. Take one sprig of cauliflower at a 
time and envelop it in the paste, place in a frying basket, and 
drop it into some hot fat which is not actually boiling, and fry 
until the aigrettes are just brown, taking care not to put too 
many into the basket at once. Serve them piled upon a dish 
with a little grated cheese sprinkled over them. Many cooked 
vegetables can be served in this way such as artichokes, sea- 
kale, celery, and beetroots. 

Cauliflower with Onion Sauce. 
Boil the cauliflower and place in a fireproof dish. Cover 
with onion sauce, sprinkle with brown crumbs and make very 
hot in the oven. Serve very hot. 

Cauliflower Fritters. 
Break a cooked cauliflower up into neat pieces, dip these 
in frying batter till well covered, and fry in boiling fat. Drain 
them well, sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese and coralline 
pepper. Serve at once on a napkin. This is an excellent way 
of using up cold cauliflower. 



132 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Cauliflower Au Gratin. 
Boil the cauliflower, place it in a fireproof dish, pour over it 
an ample quantity of cheese sauce, sprinkle with grated cheese, 
and brown crumbs and bake until slightly brown on the top. 

Cauliflower with Tomato Sauce. 

Clean and soak the cauliflower in salt and cold water for 
one hour, then plunge it into boiling water, returning it again 
to cold water. After this, put it in a pan of boiling water 
slightly salted (half an ounce of salt to one gallon of water) 
and boil it until tender, say for about twenty to twenty-five 
minutes. In the meantime, make half a pint of tomato puree, 
and when the cauliflower is cooked, place it on a dish, pour 
the puree over it, sift some finely grated brown crumbs over it, 
and serve. 

Cauliflower Fritters. 

Take a large parboiled cauliflower, and after draining 
divide carefully into branches. Dip each into a batter made 
with a tablespoonful of flour, half a cupful of milk, the 
whipped yolk of an egg, and an ounce of butter, with a little 
pepper and salt. Fry each branch carefully in boiling fat, and 
drain before serving. 

Fried Celery. 

Remove the leaves from three sticks of celery and cut them 
into equal lengths. Place these in a stewpan with two or three 
slices of ham and the same quantity of bacon, half a pint of 
stock, and a little pepper and salt. Simmer gently for a quar- 
ter of an hour, or a little longer if the celery is large. When 
cool, take out the pieces of celery, dip them first in beaten 
eggs, and then in breadcrumbs, and fry in butter. Tomato 
sauce should be served with the dish. 

Stuffed Cucumbers. 
Peel and split lengthwise some thick cucumbers, carefully 
scoop out the seeds, and stuff with a mixture made of chopped 
chicken or lamb, cold boiled rice, and herbs, moistened with 
white stock. Bring the halves together and place in an earth- 
enware cooking pot or enameled stewpan, add a cupful of 
milk or white stock, and stew very gently until quite tender. 
Remove the cucumbers, thicken the sauce with a little flour 
and butter, the yolk of an egg, and the juice of a lemon. Strain 
carefully, add a tablespoonful of capers and some chopped 
parsley, and pour it over the cucumbers before serving. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 133 

White Cucumber Sauce. 
Peel two cucumbers, divide each lengthwise into four, re- 
move the pips, and cut into pieces one inch long; add, in stew- 
pan, one ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, let stew on the fire for fifteen minutes, then 
add a gill of white sauce, six spoonfuls of milk, broth, or 
water, simmer gently and skim ; add a tablespoonful of liaison, 
and serve where directed. Remember, however, that these 
garnitures ought to be served under the meat and over poultry. 

White Cucumber Puree. 
Peel two small or one large cucumber; cut in slices, put in 
the stewpan with the same vegetables, etc., as for cauliflower; 
when tender, add a tablespoonful of flour, three gills of milk or 
broth, boil, finishing as the cauliflower. 

To Cook Corn. 
Open a small can of corn and strain off the liquid; then 
simmer the corn until tender, but not " pulpy " in three table- 
spoonfuls of milk, half an ounce of butter, pepper and salt. 
About ten minutes will suffice for the cooking. 

Curried Corn. 

Prepare the corn as before and heat in a good curry sauce. 
Pile in the center of a hot dish, and surround with boiled rice, 
garnished with strained yolk of egg. 

Corn and Omelette. 
Prepare the omelette as usual and have ready some corn 
heated in white sauce. Just before serving the omelette spread 
the inner portion with the hot corn. 

Corn Rissoles. 

Take the cooked corn and beat it in white, cheese, or to- 
mato sauce, and then leave until cold. Form into rissoles, egg 
and crumb and fry. Serve very hot, garnished with fried 
parsley. 

Corn Au Gratin. 
Cook the corn as before, and have ready some white sauce. 
Heat a fireproof dish, butter it, and sprinkle with some fine 
brown crumbs. Heat the corn in the sauce and place it in the 
dish, cover with cheese and crumbs, and bake for twenty min- 
utes in a hot oven. 

Com with Buttered Eggs. 
Have ready the buttered egg, and pile it in the center of a 



134 STANDARD COOKERY. 

hot fireproof dish, surround with the cooked corn and garnish 
with small circles of fried bread. 

Egg and Corn Toast. 

Prepare the egg and corn, stir them together, and serve very 
hot on buttered toast. 

Com Fritters. 

Take half a can of corn, two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of 
flour, one tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, seasoning 
to taste. Drain the corn into a bowl ; stir in the flour care- 
fully, add the parsley, season, and lastly, well beat the eggs 
and stir those in. Have ready some boiling fat in a frying- 
pan, into which the batter should be dropped in dessertspoon- 
fuls. Dra:in on kitchen paper, and serve at once on a hot 
dish. 

Haricot Beans. 

Haricot beans must be soaked for quite twelve hours in 
cold water, then put into a pan with cold water slightly salted 
(half an ounce of salt to one gallon of water), brought slowly 
to the boil, then drawn to side of fire, and simmered for about 
two hours. 

Haricot Beans with Tomato Puree. 

Cook the beans as above, and serve, covered with some to- 
mato puree. 

Haricot Beans a la Milanaise. 

Cook the beans as usual and serve with a covering of sauce 
a la Milanaise, which should be made in the following man- 
ner: — Blanch four onions, then dry and cut them up, place 
them in a saucepan with a pinch of sugar, one ounce of butter 
and a small spoonful of salt. Boil a tablespoonful of rice, 
and when cooked add it to the onion ; moisten with one-half 
pint of milk or water, cook slowly, stirring occasionally; when 
the onions are soft add one tablespoonful of finely-grated 
cheese. Mix well, and pass through a sieve, add to this one- 
half pint of white sauce, mix thoroughly, repeat, and pour 
over the beans. 

Lentils. 

Soak the lentils for at least twelve hours in cold water. 
Then drain and place them in a pan with cold salted water 
(one gallon of water to one-half ounce of salt), bring them to 
the boil and then simmer until the lentils are quite soft, say 



STANDARD COOKERY. 135 

for about one hour. After having been cooked like this they 
can be served as advised for haricot beans or plain, save for 
the addition of a pat of butter melting among them, a sprinkling 
of chopped parsley, and a soupcon of pepper and salt. 

Lentil Fritters. 
Take four ounces of cooked lentils, two ounces of bread- 
crumbs, one braised onion, one egg, celery salt, and pepper. 
Mix well. Take up pieces about the size of a walnut, and fry 
a golden brown. 

Broiled Mushrooms. 
Skin the mushrooms and cut off the stalks'; place them on a 
greased tin, sprinkle with butter, pepper and salt and cook in 
the oven or before the fire. Pour off the liquor from the 
mushrooms, make some toast and spread with butter, and then 
pour the mushroom liquor over. Place the mushrooms on the 
toast and serve very hot. 

Mushrooms on Toast with Devonshire Cream. 
Make a number of croiitons of lightly fried bread and choose 
a like number of mushrooms the same size as the croutons. 
Peel the mushrooms, rinse them in warm water to remove any 
grit, and remove the stalks. Place them on a greased baking 
sheet, stalk side uppermost. Put some small pieces of butter 
on each mushroom, and a little pepper and salt. Cover with 
buttered paper, and cook in a moderate oven from ten to 
twenty minutes. Serve a mushroom on each croiiton, and on 
each mushroom place a spoonful of clotted Devonshire cream. 

Blanched Mushrooms. 

Get a punnet of fresh mushrooms, remove the stalks (re- 
serving them for chopping), wash the heads in a bowl of clean 
water, and drain in a sieve; put into a stewpan two wine- 
glasses of cold water, and a little salt; peel each head neatly, 
and put them into the stewpan immediately, or they will turn 
black; set your stewpan on a brisk fire, let them boil quickly 
five minutes, put them into a bowl ready for use; chop the 
stalks, and peel very fine, put them into stewpan with three 
tablespoonfuls of the liquor the mushrooms have been boiled 
in ; let them simmer three minutes, put them into a jar, and 
use where indicated. Peeling mushrooms is an art that prac- 
tice alone can attain ; if they are very fresh and white, wash 
them quickly and wipe them on a cloth ; throw them into the 
liquid above-mentioned. 



126 STANDARD COOKERY. 

White Mushroom Sauce. 

Use small white ones; cut the dark part out and remove the 
stalk, wash in several waters, put in a stewpan with a little 
butter, salt, pepper, juice of lemon, saute it for a few minutes, 
add a gill of white sauce, four tablespoonfuls of broth, milk, 
or water; boil, and serve under any white meat. 

Mushroom Croutes. 

Cut some rounds of bread about three-quarters of an inch 
thick and scoop them out rather thinner in the center, fry un- 
til a golden brown, drain, and keep hot. Place the required 
number of mushrooms on a greased baking-tin with a piece of 
butter in each, and place in the oven to cook. In the mean- 
time, mince one or two mushrooms and place them in a pan 
with a small quantity of good brown sauce. When cooked 
place a spoonful on each croute, and a whole mushroom on the 
top of each. Serve very hot. 

Mushrooms Au Gratin. 
Peel the mushrooms and cut off their stalks, and place the 
heads in a buttered fireproof dish. Peel the stalks and wash 
them, add the peeling, dry them and cut them up. Make a 
sauce with one ounce of butter and when melted add half an 
ounce of flour, stirring into it half a pint of milk. Stir well, 
bring to the boil, and then throw in the chopped stalks, a 
dessertspoonful of finely chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of finely 
chopped onion, a dusting of pepper and half a teaspoonful of 
salt. Simmer the sauce until it thickens, strain and add some 
browning. Pour the sauce over the mushrooms, sprinkle some 
browned breadcrumbs over the whole, and bake in a quick oven 
for ten minutes. 

Mushrooms and Tomatoes, Baked. 

Put the required number of small tomatoes on a baking-tin, 
greased with butter or dripping. Sprinkle over them a little 
pepper and salt and cover them with greased paper. Place in 
a moderate oven for about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour. 
Serve between rows of baked mushrooms. 

Stewed Mushrooms. 

Peel and rinse the mushrooms and cut off the ends of the 
stalks. Stew them gently in water, stock, or milk until quite 
tender, adding pepper and salt to taste. Then thicken the 
gravy with a little flour and let it cook well, stirring carefully. 
Before serving, stir in a little cream or butter and send to 



STANDARD COOKERY. 137 

table on buttered toast; or as a surround to a dish of rice 
boiled in vegetable stock. 

Baked Mushrooms. 
Peel the mushrooms, rinse them to remove any grit, and cut 
off the ends of the stalks. Put them on a greased baking- 
tin with the stalk side upwards, and with little bits of butter 
on each mushroom, with a little pepper and salt. Cover them 
with buttered paper, and bake in a moderate oven from ten to 
twenty minutes, until tender. Serve on buttered toast on a 
hot dish, with the gravy poured over them. 

Stuffed Mushrooms. 

Take about a dozen good-size cup mushrooms and after peel- 
ing and removing the stalks let them soak for an hour in 
salted water. In the meantime mince two ounces of cooked 
tongue or ham and two shallots. Fry the shallots in some 
butter till a golden color. Add the meat and a small French 
roll previously soaked in milk and thoroughly mashed. Mix 
the whole thoroughly, adding a little chopped parsley, grated 
nutmeg, and pepper and salt, and bind with the yolks of two 
or three eggs. 

With this mixture fill the hollows of the mushrooms and 
place them on a greased plate or baking-tin. Cover with a 
sheet of oiled paper and bake in a quick oven for about ten 
minutes. 

Now let them get cold. Dip each stuffed mushroom in or- 
dinary frying batter and fry in oil or good dripping until a 
golden color. 

The fat must be carefully drained from them before serving. 

Mushrooms and Eggs. 
Cook slowly one pound of sliced mushrooms until tender in 
just sufficient white stock to cover them, adding a little butter, 
onion, herbs, and seasoning to taste. Press the whole through 
a sieve and pile upon a plate, covering carefully with poached 
eggs. Sprinkle with a little pepper and salt before serving. 

Stuffed Vegetable Marrow. 

Take a large but young vegetable marrow, split lengthwise, 
scoop out the seeds and rub in some salt. Take half a pound 
of savory rice, season this with salt, pepper, and chopped 
parsley. Mix all well together and lay inside the marrow, 
tying the two sides together with broad tape. Boil very 
slowly for about an hour or more, according to size, in just 



138 STANDARD COOKERY. 

enough water to prevent burning. Serve covered with white 
sauce, or with tomato or curry sauce. 

Fried Vegetable Marrow. 
Stew a vegetable marrow in weak stock, then stamp into 
neat rounds; drain dry, dip them into beaten egg and bread- 
crumbs, and fry a golden brown. 

Vegetable Marrow Au Gratin. 
Take the remains of a vegetable marrow which has been 
boiled, cut it into rather thin slices and lay in a shallow fire- 
proof dish, add a little butter or dripping, and season well; 
cover with raspings and a little grated cheese, and brown well 
before quick fire. 

Vegetable Marrow Fritters. 

Use cold cooked vegetable marrow cut in squares, dip in 
batter and fry a golden brown. 

A Useful Hint About Onions. 

Many people refrain from eating onions on account of their 
disagreeable effect. If the following is tried, it will be found, 
probably, that they may be eaten with impunity. Before 
using onions for any purpose, either for cooking or for salads, 
peel them and put them in a bowl of cold water (in which a 
piece of soda the size of a hazel-nut has been dissolved), for 
about ten minutes. Then take them out and wash in fresh 
water. The soda will have withdrawn all that makes them 
objectionable, without impairing their flavor. 

To Fry Onions. 

Put as many peeled onions as are required into a sauce- 
pan containing cold salted water; let the water boil up and 
continue boiling for seven minutes, then drain the onions and 
put them aside util they are cool. Slice them with a sharp 
knife, and separate them into rings, and roll them up in a 
floured cloth until it is time to fry them. Have ready a 
saucepan containing plenty of boiling fat, place the onion rings 
— not too many at a time — in a wire f rying-basket, and cook 
them until they are crisp and of a golden brown; drain on 
paper, and serve very hot. 

Onions Stuffed. 

Peel twelve large onions, cut a piece off at the top and 
bottom to give them a flat appearance, blanch and lay them 
on a cloth to dry; take the middle out of each onion, and 



STANDARD COOKERY. 139 

fill with veal forcemeat (with a little chopped shallot parsley, 
and mushroom, mixed in it), and put them in a saucepan 
well buttered; cover with white broth, and allow to simmer 
over a slow fire until covered with a glaze, and tender; turn 
them over, and serve where required. 

Onions Puree with Poached Eggs. 

Fry some onions in thin slices and chop them fine ; drain 
well, and simmer them in stock until they can be sieved. 
When quite smooth, replace in the pan, and add a little nutril, 
and boil for a few minutes, stirring constantly. The puree 
should be quite thick. Serve very hot, with poached eggs 
on the top, and garnish with fried croutons. 

Spanish Onions Au Gratin. 

Boil one pound of Spanish onions, throwing away the water 
after it first comes to the boil, and adding fresh. Well butter 
a fireproof dish, and arrange the boiled onions in it. Fill up 
the crevices, and cover the top with browned breadcrumbs 
and grated cheese, moisten with little milk, season well, and 
over all place a layer of breadcrumbs with little dabs of but- 
ter. Bake until a nice color. 

Spanish Onions en Surprise. 

Put some Spanish onions, which have been peeled and 
washed, into a saucepan containing plenty of cold salted water; 
when the water boils up draw the pan to the side of the stove, 
and let them cook gently until they are parboiled. Drain 
the onions and carefully remove the middles : place some 
savory rice in each, pressing it well into the onion, put them 
on a baking-tin which has been rubbed with some good butter 
or beef dripping, and surround them with small pieces of fat, 
cover the onions with greased paper, and let them cook slowly 
in a moderately-heated oven for four hours, basting them fre- 
quently. Serve with thick tomato sauce. 

Stuffed Onions. 

Remove the centers from six large parboiled onions and 
mince these with six mushrooms, two tablespoonfuls of sausage 
meat, a cupful of breadcrumbs, four tablespoonfuls of capers, 
two pickled gherkins, and a little herbs, pepper, and salt to 
taste. Stir in about half a cupful of stewed tomatoes, fill the 
onions carefully with the mixture and bake for twenty min- 
utes. Any white savory sauce may be served with this dish. 



140 STANDARD COOKERY. 

To Mash Potatoes. 
To six good-sized cooked potatoes allow one ounce of butter, 
two tablcspoonfuls of cream, milk and cream mixed, or all 
milk. Salt and white pepper. Put the potatoes through a 
masher, melt the butter in the milk and cream, and beat 
thoroughly well together and make hot. 

New Potatoes. 
Place the potatoes in a bowl of cold water, and leave them 
for a few minutes ; then rub or scrape off the skin. Place in 
cold water in a saucepan with some salt and sprig of mint, 
and boil gently for twenty minutes, drain and dry. Put into the 
dish with a tiny piece of butter on each potato. 

Curried Potatoes. 
Slice some hot boiled potatoes, and pour over them a curry 
sauce. 

Little Potato Pies. 

Mash some potato with plenty of egg sauce, flavor with 
salt and pepper, add either grated cheese, two tablcspoonfuls 
of tomato puree or the same quantity of onion puree. Place 
in little fireproof china pans and bake until top is lightly 
browned. 

Stuffed Potatoes. 
Bake the required number of large potatoes, all of a size 
and shape. Cut off a slice lengthwise and scoop out most 
of the interior. Mash this removed portion with plenty of 
egg sauce and season with salt and pepper. Pipe the edges 
of the potato cases with mashed potato and make thoroughly 
hot. 

SoufHe Potatoes. 

Wash some large potatoes, and bake them without removing 
the skins until they are thoroughly cooked. Cut a small piece 
off the top of each, and with the handle of a teaspoon scoop 
out the inside; mash this carefully with a fork, or pass it 
through a potato masher; add a little milk, a piece of butter, 
and season with pepper and salt; beat the potato until it is 
light and creamy. Fill the skins with the mixture. When 
ready put the potatoes on a baking sheet, and place in a quick 
oven for ten or fifteen minutes. 

A Savory Potato Dish. 

Rub a fireproof china dish with onion, then butter it, and 



STANDARD COOKERY. 141 

sift breadcrumbs lightly over. Slice some cold boiled potatoes 
into this, place a few bits of butter over, a seasoning of white 
pepper and salt, and a few white breadcrumbs. Repeat this 
until the dish is full, then cover with fine breadcrumbs to 
which has been added one-fourth of the quantity of grated 
cheese. Bake for twenty minutes in a quick oven, and serve 
with finely-chopped capers scattered over. 

Potato and Tomato Savory, 
Take some cold cooked potatoes and cut in slices; peel the 
same quantity of tomatoes; remove the hard center. Arrange 
in alternate layers in a stewpan in which three ounces of but- 
ter has been melted, and sprinkle with pepper, salt, and pars- 
ley. Cook gently for ten minutes, stirring now and then. 
When thoroughly hot, serve with croutons of fried bread. 

Potatoes and Eggs Au Gratin. 

Take six or seven baked or boiled potatoes and cut them 
in slices, and slice two hard-boiled eggs. Place them in layers 
in a baking dish, sprinkle each layer with grated cheese. Pour 
over four ounces of melted butter or white sauce, and put into 
a slow oven until hot. Brown on the top. 

Potato Pyramids. 

Take about six cooked potatoes, mashed with just sufficient 
milk to enable the potato to be formed into small pyramids; 
neatly arrange these on a fireproof dish, score the outside of 
the cones, sprinkle with white pepper and salt, and then with 
grated cheese. Pour over all some melted butter and cook in 
a slow oven until quite hot. Serve at once in the same dish 
with onion puree poured round. 

Potato Balls with Cheese Flavoring. 
Take some cooked potatoes, crumble and flavor with grated 
cheese, salt and pepper, and add sufficient milk to make the 
mixture moist and smooth; form into balls, fry and serve 
powdered with grated cheese. Garnish with fried parsley. 

Potato and Rice Cakes. 
Take any remains of mashed potatoes and add half the 
quantity of boiled rice, mix them all together with a little 
butter, season well with pepper, salt and cayenne. Roll out 
on a floured board to about an inch and a half thickness, cut 
into rounds or squares with a cutter. Brush over with beaten 
tgg, and bake in a hot oven. 



142 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Potato Mold. 

Mash one pound of well-boiled potatoes with the same quan- 
tity of boiled mashed carrots; pass through a fine wire sieve, 
mix all well together with warm milk, and an ounce of butter; 
place in a buttered mold, and set in a hot oven for ten min- 
utes; turn out on a hot dish, and brown in the oven. Serve 
with curry, tomato or chutney sauce. 

Potato Cromeskies, with Mushroom. 

Have ready some mushrooms stewed in white sauce (the 
mushrooms cut into small pieces). Make some smoothed 
mashed potato and add to it a beaten yolk of egg. Form balls 
of the potato. Hollow out a place in each, fill with the mush- 
room mixtures. Cover with more potato; egg, crumb, fry, and 
serve very hot. 

Potato and Cabbage Cakes. 

Take some cold potato and cabbage, about equal quantities 
of both, mash smoothly together, adding beaten egg, white 
sauce, or melted butter to moisten. Flavor plentifully with 
pepper, add a little salt. Form into round cakes, flour and 
bake or fry. 

Rechauffe of New Potatoes. 

Put into a pan from half an ounce to one ounce of butter, 
add a good dessertspoonful of chives, with salt, pepper, and 
dust of nutmeg to taste; when the whole is smoothly blended, 
pour in sufficient cream or new milk and stir all together until 
it boils up, then add as many cold cooked and sliced new po- 
tatoes as you want, and allow them to heat thoroughly in the 
sauce without actually boiling, which would break them ; serve 
them with a dust of coralline pepper. 

Cream Potatoes. 
Having washed and peeled the number of potatoes required, 
cut them into very thin slices, and as much the same size as 
possible. Place them in cold water for half an hour, then 
drain them and dry on a soft clean cloth. Have ready a fire- 
proof dish with a closely-fitting lid, butter the bottom and 
sides of it, and place over all, after filling with potato, a layer 
of butter. 'Fix the lid on firmly, and place the dish in a mod- 
erate oven for three-quarters of an hour, when serve. 

Potato Croquettes. 

Take one pound of cold cooked potato and mash until all 
the lumps have disappeared, add a pat of butter and enough 



STANDARD COOKERY. 143 

milk or cream to make the potato soft and of the right con- 
sistency to form into balls. Add a tablespoon ful of chopped 
parsley, a very small quantity of chives (if liked), mix v^ell 
and form into balls. Coat them with eggs, roll them in finely- 
grated breadcrumbs, fry a golden brown, drain and serve. 

I Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. 

Select some waxy potatoes which have been boiled or 
steamed and allowed to become cold; cut them into dice- 
shaped pieces and flour them. Put some clarified drippings 
(about an ounce is sufficient for half a dozen medium-sized 
potatoes) into a frying pan, with a dessertspoonful of onion 
(which has been scalded and finely chopped) and the potatoes, 
and fry them till they are slightly browned, taking care to 
turn them constantly, so that they do not burn. Then pour 
into the pan a small quantity of stock or milk, and when it 
boils add salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of chopped pars- 
ley, and serve very hot. 

Potatoes a la Maitre d'Hotel. 

Boil some new potatoes, then slice them, and heat them 
with two ounces of butter, some minced parsley, a few drops 
of lemon juice, and a half teacupful of stock, salt and pepper. 

Puffed Potatoes. 

Peel the potatoes and cut them into slices about one-eighth 
of an inch in thickness. Cut each slice into half. Soak the 
potatoes in cold water for half an hour. Dry well by rolling 
them up in a cloth. Put plenty of clean fat into a stewpan 
and as soon as it is hot (not boiling) put in the potatoes (in 
a frying basket). Let them cook slowly until they are tender, 
but they must on no account be allowed to get brown. Put 
aside on paper to drain. When they have had time to coal, 
prepare a bath of boiling fat. Place some of the potatoes 
(not too many at a time) in a frying basket. Immerse them 
in the boiling fat, when they should puff up, and quickly be- 
come a golden brown. Remove the basket directly the pota- 
toes are ready. When all are done, sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, and serve at once. The secret of success lies in the 
two cookings, and the potatoes must be perfectly dry before 
cooking. 

Potato Ribbons. 

Wash, dry, and peel some large potatoes. Now pare them 
round and round into long strips. The strips should not be 



144 STANDARD COOKERY. 

too thin, or they will break. Place in a frying basket and 
drop into hot fat, and fry a delicate brown; drain and sprin- 
kle with salt, cayenne, and white pepper. 

Potatoes and Cheese. 

Beat two large eggs thoroughly, add three-quarters of a 
pint of milk, and season with a little pepper and salt. Next 
butter a large baking dish and put in first a layer of slices 
of cold potatoes. Sprinkle with grated cheese and a little 
pepper and salt and add carefully two tablespoonfuls of the 
eggs and milk. Repeat the process till the dish is full, letting 
the top layer be one of grated cheese. Bake in a moderate 
oven for half an hour and serve in the dish in which it is 
cooked. 

This is a simple and economical way of using up cold pota- 
toes. It makes an excellent supper dish. 

Boiled Potatoes. 

Cook the potatoes in their jackets in salted water, after 
which peel them, cut into slices and place on a dish. Pour 
over them a white sauce with capers, or gherkins cut into 
pieces about the size of capers. 

Potato Puff Balls. 

Take a cupful of crushed bread rusks with three cupfuls 
of mashed potatoes and mix with two well-beaten eggs. 
Flavor with chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg. 
If the mixture is not very stiff add a little more bread. Make 
into small balls and throw into boiling salted water, in which 
let them cook for a quarter of an hour, by which time they 
will have nearly doubled in size. 

Tomato sauce may be served with these. 

Dutch Fried Potatoes. 
Put a spoonful of chopped onion into a frying pan with 
sufficient butter, and let it brown. Then add two cupfuls of 
sliced raw potatoes, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and fry 
till they are lightly browned. Now beat up an egg, pour it 
over the potatoes, and serve at once. 

Potato Mold. 
Boil one pound of good floury potatoes and rub them through 
a hair sieve into a large bowl. While still hot work into the 
potatoes the yolks of four eggs and one ounce of grated 
Parmesan cheese, seasoning with a little pepper. Next melt 
two ounces of fresh butter and stir well into the potatoes. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 145 

afterwards adding the whisked whites of the four eggs. Mix 
very thoroughly and then place the whole in a buttered pud- 
ding mold which must be not quite filled. Tie a sheet of 
paper over the mold and bake for twenty-five minutes. 

Potato Puree. 

Although every English-woman knows how to prepare 
mashed potatoes it cannot be denied that French women turn 
out a superior article ; and it may, therefore, be of interest to 
describe the French mode of preparing this dish. 

Peel eight fairly large potatoes and cut into quarters. Then 
wash them and place in a saucepan with sufficient cold water 
to just cover. Sprinkle with a little salt and boil for half an 
hour. After draining rub the potatoes through a fine sieve 
and place in a sauecpan with a quarter of strong stock — a 
little meat extract will do — a suspicion of grated nutmeg, 
a little salt and white pepper, and an ounce of butter. Stir 
this briskly over the fire, for the lightness of the puree will de- 
pend mainly upon the vigor with which the stirring is done. 

When ready pile up the puree on a hot dish and serve it at 
once ; or the surface may be smoothed with the blade of a 
knife and brushed with beaten egg, after which the dish is 
baked for about fifteen minutes till the surface is nicely 
browned. 

Potato Pie. 

Mix together four boiled potatoes sliced, a tablespoonful of 
minced onion, the same quantity of chopped parsley, a little 
pepper and salt, and half a cupful of new milk. Stir thor- 
oughly and place in a dish. Over this spread a layer of bread- 
crumbs mixed with the yolk of an egg. Bake the whole thor- 
oughly. 

Pilgrim Potatoes. 
Mix together four tablespoonfuls of flour with a cupful of 
milk, a beaten egg, and a little parsley. To this add four 
sliced onions previously fried in butter. After stirring thor- 
oughly, slice six large boiled potatoes into the mixture, and 
add just enough milk to cover the whole. Sprinkle freely 
with breadcrumbs, a little nutmeg, and some chopped parsley, 
and bake until well browned. 

Green Peas Stewed. 

Put a pint of young peas, boiled very green, into a stewpan, 
with three tablespoonfuls of white sauce, two ounces of but' 



146 STANDARD COOKERY. 

ter, a little sugar and salt, and two button onions, with pars- 
ley, tied together; boil ten minutes; add two tablespoonfuls 
of liaison, stir in quickly, and serve. 

Green Peas with Bacon. 
Put a pint of well-boiled peas into a stewpan, with five 
spoonfuls of brown sauce, two of brown gravy a teaspoonful 
of sugar, two button onions, and a bunch of parsley; let it 
boil about ten minutes; have ready braised about a quarter 
of a pound of lean bacon, cut it in dice about a quarter of an 
inch square, add it to the peas, take out the onions and pars- 
ley, season with an ounce of butter, and half a teaspoonful of 
sugar; mix well together, stew twenty minutes, and serve. 

Puree of Green Peas. 

A good way to use rather hard peas. Boil the peas with 
mint, salt, and sugar, and when quite done, rub through a 
sieve, or, if too hard, pound in a mortar, mix with three ounces 
of butter (to one pint of peas), add white pepper, and add a 
little sap green if a bad color. Stir in a stewpan over a clear 
hot fire and serve in the center of a dish of nut cutlets, 
semolina cakes, etc. 

Peas a la Frangaise (Hot). 

Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan with a few sprigs 
of mint, half a peeled onion, and a couple of tablespoonfuls 
of milk or cream. Add the peas, cover the saucepan, and 
cook gently for half an hour or rather longer. When the 
peas are cooked, remove the onion and mint, and season with 
salt and pepper, and a dust of white sugar, and serve. 
Peas and Lettuce. 

Take four heads of lettuce which have previously been par- 
boiled in a quart of any kind of broth, and after removing 
the centers fill with a mixture of green peas and a little flour 
and minced onion. Tie each lettuce carefully and simmer for 
one hour in half a pint of white stock. Remove the strings, 
arrange the lettuces carefully on toast, and pour the sauce 
over all. 

Seakale with White Sauce. 

Tie it in bundles, and put into boiling salted water with 
a little butter. Boil, with the lid off the saucepan, until the 
seakale is tender. Drain and serve on toast. White sauce 
should be poured over it. Seakale is sometimes boiled in milk, 
which should afterwards be used for the sauce. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 147 

Fried Seakale. 

Boil the seakale, cut it into pieces of a convenient size, dip 
into flour, then pass it through egg and breadcrumbs, and fry 
until of a golden brown. 

Sorrel Sauce or Puree. 

Wash well four handfuls of sorrel, put it nearly dry into 
a middle-sized stewpan, with a little butter; let it melt, add 
a tablespoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, half one of 
pepper, moisten to a thick puree, with milk, or broth, or cream ; 
pass it through a sieve, put it back in a stewpan, warm again, 
add two whole eggs, two ounces of butter, and stir well, and 
serve where directed. 

Spinach Patties (Hot). 

Take one pound of spinach leaves pick and wash them well, 
and after blanching, drain them and place them in cold water, 
remove, press, and strain to get rid of as much moisture as 
possible. Chop them up, place in a double pan and cook by 
hot air, or put them into a stewpan with a pinch of salt and 
sugar, half an ounce of butter, and a quarter of an ounce of 
flour, and after stirring this for a few minutes longer, add 
the spinach. Stir for five minutes, then add a quarter of a 
pint of milk and stir this for a few minutes longer, and then 
add half a pint of milk, stirring steadily until the liquor is 
almost dried up. Remove from the pan and pass through a 
sieve, then return to the fire and add a small pat of butter 
and keep very hot. Have ready the required number of pastry 
patties. Quickly make some buttered egg, place some of the 
spinach in each case, with a spoonful of buttered egg on the 
top, and serve at once very hot. 

Spinach and Eggs. 

Cook two pounds of spinach by the hot air process, or boil 
it ; when it is well drained, pass it through a fine wire sieve. 
Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and when it is 
melted stir in the spinach. Season it with salt, pepper, and a 
pinch of powdered sugar, and add two tablespoonfuls of cream. 
Pile in a hot dish and decorate with sieved yolk of egg, quar- 
ters of hard-boiled egg, or arrange in a flat bed, and lay 
neatly poached eggs on the top, or arrange as a border with 
scrambled eggs in the center. 

Spinach with Cream. 

Wash the spinach in six or seven waters, to remove all 



148 STANDARD COOKERY. 

grit, put it in a saucepan on the fire with a very little water 
and salt ; when done, strain very dry and chop it up very fine. 
Warm two ounces of butter in a stewpan, put the spinach in, 
stir until the moisture quite evaporates, then add a very little 
salt, a tiny pinch of sugar (a very little nutmeg, if liked), 
a pinch of flour, and one large tablespoonful of cream, and 
let the whole simmer for a quarter of an hour. -Then put 
through a sieve and keep hot. In the meantime, fry in fat 
some bread cut into fingers, about two inches long and a quar- 
ter of an inch wide, and plant them in little rows all over the 
spinach when dished. 

Spinach cooked thus is delicious, and a very different mat- 
ter from the stringy green mass generally served. 

Spinach Pudding. 
Boil two pounds of spinach in the usual way, and after 
draining and cooling, chop and place it in an enameled sauce- 
pan with two ounces of butter, a quarter of a pint of stock, 
and half a pint of Bechamel sauce — made by simmering to- 
gether white stock, cream and herbs — and let the whole sim- 
mer for about five minutes. After cooling mix thoroughly 
with half a pound of forcemeat — preferably made of veal — 
the yolks of two eggs, and pepper and salt to taste. Fill a 
mold with the mixture and cook for half an hour. Before 
serving turn out the pudding on a dish and garnish with pieces 
of turnip, carrot, and potato cut into shapes. 

Spinach Fritters. 

Cook some spinach in the usual way, pass through a sieve 
and place in an earthenware cooking vessel with butter, salt, 
spices, a little sugar, and the zest of lemon. Mix the whole 
thoroughly over a gentle fire and then add a glass of milk. 
Cook until it thickens, then stir in two beaten eggs. The 
mixture is then made into fritters and fried. 

Spinach Puree. 

Endive is often used in France, and called chicoree. This 
puree may be made like the cauliflower, or only plainly 
chopped, put into a pan with two ounces of butter, a gill of 
white sauce, a little grated nutmeg, and a little salt, pepper, 
and sugar. 

Tomatoes Stuffed with Rice. 
Scald the tomatoes in boiling water for a minute or two, 
and then carefully remove the skins. Cut a small piece off 



STANDARD COOKERY. 149 

the top of each and remove a little of the pulp. Put a spoon- 
ful of tomato rice into the tomatoes, and scatter the top thickly 
with fine crumbs, seasoned with celery salt and cayenne. 
Spread a baking-tin with dripping; place the tomatoes in it, 
and bake in a moderate oven for about half an hour. 

Tomatoes Au Gratin with Eggs. 

Butter a fireproof dish and put in a layer of browned bread- 
crumbs, moisten with a little stock and season well, then add 
a layer of sliced tomatoes and repeat until the dish is full, 
having a layer of dry breadcrumbs on top ; put little dabs of 
butter on it to help it to brown nicely, and bake in a hot oven. 
When nearly done, break carefully four eggs, one on each 
corner of the dish, and replace in the oven until the eggs are 
set, and serve. 

Tomato Rice. 

Wash two ounces of rice thoroughly and cook in half a 
pint of milk until quite soft, then flavor with salt and pepper. 
Take one pound of tomato puree, add the rice, and beat to- 
gether until smooth. Stir in one ounce of butter. Serve very 
hot, with or without grated cheese. 

Tomato Puree. 

Take six small tomatoes. Cut them into slices and place 
in an enameled saucepan, add one ounce of butter, a tea- 
spoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and a tiny pinch 
of cayenne. Pour over one pint of stock. Boil until quite 
soft, and then pass through a sieve; add one ounce of anchovy 
essence, thicken with half an ounce of butter and half an ounce 
of flour previously mixed together in another pan v/ith some 
of the tomato mixture. Stir over the fire until the sauce 
thickens, and it is then ready for use. 

Jellied Tomatoes. 

Whip half a pint of cream until stiff, season it with celery, 
salt and pepper. Add three ounces of grated cheese, and 
whisk in by degrees a quarter of a pint of cool but liquid aspic 
jelly which has been flavored with tarragon vinegar. Continue 
to whisk until the mixture begins to stiffen. Previously peel 
and halve some small round tomatoes, and remove the seeds 
from the halves when cut open, and drain for a little. Place 
each piece of tomato, when filled, on a cheese biscuit, and orna- 
ment it round the edge with a piping of cheese cream. Garnish 
the dish with cress, and put a tiny bunch into the middle of the 
cream with which the tomatoes are filled. 



ISO STANDARD COOKERY. 

Tomato Pie, 

Slice a good-sized onion thinly, blanch it, and fry in fat 
till lightly browned. Take one pound of ripe tomatoes, skin 
and cut in slices. Place a layer of onions in the bottom of 
the pie dish with a good seasoning of salt and pepper, then 
a layer of tomatoes, with white breadcrumbs scattered over 
and a few pieces of butter, and so on until the dish is almost 
full. Have ready some well-mashed potatoes, and spread 
thickly over, so as to form a crust ; score them with a fork 
and bake until brown. 

Turnips a la Poulette. 

Peel about one pound of young turnips, wash them well, 
trim into olive or pear shapes ; put them on fire in cold salted 
water, and bring them sharply to the boil ; then drain, rinse in 
cold water, and dry them in a clean napkin. Have ready 
some veloute sauce (i.e., melted butter, made with one ounce 
of butter, one and a half ounces of flour, and about three- 
quarters of a pint of vegetable stock instead of water), drop 
the turnips into this, and cook them till ready, very gently 
for about twenty to twenty-five minutes, according to size. 
When ready lift them out, and keep hot. Add a spoonful of 
castor sugar to the liquor, boil up sharply, and just before 
serving stir in the yolk of an egg and a little piece of butter 
cut up small ; do not let the sauce re-boil after adding these ; 
season to taste with pepper and salt, pour the sauce on to the 
turnips, and serve very hot. 

Glazed Turnips. 
Peel about one pound of young turnips, wash them well, 
cut into quarters, and put them on in salted water; bring this 
sharply to the boil, then place them in a well-buttered small 
frying or saucepan, sprinkle them liberally with castor sugar, 
and directly the turnips begin to color pour a little stock in, 
and season with pepper and salt, and a little more sugar if 
liked; let them stew slowly till quite tender, and serve them 
with the sauce poured over them. 

Vegetable Curry. 

Do not attempt to make a curry in a hurry. Two hours 
is the least in which you can make a vegetable curry worthy 
of the name, and it is far wiser to allow three or four hours. 

Do not ask your cook to make a curry on a day when she 
is busy with other matters, for it will take an hour or more 
of undivided attention, throughout the time of cooking. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 151 

There is, however, no reason that curry should not be made 
the day before it is wanted, for it improves by keeping and by 
being: re-heated. 



SOYER'S PAPER-BAG COOKERY. 

VEGETABLES. 

If there is one article of our diet which more than any 
other benefits by cooking in paper bags it is the vegetables. 

Hitherto the vegetables of the ordinary cook have been a 
byword for all that is tasteless and unappetizing, and thus they 
have been robbed of the popularity to which their food-value 
entitles them. Vegetarian and meat-eater alike know and re- 
gret that by ordinary methods of cooking much that is best 
in vegetables, both for the palate and the health, are boiled 
out into the water and thrown away. 

Medical men tell us how valuable are the salts and other 
constituents of vegetables thus wasted. Little medicine would 
be needed if we included in our diet these juices, which form 
the choice flavor of the vegetables. Up to the present we 
•have thrown nature's physic to the dogs — or, at any rate, 
down the kitchen sink. 

But with the vegetables cooked in bags nothing is lost. All 
the food-value and all the flavor are retained. The cooking 
is easier, without smell, and the result will be to place vegeta- 
bles in that honored place which they should occupy on every 
well-served table. This is a matter which the ordinary house- 
holder and the " Food Reformer " alike have at heart. 

Asparagus. 

Trim and clean the asparagus in the usual way. Tie up, 
and put in the paper bag. Add a quarter of a tumbler of 
water, a little salt, and place on the grid. Allow thirty-five 
to forty-live minutes in a hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Lima Beans. 

Take a quart of lima beans, add two ounces of butter, four 
ounces of diced ham, a little sugar and salt, a good teaspoon- 
ful of flour, and a few sweet herbs to taste. Put in a bag 
with half-a-pint of water and cook for sixty minutes in a mod- 
erate oven (300° Fahr.). 

Vegetable Marrow. 
Peel and halve lengthways two or three vegetable marrows, 



152 STANDARD COOKERY. 

remove the seeds, blanch for three minutes and drain well. 
Chop up some cold meat or poultry left from a previous meal, 
season to taste, add a small chopped shallot or onion, a table- 
spoonful of flour, a little Worcester sauce, two small halved 
tomatoes, and an equal quantity of mushrooms peeled and 
chopped. Blend with two tablespoonfuls of stock or gravy, 
mix well, stuff the marrow with the mixture, place in a well- 
buttered paper-bag, and bake for thirty-Uve to fifty tninutes 
in 300° Fahr. 

Mushrooms. 
Peel the mushrooms and wash them well. Then cook in 
the same way as tomatoes, and allow the same time. 

Peas, Plainly Boiled. 
Put a pint of freshly-shelled peas, a sprig of mint, and half 
a pint of water into a paper-bag, seal up, and cook for thirty-five 
to forty-five minutes in 300° Fahr. 

Peas. 

Put a pint of freshly-shelled green peas in a bowl, add a tea- 
spoonful of sugar, an ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of flour, 
a little salt, a chopped lettuce, a small bouquet garni and half 
a pint of water. Mix together, place in a bag and cook for 
thirty minutes in a moderate oven (300° Fahr.). 

New Potatoes. 

Peel, halve and put sufficient in paper-bag for three persons 
with three tablespoonfuls of cold water. Add one leaf of mint, 
and a little salt. Seal up bag. Place gently on the grid. 
Allozv thirty to thirty-five minutes in hot oven (350° Fahr.). 
All potatoes should be cut in two. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Thoroughly wash twelve good-sized potatoes. Make a few 
small slits in them but do not peel. Place in a paper-bag with 
one tablespoonful of water. Cook for thirty-five to fifty min- 
utes, according to size, in 350° Fahr. 

Pommes Chateau. 

Peel and blanch two dozen small potatoes and drain well. 

Put them in a bag and add two ounces of butter. Seal up 

and hake in a very hot oven for thirty-finje minutes (350° 

Fahr.). Place on a very hot dish, season to taste and serve. 

Pommes Paysanne. 
Cut half a dozen good-sized peeled potatoes into large dice; 



STANDARD COOKERY. 153 

blanch for a minute or so. Place in a paper-bag and add a 
chopped onion, four ounces of ham finely diced, and two ounces 
of butter. Seal up and bake for thirty minutes in 300° Fahr. 

Pommes Maitre d'Hotel. 
Cut up six cold boiled potatoes, place in a well-buttered bag, 
add half a glass of milk, salt and pepper, an ounce of butter, 
a little chopped parsley, and grated nutmeg. Cook for fifteen 
minutes in 300° Fahr. 

Spinach. 
Pick over and thoroughly wash two pounds of spinach ; leave 
the vegetable as wet as you can, and put in a bag. Add a 
little sugar and a pinch of salt. Seal bag, and cook for thirty- 
five minutes in 300° Fahr. Then stand the grid bearing the 
bag on a large plate, and prick the bottom of the bag in such 
a way as to allow all the water to run out. Dish up, add a 
small piece of butter, and serve. 

Tomatoes. 
Place six tomatoes in boiling water for twenty-five seconds, 
then take them out, and you will find they will peel easily. 
Butter your paper-bag. Place salt, pepper, a suspicion of 
sugar, and a small piece of butter in the bag, and put on grid. 
Allow twelve minutes in hot oven (350° Fahr.). 



154 STANDARD COOKERY. 



ENTREES. 

Amourettes (Beef). 

Cut up two pounds of beef marrow and mix it with a cup- 
ful of tomato sauce and a little pepper and salt. To this 
add half a pound of sliced cooked truffles and a quarter of a 
pound of minced ham. Line a mold with breadcrumbs mixed 
with butter and herbs and fill with meat. Let it steam for 
three-quarters of an hour, and serve with stewed mushrooms. 

Beef Scallop. 
Place one tablespoonful of chopped onion into a stewpan 
with one ounce of beef dripping and fry it until it is brown; 
then stir in the flour, and when this is smoothly mixed add 
half a pint of vegetable stock. Let the sauce boil up, season 
it well with salt and pepper, add one dessertspoonful of to- 
mato catsup, and after it has simmered for ten minutes strain 
it into a bowl. Butter a pie dish and put a layer of cold beef 
in it which has been cut into rather thin slices; pour a little 
of the sauce over it, sprinkle with some chopped parsley and 
a little chopped onion which was strained from the sauce, and 
then add more meat and sauce alternately until the dish is 
full. Cover the top thickly with fine dry breadcrumbs, pour 
a little warm dripping over the bread, and cook the ineat in 
a moderately hot oven for at least an hour. If the bread is 
getting brown too quickly cover it with a sheet of greased 
paper. 

Beef Cake. 

Cut one pound of beefsteak into small slices, which should 
be as nearly square as possible ; season them with salt and 
pepper and nutmeg, and roll them up tightly. Cut a carrot 
and onion, and a piece of turnip into slices, and put them 
into a jar with a small slice of bacon, and place the rolls of 
meat on ihem. Add a teaspoonful of browning and the sauce 
to a pint r>f hot water, and season it with salt and pepper; 
fill up the jar with the liquor, cover it closely and put it into 



STANDARD COOKERY. 155 

a moderately hot oven for two hours. Then take out the meat 
and vegetables, cut some of the carrot into fancy shapes, and 
place them at the bottom of a pie-dish with some slices of 
hard-boiled egg, sprinkle with some chopped parsley and put 
in the meat. Let the liquor in which the beef was cooked 
boil up, free it from grease, and add some leaf gelatine (which 
has been softened in cold water) in the proportion of half an 
ounce to three-quarters of a pint of the liquor. Stir it for a 
few minutes and then strain over the meat. When the con- 
tents of the dish are quite firm, turn out the beef cake and 
garnish it with parsley. 

Beef Gateau. 

Put one and a half ounces of dripping into a frying pan 
with a small slice of fat bacon, one small onion (sliced) and 
one pound of tender beefsteak which has been cut up, and fry 
until the meat is nicely browned; then put it aside to cool 
while the sauce is made. Add a tablespoonful of flour to the 
pan in which the meat was fried, stirring it well into the fat ; 
then pour in gradually, stirring all the time, half a pint of hot 
water; when the sauce is smooth and thick, add one teaspoon- 
ful of tomato or Yorkshire relish, or some store sauce to it, 
and a little browning; season it with pepper and nutmeg, and 
let it simmer for ten minutes. During this time pass the beef 
through a meat chopper, then strain the sauce into the 
minced meat ; mix it well and add a well-beaten Qgg. Take 
a plain tin mold, rub it over on the inside with clarified 
dripping, and when the mince is cold fill the mold with it; 
cover with greased paper, put a plate on the top, and place the 
mold in a hot oven for half an hour (if the oven is only 
moderately hot, allow rather longer). Turn the meat out of 
the mold, and pour some brown sauce or clear gravy round 
the dish. 

Grenadin of Beef. 

Cut some tender rump steak into medium-sized rounds which 
should be about half an inch thick, and fry them in small 
quantity of hot beef dripping over a very quick fire for from 
six to ten minutes, turning them only once while they are 
cooking. Cut some small thin slices of bacon, and roll it up ; 
run a skewer through the little rolls and cook in a hot oven. 
Serve the grenadines round a pile of haricot beans with a roll 
of bacon between each. Prepare the haricot beans as fol- 
lows : — Put a teacupful of large haricot beans, which have 



156 STANDARD COOKERY. 

been soaked for at least twelve hours, into a saucepan contain- 
ing plenty of cold water; when the water boils add an onion, 
a few pieces of celery and two cloves tied together in a piece 
of muslin; draw the pan to the side of the stove and let the 
beans simmer gently for about three and a half hours, adding 
more water from time to time if necessary; it is advisable 
not to add any salt until the beans are cooked as they are 
less liable to burst. When the beans are done, drain them 
on a cloth and after arranging them on a dish, cover them 
with parsley sauce. 

Beef Mold. 

Put four ounces of breadcrumbs into a saucepan, and pour 
in sufficient hot beef gravy to moisten them; let the mixture 
boil up, and when a thick paste is formed remove the pan 
from the stove, and add the yolks of two eggs, then half a 
pound of finely-minced beef, and the liver, which has been 
cooked with a few slices of onions in clarified bacon fat and 
then rubbed through a wire sieve. Season the ingredients 
with salt, black pepper, and a little cayenne, then stir 
in one tablespoonful of tomato sauce and the whites of two 
eggs, whisked to a stiff froth. Butter a plain tin mold, fill 
it with the prepared meat, place a piece of buttered paper over 
the top, and steam it steadily for an hour; then turn it on to 
a hot dish, cover the top with grated horse-radish, and sur- 
round with savory brown sauce. 

Beef Olives. 

Beat one pound of lean steak with a rolling-pin for a few 
minutes and then cut it into slices as nearly the same size 
as possible, but they must not be thick; flatten them out with 
a wet knife, and spread each with a layer of forcemeat. 
Then roll them up and secure them with crochet cotton ; flour 
the little rolls and fry them in clarified dripping until they are 
nicely browned, and then stew them very gently for from one 
and a half to two hours in some flavored brown sauce, which 
has been thickened with equal proportions of flour and corn- 
flour. For the forcemeat mix three ounces of breadcrumbs 
with the chopped parsley, onion, herbs, grated lemon-peel, and 
bacon. Season with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg, and 
moisten the dry ingredients with sufficient beaten egg to make 
it into a fairly soft paste. The olives can be made with 
cooked meat if more convenient. 

Beef Suzette. 

Cut one and a quarter pounds of fillet of beef (or tender 



STANDARD COOKERY. 157 

rump steak) into moderately thick slices, and then into neat 
square pieces (not too large), and place the meat in a pie- 
dish containing salad-oil, vinegar, a dust of black pepper, a 
few pieces of bruised parsley and some lemon thyme. After 
it has been in the pickle for about two hours, take out the 
meat, wipe it and cook it quickly over a fierce fire in a frying- 
pan, which contains a small quantity of hot dripping. Scatter 
a little chopped parsley (or horse-radish) over the fillets and 
place them so that they just overlap in some fried potatoes 
or French beans, which have been prepared according to the 
direction given below, and neatly arranged in a line down the 
middle of a hot dish. Remove the strings from the beans, 
cut them into thin strips and wash them well in cold water, 
then put them into a saucepan containing plenty of boiling 
water, to which add a small piece of soda and some salt (al- 
low a large teaspoonful to a quart of water), and let them boil 
quickly for about half an hour. 'When done drain the beans 
on a colander and then turn them on to a cloth for a few 
minutes. Put an ounce of butter into a stewpan ; when it is 
melted, add the beans and season them with a pinch of salt, 
pepper, sugar, and nutmeg, and let them simmer for five min- 
utes; add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and after letting 
them cook very gently for five minutes longer, serve them as 
directed. 

Beef Timbole. 

Put into a stewpan one and a half ounces of clarified beef 
dripping; when it is hot add one slice of fat bacon, one onion 
(sliced), and about one pound of beefsteak cut into two pieces, 
and fry the meat quickly until it is evenly browned, then re- 
move it from the pan and let it get cool. Put the flour into 
the pan in which the steak was fried and mix it smoothly 
with the fat, then pour in, gradually stirring all the time, the 
hot water, and when the sauce is smooth and thick add a little 
browning and tomato catsup ; season it with salt and pepper 
and let it simmer for ten minutes. Pass the steak through a 
meat chopper, then strain the sauce into the minced meat 
and add a well-beaten egg. Rub some plain dariole molds 
with dripping, fill them with the mince and place them in a 
moderately hot oven; put a piece of greased paper over the 
darioles and cook the mince for about half an hour. When 
firm, turn it out of the molds and pour some gherkin sauce 
round the dish. Add the pickled gherkins, finely minced, to 



158 STANDARD COOKERY. 

the sauce, simmer gently for ten minutes and it will be ready 
for use, 

Bistecchi (Beef). 
Take about two pounds of fillet of beef or rump-steak, and 
after removing the skin and most of the fat cut it into four 
equal parts and sprinkle well with pepper and salt on a dish. 
Pour over them a tablespoonful of white wine vinegar and 
three tablespoonfuls of salad oil. Let them remain in this 
for about an hour, frequently turning them over, and then 
grill for ten minutes or fry in oil. If the fillets are very thick 
they may take a little longer to cook. 

Casserole of Rice with Collops (Beef). 

Cut one pound of lean steak into small square pieces, and 
put them into a stewpan containing an ounce of melted clari- 
fied dripping, one onion cut in half, one carrot (sliced) and a 
few pieces of celery. Fry the meat until it is evenly browned, 
turning it frequently to prevent it from burning. Then take 
out the beef, stir two ounces of flour into the pan, mixing it 
smoothly with the fat, and pour in by degrees a pint of hot 
water; stir quickly with a wooden spoon until the sauce has 
boiled and thickened. Season it with salt, pepper, and a very 
little grated nutmeg, and add sufficient browning to make it a 
rich brown; put in the fried meat and let it stew very gently 
for two hours. When done, place the collops in a casserole 
of rice, prepared according to the directions given below, strain 
the sauce over them, and garnish with little three-cornered 
sippets of fried bread. For the casserole, boil the rice until it 
is quite tender in a pint of water, with a thick slice of onion 
stuck with cloves, and sufficient salt and pepper to season it. 
When the rice is done, all the liquid should be absorbed, and 
if it is allowed to cook too quickly, rather more water must be 
added. Take the onion out of the rice and when it has cooled 
press it into a plain border mold which has been well but- 
tered, or a pie dish will answer the purpose. As soon as the 
rice is quite cold turn it out of the mold; if a dish has been 
used carefully remove the middle of the rice to within about 
half an inch of the sides and bottom. Then brush the cas- 
serole over with clarified butter, scatter some browned bread- 
crumbs over it and put it into a quick oven until it becomes 
a golden color, and fill it at once with the collops. 

Cold Pie (Beef). 

Pass a large slice of bacon twice through a meat chopper 



STANDARD COOKERY. 159 

and mix it with one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, 
half a teaspoonful finely minced onion, salt, some freshly- 
ground black pepper, and a dust of curry powder. Cut some 
beefsteak into rather thin slices which should be as nearly as 
possible two and a half inches square; spread a small quantity 
of the bacon mixture on the pieces of meat, and roll them up. 
Rub a stewpan over with fresh beef dripping, and pack the 
beef rolls tightly into it; place a piece of greased paper over 
the meat, then cover the pan and fry it for a few minutes, 
add a quarter of a pint of water, and let it cook very gently 
on a moderately hot stove for an hour. During the time the 
meat is cooking prepare some vegetable stock thus : — Cut a 
small onion, two young carrots and a piece of turnip into 
slices and put them into a small saucepan with a pint of water, 
add a blade of mace, twelve whole peppers, a clove and salt to 
taste. When the stock has simmered for an hour add suffi- 
cient coloring to make it a clear brown, a large teaspoonful o£ 
tarragon vinegar, and five leaves of French gelatine, and strain 
in a bowl. Place the rolls of beef in the pie-dish and let them 
get cool; cut one and a half hard-boiled eggs into slices and 
put them among the beef, stand an egg-cup in the middle of 
the dish and pour in as much of the stock (which should be 
cool) as the dish will contain without letting it touch the paste. 
Cover the meat with a paste of medium thickness, put an orna- 
mental rose in the middle, and bake the pie in a quick oven. 
When it has cooled a little, carefully remove the rose from 
the top of the pie and pour in a little more of the stock ; then 
replace the rose and leave the pie untouched until the follow- 
ing day. 

Dresden Patties (Beef). 

Mince some cooked beef finely, taking care to remove all 
the fat and gristle ; and a small quantity of cooked bacon, also 
minced, and a dust of salt and pepper. Spread some clarified 
dripping evenly over a small stewpan, put in two teaspoonfuls 
of minced onion and let it fry for a few minutes until it 
shows signs of becoming brown, then add the minced meat and 
stir it constantly for eight minutes. Pour in sufficient nicely- 
flavored, thick, brown sauce to moisten the mince, draw the 
pan to the side of the stove and let it simmer for fifteen to 
twenty minutes. Cut some slices of bread from a " tin " loaf 
of about one inch in thickness, stamp them out into medium- 
size rounds with a cutter, mark the bread in the middle but 



i6o STANDARD COOKERY. 

without cutting it through ; clip the rounds of bread quickly 
into milk, then brush them over with some beaten egg, and 
after covering them thickly with fine dry breadcrumbs, fry 
them at once in plenty of boiling fat. Take care the bread 
does not become more than a golden brown, and after draining 
it on paper, remove the portion from each round which was 
marked with the small cutter, and fill up the little cases thus 
formed with the prepared mince. Have ready a little pow- 
dered parsley, scatter this over the surface of the mince and 
serve the patties at once. 

Fillet of Beef with Shrimps. 
Cut one pound of fillet of beef into neat square pieces of 
medium thickness, brush them over with oiled butter, sprinkle 
them with black pepper and a little cayenne, and grill them 
over a clear fire. Boil some rice in some weak stock until 
it is quite tender and the liquid has been absorbed; season it 
with salt and pepper, add a piece of butter to it, and mold it on 
a hot dish into a smooth border, and dish up the fillets on it. 
Make half a pint of thick brown sauce, flavor it with a little 
tomato catsup, add a squeeze of lemon juice and a few drops 
of carmine to it, and pour half of it into a small saucepan ; then 
stir in a quarter of a pint of pickled shrimps. As soon as 
they are thoroughly hot, place about a teaspoonful of the 
sauce and shrimps in the middle of each fillet and scatter a 
little chopped parsley over the top. Fill up the middle of the 
rice border with fried potatoes, and pour the remainder of the 
sauce round the dish. 

Hashed Beef. 

Chop two pounds of underdone beef with a quarter of a 
pound of suet and two onions, flavoring with pepper, salt, and 
parsley. Mix well with half a cupful of breadcrumbs and 
moisten with a cupful of stock. Place the whole in a dish or 
mold and cover with breadcrumbs moistened with a spoonful 
of lemon juice. Bake until well browned, and serve with 
mashed potatoes. 

Hashed Beef. (Another Method.) 

Chop together two pounds of lean beef and a quarter of a 
pound of suet, and add two minced onions and a sprinkling of 
pepper, salt, and chopped parsley. Thoroughly mix with these 
half a cupful of breadcrumbs and a cupful of clear stock. 
Pour the whole into a mold or bowl and sprinkle thickly with 
crumbs, pouring over them a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Let 



STANDARD COOKERY. i6i 

the whole bake until thoroughly done, and then turn it out on 
a dish with a border of mashed potatoes. 

Minced Cutlet (Beef). 

Pass half a pound of cold roast beef through a meat chopper, 
then add the breadcrumbs which have been moistened with 
some highly seasoned boiling stock, and then beaten to a 
paste — some salt, pepper, cayenne, and a little nutmeg. 
Moisten the mince with the thick brown sauce and half a 
well-beaten egg and spread it on a dish to get cold. Take a 
small portion of the mince at a time and form it into the 
shape of cutlets on a floured board. When all are ready dip 
the cutlets into beaten egg and then cover them with dry 
breadcrumbs which have been well seasoned with salt and 
pepper, and mixed with a little chopped parsley and finely- 
minced onion. Let the cutlets stand for ten minutes then egg 
and crumb them again and after being put aside for another 
ten minutes fry them in a bath of boiling fat. 

Marinated Beef. 

Sprinkle well a fillet of beef with salt and let it stand for 
four hours. Now make a pickle of vinegar, red wine, and 
water in equal parts, some small onions stuck with cloves, 
slices of lemon, a few bay leaves, two or three pieces of ginger, 
and branches of thyme, marjoram, and any other herbs that 
are liked. Some people add a little gin, but this is not neces- 
sary. Boil this pickle and pour it over the fillet of beef, which 
must be left in it for three days. Each day the pickle is 
again boiled up and poured over the fillet. 

On the fourth day remove the fillet and lard it with an- 
chovies cut into thin strips, and then place it in a stewpan or 
earthenware cooking pot upon a layer of slices of fat bacon. 
Cover with more slices of fat bacon, moisten with a little of 
the pickle, and then place a sheet of buttered paper over the 
whole. While cooking add from time to time a very little of 
the pickle. When the fillet is done make a sauce by mixing 
two spoonfuls of flour with a little boiled milk, adding some 
butter, minced anchovies, and a little of the pickle. Cook this 
over the fire, strain, add some capers, and pour it over the 
fillet. 

Pickled Steak (Beef). 
Take about two pounds of rump-steak, place in a deep dish 
and cover with two sliced onions, twenty-four white pepper- 
corns, six cloves, a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 



1 62 STANDARD COOKERY. 

thyme and marjoram mixed, a tablespoonful of salad oil, and 
two or three tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Let the 
steak steep in this marinade from twelve to twenty-four hours, 
turning frequently. 

When ready to cook drain the steak, wipe it well and grill 
quickly over a clear fire until nearly done. Strain the mari- 
nade into a stewpan, boil it up, add salt to taste, put in the 
steak, and let it simmer very gently for about twenty minutes. 

Rolled Beef. 

Take about two pounds of tender steak (cut in one piece), 
flatten it out with a rolling-pin, and trim oflf the fat; flour the 
meat, and spread it with a forcemeat made as follows : — Mix 
six ounces of fine breadcrumbs with two ounces of finely- 
chopped suet, a teaspoonful of dried mixed herbs, a tablespoon- 
ful of minced parsley, a teaspoonful of chopped onion and the 
same quantity of fat bacon finely-minced, a little grated lemon- 
peel, and a liberal seasoning of pepper and salt and a dust of 
cayenne ; moisten the dry ingredients with sufficient beaten egg 
(or milk will do) to make a fairly stifif paste. Roll up the meat, 
tie it with narrow tape at each end and in the middle, and put 
it on to a baking tin ; pour a little melted dripping over it, 
and place some unmelted dripping round the meat, and bake 
it in a moderately hot oven until it is nicely browned ; the 
meat must be basted frequently, and if it is inclined to brown 
too quickly, place a piece of greased paper over it. When 
done remove the tapes and pour some brown sauce which has 
been thickened with flour, over the meat, and also round the 
dish. 

Rolled Beef in Jelly. 

Cut some fairly thin slices from a piece of cold roast beef, 
spread them with a layer of potted ham (or cold boiled bacon), 
and roll them up and tie with thin white twine. Rub a stew- 
pan over with some fresh beef drippings, and put in a small 
onion (sliced), a few thin pieces of carrot and turnip, and 
the little rolls of beef, cover with greased paper and fry for 
six minutes. Then pour in a small quantity of stock (not 
enough to cover the meat) and let the meat cook very gently 
for an hour. On taking it out of the stewpan, place it on 
soft paper, and when it is cold remove the twine. Put a small 
onion into a saucepan with a pint of cold water, two cloves, a 
few thin strips of lemon-peel and a little salt and pepper, 
and let the water simmer for half an hour. Add a large 



STANDARD COOKERY. 163 

teaspoonful of strong colored gravy, one tablespoonful of tar- 
ragon vinegar and stir in three-quarters of an ounce of 
French gelatine, and when the latter has melted, strain through 
muslin into a bowl. Pour a small quantity of the jelly into 
a plain round mold, and when it is firm arrange some little 
pieces of pickled cauliflower, slices of pickled gherkins and 
strips of French beans (which have been dipped into liquid 
jelly), on it, and as soon as the vegetables are set fill up the 
mold with the rolled beef, and when the remainder of the 
jelly shows signs of setting, pour it over the meat. The fol- 
lowing day turn the jelly on to a dish covered with a paper 
d'oyley, and garnish it with pieces of fresh parsley. 

Sauerbraten (Beef). 

Place a piece of lean beef in vinegar and let it soak for 
two days. After draining, lard freely with fat bacon, dust 
with pepper, salt, and mixed spices, and brown thoroughly 
in a frying-pan with melted butter. Next place the meat in 
a saucepan with a pint of boiling water, sliced carrots, an 
onion, the rind of a lemon, and any herbs that are preferred. 
Cover and let it simmer gently for three hours. After taking 
out the meat skim the gravy, thicken with flour, add a little 
vinegar, and pour over the meat. 

This dish is usually eaten with sauerkraut. 

Spiced Pressed Beef. 
Take the bones from four to five pounds of salt brisket of 
beef, wash the meat and spread it out on a board and scatter 
some spices and herbs (which should be mixed together) over 
the inside. Roll up the meat, tie it in the middle and at each 
end with narrow white tape and wrap it in a pudding cloth, 
which must also be tied securely. Put the meat into a large 
saucepan of warm water; let it boil up, remove the scum and 
add two onions, one carrot and a small turnip. Cover the 
saucepan and let the meat simmer very gently for four hours. 
At the end of the time take out the beef and after tighten- 
ing the cloth place it between two flat dishes with weights 
on the top and leave it until the following day. Remove the 
cloth, wipe and trim the meat and proceed to glaze it, and as 
soon as one coat has set brush the meat over again with more 
glaze, and so on until it is thick enough to look well ; great 
care must be taken to get a perfectly even surface. To make 
the glaze, dissolve eight sheets of French gelatine in about 
a quarter of a pint of boiling water, then add sufficient Paris- 



i64 STANDARD COOKERY. 

ian essence and carmine (only a few drops of the latter) to 
make it a rich reddish brown. 

Steak and Kidney Pudding. 

Cut some beefsteak into moderately thin slices, and cut 
half as many slices of bacon the same size as the beef, only 
very much thinner, and slice as many kidneys as are required. 
Spread out the slices of beef with a knife, sprinkle them with 
a little salt and some black pepper, and a very little chopped 
onion and parsley; place a slice of bacon on some of the 
pieces of meat, and a slice of kidney on the others, and roll 
them up tightly and dust them with flour. Line a buttered 
bowl with suet paste, pack the little rolls of meat into the 
bowl and pour over them a quarter of a pint of water; cover 
the pudding securely with paste, pressing the edges, which 
should be moistened, well together. Tie the bowl in a floured 
cloth, and boil the pudding steadily for four hours. For the 
crust, shred or grate six ounces of Hugon's suet and mix it 
well with a pound of flour ; when it is entirely free from 
lumps, add half a teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of 
baking-powder, and add sufficient cold water to make a fairly 
soft paste. Roll it out to about a third of an inch in thick- 
ness and use. 

Steak and Kidney Pie. 

Cut up one and a half pounds of steak into small, almost 
square pieces, which should not be too thick, season with 
pepper, salt, and a little finely chopped parsley and onion, and 
roll them up; then dust lightly with the flour. Cut half a 
pound of ox kidney into thin slices, fry these lightly and 
quickly in a small quantity of boiling dripping, and put them 
aside to cool. Chop the bacon coarsely and then proceed to 
fill the pie-dish; butter the latter and place a layer of meat 
rolls in it ; then cover them with some slices of fried kidney, 
and sprinkle over some of the chopped bacon. Then put more 
meat rolls and kidney and bacon and pour in sufficient stock, 
seasoned with pepper and salt to nearly fill the dish ; cover 
it, and put it into a moderate oven for two hours. When 
the meat has cooled, add a little more stock, if necessary, and 
put on a dripping-paste; brush it over with some beaten yolk 
of egg, and bake in a well-heated oven until the crust is evenly 
browned. 

Steak and Tomato Pudding. 

Mix some fine salt with a dust of cayenne, some black pepper 



STANDARD COOKERY. 165 

and a little grated nutmeg'. Cut about a pound and a half of 
lean steak into moderately small thin slices; dust them with 
some prepared salt, and roll them up. Shred six ounces of 
refined beef suet with a sharp knife and put it into a bowl 
with one pound of flour, a pinch of salt and a tcaspoonful 
of baking powder; rub the suet into sufficient cold water to 
mix it to a smooth and fairly soft paste. Turn the paste on 
to a floured board, and roll it out to about one-third of an inch 
in thickness, then line a pudding dish (which has previously 
been buttered) with it. Remove the skin from some firm 
tomatoes, cut them into quarters and take out the seeds. 
Place a layer of meat rolls in the bowl, cover them with some 
pieces of tomato, then scatter a little bacon and onion over 
them and continue in the same way until the dish is full. 
Pour in rather less than half a pint of stock (or water) and 
cover in the pudding with a layer of the paste about a quarter 
of an inch thick; trim it neatly and moisten the edge and press 
it well against the under paste so that it may adhere. Dip 
a pudding cloth into boiling water, wring it and flour it, then 
tie it securely over the dish. Have ready a saucepan contain- 
ing boiling water; put in the pudding, and let it cook steadily 
for four hours, taking care that the water does not boil over 
the top of the dish. 

Stewed Roast Beef. 

Roast a piece of lean beef before an open fire until it is 
half done, basting from time to time with butter. Now take 
the juice of twelve moderate-sized onions, add sufficient bread- 
crumb to absorb it, and one pound of fresh butter. Mix 
thoroughly into a smooth paste and season with pepper and 
salt. Now place the mixture in a stewpan and stir in suffi- 
cient strong stock to make a thick sauce. When this has 
simmered five minutes place in it the piece of beef cut into 
slices. Cover and simmer until thoroughly done. 

The sauce should be strained, thickened with the yolks of 
three eggs, and poured over the slices of beef arranged in 
a pile on the dish. 

Stewed Roast Beef. (Another Method.) 

Cut some cold roast beef into small square dice and place 
them in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter. Stir 
constantly over the fire till the meat is lightly browned, then 
add half a cupful of stock, four tablespoonfuls of good tomato 
catsup, a sliced onion, a minced green chili, and a pinch of 



i66 STANDARD COOKERY. 

pepper. Mix well, cover closely, and simmer very gently for 
twenty minutes. 

The stew should be served with a border of boiled rice. 

Stewed Kidneys. 
Place as many kidneys as are required for a dish in boiling 
water for a few minutes, then remove the skin, cut them in 
two and take out the core. Wipe them, flour them lightly and 
fry them quickly in a small quantity of hot dripping for 
six minutes ; then put aside while the sauce is made. Add 
sufficient clarified dripping to that in which the kidneys were 
cooked to make up one and a half ounces and fry one ounce 
of chopped onion in it until it is a light brown; then stir 
in one ounce of flour and one ounce of cornflour, and pour 
in gradually, stirring all the time, one pint of stock (or 
water) ; when the sauce is smooth and thick, season it with 
salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg, and add one dessertspoonful 
of tomato sauce, one teaspoonful of Harvey sauce, and suffi- 
cient browning to make it a rich brown. Strain the sauce 
into a gourmet boila (or a stewpan will do), put the kidneys 
into it and place the vessel containing them in a stewpan of 
boiling water, cover the pan and let them cook (preferably 
in the oven) for two hours, taking care to replenish the water 
when necessary. Dish up the kidneys inside a wall of mashed 
potatoes, and pour the sauce over them. 

Spanish Onions with Kidneys. 

Put some Spanish onions which have been peeled and 
washed, into a saucepan containing plenty of cold salted water; 
when the water boils up, draw the pan to the side of the 
stove, and let them cook gently until they are parboiled. 
Drain the onions and carefully remove the middles ; place half 
a sheep's kidney in each, pressing it well into the onion, 
put them on a baking-tin which has been rubbed with some 
good beef dripping; cover the onions with greased paper, and 
let them cook slowly in a moderately-heated oven for four 
hours, basting them frequently. Serve with thick sauce, which 
should be very savory, poured over the onions. 

Zrazi (Beef). 

Cut some very thin slices of lean beef, sprinkle with salt 
and beat thoroughly in order to make them tender. Now make 
a forcemeat of minced rind of lemon, and bound with three 
eggs. If too stiff a little warm milk can be added. Spread 



STANDARD COOKERY. 167 

this mixture on the sHces of beef, then roll them up and tie 
with thread. Next place them in an earthenware cooking 
vessel or stewpan with just enough stock to nearly cover 
them. Add a glass of red wine and a dessertspoonful of vine- 
gar, one onion stuck with cloves, a few peppercorns, a little 
piece of ginger, the rind of a lemon, and two or three bay- 
leaves. Cover the vessel and cook thoroughly. When done 
strain the sauce and pour it over the rolls of beef after first 
removing the threads. 

Casserole of Fowl. 

Remove the skin from a fowl and cut it into joints and 
neat pieces, dividing the legs and breakfng the back into two 
pieces. Put one and a half ounces of clarified dripping into 
a stewpan and when it is hot add one onion (sliced), one 
slice of bacon and the pieces of fowl, and let the latter cook 
over a gentle heat until they are white; turn them frequently, 
and remove from the pan directly they are done, taking care 
they do not become brown. Then stir the flour into the fat in 
the pan and when it is well mixed add the stock (or water) 
by degrees, and stir until the sauce is smooth and thick; sea- 
son it well and add the spices and a few thin strips of lemon 
peel, and let it simmer very gently for half an hour. Color 
the sauce a light brown, add a squeeze of lemon juice, and 
strain it into an earthen casserole; put in the fried fowl, and 
after covering it with a piece of greased paper, put on the lid 
and place the casserole in a moderately hot oven for two 
hours; a little chopped parsley should be scattered over the sur- 
face when the paper is removed, just before the casserole is 
sent to the table. If the liver of the bird is not objected to, 
it should be fried with the fowl and then cut into small pieces 
and piit into the casserole. 

Baked Ham. 

Soak a ham weighing six pounds for twelve hours, or if 
thoroughly matured for twice as long, changing the water 
twice; then scrub it in warm water, dry it well, cover it en- 
tirely with a thick paste made with flour and water and 
wrap the ham up in a piece of white paper which has been 
well greased, securing it with white tape or string. Put it 
into a moderately hot oven and let it cook for five hours. 
When done remove the paper and paste and then pull off the 
skin; trim the ham, brush it over, glaze and scatter it thickly 
with brown crumbs. 



i68 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Jugged Hare. 

Skin a hare, wash it thoroughly and dry it, then cut it up 
into small pieces of convenient size. Put two ounces of drip- 
ping into a stewpan and when it is melted add the hare, two 
ounces of fat bacon (cut into small dice-shaped pieces), and 
one medium-sized onion (sliced), fry the meat (turning it 
frequently until it is evenly browned) ; then drain it on paper, 
and put it into a jar or gourmet boila. Stir the flour and corn- 
flour into the pan in which the hare was fried, mixing the 
flour smoothly with the fat, and adding a little more if neces- 
sary ; cook the flour for a few minutes, then add by degrees 
one pint of stock (made from the neck and trimmings of the 
hare) ; let it boil up and thicken and season with salt, spice, 
and pepper, add the celery seed, thyme, and parsley, the lemon 
juice and sufficient browning to make the sauce a rich brown; 
let it simmer for fifteen minutes and strain it over the meat. 
Put the cover on the jar and make it air-tight by sealing the 
edges with a soft dough made with flour and water. Place 
the jar in a moderately hot oven in a pan containing boiling 
water, and let the contents cook for three hours. Arrange 
the meat neatly on a hot dish and strain the sauce over it, 
and garnish with small fried balls of herb forcemeat, and 
serve with red-currant jelly. A glass of port, sherry, or claret, 
added to the sauce just before straining, will greatly improve 
the flavor. 

Braised Leg of Lamb. 

Melt two ounces of dripping in a large stewpan, and put 
in a small leg of lamb and fry it for ten minutes, letting it 
brown lightly on both sides. Then pour in sufficient water 
to partly cover the meat, and add two onions, a turnip, and 
two carrots (cut into slices), a sprig of mint, a small . bunch 
of parsley and a little muslin bag containing twelve pepper- 
corns, a blade of mace, and two cloves. Place a piece of 
buttered paper over the meat, then cover the pan and let it 
simmer in a moderately hot oven for three hours. The meat 
should be basted from time to time and turned after it has 
been cooking for an hour and a half. When it is done, re- 
move it from the pan and keep it hot while the sauce is made. 
Pour off as much of the fat as possible from the liquor in 
which the Iamb was cooked, then thicken it with cornflour, 
which has been mixed with a small quantity of cold water ; 
season it with salt and a little pepper if necessary, and color 
the sauce a rich brown with Parisian essence. Strain it 



STANDARD COOKERY. 169 

through a pointed strainer over the meat, and garnish the dish 
either with peas which have been cooked separately or with 
the vegetables with which it was braised. 

Stewed Neck of Lamb. 

Take two to three pounds of the neck of lamb, which may 
either be cut up or jointed and left whole. After washing 
it put it into a stewpan with some cold vegetable stock (water 
in which a large onion, a carrot, and a turnip have been boiled 
with a bunch of parsley and a few sweet herbs). When it 
boils up skim the stock, add a teaspoonful of salt and as long 
as the scum rises remove it; then draw the pan to the side 
of the stove where the meat can only simmer, and leave for 
half an hour. At the end of the time add the peas, or if these 
are not procurable some very young carrots and turnips may 
be used instead: cover the pan and let the meat simmer for 
another half hour. Mix the flour until it is quite smooth 
with a little milk, pour this into the stewpan and stir the sauce 
quickly until it thickens, then season it with black pepper and 
salt and add the mint and the parsley and let the contents of 
the pan continue to cook gently for half an hour longer. 
Place the meat on a hot dish and surround it with peas (or 
other vegetables) and the sauce. Mutton may be substitued 
for lamb. 

Lamb Chops a la Maintenon. 

Cover each chop thickly with a mixture of minced ham, 
marjoram, and breadcrumbs, blended with butter, onion juice, 
and parsley. Wrap each chop in a well-buttered Soyer paper- 
bag and bake in a hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Stewed Lamb's Heart (Mutton). 

Wash and slice three lamb's hearts, being careful to cut 
across the grain of the flesh. Brown these well in a stew- 
pan with three tablespoonfuls of butter. Then add sufficient 
hot water to almost cover the meat. Season with a little 
pepper and salt, a couple of bay leaves, and two or three 
slices of lemon. Cover and simmer gently for one hour, fre- 
quently stirring, and if necessary, adding a little more water. 
When quite done remove the meat to a hot dish, thicken the 
gravy with a little flour, and pour it over. 

This dish should be eaten as hot as possible, as the meat 
is less palatable when cold. 

Bredee (Mutton), 

Cut two pounds of lean neck of mutton into small pieces. 



170 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Chop up two medium-sized onions and fry them in an ounce 
and a half of butter or fat until lightly browned. Now add 
the meat and fry quickly for a few minutes, stirring contin- 
ually. Add two pounds of sliced tomatoes, a small piece of 
red chili finely minced, and pepper and salt to taste. 

Place in a saucepan with enough water to not quite cover the 
mixture. Cover the pot closely and cook gently for about 
two hours. Just before serving add a little sugar to the stew. 

Broiled Mutton Chop. 

Cut a chop from a tenderloin of mutton, trim off a little 
of the fat and scatter a little salt and black pepper over the 
meat, then dip it into some warm butter (just sufficient to coat 
the meat) and put it aside for about an hour before it is to be 
cooked. Then put it on a hot gridiron which has been rubbed 
over with dripping and broil it over a clear brisk fire for about 
twenty minutes, allowing more or less time according to the 
thickness of the meat, and whether it is to be well done or 
not. For the first few minutes the gridiron should be placed 
very near the fire to close the pores of the meat, then it should 
be slightly raised and the chop allowed to cook until it is 
done. It should only be turned once and this after the ex- 
piration of half the time that is to be allowed for cooking; 
a broiled chop should be served directly it is taken from the 
gridiron, and it should be garnished with fried potatoes and 
slices of fried tomato. 

Deviled Chops (Mutton). 

Mix a quarter of a pint of thick brown sauce with one des- 
sertspoonful of chutney, and one saltspoonful of made mustard, 
one saltspoonful of curry powder. Place some neatly trimmed 
shoulder of mutton chops in a dish, and cover them with the 
mixture and leave them for ten minutes; then take them up, 
flour them well, so that the mixture may adhere, and dip 
them into a beaten egg and cover them thickly with fine dry 
breadcrumbs (or omit the eggs and crumbs if preferred) and 
fry them at once in plenty of boiling fat. Put a little frill 
on each chop, and arrange them down the middle of a hot 
dish and surround with artichokes prepared thus: Peel and 
trim some artichokes, and cut them into rather thin slices, and 
fry them in boiling fat until they are brown and crisp. 

Dolmas (Mutton). 

Mince finely any odds and ends of cold mutton, and mix 
it with an equal quantity of boiled rice, adding the yolk of an 



STANDARD COOKERY. 171 

egg and sufficient milk to form a thick paste. Season to taste 
and fill a number of lettuce leaves with the mixture, rolling 
each carefully. After simmering in a little stock or water for 
half an hour, drain and arrange them on a dish, and pour over 
them a sauce made of yolk of egg beaten in milk, with a little 
parsley and lemon juice. 

Frickadels (Mutton). 

Soak two thick slices of stale bread in milk, squeeze out any 
superfluous milk, and beat the bread well with a fork. Rub 
two tomatoes through a fine sieve and mix the soaked bread 
and tomato pulp with half a pound of finely chopped raw 
mutton and a very small minced onion. Add pepper, salt, and 
nutmeg to taste, and stir in one lightly beaten egg. Shape this 
mixture into small rissoles, coat them with egg and bread- 
crumbs, and fry in hot fat until well browned. 

Have ready three-quarters of a pint of curry sauce, into 
this put the rissoles, and stew very gently for about half an 
hour. 

Frickadel of Mutton. 

Mince two pounds of lean mutton with two ounces of lean 
bacon which have been soaked in boiling milk, one onion, 
one dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, and sufficient salt, 
pepper and nutmeg to season the meat. Moisten it with the 
eggs and roll it up neatly into the shape of a large sausage. 
Tie the meat in a piece of buttered muslin, and stew it gently 
in the brown sauce for two hours, but allow an extra half 
hour if fresh meat is used. When done remove the muslin 
from the meat and strain the sauce over it. 

Grilled Fillets (Mutton). 

Cut some thick slices from the leg of mutton, trim them into 
squares and after brushing them over with warm dripping 
and seasoning them with a little black pepper, grill them over 
a clear fire. Serve the fillets with as little delay as possible 
on a bank of cabbage prepared as spinach and surround with 
sauce. The trimmings for the fillets can be utilized for a break- 
fast dish, thus: — Fry the scraps with the fillets, then pass 
them through a mincing machine with a slice of cooked bacon; 
flour the mince lightly and put it into a saucepan in which a 
small piece of butter has been melted and stir until it is 
thoroughly hot. Then add salt, pepper and a little Worcester 
sauce, and sufficient stock is added, and then spread it on 



172 STANDARD COOKERY. 

squares of hot buttered or fried toast and scatter some hot 
brown crumbs over the top. 

Hot Pot (Mutton). 

Remove the fat from eight mutton chops and chop the bones 
so that they are quite short. Put a layer of parboiled potatoes 
which have been cut into slices, at the bottom of an earthen- 
ware dish, scatter a little minced onion and some chopped pars- 
ley over the potatoes, then put in four of the chops, season 
them well with salt, black pepper, and a little curry powder, 
and cover them with some thin slices of mutton kidney. On 
the latter place another layer of potatoes, and proceed as before, 
finishing with potatoes on the top; pour in sufficient stock to 
about three-parts fill the dish, and set it in a moderately hot 
oven in a tin containing hot water; cover the dish closely 
and let the hot-pot cook for fully two hours. On removing it 
from the oven add a little more stock, which should be boil- 
ing; a tablespoonful of tomato catsup, mixed with the stock, will 
greatly improve the flavor. The hot-pot should be served in 
the dish in which it is cooked. 

Irish Stew. 

Cut up about two pounds of neck of mutton (either the 
middle or scrag end) and trim off the superfluous fat. Coat 
a stewpan with some clarified dripping and put in the onions, 
cut into rather thick slices, and the meat, and fry without 
browning for a quarter of an hour; then remove the meat and 
stir in the flour, and when mixed with the fat in the pan add 
about a pint of Mrarm water ; replace the meat, cover the stew- 
pan and put it into a moderately hot oven. Cut up some pota- 
toes (about two pounds) into quarters, and two carrots, two 
turnips and a stick of celery into rather large dice-shaped 
pieces, and after the stew has cooked for an hour put in the 
vegetables and let it simmer for another hour, or rather longer, 
according to the temperature of the oven. Dish up the meat 
in a circle w^ith the carrot and turnip in the middle, and put 
the potatoes round the dish ; add a tablespoonful of finely- 
minced parsley to the sauce, let it boil up, and pour it over the 
meat and vegetables. 

Mutton CoUops. 

Cut some rounds about the size of a twenty-five cent piece 
from the slices of mutton, fry them in hot drippings with a few 
slices of onion until they are evenly browned on both sides, 
and then stew the meat in thick brown sauce for two hours, 




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STANDARD COOKERY. 173 

and serve the collops surrounded by a border of mashed tur- 
nips. 

Mutton Chops. 

Divide tv^^o pounds of best end of the neck of mutton into 
chops, trim off all the fat, chop the bones so that they are all 
the same length and scrape them until they are quite bare 
up to where the meat begins. Flour the chops and dip them 
into beaten egg, then cover thickly with fine dry breadcrumbs, 
which have been seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and 
press them lightly between the hands and let them stand for 
about twenty minutes before they are fried. Dish up the 
chops on a low wall of mashed potatoes, fill the center with 
macaroni and celery prepared according to the directions given 
below and pour some brown gravy round the dish. Boil a 
small quantity of large pipe macaroni and a stick or two of 
celery until they are tender, then cut them up into small pieces 
and mix them with some thick white sauce which has been 
flavored with a little grated cheese. A small cauliflower, di- 
vided into little branches can be substituted for the macaroni. 

Mutton Chops with Mashed Potato. 

Trim all the fat from some neck of mutton chops, and 
scrape the bone. Melt an ounce of beef dripping in a stewpan, 
then put in one large or two small onions cut into rather thick 
slices, the carrot and half a medium-sized turnip (also sliced) 
and a few pieces of parsley. Arrange the chops on the veg- 
etables, put a piece of greased paper over them, and fry them 
gently for ten minutes; then pour in (under the paper) about 
a quarter of a pint of stock (or water) and let the chops 
simmer for forty minutes. Take them from the stewpan, and 
press them between two flat dishes, or baking sheets, with a 
weight on top until they are cold, then dip them into beaten 
egg, and cover them thickly with fine, dry, breadcrumbs, and 
after leaving them for about half an hour fry the chops in 
plenty of boiling fat until they are a delicate golden brown. 
Mash some potatoes, mix it with a little milk, season it with 
salt and pepper, and beat it with a wooden spoon until it is 
light and creamy; then arrange it in the form of a low bank, 
about two inches in width and three inches in height straight 
down the middle of a hot dish, smoothing it with a knife so 
that it is perfectly compact and even, make eight little slits 
(or divisions) in the surface of the potato (or as many divi- 
sions as there are chops) ; take up one chop at a time by 



174 STANDARD COOKERY. 

the bone and press it lightly into one of the divisions of the 
potatoes so that it stands firmly but in a slightly slanting posi- 
tion ; when all the chops are arranged in the same way, put 
a little frill on the end of the bones and pour some thick brown 
sauce round the dish. The above is an excellent method of 
ensuring chops being tender. * 

Triple Chops (Mutton). 

Take three mutton chops, place the best one in the middle 
and tie in a bundle. Then place them upon the grill over a 
good fire and turn the bundle frequently so that all the gravy 
may soak into the middle chop. When the two outside ones 
are over-cooked throw them aside and serve the middle one. 

The outside chops can be used in the stock pot as well as 
in other ways. 

Mutton Steak Pudding. 

Cut the meat into small pieces and season them well with 
pepper and salt and roll them in flour. Line a small pudding- 
dish with a light suet crust, and fill it as follows: — Put in 
a layer of raw potatoes cut into rather thick slices, then a 
layer of meat and over the latter sprinkle a little chopped 
parsley and finely-minced onion, a few pieces of celery and salt, 
black pepper and a dust of cayenne. When the dish is full 
pour in some weak stock before covering in the pudding; tie 
the dish in a cloth which has been dipped into hot water, and 
then dredged with a little flour, and let the pudding boil stead- 
ily for three hours. 

Scalloped Mutton. 

Put half an ounce of dripping into a stewpan with a dessert- 
spoonful of chopped onion, and fry until the onion is a light 
brown, then stir in half an ounce of cornflour, mix well and 
moisten with half a pint, or rather more, of vegetable stock 
made with Edwards' Desiccated Soup; season with salt and 
pepper; let the sauce boil up and then simmer for ten minutes 
and pass it through a gravy strainer. Cut some slices from a 
cold leg of mutton and trim off the skin and fat. Butter a 
pie-dish and place a layer of the meat in it, cover it with sauce 
and sprinkle with a little chopped parsley, then put more meat 
and sauce alternately until the dish is full. Cover the top 
thickly with dry breadcrumbs, which have been seasoned with 
salt and pepper, place a few little pieces of butter or dripping on 
the crumbs, and put the dish into a moderately hot oven until 
the bread is nicely browned. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 175 

Stuffed Shoulder of Mutton. 

Get the butcher to remove the blade bone from a small shoul- 
der of mutton (the bone will make excellent soup) ; wipe the 
meat with a cloth wrung out of borax and water, and then 
fill the place from which the bone was removed with a force- 
meat made according to the following directions : Shape the 
meat and tie it up securely with narrow tape, and roast (or 
bake) it in the usual way. Send to table with brown gravy 
poured round the dish. For the forcemeat, to every half-pint 
of fresh white breadcrumbs, which have been passed through 
a sieve, add two ounces of very finely-chopped suet (weighing 
it after it has been chopped), a tablespoonful of minced parsley, 
a teaspoonful of finely-powdered mixed herbs, half a teaspoon- 
ful of grated lemon-peel, a teaspoonful of chopped onion and 
a tablespoonful of lean bacon, or ham, which has been passed 
through a meat chopper. Season with salt, black pepper, 
cayenne and a little powdered mace, and moisten the force- 
meat with one well-beaten egg and a little milk; mix it thor- 
oughly and use at once, so that it may not become dry. 

Pigeon Pie. 

Cut two pigeons into pieces of convenient size and fry them 
in two ounces of clarified dripping. Take them out of the pan 
and put them aside to cool. Fry a small onion (sliced) until 
lightly browned in the dripping used to cook the birds. Then 
stir in a small bunch of sweet herbs and parsley (tied 
together), one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar and season with 
pepper, salt and nutmeg. Let the sauce boil up, and then sim- 
mer for fifteen minutes, color it with browning, and strain it 
into a bowl. Cut one pound of rump-steak into small pieces 
which should be almost square, dust them with pepper and salt, 
and roll them up. Place the rolls of meat in a pie-dish, together 
with the pieces of pigeon. Sprinkle over them some chopped 
parsley and a little lean minced bacon, fill up the dish with 
the prepared sauce, cover it closely and put it into a moderately 
hot oven for one hour. Let the meat get cold, add some pieces 
of hard-boiled egg, and cover it with pastry, leaving a small 
aperture in the middle of the crust, to be filled in with an orna- 
mental rose of pastry (the latter should be baked separately) 
after the pie is finished. Brush the crust over with beaten egg, 
and bake the pie in a moderately hot oven. 

Salmi of Pigeons. 

Put half an ounce of dripping and half an ounce of bacon 



176 STANDARD COOKERY. 

fat into a stewpan with one onion (cut into slices), two toma- 
toes (also sliced), and a little parsley; fry the vegetables until 
the onion is lightly browned, then stir in one ounce of flour 
and half an ounce of cornflour, and when smoothly mixed with 
the dripping, pour in gradually the stock; let the sauce boil up, 
then draw the pan to the side of the stove where .it can only 
simmer gently, and leave it for a quarter of an hour. Season 
it with salt and pepper, add one teaspoonful of tarragon vine- 
gar and sufficient Parisian essence to make it a rich brown. 
Roast the pigeons and while they are still hot cut them up and 
remove the skin ; put them into a clean stewpan and strain 
the sauce over them. Cover the pan and place it in a larger 
pan of hot water in a moderately hot oven for an hour. Ar- 
range the salmi neatly on a hot dish, and garnish it with kite- 
shaped sippets. 

Stewed Pigeons. 
Put one ounce of beef dripping into a stewpan with a small 
onion (cut into slices), two tomatoes (also sliced), and a little 
parsley; fry the vegetables until the onion is lightly browned, 
then stir in one ounce of flour and half an ounce of cornflour, 
and when smoothly mixed with the dripping pour in gradually 
the stock ; let the sauce boil up, then draw the pan to the side 
of the stove where it can only simmer gently, and leave it for 
a quarter of an hour. Season it with salt and pepper, add a 
teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar and sufficient browning to make 
it a rich brown. Roast three or four pigeons, and while they 
are still hot cut them up and remove the skin, put them into 
a clean stewpan and strain the sauce over them. Cover the 
pan and place it in a larger pan of hot water in a moderately 
hot oven for an hour. Arrange the stew neatly on a hot dish 
and garnish it with kite-shaped sippets. 

Brawn (Pork). 

Wash half a pig's head thoroughly and remove the brains, 
pieces of bone and veins, then put it in a saucepan with enough 
cold salted water to cover it. Let the water boil, skim it well, 
and then keep it simmering for two hours; by this time the 
bones should be removed without difficulty. Cut the meat up 
quickly with a sharp knife into small square pieces; season it 
liberally with salt, black pepper, half a teaspoonful of powdered 
cloves, and half a teaspoonful of nutmeg, then pack it tightly 
into a mold (or round cake tin) of suitable size, put a plate 
(or a. gaucer) on the meat and on the top a heavy weight to 



STANDARD COOKERY. 177 

press the meat firmly, and leave in a cool place until the fol- 
lowing day. When the brawn is required, dip the mold (or 
tin) into warm water and turn the contents on to a dish. 
Serve, garnished with parsley. 

Kluskis (Pork). 

Mince one pound of fresh lean pork and mix it with half its 
weight of breadcrumbs soaked in wine. Flavor with pepper 
and salt and the minced rind of a lemon. Make this mixture 
into little flat cakes, cover with breadcrumbs and fry in butter 
or lard. 

Any odds and ends of lean meat can be treated in this way, 
but pork gives the best result. 

Lome (Pork). 

Cut thick slices of pork, not too fat, and let them soak 
for twenty-four hours in a mixture of lemon juice, garlic, 
pimento, and just a suspicion of cayenne. Wipe carefully 
and grill the slices of meat over a clear fire. 
Pork Chops. 

Cut as many chops as are required from a piece of the neck 
of pork, trim them neatly, brush them over with warm drip- 
ping, and cook them in a hot frying-pan, which has been 
rubbed over with dripping, for twelve minutes. Remove them 
from the pan, and press them between two dishes for a few 
minutes until they are cool. Then flour the chops, dip them 
into beaten egg and cover them thickly with fine dry bread- 
crumbs, which have been seasoned with salt, black pepper, and 
a dust of curry powder, and mixed with some finely-chopped 
parsley and onion. Leave the chops for ten or fifteen min- 
utes for the crumbs to harden, and then fry them in the usual 
way until they are nicely browned. Dish them up with fried 
apples in the middle of the dish, and surround with thick 
brown sauce. The apples should be prepared thus: Peel some 
apples, which are not very sour, cut them into quarters and par- 
boil them, then drain them thoroughly on a cloth and fry them 
quickly over a clear fire in a small quantity of boiling dripping 
until they are brown. 

Poerkoell (Pork and Veal). 

Cut a pound of lean pork and two pounds of shin of veal 
into small squares and fry in butter seasoned with onion, 
cayenne pepper, and mixed herbs. Place the whole in an 
earthenware cooking-pot or enameled saucepan, cover with 
three cupfuls of clear stock, and stew for an hour. 



178 STANDARD COOKERY. 

This should be served with a border of any vegetables in 
season, and is one of the most popular dishes in Hungary. 

Curried Rabbit. 

Cut one rabbit vi^hich has been prepared for cooking into neat 
pieces, dip them into melted dripping, and cover them thickly 
with one tablespoonful of curry powder which has been mixed 
with two tablespoonfuls of flour. Put three ounces of clarified 
dripping into a stewpan with one large and two small onions 
finely minced, and fry for three minutes ; then add the pieces 
of meat and let them fry quickly for fifteen minutes, turning 
them now and then. Peel an apple and chop it into very small 
pieces; add it to the curry, also one teaspoonful of sweet chutney 
and one saltspoonful of salt; then pour in the stock (or water) 
which has been flavored with vegetables ; stir the curry, cover 
the pan and place it in a moderate oven for three hours. When 
ready, take the stewpan from the oven, arrange the meat on a 
hot dish, and stir the milk into the sauce; let it simmer for a 
minute or two, add a squeeze of lemon juice, and strain it 
over the meat. Serve with boiled rice on a separate dish. 

Fricassee of Rabbit. 

Cut a young rabbit into joints and neat pieces; wash the 
meat well and dry it. Put the butter (two ounces, or clarified 
dripping) into a stewpan with an onion (sliced), two or three 
sticks of celery (cut into small pieces), and one slice of fat 
bacon. As soon as the butter (or dripping) has melted, put in 
the pieces of rabbit, and let them fry gently for twenty minutes, 
turn constantly and take care that it does not acquire any color. 
At the end of the time named, put the rabbit on a plate and 
keep it hot on the rack. Stir the flour into the pan containing 
the vegetables, mixing it well with the fat ; then add by degrees 
half a pint of hot boiling milk. Continue to stir the sauce 
until it is smooth and thick, then draw the pan aside where it 
can simmer. Season with salt, pepper and a little mace and 
a few thin strips of lemon-peel. Place the pieces of rabbit in 
it, cover the pan closely and let it cook gently for not less 
than an hour. Dish it up on a hot dish ; let the sauce boil and 
after removing the pan from the stove add a few drops of tar- 
ragon vinegar, and pass it through a gravy strainer over the 
meat. Garnish the dish with little three-cornered sippets of 
fried bread and rolls of crisply-fried bacon. 

Olla Podrida (Rabbit). 
Partly boil and cut up a rabbit and place it in an earthen- 



STANDARD COOKERY. 179 

ware pot with two cups of stock, a dozen oysters, a little 
mace, pepper, salt, and herbs. Cook until tender, which will 
take about an hour. Remove the meat, and after straining the 
gravy add a minced anchovy, a tablespoonful of port or sherry. 
Pour the gravy over the rabbit and serve with mixed cooked 
vegetables arranged round the dish. 

Grilled Sweetbreads. 

Cook two large sweetbreads for twenty minutes in a cupful 
of clear soup. When cold dip them in thick cream, roll in 
breadcrumbs and wrap each in a very thin slice of ham. Next 
tie each sweetbread in oiled paper and broil cautiously, being 
careful that the paper does not catch fire. After removing the 
paper, serve the sweetbreads with spinach. 

Hashed Tongue. 

Slice the remains of a boiled ox tongue — a canned one will 
answer the purpose — and steep for an hour in a mixture of 
lemon juice and oil. Now drain and place in a buttered fry- 
ing-pan with a few sliced button mushrooms, a little minced 
onion and parsley, and a sprinkling of pepper and salt. Add a 
tablespoonful of sherry and a teaspoonful of lemon juice and 
cook slowly for a quarter of an hour, taking care that the meat 
does not burn. 

Just before serving add a little hot stock and a spoonful of 
tomato sauce. 

Meat Macedoine. 

Line a fancy mold with aspic jelly, and fill the center with 
a mixture of cooked and sliced tongue, liver sausage, sweet- 
bread, mushrooms and truffles. Add more liquid jelly, and 
when cold turn out on a dish. 

Almost any kinds of cold meat may be used up in this way, 
the greater the variety the better. The pieces should be ar- 
ranged so as to have a pretty appearance when turned out of 
the mold. 

Baked Veal. 

Cut the meat from a shoulder of veal, divide into small cubes 
and parboil. Let the bones and trimmings simmer separately 
in a quart of water for two hours to make gravy. The meat 
is now placed in a pie dish, sprinkled with a little salt, half a 
grated nutmeg, the grated rind of a lemon, and just a suspicion 
of cayenne pepper. A tablespoonful of butter, with which has 
been incorporated the same quantity of flour, should be divided 



i8o STANDARD COOKERY. 

into little pieces and scattered over the meat, then the gravy 
from the bones is strained and poured over it, and the whole 
baked in a hot oven until well browned. 

China Stew (Veal or Mutton). 

Cut one pound of cooked veal (or mutton) into small dice- 
shaped pieces, and remove all fat and gristle. Fry a tablespoon- 
ful of minced onion in a stewpan containing one ounce of 
melted butter or clarified dripping (the onion must not be allowed 
to get brown) then add the meat; sprinkle over it the curry 
powder, and stir it gently for six minutes. Pour in the thick 
white sauce, made with equal quantities of white stock and 
milk, or milk only can be used, cover the pan, place it in a 
moderately hot oven, and let the meat stew gently for one and 
a half hours. Boil the peas with a few leaves of mint, and 
when they are just tender, drain them well, add them and three 
tablespoonfuls of very finely-shred lettuce to the meat and let 
it continue to cook for another half hour. Arrange some 
carefully boiled rice on a hot dish, put the stewed meat and 
peas into the middle and scatter some chopped parsley over the 
top. 

Coulibac (Forcemeat). 

Make a light paste, roll very thin, and cut it square. Spread 
this thickly with a forcemeat made of minced veal, mushrooms, 
eggs, rice, herbs, and butter, moistened with stock. Roll up the 
whole, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and bake for one hour. 

Forcemeat Puddings. 

Butter well some small molds and line them with a force- 
meat made of minced veal or chicken. Fill the center with 
minced duck or game, and cover with more of the first force- 
meat. Smooth the top with the blade of a knife and poach 
carefully in boiling water for ten minutes. Take them out and 
let them cool a little, then remove the puddings from the molds. 
Dip each first in beaten egg and then in breadcrumbs, and fry 
them in butter or good fat until they are a golden color. 
Goulasch (Veal). 

Cut freshly-boiled veal into rather small pieces and fry in 
butter, seasoning with minced onion, cayenne pepper, and salt. 
Add one pint of strong brown stock, and serve with small pota- 
toes and onions fried in butter till thoroughly browned. The 
vegetables should be arranged round the meat in the dish. 
Kahab (Veal). 

Cut one pound of lean veal into thick slices about two inches 



STANDARD COOKERY. i8i 

square and place them in an ordinary cooking-pot with two 
ounces of butter. Add a quarter of a teaspoonful of caraway 
seeds, a very small sliced onion, half a lemon thinly sliced, and 
sprinkle with pepper and salt. Fry the whole gently for ten 
minutes. Now add half a pint of sour cream, place the cook- 
ing-pot in the oven and let the whole bake gently till the meat 
is tender. This will probably take three-quarters of an hour. 

The dish should be served garnished with tufts of parsley 
and slices of lemon. 

Liver Dumplings. 

Strictly speaking this should be made of goose liver; but 
calves' liver makes an excellent substitute. 

Mix together four beaten eggs and one ounce of melted but- 
ter, and flavor with parsley, salt, and mixed spice. Stir this 
over the fire until it has thickened slightly, and add a cupful 
of chopped boiled liver and a good handful of breadcrumbs 
moistened with milk. Make the whole into balls and let them 
simmer in any good broth for half an hour. If preferred, the 
mixture may simply be baked in a dish instead of being made 
into dumplings, and will be found equally palatable. 

Fried Liver. 

Cut one pound of calves' liver (which has been previously 
washed and dried) into rather thick slices, flour them, season 
with salt and pepper, and put them into a frying-pan (or shal- 
low stew-pan will answer the purpose) containing three ounces 
of hot beef dripping and let it cook gently, turning it constantly 
until it is done. Place the liver on a hot dish with some fried 
tomatoes, and pour some thick brown sauce round the dish, 
which should be made as follows : — Stir a large tablespoonful 
of flour quickly into the dripping which is left in the pan and 
when it is smoothly mixed add gradually a quarter of a pint 
of brown stock and a dessertspoonful of tomato catsup; let 
the sauce boil up, season it with pepper, cayenne and salt and 
strain it into the dish. 

Kromeskies (Veal or Mutton). 

Mince some cooked veal (or mutton) very finely, season it 
with salt and pepper and a little mace, and add a small quantity 
of grated lemon-peel. Put the mince into a small stewpan and 
add sufficient white sauce to moisten slightly, and when it is 
thoroughly heated stir in some raw beaten egg (half an egg 
is enough for half a pound of meat), and spread it out on a 
dish. As soon as the mince is cold, form it into little cork- 



i82 STANDARD COOKERY. 

shaped rissoles and envelop each in a very thin slice (cut so 
that it just covers the rissole) of partially cooked fat bacon. 
Flour the little rolls lightly, dip them into a thick batter and 
fry them in deep, boiling fat. Serve on a hot dish covered wth 
a paper d'oyley, and garnish with fried parsley. 

Minuten Fleisch (Veal). 

Cut one and a half pounds of lean veal into very thin slices, 
then cut each of these into small squares and sprinkle with 
pepper and salt. Put them into a pan with about half a tum- 
blerful of claret and leave until thoroughly steeped. Next take 
out the pieces of veal, dip each into flour, and place in a but- 
tered baking dish, sprinkling with a little chopped parsley and 
the juice of a lemon. Add half a cupful of clear stock and 
bake until the meat is quite tender. This will take about forty 
minutes. 

Serve the veal with the sauce poured around it. 
Mock Rabbit (Veal and Beef). 

Mince one pound each of lean veal and raw beef and mix 
it with a cupful of breadcrumbs, four beaten eggs, a spoonful 
of lemon juice, and a little pepper, salt, nutmeg, and herbs. 
After thoroughly blending, shape the whole in the form of a 
loaf and cover with a mixture of egg and breadcrumbs. Line 
a pan with thin slices of pork, place the mock rabbit upon it, 
and bake in the oven for forty minutes, basting frequently. 

This may be eaten either hot or cold, and is a favorite sup- 
per dish in Germany. 

Punski (Veal). 

Fry a fillet of veal with a sliced onion. When cold chop it 
finely and mix with the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs and 
some parsley, adding sufficient stock to well moisten it. Make 
some pates of puff paste and fill with the meat. Brush with 
the yolk of an egg and bake until brown. 

Savory Veal Chops v(nth Spaghetti. 

Trim as many cutlets as are required for a dish, removing 
nearly all the fat and scraping the bones so that they are en- 
tirely free from skin. Season some fine dry breadcrumbs with 
salt, pepper and a little nutmeg and mix them with some finely- 
minced parsley, the powdered herbs and a small quantity of 
chopped onion. Flour the chops and dip them into some 
beaten egg, then cover them thickly with the prepared bread- 
crumbs ; put them aside for a quarter of an hour and fry them 
in plenty of boiling fat. Cook some spaghetti (very fine 



STANDARD COOKERY. 183 

macaroni) in plenty of boiling water, which has been slightly- 
salted, until it is tender; drain it thoroughly, then return it to 
the hot pan and stir into it a piece of butter and some tomato 
catsup. When it is hot arrange it in a mold in the middle of a 
dish ; place the chops round it and pour some clear brown sauce 
into the dish. 

Veal Cream. 

Mince and pound thoroughly a pound of lean veal, add an 
equal quantity of breadcrumbs, the yolk of one egg and the 
beaten whites of two, and sufficient milk to make the whole 
into a moderately thick paste. Add seasoning to taste, and pour 
the mixture into a well-buttered mold. Let it steam for one 
hour. 

Cottage Pie (Mince). 

Rub a pie-dish over lightly with a layer of beef dripping, 
then put in sufficient of the mince to come within an inch of 
the top of the dish. Have ready the mashed potato which 
should be moistened with milk and well seasoned with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg; spread it evenly over the meat, and let 
it be thick enough to form a covering the shape of a pastry 
pie-crust. Smooth the potato with a wet knife, then mark 
it in lines with a fork, and place little pieces of dripping at 
intervals all over the potato. Bake the pie in a moderate oven 
for an hour, and place it on the hottest shelf for the last fifteen 
minutes or so, so that it may be well browned. 

Roman Pie. 

Cut up about a pound of cooked meat into small pieces, 
removing all the fat ; chop two ounces of fat bacon rather 
coarsely and cut three ounces of macaroni into moderately 
thick rings. Put half a pint of milk into a saucepan with one 
small onion, a few strips of lemon-peel, and a blade of mace; 
when the milk boils draw the pan to the side of the stove and 
let it simmer very gently for half an hour. Cook one ounce of 
butter and one ounce of flour together for a few minutes with- 
out letting them become brown, then add the milk, stirring it 
quickly until the sauce is smooth and thick; season it with 
salt and pepper and strain it into a bowl and add the meat, 
bacon and macaroni. Butter a plain tin mold of a suitable 
size, scatter it thickly with finely broken vermicelli and line it 
with some light paste of medium thickness; fill it with the pre- 
pared meat, cover it with a layer of paste, and bake the pie in 
a well-heated oven until the paste is thoroughly cooked. When 



i84 STANDARD COOKERY. 

it is done, turn it from the mold on to a hot dish and sur- 
round with tomato sauce. If beef is used, brown stock must 
replace the milk. 

Savory Pasties. 
Coarsely mince equal quantities of cooked meat and ham, 
using a sharp knife for the purpose, and season with celery, 
salt and pepper. Have ready some thick white (or brown) 
sauce, which has been delicately flavored and mix suiificient 
of it with the mince to moisten it. Roll out some paste 
to about one-eighth of an inch in thickness, and cut it into 
rounds of about the size of a claret glass ; spread half the rounds 
■with the mince, scatter a little parsley and some finely-chopped 
onion over the meat, and cover it with the remaining rounds of 
paste ; wet the edges and pinch them together, brush the top of 
the pasties over with beaten egg (or milk) and bake them in a 
quick oven. 

Deviled Meat. 

Prepare a mixture as follows: — Put two tablespoonfuls of 
thick brown gravy sauce into a bowl, add a dessertspoonful of 
chutney paste, a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, a teaspoonful 
of Worcester sauce, a quarter of a teaspoonful of made mus- 
tard, six drops of lemon juice (or vinegar), and a dust of curry 
powder. Cut some slices of any kind of cooked meat, and 
spread them evenly with the mixture, and put them into a cool 
place until the sauce has set; then lightly flour the prepared 
meat and dip it into beaten egg, and cover it thickly with bread- 
crumbs and after letting it stand for a short time, fry it in 
clarified dripping, cook them in quick oven for fifteen minutes. 
In either case the slices of meat should be served with fried 
potatoes in the middle of the dish. 

Mince with Vegetable Marrow. 

Remove the skin from a small vegetable marrow and cut 
it into rounds of about an inch and a half in thickness; place 
the pieces of marrow in a colander and put the latter into a 
stewpan of boiling salted water, and cook the marrow until 
it is just tender, but do not allow it to become soft enough to 
break. Drain the vegetable carefully on a hot cloth, remove 
the seeds and the stringy portion but do not make a hole right 
through the rounds ; then put them on a hot dish, fill them neatly 
with the mince, scatter a little minced parsley over it and pour 
some sauce round the dish. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 185 

Meat Dumplings. 

Meat dumplings may be made in two forms, one being made 
of the thinnest dough, and the other from a light spongy dough, 
such as is used for an old-fashioned English rump-steak pud- 
ding. 

Any kind of raw or cooked meat or fish can be used. All 
bone, gristle, and skin must be removed, and the meat either 
minced or cut into long shreds. It is then mixed with minced 
or sliced onion, green chili, celery, or any other green veg- 
etables that are available and well seasoned with pepper, salt, 
and, if liked, Worcestershire sauce. 

When thin dough is used a tablespoonful of this mixture 
is wrapped in a piece of dough and steamed for about an hour. 
If the dumpling is boiled it is much more likely to break down. 

When the other kind of dough is used the flour should be 
leavened with yeast or mixed with baking powder, and should 
be rolled about a quarter of an inch thick. This, when steamed, 
will expand to double thickness. 

Cassoulic. 
Chop up any cold meat and mix it with minced bacon and 
onion. Add half as much boiled haricot beans, which should 
be rubbed through a sieve, and sufficient stock to moisten the 
whole. Flavor with pepper, salt, parsley, thyme, marjoram, and 
a little nutmeg, and place in a dish, covering the whole thickly 
with breadcrumbs. Bake for half an hour and serve with 
tomato sauce. 

SOYER'S PAPER-BAG COOKERY. 

ENTREES. 

Every kind of entree and small dish of that nature can be 
easily cooked by Soyer's paper-bag system, thereby retaining 
the dainty flavors and seasonings which should be a feature of 
such dishes. Among the entrees that follow will be found 
many stews, for which the gentle and thorough cooking 
achieved by this system is eminently adapted. 

Mutton Chops. 

Trim and roll in a little butter, salt and pepper. Put in a 
small paper bag, seal up, and place on grid. Allow six min- 
utes in oven (350° Fahr.). 



i86 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Mutton Chop. 
Treat in the same way as above. Allow twelve minutes in 
a very hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Veal Chop. 
Same as above. Allow ten to twenty-Uve minutes in very 
hot oven (350° Fahr.)., according to thickness of chop. 

Sausages. 

Same as above. Allow twenty minutes in very hot oven. 

Fillet of Beef. 

Take a slice one and a half inches thick and well trimmed. 
Cut in two or three pieces horizontally. Trim a little, by 
paring off the corners, to make each piece round. Season 
with salt and pepper as desired. Butter the paper bag well, 
also the fillet of beef. Add garnishing — as, for example, from 
four ounces to eight ounces of either mushrooms, tomatoes, 
artichoke bottoms, olives, a little anchovy, cooked and sieved 
spinach, or any other kind fancy may suggest. Place round 
the fillet; add one or two tablespoonfuls of any kind of sauce 
(this is purely a matter of taste). Put on grid. Allow ten to 
fifteen minutes in very hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

A large fillet of beef or steak, plain or garnished, can be 
cooked in a buttered or greased paper bag, but will require 
fifteen to twenty minutes in very hot oven, according to size. 
It will turn out well grilled, with all the beautiful gravy re- 
tained. 

Escalop of Sweetbreads. 
Trim sweetbread and cut into four pieces. Trim four large 
mushrooms and tomatoes. Roll the sweetbread in flour, and 
put it between the mushrooms and tomatoes. Well butter your 
paper bag, and arrange the above nicely in the middle. Place 
one teaspoonful of breadcrumbs on top. Cover with a slice of 
fat bacon or ham, cut very thin. Flavor with sweet herbs as 
desired. Seal bag, and put on grid in hot oven. Allow twenty 
to twenty-five minutes (350° Fahr.). 

Sweetbread (Fancy Method). 

Half a small onion, one slice of carrot, a little ham (fat 
and lean), and a little of the trimming, all cut into small dice. 
A small bunch of sweet herbs and thyme, parsley and bay 
leaves. Put these on the bottom of the paper-bag, which should 
be well buttered. Lard your sweetbread (if desired). Round 
it put three or four mushrooms, two or three tomatoes (skinned 



STANDARD COOKERY. 187 

and all pips removed). Add a tablespoonful of stock Madeira, 
or sherry, according to taste. Seal bag. Put on grid. Allow 
txventy-Uve minutes in hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

If color and thick sauce are desired, mix a quarter of a tea- 
spoonful of arrowroot with the vegetable, and a little burnt- 
sugar coloring. When you open the bag, remove the sweet- 
bread gently. Place on dish. Remove tomatoes, mushrooms, 
etc., and place round it. 'Put the whole of the contents of the 
bag (juice included) in a strainer and press with a wooden 
spoon into a clean, hot bowl standing in boiling water, then 
pour the gravy thus obtained over the sweetbread. 

Sweetbreads Au Naturel. 
Take four lambs' sweetbreads. Blanch them in boiling water. 
Take off the skins. Grease a bag thickly. Dust each sweet- 
bread with salt and pepper very lightly, and pour over each 
sweetbread a tablespoonful of cream. Slip the sweetbreads 
into the greased bag, cook in an only moderately hot oven (300° 
Fahr.) slowly for forty minutes. Open bag. Slip out gently 
on to hot dish. Surround with border of green peas and serve. 

Sweetbreads. 

Blanch a very fresh sweetbread by putting in a stewpan in 
cold water. Let it come slowly to the boil, but not quite to 
boil. Take the sweetbread from the stewpan and place at 
once in cold water. Turn a plate upside down, put the sweet- 
bread on top, then put another plate, the right way up, on the 
top of the sweetbread to obtain pressure. Place a weight on 
top, and leave it for thirty minutes or so. Then trim your 
sweetbread by removing the external skin, etc. Lard it if de- 
sired, but this is not absolutely necessary. 

Put a very thin slice of larding bacon on both sides of the 
sweetbread. Season to taste. Then take a paper bag and 
butter it at the bottom; place inside it the sweetbread with a 
little of the trimmings from the sweetbread round it. Seal bag 
and put on grid. Allow twenty minutes in hot oven (350° 
Fahr.). 

If a thick sauce is desired, roll the sweetbread well in flour 
before cooking. For invalids who do not wish any grease, 
put the juice in an odd dish and dust a little pepper on top. 
This will absorb all the fat, leaving the rich gravy. 

Curry of Beef, Veal or Poultry. 

Cut up the meat in small pieces, add two very finely-chopped 
peeled onions, one teaspoonful of Madras curry paste, one 



i88 STANDARD COOKERY. 

peeled and chopped apple, half a teaspoonful of sugar, a little 
lemon juice, a little bouquet of herbs tied up. Add one tea- 
spoonful of flour, half a tumblerful of boiling milk, and a 
banana and tomato if liked. Mix together. Place in the paper 
bag and then on grid at once. Allozv forty-five minutes ir, a 
hot oven (350° Fahr.). Rice to be boiled and served sep- 
'arately. 

Entree of Chicken. 

Cut up a chicken in pieces, dust with salt and pepper. Add 
one tablespoonful of flour, tomato or mushroom (if desired), 
or a little tomato catsup. Add a small chopped onion, accord- 
ing to taste, and a little bunch of bay leaf, parsley, and thyme. 
Place all in the middle of the bag. Add three tablespoonfuls 
of water, stock, or wine, according to taste. A little chopped 
ham or bacon (if desired) will add to the flavor. Seal bag 
up and place on grid, and allow forty-five minutes in hot oven 
(350° Fahr.). 

Any other poultry treated in the same way will give the 
same satisfactory result. The seasoning and garnish can be 
left to the taste of the cook. The viands will not spoil if 
left a little longer than forty-five minutes. 

Veal and Ham Pie. 

Make a paste in the ordinary way. Prepare the meat as 
usual, and put in the middle of the paste, which should be 
rolled to the thickness of about an eighth of an inch. Moisten 
the four corners and fold to cover the meat. Place in the 
paper bag, seal up, put on grid in a moderate oven (300° 
Fahr.). 

For one pound pie allozv forty-five minutes; three pounds, 
one hour; six pounds, one and a half hours; ten pounds, two 
hours. 

Hare or Rabbit (Roasted). 

Stuff and truss a hare or rabbit in the ordinary way. Well 
sprinkle with flour, and rub with cream, butter, or dripping. 
Place in a paper bag with seasoning (according to taste) in 
the usual way. Put on grid in hot oven (350° Fahr.). Allow 
forty-five minutes. 

Stewed Rabbit. 

Treat in the same way as the hare. It can be made most 
tender and palatable with only salt, pepper, and a little flour, 
and one chopped onion, three tablespoonfuls of water, and a 



STANDARD COOKERY. 189 

little dripping. Place in a paper bag. Allow forty minutes 
in a hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Stewed Hare. 

Cut up the hare in pieces, place on dish, add salt and pepper 
to taste. Add an apple and a little fat bacon or ham if de- 
sired. As a substitute, two ounces of butter or a tablespoonful 
of lard will be equally satisfactory. One large finely-chopped 
onion, bunch of sweet herbs (to taste), a large tablespoonful 
of flour. iMix together. Add a quarter of a tumbler of water, 
stock, or wine, mix with the other ingredients, place all to- 
gether in a paper bag, and lay on the grid. Allow forty-live 
minutes in a hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Irish Stew. 
Cut up two or three pounds of mutton in the ordinary way. 
Leave very little fat. Add salt and pepper to taste. Add six 
large onions, peeled and finely chopped, and two pounds of 
peeled and thinly-sliced medium-sized potatoes, and bunch of 
sweet herbs. Place above in a bag, and add half a tumbler 
of cold water. Place on grid in hot oven (350° Fahr.). Allow 
forty minutes. 

Sheep's Kidneys 

or any other kidney grill. Skin the kidney, split and place 
on skewer in the usual way. Season to taste, and add a little 
butter on top. Place in a well-buttered paper bag and seal. 
Place on grid in a very hot oven (350° Fahr.). Allow five 
minutes. 

Stewed Kidney 

of any kind except beef. Clean and cut up in several pieces, 
not too thin. Add salt and pepper to taste. For six kidneys 
add one teaspoonful of flour, or half a teaspoonful of arrow- 
root. Add a little chopped tomato and a few slices of mush- 
room. Add any kind of sauce, also one teaspoonful of sherry 
or Madeira (if desired), one shallot, not cut, or a small piece 
of onion, not cut, and a little chopped parsley. Mix all care- 
fully on a plate. Butter or grease the paper bag, seal up. 
Place on grid in very hot oven. Allow five minutes. The 
oven must be very hot (375° Fahr.). Remove onion or shallot 
before serving in a very hot dish. 

Beef, Veal, Pork, or Mutton, 

or any other meat can be treated by the same method. Cut 
up the meat in slices. Chop finely a small onion or shallot. 



190 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Add any kind of tomato sauce or catsup, also a few herbs (tied 
together), according to taste. Add fresh tomatoes or mush- 
room (according to taste), salt and pepper. Place a little but- 
ter with the above in the paper bag and one teaspoonful of 
flour. Mix together, and when bag is sealed up place on grid 
in hot oven (350° Fahr.) for forty minutes, when it will be 
ready, and can be served in paper bag or dished up in the or- 
dinary way. 

Curried Venison. 

Cut up three pounds of lean venison (mutton or beef can be 
used instead). Peel and chop three tomatoes, and add one 
large tablespoonful of flour, three finely-chopped onions, a 
large teaspoonful of Madras curry paste, a teaspoonful of 
Demerara sugar, a chopped apple, two tablespoonfuls of well- 
washed rice, and a pint of milk. Place in a paper bag, seal up, 
and cook in a moderate oven (350° Fahr.), for forty-five 
minutes. 

Fillet de Boeuf a la Mirande. 

Take a pound and a half of rump steak, and cut it into neat 
slices about three-eighths of an inch thick and two and a half 
inches long and broad. Dust each of these lightly with black 
pepper ; melt an ounce of butter and skim it free from froth ; 
add to it as much finely minced garlic as will go on the point 
of a very small knife. Lay the fillets in this, and let them 
steep for an hour, turning frequently (the dish must stand 
in a warm place or the butter will set). Then take out, put 
in a well-buttered bag and place on the grid in the oven, leav- 
ing it to cook for half an hour (300° Fahr.). Meanwhile, 
knead an ounce of flour with an ounce of butter, add to it by 
degrees half a pint of strong, well-flavored stock, place in a 
clean saucepan, and stir all one way until it is the consistency 
of cream ; then add to it half a pound of previously cooked 
mushrooms, the juice of half a lemon freed from pips, a tea- 
spoonful of China soy, and a couple of drops of anchovy es- 
sence. Make very hot. Pile up the mushrooms in the center 
of a hot entree dish, arrange the fillets round and garnish 
with a wall of mashed potatoes. Serve at once. 

Veal cutlet is also excellent cooked after this recipe, and so, 
too, is mutton steak. 

Croustades de Faisan a la Royale. 
Take the remains of a cold roast pheasant ; free it from 
skin and bone, and cut it into neat, small squares. Have ready 



STANDARD COOKERY. 191 

a little well-flavored brown sauce — sauce Madere is excellent 
for this purpose — add the pieces of pheasant to it, and make 
very hot in a well-greased bag. Have ready also half a dozen 
freshly fried croustades, and note that they should be very hot, 
too. Fill each with the above mixture, garnish with stoned 
olives which have been heated in a little sherry, and serve at 
once. 

The remains of a cold partridge are excellent heated in 
this fashion ; so, too, is duck, but in this latter case a sauce 
piquante should be used in place of brown or sauce Madere, 
as otherwise the croustade would be too rich for most people's 
liking. If a bag is used for this rechauffe it is impossible to 
tell the difference from freshly cooked game. 

Cotelettes a la Paysanne. 
Take from four to eight chops, mutton or lamb. Trim 
them of all superfluous fat. Scrape the bones neatly. Dust 
them with a little minced shallot and spiced seasoning, i.e., 
pepper, salt and a tiny grate of nutmeg, and a little celery 
salt mixed. Grease a bag thickly. Put in the chops. Add to 
them half a pint of half-cooked peas, an ounce of bacon (flank 
will do), cut small, a pound of new potatoes, and half a pint 
of stock or water. Note. — If four chops only are used a 
gill of stock will be sufficient. Fold over the bag. Put on 
the grid and cook in a moderately hot oven for an hour. Open 
bag. Empty out into a very hot dish. Arrange the peas and 
potatoes into a border with a heated fork. Stir up the gravy, 
and send to table. Note that the potatoes must be also par- 
boiled before being put into the bag. For lamb chops thirty 
minutes in 350° Fahr., is sufficient time to allozv. 

Chops a TEspagnol. 

Take four or six chops. Trim as directed in the fore- 
going recipe. Dust them with pepper and salt. Have ready a 
greased bag and six ounces of freshly-boiled rice. Mix with 
the rice the contents of a small bottle of tomato catsup. 
Place the rice in the bag. Then put in the chops on top of 
the rice. Fold, clip, put on the grid, and cook for half an 
hour in a moderately hot oven (300° Fahr.). Take out, dish 
up, and serve as hot as possible. If liked, the rice can be 
cooked with the chops; in this case it must first be soaked 
all night and then allowed an hour and a quarter's slow cook- 
ing. Note. — Arrange the rice as a border and serve chipped 
potatoes separately. 



192 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Cotelettes a la St. Cecile. 
Take four lamb chops, from half a pint to a pirnt of par- 
boiled peas, and a pound of parboiled new potatoes. Grease 
two bags thickly. Put the peas and potatoes, together with 
one and a half ounces of butter, in one bag. Place on grid and 
put into a moderately hot oven (300° Fahr.). Let them cook 
for tzvcnty minutes before putting in the bag with the chops. 
Meanwhile, trim the chops very neatly. Free them from su- 
perfluous fat. Flatten them well with the chop bat, and 
spread them on both sides with a layer of foiegras. Have 
ready some freshly-fried breadcrumbs. Sprinkle these lightly 
on each side of the chops. Take care not to overdo this. Place 
in a Soyer D size bag. Fold, clip, place on grid in the oven. 
Cook for twenty minutes. Dish up the peas and potatoes as a 
border. Put the chops in the middle. Pour their own gravy 
over them and serve at once. 

Cotellettes Aux Navettes. 

Take half a bunch of young French turnips, peel and trim 
them all as nearly as possible to one size. Dust them with salt 
and pepper and preserve. Take a pound and a half of mutton 
chops. Trim as above directed. Dust well with celery salt 
and a very little white pepper, and some salted flour. Grease 
a bag vi^ell. Put in half the turnips, then the chops, then the 
rest of the turnips. Add half a pint of chicken stock. Fold 
the bag, clip; place on the grid and cook slozvly for an hour 
and a half (300° Fahr.). Dish up on a hot dish, with the tur- 
nips as a border. Pour the sauce — which will be of a delicate 
creamy consistency and taste — over, and serve with asparagus, 
handed separately. 

This dish should be selected when there has been roast fowl 
the day beforehand, as the stock can be made from the cooked 
carcase of the fowl, as follows : — Break up the carcase into 
small pieces. Add any pieces of skin remaining, an onion 
stuck with a clove, a tiny bit of mace, and a good-sized sprig 
of well-washed parsley. Add rather more than half a pint of 
water. Bring to the boil, then simmer very slowly, and do 
not let it boil away or reduce at all for three-quarters of an 
hour. Strain ofif. Add salt to taste, and use as directed in the 
above recipe. 

Chops in a Hurry. 
Take four chops. Trim them well. Dust them lightly with 
salt and pepper. If no cooked peas are to hand, take a bottle 



STANDARD COOKERY. 193 

(not can) of peas, free them from the preserving liquor, and 
wash well in cold water. Take half a bottle of tomato catsup. 
Pour it into a well-greased bag. Add the peas, and cook for 
fifteen minutes in a hot oven (350° Fahr.). Meanwhile take 
another greased bag. Put into it a slice of fat bacon, a 
few chicken livers, and the chops. Fold, and cook all together 
for twenty minutes. Dish up the chops on a very hot dish. 
Arrange the chicken livers on top of the chops; put the 
peas and tomato round as a border, and send to table at once. 
Note. — The bacon, which is only used as a flavoring agent, 
must not be sent to table. 

Chops a rindienne. 

For those who like hot things the following may be recom- 
mended : — Take a teaspoonful of salted flour, mix with it thor- 
oughly a heaped large teaspoonful of good curry powder — 
two if liked. Grease a bag very thoroughly. Have ready 
from four to six chops trimmed as directed before. Dust 
these with the flour. Put them into the bag, and add to them 
a heaped dessertspoonful of finely-chopped spring onions and 
half a pint of chicken or other well-flavored stock. Fold and 
cook gently for three-quarters of an hour (300° Fahr.). Dish 
up on hot dish. Stir the sauce round well and serve. If liked, 
the flour and curry powder can be mixed with the cold stock 
instead of being dusted on to the chops. Water will do when 
stock is not to hand, but in this case add a little more salt. 

Chops for the Nursery. 
Every mother is aware of the nourishing properties of 
barley, but not every child can be got to take the barley in the 
shape of porridge. The appended recipe solves the difficulty 
by giving the barley at dinner instead of at breakfast time. 
Soak four ounces of thoroughly washed pearl barley for twenty- 
four hours. Have ready a well-greased bag, six small peeled 
whole onions (select those about the size of a small Tangerine) 
and the requisite number of chops. Free the chops from all 
but the smallest quantity of fat, dust them with salt, place 
them in the bag. Add to them the onions and the barley, salt 
to taste, and if any of the water in which the latter was 
soaked remains, add this also. If not, add half a pint of 
chicken stock prepared as before indicated. Fold and clip the 
bag. Place on grid, and cook gently in an only moderately 
hot oven for an hour and a half (300° Fahr.). Empty out 
on to a dish and serve. Veal can also be cooked in this way, 



194 STANDARD COOKERY. 

and for invalids the dish can be most highly recommended, 
as it contains nothing to upset even the most delicate diges- 
tion. 

Economical Stew, 
Grease the bag well. Wash one and a half pounds of fresh 
pieces of mutton well. Dust them thickly with salted barley 
flour and slightly with pepper. Peel and slice one pound of 
onions and two pounds of potatoes thinly. Wash them well. 
Put them wet into the bag with the meat in layers. Then add 
about half a pint of water. Put the bag on the grid. Cook 
slowly for two hours (275° Fahr.). Dish up on a hot dish, 
and stir round well. 

Chicken, Game, Etc., on Spatchcock. 
Split the chicken down the middle. Well open. Pass two 
skewers longways to prevent the chicken from curling. Take 
and break one very fresh e.gg. Beat well. Add to it a little 
salt and black pepper, one ounce of melted butter, one tea- 
spoonful of Worcester or other sauce, and one teaspoonful of 
mixed mustard. Mix together. With a brush glaze the whole 
chicken with the mixture. Then place the breadcrumbs all 
round. Butter the bag well all over the inside. Place chicken 
in it. Seal up, and place on the grid. Be very careful not to 
tear the bag with the skewers. Allozv thirty-five to forty min- 
utes in a hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Salmi de Caneton. 

Take a cold roast duck and joint it neatly. Place the car- 
case, giblets, bones, etc., in a clean, enameled iron stewpan ; 
add to them a couple of sage leaves or a little powdered sage, 
a large onion stuck with a clove, a pinch of powdered sweet 
herbs, and half a pint of stock. Bring to the boil, skim care- 
fully, and then draw the pan to the side of the fire and sim- 
mer very slowly until the goodness is fairly extracted. Then 
strain through a hair sieve into a clean saucepan, place on the 
fire, and reduce about one-third. Add salt and pepper to taste, 
the peel from half a dozen French olives, and half a glass of 
port. 

Meanwhile grease a bag thickly, place in it the joints of the 
duck, and cook for ten minutes in 350° Fahr. 

Remove the bag from the oven and pour the gravy in. 
Close the bag and make it very hot for ten minutes. 

Then dish up on a hot salmi dish and serve, garnished with 
fried croutons and accompanied by chipped or stravv- potatoes. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 195 

Blackcock, ptarmigan, or, indeed, any kind of game may also 
be rechauffed after this recipe. 

COLD MEAT COOKERY. 

Cannelon a la Royale. 

Take a pound of cold roast veal, free it from skin and fat, 
etc., and pass it through a meat chopper twice. Add to it 
six ounces of cooked ham, fat and lean together, also minced. 
Mix; then add pepper and salt to taste, a teaspoonful of 
minced parsley, a teaspoon half full of minced shallot, a little 
grated lemon peel, and a dust of nutmeg. Mix again. Add 
the well-beaten yolks and whites of two eggs; shape into a 
roll, wrap up in a piece of clean well-greased Soyer paper, 
place in bag, and cook for twenty-five minutes in 300° Fahr, 
Take out of bag very carefully, unroll, dish upon a hot dish, 
and serve with Portugaise sauce. 

For the sauce, rub a pound of ripe tomatoes through a hair 
sieve. Place the pulp thus obtained in a clean enameled iron 
saucepan. Add to it pepper and salt to taste, a teaspoonful 
of sifted sugar, a dessertspoonful of vinegar, a teaspoonful of 
onion juice or else as much chopped garlic as will go on the 
point of a very small knife. Make very hot and allow it to re- 
duce — i.e., boil away a little — then use. Half a wineglassful 
of cooking port is an immense improvement to the above sauce ; 
so, too, is a bit of butter about the size of a walnut. 

Roulade de Bceuf a la Napolitaine. 
Take a pound of cold roast beef, free it from skin and fat, 
etc., and pass it through the meat chopper. Add to it six 
ounces of finely-minced (cooked) ham or bacon, fat and lean 
together. Season highly with pepper and salt. Add a tea- 
spoonful of finely-minced olives, a few drops of tabasco, a tea- 
spoonful of minced parsley, a little grated lemon peel and a 
dust of nutmeg. Mix all together; then add to it four ounces 
of previously cooked macaroni which has been cut into one 
inch lengths and tossed in a little butter. Mix again. Add 
the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and finally the whites 
whipped to a stiff froth. Mix thoroughly; roll up in a piece 
of clean well-greased paper, place in the bag, fold and clip, 
put on the grid, and hake in a moderate oven (300° Fahr.) 
for twenty-Uve minutes. Serve with the same sauce as in the 
foregoing recipe. 



196 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Mouton Grille a I'lndienne. 

Underdone mutton, for which no other use can be found, 
may be turned into a very nice grill as follows : — Cut a suffi- 
cient number of slices from a leg of mutton, and cut into 
rounds or squares. Melt a piece of butter about the size of a 
large walnut on a plate in the oven. Add to it a teaspoonful 
of Harvey's sauce, and salt to taste. Mix thoroughly, and 
leave the slices of mutton in the mixture for at least an hour 
before they are required. Have ready a number of fried 
croutons, allowing one to each piece of mutton ; place the lat- 
ter on these, put them in a well-greased paper bag. Put bag 
on grid, cook for eight minutes and serve at once, accompanied 
by Portugaise sauce — handed separately — and mashed po- 
tatoes. Instructions for Portugaise sauce is given in the first 
recipe. 

Beef and veal, but more especially the former, are also ex- 
cellent, treated after the foregoing fashion. Horse-radish 
sauce should be served with these in place of sauce Portu- 
gaise. 

Cold Fish. 
Take off all flesh from the fish bones. Mash up a few po- 
tatoes. Season to taste. Grease paper bag. Place mashed 
potatoes at the bottom, flat. Put one teaspoonful of flour on 
the top of the fish, three tablespoonfuls of milk, salt and pepper, 
a little chopped parsley (if desired), anchovy or other sauce. 
Mix together. Place the mixture on top of the potato and put 
in the bag. Seal up, and place on the grid. Allow fifteen min- 
utes in a hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Cold Meat or Poultry, 
can be done the same way, but omit milk, and substitute the 
same quantity of water or stock, and add an onion or shallot 
(not cut up). 



STANDARD COOKERY. 197 



EGGS. 

Various Dishes Composed of Eggs. 

Dishes composed of eggs bulk very largely in English menus 
for breakfast and luncheons, but there is no reason why they 
should not figure on dinner menus, especially during the season 
of Lent, when the choice of viands is somewhat limited. 

Many of the dishes given in this section may, quite ad- 
vantageously, be served as entrees, and will be found to be 
agreeable variants to the usual Lenten fish diet. 

Just a word as to the making of omelettes. In households 
where those are esteemed and not merely partaken of at long 
intervals, it will repay the cook to keep one pan especially for 
omelettes, thus ensuring perfect cleanliness — an absolutely es- 
sential condition of things where omelettes are concerned. 

OMELETTES. 
French Omelette. 

Break two eggs into a bowl, season with salt, pepper, minced 
parsley, and chives, etc., and beat together for about one 
minute. Melt one ounce of butter in an omelette pan and 
when this smokes pour in the eggs, and do not touch them for 
a few seconds, till the liquid has set a little at the bottom of 
the pan ; tilt the pan a trifle to one side, and if there is a small 
puff of steam, lift the edge up carefully with a knife, to allow 
as much liquid as possible to run underneath; repeat this till 
there is no more egg liquid left, and the top is just set; insert 
a knife under the omelette, fold it over, and slip it at once on 
to a hot dish, and serve immediately. It can be varied to any 
extent by, just before folding it over, dropping in any kind of 
vegetable mixture, such as mushrooms, chopped up and pre- 
viously lightly fried in a little butter. 

This is a French omelette, which should be moist and 
flaky. For an omelette soufile, beat the whites of the eggs sep- 
arately to a stiff froth, and add them last of all before cook- 
ing. 



198 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Omelette Jambon. 

To prepare this omelette separate the whites and yolk of as 
many eggs as are needed and add to each half its volume of 
milk thickened with rice flour or corn starch. Flavor with 
pepper and salt and, if liked, a few drops of Worcestershire 
sauce. 

Have ready a mixture composed of equal parts of chopped 
boiled ham or roast pork, minced cooked green peas, chopped 
onion or shallot, sliced tomatoes, and sliced boiled mushrooms. 
Season with pepper and salt to taste. 

Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately and thor- 
oughly, then mix them quickly with the other ingredients, and 
place the whole in a deep dish. Bake in a hot oven until the 
outside is brov/ned, and serve as hot as possible. Gravy sauce 
should accompany this dish if liked. 

Breadcrumbs Omelette. 

Whip the yolks of six eggs with a cupful of cream, a table- 
spoonful of cornflour, and a cupful of breadcrumbs. Now stir 
in the beaten whites of the eggs, add a little minced onion, 
parsley, pepper and salt, and cook in a butter pan until the 
omelette is well browned. 

It should be then be simply folded and served with a puree 
of asparagus tips, spinach, or any other vegetable that is pre- 
ferred. 

Another method is to make the omelettes in the usual way 
without breadcrumbs, and before folding place in the center 
some bread cut into small dice and fried in butter. 

Cheese Omelette. 
Add a heaped-up tablespoonful of grated cheese to the or- 
dinary omelette mixture, sprinkling some over it just before 
serving. 

French Bean Omelette. 

Heat some cooked French beans in butter, and place them 
between a plain omelette. 

Green Pea Omelette. 
Place between an omelette a few green peas, made very hot 
and tossed in butter, salt and pepper. 

Potato Omelette, 

To four eggs add two tablespoonfuls of very smoothly 
mashed potato; add a tablespoonful of cream, a small piece of 



STANDARD COOKERY. 199 

butter, pepper and salt, whip all together, and then fry as be- 
fore. 

Spanish Omelette. 

Fry in olive oil or butter a sliced lamb's kidney, a tablespoon- 
ful of chopped ham, four fresh mushrooms finely minced, and 
one green chili, an onion, some parsley and a bay leaf, all 
chopped as finely as possible. Now add three skinned and 
sliced tomatoes and a cupful of clear stock; simmer this gently 
for half an hour, when it will be ready. 

Now whip separately the whites and yolks of six eggs and 
stir them together with half a tablespoonful of flour previously 
mixed with the same quantity of milk and a little pepper and 
salt. Pour into a buttered pan and cook lightly. Before fold- 
ing the omelette pour upon it the sauce described above. 

Tomato Omelette. 

Make an ordinary omelette, and before serving pour this 
mixture into it : — Take two or three tomatoes and cut them 
into pieces; slice an onion very thin, melt a tablespoonful of 
butter into a saucepan and place the onion in it. Cook them, 
but do not allow to color; add pepper, salt, and the pieces of 
tomato. Stir all together for ten minutes, take out the mix- 
ture, pass it through a sieve, and return to the pan; thoroughly 
reheat, and serve. 

Poached Eggs. 

Fry an onion with a little parsley, thyme, and a bay leaf — 
and half a clove of garlic if liked — in one ounce of butter. 
Add half a pint of clear stock and the same quantity of red 
wine or cider, and cook gently until the sauce is well blended. 
Now poach six eggs in vinegar and water, and after draining 
carefully place them upon pieces of toast which have been 
plunged for a moment into hot water. Strain the sauce, add 
pepper and salt to taste, and pour it around the eggs. A bor- 
der of parsley adds to the appearance of this dish. 

Eggs Poached in Rice Cases. 
Boil some rice in water until it is thoroughly cooked, then 
drain it and season with salt, pepper and a little grated nut- 
meg. Spread the rice evenly on a flat dish so that it is about 
half an inch thick, and when it is cold cut it out into as many 
rounds as are required with a medium-sized cutter ; press the 
top of each with the bowl of a dessertspoon so as to make 
slightly hollow. Brush the rice over with beaten egg, then 
cover it with dry breadcrumbs, and fry the rounds quickly in 



200 STANDARD COOKERY. 

a bath of boiling fat until lightly browned. Poach one egg 
for each round of rice, poaching in water to which has been 
added a few drops of lemon juice, and when ready trim the 
eggs neatly and dish them up on the rounds of fried rice, and, 
if practicable, surround them with hot tomato sauce. 

Poached Eggs with Curried Onions. 

Blanch and slice one onion, and fry in fat until it is a 
golden color, mix with it a little good curry sauce. Poach 
two or more eggs carefully, and put them on neat squares or 
rounds of buttered toast. Pour the curried onions round, and 
serve. 

Poached Eggs and Calves' Liver. 

Take one pound of cooked calves' liver, mince thoroughly 
with sufficient parsley, pepper and salt, mix with just enough 
strong stock to well moisten the v/hole and pass it through a 
sieve. Now arrange the puree on a very hot dish, place six 
poached eggs upon it, and pour around a little thick stock 
flavored with tarragon vinegar and capers. 

Poached Eggs a la Reine. 
Poach as many fresh eggs as are required in water, to which 
is added a spoonful of lemon juice. Drain them on a cloth, 
and dish up on rounds of fried bread. Pour some thick brown 
curry sauce over the eggs, scatter a little finely-chopped parsley 
over each, and serve at once. 

Poached Eggs. 

In an earthenware cooking vessel melt a tablespoonful of 
butter with one small onion minced very fine, and a sprinkling 
of pepper and salt. Parsley or other herbs may be substituted 
for the onion. One by one drop six eggs into the melted but- 
ter and as soon as they are browned a little on the under 
side turn them carefully and brown on the other side. 

The eggs should be served at once in the vessel in which 
they have been cooked. 

Buttered Eggs. 
Melt about two ounces of butter in a saucepan, break two 
eggs into the butter, season with salt and pepper, and stir till 
the eggs thicken. Serve on toast. This dish is much im- 
proved by having a few cooked peas warmed in the egg, or 
pieces of cooked asparagus or French beans. 

Buttered Eggs and Mushrooms. 
Make some buttered eggs in the above manner, but before 










o -r 



be 

c 

o 

C/3 



STANDARD COOKERY. 201 

cooking them add some cooked minced mushrooms, peeled and 
sprinkled with salt and pepper. Serve on rounds of buttered 
toast. 

Fricassee of Eggs. 
Take three hard-boiled eggs, cut them in half and remove 
the yolks, and pound these together with a tiny taste of shallot, 
chopped parsley, seasoning and butter. Fill the whites with 
the mixture and keep them hot. Make some nice white sauce, 
pour over the eggs, and serve. 

Curried Eggs. 
Boil two eggs hard, and cut in fairly thick slices. Place 
each one on a crouton of fried bread, and pour a nice curry 
sauce over; or cut the eggs into quarters, and surround with a 
border of rice, and pour a good curry sauce over the eggs. 

Eggs a la Lucerne. 
Fry one small sliced onion and put it through a sieve, mix 
with it one dessertspoonful of flour which has been mixed 
smooth in rather less than half a pint of milk; season with 
pepper and salt. Stir over a slow fire for about seven minutes. 
Beat well two fresh eggs, stir these into the milk and onion, 
have ready some hot buttered toast, and after stirring the eggs 
for five minutes pour over the toast, and send at once to table. 

Savory Eggs. 
Parboil, slice and fry one large onion nearly brown, add 
half a pint of milk and three hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. 
Stir over a slow fire for two or three minutes. Beat well the 
yolks of two eggs with a teaspoonful of parsley (dried and 
chopped), one ounce of grated cheese, a little pepper and salt. 
Add and stir this over a slow fire for seven or eight minutes. 
Give one squeeze of lemon juice, and serve very hot. 

Savory Eggs. 

Boil three eggs until they are hard, then take off their shells 
and leave them until they are cold; then cut them in half and 
remove the yolks and pound these till quite smooth, mixing 
with them a little chopped parsley, tomato puree, salt and pep- 
per. Slice a small piece off the tops of the whites, so that 
they will stand upright, and fill them with the mixture, putting 
a sprig of parsley into the center of each, and serve them on a 
bed of small salad. 

Egg Cutlets. 

Boil two or three eggs quite hard, shell, and cut into rather 



202 STANDARD COOKERY. 

thick slices. Dip each slice into beaten egg, seasoned with 
salt and pepper and minced parsley. Fry a light brown, and 
take them out of the pan the minute they are done. Drain, 
and arrange round a pyramid of savory rice, and pour tomato 
sauce round. 

Baked Eggs. 
Slice six hard-boiled eggs, place a layer of them in a well- 
buttered baking-dish, and sprinkle thinly with grated cheese. 
Then place another layer of egg, and so on, until all are used. 
Pour half a pint of strong white stock over the eggs and 
cover thickly with a mixture of breadcrumbs and grated 
cheese. Bake in a quick oven for ten minutes and serve in 
the same dish. 

Baked Eggs. (Another Method.) 
Place six sliced hard-boiled eggs in a buttered dish and 
pour over them a sauce made by stirring over a fire the 
following ingredients: — A tablespoonful of grated ham, an 
ounce of grated cheese, the same quantity of butter, half a 
cupful of stewed tomatoes, a cupful of white stock flavored 
with the juice of a lemon and a little nutmeg, parsley, pepper, 
and salt. This should be cooked twenty minutes and strained 
before adding to the eggs. Cover the whole with a fairly thick 
layer of bread crumbs and grated cheese, and bake in a quick 
oven. 

Baked Eggs. (Another Method.) 
Cover the bottom of a well-buttered dish with some thin 
slices of Gruyere cheese, and break over it eight new-laid eggs, 
taking care not to break the yolks. Season with a little pep- 
per, salt, and nutmeg. Now pour a gill of good thick cream 
over the eggs and sprinkle with about two ounces of grated 
Gruyere cheese. Set the dish in an oven and bake for about 
a quarter of an hour. If the surface is not sufficiently browned 
a hot salamander can be passed over it. 

Strips of thin dry toast should be passed round with this 
dish. 

Baked Eggs in Cases. 

Take some china or paper ramakin cases, butter them well 
inside, chop very finely a little parsley and a small piece of 
onion. Mix this with some fine breadcrumbs. Sprinkle some 
of this mixture in the cases. Put the cases on a hot baking- 
sheet, break an egg on each, and cover with the rest of the 



STANDARD COOKERY. 203 

mixture; put into a hot oven, and when set, but not hard, dish 
at once. 

Baked Eggs and Tomatoes. 

Fry two teaspoonfuls of minced onion in a little clarified drip- 
ping until it is a pale golden color ; then add the tomatoes 
which have been previously scalded and skinned and cut into 
small pieces, season with cayenne, salt and pepper, and let the 
contents of the pan simmer gently for twenty minutes. Put 
the breadcrumbs into a bowl, and when the tomatoes are ready 
turn out on to the crumbs and beat all together. Whisk the 
eggs thoroughly (whites and yolks together), with a patent 
egg-beater, and mix them with the tomatoes; scatter some 
browned crumbs over the top and bake in a quick oven for 
about ten minutes. 

Creamed Eggs. 
Butter some little fireproof china saucepans, and break neatly 
into each a fresh egg. Pour over each a spoonful of cream, 
season with salt and white pepper. Put into the oven until 
set, and serve at once. 

Egg Sandwiches. 
For these, pound two or three hard-boiled eggs, a small 
piece of butter and two teaspoonfuls of grated cheese, and of 
tomato puree, until a smooth paste is formed. Melt a lump 
of butter in a saucepan, add the mixture and stir until it is 
quite hot. Then spread between fingers of hot buttered toast. 
Garnish the top of each sandwich with the whites of the eggs 
and serve very hot. 

Eggs Au Gratin. 
Boil three or four eggs quite hard. When cool cut into 
rather thick slices. Lay in a well-buttered fireproof dish. 
Sprinkle with grated cheese, fine breadcrumbs, salt and pep- 
per. Pour over some white sauce. Sprinkle with brown 
crumbs, make thoroughly hot and brown with a salamander. 

Eggs and Cheese. 
Cover the bottom of a large plate with equal parts of bread- 
crumbs, grated cheese and butter, and mix with the yolks of 
two eggs and any spices that are liked. Spread this thickly 
over the bottom of the plate and place in an oven until brown. 
Take out and at once break into the plate as many eggs as 
will cover it. Sprinkle these thickly with grated cheese and 
place in a quick oven until the eggs are set. If the cheese is 



204 STANDARD COOKERY. 

not sufficiently browned the use of a salamander will put this 
right. 

Stewed Eggs and Cheese. 
Allow one egg for each person and take half the weight in 
butter and one-third of the weight in grated cheese. Thor- 
oughly beat the eggs and then mix well with the cheese and 
butter, flavoring with pepper and salt. Cook in an earthen- 
ware pot or an enameled saucepan until the mixture is quite 
thick, and pour it into a deep dish before serving. A little 
chopped parsley may be added to this dish. 

Broiled Eggs. 

Place the flesh of two tomatoes, without the skins and seeds, 
in a frying-pan with some boiling oil. Add a little salt and 
some minced fresh pimento, with herbs, and mix thoroughly. 
Break over this two eggs and mix the whole briskly over a fire 
until the eggs are set. 

Eggs and Rice Cutlets with Macaroni. 
Grate the whites of four hard-boiled eggs and pound them 
in a mortar with the yolks of the eggs and half an ounce of 
butter; add a heaped tablespoonful of boiled rice, moisten the 
paste with a little cream, and season it with salt and black 
pepper. Divide the mixture and shape it on a floured board 
into the form of cutlets. Dip them into some beaten egg, and 
cover them thickly with fine breadcrumbs; leave them for a 
quarter of an hour, and then fry the cutlets in plenty of boil- 
ing fat. Boil some straight pipe macaroni until it is tender, 
and cut it up into small pieces about half an inch in length ; 
then reheat it in a small quantity of parsley sauce. Arrange 
the macaroni in a hot dish, and put the cutlets round it. 

Eggs Sur La Plat. 
Melt two ounces of butter in an omelette-pan; the moment 
the butter is melted, slip in 'three eggs carefully, avoiding 
breaking the yolks. Have three pieces of crisp toast on a 
hot dish, cover each piece lightly with anchovy paste; directly 
the eggs are set, place them carefully on the toast, one egg 
on each piece, and pour the hot butter from the pan over 
them; dust with a shake of cayenne, and sprinkle a little finely- 
chopped parsley over the center of each egg. 

Egg Kromeskies. 
Poach as many eggs as are required in water to which a 
small quantity of vinegar has been added; cook them until 



STANDARD COOKERY. 205 

they are well set, and then put them into cold water. When 
cold drain the eggs on a clean cloth; sprinkle some salt and 
pepper over them ; dip them into batter, and fry quickly in 
plenty of boiling fat, so that the batter has only time to be- 
come a pale golden brown. 

Eggs a la Reine. 
Remove the shells from four hard-boiled eggs, cut them in 
half lengthways, and remove the yolks. Put a quarter of a 
pound of rice cooked in stock into a bowl, season it with salt 
and pepper and a dust of curry powder, and add the yolks 
of the eggs after breaking them up with a fork, and beat the 
mixture for a few minutes, moisten it slightly with cream 
or milk, and then fill the whites of the eggs with it; dip them 
into some beaten egg, and then cover them thickly with fine 
crumbs, and put them aside for a quarter of an hour. Fry 
the stuffed eggs in plenty of boiling fat, and serve them on 
thick slices of tomato which have been cooked in clarified 
dripping, and garnish with parsley. 

Stuffed Eggs a la Diable. 

Hard boil the eggs, shell, place for a few minutes in cold 
water. Cut a little piece from the pointed end and halve 
each egg with a sharp knife. Remove the yolk; pound this 
with butter, salt and a seasoning of curry powder until a soft 
smooth paste is formed. Refill the eggs with this mixture 
and serve each on a little round of lightly fried bread. Scat- 
ter a little coralline pepper on each egg, and garnish with 
parsley or cress. This may be served cold. If a hot dish 
is needed, prepare the eggs as before, place in a fireproof 
entree dish, pour a curry sauce or white sauce over, and make 
quite hot. 

Birds' Nests. 

Take the required number of hard-boiled eggs, cover them 
with smoothly-mashed potato, in which half a teaspoonful of 
curry powder has been mixed; roll in egg and breadcrumbs, 
and fry a golden brown. Cut in half and serve each half on a 
round of fried toast. 

Egg and Sausage Salad 
Hard boil three eggs and cut them into slices, and cut some 
Bologna sausage into as many slices as you have pieces of egg. 
Place a slice of egg on each piece of sausage, and arrange 
them on some finely-shredded lettuce which has been dressed 
with oil and vinegar, and seasoned with salt and pepper. 



2o6 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Eggs in Ramakin Cases. 

Remove the pointed end from four hard-boiled eggs and cut 
a slice from the other end so that the eggs may stand evenly. 
Take out the yolks by making a small hole at the pointed end, 
either with an apple-corer or a skewer, but be careful not to 
break the white of the eggs. Put the yolks into a bowl and 
break them up with butter, using a small wooden spoon for 
the purpose, then add one tablespoonful of potted meat, one 
teaspoonful of parsley, one dessertspoonful of tomato catsup, 
and a little salt, pepper and curry powder, and rub the mixture 
through a pointed metal gravy strainer with a teaspoon on to 
a soup plate. Take up a small quantity at a time in the spoon 
and with the aid of a finely-pointed skewer fill the whites of the 
eggs with the prepared yolks letting the filling stand well 
above the white. Place each egg as it is filled in a china ram- 
akin case, and when all are ready decorate them with small 
heart-shaped pieces of cucumber, which should be brushed 
over on one side with warm butter to make them adhere, or, 
if preferred, the eggs may be served plain. 

Egg and Cauliflower Croustades. 

Cut some rounds from slices of bread (about half an inch 
thick) with a large cutter, and with a small cutter remove a 
little piece from the middle of each ; dip the pieces of bread 
quickly into milk, and then into beaten egg, cover them with 
fine crumbs and fry them in boiling fat. Prepare some but- 
tered eggs in the usual way, and while the mixture is soft 
and creamy add some small pieces of cooked cauliflower to it ; 
season with salt and pepper, dust of curry powder, and if 
liked, a teaspoonful of grated cheese and stir until the egg 
begins to set, then pile up the mixture on the croustades (or 
bread cases), scatter a few browned breadcrumbs over the 
top, and serve as quickly as possible. 

Eggs in Batter. 
Take four hard-boiled eggs, peel carefully and dip them in 
batter. Fry until brown, then dip and fry again, and continue 
the process till the eggs are twice their usual size. They may 
then be placed upon a puree of spinach or other green veg- 
etable, or they may be served with tomato sauce. 

Eggs and Chestnuts. 
Place in a stevt'pan two sliced sausages, one large sliced 
boiled carrot, a dozen roast chestnuts — without their shells — 
a spoonful of butter, and a small teacupful of any white stock. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 207 

Cook gently for twenty minutes, stirring all the while, and 
then add a spoonful of sherry with pepper and salt to taste. 
Pour this mixture over ten fried eggs on a dish. 

Fried Eggs. 

Fry four new-laid eggs in olive oil, and after removing 
them to a hot dish, mix with the oil in the cooking-pan six 
mushrooms, half a green chili finely minced, and half a cup- 
ful of clear stock. Cook carefully till the mushrooms are done 
and pour it around the eggs before serving. 

Piedmontese Eggs. 
Remove the bones and skin from foui: anchovies, mince 
finely, and warm them until thoroughly dissolved in half a 
pint of stock ; but do not allow the stock to become too hot. 
Whip the yolks of six eggs and stir in the beaten whites of 
two with parsley, pepper, and salt. Add to the stock and stir 
the mixture over the fire until it is quite smooth, and then 
pour it into a well-buttered dish previously lined with slices 
of toast. Cover the surface rather thickly with grated cheese, 
and bake for ten minutes in a quick oven, 

Carmelite Eggs. 

Make a vegetable puree by boiling spinach, asparagus tips — 
or any other vegetable — with herbs and seasoning, and mix- 
ing it with a cupful of cream previous to pressing through a 
sieve. Pour the puree into a well-buttered baking dish, smooth 
the surface and break over it very carefully from four to six 
new-laid eggs. Bake in a moderate oven until the eggs are 
set. 

Bercy Eggs. 

Put half of the butter to be used in a dish; let it melt, break 
the eggs, taking care not to burst the yolks ; baste the latter 
with the rest of the butter, and season. Cook until the whites 
are quite done and the yolks are glossy. Garnish with a small, 
grilled sausage, placed between the yolks, and surround with 
a thread of tomato sauce. 

Eggs with Brovsm Butter. 

may be prepared by either of these methods : — 

(i) Cook the eggs in a dish as above and then cover them 
with one-quarter ounce of brown butter and a few drops of 
vinegar, which should be added after the butter. 

(2) Put one-half ounce of butter into a small omelette- 
pan, and cook until almost black. Break the eggs into it, 



2o8 STANDARD COOKERY. 

season, cook, tilt them gently on to a dish, and besprinkle 
with a few drops of vinegar, with which the omelette-pan has 
been rinsed. 

Deviled Eggs. 
Cook the eggs in the omelette-pan ; turn them with care, 
after the manner of pancakes. Slide them gently into a dish, 
and besprinkle them with brown butter and a few drops of 
vinegar with which the omelette-pan has been rinsed. 

Eggs a la Florence. 

Garnish the bottom of dish with spinach leaves stewed in 
butter; sprinkle thereon two pinches of grated cheese; break 
the eggs upon this garnish, and cover them with two table- 
spoonfuls of Mornay sauce. Place in a fierce oven, so that 
the cooking and glazing of the eggs may be effected simul- 
taneously. 

Eggs Au Gratin. 

Put a tablespoonful of very hot Mornay sauce into a dish. 
Break the eggs into it, cover with Mornay sauce, sprinkle 
with grated cheese mixed with fine raspings, and cook in a 
fierce oven. 

Jockey Club Eggs. 

Cook the eggs in an omelette-pan ; tilt them gently on to a 
dish, and trim them with a round fancy-cutter. Place each 
egg upon a round, thin piece of toast, and then cover with foie- 
gras puree. Arrange in the form of a crown, on a dish, and 
pour into the middle a garnish of calves' kidneys cut into dice 
and sauted, and truffles similarly cut. 

Mirabeau Eggs. 

For ordinary butter substitute anchovy butter. Break the 
eggs and cook them. Surround each yolk with anchovy fillets, 
and garnish each with a spray of parboiled tarragon leaves. 
Place a large olive stuffed with tarragon butter on either side 
the yolks. 

Pacha Eggs. 

Garnish a dish with a large tablespoonful of minced onions 
cooked in butter and unbrowned. Break the eggs over the 
garnish, sprinkle with a small tablespoonful of dry, grated 
Parmesan cheese, and cook in a fierce oven so that sHght 
gratin may form as soon as the eggs are done. 

Parmentier Eggs. 
Bake some potatoes in the oven. Open them, from above, 



STANDARD COOKERY. 209 

with an oval fancy cutter; remove the pulp from the in- 
side, rub it through a sieve, and make a smooth puree of it. 
Half-fill the potato-shells with this puree, break an egg into 
each, besprinkle with cream, and cook in the oven. Replace 
the part of the baked shell removed in the first instance, and 
serve on a napkin. 

Eggs a la Portugaise. 

Put a tablespoonful of tomato fondue into a dish. Break 
the eggs upon this, season, and cook. Between the eggs and 
at each end of the dish put a little heap of tomato fondue, 
and on each heap drop a pinch of chopped parsley. 

Eggs a la Reine. 

Cook the eggs in an omelette-pan, and trim with a round 
fancy cutter. Put each egg upon a small disc of Duchesse 
potatoes, of the same size as the egg, previously browned in 
the oven. Arrange the eggs in a circle round the dish; in the 
middle put a chicken mincemeat, and surround with a border of 
Supreme sauce. 

Poached Eggs. 

Use perfectly fresh eggs, for it is quite impossible to ob- 
tain an even poaching without. 

Have ready a saucepan containing boiling salted water (one- 
third of an ounce of salt per quart of water), slightly acidu- 
lated with vinegar. Break the eggs over that part of the 
water which is actually boiling. 

Do not put more than six eggs at a time into the same sauce- 
pan, then the poaching will be effected more equally. 

As soon as the eggs are in the water, let the latter simmer. 
The egg is poached when the white has enveloped the yolk, 
and when it may be touched without breaking. The usual 
time allowed for poaching is three minutes. 

Withdraw the eggs by means of a slice; dip them into cold 
water, trim their whites, and put them back into moderately 
warm water until ready to serve. 

The Cooking, of Soft-Boiled Eggs. 

These ought to be very fresh, as in the case of poached 
eggs. Keep the water boiling; plunge the eggs therein as di- 
rected; leave them to cook for six minutes from the time the 
water has regained the boiling-point; drain, steep for a mo- 
ment in a bowl of cold water, and shell the eggs carefully. 
Keep them in a moderately-salted hot water until ready to 
serve. 



210 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Poached Eggs Argenteuil. 
Garnish the bottom of some tartlet crusts with cooked as- 
paragus cut into pieces, and six green asparagus-heads, about 
one and one-half inches in length, arranged starwise. Place 
an egg, coated with cream sauce mixed with half its volume 
of asparagus puree, upon each tartlet. 

Poached Eggs a I'Aurore. 
Coat the eggs with Aurora sauce, and dish them on rounds 
of toast. 

Poached Eggs en Berceau. 
Bake some potatoes in the oven. Cut each in half, 
lengthwise, with the point of a small knife, and remove the 
pulp. Coat the interiors with a chicken mincemeat mixed with 
cream, and place an egg coated with Aurora sauce in each. 

Poached Eggs a la Bohemienne. 

Garnish the bottom of some tartlet crusts with a salpicon of 
foie-gras and truffles cohered with a few tablespoonfuls of the 
following sauce: — For six eggs, dissolve one teaspoonful of 
whitemeat glaze ; add thereto half a teaspoonful of truffle es- 
sence, and finish with a lump of butter about the size of a 
pigeon's egg. Take enough of this sauce to effect the co- 
hering of the salpicon ; coat the eggs with Hungarian sauce, 
and place one upon each garnished tartlet. 

Poached Eggs Boiel-Dieu. 

Garnish the tartlets with a white chicken-meat, foie-gras, 
and truffle salpicon cohered with poultry veloute. Coat the 
eggs with a reduced and thickened poultry gravy. 

Poached Eggs a la Bruxelloise. 

Garnish some tartlet crusts with braised endives, thickened 
with cream. Place an egg, coated with cream sauce, upon 
each; sprinkle with bread raspings and set to glaze in a fierce 
oven. 

Poached Eggs a la Clamart. 
Garnish some tartlet crusts with green peas, cooked and 
mixed with finely-shredded lettuce which should have cooked 
with them. Place an egg, coated with cream sauce which has 
been finished with fresh pea puree upon each. 

Poached Eggs Colbert. 
Garnish some tartlet crusts with a macedoine of vegetable. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 211 

Place a plainly-poached egg upon each, and send Colbert but- 
ter, separately, to the table with the tartlets. 

Poached Eggs a la Comtesse. 
Garnish some tartlet crusts with white asparagus puree. 
Place an egg coated with sauce upon each, and sprinkle with 
chopped truffles. 

Poached Eggs Grand Due. 

Place the eggs on fried rusks, with a nice slice of truffle on 
each; arrange them in a circle round the dish, coat with 
Mornay sauce, and set to glaze in a fierce oven. On with- 
drawing the dish from the oven, put in the center a garnish 
composed of asparagus heads and a small faggot of the latter, 
very green and cooked. 

Poached Eggs Maintenon. 

Garnish some tartl&t crusts with a Soubise d la Bechamel, 
slightly thickened by reduction. Coat the eggs with Mornay 
sauce, besprinkle with grated cheese, and place them in the 
crusts. 

Set the glaze in a fierce oven, and, on withdrawing the dish 
from the oven, surround the crusts with brown sauce. 

Poached Eggs Massena. 

Heat six medium-sized artichoke bottoms. Slightly hollow 
them, if necessary, and garnish each with a tablespoonful of 
Bearnaise sauce. Place an egg, coated with Portugaise sauce, 
upon each artichoke bottom ; then place a slice of poached 
marrow and ox-tongue upon each egg, and a little chopped 
parsley upon each slice of marrow. 

Poached Eggs Mornay. 

Coat the eggs with Mornay sauce, and besprinkle with grated 
Parmesan cheese mixed with fine raspings. With a slice, 
carefully transfer the eggs to pieces of toast fried in butter. 
Arrange in a circle on a dish, sprinkle each egg with a few 
drops of melted butter, and set to glaze quickly in a fierce oven. 

Poached Eggs d'Orsay. 

Place the eggs upon the toast fried in butter. Arrange them 
in a circle on a dish, and coat them with Colbert sauce. 

Poached Eggs Rossini. 
Garnish some tartlet crusts, each with a slice of foie-gras 
seasoned, sprinkled with flour, and fried in butter. Place an 
egg, coated with thickened veal gravy with Madeira, on each 



212 STANDARD COOKERY. 

tartlet, and complete by means of a large slice of very black 
truffle or ox tongue on each egg. 

Poached Eggs Sevigne. 
Prepare some thin rusks; fry them in clarified butter, and 
stuff them with a mince of braised lettuce. Place an egg on 
each stuffed rusk; coat with veloute mixed with brown sauce; 
arrange in a circle on a dish, and complete by means of a 
ring of very black truffle and foie-gras on each egg. 

Poached Eggs Victoria. 
Garnish some tartlet crusts with a salpicon made from three 
ounces of spiny-lobster meat and one ounce of truffles, mixed 
with three tablespoonfuls of white sauce. Place an egg, coated 
with white sauce, on each tartlet. Dish, and set to glaze in a 
fierce oven. 

Hard-B oiled Eggs Chimay. 
Cut the eggs, lengthwise, in two. Remove the yolks, pound 
them into a paste, by pressing through a wire sieve, and add 
thereto an equal quantity of dry Duxelle. Fill the empty 
whites with the preparation ; place them on a buttered gratin- 
dish; cover with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese; 
pour a few drops of melted butter upon the sauce, and set to 
color brown in a fierce oven. 

Hard-Boiled Eggs in Croquettes. 

Cut the eggs into small dice (white and yolks). For every 
four eggs add four ounces of cooked mushrooms and one 
ounce of truffles, cut into dice. 

Thicken the whole with one-quarter pint of reduced white 
sauce, and spread on a dish to cool. 

When cold, divide the preparation into portions weighing 
about one and a half ounces ; roll these portions into balls on a 
floured mixing-board, and then shape them like eggs. Dip 
them into a froth of well-beaten eggs and then roll them in 
fresh breadcrumbs, and finish off the shape. Put them into 
hot fat for four minutes before dishing up ; drain, salt mod- 
erately, place on a napkin, with a center garnish of very green, 
fresh parsley, and send tomato sauce to the table with them. 

Hard-Boiled Eggs in Rissoles. 

Make a preparation of eggs as for croquettes, using a little 
more sauce. Roll some puff-paste trimmings to a thickness of 
one-quarter inch, and stamp it with a round indented cutter 
two and one-half inches in diameter. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 213 

Place a small tablespoonful of the preparation in the middle 
of each piece of paste; moisten slightly all round, and make 
the rissoles by folding the outside edges of the paste over one 
another to look like a closed purse, taking care to press them 
thus together so as to join them, thus completely enclosing the 
preparation. Egg and breadcrumb them, put them into hot 
fat four minutes before serving, and dish up on a napkin, with 
a center garnish of parsley. 

Eggs a la Tripe. 

For six eggs, finely mince two onions, and fry them in but- 
ter, without letting them take any color. Add one pint of 
Bechamel sauce, and set to cook gently for ten minutes. A 
few minutes before serving add the eggs, cut into large slices, 
to the sauce. Next add three spoonfuls of cream and well 
season as to taste. 

Dish up in a timbale. 

Eggs a la Tripe. (Another Method.) 

For six eggs chop up one large onion and fry in butter, but 
not to take color. Sprinkle them with one-half ounce of flour, 
moisten with one pint of boiling milk, and season with salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg, and a little cayenne pepper. 

Set to cook, gently, for fifteen minutes ; pass through a fine 
sieve, transfer to a saucepan, and heat it well. Dish up the 
eggs, quartered, in a timbale, and cover with the preparation 
of onions, very hot. 

Eggs en Cocotte. 

To poach eggs en cocotte use the bain-marie. 

Cocottes for eggs, which may be replaced by little china or 
plaited cases, are a kind of small saucepan in earthenware, in 
porcelain, or in silver, provided with a handle. The time 
generally allowed for the cooking or poaching of eggs in this 
way is ten minutes, but this is subject to variations either way. 

Having garnished the cocottes and broken the eggs into 
them, as directed in the recipes which follow, set them in a 
flat pan and pour in enough boiling water to reach within one- 
half inch of the brims of the cocottes. Place in the oven and 
cover, just leaving sufficient opening for the steam to escape. 

The eggs are done when the whites are almost set and the 
yolks are glossy. Dish them on a napkin or on a fancy dish- 
paper. 

Eggs en Cocotte with Cream. 

Heat the cocottes beforehand; pour a tablespoonful of cream 



214 STANDARD COOKERY. 

into each, followed by an egg, broken; season, and add two 
little lumps of butter, the size of one hazel nut. Place the 
cocottes in a bain-marie, and poach as before. 

Eggs en Cocotte a la Jeanne. 

Garnish the bottom of the cocottes with a thickness of one- 
third inch of chicken forcemeat with cream, mixed with a 
fourth of its volume of foie-gras. Break the egg over the 
middle, season, and poach in the usual way. When about to 
serve, surround the eggs with a line of thin white sauce. 

Eggs en Cocotte with Gravy. 
Break the eggs into buttered cocottes. Season, poach, and, 
when about to serve, surround the yolks with a thin but good 
gravy. 

Eggs en Cocotte a la Lorraine. 

Put a teaspoonful of pork, cut into dice and fried, into each 
cocotte, also two slices of Gruyere or Parmesan cheese and 
one tablespoonful of boiling cream. Break the eggs, season, 
and poach in the usual way. 

Eggs en Cocotte Roulotte. 

Garnish the bottom and sides of the cocottes with cooked 
spinach, chopped and pressed, lettuce leaves, which should be 
stewed in butter. Break the eggs, season, poach in the usual 
way, and, when about to send the eggs to the table, drop a 
touch of chopped parsley on each yolk. 

Eggs en Cocotte with Morels. 

Garnish the bottom and sides of the cocottes with minced 
morels fried in butter and thickened with a little reduced 
brown sauce. Break the eggs, season, poach, and surround the 
yolks with a thread of the same sauce when dishing up. 

Eggs en Cocotte a la Soubise. 

Garnish the bottom of the cocottes with a coating of thick 
Soubise puree. Break the eggs, season, and poach. When 
dishing up, surround the yolks with a thread of good gravy. 

Neapolitan Molded Eggs. 
Make a mixture consisting of scrambled eggs and Par- 
mesan cheese, keeping it very soft; add per four scrambled 
eggs, two small raw eggs. Fill some little, well-buttered 
brioche-molds with this preparation, and poach in the bain- 
marie. As soon as contents are properly set, turn out the 
molds on to a buttered gratin dish, besprinkle with grated Par- 



STANDARD COOKERY. 215 

mesan cheese, and coat the eggs with reduced and buttered 
brown sauce with tomato. 

Molded Eggs Palermitaine. 
Butter some shaped or plain molds ; garnish the bottoms with 
a slice of ox tongue, and besprinkle the sides with chopped 
parsley. Put the molds in ice for a while, to set the tongue 
in the butter. Break an egg into each mold, season, and poach 
in the hain-maric. Turn out the molds on tartlet crusts, gar- 
nish with macaroni and cream. 

Princess Eggs. 

Butter some narrow and deep dariole-molds ; garnish their 
bottoms with a slice of truffle, and their sides with a very thin 
coating of chicken forcemeat. 

Make a preparation of scrambled eggs, asparagus-heads, and 
truffles cut into dice, keeping them very soft, and add thereto 
raw beaten eggs in the proportion of one raw egg to every 
four scrambled. 

Fill the molds nearly full with this preparation; cover the 
eggs with a coating of forcemeat, and poach in a bain-marie 
for fifteen minutes slowly. 

Turn out the molds on a dish, and surround them with a 
thread of clear poultry brown sauce. 

Eggs Printanier. 

Butter some hexagonal molds, and garnish them, Chartreuse 
fashion, with cut-up, cooked vegetables, varying the shades. 
Break an egg into each mold; season, and poach in a bain- 
marie. Turn out the molds upon little round pieces of toast ; 
arrange these in a circle on a dish and pour in their midst 
a cream sauce finished by means of a Printanier butter with 
herbs, in the proportion of one ounce of butter to one-quarter 
pint of sauce. 

Scrambled Eggs. 

This dish is the finest of all egg preparations, provided the 
eggs be kept soft and creamy. 

They are mostly served in silver timbales, but may also 
be dished in special little croustades, or in tartlet crusts, with 
small pieces of toast shaped like crescents, lozenges, rings, 
palmettes, etc. Cook the eggs in the usual way, in a utensil 
in direct contact with the fire; but in order that the process 
of cooking may be progressive and gradual, see that the heat 
is only moderate. 



2i6 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Method of Scrambling Eggs. 

For six eggs, slightly heat two ounces of butter in a sauce- 
pan. Add the six eggs, beaten moderately, together with a 
large pinch of salt and a little pepper and one tablespoonful 
of cream ; place the pan on a slow fire, and stir constantly 
with a wooden spoon or whisk, taking care to avoid anything 
in the way of sudden, fierce heat, which would cause lumps 
to form in the mass — which should be guarded against. 

When the eggs have acquired the proper consistence, and 
are still smooth and creamy, take the saucepan off the fire, 
and finish by means of one and one-half ounces of butter and 
one tablespoonful of cream. Only whisk the eggs to be 
scrambled when absolutely necessary. 

Eggs Scrambled with Mushrooms. 

Add to the scrambled eggs six ounces of cooked mushrooms 
cut into dice, or raw mushrooms, minced and sauted in butter, 
for every four eggs. 

Dish in a timbale ; put a fine, cooked, and grooved mush- 
room in middle, and surround with a crown of mushroom 
buttons. 

Eggs Scrambled Chasseur. 
Dish the scrambled eggs in a timbale. Hollow out the mid- 
dle, and place a garnish of one fine chicken's liver, sauted per 
every four eggs. Sprinkle a pinch of parsley or tarragon on 
the garnish, and surround with a thread of brown sauce. 

Eggs Scrambled Chatillon. 
Dish the eggs in a timbale, well buttered and bread- 
crumbed, and place a garnish of mushrooms in the center. 
The mushrooms should be minced raw, and then sauted in but- 
ter. Sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley on the garnish, and 
surround with a thread of melted meat-glaze. Border the 
whole, close to the sides of the timbale, with small crescents 
of croiitons. 

Eggs Scrambled with Shrimps. 
Dish the scrambled eggs in a silver dish. Place a little 
heap of shrimps' tails bound with a few tablespoonfuls 
of shrimp sauce in the middle, and surround with a thread 
of the same sauce. 

Eggs Scrambled Fines Herbes. 

Add to the scrambled eggs a tablespoonful of chopped pars- 
ley, chervil and tarragon leaves in equal quantities. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 217 

Eggs Scrambled with Cheese. 
Break the eggs, beat them, season and add thereto for every 
two eggs, two ounces of grated Parmesan. Cook the eggs 
in the usual way on a very moderate fire, to keep them creamy. 

Scrambled Eggs Georgette. 
Bake six potatoes in the oven. Open them by means of an 
incision on their tops ; withdraw the pulp from the interior 
with the handle of a spoon, and keep the remaining shells hot. 
Prepare the scrambled eggs in the usual way, and finish 
them away from the fire with one and one-half ounces of cray- 
fish butter, and eight or ten shelled crayfish tails, or lobster 
or oyster previously poached. Garnish the potato shells with 
the preparation and dish up on a napkin. 

Scrambled Eggs with Morels. 

Add to the scrambled eggs some minced morels, sauted in 
butter and seasoned. Dish in timbales in the usual way. 

Eggs Scrambled Orloif. 
Break six eggs, beat them, and add a little fresh, thick 
cream. Cook them in the usual way, and add a few crayfishes' 
tails for every four eggs. Dish in little porcelain cases, place 
a fine slice of truffle in each of the cases, and arrange these 
on a napkin and dish up in usual way. 

Scrambled Eggs a la Piemontaise. 

Add to the scrambled eggs, per every three of the latter, 
one-half ounce of grated Parmesan cheese and a teaspoonful 
of raw grated truffles. Dish in a timbale, and garnish with 
a fine crown of sliced truffles. 

Scrambled Eggs a la Portugaise. 
Dish the eggs in a timbale, and place in the middle, some 
fine, concassed tomatoes seasoned and sauted in butter. 
Sprinkle a pinch of concassed parsley on the tomatoes, and 
surround with a thread of brown sauce. 

Scrambled Eggs Rachel. 

Add some truffles, cut into dice, and some asparagus cut 
up, to the scrambled eggs. Dish up with a little faggot of 
asparagus-heads in the middle, and a thread of brown sauce. 

Scrambled Eggs Margot. 

Prepare the scrambled eggs in the usual way, and finish 
them with the necessary quantity of almond butter. Place 
this in small tartlet crusts, baked without coloration, and sur- 



2i8 STANDARD COOKERY. 

round the tartlets with a thread of Bechamel sauce, finished 
with pistachio. 

Scrambled Eggs Rothschild. 

Finely pound the remains of six crayfish, the tails of which 
have been put aside, and add gradually, two tablespoonfuls 
of thick cream. Rub through sieve. 

Add this crayfish cream to the six beaten eggs; season, 
and cook on a moderate fire with the object of obtaining a 
smooth, soft, and creamy preparation. Serve in a timbale and 
garnish, with a small faggot of asparagus-heads placed in the 
middle of the eggs, with crayfish tails arranged in a circle 
round the asparagus, and with large slices of truffles arranged 
in a crown. 

Scrambled Eggs with Truffles. 

To the eggs add one tablespoonful of truffles, cooked in 
Madeira and cut into dice. Place these in a dish and garnish 
with a crown of sliced truffles. 

Fried Eggs. 

To cook these eggs properly, only one should be dealt with 
at a time. 

Heat some oil in an omelette-pan until it begins to smoke 
slightly; break the egg on a plate; season it and let it slide 
into the pan. Then, with a wooden spoon, quickly cover up 
the yolk with the solidified portions of the white, in order to 
keep the former soft. 

Drain the egg on a piece of stretched linen, and proceed 
in the same way with the other eggs until the required quan- 
tity has been treated. 

Fried Eggs a la Bordelaise. 

Prepare as many halved tomatoes as there are eggs, adding 
a pinch of chopped shallots to each halved tomato. When 
cooked, garnish with cepcs, finely minced and sauted; place 
a fried egg on each garnished half tomato, and arrange in 
a circle on a dish, with fried parsley in the middle. 

Fried Eggs a la Portugaise. 

Place each of the cooked eggs upon a half tomato a la 
Portugaise, i.e., stuffed with rice after having been previously 
half-baked in the oven. Arrange in a circle on a dish, and 
garnish the center with concassed tomatoes and sauted in but- 
ter. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 219 

Fried Eggs a la Provengale. 

Put each fried egg on a half tomato and seasoned, rolled 
in flour, and fried in oil. 

Set in a circle on a dish, with fried parsley in the center. 

Place the eggs, fried in oil, on little dish of spinach. The 
preparation of spinach should have anchovy fillets cut into 
dice, added to it, and a few chopped olives. 

Fried Eggs a la Romaine. 
Place the eggs, fried in oil, on a little dish of spinach. The 
preparation of spinach should have anchovy fillets, cut into 
dice, added to it, and a few chopped olives. 

Omelettes. 

An omelette is in reality scrambled eggs enclosed in a coat 
composed of coagulated egg, the seasoning of which comprises 
a small pinch of table-salt and a little pepper, and which re- 
quires one-half ounce of butter and one tablespoonful of cream 
for its preparation. 

To Prepare. 

Heat the omelette-pan until nearly a brown color. This 
will not only lend an exquisite taste to the omelette but will 
be found to ensure the perfect setting of the eggs. 

Pour in the beaten and seasoned eggs, and stir briskly with 
a fork, in order to heat the whole mass evenly. If the omelette 
is to be garnished inside, this ought to be done at the present 
stage, and then the omelette should be speedily rolled up and 
transferred to a dish, to be finished in accordance with the 
nature of its designation. 

Omelette Charles V. 

Stuff the omelette with one tablespoonful of mushrooms, 
minced and sauted in butter. Roll it up, and transfer it to a 
dish. 

Omelette a la Bruxelloise. 

Stuff the omelette with two tablespoonfuls of braised endives 
shredded and thickened with cream. Surround with a thread 
of white sauce. 

Omelette with Cepes. 

Finely mince two ounces of cepes; toss them in butter in 
an omlette-pan until they have acquired a brown color; add 
thereto a pinch of chopped shallots, and toss them again for a 
moment. 



220 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Pour the eggs into the omelette-pan; make the omelette; 
dish up, surround with a thread of brown sauce. 

Omelette with Mushrooms. 

Mince two ounces of raw mushrooms ; toss them in butter 
in an omelette-pan; add the eggs thereto, and make the 
omelette. Transfer it to a dish, lay three little cooked and 
grooved mushrooms upon it, and surround with a thread of 
meat juice. 

Omelette a la Choisy. 

Stuff the omelette with one tablespoonful of braised lettuce 
shredded and mixed with Bechamel sauce. 

Omelette Princesse. 

Stuff the omelette with three tablespoonfuls of fresh cooked 
peas, bound with butter. Roll and dish the omelette, making 
an opening lengthwise in the center, and fill with a tablespoon- 
ful of fresh peas. 

Omelette with Spinach. 

Stuff the omelette with two tablespoonfuls of spinach with 
cream, and surround with a thread of white sauce. 

Omelette Fermiere. 
To the beaten and seasoned eggs add one tablespoonful of 
very lean, cooked ham cut into dice. Pour the eggs into the 
omelette-pan, and cook them quickly, taking care to keep 
them very soft. Let the outside harden slightly ; tilt into the 
dish after the manner of a pancake, and besprinkle the surface 
with a pinch of chopped parsley. 

Omelette Aux Fines Herbes. 

Add to four eggs one tablespoonful of parsley, finely 
chopped. 
Make the omelette in the usual way. 

Omelette with Chicken's Liver. 

Stuff the omelette with two tablespoonfuls of chicken's liver 
which cut into dice or sliced, seasoned and quickly sauted in 
butter, and one-half teaspoonful of brown sauce. Dish the 
omelette, make an opening lengthwise in the center, and place 
therein one tablespoonful of chicken's liver, and a soupcon of 
chopped parsley, and surround it with brown sauce. 

Omelette with Artichoke Bottoms. 
Finely mince four small cooked artichoke bottoms, season 



STANDARD COOKERY. 221 

them, and slightly color them in butter. Add the beaten and 
seasoned eggs, and make the omelette in the usual way. 

Omelette a la Lyonnaise. 

Take an onion and cook it with butter in an omelette-pan, 
but not to color. Add the eggs with which a pinch of chopped 
parsley has been mixed, and make the omelette in the usual 
way. 

Omelette Mousseuse. 

Beat the yolks of four eggs in a bowl with a small pinch 
of salt and pepper, and a tablespoonful of thick cream. Add 
thereto one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the four whites, 
whisked to a stiff froth, and pour this preparation into a wide 
omelette-pan containing two ounces of very hot butter. Saute 
the omelette, tossing it very quickly and taking care to turn 
the outside edges of the preparation constantly towards the 
center; when the whole mass seems uniformly set, roll the 
omelette up quickly, and serve at once. 

Omelette Parmentier. 

Add a pinch of chopped parsley to four eggs, and when about 
to pour the latter into the omelette-pan, add two tablespoonfuls 
of potato cut into dice, seasoned, sauted in butter beforehand, 
and very hot. Make the omelette in the usual way. 

Omelette a la Paysanne. 

Fry with butter, in the omelette-pan, two ounces of breast 
of bacon cut into dice. Add to the eggs one tablespoonful of 
finely-sliced potatoes sauted in butter, one-half tablespoonful 
of chopped parsley, and a pinch of crushed chervil. 

Pour the whole over the bacon-dice; cook the eggs quickly, 
keeping them soft; turn the omelette after the manner of a 
pancake, tilt it immediately on to a dish and serve quickly. 

Omelette with Asparagus-Tops. 

Add one and one-half tablespoonfuls of blanched asparagus- 
tops, stewed in butter, to the omelette. Dish up the omelette, 
with the middle open, and a nice little faggot of asparagus- 
tops in the interspace. Serve at once. 

Omelette a la Provengale. 

Rub the bottom of the omelette-pan lightly with shallots or 
onions; put two tablespoonfuls of oil or clarified butter into 
the utensil, and heat until it smokes. 

Throw into the oil a fine, peeled, pressed, and pipped tomato. 



222 STANDARD COOKERY. 

cut into dice and besprinkled with a pinch of concassed pars- 
ley. Cook quickly, tossing the white, and add it to the beaten 
and seasoned eggs. Make the omelette in the usual way. 

Omelette with Kidneys. 
Add to the omelette a tablespoonful of calves' or sheep's 
kidney, cut into dice, seasoned with salt and pepper, sauted 
quickly in butter, and one tablespoonful of brown sauce. Hav- 
ing dished the omelette divide down the middle, lay some kid- 
ney-dice therein and surround with a thread of good sauce. 

Omelette a la Rossini. 

Add to the eggs one dessertspoonful of cooked foie-gras and 
as much truffle, cut into small dice. Having dished the 
omelette, place in the middle thereof a small piece of heated 
foie-gras and six slices of truffle on either side of the latter. 
Surround it with a thread of brown sauce flavored with truffle 
essence. 

Omelette with Truffles. 

Add to the omelette one tablespoonful of truffles, cut into 
dice. Make the omelette, dish it, and lay a row of fine slices 
of truffles upon it. Surround it with a thread of brown sauce. 

Cold Eggs a I'Andalouse. 

Cover six cold, well-dried poached eggs with a tomato puree 
mixed with a third of its volume of Soubise puree and half 
pint of melted aspic jelly per pint of sauce. Cut some pi- 
mentos, marinaded in oil, into very thin strips, and lay these 
upon each egg. 

Garnish as many oiled, oval tartlet molds as there are eggs 
with tomato puree thickened with jelly, and let the garnish set 
on ice. Turn out the molds, and put an egg upon each of the 
tomato tartlets ; arrange on a dish surrounded with a chain of 
puff-paste croiitons and garnish the center with chopped aspic 
jelly. 

Cold Eggs Argenteuil. 

Coat some six well-dried, soft-boiled eggs, slightly cut at 
their base to make them stand, with a chaud-froid sauce com- 
bined with a good third of its volume of asparagus-tops puree. 
Sprinkle with cold, melted jelly, until a glossy coating is ob- 
tained. Brown sauce or white sauce or mayonnaise can be 
adopted instead of the jelly, if preferred. 

Eggs. 
Garnish the center of a dish with a salad of asparagus- 



STANDARD COOKERY. 223 

tops; surround this with fine slices of cold potato, cut up with 
a fancy-cutter about one inch in diameter, and arrange the 
eggs all round. 

Cold Eggs Capucin. 

Carefully dry six cold, poached eggs, and half-coat them 
lengthwise with a white chaud-froid sauce; complete the coat- 
ing on the other side with a smooth puree of tomatoes thick- 
ened with jelly. Leave these two coats to set, placing the eggs 
in a cool place or on ice for that purpose. 

Garnish the center of a round dish with a small pyramid of 
cold salad of lobster, and place the eggs round the latter. 

Cold Eggs Careme. 

Cook six eggs on a china dish, leave them to cool, and trim 
with an even fancy-cutter, round in shape. Place each egg 
on a tartlet crust, garnished with dice of cooked salmon, 
mixed with mayonnaise. 

Surround with a caviare, and lay a thin slice of truffle on 
each egg. 

Cold Eggs Colbert 

Garnish some small molds in any design according to taste. 
Put a small, cold, poached egg into each mold, fill up with 
melted, white jelly, and leave to set. Garnish the center of 
a dish with a vegetable salad; arrange the eggs taken from 
their molds around this, and surround with a little chopped 
jelly and quarters of yolk of hard-boiled eggs. 

Cold Eggs. 

Let a thin coat of jelly set upon the bottom and sides of 
some small, oval molds. Garnish the latter to any fancy de- 
sign; now insert a very small, cold, poached egg into each 
mold, and fill up with a melted jelly. 

Garnish the center of a dish with a vegetable salad, encircled 
by sliced, cold potatoes, place the eggs, removed from their 
molds, all round. Border with jelly. 

Cold Eggs, Frou-Frou. 

Poach six eggs of equal size, cover them with a white chaud- 
froid sauce or mayonnaise combined with about a third of its 
volume of a puree of hard-boiled egg-yolks. 

Garnish the top of each egg with a slice of truffle, and sur- 
round the base of the eggs with a narrow ribbon of ox tongue 
cut very thin. Glaze with jelly, and leave to set on ice. 

Prepare a salad of green vegetables (peas, French beans 



224 STANDARD COOKERY. 

cut into dice or lozenges, asparagus-tops) and thicken with a 
very little mayonnaise mixed with melted jelly. For dishing 
up place the salad in the middle of a dish and surround the 
base with a line of chopped jelly. 

Cold Eggs a la Neva. 

Cut off the ends of three hard-boiled eggs. Surround the 
tops and the bases with little anchovy fillets, and place a little 
caviare half-way along each egg. Eggs prepared in this way 
resemble little barrels of the anchovy fillets representing the 
iron hoops, and the bits of caviare the bungs. By means of a 
scraper empty the eggs with care ; garnish them with trufifle 
mayonnaise. 

Place each egg in an artichoke-bottom, garnished with finely- 
chopped jelly, and arrange in a circle on a dish with chopped 
jelly. 

Cold Eggs a la Reine. 

Prepare six soft-boiled eggs to cool. Make as many crou- 
stades of potatoes as there are eggs. Garnish the bottom and 
the sides of these croustades with a fine mince of chicken- 
meat, thickened with mayonnaise, and season moderately. 
Place a shelled soft-boiled egg in each croustade; coat thinly 
with mayonnaise slightly thickened by means of one sheet of 
gelatine ; lay a piece of truffie on each egg, and when the sauce 
has set, glaze with jelly, using a fine brush for the purpose. 
Dish up on a napkin decorated to taste. 

Cold Eggs Deutschland. 

Season some cooked young shoots of hops with salt and 
pepper; add thereto some chopped parsley, and chervil, and a 
puree of plainly-cooked tomatoes mixed with jelly. Mold in 
oiled tartlet molds, and serve on glass dish with a salad of 
hop shoots garnished with chopped aspic jelly. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 225 



JOINTS. 

Hints About Roasting Meat. 

It is well to bear in mind that during the hot weather meat 
can only be kept for a short time, and freshly-killed meat re- 
quires longer to roast than meat which is well hung. The 
usual time allowed for a joint of mutton and beef, when meat 
is preferred somewhat underdone, is a quarter of an hour for 
each pound of meat and a quarter of an hour besides, in a 
good steady oven. But when meat is liked well done and also 
in the case of a solid piece of meat which has been freed from 
bone, such as a rolled rib of beef, or the top-side of the round, 
twenty minutes to every pound of weight will not be too much 
time to allow. When the meat is cooked in the oven it is a 
good plan to put a salt jar containing boiling water into the 
oven when the meat is put in; the steam which is given off will 
prevent the meat from becoming too dry and the objectionable 
odor of burnt fat, which too often pervades the house, will be 
prevented. If the water is not exhausted about a quarter of 
an hour before the joint is ready, it should be taken out of 
the oven so that the meat is nicely browned. 

To Roast a Fowl. 
Choose a nice fresh fowl and wipe it well all over with a 
cloth wrung out of borax and water; dry it thoroughly and 
rub it over with dripping and place a small piece the size of a 
walnut inside the bird and also a small onion, with two cloves 
stuck in it, which will improve the flavor. Place the fowl in a 
baking-tin and surround it with plenty of dripping and put it 
into a well-heated oven and baste it with plenty of dripping, 
and do this frequently during the process of cooking, as it 
cannot be kept too moist. The bird, if very young, should take 
about forty minutes to cook, but an hour, or even longer, 
should be allowed for a fair-sized bird. About ten minutes 
before taking the bird from the oven it should be lightly 
dredged with flour, seasoned with salt, and basted with melted 
butter or dripping to produce the brown blistered appearance 
which is usually seen on a fowl prepared in this way. Melted 



226 STANDARD COOKERY. 

butter is preferred to dripping in that it froths in a way in 
which dripping does not and consequently produces a better 
result. Should the heat of the oven be really hot at first, the 
temperature may be slightly reduced after a little and kept at 
a steady heat until the bird is done. 

Boiled Corned Beef. 

Procure from your butcher about five pounds of silverside 
of beef which has been in brine for about twelve days. Wash 
the meat, trim off any superfluous fat, and rub it over on the 
inside with a seasoning composed of half an ounce of black 
pepper, half an ounce of mace, and half an ounce of ground 
cloves, unless the flavor of spices is objected to, when they 
should be omitted. Then roll up the meat and tie it into shape, 
and wrap it in a cloth. Put the meat into a saucepan with 
plenty of tepid water; when it boils remove the scum, and add 
carrots, turnip, onion, and celery seed and twelve whole pep- 
pers tied together in muslin. Cover the saucepan and let the 
meat simmer very slowly for five hours. If it is to be served 
cold, leave it in the saucepan until the liquor in which it is 
cooked is cold, then take it up, tighten the cloth, and place it 
between two baking-sheets with weights on the top, and let it 
remain all night. The following morning remove the cloth, 
wipe the meat thoroughly, trim and coat it with glaze, brush- 
ing it over several times. For the glaze, soak an ounce of 
gelatine in a gill of cold water, then let it dissolve in a small 
saucepan with a gill of boiling water and add sufficient Parisian 
essence to make the mixture a rich but not too dark brown. 
Pour the glaze into a bowl, and use it before it gets cold. 

Savory Round of Beef. 
Three or four pounds of the top-side of the round of beef 
should be rolled into a compact little round by the butcher; 
after washing and drying it, proceed to insert little pieces of 
bacon all over it at intervals in the following manner: — Cut 
some fat bacon into strips measuring about a quarter of an 
inch in width and four inches in length ; pierce a hole in the 
lean portion of the beef with a sharply-pointed wooden skewer 
and fill this hole with a strip of bacon; make another hole two 
or three inches away and fill this in the same way and so on 
until about eight strips of bacon have been used. Season the 
meat with salt and pepper and roast it in a well-heated oven 
in the usual manner, basting it frequently until it is done. 
This joint is equally nice hot or cold. 




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STANDARD COOKERY. 227 

Stuffed Loin of Lamb. 
Have the bones removed from a loin of lamb (about three 
to four pounds in weight) ; wash the meat and dry it well, and 
flour and salt. Make a forcemeat according to the recipe 
given below, and spread it evenly over the meat, then roll it 
up tightly, tie it with narrow tape at each end, and in the mid- 
dle, and roast it, basting it frequently, until it is thoroughly 
cooked. The appearance of the meat will be much improved 
if it is glazed after it has been allowed to get cold. For the 
forcemeat take the contents of a small can of button mush- 
rooms, drain them from the liquor in which they were pre- 
served, and chop them up into small pieces ; pour half the 
mushroom liquor into a bowl containing the breadcrumbs, add 
the chopped mushrooms, veal (or beef) suet, three ounces of 
bacon, half a teaspoonful of chopped mint, one tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley, and a quarter of a grated lemon and an onion, 
season well with celery salt and pepper, and add a little grated 
nutmeg; moisten the mixture with the egg and a little milk, if 
necessary, and it will be ready for use. This is an excellent cold 
dish, but it may be served hot, surrounded by clear gravy. 

Baked Leg of Mutton. 

Boil two or three cloves of garlic in three different waters 
in order to remove the pungent flavor, and then mince them 
finely with half a dozen boned anchovies. Take a small leg 
of mutton, cut numerous slits across the skin and well rub the 
garlic and anchovy mixture into these slits. Cover the leg of 
mutton as thickly as possible with breadcrumbs and put it into 
a baking-pan with half a pint of clear stock. Let it bake from 
an hour and a half to two hours, according to size, basting it 
from time to time with the sauce. 

The joint should be served on a dish surrounded with a 
border of mixed vegetables or macaroni. 

Larded Leg of Mutton. 

Carefully raise and turn back the skin of a small leg of 
mutton, being careful not to tear it. Then lard the joint all 
over with fine strips of celery previously half cooked in a little 
stock, strips of cucumbers, a few branches of tarragon, and 
some strips of fat bacon. Cover the whole rather thickly with 
a mixture of minced anchovies and minced herbs, w^ith pepper 
and salt. Now replace the skin and carefully sew it to the 
joint so as to cover over the larded surface. Roast the whole 
on a spit before an open fire and serve with its gravy. 



228 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Baked Fillet of Veal. 

Line a baking-dish with strips of bacon and cover with a 
layer of carrots, onions, and turnips sliced, an ounce of minced 
ham, and a little parsley, and two or three cloves. Sprinkle 
with pepper and salt and moisten with half a pint of clear 
stock. Place upon these a fillet of veal four inches thick, cut 
so as to just fit the dish. Cover closely and bake until tender, 
basting it frequently. The gravy, strained and thickened with 
flour, should be served in the same dish with tomatoes and 
fried potatoes. 

Rolled Veal. 

Put a pint of white stock (or water) into a saucepan with 
an onion in which two cloves have been stuck, a blade of mace, 
salt and pepper to taste, and let it boil gently for half an hour. 
Melt an ounce of butter in a stewpan and stir in gradually two 
large tablespoonfuls of flour, and when it is well mixed add 
the stock by degrees; let it boil up and simmer for five min- 
utes, then pour in sufficient milk to make the sauce white and 
slightly thinner; strain it and put it aside until it is required. 
Spread about two pounds of fillet of veal out on a board, and 
cover it with a layer of sausage-meat, then roll it up, secure 
it with tape and fry it for ten minutes in a small quantity of 
clarified dripping without letting it acquire any color. Then 
place it in a stewpan, cover it with the prepared sauce and let 
it cook gently in a moderately hot oven for three hours. Re- 
move the tape when the meat is ready, and place it on a hot 
dish; add a dessertspoonful of parsley to the sauce and pour 
it over the veal. 

Stuffed Breast of Veal. 

Remove the bones from a breast of veal and spread the 
meat on a board; flatten it out with a rolling-pin and cover 
it with a thick layer of sausage meat, mixed with some bread- 
crumbs, herbs and sufficient beaten egg to bind it. Then roll 
up the meat, tie it with white string or narrow tape and bake 
it in a moderate oven, basting it frequently. Remove the 
string from the veal, dish it up on a hot dish, garnish it with 
lemon cut into fancy shapes, and surround it with some thick 
brown sauce. The meat is equally nice cold. 

SOYER'S PAPER-BAG COOKERY. 

ROAST. 

Sirloin, Ribs, or Round of Beef. 

Well grease with dripping (but this is not absolutely neces- 




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STANDARD COOKERY. 229 

sary). Put the joint in a bag. Do not season the joint be- 
fore cooking. Put the joint on a grid in a moderate oven 
(300° Fahr.). 

For a three-pound joint allow forty-five minutes; seven 
pound, one hour and twenty minutes; fourteen pound, two 
hours and fifteen minutes ; twenty pound, three hours. 

Veal, Mutton or Pork 

can be cooked in the same way as beef. If a thick gravy is 
required roll the joint in flour before placing it in the paper 
bag. Allow the same time as for beef. 

Venison. 

Trim the joint of all skin and nerves. Roll in flour, cover 
the joint with fat ham, bacon, or dripping. Well season, ac- 
cording to taste; add two glasses of port wine (if desired). 
Seal joint in bag; allow plenty of space in the oven. Allow 
for joint of three pounds, one and a quarter hours ; seven 
pounds, two and a half hours; fourteen or fifteen pounds, four 
hours. This must be cooked in a moderate oven (300° Fahr.). 

Venison Sauce. 
The natural juice from the cooking is strained into a stew- 
pan. Take off all fatty matter. It can be thickened with a 
little flour, cornflour, or arrowroot, by mixing a teaspoonful 
of either with one glass of port wine, sherry, Madeira, stock, 
or water. Mix up with the juice. Bring to the boil, add 
lemon juice or any condiment, according to taste. 



230 STANDARD COOKERY. 



SWEETS AND PASTRY. 

PASTRY. 

Pastry is one of the most important branches of culinary 
science, and possibly one of the oldest, for at a very early 
period the Orientals understood the art of utilizing flour for 
this purpose. In its primitive form pastry was simply a mix- 
ture of flour, oil and honey; and it appears to have been con- 
fined to these substances for centuries, even among the south- 
ern nations of the European continent. At the commencement 
of the middle ages a change began to take place; butter fre- 
quently replaced the oil, salt was used as a flavoring ingredient, 
and the qualities of richness and lightness which are imparted 
by eggs had been discovered. The next step was to use paste 
as an enclosure for meat, and when this advance was made, 
its use in combination with fruit, cream, etc., followed as a 
matter of course. The art advanced step by step until the 
middle of the nineteeth century, the dinner tables of the in- 
tervening period having afforded considerable scope for the 
display of constructive and decorative skill. Since the dinner 
a la Russe banished almost everything of an edible nature from 
the table, any talent in this direction has been chiefly expended 
on small pastries, which, if less imposing in structure than those 
of past ages, afford a wide field for ingenuity, taste and manipu- 
lative skill. 

The recipes on the following pages comprise what may be 
termed standard pastes, and also their many variations. Nu- 
merous illustrations are given of the methods in which the 
respective preparations may be utilized for pies, tarts, tartlets, 
etc., with directions for compounding the mixtures employed 
for filling such pastry. 

Pastry Making. 

The quality especially to be desired in pastry is lightness, 
and this depends almost entirely upon the amount of cold air 
in the pastry when expansion takes place in the oven. The 
best pastry is therefore that which contains the greatest quan- 
tity of the coldest air prior to baking. The repeated foldings 



STANDARD COOKERY. 231 

and rollings to which puff paste is subjected have this in- 
crease of air in view; while in short crust the expansion is 
aided by adding baking-powder, or other acid, and alkaline 
substances, which, when moistened, combine to form a con- 
stituent identical in its composition and effect with that of the 
atmospheric air to which puff entirely owes its lightness. The 
difference between puff, or flaky, and short crust is that in the 
former there are thin layers of air and pastry alternating, and 
in the latter the air fills small cavities all over the paste. 

Puff Paste 

usually consists of flour and butter in equal proportions, but 
in short crust the proportions of fat and flour vary, and may 
be one-fourth for an economical paste, or three-fourths for a 
rich short crust. For ordinary purposes one-half pound of 
butter or fat to each pound of flour, will, with the addition of 
a good teaspoonful of baking-powder, make a sufficiently rich 
crust. Fine starchy flour makes the lightest pastry, the larger 
proportion of gluten in household flour — although exceedingly 
valuable from a dietetic point of view — tends to make pastry 
tough. Flour should always be stored in a cool, perfectly dry 
place. By sifting it before use, air is introduced, and if there 
are any lumps these may be rubbed out, with the result that 
the pastry will be lighter. When baking-powder is used it 
should be sieved with the flour, as this ensures its even distri- 
bution. 

The amount of liquid required to moisten a given quantity 
of flour varies within narrow limits, but it may be approxi- 
mately stated as being one-half to that of the flour. As a rule 
one pound of flour will need about one-half pint of water, 
but allowance must be made for the addition of eggs, or when 
the fat has been reduced to a semi-liquid condition by undue 
friction, or prolonged contact with hot hands. The consistency 
of the butter determines the amount of water to be added to 
puff paste ; when the butter is soft the paste must be equally 
so, otherwise it is impossible to keep the layers separate, and 
thus the paste is deprived of some of its flakiness. Rich short 
crust is lighter and more crumbly when made very stiff, but 
unless plain short crust is sufficiently moistened it is hard and 
tough. Lemon juice, like other acids, tends to make pastry 
lighter. 

Butter and Fat. 
The butter u^ed for making pastry should be good and 



232 STANDARD COOKERY. 

sweet, for nothing imparts its own unpleasant flavor to every- 
thing it comes in contact with more decidedly than inferior 
butter. Salt butter is not objectionable, if before being used 
it is well washed, and afterwards squeezed in a floured cloth 
to free it from moisture. Rancid butter may have some of its 
disagreeable flavor removed by kneading it first in new milk 
and afterwards in water. For ordinary pastry clarified fat 
may be recommended in preference to lard or dripping, for it 
is entirely free from the fatty taste which characterizes the 
purest home-made lard, while that bought ready prepared is 
frequently adulterated, and moreover, has occasionally a strong, 
unpleasant taste. The objectionable characteristic flavor of 
dripping may be in some measure removed by creaming it, 
that is beating it with a knife on a plate, and raising it well 
with every movement of the hand, so as to subject every part 
to the purifying influence of the atmosphere. 

Manipulation. 
The fat should be lightly, but very thoroughly, rubbed in 
with the tips of the fingers, never with the palms of the hands. 
The water should be added gradually but quickly, to prevent 
hard lumps being formed, and to keep the consistence of the 
whole mass uniform. A knife should always be used for 
mixing, it being so much cooler than the hand. Some little 
practice is necessary to acquire the light, firm, even pressure 
and dexterous movements upon which success so largely de- 
pends. Paste should never be rolled backwards and forwards, 
but in short forward rolls, lifting the rolling-pin between the 
rolls. Puff paste should never be rolled off the edges, as this 
may force out some of the air; it is better to thin the edges 
by a little pressure, or an inward roll. 

Puff Paste 

is allowed to stand between the turns in order that the butter 
may harden, and thus keep the layers of paste and butter 
separate. Paste to which baking-powder has been added 
should be put into the oven as speedily as possible, otherwise 
some of the effect of the baking-powder is wasted, its action 
beginning immediately the paste is moistened. 

Baking. 

All kinds of pastry should be baked in a moderately hot 

oven, for a high temperature is necessary to expand the air 

or gas, and thus make the pastry light, and also to burst the 

grains of the flour, thereby enabling these to absorb the fat 



STANDARD COOKERY. 233 

immediately it melts. Unless the heat is sufficiently great to 
act upon the flour in this manner, the melted fat runs out and 
leaves the paste less rich, and also, probably, both heavy and 
tough. An oven with a good bottom heat is desirable for 
baking tarts and tartlets ; when heated from above it is ad- 
visable to bake, or partially bake, the tarts before filling them. 

PASTE, CRUST, ETC. 
Batter for Frying. 

Ingredients. — Eight ounces of flour, one ounce of butter 
(melted), two tablespoonfuls of cream, two yolks of eggs, four 
whites of eggs, two good pinches of salt, one-eighth of a pint 
of warm water (about). 

Method. — Sieve the flour into a bov/I, add the salt, yolks 
of egg, butter and cream, and stir until smooth, adding the 
water gradually. Beat well, put aside for at least half an 
hour, then add the whites of eggs, previously stiffly whipped, 
and use as required. 

Batter for Frying. 

Ingredients. — Eight level tablespoonfuls of flour, two table- 
spoonfuls of salad oil, or oiled butter, four stiffly-whisked 
whites of eggs, two good pinches of salt, one-half a pint of 
warm water (about). 

Method. — Sieve the flour into a bowl, add the salt and salad 
oil, stir gently, adding the water gradually until the batter is 
sufficiently liquid to offer little resistance to the spoon, then 
beat well for ten minutes. Put aside for about half an hour, 
add warm water until the batter has the consistency of good 
single cream, then stir in the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs, 
and use as required. 

Brioche Paste. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of flour, eight ounces of butter, 
one ounce of yeast, four large or six small eggs, one-half of a 
gill of milk, two teaspoonfuls of castor sugar, salt. 

Method. — Mix the yeast with a little tepid water, stir in 
sufficient flour to form a stiff batter, and let it stand for one 
hour in a warm place. Put the remainder of the flour into a 
bowl, add a good pinch of salt and the beaten egg. Warm the 
milk, melt the butter, add gradually to the yeast, etc., then 
mix together the contents of the two bowls, and knead well 
for at least fifteen minutes. Cover, let it remain in a mod- 
erately cool place for two or three hours, then shape or mold as 
desired, and bake in a brisk oven. 



234 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Choux Paste. 

Ingredients. — Eight ounces of fine flour, eight ounces of 
butter, four ounces of sugar, four large or six small eggs, one 
pint of water, salt, vanilla essence or other flavoring. 

Method. — Put the water, butter, sugar, and two good 
pinches of salt into a stewpan, and when boiling add the flour, 
previously well dried and sieved, and stir and cook gently for 
at least ten minutes. Let it cool a little, then beat in the eggs 
one at a time, add a few drops of the flavoring ingredient and 
use as required. 

Dripping Crust. (For Plain Pies and Puddings.) 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of flour, twelve ounces of clari- 
fied dripping, one pint of water. 

Method. — With a knife mix the flour to a smooth paste, 
adding the water gradually. Roll the paste out thinly, two- 
sixths of the dripping over it in small pieces, and fold over. 
Repeat this process twice, using two-sixths of fat each time, 
and use as required. 

Flaky Paste. (For Pies, Tarts and Tartlets.) 

Ingredients. — Twenty-four ounces of flour, eighteen 
ounces of butter (or butter and lard mixed), one-half pint of 
water (about). 

Method. — Sieve the flour into a bowl, and rub in lightly 
two-sixths of the butter. Add the water and mix into a 
smooth paste, more or less moist, according to the consistency 
of the butter, with which it must agree in this respect; roll it 
out into a long, narrow strip. Divide the remainder of the 
butter into three equal portions; put one portion on the paste 
in small pieces, dredge lightly with flour, fold it evenly in 
three, turn it round so as to have the folded edges to the 
right and left when rolling, press the edges lightly with the 
rolling-pin, to prevent the air escaping, and roll out as before. 
Repeat this process with the other portions of butter. The 
pastry may be used at once, but it will be lighter if allowed 
to stand for one hour in a cool place before being used. In 
making-up, handle as lightly, and roll as evenly, as possible. 
Bake in a hot oven, and avoid opening the oven door until the 
pastry has risen and become partially baked. 

Flead Crust. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of flour, one pound of flead 
(the leaf or pork from which lard is made), two teaspoonfuls 



STANDARD COOKERY. 235 

of baking-powder, one-half of a teaspoonful of salt, one pint 
of cold water. 

Method. — Remove any skin there may be, and slice the 
flead into thin flakes, and mix it with the flour on the paste- 
board. Roll it lightly with the rolling-pin. Place in a bowl, 
add the baking-powder, salt, and sufficient cold water to form 
a fairly stiff paste. Roll out, and use for meat-pies, etc. 

French Crust or Pate Brisee. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of flour, twelve ounces of but- 
ter, four eggs, one saltspoonful of salt, one pint of water 
(about). 

Method. — Sieve the flour, add the salt, rub the butter 
lightly in, and mix into a smooth paste with the eggs and 
water, adding the latter gradually, as the paste must be very 
firm. 

French Puff Paste. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of good butter, two pounds of 
flour, the yolks of four eggs, one saltspoonful of salt, about 
one-half a pint of water. 

Method. — Remove as much moisture as possible from the 
butter by squeezing it well in a dry cloth. Put four ounces 
aside, form the remainder into a ball, and keep in a cool place. 
Sieve the flour, rub in the four ounces of butter, add the salt, 
and moisten with the yolks of eggs and water, adding the 
latter gradually, until the right consistency is obtained. 
Knead quickly and lightly until smooth, then roll out to the 
thickness of about one-half an inch. Enfold the ball of butter 
in the paste, press lightly with the rolling-pin until the butter 
is flattened, and afterwards roll out as thinly as possible with- 
out allowing the butter to break through. Fold the paste in 
three, roll out thinly as before, again fold in three, and put it 
aside. Except in very hot weather, the paste will become suffi- 
ciently cool and firm in about twenty minutes, when it should 
be rolled out twice, and again put aside in a cold place for 
about twenty minutes before receiving its fifth and sixth turns. 
After the sixth turn the paste is ready for use, and may be 
converted into tartlets, patties, vol-au-vent, etc., particulars of 
which will be found under respective headings. 

Genoese Paste. 

Ingredients. — Six ounces of fine flour, eight ounces of 
castor sugar, four ounces of butter, ten eggs. 
Method. — Dry and sieve the flour, separate the whites of 



236 STANDARD COOKERY. 

the eggs from the yolks, to the latter add the sugar, work 
vigorously until it has a thick creamy appearance, then stir 
in the butter (melted). Whip the whites to a stiff froth, stir 
in the flour, then mix lightly, but thoroughly, with the con- 
tents of the other bowl. Pour the mixture into a papered 
buttered tin, and bake in a moderately hot oven. 

Genoese Pastry. 

Ingredients. — Six ounces of fine flour, six ounces of but- 
ter, eight ounces of castor sugar, eight eggs. 

Method. — Break the eggs into a bowl, add the sugar, place 
the bowl over a saucepan of boiling water and whisk until 
lukewarm. Now remove the bowl and continue the whisking 
until the mixture becomes thick and creamy, then add the but- 
ter (melted) and stir in the previously sifted flour, as lightly 
as possible. Have ready a well-buttered papered tin, pour in 
the mixture, and bake in a moderately hot oven. 

Neapolitan Paste. 

Ingredients. — Twenty ounces of flour, sixteen ounces of 
castor sugar, eight ounces of butter, twelve ounces of sweet 
almonds, two ounces of bitter almonds, the yolks of twelve eggs, 
the finely-grated rind of two lemons, salt. 

Method. — Blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth 
paste, moistening from time to time with a little cold water to 
prevent them oiling. Add the flour, sugar, butter, lemon rind, 
and a good pinch of salt, and stir in the yolks of eggs. Work 
into a smooth paste, put aside in a cool place for about one 
and a half hours, then roll out rather thinly, and cut into 
squares or rounds. Bake in a moderate oven. 

Pancake Batter. 
See Batter for Frying. 
See Yorkshire Pudding. 

Paste for Raised Pies. 

Ingredients. — ^Two pounds of flour, twelve ounces of lard, 
one-half a pint of water, one teaspoonful of salt. 

Method. — Put the flour and salt into a warm bowl, and let 
it stand near the fire until it feels dry and warm. Boil the 
lard and water for five minutes, then pour the mixture into the 
center of the flour, and mix well with a spoon until cool enough 
to knead with the hands. Knead well, keeping it warm during 
the process, let it remain near the fire for about one hour, 
then re-knead and use at once. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 237 

Throughout the processes of mixing, kneading and molding, 
the paste must be kept warm, otherwise molding will be ex- 
tremely difficult. On the other hand, if the paste be too warm, 
it will be so soft and pliable that it cannot retain its shape, or 
support its own weight. Fine flour is not to be recommended 
for this purpose, for it is deficient in gluten, a sticky tenacious 
substance which greatly increases the adhesive properties of 
the paste, and so makes it easier to mold. 

Paste, Transparent. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of flour (dry and sifted), six- 
eighths of a pound of butter, two eggs. 

Method. — Wash the butter in two or three waters, and af- 
terwards remove as much moisture as possible by means of a 
dry cloth. Melt the butter over a gentle fire, let it remain until 
nearly cold, then stir in the flour and egg. Knead lightly until 
smooth, roll out very thinly, and use for tartlets, etc. 

Paste, to Keep. 

Paste not. intended for immediate use should be enfolded in 
grease-proof or slightly-buttered paper, and kept in a cool 
place. 

Potato Paste. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of dry floury potato, two pounds 
of flour, four ounces each of lard and dripping, two eggs, a 
little warm milk, two good teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, two 
good pinches of salt. 

Method. — Bake enough potatoes (in their skins), to yield 
two pounds of potato, which mash smoothly or pass through a 
sieve. Rub the lard and dripping lightly into the flour, add 
the potato, baking-powder and salt, and stir in the egg and 
enough milk to form a smooth paste. Roll out to about one 
inch in thickness, cut into rounds or squares, place in a greased 
tin, and bake in a moderate oven, turning two or three times 
during the process, that both sides may be equally browned. 
Split, butter liberally and serve at once. 

Potato Paste, German (To Serve with Game or Poultry). 

Ingredients. — Four pounds of hot potatoes, four ounces of 
butter, four eggs, grated Parmesan cheese, eggs and bread- 
crumbs, frying fat. 

Method. — Pass the hot potato quickly through a sieve or 
mash them smoothly. Stir in the butter and eggs, spread 
smoothly on a dish, making the layers about three-quarters of 
an inch in thickness, and, when cold, cut it into rounds or 



238 STANDARD COOKERY. 

squares. Coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs mixed 
more or less liberally with cheese, according to taste, and fry 
in hot fat until nicely browned. Serve as an accompaniment 
to game or poultry. 

Puff Paste. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of flour, two pounds of butter, 
two teaspoonfuls of lemon juice, about two-sixths of a pint 
of cold water. 

Method. — Wash and squeeze the butter in cold water, dry 
well in a floured cloth, shape into a square about the size of 
a slice of sandwich bread, and keep in a cool place while the 
paste is being prepared. Sift the flour on to a marble slab, 
or board, make a hole in the center, put in the lemon juice, 
and add water gradually until a smooth paste is formed. The 
condition of the butter determines the consistency ; when soft, 
the paste must be equally so. Knead the paste until smooth, 
then roll it out into a strip a little wider than the butter, and 
rather more than twice its length. Place the butter on one- 
half of the paste, fold the other half over, enclosing the butter 
entirely, and press the edges together with the rolling-pin. 
Let it remain in a cool place for about fifteen minutes, then 
roll out to about three times the original length, but keeping 
the width the same, and fold exactly in three. Turn the paste 
round so that the folded edges are on the right and left, roll 
and fold again, and put aside for fifteen minutes. Repeat this 
until the paste has been rolled out six times. The rolling 
should be done as evenly as possible, and the paste kept in a 
long narrow shape which, when folded, forms a square. Each 
time the paste is rolled out it may be well sprinkled with flour, 
but it must be evenly distributed with a paste-brush, and all 
the loose flour carefully brushed off before beginning to roll. 
When the paste has had its sixth roll it is ready for use; it 
should be baked in a hot oven, and until the paste has risen 
and become partially baked, the oven door should not be 
opened, because a current of cold air may cause the flakes to 
collapse on one side. 

Rough Puff Paste, or Half-Puff Paste. 

Ingredients. — Sixteen ounces of flour, twelve ounces of 
butter (or equal quantities of butter and lard), one teaspoonful 
of lemon juice, salt, about one-half a pint of water. 

Method. — Sift the flour on to a pasteboard, divide the 
butter into pieces about the size of a small walnut and mix 



STANDARD COOKERY. 239 

them lightly with the flour. Make a well in the center, put 
in the lemon juice, salt, and one tablespoonful of water, mix 
lightly, keeping the piece of butter intact, and add water 
gradually until a moderately stiff paste is formed. Roll into 
a long strip, fold it equally in three, turn it round so as to 
have the folded edges to the right and left, and roll out as 
before. Repeat until the paste has been rolled out four times, 
then use; or, if convenient, let it remain for one hour in a 
cool place before being used. 

Rich Short Crust. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of flour, six-eighths of a pound 
of butter, four yolks of eggs, two level tablespoonfuls of castor 
sugar, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Method. — Run the butter lightly into the flour, add the 
baking-powder, sugar, yolks of eggs, and a little water if nec- 
essary, but this paste must be rather stiff, and when the but- 
ter is soft, or the paste is being mixed in a warm place, only 
a few drops of water may be required. Roll out thinly and 
use at once. The crust for fruit tarts should be lightly 
brushed over with cold water, and dredged with castor sugar 
before being baked. 

Short Crust. 

Ingredients. — Sixteen ounces of flour, four ounces of butter, 
four ounces of lard, two yolks of eggs, two teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing-powder, two good pinches of salt, about two-eighths of a 
pint of water. 

Method. — Rub the butter and lard lightly into the flour, 
add the baking-powder, salt, yolk of egg, and as much water 
as is necessary to form a stiff paste. Roll out to the required 
thickness and use at once. 

Short Crust. Plain. 

Ingredients. — One pound of flour, six ounces of lard, clari- 
fied fat or dripping, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder 
(heaped), one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-half pint of water. 

Method. — Pass the flour, salt, and baking-powder through 
a sieve into a large bowl, then rub in the fat, add the water 
and work into a smooth paste with a knife. Roll out to de- 
sired shape and thickness, and use at once. When required 
for fruit tarts, two tablespoonfuls of sugar should be added 
to the above ingredients. 

Suet Crust, Rich. 

Ingredients. — Sixteen ounces of flour, six ounces of bread 



240 STANDARD COOKERY. 

crumbs, twelve ounces of suet, two heaped teaspoonfuls of 
baking-powder, one-half teaspoonful of salt, about two- 
sixths of a pint of water. 

Method. — Free the suet from skin, shred and chop it finely. 
Mix well together the flour, bread-crumbs, suet, salt and bak- 
ing-powder, and add water to form a paste soft enough to 
roll out easily, but not sufficiently moist to stick to the board 
and rolling-pin. This paste makes an exceedingly light and 
easily-digested pudding, but in consequence of its extreme 
lightness it is liable to break if turned out of the bowl. 

Suet Crust. 

Ingredients. — Twenty-four ounces of flour, twelve ounces 
of suet, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, one-half teaspoon- 
ful of salt, two-sixths of a pint of water. 

Method. — Chop the suet finely with a little of the flour, 
mix it with the other dry ingredients, and add water to form 
a moderately stiff paste. Roll out and use at once. This 
paste is equally suitable for meat pudding, fruit pudding, jam 
roly-poly, or plain suet pudding. 

Suet Crust for Meat Pies. 

Ingredients. — Twenty-four ounces of flour, twelve ounces 
of suet, two heaped teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, one-half 
teaspoonful of salt, two-sixths of a pint of cold water. 

Method. — Free the suet from skin, shred it into fine flakes, 
but do not chop it. Add the flour to the suet, and mix both 
well together in a bowl, then add the salt, baking-powder, and 
as much water as is necessary to mix the whole into a fairly 
stiff paste. Knead lightly, then roll out, and use for any kind 
of pie intended to be eaten hot. 

Sweet Paste for Tartlets. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of fine flour, sixteen ounces 
of castor sugar, ten ounces of butter, six eggs, the finely- 
grated rind of lemon. 

Method. — Sift the flour into a bowl, make a hole in the 
center, put in the sugar, butter and eggs, and mix the whole 
into a stiff paste. Roll and use as required. 

Tarts, Tartlets, Etc. 

Ingredients. — Short paste, eight ounces of ground almonds, 
eight ounces of castor sugar, three-fourths of an ounce of 
cornflour, one ounce of butter, two whole eggs, two yolks of 
eggs, raspberry or strawberry jam, nutmeg. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 241 

Method. — Beat the eggs, add them gradually to the corn- 
flour and stir until perfectly smooth. Add the sugar, almonds, 
butter (melted) and a pinch of nutmeg. Line nine or ten 
patty pans with paste, spread about one teaspoonful of jam on 
the bottom of each one, and fill with the mixture. Bake from 
twenty to twenty-five minutes in a moderately hot oven. 

Alma Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Sixteen ounces of flour, twelve ounces of 
castor sugar, eight ounces of butter, four ounces of currants, 
four ounces of sultanas, eight eggs, two teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing-powder, the grated rind of two lemons. 

Method. — Clean and pick the currants and sultanas. 
Cream the butter and sugar together until thick and white, 
then beat in the eggs, and add the rest of the ingredients. Have 
ready a well-buttered mold or bowl, pour in the mixture, and 
steam for two hours. Serve with a suitable sauce. 

Almond Pudding, Baked. 

Ingredients. — Two penny rolls, four ounces of ground al- 
monds, two ounces of butter, two ounces of castor sugar, two 
pints of milk, six eggs, the grated rind of two lemons, two 
good pinches of cinnamon. 

Method. — Butter a pie-dish and line the bottom with thin, 
buttered slices of roll. Mix the almonds, lemon rind and cin- 
namon together and put one-half into the pie-dish. Cover with 
thin slices of roll, then add the rest of the almond mixture, 
and again cover with slices of roll. Boil the milk, and add to 
it the sugar; beat the eggs well, then pour on to them the hot, 
NOT BOILING, milk, and stir well. Now add the milk, etc., 
to the rest of the ingredients in the pie-dish, but in tablespoon- 
fuls, to avoid floating the slices of roll. Cover the pudding 
and let it stand for half an hour, then bake it gently for about 
an hour. 

Almond Pudding, Baked. 

Ingredients. — Eight ounces of ground almonds, six ounces 
of butter, four ounces of sugar, four ounces of cake crumbs 
(stale sponge cakes serve), two pints of milk, the juice and 
grated rind of one lemon, eight eggs, puff paste. 

Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together, add the 
eggs, beating each one in separately, the cakecrumbs, lemon 
rind and juice and almonds. Boil the milk, pour it over the 
rest of the ingredients, stirring all the time, return to the 
saucepan, and stir over the fire until the mixture thickens. 



242 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Have ready a pie-dish with the edges lined with paste, pour 
in the mixture, and bake gently until brown and set. Serve 
either hot or cold. 

Apple Amber Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Twelve large apples, six ounces of brown 
sugar, four ounces of butter, six eggs, two lemons, cherries, 
strips of angelica, short paste, or puff paste trimmings, castor 
sugar. 

Method. — Line the edge of a pie-dish with thin strips of 
paste about three inches wide, and decorate the edge with 
overlapping leaves or small rounds of pastry, which must be 
securely fixed by means of white of egg. Peel and slice the 
apples, stew them gently with the butter, sugar, and lemon rind 
until tender, then pass through a fine sieve, and add the yolks 
of eggs. Pour the mixture into the pie-dish, bake gently for 
twenty minutes, then pile the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs on 
the top. Dredge liberally with castor sugar, decorate with 
cherries and angelica, and replace in the oven until the whites 
of eggs harden and acquire a little color. Serve either hot or 
cold. 

Apples, Baked. 

Ingredients. — Twelve apples, two whites of eggs, castor 
sugar, jam or jelly. 

Method. — Pare and core the apples, keeping them whole ; 
roll up an apple-paring tightly, and place it in the center of 
each apple. Brush over with whites of eggs, and put aside 
until it dries; then re-coat, sprinkle with castor sugar, put the 
apples into a pie-dish, cover with a greased paper and bake 
in a slow oven until tender. Be careful not to over-cook or 
they may break. When done, remove the apple-paring and 
fill the cavity with blackberry or black currant jelly, black- 
berry or raspberry jam, or whatever may be preferred; a small 
piece of butter and some brown sugar is liked by many. 

Apple Charlotte. 

Ingredients. — Four pounds of good cooking apples, eight 
ounces of brown sugar, or to taste, two ounces of butter, the 
rind of two lemons. For lining the mold: thin slices of bread, 
oiled butter. 

Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, put them into a 
stewpan with the sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water, and 
cook until tender. When the apples are reduced to a soft 
smooth pulp, add the butter and lemon rind, and sweeten to 



STANDARD COOKERY. 243 

taste. Meanwhile take a plain souffle mold, and cover the 
bottom with a round of bread, previously cut in quarters and 
dipped into the melted butter. If a pretty dish is desired, the 
sides of the mold should be lined with rounds of bread, of 
three-quarters of an inch diameter, arranged over-lapping each 
other ; but as three or four tiers may be required this method 
occupies considerable time. It may be more quickly lined with 
long narrow strips the size of Savoy biscuits, these may also 
overlap each other, or they may be laid flat against the tin. 
Each piece of bread must be dipped into the oiled butter be- 
fore being used. When the mold is ready put in the apple 
pulp, cover the top with a round of bread, and bake in a 
moderate over for about thirty minutes. 

Apple Charlotte. (Another Method.) 
Ingredients. — Two pounds of apples, six ounces of finely- 
chopped suet, six ounces of white breadcrumbs, four ounces 
of brown sugar, one lemon (rind only), two tablespoonfuls 
of browned breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Peel, core and cut the apples into thick slices. 
Grease a pie-dish, and coat it thickly with browned bread- 
crumbs; mix together the suet and breadcrumbs, and grate 
the lemon rind. Fill the pie-dish with alternate layers of 
apple and mixed suet and crumbs, letting the bottom and top 
layers be rather thick ones of breadcrumbs ; the lemon rind 
should be mixed with the sugar and sprinkled on each layer of 
apple. Cover with a double layer of greased paper, and bake 
in a moderate oven for about one and a quarter hours. When 
ready, loosen the edges with a knife, and invert on to a hot 
dish. 

Apple Cheesecakes. 

Ingredients. — Three pounds of apples, six ounces of sugar, 
three ounces of butter, six eggs, two lemons, paste. 

Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, place them in a 
stewpan with the sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of water, sim- 
mer gently until tender, and rub them through a hair sieve. 
Return the apple-pulp to the stewpan, add the lemon juice, 
and the rind finely grated, re-heat, stir in the yolks of six eggs 
and the whites of two and cook until the mixture thickens. 
Have ready the patty-pans lined with paste and partially baked, 
fill with the apple preparation, cover lightly with stiffly- 
whipped sweetened whites of eggs, and bake in a moderate 
oven for about fifteen minutes. 



244 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Apple Dumplings, Baked. 

Ingredients. — One pound of short paste {See Pastry) ten 
or twelve apples, according to size, two tablespoonfuls of cur- 
rants, a little moist sugar. 

Method. — Peel and core the apples and fill the center with 
currants. Roll out the paste thinly, and cut it into rounds 
nearly large enough to cover the apples. Place one in the 
center of each round, wet the edges of the paste and press 
gently to the top of the apple. Put them join downwards on a 
baking-sheet, and bake them twenty or thirty minutes in a 
moderately hot oven. When nearly done, brush lightly over 
with water, sprinkle over with moist sugar, and return to the 
oven to finish baking. Serve either hot or cold. 

Apple Dumplings, Boiled. 

Ingredients. — One and a half pounds of suet paste, twelve 
apples, twelve cloves, moist sugar. 

Method. — Pare and core the apples, fill the cavities with 
sugar, and add a clove. Roll the paste and cut rounds large 
enough to rather more than three-quarters cover the apples. 
Place one on each round of paste, slightly wet the edges, and 
press them gently to the top of the apples where they must be 
completely joined. Tie each dumpling in the corner of a well- 
floured pudding cloth, put them into boiling water, and boil 
gently from forty to fifty minutes. 

Apple Pudding, Baked. 

Ingredients. — Twelve sour cooking apples, one pint of 
breadcrumbs, four or six tablespoonfuls sugar, two ounces of 
butter, two eggs. 

Method. — Pare, core and cut the apples into slices, put them 
into a stewpan with the sugar and four or six tablespoonfuls 
of water, cook until tender, then stir in the butter and well- 
beaten tgg. Coat the bottom and sides of a well-buttered pie- 
dish thickly with breadcrumbs, put a few pieces of butter on 
the top, and bake gently for about three-quarters of an hour, 
keeping the dish covered with greased paper to prevent the 
surface from becoming too brown. 

Apple Pudding, Boiled. 

Ingredients. — Twenty- four ounces of flour, twelve ounces 
of suet, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, four pounds of 
apples, four tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, twelve cloves, if 
liked. 

Method. — Peel, core and cut the apples into rather thick 



STANDARD COOKERY. 245 

slices. Make the paste as directed in recipe. Cut off rather 
more than a quarter of the paste for the lid, roll out the re- 
mainder, and with it line the bowl, previously well greased. 
Put in half the fruit, then the sugar, intersperse the cloves, 
cover with the remainder of the fruit and add one gill cold 
water. Roll out the rest of the pastry to the size of the top 
of the bowl, moisten the edges slightly, and join them care- 
fully to the edges of the pastry lining the bowl. If the pud- 
ding is to be boiled, cover the top with a well-floured cloth; 
if steamed, two folds of greased paper may be used. Cook 
from two and a half to three hours. 

Apples and Rice. 

Ingredients. — Eight or ten apples, two and a half pints of 
milk, four tablespoonfuls of rice, two heaped tablespoonfuls 
of sugar, two ounces of butter, lemon rind and other flavor- 
ing, two good pinches of salt, raspberry jam, or sugar and 
butter. 

Method. — Wash the rice, put it into a saucepan with the 
salt, lemon rind and milk, simmer until the greater part of the 
milk is absorbed and the rice becomes tender, then stir in the 
butter and sugar, and remove the lemon rind. Peel and core 
the apples, place them in a pie-dish, fill the cavities with rasp- 
berry jam or a little butter and sugar. Eill the spaces between 
the apples with rice, and bake in a slow oven until the apples 
are tender, but not broken. 

Apples and Sago. 

Ingredients. — Eight or twelve cooking apples, two pints of 
water, four tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, two tablespoonfuls 
of fine sago, the rind and juice of one lemon, a few drops of 
carmine or cochineal. 

Method. — Peel and core the apples, keeping them whole. 
Boil the water, sprinkle in the sago, stir and cook until clear. 
Now add the apples, sugar, lemon rind and juice, and simmer 
very gently until the apples are tender; then remove them, 
place them in a deep dish, add a few drops of cochineal to the 
syrup, and pour it over the apples. 

Apples with Custard Sauce. 

Ingredients. — Twelve apples, raspberry jam. For the cus- 
tard, one pint of milk, four yolks of eggs, two whites of eggs, 
two dessertspoonfuls of sugar. 

Method. — Pare and core the apples, keeping them whole; 
roll up an apple paring tightly, and place it in the center of 



246 STANDARD COOKERY. 

each apple. Put them in a deep baking-dish, barely cover 
the bottom of the dish with cold water, place on the top an 
inverted dish or pie-dish to keep in the steam, and bake gently 
until tender. Lift carefully on to a hot dish, remove the apple- 
parings, fill the cavity with jam, and pour the custard round. 
{See custard' sauce.) 

Apple Snow. 

Ingredients. — Twelve sour cooking apples, eight ounces of 
sugar, or to taste, yolks of eight eggs, four whites of eggs, 
the grated rind of one lemon, vanilla pod, one pint of milk, 
two tablespoonfuls of cream. 

Method. — Pare, core and slice the apples, put them into a 
stewpan with the lemon rind, four ounces of sugar and a 
little water. Cook until tender, rub them through a fine sieve, 
let the puree cool, then stir in the cream. Simmer the milk 
and vanilla pod together until sufficiently flavored, then remove 
the pod (dry it and place in castor sugar for future use), add 
sugar to taste, stir in the well-beaten yolks of eggs, and 
cook by the side of the fire until they thicken, stirring mean- 
while. Now put the apple puree into a buttered pie-dish, pour 
the custard on the top, and cover with the stiffly-whisked whites 
of eggs. Dredge liberally with castor sugar, and bake in a 
moderate oven until the surface hardens and acquires a little 
color. Serve hot or cold. 

Buttered Apples. 

Peel and core some large apples, but do not cut them up. 
Now cut some round slices of stale bread just large enough 
for an apple to stand upon each. Butter an earthenware cook- 
ing-pot, place bread and apples therein with a little piece of 
fresh butter on the top of each. Cover the vessel and place 
over a gentle fire. A better result will be obtained if the 
Continental method is adopted of heaping hot coals on the top 
of the cooking vessel. 

From time to time the apples must be examined and the 
hollows refilled with sugar and butter. Great care must be 
taken that the fire does not get sufficiently hot to burn the 
bread. When almost done the hollows in the apples should be 
filled with jam. 

Flaming Apples. 

Peel some small apples and arrange on the bottom of a 
stewpan. Just cover them with water and add the grated 



STANDARD COOKERY. 247 

rind of an orange or a lemon, a little cinnamon and plenty 
of sugar. Boil gently till the apples are cooked, but be care- 
ful that they do not break. Now take them cautiously one 
by one and arrange in the form of a pyramid on a dirh. Keep 
very hot while you reduce the water in which they have been 
boiled to a thick syrup. Pour this over the apples and powder 
well with sifted sugar. Now sprinkle freely with rum and set 
on fire just before serving. 

Apple Miroton. 
Mix together half a pound each of apricot marmalade and 
of apple marmalade, and pile in a mound in the middle of a 
fireproof plate. Next core and peel twelve large apples and 
slice them evenly. Place them in a dish with a large glass of 
brandy, to which has been added the juice of two lemons, a 
quarter of a pound of castor sugar, and a teaspoonful of 
powdered cinnamon. After soaking for three or four hours 
take out the slices of apple and arrange them carefully over 
it. About half an hour before the dish is required place it in 
the oven and bake till the apples are thoroughly cooked. 

Apple Pie. 

Stew one pound of pared and cored apples in a syrup made 
by dissolving half a pound of sugar in a pint of water. Be 
very careful that they do not break. Now line a dish with 
puff paste and arrange the apples inside, filling the center of 
each with orange marmalade. Sprinkle with a little chopped 
citron peel and then pour over them the syrup in which they 
have been cooked, previously reduced by boiling down with a 
little essence of vanilla. Now lay strips of puff paste over 
the apples, bake till the paste is done, and serve cold with 
whipped cream. 

Apple Tart. 

Make a dough of two pounds of flour, one pound of butter, 
two eggs, half a pint of milk, and a spoonful of sifted sugar. 
Add one ounce of yeast and let it rise. When sufficiently risen 
roll the dough out thin and place it on a buttered plate, spread- 
ing over it a little melted butter, and sprinkling freely with 
powdered sugar and grated cinnamon. Peel, core and slice 
twenty apples, lay them closely over the dough and bake in 
a brisk oven. It will take about an hour. Other fruit, such 
as plums and apricots, can be treated in the same manner. 

Apple Tart. (Another Method.) 

Ingredients. — Four pounds of apples, four tablespoonfuls 



248 STANDARD COOKERY. 

of moist sugar, eight cloves or one-half teaspoonful of grated 
lemon rind, short paste. 

Method. — Peel, core and cut the apples into thick slices. 
Roll the paste into an oval form a little larger than the top 
of the pie-dish, invert the dish in the center of the paste, and 
cut round, leaving a quarter of an inch margin on all sides. 
Line the edge of the pie-dish with the trimmings, put in half 
the apples, add the sugar, and flavoring ingredients, then the 
remainder of the fruit. Moisten the paste, lining the edge of 
the dish with water, put on the cover, press the edges together 
and notch them at intervals of about one-quarter of an inch. 
Bake in a brisk oven from forty to fifty minutes, and when 
the paste has risen and set, brush it over lightly with cold 
water, and dredge well with castor sugar. This must be done 
quickly, and the tart immediately replaced in the oven. If 
the tart is to be eaten cold, directly it leaves the oven the 
crust should be raised gently with a knife, to allow some of the 
steam to escape, otherwise it may lose some of its crispness. 

Apple Tart, Creamed. 

Ingredients. — Short crust, four pounds of apples, four 
tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, two ounces of butter, two pints 
of custard. 

Method. — Pare, core and cut the apples into thick slices, 
put them into a stewpan with the sugar, butter, and two or 
three tablespoonfuls of water, and cook very gently until tender. 
Pass the apples through a hair sieve, add more sugar, if neces- 
sary, and put the puree into a pie-dish lined with pastry. 

Bake in a quick oven until the paste has risen and set, then 
add the prepared custard, and bake more slowly until the 
pastry is sufficiently cooked and the custard firm. Serve either 
hot or cold. 

Apple Timbale. 
Take a bowl or deep dish, line with good puff paste, and bake 
till done. Next cook some apples in a syrup flavored with 
vanilla and reduce until of a somewhat thick consistency. Pour 
this into the dish, and when quite stiff turn out carefully and 
serve cold with custard sauce. 

Arrowroot Pudding, Baked. 

Ingredients. — Two pints of milk, two tablespoonfuls of 
arrowroot, two tablespoonfuls of castor sugar, six eggs, two 
pinches of salt. 

Method. — Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little milk, 



STANDARD COOKERY. 249 

boil the remainder and add it to the arrowroot, stirring all the 
time. Return to the saucepan and boil gently until it thick- 
ens, then cool slightly. Add the sugar, yolks of eggs, pre- 
viously well beaten, and stir by the side of the fire for two or 
three minutes. Whip the whites to a stiff froth, lightly add 
them to the rest of the ingredients, pour into a well-buttered 
pie-dish, and bake slowly for about half an hour. 

Arrowroot Pudding, Steamed. 

Ingredients. — Two tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, two table- 
spoonfuls of moist sugar, two pints of milk, the grated rind 
of one lemon, four eggs. 

Method. — Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little of the 
milk, boil the remainder and pour it over the arrowroot, stir- 
ring all the time. Return to the saucepan, stir and cook over 
the fire until thick, then cool slightly, and add the sugar, lemon 
rind and eggs, previously well beaten. Pour into a buttered 
mold, and steam gently from one and a quarter to one and a 
half hours. Serve with custard, wine, or any other suitable 
sauce. 

Austrian Pudding. 

Ingredients. — One pint of raspberries, moist sugar, eight 
ounces of cakecrumbs, four ounces of castor sugar, four ounces 
of ground almonds, four ounces of glace cherries, eight eggs, 
two tablespoonfuls of cream, one ounce butter. 

Method. — Put the raspberries and two tablespoonfuls of 
moist sugar into a jar placed in a saucepan containing boil- 
ing water and half cook them. Meanwhile work the yolks of 
the eggs and the castor sugar together in a bowl until thick 
and creamy, then add the cakecrumbs, ground almonds, cream, 
oiled butter, and lastly the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs. 
When the raspberries are ready, place them with their juice in 
a buttered fireproof china souffle dish, cover with the prepara- 
tion, decorate with the halved glace cherries, and bake in a 
moderate oven for about one-half hour. Serve hot. Rasp- 
berries preserved in bottles may be used when fresh ones are 
not obtainable. 

Baba with Rum Syrup. 

Ingredients — One and a half pounds of flour, one ounce of 
yeast, four ounces of castor sugar, eight ounces of butter, 
three ounces of currants cleansed and picked, one-third of a 
pint of milk, two good pinches of salt. For the syrup, one 



250 STANDARD COOKERY. 

and a half pints of water, four ounces of loaf sugar, four 
tablespoonfuls of apricot jam, two wineglassfuls of rum. 

Method. — Dry the flour thoroughly, sift eight ounces of 
it into a warm, dry bowl, add the salt, and make a hole in the 
center. Mix the yeast smoothly with a little warm milk, add 
it to the flour, knead the preparation into a smooth dough, 
then cover with a cloth, and let it rise in a warm place. Sift 
the remainder of the flour into a large bowl, make a hole in 
the center, and put in the salt, sugar, warmed butter, eggs, and 
the remainder of the milk, beat with the hand for fifteen min- 
utes and cover with a cloth. When the dough has risen to 
twice its original size, mix the contents of the bowl together, 
add the currants and knead lightly for fifteen minutes. Have 
ready one large or eight small well-buttered molds with straight 
sides, sprinkle the bottom and sides with a few currants, half 
fill with dough, stand near the fire until it rises nearly to the 
top of the mold, then bake in a moderately hot oven. When 
done, turn on to a sieve, and baste well with rum syrup, then 
place in a hot dish, pour the syrup over, and serve hot. To 
make the syrup; boil the sugar and water together until con- 
siderably reduced, then add the jam, boil for ten minutes, 
strain, return to the stewpan, put in the rum, bring to boil- 
ing point, and use as directed. 

Babas with Kirsch. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of fine flour, one and a half 
ounces of yeast, sixteen to eighteen ounces of butter, two 
tablespoonfuls of currants, cleaned, two tablespoonfuls of sul- 
tanas, cleaned, two tablespoonfuls of castor sugar, ten eggs, 
the grated rind of the lemon, salt. For the syrup : one and a 
half pints of water, four ounces of loaf sugar, kirschwasser to 
flavor. 

Method. — Dry and sift the flour into a large bowl, make a 
hole in the center, and add the yeast mixed smoothly with a 
little tepid water. Let it stand for about half an hour, then 
add the well-creamed butter, currants, sultanas, sugar, lemon 
rind, two good pinches of salt, and the eggs. Beat the mix- 
ture until smooth, then cover with a cloth, and let it stand 
until it rises to nearly twice its original size. Have ready 
some buttered timbale molds, half fill them with the prepara- 
tion, let them stand until it rises nearly to the top of the molds, 
and bake in a moderately hot oven. Meanwhile boil the sugar 
and water until the syrup is formed, flavor with kirschwasser, 
pour it over the babas, or dip them in it and serve. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 251 

Bachelor's Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Sixteen ounces of flour, eight ounces of finely- 
chopped suet, eight ounces of sugar, four ounces of raisins, 
stoned, four ounces of sultanas, cleaned and picked, two eggs, 
two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, one-half pint of milk. 

Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients together, add the milk 
and the egg (previously beaten), and stir well. Put into a 
well-greased pie-dish, and bake gently for about one and a 
quarter hours. When ready, turn out of the dish, dredge well 
with sugar, and serve hot. 

Baroness Pudding. 

Ingredients. — One and a half pounds of finely-chopped suet, 
one and a half pounds of flour, one and a half pounds of 
raisins (stoned) one pint of milk, two saltspoonfuls of salt. 

Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients together, add the 
milk and stir well. Put into a well-greased bowl, and boil or 
steam for about three hours. Serve with any suitable sweet 
sauce, or with a little sugar. 

Batter Pudding, Baked. 

Ingredients. — Two pints of milk, four eggs, eight heaped 
tablespoonfuls of flour, salt, dripping. 

Method. — Put the flour and two good pinches of salt into 
a bowl, make a hole in the center, break in the eggs, stir, 
gradually mixing in the flour from the sides, and add milk 
by degrees until a thick, smooth batter is formed. Now beat 
well for ten minutes, then add the remainder of the milk, 
cover, and let it stand for at least one hour. When ready to 
use, put two tablespoonfuls of dripping into a pie-dish, and 
while it is heating give the batter another good beating. Pour 
into the dish, and bake in a quick oven for about thirty-five 
minutes. Serve with sugar, butter and sugar, jam or stewed 
fruit. 

Berlin Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Four ounces of flour, four ounces of butter, 
four ounces of castor sugar, four ounces of almonds, eight 
eggs, one pint of milk (rather less), salt. 

Method. — Blanch, peel and shred the almonds finely, then 
dry them in a cool oven. Dry and sieve the flour, add to it 
about half the milk, and stir vigorously until a smooth batter 
is formed. Put the remainder of the milk and the butter 
into a stewpan, when boiling add the sugar, batter, and a good 
pinch of salt, and stir over the fire until it thickens. Now let 



252 STANDARD COOKERY. 

it cool slightly, then beat in each yolk of egg separately, stir 
in the almonds, and lastly add the stiffly-whipped whites of 
eggs Turn the preparation into one large or eight small well- 
buttered molds, and steam a large pudding from one and a half 
to two hours, and small ones for about forty minutes. Serve 
with custard sauce or other suitable sweet sauce. 

Black-Cap Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Eight ounces of flour, two ounces of sugar, 
two ounces of currants, cleaned and picked, one pint of milk, 
two eggs, two good pinches of salt. 

Method. — Put the flour and salt into a basin, make a hole 
in the center of the flour, break in the eggs, add the milk a 
little at a time, and stir, gradually working in the flour from 
the sides. When about half the milk has been used, give the 
batter a good beating, then add the rest of the milk, the sugar 
and currants. The pudding may be cooked at once, but it 
will be lighter if allowed to first stand one hour. Cover with 
a greased paper, steam for one and a half hours, and serve 
with melted butter. 

Black-Currant Tartlets. 

Ingredients. — Short crust, two pounds of black-currants, 
four tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, one-half of a pint of cream, 
castor sugar. 

Method. — Cook the black-currants with the sugar, and four 
tablespoonfuls of water, in a jar on the stove or in a slow oven. 
Line twelve patty-pans with the paste, fill them with rice 
placed in buttered papers, and bake until crisp in a brisk oven. 
When cold, fill them with the prepared cold fruit and syrup, 
cover with stiffly-whipped, sweetened cream, and serve cold. 

Cherry Tartlets. 

Ingredients. — One pound of short paste, two pounds of 
cooking cherries, four tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, four 
large or six small eggs, castor sugar. 

Method. — Remove the stalks from the cherries, put them 
into a small stew jar with the moist sugar, stand the jar in 
a saucepan, surround it with boiling water, and cook until the 
cherries are tender. Meanwhile line ten or twelve patty-pans 
with the paste, fill them with rice, placing a buttered paper be- 
tween it and the paste, and bake in a quick oven. When the 
cherries are sufficiently cooked, strain off the syrup into a small 
stewpan, add the yolks of eggs, previously beaten, and stir 
by the side of the fire until the custard thickens. Fill the 



STANDARD COOKERY. 253 

patty-cases with cherries, cover with a layer of custard, on 
the top spread a little stififiy whipped white of egg, and sprinkle 
with castor sugar. Replace in the oven until the white of 
egg hardens, and acquires a little color, then serve hot or cold. 

Brandy Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Two wineglassfuls of brandy, one pint of 
cream, one pint of milk, eight eggs, two stale French rolls, 
four ounces of macaroons or ratafias, eight ounces of sugar, 
one teaspoonful of grated lemon rind, grated nutmeg, glace 
cherries. 

Method. — Decorate a well-buttered mold with halved cher- 
ries, and afterwards line it with thin slices of roll. About half 
fill the mold with alternate layers of macaroons and sliced 
roll, adding a few cherries, the brandy, and a little sugar. 
Mix the eggs, cream, and milk, add the sugar, lemon rind, 
and a little nutmeg, and pour the whole into the mold. Let 
it stand for one hour, then steam it gently for one and a half 
hours, and serve with a suitable sauce. 

Bread and Butter Puddings, Baked. 

Ingredients. — Ten or twelve thin slices of bread and but- 
ter, two pints of milk, four eggs, two dessertspoonfuls of sugar, 
sultanas, currants or candied lemon, if liked. 

Method. — Cut off the crust and divide each slice of bread 
into four squares, arrange them in layers in a well-buttered 
pie-dish, and sprinkle each layer with sultanas or whatever is 
being used. Beat the eggs, add the sugar, stir until dissolved, 
then mix in the milk and pour gently over the bread, which 
should only half fill the dish. Let it stand at least one hour 
for the bread to soak, then bake in a moderately cool oven 
for one hour. 

Bread Cutlets. 

Take some thick slices of stale bread, soak them in custard 
till they are just moistened, and then dip in breadcrumbs and 
fry in butter. These are eaten with baked apples, each apple 
having a little currant jam laid on it. The dish is usually ac- 
companied by a sauce made by boiling together cider, sugar, 
and cinnamon. 

Brown Bread Pudding. 
Melt in a saucepan a quarter of a pound of butter with eight 
ounces of brown breadcrumbs. When thoroughly mixed, stir 
in half a pint of claret and let the whole get cold. Now add 



254 STANDARD COOKERY. 

twelve beaten eggs, half a pound of sifted sugar, a teaspoonful 
of ground cinnamon, the grated almonds, and a few cardamom 
seeds. When thoroughly mixed, turn into a bowl, cover, and 
boil for two hours and a half. 

Bread and Butter Puddings, Steamed. 

Ingredients. — Ten or twelve slices of bread and butter, one 
and a half pints of milk, two dessertspoonfuls of sugar, four 
eggs, sultanas, raisins, currants, or candied peel, if liked. 

Method. — Butter a pudding bowl, sprinkle it with currants, 
or chopped peel, or arrange raisins or sultanas in some simple 
design on the bottom and sides of the bowl. Cut each slice 
of bread into four pieces, place them in layers, each layer be- 
ing sprinkled with fruit and a little finely-chopped candied 
peel. Beat the eggs, add the milk and sugar, stir until the sugar 
is dissolved, then pour slowly over the bread, etc. Let it stand 
at least one hour, if convenient for two hours, before being 
cooked. Cover the top with a greased paper, and steam slowly 
for about one hour. Serve with a sweet sauce or fruit syrup. 

Cabinet Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Stale sponge cakes or Savoy biscuits, one and 
a half pints of milk, eight yolks and four whites of eggs, twelve 
or sixteen ratafia biscuits, two tablespoonfuls off castor sugar, 
a few drops of vanilla, a few cherries, and a little angelica 
to ornament the mold. 

Method. — Butter a mold with plain straight sides, ornament 
the bottom with strips of angelica and cherries cut in halves, 
and line the sides with narrow strips of sponge cake or savoy 
biscuits. Break the trimmings of the cake or six or eight 
biscuits into small pieces, put them, together with the ratafias, 
into the mold. Beat the eggs, add to them the sugar, flavor- 
ing and milk, stir until the sugar is dissolved, then pour the 
custard slowly into the mold. Cover with a buttered paper, 
and steam gently for nearly one hour. 

Cabinet Pudding, Plain. 

Ingredients. — Ten or twelve thin slices of bread, two pints 
of milk, four eggs, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, four tablespoon- 
fuls of raisins, a few drops of almond essence, or other fla- 
voring. 

Method. — Cut the raisins in halves and remove the stones. 
Cut the crusts off the bread, divide each slice into strips one 
inch wide, taper one end and trim to a uniform length. Have 
ready a well-buttered bowl, decorate with raisins, and line with 



STANDARD COOKERY. 255 

strips of bread. Beat the eggs, add to them the sugar, milk 
and favoring, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Cut all 
the bread-trimming into dice, put them into the prepared bowl, 
pour on the custard, cover with a greased paper, and steam 
gently for one hour. 

Canadian Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Twelve tablespoonfuls of Indian meal, four 
tablespoonfuls of castor sugar, eight eggs, the thin rind of 
two small lemons, two quarts of milk, raisins stoned and halved. 

Method. — Mix the meal with a little cold milk, infuse the 
lemon rind in the remainder for fifteen minutes, then strain 
the boiling milk over the meal. Replace in the stewpan, add 
the sugar, and simmer gently for ten minutes. When cool, add 
the well-beaten eggs, and pour the mixture into a mold or 
bowl previously well-buttered and decorated with raisins. 
Steam for two and a half hours, then serve with a suitable 
sauce. 

Caramel Pudding. 

Ingredients. — For the caramel : four ounces of loaf sugar, 
four tablespoonfuls of cold water. For the custard: one pint 
of milk, eight yolks and four whites of eggs, two tablespoonfuls 
of castor sugar, a few drops of vanilla or other flavoring. 

Method. — Boil the loaf sugar and cold water together until 
the liquid acquires a light brown color, then pour it into a char- 
lotte or plain timbale mold, and turn the mold slowly round 
and round until every part of it is coated with the caramel. 
Beat the eggs, add to them the sugar, flavoring and milk, and 
stir until the sugar is dissolved. Strain the custard into the 
mold, cover with a greased paper, steam very slowly for about 
forty minutes, then turn out carefully. No other sauce is 
needed than the caramel, which runs off when the pudding is 
inverted. This pudding is equally nice cold; when intended 
to be served thus, it may be allowed to cool before being turned 
out of the mold, and so lessen the probability of its breaking. 
If preferred six dariole molds may be used instead of one large 
mold. 

Caramel Rice Pudding. 

Ingredients. — For the caramel : eight ounces of loaf sugar, 
one-half pint of water. For the pudding: six ounces of rice, 
two pints of milk, two tablespoonfuls of castor sugar, four 
eggs, vanilla essence. 

Method. — Prepare the caramel and line the mold as directed 



256 STANDARD COOKERY. 

in the preceding recipe. Simmer the rice in the milk until 
tender, cool slightly, then stir in the well-beaten eggs, sugar, 
and a few drops of vanilla essence. Turn into the prepared 
mold, cover with buttered paper, and steam for nearly one 
hour. Serve either hot or cold. If preferred the rice may be 
steamed in dariole molds. 

Cassell Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Four eggs and their weight in butter, castor 
sugar and flour, two saltspoonfuls of finely-grated lemon rind, 
jam. 

Method. — Whisk the eggs well, stir in the sugar and flour, 
and add the butter slightly warmed. Have ready some well- 
buttered cups, cover the bottom of each one with jam, and fill 
it three-quarters full with the mixture. Bake in a moderate 
oven for twenty-five minutes, and serve with boiled custard 
{see recipes for same.) 

Chestnut Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Twelve ounces of chestnuts (weighed after 
the skins are removed), two ounces of chocolate, four ounces 
of cakecrumbs, four ounces of flour, four ounces of butter, 
two ounces of castor sugar, eight eggs, one pint of milk, one 
teaspoonful of essence of vanilla. 

Method. — Bake or roast the chestnuts, remove both skins, 
put them into a stewpan with a very small quantity of water, 
cook until tender, then rub through a fine sieve. Break the 
chocolate into small pieces, put it and the milk into a stewpan, 
and simmer until dissolved. In another stewpan melt the but- 
ter, stir in the flour, cook for two or three minutes, then add 
the milk, and stir until it boils. The cakecrumbs must now be 
added, and the mixture stirred and cooked until it leaves the 
sides of the stewpan clear. Allow it to cool a little, then beat 
in the yolks of the eggs, and add the chestnut puree and the 
vanilla essence. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, 
stir them lightly into the mixture, pour into a well-buttered 
mold, cover with buttered paper, and either steam for one and 
a half hours or bake in a moderately hot oven for one hour. 
Serve with vanilla or custard sauce. 

Chestnut Amber. 

Ingredients. — One pint of chestnuts, one pint of milk, four 
ounces of breadcrumbs, two ounces of castor sugar, two ounces 
of butter, four eggs, two lemons, vanilla essence, puff paste. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 257 

Method. — Bake or roast the chestnuts for about twenty 
minutes and remove the skins. Put them into a stewpan, with 
just sufficient water to cover the bottom of the pan, simmer 
gently until tender, and rub through a fine sieve. Simmer the 
thinly-cut rind of the lemon and the milk for fifteen to twenty 
minutes and strain it over the breadcrumbs. Cream the butter 
and sugar together, until thick and smooth, add the yolks of 
the eggs, the juice of the lemon, a few drops of vanilla es- 
sence and stir in the chestnuts, breadcrumbs and milk. Have 
the pie-dish ready lined with paste, as directed for Apple 
Amber, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderately hot oven 
from twenty-five to thirty minutes, or until the mixture is 
firm and brown, and the paste sufficiently cooked. Whip the 
whites to a stiff froth, sweeten with a little sugar, pile lightly 
on the top of the pudding, and dredge well with castor sugar. 
Return to the oven until the meringue is set and acquires a little 
color. 

Chestnut Pudding. 

Parboil and peel a quart of chestnuts and then let them cook 
very gently for an hour with a cupful of milk. Next rub the 
whole through a fine sieve and add a cupful of sifted sugar, 
half a teaspoonful of vanilla, a small pinch of salt, and a little 
powdered mace. Now stir in the whisked yolks of five eggs, 
after which beat the whites to a very stiff froth and add to the 
other materials. When thoroughly blended place the whole in 
a dish and bake for a quarter of an hour. 

It may be eaten either hot or cold and is generally served 
with jam or whipped cream. 

Chocolate Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Eight ounces of chocolate, four ounces of 
cakecrumbs, four ounces of flour, four ounces of butter, two 
ounces of castor sugar, eight eggs, one pint of milk, one tea- 
spoonful of vanilla essence. 

Method. — Break the chocolate into small pieces, put it with 
the milk into a stewpan, simmer until dissolved and cool. In 
another stewpan melt the butter, stir in the flour, cook a little 
without browning, then put in the milk and stir until boiling. 
Now add the cakecrumbs, and cook gently until the mixture 
becomes thick and leaves the sides of the stewpan clear. Let 
it cool a little, then beat in the yolks of the eggs and add the 
vanilla essence. Whisk the whites to a stiff froth, stir them 



258 STANDARD COOKERY. 

lightly into the mixture, pour into a well-buttered plain mold, 
cover with buttered paper, and steam for one and a half hours, 
or bake for one hour in a moderate oven. Serve with custard, 
chocolate, or vanilla sauce. 

Chocolate Pudding. (Another Method.) 

Ingredients. — Seven ounces of breadcrumbs, four ounces of 
chocolate, three ounces of castor sugar, three ounces of butter, 
four eggs, one-half pint of milk (about), vanilla essence. 

Method. — Break the chocolate into small pieces, put it into 
a stewpan with the milk, and simmer until dissolved. Cream 
the butter and sugar together, stir in the yolks of eggs, bread- 
crumbs, milk, chocolate, and a few drops of vanilla essence, 
and mix well together. Whisk the whites stiffly, add them 
lightly to the rest of the ingredients, pour into a well-buttered 
mold, cover with a greased paper, and steam from one and a 
quarter to one and a half hours. Or, put the mixture into 
six well-buttered, large-sized dariole molds, and steam about 
twenty-five minutes. Serve with custard or vanilla sauce. 

Chocolate Tartlets. 

Ingredients. — Short paste, four ounces of grated chocolate, 
eight ounces of cakecrumbs, six ounces of castor sugar, four 
ounces of butter, one ounce of cornflour, four eggs, chocolate 
icing. 

Method. — Cream the yolks of the eggs and sugar well 
together, add the cakecrumbs, chocolate, cornflour, and the 
butter (melted). Whip the whites of the eggs stiffly, and stir 
them in as lightly as possible. Have ready twelve patty-pans 
lined with short paste, fill them with the mixture, and bake 
in a moderately hot oven from twenty to twenty-five minutes. 
When cold cover the surface of each tartlet with chocolate 
icing, allow it to harden, then serve. 

Christmas Pudding. 

Ingredients. — One pound of beef suet, four ounces of flour, 
one pound of raisins, one-half pound of mixed peel, one grated 
nutmeg, one ounce of mixed spice, one ounce of ground cin- 
namon, two gills of milk, two wineglassfuls of rum or brandy, 
one pound of breadcrumbs, one pound of sultanas, one-half 
pound of currants, two lemons, four ounces of desiccated cocoa- 
nut or shredded almonds, two pinches of salt, eight eggs. 

Method. — Skin the suet and chop it finely. Clean the fruit, 
stone the raisins, finely shred the mixed peel; peel and chop 
the lemon rind. Put all the dry ingredients in a bowl and 



STANDARD COOKERY. 259 

mix well. Add the milk, stir in the eggs one at a time, add 
the rum or brandy, and the strained juice of the lemon. Work 
the whole thoroughly for some minutes, so that the ingredients 
are well blended. Put the mixture in a well-buttered pudding 
bowl or pudding cloth ; if the latter is used it should be but- 
tered or floured. Boil for about four hours, or steam for at 
least five hours. 

Plum Pudding, Christmas. (Another Method.) 

Ingredients. — Sixteen ounces of moist sugar, sixteen 
ounces of finely-chopped suet, sixteen ounces of sultanas, 
cleaned, sixteen ounces of raisins, halved and stoned, sixteen 
ounces of currants, washed and dried, eight ounces of shredded 
mixed candied peel, eight ounces of flour, eight ounces of 
breadcrumbs, four ounces of almonds, blanched and shredded, 
the grated rind of two lemons, eight eggs, two saltspoonfuls 
of nutmeg grated, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half pint of milk, 
two wineglassfuls of brandy. 

Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients together, stir in the 
well-beaten eggs, milk and brandy, turn the mixture into two 
well-buttered bowls, steam from five to six hours. 

Com Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Six tablespoon fuls of Indian meal, two 
tablespoonfuls of castor sugar, one-half of a teaspoonful of 
finely-grated lemon rind, six eggs, two pints of milk. 

Method. — Mix the meal with a little cold milk, boil up the 
remainder, add the meal, sugar, and lemon rind, stir and cook 
gently for a few minutes. When cool, add the well-beaten 
eggs, half fill well-buttered cups with the mixture, and bake 
in a moderately hot oven for half an hour. 

Cornflour Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Two pints of milk, four tablespoonfuls of 
cornflour, two tablespoonfuls of castor sugar, four eggs, two 
pinches of salt, the grated rind of a lemon. 

Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly vi^ith a little milk, 
boil the remainder, and add to it the cornflour, stirring all the 
time. Return to the saucepan, and boil gently until it thick- 
ens, then cool slightly. Add the sugar, yolks of eggs, salt and 
lemon rind, and stir for two or three minutes by the side 
of the fire. Whisk the whites to a stiff froth, lightly add them 
to the rest of the ingredients, pour into a buttered pie-dish, and 
bake slowly for half an hour. 



26o STANDARD COOKERY. 

Cranberry Pudding. 

XSce apple pudding, and damson pudding.) 

Cream Buns. 

Ingredients. — Choux paste, one pint of cream, castor sugar. 

Method. — Shape the paste as directed in the receipe for 
Cofifee Eclairs, and bake them from ten to fifteen minutes. 
When cool, make an incision on one side, scoop out the soft 
interior, and fill them with stiffly-whipped sweetened cream. 
Dredge with castor sugar, and serve. 

Croquets of Rice. 

Ingredients. — Eight ounces of Carolina rice, four ounces 
of castor sugar, one ounce of butter, lemon rind, about three 
pints of milk, four yolks of eggs, two whole eggs, breadcrumbs, 
frying-fat, salt. 

Method. — Wash and drain the rice, put it into a stewpan 
with two pints of milk, two good pinches of salt, a little thin 
lemon rind and cook until the rice is tender, adding more 
milk as required. When done, take out the lemon rind, add 
the sugar, and the yolks of eggs, stir over the fire until suffi- 
ciently cooked, then spread the mixture on a plate. When 
ready, form into pear or cork shapes, coat with e.gg and bread- 
crumbs, and fry in hot fat until lightly browned. Drain well, 
dredge with castor sugar, and serve with a fruit syrup or 
suitable sweet sauce. 

Currant Pudding, Boiled. 

Ingredients. — One pound of currants, cleaned, one pound 
of suet finely chopped, two pounds of flour, milk, lemon, but- 
ter, sugar. 

Method. — Mix the dry ingredients together, and add suffi- 
cient milk to form a stiff batter. Turn the mixture into a 
floured cloth, boil gently for two and a half hours, and serve 
with a cut lemon, fresh butter and sugar. For directions for 
making a pudding of fresh fruit, see apple pudding, boiled, 
and damson pudding. 

Custard Pudding, Baked. 

Ingredients. — One pint of milk, two dessertspoonfuls of 
loaf or castor sugar, four eggs. 

Method. — Beat the eggs, add to them the sugar and milk, 
and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Strain into a buttered 
pie-dish, and bake in a slow oven until set (about thirty min- 
utes.) When the oven is too hot the dish should be placed 
in a tin of water, to prevent the custard baking too quickly. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 261 

Custard Pudding Baked. (Another Method,) 

Ingredients. — Two pints of milk, two tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, two teaspoonfuls of flour, one ounce of butter, four eggs, 
lemon rind, bay leaves or laurel leaves for flavoring, two 
pinches of salt, a pinch of nutmeg. 

Method. — Simmer the milk with the flavoring ingredient 
for about twenty minutes, then remove the lemon rind, or what- 
ever has been used, and put in the butter and sugar. Mix the 
flour smoothly with a little cold milk or water, pour it into the 
stewpan, stir until it boils, cook for five minutes, then cool a 
little. Beat the eggs, add them to the rest of the ingredients, 
pour into a buttered pie-dish, and bake in a slow oven for about 
forty minutes, or until set. 

Custard Pudding, Steamed. 

Ingredients. — One pint of milk, two dessertspoonfuls of 
castor sugar, six eggs, a few drops of essence of vanflla or 
other flavoring. 

Method. — Beat the eggs, add the sugar, milk and vanilla 
essence, stir until the sugar is dissolved, then pour the mixture 
into a buttered bowl, and steam very gently for half an hour. 
Serve with wine sauce. A very nice pudding may be made with 
the same quantity of milk, half the quantity of sugar, and two 
eggs, but it must be served in the bowl. 

Custard Pie. 

Ingredients. — Two quarts of milk, two tablespoonfuls of 
sugar (or to taste) two level tablespoonfuls of cornflour, six 
eggs, the rind of a lemon, or other flavoring, salt, paste. 

Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, 
simmer the remainder with the lemon rind for about twenty 
minutes, then remove the lemon rind and add the milk to the 
cornflour, stirring all the time. Replace in the stewpan, stir 
and cook for two or three minutes, add the sugar and two 
pinches of salt, and allow the mixture to cool slightly. Mean- 
while beat the eggs, and add them to the rest of the ingredients. 
Line two deep dishes or twelve deep patty-pans with paste, pour 
in the custard, and bake in a moderately hot oven until the 
paste is sufficiently cooked and the custard set. If the oven has 
not a good bottom heat the paste should be partially baked 
before putting in the custard. 

Damson Tart. 

Ingredients. — Short paste, three pints of damsons, four 
heaped tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, or to taste. 



262 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Method. — Prepare the crust as directed for apple tart. In 
the center of the pie-dish place an inverted cup or a ventilat- 
ing cup and funnel to retain the juice, half fill the dish with 
fruit, add the sugar, then put in the remainder of the fruit. 
Cover with paste, brush lightly over with cold water, sprinkle 
liberally with castor sugar, and bake in a quick oven. 

Eclairs. 

Ingredients. — Choux paste, chocolate or coffee icing, cream, 
custard or jam. 

Method. — Put the choux paste into a forcing-bag, and press 
it out on to a buttered baking-sheet in the form of small savoy 
biscuits. Or if a bag and pipe are not available, roll it on a 
floured board to the same shape. Bake from fifteen to twenty 
minutes in a moderate oven, let them cool on a sieve, then 
make an incision on the side of them and scoop out the soft 
interior. Fill the cavities with stiffly-whipped sweetened cream, 
confectioners' custard or jam, and coat them with chocolate or 
coffee icing. 

Filbert Tartlets. 

Ingredients. — Paste, six ounces of filberts, two ounces of 
ground almonds, six ounces of castor sugar, one ounce of corn- 
flour, eight yolks of eggs, one gill of cream or milk. 

Method. — Blanch and peel the nuts and chop them finely. 
Mix the cornflour smoothly with the milk, and stir it over the 
fire until it thickens. Cream the yolks of eggs and sugar 
together until thick and smooth, add the prepared nuts and al- 
monds, then stir in the cornflour and milk. Put the mixture 
into twelve patty-pans lined with paste, fix two thin strips of 
paste across each tartlet, brush over with milk, and dredge with 
castor sugar. Bake in a moderate oven for about twenty min- 
utes. 

Flan of Apples. 

Ingredients. — Six or eight apples, two tablespoonfuls of 
moist sugar, four tablespoonfuls, of sherry, eight cloves, four 
whites of eggs, castor sugar, one pound of short crust. 

Method. — Peel, core, and cut each apple into eight sections, 
place them in a stewpan, add the cloves and sherry, cover 
closely, stand the stewpan in a tin containing boiling water, 
and cook until tender, but not sufficiently so as to break easily. 
Meanwhile line a six-inch diameter flan or paste-ring with paste 
rolled out to about a quarter of an inch in thickness, fill it with 
rice, placed on an interlining of buttered paper, and bake in a 



STANDARD COOKERY. 263 

quick oven. When done, remove the rice and paper, fill with 
the apples, arranged in a pyramid, strain the juice (if any) 
over them, and sprinkle well with sugar. Whip the whites of 
eggs to a stiff froth, spread it lightly over the apples, dredge 
well with castor sugar, and bake in a cool oven until lightly- 
browned. Serve either hot or cold. 

There are two ways of making a flan without the aid of a 
ring. The first is by means of a round cake-tin. The tin is 
placed in the center of the rolled-out paste, which is cut round, 
leaving a margin of about one inch, to be afterwards raised and 
molded to the shape of the tin. Before removing the tin, a 
narrow-folded band of greased paper must be pinned lightly 
round this raised border. In the second method, the bottom 
is cut out to the required size, and a narrow strip of paste 
fastened to the edge of it by means of white of egg. A band 
of paper must support the border ; and in both cases the inside 
should be filled with rice before baking. 

Flan of Pineapple. 

Ingredients. — A preserved pineapple, castor sugar, four 
eggs, one pound of short crust. 

Method. — Prepare and bake the flan as for Apple Flan. 
Cut the pineapple into dice and remove all the specks. Strain 
the syrup, place half a pint of it in a stewpan with a dessert- 
spoonful of sugar, bring to boiling point, and simmer for three 
or four minutes. Let it cool slightly, then add the yolks of 
the eggs, and cook gently by the side of the fire until they 
thicken, stirring meanwhile. Now place the pineapple in the 
prepared flan, cover with the custard, and spread the stifHy- 
whipped whites of eggs on the top. Bake in a moderately cool 
oven until the meringue hardens, and browns slightly. Serve 
either hot or cold. 

Flan of Strawberries. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of strawberries, castor sugar, 
four whites of eggs, one pound of short crust. 

Method. — Make the flan as directed ; when about three- 
quarters baked remove the rice, and fill with strawberries from 
which the stalks have been removed. Pile the fruit high in 
the center, dredge well with castor sugar, and cover with 
stiffly-whisked white of egg. Cover the surface lightly with 
castor sugar, replace in the oven, and bake slowly for about 
fifteen minutes. When the meringue is set, cover with paper 



264 STANDARD COOKERY. 

to prevent it browning too much before the strawberries are 
sufificiently cooked. Serve either hot or cold. 

Fluted Rolls. 

Ingredients. — Puff paste, castor sugar. 

Method. — Roll out the puff paste, dredge it well with 
castor sugar, and fold as usual. Repeat this twice, then roll 
it out to about one-quarter of an inch in thickness, and stamp 
out some rounds with a fluted two-inch cutter. Roll them up, 
brush lightly over with water, dredge with castor sugar, bake 
in a moderate oven until crisp and lightly browned. 

Frangipane. 

Whisk half a dozen eggs until they are very light, and add 
carefully a pint of milk and two spoonfuls of flour. Place in a 
double saucepan — or in a large bowl immersed in a saucepan 
of water — with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and stir till the 
custard becomes moderately thick, adding gradually two ounces 
of butter, two ounces of crushed macaroon biscuits, the grated 
rind of a small lemon, and a wineglassful of rum. When 
nearly done stir in a spoonful of essence of vanilla. 

This is served cold in custard cups, and is sometimes made 
into little tarts with puff paste. 

Frangipan Tart. 

Ingredients. — Short crust, eight eggs, three ounces of 
butter, three ounces of sugar, one-half ounce of flour, one 
pint of milk, two bay-leaves, four or six fine strips of lemon 
rind, nutmeg. 

Method. — Mix the flour with a little milk, simmer the re- 
mainder with the bay-leaves, lemon rind, and two pinches of 
nutmeg, for about fifteen minutes, then strain it on the blended 
flour and milk, stirring meanwhile. Return to the stewpan, 
add the butter, sugar, and slightly-beaten eggs, and stir by 
the side of the fire until the mixture thickens, but do not let it 
boil. Line a tart-tin with the paste, pour in the preparation 
when cool, and bake from twenty-five to thirty minutes in a 
moderate oven. Serve cold. 

Fruit or Jam Turnovers. 

Ingredients. — Short crust or puff paste, stewed fruit or 
jam, castor sugar. 

Method. — Roll the paste out thinly, and cut it irtto rounds 
about four inches in diameter. Place a little fruit or jam in 
the center of each round, moisten the edges with water, and 



STANDARD COOKERY. 265 

fold the paste over on three sides in the form of a triangle. 
Seal the join carefully, turn them over, brush lightly with cold 
water, and dredge well with castor sugar. Bake in a moderate 
oven. 

Geneva Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Four pounds of sour cooking apples, six 
ounces of rice, two ounces of butter, sugar, about three pints of 
milk, one-half of a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, salt. 

Method. — Wash and drain the rice, place it in a stewpan 
with two pints of milk, and two good pinches of salt, cook un- 
til tender, adding more milk as required, and sweeten to taste. 
While the rice is cooking, pare, core and slice the apples, place 
them with the butter, cinnamon, and two good tablespoonfuls 
of sugar in a jar, stand the jar in a saucepan half full of boil- 
ing water, cook until tender, then rub through a fine sieve. 
Butter a fireproof china souffle dish, arrange the rice and apple 
puree in alternate layers, letting rice form the bottom and top 
layers, and bake in a moderate oven from thirty-five to forty 
minutes. 

Gingerbread Pudding. 

Ingredients. — One pound of flour, one-half pound of finely- 
chopped suet, one pound of treacle, two eggs, two teaspoonfuls 
of baking-powder, two teaspoonfuls of ground ginger, one-half 
pint of milk, salt. 

Method. — Mix the flour, suet, ginger, baking-powder, and a 
good pinch of salt well together. Add the milk, treacle and 
well-beaten egg, mix thoroughly, then turn into a well-greased 
mold or bowl, and steam from two and a half to three hours. 
Serve with a suitable sauce. 

Golden Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Eight ounces of breadcrumbs, eight ounces 
of finely-chopped suet, eight ounces of marmalade, four ounces 
of sugar, four eggs, milk, salt. 

Method. — Mix the breadcrumbs, suet, sugar, and two good 
pinches of salt well together. Beat the eggs well, add the 
marmalade and milk, stir into the dry ingredients, and when 
well mixed turn into a greased mold or bowl. Cover with a 
greased paper, steam from two to two and a quarter hours, 
and serve with cornflour, marmalade or other suitable sauce. 

Gooseberry Pudding, Baked. 

Ingredients. — Three pints of gooseberries, one pint of bread- 



266 STANDARD COOKERY. 

crumbs, four ounces of sugar, or to taste, three ounces of but- 
ter, six eggs. 

Method. — Cut off the tops and tails of the gooseberries, 
cook them until tender in a jar placed in a saucepan containing 
boiling water, then rub through a fine sieve. Add to the goose- 
berry puree the breadcrumbs, butter, sugar, and the eggs well 
beaten. Have ready a pie-dish with the edge lined with paste, 
pour in the preparation, bake for about forty minutes, or until 
set, then dredge well with castor sugar, and serve hot. 

Gooseberry Tart. 

Ingredients. — Three pints of gooseberries, one-half pound 
of short crust, one-half pound of moist sugar. 

Method. — With a pair of scissors cut off the tops and tails 
of the gooseberries ; put them into a deep pie-dish, pile the fruit 
high in the center, and put in the sugar; line the edge of the 
dish with short crust, put on the cover, and ornament the edges 
of the tart; bake in a good oven for about three-quarters of 
an hour, and before serving dredge with castor sugar. 

Granville Tartlets. 

Ingredients. — Short paste, six ounces of castor sugar, four 
oimces of butter, four ounces of currants, cleaned and picked, 
two ounces of ground rice, two ounces of finely-shredded can- 
died peel, six ounces of cakecrumbs, two ounces of desiccated 
cocoanut, four whites of eggs, two tablespoonfuls of cream, 
lemon essence, transparent icing. 

Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together until thick 
and smooth, add the currants, ground rice, peel, cakecrumbs, 
cream, eight or ten drops of lemon essence, and lastly, the 
stifily-whipped whites of eggs. Line eighteen small oval tart- 
let molds with paste, fill them with the preparation, and bake 
from fifteen to twenty minutes in a moderate oven. When 
cool, mask the tartlets with icing, and sprinkle them with 
desiccated cocoanut, 

Italian Pudding. 

Crush a quarter of a pound of any sweet biscuits with six 
macaroons, and mince finely two ounces of candied peel, an 
ounce of sultanas, and one ounce of pistachio nuts or almonds. 
Bind thoroughly with the yolks of ten eggs, and the whites of 
three, and add half a pint of cream and a small glass of rum. 
When thoroughly mixed place the whole in a buttered mold 
and cook in a bain-marie for about an hour. 

With this should be served a sauce made in the follov/ing 



STANDARD COOKERY. 267 

•) 
manner: — Mix in an enameled saucepan half a pound of sugar, 
a quarter of a pint of rum, a little grated lemon peel, and a 
few drops of essence of vanilla. When thoroughly hot set it 
on fire, and about five seconds afterwards extinguish by putting 
the lid on the saucepan. Then add the juice of one orange 
and pass the whole through a strainer. 

Jam Profiterolles. 
Heat without boiling half a pint of milk, two ounces of but- 
ter and an ounce of sugar. When thoroughly blended stir in a 
spoonful of orange-flower water and sufficient flour to make a 
moderately stiff paste. Next add three beaten eggs, then form 
the paste into balls as large as a small orange, and bake them 
in a cool oven. When crisp take them out, and after cooling 
split each ball and fill the interior with jam or whipped cream. 

Kleiner. 
Beat two whole eggs with the yolks of six others and a 
quarter of a pound of sifted sugar. When thoroughly blended 
stir in an ounce of melted butter with two tablespoonfuls of 
cream, and then work in nearly one pound of flour. If the 
eggs happen to be very small it will not be practical to use so 
much flour. Thoroughly knead and then roll out very thin, 
sprinkling a little more flour as you roll the paste. Cut into ob- 
long pieces from three to four inches in length, make a slit 
in the middle of each and twist one end through it. Throw 
into boiling fat and cook until they are a golden brown. 

Lemon Cheesecakes. 

Ingredients. — Short paste, two pounds of loaf sugar, one- 
half pound of butter, twelve eggs, the grated rind of four 
lemons and the juice of six, finely-shredded candied peel. 

Method. — Put the sugar, butter, lemon rind and strained 
lemon juice into a stewpan, and stir until the sugar is dis- 
solved. Beat the yolks of eggs, add them to the contents of 
the stewpan, and stir and cook slowly until the mixture thick- 
ens. Let it remain in a cool dry place until required. Line 
the patty-pans v/ith paste, three-quarters fill them with the 
preparation, add a few strips of candied peel, and bake for 
about twenty minutes in a moderately hot oven. 

Lemon Pudding, Baked. 

Ingredients. — Four lemons, four ounces of castor sugar, 
two ounces of butter, six sponge cakes, six eggs, one pint of 
milk, paste. 



268 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Method. — Put the milk, butter, sugar and grated lemon rind 
into a stewpan, boil up, let it infuse for about fifteen minutes, 
then pour over the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, stirring mean- 
while. Add the crumbled sponge cakes and lemon juice, mix 
well together, and pour into a pie-dish, the edges of which 
must be previously lined and decorated with the paste. (See 
Apple Amber.) Bake in a moderate oven from thirty to thirty- 
five minutes, or until the mixture is set, then cover with the 
stifHy-whisked whites of eggs, and dredge liberally with castor 
sugar. Replace in the oven until the meringue hardens and 
acquires a litftle color. 

Lemon Pudding, Boiled. 

Ingredients. — Sixteen ounces of breadcrumbs, four ounces 
of flour, eight ounces of finely-chopped suet, eight ounces of 
sugar, four lemons, four eggs, milk. 

Method. — Mix the breadcrumbs, flour, suet, and sugar to- 
gether, add the well-beaten yolks of eggs, the lemon juice, and 
the finely-grated rinds, add milk gradually until a stiff yet 
thoroughly moistened mixture is formed. Turn into a but- 
tered bowl and steam for about two and a half to three hours. 
Serve with cornflour or sweet melted-butter sauce. 

Lemon Tartlets. 

Ingredients. — Short paste, eight ounces of butter, eight 
ounces of castor sugar, six yolks of eggs, two lemons. 

Method. — Cream the butter and sugar well together, beat 
each yolk of egg in separately, and add the juice of the lemon 
and the rind finely grated. Let the mixture stand in a cool, 
dry place for at least twenty-four hours, then bake in patty- 
pans, previously lined with the short paste. 

Lemon Tartlets. (Another Method.) 

Ingredients. — Short paste, eight lemons, eight ounces of 
loaf sugar, eight ounces of blanched finely-shredded almonds. 

Method. — Pare the lemons thickly, boil the fruit in two or 
three waters until tender, then pound or rub through a fine 
sieve. Replace in the stewpan, add the sugar, almonds and 
lemon juice, and boil until a thick syrup is obtained. Line ten 
or twelve patty-pans with paste, fill them with the preparation, 
and bake for about twenty minutes in a moderately hot oven. 
Macaroni or Spaghetti Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Two ounces of macaroni or spaghetti, two 
ounces of butter, two ounces of sugar, two pints of milk, four 
eggs, the grated rind of one lemon, or other flavoring, salt. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 269 

Method. — Break the macaroni or spaghetti into half-inch 
lengths, put them with two pinches of salt into the milk when 
boiling, and simmer until tender. Add the sugar, butter, 
lemon rind and the well-beaten 3'olks of the eggs, stir in the 
mixture by the side of the fire for a few minutes, but do not let 
it boil. Lastly, add the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs, then 
turn the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake slowly 
from twenty-five to thirty minutes. 

Madeira Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Eight ounces of bread in small dice, four 
ounces of castor sugar, four eggs, one pint of milk, two wine- 
glassfuls of Madeira or sherry, two teaspoonfuls of grated 
lemon rind. 

Method. — Mix the bread, sugar and lemon rind together in 
a bowl. Boil the milk, pour it on the beaten eggs, stirring 
meanwhile, add the sherry, and pour over the dice of bread, 
etc. Let it soak for fifteen or twenty minutes, then pour into a 
buttered mold, and steam gently for two hours. Serve with 
custard, or wine sauce, or jam syrup. 

Maids of Honor. 

Ingredients. — Puff paste, eight ounces of castor sugar, four 
ounces of Jordan almonds, one ounce of fine flour, four yolks of 
eggs, four tablespoonfuls of cream, two tablespoonfuls of 
orange-flower water. 

Method. — Blanch and dry the almonds, and pound them in 
a mortar with the sugar until fine. Add the yolks of eggs one 
at a time, and mix in the flour, cream and orange-flower water. 
Line eight or nine small tartlet molds with paste, fill them with 
the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. 

Mid-Lent Fritters. 

Boil three cupfuls of milk with an ounce of butter and a 
little sugar, and then blend it with the yolks of four eggs and 
sufficient semolina to make the whole into a tolerably firm 
paste. Add a tablespoonful of brandy or any other flavoring 
essence that is preferred. Form the paste into rings, dust with 
flour, and fry in lard. They should be sprinkled with sugar 
before serving, and are usually eaten with gooseberry jam. 

Mincemeat. 
Ingredients. — Two pounds of finely-chopped suet, two 
pounds of currants, washed and picked, two pounds of raisins, 
stoned and quartered, two pounds of chopped apples, two 



270 STANDARD COOKERY. 

pounds of castor sugar, one pound of sultanas, one-half pound 
of shredded mixed candied peel, four lemons, one gill of brandy, 
one saltspoonful each of nutmeg, mace and cinnamon. 

Method. — Pare the lemons thinly, simmer the rinds in a 
little water until perfectly tender, then pound them or rub 
them through a fine sieve. Mix all the ingredients well to- 
gether, press into a jar, cover closely, and keep in a cool dry 
place for at least one month before using. 

Mincemeat. (Another Method.) 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of finely-chopped apples, two 
pounds of currants, cleaned and picked, one and a half pounds 
of finely-chopped suet, one and a half pounds of raisins, stoned 
and quartered, one and a half pounds of castor sugar, one-half 
pound of finely-shredded mixed candied peel, the grated rind 
and juice of four lemons, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, ground 
cloves, mace and nutmeg, mixed in equal proportions, one-half 
pint of brandy. 

Method. — Mix all these ingredients well together, press 
them into a jar, cover closely and store in a cool dry place un- 
til required. It should be kept for one month at least before 
being used. 

Mincemeat. (Another Method.) 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of chopped apples, one and a 
half pounds of currants, washed and picked, one pound of 
raisins, stoned and quartered, one pound of finely-chopped suet, 
one pound of castor sugar, four ounces of chopped candied 
peel, the juice and grated rind of two lemons, two saltspoonfuls 
of grated nutmeg. 

Method. — Mix all these ingredients well together, and keep 
in closely-covered jars in a cool dry place, until required. 

Mincemeat, Lemon. 

Ingredients. — Four large lemons, twelve large apples, one 
pound of suet, two pounds of currants, one pound of sugar, 
four ounces of candied lemon peel, two ounces of citron, mixed 
spice to taste. 

Method. — Pare the lemons, squeeze them, and boil the peel 
until it is tender enough to mash. Add to the mashed lemon 
peel the apples, which should be pared, cored and minced, the 
chopped suet, currants, sugar, sliced peel and spice. Strain 
the lemon juice into these ingredients, stir the mixture well, 
and put it in a jar with a close-fitting lid. Stir occasionally, 
and in a week or ten days the mincemeat will be ready for 
use, 



STANDARD COOKERY. 271 

Mince Pies. 

Ingredients. — Puff paste, mincemeat. 

Method. — When the paste has had the necessary number 
of turns, roll it out to about a quarter of an inch in thickness, 
and line some large-sized patty-pans with it. Fill with mince- 
meat, cover with paste, brush over lightly with cold water, and 
dredge with castor sugar. Bake in a moderately hot oven 
from twenty-five to thirty minutes, and serve either hot or 
cold. 

Nouille Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Eight ounces of nouille paste, sixteen ounces 
of castor sugar, one ounce of butter, two ounces of finely- 
shredded mixed candied peel, twelve eggs, two teaspoonfuls of 
vanilla essence. 

Method. — Roll the nouille paste out thinly, cut it into fine 
strips, put them into rapidly boiling salted water, to which the 
butter has been added, cook for ten minutes, and drain well. 
Meanwhile cream the yolks of the eggs and sugar together 
until thick and smooth, add the peel, vanilla essence, the 
nouilles when sufficiently cool, and lastly, the stiffly-whisked 
whites of eggs. Turn into a well-buttered mold, cover with a 
buttered paper, and steam from one and a quarter to one and 
three-quarter hours. Serve with a suitable sauce. 

Oatmeal Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Two tablespoonfuls of fine oatmeal, two des- 
sertspoonfuls of flour, two and a half pints of milk, two eggs, 
salt. 

Method. — Mix the oatmeal and flour smoothly with a little 
cold milk, boil up the remainder, and add the blended oatmeal 
and flour. Stir and boil gently for five minutes, add salt to 
taste, and when cool, put in the egg. Turn the whole into 
a buttered pie-dish, bake gently for twenty minutes, and serve 
with cream and sugar, or golden syrup. 

Open Tart of Strawberry or Any Other Kind of Preserve. 

Ingredients. — Trimmings of puff paste, any kind of jam. 

Method. — Butter a tart-pan of the usual shape, roll out the 
paste to the thickness of one-eighth of an inch, and line the 
pan with it, prick a few holes at the bottom with a fork to 
prevent the paste rising and blistering, and bake the tart in a 
brisk oven from ten to fifteen minutes. Let the paste cool a 
little; then fill it with preserve, place on it a few stars or 
leaves, which have been previously cut out of paste and baked, 



272 STANDARD COOKERY. 

and the tart is ready for table. By making the tart in this 
manner, both the flavor and the color of the jam are pre- 
served, which would be spoiled, were it baked in the oven on 
the paste, and less jam is required. 

Orange Tartlets. 

Ingredients. — Four good oranges, six ounces of butter, six 
ounces of sugar, six yolks of eggs, two whites of eggs, one 
teaspoonful of vanilla essence, and short paste. 

Method. — Remove the rinds of the oranges as thinly as pos- 
sible, and chop them finely. Cream the butter and sugar well 
together, beat each yolk in separately, add four tablespoonfuls 
of orange juice, the orange rind and vanilla essence. Whisk 
the whites of eggs stififly, add it lightly to the rest of the in- 
gredients and pour the mixture into the tartlet molds, pre- 
viously lined with paste. Bake from fifteen to twenty minutes 
in a moderate oven, and when three-quarters baked, dredge 
them well with castor sugar. 

Orange Tartlets. (Another Method.) 

Ingredients. — The finely-grated rind of four oranges, the 
juice of two oranges, six ounces of butter, six ounces of castor 
sugar, three ounces of cakecrumbs, four eggs, two tablespoon- 
fuls of cornflour, short paste. 

Method. — Cream the butter and sugar well together, beat 
each yolk in separately, add the grated orange peel, cornflour 
and orange juice previously mixed smoothly together, the cake- 
crumbs, and lastly, the stiffly-whipped whites of eggs. Pour 
the mixture into ten or twelve tartlet-tins previously lined 
with paste, and bake for about twenty minutes in a moderately 
hot oven. When cold, mask with the icing prepared as below. 

Parisian Tartlets. 

Ingredients. — Short paste, six ounces of butter, six ounces 
of castor sugar, four ounces of cakecrumbs, two ounces of 
cornflour, two ounces of ground almonds, four small eggs, four 
tablespoonfuls of cream, two dessertspoonfuls of lemon juice, 
one teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. 

Method. — Cream the butter and sugar well together until 
thick and smooth, add the eggs separately and beat well. Mix 
the cream and cornflour smoothly together, stir the ingredients 
into the mixture, add the ground almonds, cakecrumbs, cinna- 
mon and lemon juice, and mix well together. Line twelve 
tartlet-molds with paste, fill them with the preparation and 
bake in a moderate oven from fifteen to twenty minutes. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 273 

When about three-quarters baked, dredge them well with 
castor sugar. 

Pastry Sandwiches. 

Ingredients. — Pastry trimmings, jam, castor sugar. 

Method. — Knead the trimmings Hghtly into a smooth round 
ball and roll out very thinly, keeping the shape as square as 
possible. Spread jam evenly over one-half, fold the other 
half over, wet the edges, and press them lightly together. 
Brush over with water, dredge well with castor sugar, and 
with the back of knife blade mark the paste across in lines 
about one inch apart. Bake for about twenty minutes in a 
moderate oven, and when cold cut the paste into strips. If 
preferred, currants, with the addition of a little sugar and 
shredded candied peel, may be used instead of jam. 

Compote of Pears. 

Cut a French roll into thin slices, toast or bake until a 
golden brown and perfectly dry, after which crush the slices 
to a coarse powder. Place in an earthenware cooking pot or 
an enameled sauce-pan with three pints of water, two crushed 
cloves, and eight large pears previously peeled, cored, and 
sliced. Cover and let the whole cook gently for an hour, after 
which press through a sieve and put it back into the cooking- 
vessel with a glass of Sauterne or other white wine, the juice 
of one lemon, and two ounces of sugar. Stir well and let it 
simmer for another twenty minutes, after which pour into a 
large bowl or glass dish and place upon the ice. 

This is usually eaten very cold and with sponge cakes and 
cream. 

Pfeffernusse. 

Mix together the grated rind of a lemon, a teaspoonful of 
cinnamon, half a spoonful of ground cloves, one grated nut- 
meg, about three ounces of citron very finely minced, and a 
teaspoonful of baking-powder. Now blend thoroughly with 
one pound of sifted flour and work in four whipped eggs and 
one pound of castor sugar. Make this into small balls and 
place them in a buttered baking-dish not too close together, 
as they should swell considerably in the cooking. Bake them 
carefully in a slow oven. 

Picatostes. 

Cut some slices of stale bread into strips about the thickness 
of a finger. Soak in water, and after draining for a moment 



274 STANDARD COOKERY. 

place in a cooking pot, cover, and heat until the slices swell up. 
Then fry them in oil or other fat. These are usually eaten with 
butter. 

Cossack Plum Pudding. 

One pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of stoned 
raisins, three-quarters of a pound of fat of salt pork (well 
washed and cut into small dices or chopped), two tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar or treacle, add one-half pint of water, mix all 
together, put into a cloth tied tightly. Boil for four hours and 
serve. If time will not admit, boil only for two hours. How 
to spoil the above. Add anything to it. 
Plum Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Twelve ounces of flour, twelve ounces of 
breadcrumbs, twelve ounces of finely-chopped suet, twelve 
ounces of moist sugar, twelve ounces of raisins, halved and 
stoned, twelve ounces of currants, washed and dried, two 
heaped teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, two saltspoonfuls of 
salt, one saltspoonful of ground mace, one saltspoonful of 
grated nutmeg, about one pint of milk. 

Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients well together, add 
sufficient milk into a very stiflf batter, and turn into a well- 
greased bowl. Boil for six hours, or steam for at least seven 
hours. 

Pound Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of finely-chopped suet, two 
pounds of currants, cleaned, two pounds of raisins, stoned, one 
pound of breadcrumbs, one pound of flour, four ounces of 
shredded mixed peel, two teaspoonfuls of ground ginger, one 
grated nutmeg, one pint of milk, eight eggs. 

Method. — Mix all the ingredients well together, and add a 
little more milk if necessary. Turn into a well-buttered mold 
and boil for three and a half to four hours. 

Polish Tartlets. 

Ingredients. — Pufif paste trimmings, raspberry and apricot 
jam, chopped pistachios, grated cocoanut. 

Method. — Roll the paste out thinly, cut it into two and a 
half inch squares, moisten each corner, fold them over to meet 
in the center, and cover the joint with a small round of paste. 
Bake in a moderately hot oven for about fifteen minutes. 
When cold place a little jam at each corner, and sprinkle 
cocoanut on the raspberry jam, and a little finely-grated pis- 
tachio nut on the apricot jam. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 275 

Prune Tarts. 

Ingredients. — One and a half pounds of prunes, two table- 
spoonfuls of cranberry juice, sugar to taste, short paste. 

Method. — Scald the prunes, remove the stones, and take 
out the kernels; put the fruit and kernels into the cranberry 
juice, and add the sugar; simmer for ten minutes, when cold 
make the tarts. Any stone fruit can be cooked in the same 
way. 

Pumpkin Pie. 

Ingredients. — To every quart of pumpkin, strained, allow six 
eggs, one-quarter pound of butter, one-half pint of sweet milk, 
one-half pound of white sugar, one tablespoonful of French 
brandy, one gill of Madeira or sherry, paste. 

Method. — Cut the pumpkin into large pieces ; peel these, 
and put them into cold water over a very slow fire; simmer, 
without boiling, until every piece is tender, then strain through 
a colander, and afterwards through coarse muslin. To every 
quart of the pumpkin add the ingredients given above, the eggs 
previously beaten till thick and light, and the butter and sugar 
stirred to a cream. When well mixed, bake in a pie-dish lined 
and covered with paste. 

Puff Paste Rings with Jam, 

Ingredients. — Puff paste trimmings, jam, white of egg, 
castor sugar. 

Method. — Roll the paste out to about a quarter of an inch 
in thickness, and stamp out an equal number of rounds two and 
a half and one and three-quarter inches in diameter. Brush 
the larger rounds over with white of egg; stamp out the cen- 
ter of the smaller rounds, thus forming them into rings, one 
of which must be pressed lightly on the top of each round of 
paste. Bake in a moderately hot oven, and when cold fill 
with jam. 

Queen's Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Eight ounces of finely-chopped suet, four 
ounces of castor sugar, twelve bananas sliced, six eggs, two 
breakfast-cupfuls of wholemeal, two breakfast-cupfuls of boil- 
ing milk. 

Method. — Mix the suet, sugar, bananas and meal together, 
add the milk, and cover closely. Let the preparation stand for 
at least one hour, then add the eggs and a little more milk if 
at all stiff, and beat well. Turn into a buttered bowl, steam 
gently for about one hour, and serve with wine sauce. 



276 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Raspberry Tartlets. 

Ingredients. — Short paste, two pints o£ raspberries, one 
pound of loaf sugar, one-half pint of water, one glass of 
brandy (optional), desiccated cocoanut. 

Method. — Boil the sugar and water together until reduced 
to a syrup, add the raspberries, and cook gently for a few 
minutes. Drain, replace the syrup in the stewpan, boil rapidly 
until considerably reduced, then let it cool, and add the brandy. 
Line ten or twelve patty-pans with paste, fill them with rice, 
placed in buttered papers, and bake in a moderately hot oven 
until crisp. When cool, fill them with the prepared fruit, add 
an equal portion of syrup to each tartlet with cocoanut, and 
serve cold. 

Red Currant and Raspberry Tart. 

Ingredients. — Three pints of red currants, one pint of rasp- 
berries, four or six tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, short crust. 

Method. — Strip the currants from the stalks, put half of 
them into a pie-dish with an inverted cup in the midst, add the 
sugar and raspberries, then the remainder of the currants, 
piling them rather high in the center. Cover with paste, brush 
lightly over with water, dredge well with castor sugar and bake 
for three-quarters of an hour in moderate oven. 

Rice Fritters. 
Take a pint of milk, five ounces of rice flour, an ounce of 
crushed macaroons, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and the 
grated rind of a lemon, and make into a batter. Stir well 
over the fire, add three beaten eggs, and let the whole cool. 
When nearly cold form the\ batter into balls, roll them in 
breadcrumbs, and fry till a golden brown. Sprinkle thickly 
with powdered sugar before serving. 

Roly-Poly Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Sixteen ounces of flour, eight ounces of 
finely-chopped suet, one teaspoonful of baking-powder, two salt- 
spoonfuls of salt, four or six tablespoonfuls of jam. 

Method. — Mix the flour, suet, baking-powder and salt into 
a stiff paste with a little cold water. Roll it into a long piece 
about a quarter of an inch thick, spread on the jam to within 
one inch of the edge, and moisten the sides and far end with 
water. Roll up lightly, seal the edges, wrap the pudding in 
a scalded pudding-cloth, and secure the ends with string. Boil 
from one and a half to two hours, or bake in a quick oven for 
half that leneth of time. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 277 

St. Cloud Tartlets. 

Ingredients. — Short paste, puff paste or puff paste trim- 
mings, one pound of greengage jam, castor sugar, vanilla 
sugar, one gill of cream, glace cherries, angelica. 

Method. — Line the patty-pans with short paste, brush the 
edges lightly over with beaten egg or water, and sprinkle with 
castor sugar. Fill them with jam, and bake in a moderately 
hot oven from ten to fifteen minutes. Roll the puff paste out 
to about one eighth of an inch or less in thickness, and stamp 
out some rings fully half an inch less in diameter than the 
tartlets. Brush them over with milk, turn the wet side on to 
the castor sugar, and place on the baking-sheet sugar side up- 
wards. Bake in a quick oven ; when cold, place the rings of 
paste on the tartlets, and fill the center with cream, stiffly- 
whipped and sweetened with vanilla sugar. Place half a glace 
cherry in the center of each, and insert a few strips or leaves 
of angelica to complete the decoration. 

St. Denis Tartlets. 

Ingredients. — Pastry, four ounces of butter, four ounces 
of castor sugar, four ounces of ground almonds, two level table- 
spoonfuls of cornflour, four yolks of eggs, two whites of eggs, 
vanilla essence, raspberry jam. 

Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together until thick 
and smooth, beat in the yolks of eggs, add the ground almonds, 
cornflour, a few drops of vanilla essence, and lastly, the stifily- 
whisked whites of eggs. Line twelve tartlet molds with paste, 
spread a small teaspoonful of jam at the bottom of each one, 
fill them with the preparation, and fix two narrow strips of 
paste across the top. Bake in a moderate oven from fifteen to 
twenty minutes. 

Savarin. 

Ingredients. — Sixteen ounces of flour, one ounce of yeast, 
four ounces of castor sugar, six ounces of butter, eight eggs, 
two tablespoonfuls of cream, a little milk, salt. 

Method. — Dry and sift the flour, put four ounces of it into 
a warm bowl, add two pinches of salt, and make a hole in the 
center. Mix the yeast smoothly with a little tepid milk, add 
it to the flour, work into a smooth sponge or dough, and let it 
stand in a warm place until it expands to twice its original 
size. Put the remainder of the flour into a large bowl, add 
the sugar, warmed butter, the eggs one at a time, and a little 
tepid milk if required. Beat well for ten or fifteen minutes, 



278 STANDARD COOKERY. 

add the dough when sufificiently risen, work in the cream, and 
beat all well together for ten minutes longer. Have ready a 
well-buttered border mold, sprinkle the inside with ground rice 
and fine sugar mixed in equal quantities, or finely-shredded 
almonds, or cocoanut. Half fill with the dough, cover, and 
let it stand in a warm place until it rises, nearly to the top of 
the mold, then bake in a hot oven. 

Savarin with Pineapple. 

Ingredients. — Savarin border, prepared as directed, pre- 
served pineapple, four tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade, 
glace cherries. For the syrup : one and a half pints of water, 
six ounces of loaf sugar. 

Method. — Prepare a border as directed in the preceding 
recipe. Boil the loaf sugar and water to syrup, add to it the 
strained apricot marmalade, simmer until sufficiently thick, 
then put in the pineapple, cut into dice, and allow it to become 
thoroughly hot. When ready, place the savarin on a hot 
dish, baste it well with the syrup, then pile the pineapple in 
the center, garnish with cherries, and strain over the remainder 
of the syrup. Variety may be obtained by using apricots or 
peaches instead of the pineapple. 

Savoy Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Twelve ounces of stale savoy or sponge cake, 
four ounces of butter warmed, about four ounces of shredded 
mixed peel, two ounces of castor sugar, six eggs, about one- 
half pint of boiling milk, one glass of sherry or Marsala. 

Method. — Pass the cake through a fine wire sieve, add to it 
all the ingredients except the whites of eggs, and beat well. 
Whisk the whites of eggs stiffly, stir them lightly in, and pour 
the mixture into a buttered pie-dish. Bake in a moderate oven 
for half an hour. Or bake the mixture before adding the 
whites of eggs, which afterwards pile in a rocky form, dredge 
liberally with castor sugar, and bake until set and very lightly 
browned. 

Saxon Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Eight sponge cakes, twelve macaroons, 
thirty-six ratafias, eight eggs, one pint of milk, one-half pint 
of cream, two glasses of sherry, four ounces of almonds, a few 
glace cherries, angelica, vanilla essence. 

Method. — Blanch, peel, shred and bake the almonds until 
nicely browned. Butter a plain charlotte mold, decorate the 



STANDARD COOKERY. 279 

bottom with halves of cherries and strips of angelica, and 
sprinkle the sides thickly with the prepared almonds. Fill the 
mold with alternate layers of slices of sponge cake, pieces of 
macaroon and ratafias. Beat the eggs well, add the milk, 
cream, wine, and a few drops of vanilla. Pour this into the 
mold, cover with a buttered paper, and let the mixture stand 
for one hour. Then steam from one and a half to one and 
three-quarters hours, and serve with fruit syrup, German or 
other suitable sauce. This pudding is exceedingly nice cold, 
with whipped cream as an accompaniment. 
Semolina Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Three pints of milk, six to eight tablespoon- 
fuls of semolina, two tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, four eggs, 
bay-leaves or other flavoring, salt. 

Method. — Put the milk, with a good pinch of salt and the 
bay-leaves into a stewpan; when boiling, sprinkle in the 
semolina and cook gently for ten minutes, stirring meanwhile. 
Cool slightly, remove the bay-leaves, stir in the sugar, yolks 
of the eggs, and lastly the stiffly-whisked whites of the eggs. 
Turn into a buttered pie-dish, and bake gently from twenty-five 
to thirty minutes. 

Snowdon Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Eight ounces of finely-chopped beef suet, 
eight ounces of breadcrumbs, eight ounces of castor sugar, 
eight ounces of raisins, stoned and halved, two ounces of glace 
cherries, halved, two ounces of ground rice, four eggs, one gill 
of milk, the grated rind of two lemons, four tablespoonfuls of 
apricot marmalade or jam, one teaspoonful of ground cinna- 
mon, salt. 

Method. — Decorate the bottom and sides of a well-buttered 
mold or bowl with some of the halved cherries and raisins. Put 
the remainder into a bowl, add the suet, breadcrumbs, sugar, 
ground rice, lemon rind, cinnamon, and two good pinches of 
salt. Beat the eggs, stir in the milk and marmalade, and when 
well mixed, add them to the dry ingredients, and beat well. 
Pour the mixture into the prepared mold, cover with a buttered 
paper, and steam from one and a quarter to one and a half 
hours. Serve with fruit syrup or suitable sweet sauce. 

Swiss Pudding. 
Ingredients. — Twelve large sour baking apples, about six- 
teen ounces of breadcrumbs, brown sugar, butter, twelve cloves. 
Method. — Pare, core and slice the apples. Cover the bot- 



28o STANDARD COOKERY. 

torn of a buttered pie-dish with breadcrumbs, add a layer of 
apple, sprinkle with sugar, moisten with water, and add two or 
three cloves and a few small pieces of butter. Repeat until all 
the materials are used, letting the breadcrumbs form the top 
layer. Pour on a little oiled butter, cover with a greased paper, 
and bake gently for about three-quarters of an hour. As soon 
as the apples begin to fall remove the paper to allow the sur- 
face to brown. 

Tapioca Pudding. 

Soak a cupful of tapioca all night in three pints of cold 
water, and in the morning cook for one hour in a double sauce- 
pan, stirring frequently. When done add half a teacupful of 
sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a tumblerful of red cur- 
rant or any other fruit jelly. When thoroughly mixed pour 
into a mold and let it get cold. 

This pudding should be served with cream and castor sugar. 

Tapioca or Sago Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Two pints of milk, four tablespoonfuls of 
tapioca or sago, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, or to taste, four 
eggs (optional), nutmeg, salt. 

Method. — Boil the milk, sprinkle in the tapioca or sago, stir 
until boiling, and simmer gently until it becomes clear, stirring 
occasionally. Add the sugar and two good pinches of salt, 
and when a little cool, add the eggs, beaten. Pour into a 
greased pie-dish, and bake in a slow oven for about half an 
hour. 

Cream of Tea. 

Take half a pint of strong infusion of China tea, add five 
ounces of sugar, and mix with the beaten yolks of four eggs. 
Stir over the fire till it thickens, being careful that it does not 
boil, and then strain through a cloth. Now add a gill and a 
half of cream, and three and a quarter ounces of gelatine 
melted in a little hot water. Stir thoroughly and then beat in 
sufficient whipped cream to make one pint. Pour the whole 
into a mold and place upon ice to set. 

Timbales of Semolina. 

Ingredients. — Two bottles of apricots, or an equal quantity 
of freshly-cooked fruit, two pints of water, six ounces of 
semolina, four ounces of castor sugar, six whole eggs, angelica, 
glace cherries, almonds, four tablespoonfuls of cream, Maras- 
chino, vanilla pod. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 281 

Method. — Simmer the vanilla pod in the milk until suffi- 
ciently flavored, then remove it (dry it and keep for further 
use), sprinkle in the semolina and boil for a few minutes, stir- 
ring meanwhile. Let it cool slightly, then add the sugar, and 
beat in separately six yolks and two whites of eggs. Continue 
the beating until the mixture is nearly cold, then add the 
cream and stiffly-whisked whites of four eggs. Put the prep- 
aration into well-buttered timbale or dariole molds, and steam 
for half an hour. Meanwhile heat, between two plates, as 
many halves of apricots as there are timbales. Boil the apri- 
cot syrup until well reduced, and flavor it with a little Maras- 
chino, if liked. When ready, turn out the timbales on to a 
hot dish, place an apricot on the top of each, decorate with 
shredded almonds, strips or leaves of angelica, and halves of 
cherries, all of which should be previously prepared and 
warmed. Strain over the syrup, and serve. 

Torrijas. 
Take some slices of bread about as thick as one's finger and 
soak them first in a glass of milk sweetened and mixed with 
the yolk of an egg, and afterwards in port or any other sweet 
wine. Drain and fry in butter. Sprinkle with powdered sugar 
and grated cinnamon and serve hot. 

Molasses Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of flour, sixteen ounces of finely- 
chopped suet, four ounces of breadcrumbs, molasses, the grated 
rind of two lemons, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, salt. 

Method. — Mix the flour, suet, baking-powder, and a good 
pinch of salt together, and form into a stiff paste with cold 
water. Divide it into two equal portions; with one line the 
bowl, from the other portion cut off sufficient paste to form 
the lid, and roll the remainder out thinly. Put a layer of 
molasses in the bowl, sprinkle liberally with breadcrumbs, and 
lightly with lemon rind. From the rolled-out paste cut a round 
sufficiently large to rather more than cover the molasses, etc., 
in the bowl, moisten the edges of it with water, and join them 
carefully to the paste lining of the bowl. Now add another layer 
of molasses, breadcrumbs and lemon rind, and cover with pastry 
as before. Repeat until the pudding bowl is full, then cover 
with a greased paper, and steam for two and a half hours. 

Vermicelli Pudding. 
Ingredients. — Four ounces of vermicelli, two ounces of 



282 STANDARD COOKERY. 

sugar, or to taste, four eggs, two pints of milk, lemon rind, 
bay-leaves or other flavoring. 

Method. — Boil the milk and flavoring ingredients together, 
add the vermicelli broken into short pieces, and simmer until 
tender. Now^ take out the bay-leaves, or v^^hatever has been 
used, add the sugar and eggs, mix all lightly together, and 
pour into a buttered pie-dish. Bake in a moderate oven for 
about thirty minutes, then serve. 

Vanilla Pudding. 

Rub half a dozen sponge cakes through a sieve, or crush 
the same number of large sv^^eet biscuits. Pound six maca- 
roons, and mix the whole in a bowl with four yolks and two 
whites of eggs well whisked. Beat up the whole for some 
time, adding a gill of cream and a little essence of vanilla. 
Next whisk the two remaining whites of eggs to a froth and 
stir w^ell into the mixture which is then placed in a buttered 
mold lined with buttered paper. This should be steamed for 
about an hour, or the mold may be placed in a vessel half full 
of boiling water, covered over with a sheet of buttered paper 
and then placed in a brisk oven for an hour. 

This pudding is eaten with fruit syrup or any other sweet 
sauce. 

Victoria Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Sixteen ounces of finely-chopped beef suet, 
eight ounces of breadcrumbs, six ounces of flour, eight ounces 
of apples, eight ounces of apricot jam, four ounces of finely- 
shredded mixed peel, six ounces of dried cherries cut in 
quarters, six ounces of sugar, eight eggs, two glasses of 
brandy, one gill of cream. 

Method. — Peel, core and chop the apples finely, and mix 
with them the suet, breadcrumbs, flour, peel, cherries and 
sugar. Beat the eggs well, add the jam, cream and brandy; 
when well mixed, stir them into the dry ingredients, and beat 
well. Pour into a well-buttered mold, cover with the buttered 
paper, and steam from one and a half to two hours. Serve 
with a suitable sauce. 

Viennoise Pudding. 
Ingredients. — Ten ounces of white bread cut into small 
dice, six ounces of castor sugar, six ounces of sultanas picked 
and cleaned, four ounces of finely-shredded candied peel, two 
ounces of almonds, the grated rind of two lemons, eight yolks 
of eggs, one pint of milk, six tablespoonfuls of sherry, caramel. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 283 

Method. — Blanch, shred, and bake the almonds until well 
browned. Heat the milk, add sufficient caramel or burnt sugar 
to make it a deep nut-brown color, then pour it on the well- 
beaten yolks of eggs, stirring meanwhile. Mix the bread dice, 
sugar, sultanas, peel, almonds, and lemon rind well together, 
add the sherry and prepared milk, etc., cover, and let it stand 
for one hour. When ready, turn the mixture into a well-but- 
tered mold, steam for about two hours, and serve with Ger- 
man custard, arrowroot, or other suitable sauce. 

Welsh Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Sixteen ounces of finely-chopped suet, six- 
teen ounces of breadcrumbs, sixteen ounces of sugar, the juice 
of four large lemons, and the finely-grated rind of two lemons, 
four eggs. 

Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients together, add the eggs, 
and a little milk if the mixture appears too stiff. Turn into a 
buttered bowl, steam or boil from three and a half to four 
hours, and serve with a suitable sauce. 

Wine Pudding. 

Heat a quart of Sauterne or other white wine to boiling 
point and then add a heaped teaspoonful of cornflour, the juice 
and grated rinds of two lemons and half a pound of sugar. 
Blend thoroughly, and then stir in the beaten yolks of seven 
eggs. Be very careful that the mixture does not boil after 
adding the eggs or it will curdle. Pour out into a bowl and 
place upon ice until it is wanted. 

Yorkshire Pudding. 

Ingredients. — Two pints of milk, four eggs, eight heaped 
tablespoonfuls of flour, salt, dripping. 

Method. — Put the flour and two good pinches of salt into 
a bowl, make a hole in the center, break in the eggs, stir, 
gradually mixing in the flour from the sides, and add milk by 
degrees until a thick smooth batter is formed. Now beat well 
for ten minutes, then add the remainder of the milk, cover, 
and let it stand for at least one hour. When ready to use, 
cover the bottom of a pudding-tin with a thin layer of drip- 
ping taken from the meat tin, and while the tin and dripping 
are getting thoroughly hot in the oven, give the batter another 
good beating. Bake the pudding for ten minutes in a hot 
oven to partially cook the bottom, or, if more convenient, place 
the hottest shelf from the oven on the meat stand, and at once 
put the pudding in front of the fire, and cook it until set and 



284 STANDARD COOKERY. 

well browned. " Yorkshire " pudding is always cooked in front 
of the fire; when baked in the oven, the term "batter pudding" 
is applied to it by the people in the county whence it derives its 
name. 

SOYER'S PAPER-BAG COOKERY. 

SWEETS. 

Pastry, cakes, and sweets generally are wonderfully im- 
proved by being cooked in paper bags. The concentration of 
heat which is thus gained has the effect of making puff paste 
lighter and more regular in texture, and all cake mixtures 
" rise " in a manner that the open oven cannot produce. 

Then again, the cooking takes much less time, and I need 
not point out the value of this. In the old style the oven 
door had frequently to be opened to watch the progress. The 
pastry was thus exposed to draughts of cool air, which could 
not but produce " doughy," heavy and unsatisfactory results. 

Puff Paste. 
Take one pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of but- 
ter. Mix the flour with water and salt lightly until the con- 
sistency of butter. Leave this dough for half an hour, then 
flatten with your hand and lay your butter on the top of the 
paste. Then, fold four-corner way, and give it two rolls, as 
usual. Leave your paste in a cool place for forty-five minutes, 
and then roll twice more. Leave it for forty-five minutes and 
then roll twice again. Place it in a large paper-bag which 
will not touch the paste. Put on grid and allow twenty min- 
utes in hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Tart in a Pie-Dish. 
Place in a paper bag well sealed. Put on the grid. Allow 
thirty-five to forty-five minutes in 350° Fahr., but use pre- 
viously cooked fruit. 

Sausage Rolls 
or any other pastry, can be cooked by the same method. The 
fatty matter inside the pastry (by the paper-bag method) helps 
by the even heat to keep the paste light and, consequently, 
perfect. Allow twenty to twenty-five minutes, according to 
size in hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Apple Dumpling. 
Make in the usual way. Cook in the paper bag. Allow 
twenty minutes in hot oven (350° Fahr.). 



STANDARD COOKERY. 285 

Bananas, Apples, or Other Cooking Fruit. 

Put fruit in the paper bag, with or without butter or jam. 
Flavor to taste. Add sugar if desired. Bake twenty minutes 
in hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Scone. 

Any kind of scone or breakfast rolls should be placed in 
large loose greased bags in hot oven (350° Fahr.). Allow ten 
to fifteen minutes, according to size. 

Genoise Paste. 

Take six ounces of flour and sift it on a sheet of paper, 
then half a pound of sifted castor sugar, five ounces of but- 
ter, melted, but not hot. Break six eggs in a bowl, and place 
the bowl in some boiling water in a separate pan placed over 
gentle heat. Beat the eggs and butter for twenty minutes or 
so with a whisk to a nice consistency. Take the bowl off the 
fire, and beat the contents a little again. Add flour and but- 
ter, mix lightly with a wooden spoon, but not to stir it up to a 
cream. Flavor according to taste. Take any kind of mold 
or tin you like, well butter it, and dredge with castor sugar. 
Three parts fill it with the paste and place in the paper bag. 
Allow thirty-live minutes in a moderate oven (300° Fahr.). 

Any Kind of Cake, 

plain, madeira, sultana, raisin, etc. — can be cooked in the loose 
paper bag, on grid, in fairly hot oven (300° Fahr.). Allow 
one and a quarter hours, according to size. 

Petit Nid. 
Peel and core half a dozen cooking apples. Empty the con- 
tents of a sixpenny bottle of fruit syrup (for preference pine- 
apple) into a thickly-buttered bag. Add the apples, seal bag, 
and place on grid, simmer very gently until cooked, but take 
care that they do not get broken. Line a paper souffle case 
with puff paste, place carefully in a well-greased bag, put the 
apples in this, and twist long strips of citron and angelica round 
them. Place four ounces of butter in a clean bowl, sift in 
eight ounces of sugar, and whip to a cream. Then add the 
well-whisked yolks of four eggs, and season to taste with 
grated nutmeg. Place on the fire, and stir gently until very 
hot, then add the whites of the eggs whisked to a stiff froth. 
Stir these in lightly, then pour over the apples; place in the 
bag, put it in the oven without loss of time, and bake to a 
golden hue. Dust thickly with sifted sugar, and serve either 



286 STANDARD COOKERY. 

hot or cold. Plenty of citron or angelica must be used to give 
the idea of a nest. 

Pommes a la Duchesse. 
Take from eight to ten large apples; wash and dry them. 
Then core with a proper apple-corer. Place a bit of cinna- 
mon stick in each apple, and pour over them a tablespoonful of 
rum. Place them in a buttered bag and bake on a grid. 
When quite done remove the cinnamon and fill the center of 
each apple with a little strawberry, raspberry, or apricot jam. 
Cover the whole with very stiffly-v/hipped cream. Ornament 
with chopped pistachio nuts and pine kernels, and serve at 
once, or leave upon ice till needed. Sweet, not sour, apples 
should be selected. They should be placed on a clean dish 
and allowed to cool before the jam and cream are added. 

Pudding a la Munich. 
Take some slices of stale French bread, and toast to a 
light crisp brown; then spread thickly first with butter and 
then with golden syrup. Place a layer of golden syrup in a 
well-greased paper souffle dish, sprinkle it with washed and 
dried chopped currants, chopped sultanas, a little chopped 
lemon peel, and a very little grated nutmeg or allspice. Put 
a layer of the toast, then currants, sultanas, peel, and spice, 
and repeat the layers until the dish is full. Make a custard 
with half a pint of milk, the well-beaten yolk of an egg, and a 
tablespoonful of sifted sugar. Pour over the whole, and leave 
for fifteen minutes. Meanwhile, whip the white of the egg 
to a stiff froth, with a few drops of lemon juice; add a little 
sifted sugar and pile high on the top of the pudding. Put in 
a well-buttered bag, bake to a golden brown for thirty minutes 
in 350° Fahr. and serve. The meringue mixture may be 
omitted, and the custard made with the whole egg. In that 
case bake the pudding for thirty-Uve minutes. Dust some sifted 
sugar over, and serve. 

Puddmg a la Mayence. 

Rub one-half pint of breadcrumbs through a fine wire sieve, 
add a tumblerful of any wine and water, the grated rind of a 
small lemon, first washed and dried, three heaped-up table- 
spoonfuls of sifted sugar, and one ounce of butter. Mix all 
together, and then pour the mixture into a buttered souffle 
dish. Add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and the juice 
of a small lemon carefully strained. Beat the whites of the 
eggs to a stiff froth, with a pinch of salt and sifted sugar to 



STANDARD COOKERY. 287 

taste; color to a pale green with a few drops of spinach green- 
ing, or pale pink with a little carmine coloring or cochineal. 
Pile up on top, place in the bag, put into a very moderate oven, 
and bake till the meringue is firmly set. 

Pudding a la Baronne. 
Take half a pound of well-washed, dried, and pickled cur- 
rants, half a pound of sultana raisins, half a pound of bread- 
crumbs, an ounce of chopped citron, and four heaped tea- 
spoonfuls of golden syrup. Mix all well together, then add an 
ounce of self-raising flour and the well-beaten yolks of two 
eggs mixed with a pint of milk. Whisk all well together, and 
finally add the whites of the eggs, whisked to a firm froth. 
Fill with this a well-greased paper souffle dish, place carefully 
in a bag, and bake in an oven for an hour and a half (300° 
Fahr.). Turn out carefully and serve with a little heated 
golden syrup poured over and around it. 

Beignets a la Portugaise. 

Wash well six ounces of Carolina rice and place it in a 
clean stewpan, and add four ounces of sifted sugar, two ounces 
of butter, half a stick of cinnamon, and a strip of lemon peel, 
or a very little grated rind of lemon. Allow the butter to 
melt, shaking the pan to avoid burning, and then add a pint 
of milk. Cover closely and bring gently to the boil. Then 
draw the pan to the side of the fire, and simmer slowly for 
rather more than a quarter of an hour, when the rice should 
have absorbed all the milk and be perfectly tender. With- 
draw the pan from the fire, and allow the mixture to cool a 
little. Then add the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, and 
finally the whites whisked to a firm froth with a tiny pinch 
of salt and a very little lemon juice. Mix lightly but very 
thoroughly, and then form into balls about the size of a small 
tangerine. Make an aperture in each as carefully as possible 
and insert a small spoonful of either apricot jam or marmalade 
in the middle; close up neatly, then dip in egg and bread- 
crumbs. Have ready a well-greased bag, put the beignets in, 
and cook for fifteen minutes (350° Fahr.). Take out and 
serve at once. 

Pommes a la Mascotte. 

Take a dozen large apples, as nearly of a size as possible. 
Peel very thinly, and remove the cores with an apple-corer. 
Roll the apples in well-beaten egg and then in plenty of centri- 
fugal sugar. (Add a few drops of vanilla to the beaten egg.) 



288 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Arrange the apples neatly in a well-greased paper souffle case, 
put it into a bag, and bake for half an hour in a moderately 
hot oven (300° Fahr.). When done, fill the center of each 
with some sieved apricot jam. Pour a little apricot sauce 
round the base and serve at once. 

For the sauce, place three tablespoonfuls of sieved apricot 
jam in a small clean stewpan. Make very hot, then stir in a 
little well-whipped cream, and use as directed. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 289 



SOUFFLES AND SOUFFLE OMELETTES. 

General Directions. 

Molds or tins in which souffles are to be steamed or baked 
should, after being well coated with cool clarified butter, have 
a band of three or four folds of buttered paper tied round 
their rim to support the souffle when it rises above the level 
of the tin. All these preparations should be made before- 
hand, so that the mixture may not have to stand and possibly 
lose some of its lightness. The success of souffles and souffle- 
omelettes depends largely upon the whites of the eggs being 
whisked to a proper degree of stiffness. When the eggs are 
fresh, all that is necessary to ensure this is careful separa- 
tion from the yolks, the addition of a pinch of salt, and that 
the air whipped in is as cold as possible. Another important 
factor is the cooking. Souffles are lighter when steamed than 
when baked, but great care is needed to keep the water sur- 
rounding them at simmering point and yet prevent it actually 
boiling. Souffles should be served as soon as they are done, 
for if over-cooked or allowed to stand, they lose some of their 
lightness. They should be baked in a hot oven, and served 
as quickly as possible in the dish or dishes in which they are 
cooked. 

Apricot Souffle. 

Ingredients. — Twelve fresh or canned apricots, eight ounces 
of Vienna flour, four ounces of butter, four ounces of castor 
sugar, one pint of milk, six yolks of eggs, eight whites of 
eggs. 

Method. — Drain the apricots well, and pass them through 
a hair sieve. Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the milk 
(some of the milk may be replaced by apricot syrup) and cook 
over the fire until the mixture no longer adheres to the sides 
of the stewpan. Let it cool slightly, then beat in the yolks 
of eggs, add the sugar, apricot pulp, and stir in as lightly as 
possible, the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs. Have ready a 
well-buttered souffle mold, turn in the mixture and steam 
slowly from forty to forty-five minutes. Unmold and serve 
with a suitable sauce. Send to table as quickly as possible. 



290 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Chocolate Souffle. 

Ingredients. — Four ounces of finely-grated chocolate, six 
ounces of flour, four ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, 
one pint of milk, six yolks of eggs, eight whites of eggs, one 
teaspoonful of vanilla essence, custard, or other suitable sweet 
sauce. 

Method. — Place the milk and chocolate in a small stewpan 
and simmer gently until dissolved. Melt the butter, stir in 
the flour, add the chocolate mixture, and boil well. Let it 
cool a little, add the vanilla, sugar, the yolks of eggs one at 
a time, give the whole a good beating, then stir in as lightly 
as possible the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs. Turn into a 
well-buttered mold, and steam gently from forty-five to fifty 
minutes. Serve the sauce round the dish. 

Orange Souffle. 

Ingredients. — Two oranges, six ounces of cakecrumbs, six 
ounces of breadcrumbs, four ounces of castor sugar, two 
ounces of butter, four eggs, one and a half pints of milk, one 
small glass of noyeau, a few glace cherries. 

Method. — Boil the milk, pour it over the crumbs, and let 
them soak while the other ingredients are being prepared. 
Cream the butter and sugar as usual, add the yolks and two 
whites of eggs, and beat well. NoW add the rind of one 
orange, grated or finely chopped, a dessertspoonful of orange 
juice, noyeau, and the cakecrumbs. Turn the mixture into a 
buttered souffle dish, and bake from twenty-five to thirty min- 
utes in a moderately hot oven. Have ready the remaining 
white whisked to a stiff froth, spread it lightly over the surface 
of the souffle, dredge with castor sugar, and garnish with the 
cherries. Replace in the oven until the meringue acquires a 
little color, and serve. 

Prune Souffle 

Ingredients. — One pound of prunes, eight ounces of castor 
sugar, two ounces of flour, one ounce of butter, one ounce of 
almonds blanched and shredded, two lemons, six eggs. 

Method. — Wash the prunes and soak them in cold water 
for three or four hours. Then place them in a jar with the 
lemon rind pared as thinly as possible, and a little cold water, 
and cook until tender. When cold, remove the stones, and cut 
the prunes into small pieces. Cream the yolks of the eggs 
and sugar together, stir in the flour, add half of the prepared 
almonds, two teaspoonfuls of lemon juice and the prunes, and 



STANDARD COOKERY. 291 

mix well. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add 
half of it lightly to the rest of the ingredients, and pour the 
mixture into a buttered soufifie dish or pie-dish. Bake for 
about fifteen minutes in a moderate oven, then pile the re- 
mainder of the white of eggs on the top, dredge with castor 
sugar, and scatter on the almonds. Replace in the oven, bake 
from fifteen to twenty minutes longer, and serve hot. 

Raspberry Souffle. 

Ingredients. — One pound of ripe raspberries, four ounces 
of cakecrumbs or breadcrumbs, four ounces of castor sugar, 
four ounces of rice flour or cornflour, one ounce of butter, one 
gill of cream, eight eggs. 

Method. — Put the raspberries, cream, rice, flour, and sugar 
into a bowl, and reduce them to a pulp by means of a wooden 
spoon. Beat in the yolks of the eggs, add the cakecrumbs. 
stir in lightly the stifily-whisked whites of eggs, and turn the 
mixture into a well-buttered mold. Bake in a hot oven from 
twenty-five to thirty minutes, and serve as quickly as possible. 

Rice and Apple Souffle. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of sour cooking-apples, four 
ounces of ground rice, four ounces of castor sugar, two ounces 
of butter, six eggs, one and a half pints of milk, four table- 
spoonfuls of moist sugar, or to taste, the rind of one lemon, 
thinly pared, two cloves, one inch of stick cinnamon. 

Method. — Cook the apples with four tablespoonfuls of 
water, the moist sugar, butter, lemon rind, cloves, and cinna- 
mon in a jar placed in a saucepan of boiling water, and when 
soft rub them through a hair sieve. Meanwhile mix the 
ground rice smoothly with a little cold milk, boil the remainder, 
add the blended rice and milk, and simmer gently for fifteen 
minutes. Now add the sugar, let the mixture cool a little, 
then add each yolk of egg separately, give the whole a good 
beating, and lastly stir in very lightly the stiffly-whisked whites 
of eggs. Fill a well-buttered souffle dish with alternate layers 
of rice and apple puree, piling the last layer of rice in a pyra- 
midal form. Dredge well with castor sugar, and bake in a 
moderate oven for about thirty minutes. 

Apricot Fritters. 

Ingredients. — Twenty to twenty-four apricots (preserved 
fruit will do), castor sugar, ground cinnamon, frying fat. 
For the yeast batter: sixteen ounces of flour, half an ounce of 



292 STANDARD COOKERY. 

yeast, three ounces of oiled butter, milk, one teaspoonful of 
castor sugar, two pinches of salt. 

Method. — Cream the yeast smoothly with a little tepid milk, 
add four ounces of flour, mix into a light dough, and let it 
rise in a warm place. When it has risen to nearly twice its 
original size add the salt, sugar, warm butter, flowr, and as 
much tepid milk as is needed to form a light dough. Let it 
rise again, and meanwhile drain the apricots from the syrup. 
Cover the halves of the apricots completely with a thin coating 
of dough, place them on a well-buttered paper, let them remain 
near the fire for about half an hour, then fry in hot fat until 
nicely browned. Drain well, sprinkle with castor sugar and 
cinnamon, then serve. 

Banana Fritters. 

Ingredients. — Twelve firm bananas, frying batter, castor 
sugar, frying-fat. 

Method. — Cut each banana lengthwise and across, thus 
forming four portions. Coat them completely with the pre- 
pared batter, fry them in hot fat until nicely browned, and 
drain well. Sprinkle with castor sugar, and serve. 

Beetroot Fritters. 

Ingredients. — Two large cooked beetroots, six yolks of eggs, 
two tablespoonfuls of flour, sugar to taste, one teaspoonful of 
lemon rind, two good pinches of nutmeg, frying batter, frying- 
fat. 

Method. — Pass the beetroot through a fine sieve, sprinkle 
in the flour, add the yolks of eggs, lemon rind, and nutmeg, 
and sweeten to taste. Stir over a slow fire for ten minutes, 
and put aside until cold. Drop the mixture in dessertspoon- 
fuls into the batter, drain slightly, and fry in hot fat until crisp 
and lightly browned. Drain well, and serve dredged with cas- 
tor sugar. Another variety of fritters is prepared with cooked 
beetroots thickly sliced, coated with sweet or savory batter, and 
fried as directed above. 

Croquettes of Fruit. 

Ingredients. — One and a half pounds of cooking cherries, 
damsons or plums, three pounds of savory biscuits or Genoese 
cake finely crumbled, eight ounces of sugar, two teaspoonfuls 
of finely-grated lemon rind, two good pinches of cinnamon, 
eggs and breadcrumbs, frying-fat. 

Method. — Stone the fruit, place it in a jar with the sugar, 



STANDARD COOKERY. 293 

and stew gently until tender. Strain off the juice, stir in the 
cakecrumbs, lemon rind and cinnamon, add juice gradually 
until the right consistency is obtained, then spread on a dish 
to cool. Form into cork-shaped pieces, coat carefully with 
egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned 
(breadcrumbs may be used instead of cakecrumbs). Serve 
garnished with strips of angelica. 

Cornflour or Cornmeal Fritters. 

Ingredients. — Eight heaped tablespoonfuls of cornflour or 
cornmeal, four eg^s well-beaten, one pint of milk, one salt- 
spoonful of salt, frying-fat. 

Method. — Mix the ingredients smoothly together, drop the 
batter, a tablespoonful at a time, into hot fat, and fry until 
crisp and lightly browned. Drain well, and serve with jelly, 
jam, or compote of fruit. 

Custard Fritters. 

Ingredients. — Two tablespoonfuls of cornflour, two table- 
spoonfuls of fine flour, four tablespoonfuls of castor sugar, 
four yolks of eggs, one pint of milk, two saltspoonfuls of salt, 
vanilla essence, eggs and breadcrumbs, frying-fat. 

Method. — Mix the flour and cornflour smoothly with a lit- 
tle milk, boil up the remainder, and pour it over the flour, 
stirring meanwhile. Replace in the stewpan, simmer gently 
for four minutes, add the sugar and salt, and stir in the yolks 
of eggs. Cook gently for a few minutes, add a few drops of 
vanilla essence, and spread the mixture on a dish to the depth 
of half an inch. When cold, cut into small rounds, coat them 
carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until 
lightly browned. Serve with wine or jam sauce. 
Fried Puffs, 

{See Souffle Fritters.) 

Indian Fritters. 

Ingredients. — Six tablespoonfuls of flour, the yolks of eight 
eggs, the whites of four eggs, jam or jelly, frying-fat. 

Method. — Stir into the flour sufficient boiling water (about 
one gill) to form a stiff smooth paste. Let it cool, then break 
in the eggs, and beat thoroughly. Fill a dessertspoonful with 
the mixture, form a cavity, fill it with jam or jelly, and after- 
wards cover completely with the mixture. Fry in hot fat, 
drain well, and serve immediately. 

Rice Fritters. 

Ingredients. — Six ounces of rice, three ounces of sugar, 



294 STANDARD COOKERY. 

one ounce of butter, six ounces of orange marmalade, four 
eggs, three pints of milk, frying-batter, frying-fat. 

Method. — Simmer the rice in the milk until the whole of 
it is absorbed, add the sugar, butter, marmalade and eggs, and 
stir over the fire for a few minutes. Spread the mixture on 
a dish to the thickness of half an inch, and when cold, cut it 
into strips or squares. Dip these in batter, fry in hot fat until 
crisp, drain well, then serve. 

Souffle Fritters. 

. Ingredients. — Choux paste, frying-fat, castor sugar. 

Method. — Prepare the paste as directed, drop teaspoonful 
of it into hot fat, and fry rather slowly until crisp and lightly 
browned. Drain well, dredge with castor sugar and serve. 

Spanish Fritters. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of flour, one ounce of yeast, 
two eggs, milk, four ounces of butter warmed, two saltspoon- 
fuls of salt, frying-fat. 

Method. — Moisten the yeast with a little lukewarm water, 
add the eggs, and stir into the flour. Sprinkle in the salt, mix 
and beat well, adding milk gradually until a very light dough 
is formed, then cover and set aside in a warm place to rise 
for two or three hours. When ready, work in the butter, 
shape the dough into small balls, and fry in hot fat, until crisp 
and lightly browned. Serve with sweet sauce. 



STANDARD COOKERY. i295 



JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, FRUIT, 
PICKLES. 

Preparation of Molds. 
Molds, whether intended for creams or jellies, should be 
thoroughly clean, and when possible rinsed with cold water 
before being used. In preparing them for decorated creams, 
they are usually coated with a thin layer of jelly. To do this 
quickly and satisfactorily it is necessary that the molds should 
be quite dry, perfectly cold, and the jelly on the point of set- 
ting when put into the mold, which is turned over and over 
until thinly, but completely coated. The decoration is a mat- 
ter of taste; it may consist of pistachio, shredded or finely 
chopped, almonds, glace cherries, etc., and may afford no in- 
dication of the composition of the cream. But just as fre- 
quently the decoration consists of fancifully cut pieces of the 
fruit, which reduced to a puree forms the basis of the cream. 
This branch of cookery affords almost unlimited scope for 
display of artistic taste. Success in this direction depends 
largely on a suitable combination of contrasting or harmonising 
colors, and the decoration being neat and uniformly disposed. 
Each section of the mold must be decorated separately, and 
the decoration fixed firmly by means of a little cool jelly, 
which must be allowed to set before changing the position of 
the mold. For this reason the process is a slow one unless the 
mold meanwhile rests upon and is surrounded by ice. With- 
out this aid the task is almost an impossible one in hot weather. 

Freezing Mixture. 
The materials usually employed for this purpose are ice, 
and coarse salt, or freezing salt, the correct proportions being 
one pound of salt to seven or eight pounds of ice. More salt 
than this is often added with a view to making the mixture 
freeze more quickly, which it does for a short time, but the 
large proportion of salt causes the ice to speedily melt, and the 
freezing operation comes to a standstill unless the ice is fre- 
quently renewed. The ice tub, or outer compartment of the 
freezing machine, must be filled with alternate layers of crushed 
ice and salt. A good layer of ice at the bottom of the tub 



296 STANDARD COOKERY. 

enables the freezing pot to turn more easily and more quickly 
than if it were placed on the bare wood. 

Varieties of Ices. 
Ices may be broadly divided into two classes, viz., cream ices 
and water ices. The former are sometimes composed almost 
entirely of cream, sweetened, flavored and elaborated in a num- 
ber of ways, but more frequently the so-called " cream ice " 
consists principally of custard, more or less rich according to 
respective requirements, with the addition of fruit pulp, 
crystallized fruit, almonds, chocolate, coffee, liquors, and other 
flavoring ingredients. Water ices are usually prepared from 
the juices of fresh fruit mixed with syrup, fruit syrup, or jam, 
sieved and diluted with water or syrup. In addition to these, 
there are the demi-glace or half-frozen compounds, now 
largely introduced into high-class menus under the names of 
sorbet, granite or granito, and punch. This variety is always 
served immediately before the roast, and always in small por- 
tions in sorbet cups or glass, never molded; and alcoholic 
liquors are more or less used in their preparation. Parfaits, 
mousses, and soufiles differ from ordinary ices, inasmuch as the 
cream preparation is at once molded and placed on ice, thus 
omitting the ordinary preliminary freezing process. In these, 
as in dessert ices, new combinations and molds of original 
design for their use are being constantly introduced, but as 
the principal constituents of the preparations remain unchanged, 
they present no difficulty to those who understand the general 
principles of ice making. 

JELLIES. 

Jellies are made of cooked fruit juice and sugar, in nearly 
all cases the proportions being equal. Where failures occur, 
it is generally due to the use of too ripe fruit. 

To Prepare Glasses for Jelly. — Wash glasses and place 
in a saucepan of cold water; place on range, and heat water 
gradually to boiling-point. Remove glasses, and drain. Place 
glasses while filling on a cloth wrung out of hot water. 

To Cover Jelly Glasses. — Cut Soyer paper bags in circular 
pieces just to fit in top' of glasses. Dip in brandy, and cover 
jelly. Put on tin covers or circular pieces of paper cut larger 
than the glasses, and fastened securely over the edge with 
mucilage. Some prefer to cover jelly with melted paraffin, 
then to adjust covers. 

To Make a Jelly Bag. — Fold two opposite corners of a 



STANDARD COOKERY. 297 

piece of cotton and wool flannel three-fourths of a yard long. 
Sew up in the form of a cornucopia, rounding at the end. 
Fell the seam to make more secure. Bind the top with tape, 
and furnish with two or three strong loops by which it may 
be hung. 

Calves' Feet Jelly, 

Take five pounds of shin of beef, and soak for six hours in 
cold water. 

Take also four calves' feet, split in two, and blanch for 
three minutes in boiling water. Place the beef and calves' 
feet in a stewpan, cover well with water and slowly boil for 
five hours. If necessary the strength of the jelly may be in- 
creased by the addition of half a bullock's foot, blanched as 
above, but usually the calves' feet alone are strong enough. 
While boiling keep skimming and see that the pot is always 
kept quite full with boiling water, otherwise it is impossible 
to extract all the nutriment from the meat. In ordinary house- 
holds this is rarely understood for it is a point seldom taught. 
When quite boiled, strain off the liquor by passing through a 
muslin strainer into a large bowl. Place this in a cool place 
where air can pass all round. Next day skim off the fat which 
will be found floating above the jelly. This done, a piece of 
paper laid on top of the jelly will absorb any fat left after 
skimming. 

The jelly is now ready for use as required. If a sweet 
jelly is desired, dissolve one pound of sugar, and, with the 
juice of six lemons, add to the stock together with a good- 
sized glass of Madeira. 

Aspic Jelly. 

Suitable for decoration of cold entree, etc. Procure a quar- 
ter of a pound of gelatine and soak in cold water until soft. 
Now place four quarts of white stock in a six-quart stewpan. 
To this add one or two chicken carcases cut up small (this is 
optional), add color and salt to taste. When the stock is hot, 
add to it the swollen gelatine which will then melt. 

Now pass two pounds of gravy beef through mincer; put 
mince into a bowl, add the whites of two eggs and squeeze 
into the meat until the whole is compacted. Put this into the 
stewpan with the stock, stirring it in well. Now add a little 
shredded onion, thyme and bay-leaves, one teaspoonful of pep- 
percorn, six coriander seeds, and a morsel of celery, and bring 
to a boil. 



298 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Take off fire and allow to boil slowly for ten minutes. Now 
cover stewpan and leave in a hot place for twenty minutes to 
allow the mixture quietly to settle. Now carefully pour off 
the clear liquid through a very clean flannel or muslin into a 
bowl. Next morning skim off fat floating at the top; the rest 
of the liquor will now set into jelly, and may be used as re- 
quired. To prevent this jelly from going bad it should be 
boiled every day, the surface being cleared of scum and froth 
by passing over it a sheet of clean paper. 

Madeira is added as required, but must not be mixed with 
jelly stock, otherwise fermentation will be set up and the 
flavor deteriorate. 

Apple Jelly. 

Wipe apples, remove stem and blossom ends, and cut in 
quarters. Put in a granite or porcelain-lined preserving ket- 
tle, and add cold water to come nearly to top of apples. Cover, 
and cook slowly until apples are soft; mash, and drain through 
a coarse sieve. Avoid squezzing apples, which makes the jelly 
cloudy. Then allow juice to drip through a double thickness 
of cheese-cloth or a jelly bag. Boil twenty minutes, add an 
equal quantity of heated sugar; boil five minutes, skim, and 
turn into glasses. Put in a sunny window, and let stand 
twenty-four hours. Cover, and keep in a cool, dry place. 
Porter apples make a delicious flavored jelly. If apples are 
pared, a much lighter jelly may be made. Gravenstein apples 
make a very spicy jelly. 

To Heat Sugar. — Put in a granite dish, place in oven leav- 
ing oven door ajar, and stir occasionally. 

Quince Jelly. 

Follow recipe for apple jelly, using quinces in place of apples, 
and removing seeds from fruit. Quince parings are often 
used for jelly, the better part of the fruit being used for bot- 
tling. 

Crab Apple Jelly. 

Follow recipe for apple jelly, leaving apples whole instead 
of cutting in quarters. 

Currant Jelly. 
Currants are in the best condition for making jelly between 
June 28 and July 3, and should not be picked in dry weather. 
Cherry currants make the best jelly. Equal proportions of 
red and white currants are considered desirable, and make a 
lighter-colored jelly. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 299 

Pick over currants, but do not remove stems ; wash and 
drain. Mash a few in the bottom of a preserving kettle, using 
a wooden potato masher; so continue until berries are used. 
Cook slowly until currants look white. Strain through a 
coarse strainer, then allow juice to drop through a double 
thickness of cheese-cloth or a jelly bag. Measure, bring to 
boiling-point, and boil five minutes; add an equal measure of 
heated sugar, boil three minutes, skim, and pour into glasses. 
Place in a sunny window, and let stand twenty-four hours. 
Cover, and keep in a cool, dry place. 

Currant and Raspberry Jelly. 

Follow recipe for currant jelly, using equal parts of currants 
and raspberries. 

Blackberry Jelly. 
Follow recipe for currant jelly, using blackberries in place 
of currants. 

Raspberry Jelly. 

Follow recipe for currant jelly, using raspberries in place 
of currants. Raspberry jelly is the most critical to make, and 
should not be attempted if fruit is full ripe, or if it has been 
long picked. 

Barberry Jelly. 

Barberry jelly is firmer and of better color if made from 
fruit picked before the frost comes, while some of the berries 
are still green. Make same as currant jelly, allowing one 
cup water to one peck barberries. 

Grape Jelly. 

Grapes should be picked over, washed and stems removed 
before putting into a preserving kettle. Heat to boiling-point, 
mash, and boil thirty minutes; then proceed as for currant jelly. 
Wild grapes make the best jelly. 

Green Grape Jelly. 

Grapes should be picked when just beginning to turn. Make 
same as grape jelly. 

Jelly for Venison. 

One peck wild grapes, one quart vinegar, a quarter cup each 
of whole cloves and stick cinnamon ; six pounds sugar. 

Put first four ingredients into a preserving kettle, heat 
slowly to the boiling-point, and cook until grapes are soft. 
Strain through a double thickness of cheese-cloth or a jelly 



300 STANDARD COOKERY. 

bag, and boil liquid twenty minutes; then add sugar heated, 
and boil five minutes. Turn into glasses. 

Damson Jelly. 

Wipe and pick over damsons ; then prick several times with 
a large pin. Make same as currant jelly, using three-fourths 
as much sugar as fruit juice. 

JAMS. 

Raspberries and blackberries are the fruits most often em- 
ployed for making jams, and require equal weight of sugar 
and fruit. 

Raspberry Jam. 

Pick over raspberries. Mash a few in the bottom of a pre- 
serving kettle, using a wooden potato masher, and so continue 
until the fruit is used. Heat slowly to boiling-point, and 
add gradually an equal quantity of heated sugar. Cook slowly 
forty-five minutes. Put in a stone jar or tumblers. 

Blackberry Jam. 

Follow recipe for raspberry jam, using blackberries in place 
of raspberries. 

Grape Marmalade. 
Pick over, wash, drain, and remove stems from grapes. 
Separate pulp from skins. Put pulp in preserving kettle. Heat 
to boiling-point, and cook slowly until seeds separate from 
pulp; then rub through a hair sieve. Return to kettle with 
skins, add an equal measure of sugar, and cook slowly thirty 
minutes, occasionally stirring to prevent burning. Put in a 
stone jar or tumblers. 

Quince Marmalade. 
Wipe quinces, remove blossom ends, cut in quarters, remove 
seeds; then cut in small pieces. Put into a preserving kettle, 
and add enough water to nearly cover. Cook slowly for 
twenty minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. 

Orange Marmalade. 

To every dozen Seville oranges use two lemons. Take 
a cloth and rub each fruit to remove all dirt, then divide into 
quarters. Take pulp and juice (leaving the peel quite free) 
and put into a bowl. In doing this remove all pips. Then 
cut the peel very finely into shreds and put with pulp and juice. 
After all are cut, weigh, and to every pound of shreds, pulp 
and juice put three pints of cold water. Let this stand for 



STANDARD COOKERY. 301 

twenty-four hours, then boil it till shreds of peel become soft 
and almost transparent. Generally an hour's good boiling will 
be sufficient. Then let it stand another twenty-four hours, 
after which weigh again, and to every pound use one and a 
quarter pounds of sugar. Then boil for about half an hour 
after it has boiled up, stirring to prevent burning. It is better 
to boil quickly as color and flavor are thereby preserved. If 
not certain as to the marmalade being sufficiently boiled, take 
a little on a plate and set to cool. If it jellies then it is done. 
Take pan from the stove and pour marmalade into pots and 
tie down securely. 

Orange Marmalade. (Another Method.) 
Select sour, smooth-skinned oranges, usually at their best at 
end of January and during February. Weigh oranges and 
allow three-fourths their weight in cut sugar. Remove peel 
from oranges in quarters. Cook peel until soft in enough boil- 
ing water to cover; drain, remove white part from peel by 
scraping it with a spoon. Cut this yellow rind in strips, using 
a sharp knife. This is more quickly accomplished by cutting 
through two or three pieces at a time. Divide oranges in sec- 
tions, remove seeds and tough part of the skin. Put into a 
preserving kettle and heat to boiling-point, add sugar grad- 
ually, and cook slowly one hour; add rind, and cook one hour 
longer. Turn into glasses. 

Orange Marmalade. (Another Method.) 
Slice nine oranges and six lemons crosswise with a sharp 
knife as thinly as possible, remove seeds, and put in a preserv- 
ing kettle with four quarts water. Cover, and let stand thirty- 
six hours; then boil for two hours, add eight pounds sugar, 
and boil one hour longer. 

Orange and Rhubarb Marmalade. 
Remove peel in quarters from eight oranges and prepare as 
for orange marmalade. Divide oranges in sections, remove 
seeds and tough part of skin. Put into a preserving kettle, 
add five pounds rhubarb, skinned and cut in one-half inch 
pieces. Heat to boiling-point, and boil one-half hour; then add 
four pounds cut sugar and cut rind. Cook slowly two hours. 
Turn into glasses. 

Quince Honey. 
Pare and grate five large quinces. To one pint boiling 
water add five pounds sugar. Stir over fire until sugar is 



302 STANDARD COOKERY. 

dissolved, add quinces and cook fifteen or twenty minutes. 
Turn into glasses. When cold it should be about the color 
and consistency of honey. 

CANNING AND PRESERVING. 

Preserving fruit is cooking it with from three-fourths to 
its whole weight of sugar. By so doing, much of the natural 
flavor of the fruit is destroyed; therefore canning is usually 
preferred to preserving. 

Canning fruit is preserving sterilized fruit in sterilized air- 
tight jars, the sugar being added to give sweetness. Fruits 
may be canned without sugar if perfectly sterilized, that is, 
freed from all germ life. 

Directions for Preserving. 

Fruit for preserving should be fresh, firm, of good quality, 
and not over-ripe ; if over-ripe, some of the spores may survive 
the boiling, then fermentation will take place in a short time. 

For preserving fruit, allow one-third its weight in sugar, and 
two and one-half to three cups water to each pound of sugar. 
Boil sugar and water ten minutes to make a thin syrup ; then 
cook a small quantity of the fruit at a time in the syrup; by 
so doing, fruit may be kept in perfect shape. Hard fruits, 
like pineapple and quince, are cooked in boiling water until 
nearly soft, then put in syrup to finish cooking. Sterilized 
jars are then filled with fruit, and enough syrup added to over- 
flow jars. If there is not sufficient syrup, add boiling water, 
as jars must be filled to overflow. Introduce a spoon between 
fruit and jar, that air bubbles may rise to the top and break; 
then quickly put on rubbers and screw on sterilized covers. 
Let stand until cold, again screw covers, being sure this time 
that jars are air-tight. When filling jars, place them on a 
cloth wrung out of hot water. 

To Sterilize Jars. 

Wash jars and fill with cold water. Set in a kettle on a 
trivet and surround with cold water. Heat gradually to boil- 
ing-point, remove from water, empty, and fill while hot. Put 
covers in hot water, but do not allow them to stand. New rub- 
bers should be used each season, and care must be taken that 
rims of covers are not bent, as jars cannot then be hermet- 
ically sealed. 

Preserved Peaches. 

Wipe peaches and put in boiling water, allowing them to 



STANDARD COOKERY. 303 

stand just long enough to easily loosen skins. Remove skins 
and cook fruit at once, that it may not discolor, following di- 
rections for preserving. Some prefer to pare peaches, sprinkle 
with sugar, and let stand over night. In morning, drain, add 
water to fruit syrup, bring to boiling-point, and then cook 
fruit. Peaches may be cut in halves, or smaller pieces if de- 
sired. 

Preserved Pears. 
Wipe and pare fruit. Cook whole with stems left on, or 
remove stems, cut in quarters and core. Follow directions 
for preserving. A small piece of ginger root or a few slicings 
of lemon rind may be cooked with syrup. Bartlett pears are 
the best for canning. 

Preserved Pineapples. 
Remove skin and eyes from pineapples ; then cut in half- 
inch slices or in cubes, at the same time discarding the core. 
Follow directions for preserving. Pineapples may be shredded 
and cooked in one-half their weight of sugar without water, 
and then put in jars. When put up in this way they are useful 
for the makings of sherbets and fancy desserts. 

Preserved Quinces. 

Wipe, quarter, core and pare quinces. Follow directions for 
preserving. Quinces may be cooked with an equal weight of 
sweet apples wiped, quartered, cored and pared; in this case 
use no extra sugar for apples. 

Preserved Cherries. 

Use large white or red cherries. Wash, remove stems, then 
follow directions for preserving. 

Preserved Huckleberries. 

Pick over and wash berries, then put in a preserving kettle 
with a small quantity of water to prevent berries from burning. 
Cook until soft, stirring occasionally, and put in jars. No 
sugar is required, but a sprinkling of salt is an agreeable ad- 
dition. 

Preserved Rhubarb. 

Pare rhubarb and cut in one inch pieces. Pack in a jar, 
put under cold water tap, and let water run twenty minutes, 
then screw on cover. Rhubarb preserved in this way has often 
been known to keep a year. 

Preserved Tomatoes. 
Wipe tomatoes, cover with boiling water, and let stand until 



304 STANDARD COOKERY. 

skins may be easily removed. Cut in pieces and cook until 
thoroughly scalded; skim often during cooking. Fill jars, fol- 
lowing directions given. 

Damson Preserves. 
Wipe damsons with a piece of cheese-cloth wrung out of 
cold water, and prick each fruit five or six times, using a large 
needle ; then weigh. Make a syrup by boiling three-fourths 
their weight in sugar with water, allowing one cup to each 
pound of sugar. As soon as syrup reaches boiling-point, skim, 
and add plums, a few at a time, that fruit may better keep in 
shape during cooking. Cook until soft. It is well to use two 
kettles, that work may be more quickly done, and syrup need 
not cook too long a time. Put into glass or stone jars. 

Strawberry Preserves. 

Pick over, wash, drain, and dry strawberries; then weigh. 
Fill glass jars with berries. Make a syrup the same as for 
damson preserve, cooking the syrup fifteen minutes. Add 
syrup so as to overflow jars; let stand fifteen minutes, when 
fruit will have shrunk, and more fruit must be added to fill 
jars. Screw on covers, put on a trivet in a kettle of cold 
water, heat water to boiling-point, and keep just below boiling- 
point one hour. 

Raspberries may be preserved in the same way. 

Raspberry and Currant Preserve. 

Six pounds currants, six pounds sugar, eight quarts rasp- 
berries. 

Pick over, wash, and drain currants. Put into a preserving 
kettle, adding a few at a time, and mash. Cook one hour, 
strain through double thickness of cheese-cloth. Return to 
kettle, add sugar, heat to boiling-point, and cook slowly twenty 
minutes. Add one quart raspberries when syrup again reaches 
boiling-point, skim out raspberries, put in jar, and repeat until 
raspberries are used. Fill jars to overflowing with syrup, and 
screw on tops. 

Brandied Peaches. 

One peck peaches, half their weight in sugar, one quart high- 
proof alcohol or brandy. 

Remove skins from peaches, and put alternate layers of 
peaches and sugar in a stone jar; then add alcohol. Cover 
closely, having a heavy piece of cloth under cover of jar. 
Tutti Frutti. 

Put one pint brandy into a stone jar, add the various fruits 



STANDARD COOKERY. 305 

as they come into market; to each quart of fruit add the same 
quantity of sugar, and stir the mixture each morning until all 
the fruit has been added. Raspberries, strawberries, apricots, 
peaches, cherries, and pineapples are the best to use. 

Preserved Red Peppers. 
Wash one peck red peppers, cut a slice from stem end of 
each, and remove seeds; then cut in thin strips by working 
around and around the peppers, using scissors or a sharp veg- 
etable knife. Cover with boiling water, let stand two minutes, 
drain, and plunge into ice-water. Let stand ten minutes, again 
drain, and pack solidly into pint glass jars. Boil one quart 
vinegar and two cups sugar fifteen minutes. Pour this over 
peppers, so as to overflow jars, cover, and keep in a cold place. 

Preserved Melon Rind. 
Pare and cut in strips the rind of ripe melons. Soak in 
alum water to cover, allowing two teaspoonfuls of powdered 
alum to each quart of water. Heat gradually to boiling-point 
and cook slowly ten minutes. Drain, cover with ice-water, 
and let stand two hours ; drain again, and dry between towels. 
Weigh, allow one pound sugar to each pound of fruit, and one 
cup of water to each pound of sugar. Boil sugar and water 
ten minutes. Add melon rind, and cook until tender. Remove 
rind to a stone jar and cover with syrup. Two lemons cut 
in slices may be cooked for ten minutes in the syrup and add to 
the flavor. 

Tomato Preserve. 

Two pounds Yellow Pear tomatoes, two pounds sugar, four 
ounces preserved Canton ginger, four lemons. 

Wipe tomatoes, cover with boiling water, and let stand until 
skins may be easily removed. Add sugar, cover, and let stand 
over night. In the morning pour off syrup and boil until quite 
thick; skim, then add tomatoes, ginger, and lemons which have 
been sliced and the seeds removed. Cook until tomatoes have 
a clarified appearance. 

PICKLING. 

Pickling is preserving in any salt or acid liquor. 

Spiced Currants. 

Fourteen pounds currants, ten pounds brown sugar, six ta- 
blespoonfuls cinnamon, six tablespoonfuls clove, two pints vine- 
gar. 

Pick over currants, wash, drain, and remove stems. Put 



3o6 STANDARD COOKERY. 

in a preserving kettle, add sugar, vinegar, and spices tied in a 
piece of muslin. Heat to boiling-point, and cook slowly one 
and one-half hours. Store in a stone jar and keep in a cool 
place. Spiced currants are a delicious accompaniment to cold 
meat. 

Sweet Pickled Peaches. 

One peck peaches, four pounds brown sugar; two pints vine- 
gar, two ounces stick cinnamon, cloves. 

Boil sugar, vinegar and cinnamon twenty minutes. Dip 
peaches quickly in hot water, then rub off the fur with a towel. 
Stick each peach with four cloves. Put into syrup and cook 
until soft, using one-half peaches at a time. 

Sweet Pickled Pears. 

Follow recipe for sweet pickled peaches, using pears in place 
of peaches. 

Chili Sauce. 

Twenty-four medium-sized ripe tomatoes, two peppers, 
finely chopped, two onions, finely chopped, four cupfuls vinegar, 
six tablespoonfuls sugar; two tablespoonfuls salt, four tea- 
spoonfuls cloves, four teaspoonfuls cinnamon, four teaspoon- 
fuls allspice, four teaspoonfuls grated nutmeg. 

Peel tomatoes and slice. Put in a preserving kettle with 
remaining ingredients. Heat gradually to boiling-point, and 
cook slowly two and one-half hours. 

Ripe Tomato Pickle. 

Six pints tomatoes, peeled and chopped, two cups chopped 
celery, eight tablespoonfuls chopped red peppers, eight table- 
spoonfuls chopped onion, eight tablespoonfuls salt, twelve table- 
spoonfuls sugar, twelve tablespoonfuls m'ustard seed, one 
teaspoonful clove, one teaspoonful cinnamon, two teaspoonfuls 
grated nutmeg, four cups vinegar. 

Mix ingredients in order given. Put in a stone jar and 
cover. This uncooked mixture must stand a week before using, 
but may be kept a year. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 307 



CHEESE DISHES. 

Welsh Rarebit. 

Slice down some good rich cheese rather thinly into a very- 
clean stewpan with a quarter its weight of butter, and two 
or three spoonfuls of porter, good ale, or new milk, as you 
please, and according to the quantity of the cheese; flavor to 
taste with freshly-ground black pepper and dry English mus- 
tard. Stir over the fire until all is thoroughly melted and of a 
thick creamy consistency ; pour it over hot buttered toast, which 
has been placed in a hot tin or a fireproof dish ; brown the 
surface in the oven or not, as you like, but make very hot, and 
serve at once. 

This requires careful watching, because if it be in the least 
overcooked it will be leathery. It should be served directly it 
is ready. 

Baked Cheese Sandwiches. 

Cut some slices of good rich cheese, about a third of an inch 
thick, season lightly with freshly-ground black pepper and a 
drop or two of tarragon vinegar; then place them between two 
slices of brown bread and butter ; trim these neatly and set 
them in the oven, serving directly the bread is toasted. 

Parmesan Puffs. 

Mix four and a half ounces of breadcrumbs, four ounces of 
Parmesan cheese, two ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of 
cayenne pepper and salt, and two eggs; pound these all thor- 
oughly in a mortar, bind them with a well-beaten egg, shape 
into balls about the size of a walnut, egg and breadcrumb them 
and fry a golden brown in plenty of boiling fat. Drain well, 
and serve at once very hot, garnished with parsley. 

Parmesan Eggs. 
Take a flat fireproof dish and put into it the yolks of two 
eggs, a small pat of butter, some spice, and a tablespoonful of 
finely-grated Parmesan cheese. Stir over the stove. Then 
break into it five or six eggs and sprinkle the whole with grated 
cheese. Brown and serve. 

Cheese Pie. 
Place one pint of milk in a saucepan and let it become hot, 
then pour it on to one tablespoonful of ground rice, previously 



3o8 STANDARD COOKERY. 

mixed with a little cold milk, return to the pan and stir until 
the mixture thickens. Remove the pan from the fire and add 
four ounces of finely-grated cheese, a pinch of salt and cayenne, 
the yolks of two eggs, and two ounces of butter. Mix all well 
together, and then add the beaten whites of the eggs. Butter 
a pie-dish, and pour the mixture into it, and bake in a moderate 
oven for twenty minutes. Sprinkle grated cheese over the top 
before serving. 

Cheese Patties. 
Line some patty-pans with cheese pastry, and fill them three 
parts full with the following mixture: Place two ounces of 
finely-grated breadcrumbs in a bowl, and mix into them one 
raw egg and a tablespoonful of milk; then add two tablespoon- 
fuls of finely-grated cheese, and two teaspoonfuls of butter, 
one teaspoonful of made mustard, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
and the same of pepper. Mix very well. Place the patties in 
the oven and bake until a pale brown. The mixture will swell 
slightly in baking. Serve very hot. 

Cheese Custard Pudding. 

Put two ounces of finely-grated cheese into a bowl, and add 
to it two well-beaten eggs and three-quarters of a pint of milk. 
Trim the edge of a pie-dish with cheese pastry, and pour in 
the mixture. Place two or three pieces of butter on the top, 
and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes. 

Cheese Croutons. 

Take six rounds of bread, three-quarters inch thick and 
about the size of a five-shilling piece, fry them a golden brown 
color, sprinkle thinly over them a dust of dry mustard, a layer 
of grated cheese, salt and pepper to taste. Place them in a 
quick oven until the cheese is cooked, then place a spoonful of 
hot rice on each, garnish with capers, and serve very hot. 
Cheese Canapes. 

Grate two ounces of cheese and mix it smoothly in a bowl 
with a dessertspoonful of mustard, the same of anchovy sauce, 
a shake of cayenne, a pinch of salt, a dessertspoonful of an- 
chovy vinegar, a tablespoonful of fresh butter, and the yolks 
of two hard-boiled eggs. Mix this until it is a smooth paste, 
then spread it on rounds of buttered white or brown bread. 
Chop the whites of the eggs finely, or press them through a 
sieve on the paste. Serve cold. 

Little Cheese Custards. 

Grate finely three and a half ounces of cheese and mix it 



STANDARD COOKERY. 309 

with one egg, add quarter of a pint of boiling milk, pour the 
mixture into small fireproof dishes, and bake from ten to fifteen 
minutes. Serve very hot. 

Cheese and Macaroni Tartlets. 
Line the required number of tartlet pans with cheese pastry 
(see recipe). Boil one ounce of macaroni in just as much 
water as it will absorb. When soft, cut it into tiny pieces, 
mix with one ounce of finely-grated cheese, a pinch of salt, a 
pinch of cayenne, and bind the mixture with a little cream or 
cheese sauce. Bake for ten minutes and serve hot. 

Cheese and Egg Toast. 

Boil two eggs hard, pound them in the mortar with enough 
cream to make them into a paste, season with pepper and salt, 
and mix in a tablespoonful of grated cheese. Toast a round of 
bread from a tin loaf, cut off the crust, butter it, and cut into 
six pieces, spread each piece thinly with anchovy paste, pile 
the egg mixture on the top, and cover with breadcrumbs, and 
a tiny bit of butter on each piece; place in the oven to get hot, 
and serve. 

Anchovy Custards on Toast. 

Make some rounds or squares of buttered toast, and keep 
them hot. Put a piece of butter about the size of a large fil- 
bert into a small enamel saucepan ; when melted, pour in a 
teaspoonful of anchovy essence, salt and pepper to taste, and 
mix well. When thick and creamy pour over the toast, and 
serve very hot. 

Cheese Pastry (Hot or Cold). 

Two ounces of Parmesan cheese, a saltspoonful of coralline 
pepper, half a pound of flour, two ounces of butter, the yolk 
of one egg, beaten up with sufficient water to mix the ingre- 
dients into a paste. Rub the butter into the flour and other 
dry ingredients, add the mixed egg and water. Roll out once 
only. 

Cheese Creams in Cases (Hot or Cold). 

Take two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, flavor with white 
pepper and cayenne, and pound with cream to a smooth paste. 
If required hot, place a spoonful on each pastry case, make 
very hot and sprinkle with coralline pepper. If cold, whip the 
paste and garnish with yolk of egg rubbed through a sieve, 
one portion left yellow, the other colored pink with carmine. 

Pastry for Cheese Straws and Biscuits (Hot or Cold). 

A rich and short pastry is required for these savories. Pro- 



310 STANDARD COOKERY. 

ceed as follows: — Three ounces of grated cheese, three ounces 
of butter, four ounces of flour, the yolk of one egg. Salt and 
cayenne. Knead well, but lightly, and roll quickly to the de- 
sired thickness. For biscuits or straws, bake in a quick oven 
for about ten minutes. 

Cheese Straws (Hot or Cold). 

Roll out the pastry and cut out into strips about three to 
four inches long by one-third of an inch wide. When baked, 
pile neatly one on top of the other, or twist the pastry strips 
and tie into little bundles with a twist of pastry, and bake. 

Cheese Biscuits. 

Stamp out all of one size, and serve either hot or cold, us- 
ing the same mixture as for cheese straws. 

Cheese Tartlets. 
Prepare eight tiny tartlet cases of cheese pastry. Put one 
ounce of butter, and one dessertspoonful of water in a sauce- 
pan, and bring to the boil. Stir in sufficient very fine bread- 
crumbs to make a stiff mixture, and then beat in the yolk of 
an egg. Add pepper and salt, cayenne, and four tablespoon- 
fuls of finely grated cheese. Stir well over the fire. Fill the 
tartlet cases with this mixture, and arrange a cross of filleted 
anchovy cut into strips on each, and scatter the four divisions 
thus formed, two with grated egg yolk, and two with coralline 
pepper. Serve very hot. Cases of fried bread may be used in- 
stead of pastry cases. 

Cheese Cream Tartlets. 

Make eight tartlet cases of cheese pastry, keep hot. Take 
four tablespoonfuls of finely-grated cheese, a little salt and 
white pepper, and mix it into the same quantity of cream. 
Whip all well together and fill the tartlet cases, arranging the 
cream in a pyramid. Keep back a little of the cream mixture, 
tint it pale green and pipe it round the edge of the tartlet cases 
in little round dots. Serve cold. 

Cheese PufFets. 

Mix together three ounces of grated cheese, one tablespoon- 
ful of flour, one egg, one teacupful of milk, a pinch of salt; 
place in ramakin dishes, and bake for ten minutes. Serve hot. 
Cheese Zephyrs. 

Measure half a pint of milk and dissolve in it a quarter 
ounce of gelatine (four sheets of white leaf gelatine) ; warm 
the milk and when the gelatine is dissolved, strain the milk 



STANDARD COOKERY. 311 

into a clean pan, add two ounces of grated cheese, and stir 
over a fire for a few minutes ; add salt and pepper to taste. 
Take off the fire and when a little cool, add quarter of a pint 
of whipped cream. Put into small molds and let it set. Turn 
out and garnish the top of each mold alternately, with coral- 
line pepper and sieved yolk of egg. This must be served cold. 

Savory Cheese Pancakes. 
Put a quarter of a pound of flour into a bowl, add a pinch 
of salt to it and dust of cayenne; whisk two eggs and pour 
them gradually into the flour, mixing it well with a wooden 
spoon, then add by degrees half a pint of milk, working the 
batter until it is perfectly smooth ; cover the bowl with a cloth 
and let the batter stand for an hour. Just before using stir 
one and a half tablespoonfuls of grated cheese into the pan- 
cake mixture, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of baking-powder. 
Put a small omelette-pan on, the stove (where the heat is 
steady) with a piece of dripping in it, rather larger than a big 
walnut; when the fat is boiling, add sufficient of the batter to 
evenly cover the pan, and when the underside is lightly 
browned, shake the pan and turn the pancake, and directly it 
is evenly browned on the other side, remove it from the pan, 
place on paper, and roll it up. Serve hot. 

Cheese and Macaroni Balls. 
Boil two ounces of macaroni, drain and cut into small pieces. 
Put it into a saucepan with one ounce of grated cheese, the 
yolk of one egg, pepper and salt. Cook for a few minutes. 
When cold form into balls, roll in egg and breadcrumbs and 
fry. Serve very hot. 

Cheese Fingers. 
Slice a quarter of a pound of cheese and pound in a mortar 
with one ounce of butter, salt and pepper and a little mustard 
and curry paste mixed. Serve on fingers of hot buttered toast. 

Cheese Souffle. 
Put one ounce of butter into a saucepan, and as soon as it 
has melted stir in half an ounce of sifted flour. Then add by 
degrees a quarter of a pint of warm milk, and stir until the 
mixture thickens ; season with' salt, pepper, and a little 
cayenne, and remove the pan from the fire. When the mix- 
ture has cooled a little, add the yolks of two eggs, one at a 
time, then stir in three ounces of grated cheese and very 
lightly mix in the whites of three eggs, whisked to a stiff 



312 STANDARD COOKERY. 

froth. Pour at once into a buttered souffle mold, and bake in 
a quick oven for from twenty to thirty minutes. Serve hot. 

Cheese Custard. 
Take six ounces of cheese, two cupfuls of milk, tw^o eggs, 
half an ounce of butter. Beat all well together, and bake for 
about half an hour in a fireproof dish, in not too hot an oven, 
and serve very hot. 

Cheese Pudding. 
Beat up an egg with a teaspoonful of made custard, a quar- 
ter of a pint of cream or milk and half an ounce of oiled butter. 
To this add half a pound of grated cheese, season well with 
salt and cayenne pepper, and mix thoroughly. Turn the 
whole into a buttered dish and bake gently from twenty to 
twenty-five minutes. 

SOYER'S PAPER-BAG COOKERY. 

SAVORIES. 
Filleted Deviled Kipper on Toast. 

Fillet the kipper in the usual way. Butter some toast. 
Place fillet on top and cut to any shape you may fancy. Put a 
little grated cheese, cayenne pepper or black pepper, a pinch 
of breadcrumbs, and a little butter. Put in the paper bag and 
place on grid. Alloiv five minutes in very hot oveii (350° 
Fahr.). 

Soft Roe a la Soyer. 

Place half the roe on top of a piece of buttered toast, put a 
good peeled mushroom on top, add salt and pepper to taste 
and a little piece of butter. Place the other half of the roe on 
top of the mushroom, add a little cayenne pepper, a pinch of 
grated cheese (Parmesan or any other kind), a few bread- 
crumbs and another piece of butter. Place in paper bag, seal 
up, and place on grid. Allow ten minutes in hot oven (320° 
Fahr.). 

Any Savory Made With Cheese and Cream. 
Put a little flaked cold fish with a sprinkling of Parmesan 
mixed with a little cream on a slice of well-buttered toast. 
Place in bag and cook six minutes in a very hot oven (350° 
Fahr.). 

Savory of Lobster. 
Cut a small lobster from head to tail. Cut flesh into small 
dice. Put in small stewpan with one tablespoon ful of white 



STANDARD COOKERY. 313 

sauce, one tablespoonful of cream; add salt and cayenne or 
other pepper to taste, and one teaspoonful of grated Parmesan. 
Mix up well, and place in the cavity of the shells. Put a little 
grated Parmesan cheese on top, and a little breadcrumbs and 
butter. Put in a paper bag. Place on the grid. Allow ten min- 
utes in hot oven (320° Fahr.) 

Crab and Crayfish. 

can be treated in the same way, with a like excellent result. 

Savory Oysters. 
Take two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, one teaspoonful of 
grated Parmesan cheese, one tablespoonful of cream, the liquor 
from the oysters, and seasoning to taste. Take half a dozen 
deep oyster shells. Put a little of the above mixture at the 
bottom ; then put the raw bearded oyster in the middle. Add 
a little more of the sauce on the top, with a little breadcrumbs, 
and a small piece of butter. Place your bag on the grid. Put 
your oysters carefully inside. Seal up, and allow eight min- 
utes in a very hot oven (350° Fahr.). 

Cheese Biscuit. 

Take four ounces of flour, three ounces of butter, one yolk 
of tgg, three tablespoonfuls of cream, one ounce of grated 
Parmesan cheese, three tablespoonfuls of water, and a pinch 
of cayenne pepper. Mix up gently and form a paste. Roll to 
the thickness of an ordinary biscuit, and cut to any shape. 
Place in paper bag, arranged so as not to touch each other. 
Allow ten to twelve minutes in hot oven (320° Fahr.). 

This biscuit will keep for months in a dry place, and with 
it any kind of savory can be served. 



314 STANDARD COOKERY. 



VEGETABLE SALADS. 

Chapon. 

Cut a neat square of crust from a white loaf, sprinkle it 
with salt and rub it with raw onion or with a clove of garlic. 
Put this at the bottom of the salad bowl, place the salad on it, 
and mix thoroughly. Serve immediately. 

French Bean Salad. 
Boil the beans whole, drain and dry them on a cloth ; when 
quite cold place them in a bowl and pour over them some salad 
oil, shake some black pepper over them and a small amount of 
salt; then drop over them a few drops of the best wine vinegar, 
and if liked, a sprinkling of very finely-minced tarragon and 
chives. 

Haricot Bean Salad. 

Soak the haricots for six or eight hours and then boil them 
until tender. Leave until cold. Pile them in the center of a 
salad bowl and surround with shred tomato or beetroot and 
some shred celery. Cover with whipped cream, flavored 
with salt and pepper. If liked, dip the haricot in oil and 
vinegar in addition to the cream. Decorate the cream with a 
little cayenne pepper, and arrange the beetroot so that it makes 
a red border to the white pyramid of cream. 

Lettuce Stalk Salad- 
Take the stalks from lettuces running to seed and tie them 
in bundles, cutting them more or less of the same size. Place 
in a saucepan and boil until tender, ten to fifteen minutes. 
Take out and drain them, and allow them to get quite cold. 
Then cut up into slices of the same size, place in a salad bowl 
and cover with mayonnaise sauce. 

Apple and Celery Salad. 

This salad consists of sliced apple and shred celery ; and is 
dressed with mayonnaise sauce or with whipped cream, fla- 
vored with salt and pepper. 

Nut and Celery Salad. 
Crack some Brazil nuts and cut the kernels into three or 
four pieces. Take an equal quantity of crisp cleanly-washed 
and shred celery. Mix together and dress with mayonnaise 



STANDARD COOKERY. 315 

sauce. Pile in the center of the salad bowl, and garnish with 
sliced tomato or beetroot. 

Walnut and Celery Salad. 

This salad is simply two-thirds of celery to one-third wal- 
nuts tossed in mayonnaise sauce. 

Walnut Salad. 

Stew some green peas with butter and a little water till quite 
done, and then let them get cold. Chop half a pound of fresh 
walnuts, after removing the skins, mix them well with the peas 
and cover with mayonnaise dressing. 

Winter Salad. 
Scald and then boil one or two large onions till soft. When 
cold slice the onion, mix with shred celery and sliced beetroot. 
Dress with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. 

Flemish Salad. 
Chop one pickled herring after removing the skin and bones, 
and add two cold boiled potatoes cut into small dice, a small 
sour apple peeled, cored, and chopped up small, a little cooked 
cauliflower, a handful of heart of celery finely shredded, and 
a few slices of pickled beetroot cut into thin strips. Season 
w^ell with pepper and salt, oil, and vinegar, but mix carefully 
in the salad bowl in order that it may not have a messy ap- 
pearance. 

Russian Salad. 
Cut up some beetroot into shapes, add to this a little chopped 
celery, some turnip, carrot, potato, all cooked and cut into dice; 
pour some mayonnaise over it all, mix well, and garnish with 
bunches of cress. 

Lettuce and Tomato Salad. 
For this proceed exactly as for a plain lettuce salad, but add 
a ring of fresh tomato, peeled, and not too thinly sliced. 

Potato Salad. 

Take sufficient boiled potatoes, cut them in slices and while 
still hot at once dress them with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt, 
and minced parsley, or any herbs that may be liked. But- 
ter or cream may be used in place of the oil, and some people 
add finely-sliced gherkins and beetroot with capers and minced 
anchovies. 

This salad should be eaten very cold, and when prepared as 
above is better than if made of cold potatoes. 



3i6 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Cabbage and Potato Salad. 

Cut in thin slices equal quantities of cold boiled potatoes, 
a pickled red cabbage, and one-third as much white celery 
very finely shreded. Mix thoroughly in a salad bowl, seasoning 
with pepper and salt, and pour over the whole some mayon- 
naise or any good salad dressing. 

Sardine and Onion Salad. 

Peel half a dozen small onions, make a little hole in the 
middle of each, and fill it with butter. Then bake in a cov- 
ered pan for an hour. Let them get quite cold and then slice 
carefully, adding six minced sardines — which must be thor- 
oughly cleaned from oil, bones, and skin — and six hard-boiled 
eggs cut in slices. Sprinkle freely with pepper, salt, and 
chopped parsley, and add a dressing composed of tarragon 
vinegar, lemon juice and olive oil. 

This salad is served very cold with slices of toast. 

Endive Salad. 

Trim and cut up finely a good-sized head of endive, and 
add a dressing made of two parts of olive oil to one of tarragon 
vinegar, a teaspoonful of anchovy paste, a little celery seed, 
and pepper and salt. Place in the salad bowl a hard crust which 
has been well rubbed with a clove of garlic. Add the salad 
with its dressing, and toss the whole for a few minutes, after 
which remove the crust. This gives just a suspicion of garlic 
without offending the taste. 

Carrot Salad. 

Cut up eight carrots into small dice — cooked ones may be 
used if preferred, but are not so good — and add three sliced 
raw tomatoes, a handful of watercress in small branches, and 
one minced onion. Mix with half a pint of mayonnaise dress- 
ing and place on a bed of lettuce leaves, garnishing with capers. 
Hot Cabbage Salad. 

Cut a red cabbage in very fine strips and mix well with 
melted bacon fat or goose grease, seasoning with pepper, salt 
and vinegar. Place in earthenware cooking pot and keep by 
the fire until the cabbage is thoroughly soft. Stir in the yolks 
of two eggs just before serving. 

This salad is, of course, eaten hot, as it would not be very 
desirable cold. 

Watercress Salad. 

Wash the sprigs of young watercress very thoroughly and 
mix with a dressing made in the following way : — 



STANDARD COOKERY. 317 

Put a saltspoonful of salt and half as much pepper into a 
cup with a tablespoonful of salad oil. Mix thoroughly, and 
then add gradually two more tablespoonfuls of oil and one 
of vinegar, with a little onion juice if liked. 

The better plan is only to rub the inside of the salad bowl 
with an onion or a clove of garlic; omitting the onion juice. 

Artichoke Salad. 
Boil the number of Japanese artichokes required for five 
minutes, and when cold place in a salad bowl with slices of 
cold boiled beetroot and celery. Cover with mayonnaise sauce. 
Garnish with beetroot and celery. 

Vegetable Marrow Salad. 
Boil or steam the marrow, drain, and when cold cut into 
neat pieces, place in a salad bowl with a dressing of oil and 
vinegar. 

Shrimp Salad. 

Cut up some boiled asparagus tips into short pieces, and add 
an equal quantity of boiled shrimps picked and cut up, unless 
they happen to be very small ones. Add some capers, a little 
French mustard, and mix thoroughly with mayonnaise dress- 
ing. 

This should be served upon lettuce leaves, and with toast. 

Anchovy Cheese Creams. 
Make round biscuits of the cheese pastry, and arrange on 
each some strips of anchovy and some capers, and then pile 
on each some whipped cream flavored with essence of anchovy 
and a little salt, and colored a pale pink. 

Orange Salad. 
Orange salad simply consists of the sections of oranges 
free from the pith and skin, string and pips, arranged in a 
bowl, and dressed with oil and vinegar. 

Orange and Cherry Salad. 
This salad consists of glace cherries arranged in the center 
of the bowl, surrounded by sections of oranges, and dressed 
with the same mixture. 



3i8 STANDARD COOKERY. 



FRUITS: FRESH, PRESERVED. 

Fruits are usually at their best when served ripe and in sea- 
son; a few cannot, however, be eaten in their raw state, while 
others are rendered more easy of digestion by cooking. The 
methods employed are stewing and baking. Fruit should be 
cooked in earthen or granite ware utensils, and silver or 
wooden spoons should be employed for stirring, as when they 
are exposed to air and brought into contact with an iron or 
tin surface a poisonous compound may be formed. 

To Prepare Strawberries. 

1. Pick over strawberries, place in colander, pour over 
cold water, drain thoroughly, dry lightly in a cloth, and turn 
into dish. Serve with powdered sugar and cream. 

2. Pick over selected strawberries, place in colander, pour 
over cold water, and drain thoroughly. Press powdered sugar 
into cordial glasses, and turn out on to fruit plates. Arrange 
twelve berries around each mold of sugar. Berries served in 
this way should not be dried. 

To Prepare Canteloupes. 

Canteloupes and muskmelons should be very ripe and thor- 
oughly chilled before being prepared for serving. Wipe 
melons — if small, cut in halves lengthwise; if larger, cut in 
sections, and remove seeds and stringy portion. If one-half 
is served as a portion, put in seed cavity one tablespoonful of 
crushed ice. Serve with powdered sugar. 

To Prepare Grapes. 

Put bunches in colander and pour over cold water, drain, 
chill, and arrange on serving dish. Imperfect grapes, as well 
as those under-ripe or over-ripe, should be removed with sharp- 
pointed scissors. Garnish with grape leaves, if procurable. 

To Prepare Oranges. 
I. Wipe orange and cut in halves crosswise (not through 
the stalk and eye). Place one-half on a fruit plate, having 
an orange spoon or teaspoon on plate at right of fruit. Serve 
with powdered sugar. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 319 

2. Peel an orange and remove as much of the white portion 
as possible. Remove pulp by sections, which may be accom- 
plished by using a sharp knife and cutting pulp from tough 
portion first on one side of section, then on the other. Should 
there be any white portion of skin remaining on pulp it should 
be cut off. Arrange sections on glass dish or fruit plate. If 
the orange is a seeded one, remove seeds. 

3. Remove peel from an orange in such a way that there 
remains a one-half inch band of peel equal distance from stem 
and blossom end. Cut band, separate sections, and arrange 
around a mold of powdered sugar. 

To Prepare Grape Fruit, 

Wipe grape fruit and cut in halves crosswise as directed for 
oranges. With a small, sharp-pointed knife make a cut separ- 
ating pulp from skin around entire circumference; then make 
cuts separating pulp from tough portion in one piece, which 
may be accomplished by one cutting with scissors at stem or 
blossom end close to skin. Sprinkle fruit pulp left in grape 
fruit skin generously with sugar. Let stand ten minutes, and 
serve very cold. Place on fruit plate and garnish with a candied 
cherry. 

Grape Fruit. 
Prepare grape fruit as above, add to each portion one table- 
spoonful of sherry wine, and let stand one hour in ice box 
or cold place. 

Grape Fruit With Apricot Brandy. 
Prepare grape fruit for serving and add to each portion one- 
half tablespoonful of apricot brandy. 

Grape Fruit With Sloe Gin. 
Prepare grape fruit for serving and add to each portion one- 
half tablespoonful of sloe gin. 

Fruit Cocktail. 
Remove pulp from grape fruit, and mix in a bowl with 
shredded pineapple, bananas cut in slices and then quartered, 
and strawberries cut in halves, using half as much pineapple 
and banana as grape fruit, and allowing four strawberries 
to each person. Pour over a dressing made of one-third cupful 
sherry wine, three tablespoonfuls apricot brandy, one-half 
cupful sugar, and a few grains salt. Chill thoroughly, serve in 
double cocktail glasses, and garnish with candied cherries. 



320 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Baked Apples. 
Procure sour apples, wipe and core. Score right round 
faintly with a sharp knife and put in a baking-dish filling 
cavities from whence core was removed with sugar and one 
drop of lemon juice. Allow one-half cupful of sugar and one- 
fourth teaspoonful of cinnamon or nutmeg to eight apples. If 
nutmeg is used, a few drops of lemon juice and few gratings 
from rind of lemon to each apple is an improvement. Slightly 
cover bottom of dish with boiling water, and bake in a hot oven 
until soft, basting often with syrup in dish. Serve hot or cold 
with cream. Many prefer to pare apples before baking. When 
this is done, core before paring, that fruit may keep in shape. 

Baked Sweet Apples. 

Wipe, core, and score eight sweet apples. Put in a baking- 
dish, and fill cavities with sugar. Add two-thirds cupful boil- 
ing water. Cover, and bake three hours in a slow oven, add- 
ing more water if necessary. 

Apple Sauce. 

Wipe, quarter, core and pare eight sour apples. Make a 
syrup by boiling seven minutes one cupful sugar and one cup- 
ful water with thin shavings from rind of a lemon. Remove 
lemon, add enough apples to cover bottom of saucepan, watch 
carefully during cooking, and remove as soon as soft. Con- 
tinue until all are cooked. Strain remaining syrup over 
apples. 

Spiced Apple Sauce. 

Wipe, quarter, core and pare eight sour apples. Put in a 
saucepan, sprinkle with one cupful sugar, add eight cloves, 
and enough water to prevent apples from burning. Cook to 
a mush, stirring occasionally. 

Apple Ginger. 

Wipe, quarter, core, pare and chop two and a half pounds 
of sour apples. Put in a stewpan and add one and a half 
pounds light brown sugar, the juice and rind of one and a 
half lemons, one-^half ounce of ginger root, a few grains salt, 
and enough water to prevent apples from burning. Cover, and 
cook slowly four hours, adding water as necessary. Apple 
ginger may be kept for several weeks. 

Baked Bananas. 

Remove skins from six bananas and cut in halves lengthwise. 
Put in a shallow granite pan or on an old platter. Mix two 



STANDARD COOKERY. 321 

tablespoonfuls melted butter, one-third cupful sugar, and two 
tablespoonfuls lemon juice. Baste bananas with one-half the 
mixture. Bake twenty minutes in a slow oven, basting dur- 
ing baking with remaining mixture. 

Baked Bananas. (Another Method.) 
Arrange bananas in a shallow pan, cover, and bake until 
skins become very dark in color. Remove from skins, and 
serve hot sprinkled with sugar. 

Sauted Bananas. 
Remove skins from bananas, cut in halves lengthwise and 
again halved. Dredge with flour, and saute in clarified butter. 
Drain, and sprinkle with powdered sugar. 

Baked Peaches. 
Peel, cut in halves, and remove stones from six peaches. 
Place in a shallow granite pan. Fill each cavity with one tea- 
spoonful sugar, one-half teaspoonful butter, a few drops of 
lemon juice, and a slight grating of nutmeg. Cook twenty 
minutes, and serve on circular pieces of buttered dry toast. 

Baked Pears. 

Wipe, quarter and core six pears. Put in a deep pudding- 
dish, sprinkle with sugar or a little molasses, then add water to 
prevent pears from burning. Cover, and cook two or three 
hours in a very slow oven. 

Baked Quinces. 
Wipe, quarter, core, and pare eight quinces. Put in a bak- 
ing-dish, sprinkle with three-fourths of a cupful of sugar, add 
one and one-half cupfuls water, cover, and cook until soft in 
a slow oven. Quinces require a long time for cooking. 

Cranberry Sauce. 
Pick over and wash three cupfuls cranberries. Put in a 
stewpan, add one and one-fourth cupfuls sugar and one cup- 
ful boiling water. Cover, and boil ten minutes. Care must 
be taken that they do not boil over. Skim and cool. 

Cranberry Jelly. 
Pick over and wash four cupfuls of cranberries. Put in a 
stewpan with one cupful boiling water, and boil twenty min- 
utes. Rub through a sieve, add two cupfuls sugar, and cook 
five minutes. Turn into a mold or glasses. 
Stewed Prunes. 
Wash and pick over prunes. Put in a saucepan, cover with 



322 STANDARD COOKERY. 

cold water, and soak two hours ; then cook in same water 
until soft. When nearly cooked, add sugar or molasses to 
sweeten. The addition of a small quantity of lemon juice is a 
great improvement. 

Rhubarb Sauce. 
Peel and cut rhubarb into one inch pieces. Put in a sauce- 
pan, sprinkle generously with sugar, and add a small quantity 
of water to prevent rhubarb from burning. Rhubarb con- 
tains such a large percentage of water that but little addi- 
tional water is needed. Cook until soft. If rhubarb is cov- 
ered with boiling water, allowed to stand five minutes, then 
drained and cooked, less sugar will be required. Rhubarb is 
sometimes baked in an earthen pudding-dish. If baked slowly 
for a long time it has a rich red color. 

Pears, Border of. 

Take four pounds of small stewing pears, one pound of loaf 
sugar, four ounces of castor sugar, two ounces of butter, six 
sponge cakes, four whole eggs, two yolks of eggs, the grated 
rind of one lemon, two inches of cinnamon, two gills of milk, 
carmine or cochineal. 

Peel and halve and core the pears, place them in a stewpan 
with syrup made with the loaf sugar, two pints of water, and 
a few drops of carmine, and cook the pears gently for about 
one-half an hour, or until tender. Remove the pears, reduce 
the syrup by rapid boiling, and re-heat the pears in it before 
serving. Meanwhile beat the eggs well, and add the castor 
sugar, lemon rind, milk, and a few drops of cochineal. Slice 
the sponge cakes, place them in a well-buttered border mold, 
pour in the custard, and bake for about forty minutes in the 
oven, in a tin containing boiling water to half the depth of 
the mold. When ready, turn out on to a hot dish, arrange the 
pears on the border, strain the syrup over them, and serve. 

Fruit Salad. 
Take four peeled and thinly-sliced bananas, half a pound 
of well-washed and dried black grapes, ditto strawberries, an 
apple, two large oranges. Pinch each grape slightly. Hull the 
strawberries and peel and slice the apple and oranges very 
thinly. Mix all well together in a deep bowl. Add to them the 
contents of a small bottle of raspberry syrup and a tablespoonful 
of brandy. Mix well. Leave on ice till needed. Serve with 
Devonshire cream or brandy butter, handed separately. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 323 



HORS-D'(EUVRES. 

To Make Clarified Butter. 
Take one pound of butter and melt it in a stewpan large 
enough to hold twice the quantity. Remove the scum which 
rises, and when the butter is clear strain through a muslin. 
It is then ready for frying cretonnes and for cooking sauces, 
etc. The clarifying has the effect of freeing the milk from the 
butter, which thus prevents the burning of articles cooked in 
the butter. 

VARIOUS BUTTERS FOR HORS-D'CEUVRES. 

Butters and Creams. 
The seasoning of butters for hors-d'oeuvres when preparing 
in advance, ought to be placed in a bowl, and put somewhere 
in the cool, covered with an oiled paper. 

Anchovy Butter. 
Wash twelve or fifteen anchovies in cold water, and dry them 
thoroughly. Remove the fillets from the bones, pound them 
smoothly with three ounces of butter, rub the whole through 
a fine sieve, and put aside. 

Caviare Butter. 

Pound three ounces of pressed caviare with three ounces of 
butter, and rub through a fine sieve. 

Shrimp Butter. 
Pound three ounces of shrimps with three ounces of butter; 
rub through a fine sieve after having softened the preparation. 
Curry Butter. 
Soften three ounces of butter in a bowl, and add thereto 
sufficient Madras curry-paste to ensure a decided taste. The 
exact quantity of curry cannot be prescribed, since the quality 
of the latter entirely governs its apportionment. 
Crayfish Butter. 
Cook the crayfish with two tablespoonfuls of mirepoix. 
Finely pound the shells after having removed the tails, and 
add thereto three ounces of butter per two ounces; rub through 
a fine sieve and add a little cochineal. 

The whole crayfish may be pounded, but the tails are us- 



324 STANDARD COOKERY. 

ually laid aside with a view to supplying the garnish of the 
toasts for which the butter is intended. 

Red-Herring Butter. 

Take the fillets of three red-herrings; remove the skins, and 
finely pound with three ounces of butter. Rub through a fine 
sieve. 

Lobster Butter. 

Pound three ounces of lobster trimmings and spawn, if any, 
and a little of the coral with four ounces of butter. Rub 
through a fine sieve. (If no coral, cochineal will do.) 

Horse-Radish Butter. 

Grate two ounces of horse-radish and pound with three 
ounces of butter. Rub through a fine sieve. 

Smoked Salmon Butter. 
Finely pound three ounces of smoked salmon with as much 
butter, and rub through a fine sieve. 

Paprika Butter. 

Soften two ounces of butter in a bowl, and mix therewith 
a pinch of paprika infused in a few drops of white wine or 
consomme, to strengthen the color of the paprika. 

Pimento Butter. 

Pound three ounces of preserved or freshly-cooked capsicum, 
or chili, add as much butter thereto, and rub through a fine 
sieve. 

Caviare Cream. 

Pound three ounces of preserved caviare and add thereto, 
gradually, one tablespoonful of fresh cream and two ounces of 
softened butter. Rub through a fine sieve, and finish the prep- 
aration by an addition of four tablespoonfuls of whisked cream, 
a little cayenne. Be careful not to whip cream too much. 

Lobster Cream. 

Pound three ounces of lobster trimmings, spawn and coral, 
and add thereto three tablespocnfuls of fresh cream and two 
ounces of softened butter. 

Rub through a hair sieve, and complete with whisked cream, 
as above. 

Game Cream. 

Pound four ounces of cold, cooked game meat, minus skin 
and bones, with three tablespoonfuls of fresh cream and two 



STANDARD COOKERY. 325 

ounces of softened butter. Rub through a sieve and finish with 
three tablespoonfuls of whisked cream. 

Smoked Salmon Cream. 
Finely pound three ounces of smoked salmon, adding grad- 
ually three tablespoonfuls of fresh cream and two ounces of 
softened butter. Rub the whole through a fine wire sieve, 
and finish with an addition of three tablespoonfuls of whisked 
cream. 

Tunny Cream. 
Finely pound four ounces of tunny in oil, and finish the 
cream similarly to that of the smoked salmon. Season to taste. 

Chicken Cream. 

Finely pound three ounces of cold fowl (white parts only) 
and add thereto two tablespoonfuls of fresh cream and one 
ounce of softened butter. Rub through a fine wire sieve and 
finish with three tablespoonfuls of whisked cream. 

HORS-D'CEUVRES. 
Anchovy Allumettes. 
Roll some puff paste trimmings into strips three inches wide 
and one-tenth inch thick. Spread thereon a thin coating of 
fish stuffing, finished with anchovy butter, and cayenne pepper; 
lay the anchovy fillets, prepared beforehand, lengthwise on this 
stuffing, and cut into pieces about one inch wide. Place the 
pieces on a baking-sheet, and bake in the oven for ten min- 
utes. 

Anchovy Fillets. 
Cut each halved anchovy, which should have been previously 
marinaded in oil, into two or three little fillets. Place them 
across each other in a hors-d'oeuvre dish, in the form of a lat- 
tice; garnish with chopped parsley and the chopped white and 
yolk of a hard-boiled egg, alternating the colors. Put a few 
capers on the fillets, and sprinkle moderately with oil. 

Rolled Anchovies. 
Turn some fine olives and stuff them with anchovy butter, 
when quite cold, encircle them with a ring of anchovy fillet, 
kept whole. 

Paupiettes of Anchovy. 

Prepare some thick slices of blanched cucumber, about the 
size of half-crowns, and hollow their centers slightly. Place 
rings composed of the fillets of anchovies in oil upon these 



326 STANDARD COOKERY. 

slices, and fill up their centers with cream of any fish or shell- 
fish. 

Anchovy With Pimentos. 
Prepare some anchovy fillets in oil, and place them across 
each other using fillets of pimento alternately with those of the 
anchovies. Garnish as for anchovy fillets, i. e., with the 
chopped white and yolk of a hard-boiled egg, and chopped 
parsley. 

Eel With White Wine and Paprika. 
Divide the eel into lengths of three and a half inches; poach 
in exactly the same way as for matelote, but with white wine 
and paprika seasoning. Let them cool in thier cooking-liquor, 
cut the pieces lengthwise into large fillets, and cover them with 
the liquor after all grease has been removed. 

Eel Au Vert. 

Stew in butter two ounces of sorrel, one-quarter ounce each 
of parsley and chervil, a few tarragon leaves, one-quarter ounce 
of savory, a sprig of green thyme, and a few sage-leaves all 
of which must be chopped. Remove the skins from two 
pounds of small eels, remove the heads, and cut into pieces 
two inches long. Put these pieces with the herbs, stiffen them 
well, and add one pint of white wine and a little salt and pep- 
per, and two tablespoonfuls of cream. Set to cook for ten 
minutes, thicken with the yolks of four eggs, and a few drops 
of lemon juice, and leave to cool in a bowl. This preparation 
of eel is served very cold. 

Artichoke Bottoms. 

Remove the leaves and the hearts of some little artichokes; 
trim their remaining bases, and plunge each as soon as trimmed 
into acidulated water lest they blacken. Cook them as Jeru- 
salem artichokes, leave them to cool in their liquor. 

Drain well, dry and place them in a pan, and marinade them 
for twenty minutes in oil and lemon juice. This done, garnish 
them with mayonnaise, or other puree macedoine, or a vegetable 
salad, etc. Place on a hors-d'oeuvre dish with a garnish of 
parsley. 

Smoked Hamburg Beef. 

Cut it into very thin slices; divide these up and roll into the 
shape of cones. The slices may also be served flat 
Dish up at the last moment. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 327 

Canapes and Toast. 

In the matter of hors-d'oeuvres, the two above names have 
the same meaning. The preparation consists of small slices 
of the crumb of bread, about one-quarter inch thick, slightly 
toasted and with a garnish on one of their sides, the garnish 
being a matter of taste. 

But the best garnish, for canapes or toast, is fresh butter 
combined with a fine mince of white roast chicken-meat, the 
meat of shell-fish or fish, or cheese, etc. 

Whatever be the garnish it is always best to put plenty of 
butter on the pieces of toast while they are still hot, with the 
view of keeping them soft. 

When the garnish consists of a puree, i. e., a compound but- 
ter, I advise the use of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, 
for laying the preparation upon the toast. 

The shapes given to the toast may be as fancy dictates. They 
should never exceed one and one-half inches in diameter. 

Caviare Toast. 

Make the pieces of toast round; cover with caviare butter, 
garnish the edges with a thread of softened butter laid on by 
means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe. Put fresh 
caviare in the center. 

Shrimp Toast. 

Make the pieces of toast round or square, cover with shrimp 
butter, and garnish by means of a border composed of shelled 
shrimps' tails with a caper or gherkin in the center. 
Christiana Toast. 

Prepare and warm some slices of brown bread, equal in 
thickness to the toast. Spread horse-radish butter over them 
and cover with alternate strips of smoked salmon, caviare, and 
filleted herrings, marinaded. Now stamp the garnished slices 
with a sharp fancy-cutter, according to fancy. 
Tongue Toast. 

Prepare some slices of crumb of bread, of equal thickness, 
and toast them. Now garnish with a coating, half as thick as 
the slices themselves, of seasoned butter. Cover the butter 
with thin slices of very red, salted tongue, and let the butter 
harden. 

Stamp out the pieces of toast with a star-shaped cutter, which 
should be dipped occasionally in boiling water in order to facil- 
itate the operation. Finally, make a rosette of butter in the 
middle of each piece. 



328 STANDARD COOKERY.. 

Elena Toast. 

Prepare round pieces of toast, cover with mustard butter, 
and border the edges with a line of finely-chopped tongue. 
Garnish the middle of each with chopped white chicken-meat, 
and in the center drop a pinch of chopped truffle and parsley. 

Various Jannette. 

These are very small eclairs of pate a choux without sugar. 
When quite cold, garnish them inside with a puree, either of 
tongue, fowl, game, or foie-gras, etc., then coat them thinly 
with a chaud-froid sauce in keeping with the puree forming 
the inside garnish. 

When the sauce has cooled, glaze it by means of a brush, 
with a little cold melted jelly, to make it glossy. 

Jannette are also used as a garnish for certain cold prep- 
arations, aspics, etc. They must be eaten the day they are 
made. 

Blinis of Caviare. 

Caviare is the richest and most delicate of hors-d'oeuvre. It 
is served very simply, either in a silver timbale or on its 
original receptacle, surrounded with ice, and accompanied by 
a dish of Blinis, the preparation of which is as follows: — 

Make a thin paste with one ounce of yeast and one pound 
of sifted flour diluted with one pint of lukewarm milk. Leave 
to ferment for two hours in a lukewarm atmosphere, and 
then add one-half pound of flour, the yolks of four eggs, a 
pinch of salt, one-half pint of tepid milk; mix the whole with- 
out letting it acquire any body, and finally add the whites of 
four eggs, whisked. Allow to ferment for half an hour, and, 
when about to serve, cook the Blinis quickly, after the manner 
of pancakes, in special little omelette-pans. Dish up very hot 
on a napkin. 

If unable to procure fresh caviare, the pressed and salted 
kind may be used for hors-d'oeuvres. Some cooks serve finely- 
chopped shallot with fresh caviare; a worse practice could not 
be imagined. Fresh caviare does not need any condiment. 

Celery " Bonne-Femme." 
Take equal quantities of very tender celery sticks and peeled, 
quartered and cored russet apples. Finely mince the celery 
and apples, season with a mustard-and-cream sauce, and place 
on a hors-d'oeuvre dish. 

Celery a la Grecque. 
Selected a few hearts of celery of equal size; trim, wash. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 329 

and parboil them in acidulated water, as directed under " ar- 
tichoke bottoms." Prepare the cooking-liquor from the same 
ingredients, using the same quantities thereof, and cook sim- 
ilarly. 

Serve very cold on a crystal hors-d'oeuvres dish, with a por- 
tion of the cooking-liquor. 

Celeriac. 
Quarter, peel, and cut the vegetable julienne fashion. Pre- 
pare the seasoning with mustard, salt, pepper, and vinegar; 
add the julienne of celeriac and mix thoroughly. When the 
roots are quite soft, a seasoning consisting of mustard-and- 
cream sauce is excellent. 

Cherries a I'Allemande. 
Take two pounds of Morella cherries, put them in a bottle, 
as in the case of cherry brandy, and add thereto two cloves, a 
fragment of cinnamon, a little grated nutmeg, and a small sprig 
of tarragon. Pour over the cherries one quart of vinegar, 
boiled with one-half pound of brown sugar, and cooled. Cork 
the bottle, and leave the fruit to macerate for a fortnight. 

Brains Nievise. 

Cook well-cleansed sheep's or lamb's brains in court-bouil- 
lon, and cool. Divide them up into thin and regular slices, 
and place them on a fine sieve, combine the resulting puree 
with a mustard-and-cream sauce, and add thereto a fine 
julienne of the white part only on celery well dried. 

Cover the slices of brain with the sauce. 

Cucumber a la Nevegrode. 

Cut the cucumber to the shape of small cassolettes or bar- 
quettes, blanch and marinade tham. 

Garnish with a preparation composed of a puree of salmon 
mixed with fillets of herring and chopped, hard-boiled eggs in 
equal quantities. 

Sprinkle a little grated horse-radish over the garnish. 

Stuffed Cucumbers. 
Prepare as above, in the shape of small barquettes or cas- 
solettes. Cook them, at the same time keeping them firm : 
marinade them for twenty minutes, when quite cold, in oil and 
vinegar, and garnish by means of a piping-bag, either with a 
thick puree, some mincemeat thickened with mayonnaise or a 
small vegetable macedoine, etc. 



330 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Cucumber Salad. 

Carefully peel the cucumbers, cut them in two, length- 
wise, remove seeds, and mince finely. Place them in a bowl, 
sprinkle with table-salt, and leave them to exude their moisture 
for twenty-five minutes. This done, drain them, press them in 
a towel, season with pepper, oil, and vinegar, and add some 
chopped chervil. 

Molded Creams. 

Prepare a hors-d'oeuvre cream in accordance with previous 
recipes. Put this cream into very small, slightly oiled, and 
ornamented molds, and leave to set in the cool or on ice. 
Empty the molds at the moment of dishing up, either directly 
upon a dish, on tartlets garnished with a puree in keeping with 
the cream, or on toast. With these molded creams, endless 
varieties of little hors-d'ceuvres may be prepared, while in their 
preparation the molds used in pastry for " petits fours " may 
serve a useful purpose. One sheet of melted gelatine is an im- 
provement. 

Duchesses. 

This hors-d'oeuvre is almost equivalent to the Jannette ex- 
cept that the shape of the Duchesses is that of little choux, 
about the size of a pigeon's egg, and that, as a rule, they are 
merely glazed with some melted jelly, and not covered with 
a chaud-froid sauce. Sprinkle them with chopped pistachios, 
and serve very cold on ornamented fish-papers. 

Nantua Duchesses. 

Stuff the little choux, referred to above, with crayfish puree 
or sardines and sprinkle them, again and again, with cold, 
melted jelly by means of a small brioche, in order to cover 
them with a transparent film. 

Duchesses Reine. 

Stuff the little choux with a puree of fowl with cream. 
Glaze with jelly, as above, and sprinkle with very black, finely- 
chopped truffles. 

Duchesses Sultane. 

Stuff the little choux with a puree of fowl, completed with 
pistachio butter. Glaze with jelly, and sprinkle a little chopped 
pistachio upon each little choux. 

Caviare Duchesses. 

Stuff with fresh caviare or caviare cream. Serve with jelly 
iced on double glass dishes. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 331 

Smoked Salmon Duchesses. 

Stuff the little choux with a puree of smoked salmon and 
butter. 

Norwegian Duchesses. 

Stuff the ohoux with a puree of Kilkis and butter and serve 
with jelly. 

Fennel a la Greque. 
Prepare as for artichokes and celery a la Greque. 

Foie-Gras. 

If in the form of a sausage, cut it into thin slices. If potted, 
shape it into little shells, after the manner in which butter is 
sometimes served, only a little smaller. In all cases serve 
it iced, and as soon as ready. 

Salad of Filleted Salted Herrings. 
Remove the fillets whole ; take off the skins ; set to soak and 
then trim. Dish, and cover them with the following sauce : — 
Add the puree of eight soft roes, moistened with two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar, to four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise. 
Season with onion, parsley, chervil, chives, and tarragon, all 
finely chopped; flavor with cayenne. 

Fresh Herrings Marinaded in White Wine. 

For twelve herrings, put one pint of white wine into a sauce- 
pan, with a gill of vinegar, an onion cut into thin slices, half 
a carrot cut into grooved roundels, a faggot, the necessary salt, 
and a few peppercorns. Set to boil gently for twenty minutes. 

Place the cleaned herrings in a saucepan, pour the boiling 
marinade upon them, and poach for fifteen minutes. 

Serve very cold with the marinade, the roundels of carrot, 
and thin strips of onion. 

Lucas Herrings. 

Raise the fillets from fine salted herrings, soak in cold water, 
and then in milk for an hour. 

Prepare a sauce as follows : Beat up the yolks of two eggs 
in a bowl with salt and pepper and one tablespoonful of mus- 
tard; add five tablespoonfuls of oil and two of vinegar, pro- 
ceeding as in the case of mayonnaise, and complete with shal- 
lots and one dessertspoonful of chopped chervil and gherkins. 
Season with cayenne, immerse the drained and dried fillets of 
herrings in this sauce, and send to the table on a hors-d'oeuvre 
dish. 



332 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Herrings a la Simone. 
Take some fine salted herrings' fillets, clean and cut them into 
dice. Place these in a bowl, and add thereto, in equal quanti- 
ties, some cold boiled potatoes and russet apples cut into dice, 
parsley, chervil, and chopped fennel and tarragon. Season with 
oil and vinegar, salt and pepper, make the preparation into 
shapes resembling herrings, and place the heads and tails, 
which should have been put aside for the purpose, at each ex- 
tremity of every imitation herring. 

Herrings a la Russe. 

Cut some fine, cleaned fillets of salted herrings into thin 
slices. Dish up, and alternate the rows of sliced fillets with 
rows of sliced, cold boiled potatoes. Season with oil and vine- 
gar, and finish up with chopped chervil, fennel, tarragon, and 
shallots. 

Herrings Paysanne. 

These hors-d'ceuvres are at their best in the months of Sep- 
tember and October, when the first shoals of herrings begin to 
appear. They can only be kept a few days, but they form an 
excellent dish, and their flavor is exquisite. Before serving 
them, it is only needful to skin them, whereupon they may be 
dished up with a little chopped parsley. Send a bowl of 
French beans to the table with them, the vegetables having 
been freshly cooked, kept somewhat firm, buttered, and not 
cooled. Some cooks serve the beans cold, in the form of a 
salad, but as a rule they are preferred hot with butter, while 
the herrings should be very cold. 

Oysters. 

The best oysters to be had are those of Whitstable, and Col- 
chester. 

Oysters are the dish par excellence : and they are so easily 
digested that the most delicate invalid can partake of them 
freely. With the exception of caviare, they are the only hors- 
d'oeuvres which should ever appear on the menu of a well- 
ordered dinner. 

Oysters ought to be served cold; hence the prevailing custom 
of dishing them on ice. In England they are served plain on 
the flat half of the shell. Send some slices of brown bread 
and butter and lemon to the table with the oysters. 

Melon with Port, Marsala, or Sherry, Etc. 
Select a cantaloupe melon and let it be just ripe. Make a 



STANDARD COOKERY. 333 

round incision about the stalk, three inches in diameter ; with- 
draw the plug thus cut, and through the resulting hole thor- 
oughly remove all the pips by means of a silver spoon. 

Now pour one-half pint of best port, marsala, or sherry into 
the melon, replace the plug, and keep the melon for two or 
three hours in a cooler surrounded by broken ice. Do not cut 
the melon into slices when serving it. It should be taken to 
the table whole, and then the piece containing the stalk is with- 
drawn and the fruit is cut into shell-like slices with a silver 
spoon, and served with a little of the accompanying wine upon 
iced plates. 

Smoked Breast of Goose. 

Cut it into the thinnest possible slices, and garnish with very 
green parsley. 

Plain Olives. 

Olives of all kinds are suitable for hors-d'oeuvres, and are 
served plain. They are excellent, provided they be fleshy, 
firm, very green, and moderately salted. 

Stuffed Olives. 

Select large Spanish olives and stone them, either by cut- 
ting them spirally, or by means of a special machine. In the 
place of the stone, put one of the butters or creams for hors- 
d'oeuvres. Before serving these olives, let them rest awhile 
in a moderately warm atmosphere. Stuffed olives are generally 
kept in the cool, immersed in oil with which they become thor- 
oughly saturated, therefore it follows that the moment they 
come into contact with a slightly higher temperature they will 
exude that oil and reach the table swimming in oil, and not 
at all appetising. Hence the warning given above. 

Hard-Boiled Eggs as a Basis for Hors-d'CEuvres. 

Egg Disks. — Cut the eggs laterally into roundels a third of 
an inch in thickness, discarding the two end pieces of each 
egg, so that the shapes may be almost uniform, and the yolks 
appear about the same size throughout. In the center of each 
roundel make a little rosette of butter, by means of a small, 
grooved pipe, use different butters, such as the shrimp, mont- 
pellier, cavaire, and other kinds in order to vary the colors. 

Halved, Stuffed Eggs. — Take some very small, hard-boiled 
eggs, cut them into two, lengthwise ; remove the yolks, and trim 
the oval hollow of each of the remaining whites to the shape 
of an oblong, the edges of which may then be indented. 



334 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Garnish, with a puree of either tunny, salmon, milt, or a hash 
or salpicon of lobster, shrimp, etc., thickened by means of a 
mayonnaise with jelly, or a fine macedoine of vegetables with 
mayonnaise, or a puree composed of the withdrawn yolks com- 
bined with a little butter, some cold Bechamel sauce, and 
herbs. 

Quartered, Stuffed Eggs. — Proceed as above and stuff 
the halved white with a buttered puree, or a puree mixed with 
jelly, leave the stuffing to set, and then cut the halves in two. 

Salad of Eggs. — With alternate rows of sliced eggs and 
either tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, or beetroot, and a salad- 
seasoning composed of oil and vinegar or cream, a dozen dif- 
ferent salads may be prepared, each of which constitutes an 
excellent hors-d'oeuvre. 

Lark Pate. 

For this use the ready-made pate, which is obtained either 
in pots or crusts. Thoroughly set it by means of ice; turn it 
out of its receptacle, cut it into very small and thin slices, 
and arrange on a hors-d'oeuvre dish with a little broken jelly 
in the middle. 

Red Mullet a la Greque. 

Select small fish if possible. Place them in an oiled pan, and 
add peeled squeezed tomatoes, parsley-root, fennel, thyme, bay, 
a little garlic, peppercorns, coriander, and saffron, the latter 
being the dominating ingredient. 

Cover with white wine ; salt moderately, set to boil, and then 
leave to poach on the side of the fire for twelve or eighteen 
minutes, according to the size of the mullet. 

Leave the fish to cool in their cooking-liquor, and serve with 
a little of the latter and a few slices of peeled lemon. 

Salami. 

Cut these into very thin slices, and place them, one on top 
of the other, on a hors-d'oeuvre dish, in the form of a crown, 
with a sprig of curled-leaf parsley in the middle. They may 
also be laid flat upon a litter of parsley. 

Aries, Bologne or Large Lyons Sausages. 

Cut these up and arrange like the Salami. 

Foie-Gras Sausages. 
Cut into thin roundels and dish up on serviette with chopped 
aspic ji^Uy ^§ 3 center garnish. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 335 

Smoked Salmon. 
Cut into thin slices ; roll these into cones, and arrange in the 
form of a crown with curled-leaf parsley in the middle. 

Sprats. 

These are usually smoked sardines, taking care to select the 
very fleshy ones. 

To prepare them, suppress the heads and remove or leave 
on the skins, according to taste. Put them on a dish with some 
finely-chopped shallots, chopped parsley, and oil and vinegar, 
using a very little of each ingredient. Leave to marinade for 
five or six hours, taking care to turn them over from time to 
time so as to be thoroughly saturated. 

Tartlets and Barquettes. 

Special Paste for Tartlets and Barquettes. — Sift one 
pound of flour on to a mixing-board ; make a hole in the center, 
into which put one-eighth ounce of salt, one-half pound of 
cold, melted butter, one egg, the yolks of two, and a few drops 
of vi^ater. Mix the whole into a paste, handling it as little as 
possible; roll it into a ball, and put aside in the cool for two 
hours. 

The Preparation of Tartlet and Barquette-crusts. — 
Roll out the paste to the thickness of one-eighth inch, and stamp 
it with an indented fancy-cutter into pieces of the same size 
as the tartlet-molds to be used, which in this case are the same 
as for " petits fonirs," and, therefore, very small. 

The fancy-cutter should be round for tartlets, and oval for 
barquettes. Lay the paste in the molds, prick the parts lying 
on the bottom, lest they should blister, garnish the insides with 
pieces of kitchen paper to protect the paste, and fill them with 
rice or flour. Bake in a moderate oven; remove the rice or 
flour, the sole object of which was to preserve the shape of 
the tartlets or barquettes; turn the latter out of their molds, 
and set to cool. 

Example. — Garnish the bottom of a tartlet or barquette 
with a coating of pink, shrimp, crayfish, or lobster mousse. 
Upon this lay a very white poached oyster, or a slice of hard- 
boiled egg, stamped with an indented fancy-cutter. In the cen- 
ter of the yolk put a little lobster coral, and coat the whole 
with jelly to the level of the tartlet edges. 

Tunny in Oil. 

These may be purchased ready prepared and may be served 



336 STANDARD COOKERY. 

as it stands. It is very greatly used as a garnish for hors- 
d'oeuvres. 

Tunny With Tomatoes. 

Lay alternate slices of tunny and tomato upon a hors-d'cEUvre 
dish, and between each sHce lay a thin round of onion. Gar- 
nish the edge of the dish with a border composed of sliced po- 
tato, and sprinkle with an ordinary salad seasoning. 

Tomatoes a. L'Americaine. 
Select firm, medium-sized tomatoes, and cut them into thin 
slices. Put them into a dish with salt, pepper, oil, and a few 
drops of vinegar, and leave to marinade for twenty minutes. 
Then arrange on a hors-d'oeuvre dish, garnishing the border 
with thin rings of onion. 

Tomatoes Monegasque. 

Select and skin some small tomatoes the size of walnuts, and 
cut a slice from each in the region of the stalk. Squeeze out 
all the juice and seeds. Prepare a mince of tunny with oil, and 
add for every two ounces of the fish, half a tablespoonful of 
finely-chopped onion, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, cher- 
vil, tarragon, and hard-boiled egg. 

Thicken with a tablespoonful of thick mayonnaise; put it 
into a bag fitted with a smooth, medium-sized pipe, and garnish 
the tomatoes with the preparation, using enough of the latter 
to form a dome on each tomato. 

Quartered Tomatoes. 

Use medium-sized tomatoes, somewhat firm and with smooth 
skins. Peel and empty them, and then fill with either a fish 
puree cleared with jelly, or with a macedoine of vegetables 
thickened by means of a mayonnaise with jelly. Place on ice 
for half an hour, and cut the tomatoes into regular quarters. 

Marinaded Trout. 

'Select some small trout, clean and dress them, and poach 
in a white wine court-bouillon to which vinegar has been 
added in the proportion of one-third of its volume. 

Leave the fish to cool in the liquor, and dish up with a few 
tablespoonfuls of the latter, placing some thin, grooved slices of 
lemon upon the fish. 

Soyer's Sauce Ravigote or Mayonnaise without Eggs. 
Place in a bowl or large cup one mustard spoonful of made 
mustard, and one saltspoonful each of salt and pepper; mix 



'STANDARD COOKERY. 337 

well together with a drop or two of salad oil. Now add one 
tablespoonful of vinegar and beat all together with a spoon. 
When blended, add very gradually — in a thin stream — six 
tablespoonfuls of salad oil, beating the mixture vigorously all 
the time. The result should be a thick, creamy sauce of ex- 
cellent flavor for use with green or other salads. A table- 
spoonful of whipped cream, added to and well whisked with 
the above, imparts a delicious softness, but is not a necessary 
adjunct. 



338 STANDARD COOKERY. 



BREAD, ROLLS, MUFFINS, BUNS, AND 
PASTES. 

Bread Making. 
Fermented Bread is made by mixing to a dough, flour, 
with a definite quantity of water, milk, or water and milk, 
salt, and a ferment such as yeast. Sugar is usually added to 
hasten fermentation. The dough is then kneaded that the in- 
gredients may be thoroughly incorporated, covered, and allowed 
to rise in a temperature of 68° F., until the dough has doubled 
its bulk. This change has been caused by action of the fer- 
ment, which attacks some of the starch in the flour, and 
changes it to sugar, and sugar in turn to alcohol and carbon 
dioxide, thus lightening the whole mass. The dough is then 
kneaded a second time to break bubbles and distribute evenly 
the carbon dioxide. It is shaped in loaves, put in greased 
breadpans (they being half filled), covered, allowed to rise 
in temperature same as for first rising, to double its bulk. 
If risen too long, it will be full of large holes; if not risen 
long enough, it will be heavy and soggy. 

How TO Shape Loaves and Biscuits. — To shape bread 
dough in loaves, divide dough in parts, each part large enough 
for a loaf, knead until smooth, and if possible avoid seams in 
under part of loaf. If baked in brick pan, place two loaves 
in one pan, brushed between with a little melted butter. If 
baked in long shallow pan, when well kneaded, roll with both 
hands to lengthen, care being taken that it is smooth and of 
uniform thickness. Where long loaves are baked on sheets, 
shape and roll loosely in a towel sprinkled with corn meal for 
last rising. 

To shape bread dough in biscuits, pull or cut off as many 
small pieces (having them of uniform size) as there are to be 
biscuits. Flour palms of hands slightly; take up each piece 
and shape separately, lifting with thumb and first two fingers 
of right hand, and placing in palm of left hand, constantly 
moving dough round and round, while folding towards the 
center; when smooth, turn it over and roll between palms of 
hands. Place in greased pans near together, brushed between 



STANDARD COOKERY. 339 

with a little melted butter, which will cause biscuits to sep- 
arate easily after baking. For finger rolls, shape biscuits and 
roll with one hand on part of board where there is no flour, 
until of desired length, care being taken to make smooth, of 
uniform size, and round at ends. 

Bread is often brushed over with milk before baking. 

Where bread is allowed to rise over night, a small piece of 
yeast cake must be used ; one-fourth yeast cake to one pint of 
liquid is sufficient, one-third yeast cake to one quart of liquid. 
Bread mixed and baked during the day requires a larger 
quantity of yeast; one yeast cake, or sometimes even more, to 
one pint of liquid. Bread dough mixed with a large quantity 
of yeast should be watched during rising, and cut down as 
soon as mixture doubles its bulk. If proper care is taken, the 
bread will be found most satisfactory, having neither " yeasty " 
nor sour taste. 

Baking of Bread. 

Bread should be baked in a hot oven. If the oven be too 
hot the crust will brown quickly, and before the heat has 
reached the center, thus preventing further rising; the loaf 
should continue rising for first fifteen minutes of baking, when 
it should begin to brown, and continue browning for the next 
twenty minutes. The last fifteen minutes it should finish bak- 
ing, when the heat may be reduced. When bread is done, it 
will not cling to sides of pan, and may be easily removed. 
Biscuits require more heat than loaf bread, should continue ris- 
ing the first five minutes, and begin to brown in eight minutes. 
Always use a Soyer Thermometer for testing temperature of 
oven. 

After Baking. 

Remove loaves at once from pans, and place on their sides 
on a wire bread or cake cooler. If a crisp crust is desired al- 
low bread to cool without covering; if soft crust, cover with a 
towel during cooling. When cool, put in tin box or stone jar, 
and cover closely. 

Never keep bread wrapped in a cloth, as the cloth will ab- 
sorb moisture, and transmit an unpleasant taste to the bread. 
Bread tins or jars should be washed and scalded twice a week 
in winter, and every other day in summer ; otherwise bread is 
apt to mould. 

Unfermented Bread is raised without a ferment, the car- 
bon dioxide being produced by the use of soda (alkaline salt. 



340 STANDARD COOKERY. 

and an acid). Soda, employed in combination with cream of 
tartar, for raising mixtures, in proportion of one-third soda to 
two-thirds cream of tartar, was formerly used to a great ex- 
tent, but has been generally superseded by baking powder. 

Baking Powder is composed of soda and cream of tartar 
in definite, correct proportions, mixed with small quantity of 
dry material (flour or corn-starch) to keep action from taking 
place. If found to contain alum or ammonia, it is impure. In 
using baking powder, allow two teaspoonfuls of baking pow- 
der to each cup of flour, when eggs are not used ; to egg mix- 
tures allow one and one-half teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
When a recipe calls for soda and cream of tartar, in substitut- 
ing baking powder, use double amount of cream of tartar given. 

Soda and cream of tartar, or baking-powder mixtures, are 
made light by liberation of gas in mixture; the gas in soda is 
set free by the acid in cream of tartar; in order to accomplish 
this, moisture and heat are both required. As soon as moisture 
is added to baking-powder mixtures, the gas will begin to es- 
cape; hence the necessity of baking as soon as possible. If 
baking powder only is used for raising, put mixture to be 
cooked in a hot oven. 

Fermented and unfermented breads are raised to be made 
light and porous, that they may be easily acted upon by the 
digestive ferments. Some mixtures are made light by heat- 
ing sufficiently to enclose a large amount of air, and when 
baked in a hot oven, air is forced to expand. 

Aerated Bread is made light by carbon dioxide forced into 
dough under pressure. The carbon dioxide is generated from 
sulphuric acid and lime. Aerated bread is of close texture, 
and has a flavor peculiar to itself. It is a product of the bak- 
er's skill, but has found little favor except in few localities. 

Water Bread. 

Two cups boiling water, one tablespoonful of butter, one 
tablespoonful of lard, one tablespoonful of sugar, one and a half 
teaspoonfuls of salt, one-quarter yeast cake dissolved in one- 
quarter cup lukewarm water, six cups sifted flour. 

Put butter, lard, sugar, and salt in bread raiser, or large 
bowl without a lip; pour on boiling water; when lukewarm, 
add dissolved yeast cake and five cups of flour; then stir until 
thoroughly mixed, using a wooden spoon. Add remaining 
flour, mix, and turn on a floured board, leaving a clean bowl; 
knead until mixture is smooth, elastic to touch, and bubbles 



STANDARD COOKERY. 341 

may be seen under the surface. Some practice is required to 
knead quickly, but the motion once acquired will never be for- 
gotten. Return to bowl, cover with a clean cloth kept for the 
purpose, and board or tin cover; let rise over night in tempera- 
ture of 65° F. In morning cut down ; this is accomplished 
by cutting through and turning over dough several times with 
a case knife, and checks fermentation for a short time ; dough 
may be raised again, and re-cut down if it is not convenient to 
shape into loaves or biscuits after first cutting. When prop- 
erly cared for, bread need never sour. Toss on board slightly 
floured, knead, shape into loaves or biscuits, place in greased 
pans, having pans nearly half full. Cover, let rise again to 
double its bulk, and bake in hot oven. Cottolene, coto suet, or 
beef drippings may be used for shortening, one-third less be- 
ing required. Bread shortened with butter has a good flavor, 
but is not as white as when lard is used. 

Milk and Water Bread. 

One cup scalded milk, one cup of boiling water, one table- 
spoonful of lard, one tablespoonful of butter, one and a half 
teaspoonfuls of salt. One yeast cake dissolved in one-quarter 
cup lukewarm water, six cups sifted flour, or one cup white 
flour and enough entire wheat flour to knead. 

Prepare and bake as water bread. When entire wheat flour 
is used add three tablespoonfuls molasses. Bread may be 
mixed, raised, and baked in five hours, by using one yeast cake. 
Bread made in this way has proved most satisfactory. It is 
usually mixed in the morning, and the cook is able to watch 
the dough while rising and keep it at uniform temperature. It 
is often desirable to place bowl containing dough in pan of 
water, keeping water at uniform temperature of from 95° to 
100° F. 

Graham Bread. 

Two and a half cups of hot liquid (water, or milk and 
water), half cup molasses, one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt, 
one-quarter yeast cake dissolved in one-quarter cup lukewarm 
water, three cups flour, three cups Graham flour. 

Prepare and bake as in first recipe. The bran remaining 
in sieve after sifting Graham flour should be discarded. 

Rye Bread. 
Two cups lukewarm water, one yeast cake, one-half table- 
spoonful of salt, one-half cup molasses, one cup rye flour, one 
cup granulated cornmeal, three cups of flour. 



342 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Dissolve yeast cake in water, add remaining ingredients, 
and mix thoroughly. Let rise, shape, let rise again and bake 
as in first recipe. 

Rolled Oats Bread. 

Two cups boiling water, one-half cup molasses, one-half 
tablespoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of butter, one-half 
yeast cake dissolved in one-half cup lukewarm water, one cup 
rolled oats, four and a half cups of flour. 

Add boiling water to oats and let stand one hour; add mo- 
lasses, salt, butter, dissolved yeast cake, and flour; let rise, 
beat thoroughly, turn into buttered bread-pans, let rise again, 
and bake. By using one-half cup less flour, the dough is bet- 
ter suited for biscuits, but, being soft, is difficult to handle. 
To make shaping of biscuits easy, take up mixture by spoon- 
fuls, drop into plate of flour, and have palms of hands well 
covered with flour before attempting to shape. 

Rye Biscuits. 

One cup of boiling water, one cup rye flakes, two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter, one-third cup molasses, one and a half tea- 
spoonfuls of salt, one yeast cake dissolved in one cup of luke- 
warm water, flour. 

Make same as rolled oats bread. 

Rye Bread, 

One cup scalded milk, one cup boiling water, one tablespoon- 
ful of lard, one tablespoonful of butter, one-third cup of brown 
sugar, one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt, one-quarter yeast 
cake dissolved in one-quarter cup lukewarm water, three cups 
of flour, rye meal. 

To milk and water add lard, butter, sugar, and salt; when 
lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and flour, beat thoroughly, 
cover, and let rise until light. Add rye meal until dough is 
stiff enough to knead; knead thoroughly, let rise, shape in 
loaves, let rise again, and bake. 

Boston Brown Bread. 

One cup of rye meal, one cup granulated cornmeal, three- 
quarter teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoonful of salt, one cup of 
Graham flour, three-quarters cup of molasses, two cups sour 
milk, or one and three-quarter cups sweet milk or water. 

Mix and sift dry ingredients, add molasses and milk, stir 
until well mixed, turn into a well-buttered mold, and steam 
three and one-half hours. The cover should be buttered before 



STANDARD COOKERY. •' 343 

being placed on mold, and then tied down with string; other- 
wise the bread, in rising, might force off cover. Mold should 
never be filled more than two-thirds full. A melon-mold or one 
pound baking-powder boxes make the most attractive-shaped 
loaves, but a five-pound lard pail answers the purpose. For 
steaming, place mold on a trivet in kettle containing boiling 
water, allowing water to come half-way up around mold, cover 
closely, and steam, adding, as needed, more boiling water. 

Bread Dumplings. 
Soak three thick slices of white bread in about a pint of 
broth, squeeze fairly dry, and beat up with a fork. Melt a 
tablespoonful of butter over the fire, add the bread, mix well, 
and season with pepper and salt to taste. When cool stir in 
two well-beaten eggs, a quarter of a grated nutmeg, and a lit- 
tle chopped parsley. Mix well, and then mold into small balls. 
Roll these lightly in flour, boil them lightly in broth for two 
minutes, and serve at once. 

Sweet French Rolls. 

One cup of milk, one yeast cake dissolved in one-quarter of 
a cup of lukewarm water, flour, one-quarter of a cup of sugar, 
one teaspoonful of salt, one egg, yolk of one egg, one-eighth 
of a teaspoonful of mace, one-quarter cup of melted butter. 

Scald milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and 
one and one-half cup of flour; beat well, cover, and let rise 
until light. Add sugar, salt, eggs well beaten, mace, and but- 
ter, and enough more flour to knead; knead, let rise again, 
shape, and bake same as salad rolls, or roll in a long strip to 
one-fourth inch in thickness, spread with butter, roll up like 
jelly roll, and cut in one inch pieces. Place pieces in pan close 
together, flat side down. A few gratings from the rind of a 
lemon or one-half teaspoonful lemon extract may be substi- 
tuted in place of mace. 

Luncheon Rolls. 

One-half cup of scalded milk, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
one-quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, one-half yeast cake dis- 
solved in two tablespoonfuls of lukewarm water, two table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter, one egg, few gratings from rind 
of lemon, flour. 

Add sugar and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add dissolved 
yeast cake and three-fourths cup of flour. Cover and let rise; 
then add butter, egg well beaten, grated rind of lemon, and 
enough flour to knead. Let rise again, roll to one-half inch 



344 STANDARD COOKERY. 

thickness, shape with small biscuit-cutter, place in buttered 
pan close together, let rise again, and bake, 

French Rusks. 

Two cups of scalded milk, one-quarter of a cup of butter, 
one-quarter of a cup of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, one 
yeast cake dissolved in one-quarter of a cup of lukewarm 
water, flour, one egg, yolks of two eggs, whites of two eggs, 
three-quarters of a teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Add butter, sugar, and salt to scalded milk; when lukewarm 
add dissolved yeast cake and three cups of flour. Cover and 
let rise; add egg and egg yolks well beaten, and enough flour 
to knead. Let rise, again, and shape as Parker House rolls. 
Before baking, make three parallel creases on top of each roll. 
When nearly done, brush over with whites of eggs beaten 
slightly, diluted with one tablespoonful of cold water and 
vanilla. Sprinkle with sugar. 

Coffee Cakes. 

One cup of scalded milk, one-quarter cup of yolks of eggs, 
one-half cup of whole eggs, two-thirds cup of butter, one-half 
cup of sugar, two yeast cakes, one-half of a teaspoonful of 
extract of lemon or two pounded cardamom seeds, four and 
two-thirds cups of flour. 

Cool milk, when lukewarm, add yeast cakes, and when they 
are dissolved add remaining ingredients, and beat thoroughly 
with hand ten minutes; let rise six hours. Keep in ice-box 
over night; in morning turn on floured board, roll in long 
rectangular piece one-fourth inch thick; spread with softened 
butter, fold from sides toward center to make three layers. 
Cut off pieces three-fourths inch wide; cover and let rise. 
Take each piece separately in hands and twist from ends in op- 
posite directions, coil and bring ends together at top of cake. 
Let rise in pans and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven; 
cool and brush over with confectioners' sugar, moistened with 
boiling water to spread, and flavored with vanilla. 

Coffee Rolls. 

Two cups of milk, one and a half yeast cakes, butter, lard, 
sugar, flour, one egg, one-half teaspoonful of cinnamon, one 
teaspoonful of salt, melted butter, confectioners' sugar, vanilla. 

Scald milk; when lukewarm add yeast cakes; and as soon 
as dissolved add three and one-half cups of flour. Beat thor- 
oughly, cover, and let rise; then add butter, lard, sugar, egg 



STANDARD COOKERY. 345 

unbeaten, cinnamon, salt, and flour enough to knead. Knead 
until well mixed, cover, and let rise. Turn mixture on a 
floured cloth. Roll into a long, rectangular piece one-fourtK 
inch thick. Brush over with melted butter, fold from ends to- 
ward center to make three layers and cut off pieces three- 
fourths inch wide. Cover and let rise. Take each piece sep- 
arately in hands and twist from ends in opposite directions, 
then shape in a coil. Place in buttered pans, cover, again let 
rise, and bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. Cool 
slightly, and brush over with confectioners' sugar moistened 
with boiling water and flavored with vanilla. 

Dutch Apple Cake. 

One cup of scalded milk, one-third cup of butter, one-third 
cup of sugar, one-third teaspoonful of salt, one yeast cake, 
two eggs, flour, melted butter, five sour apples, one-quarter cup 
of sugar, one-half teaspoonful of cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls 
of currants. 

Mix first four ingredients. When lukewarm, add yeast cake, 
eggs unbeaten, and flour to make a soft dough. Cover, let rise, 
beat thoroughly and again let rise. Spread in a buttered drip- 
ping-pan as thinly as possible, and brush over with melted but- 
ter. Pare, cut in eights, and remove cores from apples. 

Press sharp edges of apples into the dough in parallel rows 
lengthwise of pan. Sprinkle, with sugar mixed with cinna- 
mon, and with currants. Cover, let rise, and bake in a mod- 
erate oven thirty minutes. Cut in squares and serve hot or 
cold with whipped cream sweetened and flavored. 

Buns. 

One cup of scalded milk, one-third cup of butter, one-third 
cup of sugar, one yeast cake dissolved in one-quarter cup luke- 
warm water, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-half cup of 
raisins stoned and cut in quarters, one teaspoonful of lemon 
extract, flour. 

Add one-half sugar and salt to milk; when lukewarm, add 
dissolved yeast cake and one and one-half cups of flour ; cover, 
and let rise until light; add butter, remaining sugar, raisins, 
lemon, and flour to make a dough; let rise, shape like biscuits, 
let rise again, and bake. If wanted glazed, brush over with 
beaten egg before baking. 

Hot Cross Buns. 

One cup of scalded milk, one-quarter cup of sugar, two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-half 



346 STANDARD COOKERY. 

yeast cake dissolved in one-quarter cup lukewarm water, three- 
quarters teaspoonful of cinnamon, three cups of flour, one egg, 
one-quarter cup of raisins stoned and quartered, or one-quarter 
cup currants. 

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk ; when lukewarm, add dis- 
solved yeast cake, cinnamon, flour, and egg well beaten; when 
thoroughly mixed, add raisins, cover, and let rise over night. 
In the morning, shape into buns, place in pan one inch apart, 
let rise, brush over with beaten egg, and bake twenty minutes ; 
cool, and with ornamental frosting make a cross on top of 
each bun. 

Raised Mufiins. 

One cup of scalded milk, one cup boiling water, two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, one-quarter cup of sugar, three-quarters 
teaspoonful of salt, one-quarter yeast cake, one egg, four cups 
flour. 

Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk and water; when luke- 
warm, add yeast cake, and when dissolved, egg well beaten, 
and flour; beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise over night. In 
morning, fill buttered muffin rings two-thirds full ; let rise un- 
til rings are full, and bake thirty minutes in hot oven. 

Grilled Muffins. 
Put buttered muffin rings on a hot greased griddle. Fill one- 
half full with raised muffin mixture, and cook slowly until well 
risen and browned underneath ; turn muffins and rings and 
brown the other side. This is a convenient way of cooking 
muffins when oven is not in condition for baking. 

Raised Hominy Muffins. 

One cup of warm cooked hominy, one-quarter cup butter, 
one cup scalded milk, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, one-half 
teaspoonful salt, one-quarter yeast cake, one-quarter cup luke- 
warm water, three and a quarter cups flour. 

Mix first five ingredients; when lukewarm add yeast cake, 
dissolved in lukewarm water and flour. Cover, and let rise 
over night. In the morning cut down, fill hot buttered gem 
pans two-thirds full, let rise one hour, and bake in a moderate 
oven. Unless cooked hominy is rather stiff more flour will be 
needed. 

Raised Rice Muffins. 

Make same as raised hominy muffins, substituting one cup 
of hot boiled rice in place of hominy, and adding the whites of 
two eggs beaten until stiff. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 347 

Raised Oatmeal Muffins. 

Three-quarters cup of scalded milk, one-quarter cup of 
sugar, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-quarter yeast cake dis- 
solved in one-quarter cup lukewarm milk, one cup cold cooked 
oatmeal, two and a half cups flour. 

Add sugar and salt to scalded milk; when lukewarm, add 
dissolved yeast cake. Work oatmeal into flour with tips of 
fingers, and add to first mixture, beat thoroughly, cover, and 
let rise over night. In morning, fill buttered iron gem pans 
two-thirds full, let rise on back of range that pan may gradually 
heat and mixture rise to fill pan. Bake in moderate oven 
twenty-five to thirty minutes. 

Health Food Muffins. 

One cup warm wheatmush, one-quarter cup brown sugar, 
one-half teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of butter, one- 
quarter yeast cake, one-quarter cup lukewarm water, flour. 

Mix first four ingredients, add yeast cake dissolved in luke- 
warm water, and flour to knead. Cover, and let rise over night. 
In the morning cut down, fill hot buttered gem pans two-thirds 
full and bake in a moderate oven. This mixture, when baked 
in a loaf, makes a delicious bread. 

Squash Biscuits. 

One-half cup squash (steamed and sifted) one-quarter cup 
sugar, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-half cup scalded milk, 
one-quarter yeast cake dissolved in one-quarter cup lukewarm 
water, one-quarter cup butter, two and a half cups flour. 

Add squash, sugar, salt and butter to milk; when lukewarm, 
add dissolved yeast cake and flour ; cover, and let rise over 
night. In morning, shape into biscuits, let rise, and bake. 
Imperial Muffins. 

One cup scalded milk, one-quarter cup sugar, one-half tea- 
spoonful of salt, one-third yeast cake dissolved in one-quarter 
cup lukewarm water, one and three-quarters cup flour, one cup 
cornmeal, one-quarter cup butter. 

Add sugar and salt to milk; when lukewarm add dissolved 
yeast cake, and one and one-fourth cups flour. Cover, and let 
rise until light, then add cornmeal, remaining flour, and butter. 
Let rise over night; in the morning fill buttered muffin rings 
two-thirds full ; let rise until rings are full and bake thirty 
minutes in hot oven. 

Water Toast. 

Dip slices of dry toast quickly in boiling salted water, allow- 



348 STANDARD COOKERY. 

ing one-half teaspoonful of salt to one cup boiling water. 
Spread slices with butter, and serve at once. 

Milk Toast. 

One pint scalded milk, two tablespoonfuls of butter, two and 
a half tablespoonfuls of bread flour, half teaspoonful of salt, 
cold water, six slices dry toast. 

Add cold water gradually to flour to make a smooth, thin 
paste. Add to milk, stirring constantly until thickened, cover, 
and cook twenty minutes; then add salt and butter in small 
pieces. Dip slices of toast separately in sauce; when soft, re- 
move to serving dish. Pour remaining sauce over all. 

Tomato Cream Toast. 

One and a half cups stewed and strained tomato, one-half 
cup scalded cream, one-quarter teaspoonful of soda, three table- 
spoonfuls of butter, three tablespoonfuls of flour, one-half tea- 
spoonful of salt, six slices toast. 

Put butter in saucepan; when melted and bubbling, add flour, 
mixed with salt, and stir in gradually tomato, to which soda 
has been added, then add cream. Dip slices of toast in sauce. 
Serve as soon as made. 

German Toast. 

Three eggs, one-half teaspoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar, one cup milk, six slices stale bread. 

Beat eggs slightly, add salt, sugar and milk ; strain into a 
shallow dish. Soak bread in mixture until soft. Cook on a 
hot, well-greased griddle ; brown on one side, turn and brown 
other side. Serve for breakfast or luncheon, or with a sauce 
for dessert. 

Brewis. 

Break stale bits or slices of brown and white bread in small 
pieces, allowing one and one-half cups brown bread to one- 
half cup white bread. Butter a hot frying-pan, put in bread, 
and cover with equal parts of milk and water. Cook until 
soft; add butter and salt to taste. 

Bread for Garnishing. 

Dry toast is often used for garnishing, cut in variousnshapes. 
Always shape before toasting. Cubes of bread, toast points, 
and small oblong pieces are most common. Cubes of stale 
bread, from which centers are removed, are fried in deep fat 
and called croustades; half-inch cubes, browned in butter, or 
fried in deep fat, are called croutons. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 349 

Cream Scones. 

Two cups of flour, four teaspoonfuls of baking powder, two 
teaspoonfuls of sugar, one-half teaspoonful of salt, four table- 
spoonfuls of butter, two eggs, one-third of a cup of cream. 

Mix and sift together flour, baking powder, sugar and salt. 
Rub in butter with tips of fingers ; add eggs well beaten, and 
cream. Toss on a floured board, pat, and roll to three-fourths 
inch in thickness. Cut in squares, brush with white of egg, 
sprinkle with sugar, and bake in a hot oven fifteen minutes. 

Baking-Powder Biscuit. 

Two cups of flour, four teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one 
teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of lard, three-quarters 
of a cup of milk and water in equal parts, one tablespoonful 
of butter. 

Mix dry ingredients, and sift twice. Work in butter and 
lard with tips of fingers; add gradually the liquid, mixing with 
knife to a soft dough. It is impossible to determine the exact 
amount of liquid, owing to differences in flour. Toss on a 
floured board, pat and roll lightly to one-half inch in thickness. 
Shape with a biscuit cutter. Place on buttered pan, and bake 
in hot oven twelve to fifteen minutes. If baked in too slow an 
oven, the gas will escape before it has done its work. Many 
obtain better results by using bread flour. 

Baking-Powder Biscuit. (Another Method.) 
Two cups of flour, four teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, three-quarters of a cup of milk, one- 
half a teaspoonful of salt. 
Mix and bake as for previous recipe. 

Emergency Biscuit. 
Use recipe for baking-powder biscuit (previous recipe), 
with the addition of more milk, that mixture may be dropped 
from spoon without spreading. Drop by spoonfuls on a but- 
tered pan, one-half inch apart. Brush over with milk, and 
bake in hot oven eight minutes. 

Mountain Muffins. 

One-i^aarter cup of butter, one-quarter cup of sugar, one 
egg, one-quarter cup of milk, two cups of flour, three teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder. 

Cream the butter; add sugar and egg well beaten; sift bak- 
ing powder with flour, and add to the first mixture, alternating 
with milk. Bake in buttered tin gem pans twenty-five minutes. 



350 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Rye Muffins. 

One and a quarter cups of rye meal, one and a quarter cups 
of flour, four teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful 
of salt, one-quarter cup of molasses, one and a quarter cups 
of milk, one egg, one tablespoonful of melted butter. 

Mix and bake as Mountain muffins, adding molasses with 
milk. 

Rye Gems. 

One and two-thirds cups of rye flour, one and a third cups 
of flour, four teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful 
of salt, one-quarter cup of molasses, one and a quarter cups 
of milk, two eggs, three tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 

Mix and sift dry ingredients, add molasses, milk, eggs well 
beaten, and butter. Bake in hot oven in buttered gem pans 
twenty-five minutes. 

Cornmeal Gems. 

One-fialf a cup of cornmeal, one cup of flour, three teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder, one tablespoonful of sugar, one table- 
spoonful of melted butter, one-half a teaspoonful of salt, three- 
quarters of a cup of milk, one egg. 

Mix and bake as Mountain muffins. 

Hominy Gems. 

One-quarter cup of hominy, one-half a teaspoonful of salt, 
one-half a cup boiling water, one cup scalded milk, one cup 
cornmeal, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, three tablespoonfuls 
of butter, two eggs, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

Add hominy mixed with salt to boiling water and let stand 
until hominy absorbs water. Add scalded milk to cornmeal, 
then add sugar and butter. Combine mixtures, cool slightly, 
add yolks of eggs beaten until thick, and whites of eggs beaten 
until stiff. Sift in baking powder and beat thoroughly. Bake 
in hot buttered gem pans. 

Berkshire Muffins. 

One-half a cup of cornmeal, one-half cup of flour, one-half 
a cup of cooked rice, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, one-half a 
teaspoonful of salt, two-thirds cup of scalded milk (scant), 
one egg, one tablespoonful of melted butter, three teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder. 

Turn scalded milk on meal, let stand five minutes ; add rice 
and flour mixed, and stiffen with remaining dry ingredients. 
Add yolk of egg well beaten, butter, and white of egg beaten 
stiff and dry. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 351 

Golden Corn Cake. 

One-quarter of a cup of cornmeal, one and a quarter cups 
of flour, one-quarter cup of sugar, five teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder, one-half a teaspoonful of salt, one cup of milk, one 
egg, one or two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 

Mix and sift dry ingredients; add milk, egg well beaten, and 
butter; bake in shallow buttered pan in hot oven twenty min- 
utes. 

Corn Cake (Sweetened with Molasses). 

One cup of cornmeal, three-quarters of a cup of flour, three 
and a half teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of 
salt, one-quarter cup of molasses, three-quarters of a cup of 
milk, one egg, one tablespoonful of melted butter. 

Mix and bake as golden corn cake, adding molasses to milk. 

White Corn Cake. 

One-quarter cup of butter, one-half cup of sugar, one and 
one-third cups of milk, whites of three eggs, one and a quarter 
cups of white cornmeal, one and a quarter cups of flour, four 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of salt. 

Cream the butter; add sugar gradually; add milk, alternat- 
ing with dry ingredients, mixed and sifted. Beat thoroughly; 
add whites of eggs beaten stifif. Bake in buttered cake pan 
thirty minutes. 

White Cornmeal Cake. 

One cup of scalded milk, one-half cup of white cornmeal, 
one teaspoonful of salt. 

Add salt to cornmeal, and gradually pour on milk. Turn 
into a buttered shallow pan to the depth of one-fourth inch. 
Bake in a moderate oven until crisp. Split and spread with 
butter. 

Pop-overs. 

One cup of flour, one-quarter teaspoonful of salt, seven- 
eighths of a cup of milk, two eggs, one-half a teaspoonful of 
melted butter. 

Mix salt and flour; add milk gradually, in order to obtain a 
smooth batter. Add egg beaten until light, and butter; beat 
two minutes — using Dover egg-beater — turn into hissing hot 
buttered iron gem pans, and bake thirty to thirty-five minutes 
in a hot oven. They may be baked in buttered earthen cups, 
when the bottom will have a glazed appearance. Small round 
iron gem pans are best for pop-overs. 



352 STANDARD COOKERY. 

GRIDDLE CAKES. 
Sour Milk Griddle Cakes. 

Two and a half cups of flour, one-half a teaspoonful of 
salt, two cups of sour milk, one and a quarter teaspoonfuls of 
soda, one egg. 

Mix and sift flour, salt, and soda; add sour milk, and egg 
well beaten. Drop by spoonfuls on a greased hot griddle; 
cook on one side. When puffed, full of bubbles, and cooked 
on edges, turn, and cook other side. Serve with butter and 
maple syrup. 

Sweet Milk Griddle Cakes. 

Three cups of flour, one and a half tablespoonfuls of baking 
powder, one teaspoonful of salt, one-quarter of a cup of sugar, 
two cups of milk, one egg, two tablespoonfuls of melted but- 
ter. 

Mix and sift dry ingredients; beat egg, add milk, and pour 
slowly on first mixture. Beat thoroughly, and add butter. 
Cook same as sour milk griddle-cakes. Begin cooking cakes 
at once or more baking powder will be required. 

Entire Wheat Griddle Cakes. 

One-half cup of entire wheat flour, one cup of flour, three 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one-half a teaspoonful of salt, 
three tablespoonfuls of sugar, one egg, one and a quarter cups 
of milk, one tablespoonful of melted butter. 

Prepare and cook same as sweet milk griddle cakes. 

Corn Griddle Cakes. 

Two cups of flour, one-half cup of cornmeal, one and a 
half tablespoonfuls of baking powder, one and a half tea- 
spoonfuls of salt, one-third cup of sugar, one and a half cups 
boiling water, one and a quarter cups of milk, one egg, two 
tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 

Add meal to boiling water, and boil five minutes; turn into 
bowl, add milk, and remaining dry ingredients, mixed and 
sifted, then the egg well beaten, and butter. Cook same as 
other griddle cakes. 

Rice Griddle Cakes. 

Two and a half cups of flour, one-half cup cold cooked rice, 
one tablespoonful of baking powder, one-half teaspoonful of 
salt, one-quarter cup of sugar, one and a half cups of milk, 
one egg, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 

Mix and sift dry ingredients. Work in rice with tips of 



STANDARD COOKERY. 353 

fingers; add egg well beaten, milk, and butter. Cook same as 
other griddle cakes. 

Rice Griddle Cakes. (Another Method.) 

One cup of milk, one cup of warm boiled rice, one-half tea- 
spoonful of salt, yolks of two eggs, whites of two eggs, one 
tablespoonful of melted butter, seven-eighths cup of flour. 

Pour milk over rice and salt, add yolks of eggs beaten un- 
til thick and lemon color, butter, flour and fold in whites of 
eggs beaten until stiff and dry. 

Bread Griddle Cakes. 

One and a half cups of fine stale breadcrumbs, one and a 
half cups of scalded milk, two tablespoonfuls of butter, two 
eggs, one-half cup of flour, one-half teaspoonful of salt, four 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

Add milk and butter to crumbs, and soak until crumbs are 
soft ; add eggs well beaten, then flour, salt, and baking pow- 
der, mixed and sifted. Cook same as other griddle cakes. 

Soyer's Cake Without Flour. 

One pound ground sweet almonds, one-half pound of but- 
ter, one pound of sugar, ten yolks of eggs, three ounces of 
arrowroot fecule, ten whites of eggs. Flavor as to taste. 

Mix up butter, sugar, almonds and yolks of eggs altogether 
with the flavor. Beat it up well, then mix up the arrowroot, 
then beat the whites of eggs very stiff. Mix up gently as for 
sponge cake. Have your mold well buttered. Pour the mix- 
ture in half the mold and bake it slowly in a paper bag, or 
otherwise. With this mixture you can cook it in small bak- 
ing-sheets buttered in the same way. Lay the mixture about 
one inch thick and cook slowly. With this you can make any 
cake or dessert by cutting it in any shape you wish, and, 
iced in any color you fancy and any flavor. 

Ginger Bread. 

One pound of flour, one pound of treacle, one-quarter pound 
of butter, one ounce of ginger, some candied peel, a few car- 
raway seeds ground, a teaspoonful of soda. To be baked in 
a slow oven. Flour to be mixed in gradually, the butter and 
treacle to be milk-warm. The soda to be put in last. Let it 
stand half an hour to rise. 

Spice Cake. 

Place in an enameled saucepan a pint of golden syrup, one- 
half pound of fresh butter, the grated rind of one lemon, 



354 STANDARD COOKERY. 

half an ounce of allspice and powdered ginger, with a tea- 
spoonful of mixed coriander and aniseed, and blend thor- 
oughly over the fire, but do not let it get too hot. Now add 
sufficient flour to make a fairly thick dough, and let it stand 
for a time in a cool place. Blend with it two ounces each of 
chopped candied peel and cherries, with an ounce of currants, 
and roll out till an inch thick. Then cut into squares and 
bake in a brisk oven. 

This is the cake that one sees everywhere at the fairs in 
country towns, cut into the shape of pigs, fish, etc., and orna- 
mented with sugar piping. 

Butter Cakes. 

Mix two cupfuls of sugar with half a pound of melted but- 
ter, add seven beaten eggs, and blend with three pounds of 
flour and half a pint of milk. Thoroughly beat the whole, 
spread thinly on buttered pans or baking dishes and let it 
rise. When sufficiently risen, brush the surface with melted 
butter and sprinkle freely with sugar, grated cinnamon, and 
chopped almonds. Then bake until done. 

Serve hot for luncheon or tea. 

Wonders. 

Beat a quarter of a pound of melted butter with the same 
quantity of sifted sugar until it forms a cream. Now blend 
with three whipped eggs, one pound of flour, and a little grated 
nutmeg. Mix thoroughly and set aside for a time. After it 
has risen, roll out lightly and cut into rounds. Two slits are 
next cut across the center of each cake and the side pieces 
twisted through each other without breaking them. Throw 
into boiling fat until done. Dust well with sugar before serv- 
ing. 

Cheese Wafers. 

Blend half a pound of Gruyere or other mild cheese with the 
same quantity of butter until it is thoroughly smooth. Then 
add four beaten eggs, a little water, and sufficient flour to make 
a rather stiff paste. After well rolling, cut the paste into thin 
sticks about half an inch wide, and bake in a hot oven until 
well browned. 

These wafers are usually eaten very hot with fruit or salad. 
Brioches. 

Mix a quarter of a pound of flour and a quarter of an ounce 
of German yeast with sufficient water to make a stifif paste. 
After well kneading form it into a ball and place it in a large 



STANDARD COOKERY. 355 

bowl of warm water near a fire. Now take another quarter of 
a pound of flour and mix thoroughly with the same weight of 
butter, a tablespoonful of water, a pinch of salt, and a spoonful 
of sugar. Beat the whole thoroughly and add gradually two 
eggs to the dough. Care must be taken that this dough is 
thoroughly light, and with this object the French housewife 
generally throws it on the table a few times. 

Next take out of the water the ball of paste, place it on the 
top of the dough and roll both together several times. Let it 
now stand for two hours in a cool place to rise, and then bake 
it for three-quarters of an hour, glazing the top with a little 
egg. On turning out dust well with sugar. 

This is an extremely dainty cake and is very popular through- 
out France, although it is rather troublesome to make. 

Grecian Easter Cakes. 

Thoroughly mix four ounces of butter with the same quan- 
tity of sugar, and blend with half a pound of flour, adding 
four beaten eggs, a cupful of milk, and an ounce and a half of 
yeast. After rising for two hours form into the shape of a 
triangle or a large fleur-de-lys — to symbolize the Trinity — 
cover thickly with sifted sugar and bake for an hour. 

Lemon Twists. 
Mix three ounces of flour with the yolks of five eggs and 
sufficient water to make a paste. Flavor with the juice and 
the grated rind of a lemon and a pinch of salt. After standing 
for half an hour roll the paste out very thin, cut it into strips, 
twist them into curls, and fry in boiling fat. Dust with castor 
sugar and serve very hot, with jam. 

Sparrow Cakes. 

Make a thick batter of flour, eggs, and milk, and flavor with 
a little salt. Beat thoroughly and then sprinkle it or pour it 
slowly through a colander into a pan of boiling fat so that the 
batter falls in separate drops. Cook for five minutes, then 
drain carefully from the fat, sprinkle with powdered sugar and 
serve. 

Sparrow cake? are mainly used as a garnish with dessert. 
Another method is to cook them in water instead of oil, and 
then roll in finely-grated breadcrumbs and brown in the oven; 
but this does not give such a good result. 

Honey Cakes. 

Boil an ounce of sugar in two cupfuls of honey, and then 



356 STANDARD COOKERY. 

add a quarter of a pound of finely-chopped almonds. After 
simmering for another five minutes add half a pound of 
chopped candied peel, the grated rind of a lemon, a teaspoon- 
ful of powdered cinnamon, a pinch of powdered cloves, half a 
nutmeg grated, as much bicarbonate of soda as will stand on a 
shilling, and a tablespoonful of rum. Add enough flour to 
stiffen, and after thoroughly mixing cut the paste into pieces 
about three inches square, and roll out very thin. Bake in a 
slow oven, and when cool sprinkle well with sifted sugar. 

Sponge Cake Tarts. 

Take some sponge cakes, scoop out the centers, and roll 
them first in jam and then in chopped almonds or other nuts. 
In the hollow of each place a layer of whipped cream sweet- 
ened with sifted sugar, and on this lay half a stewed peach. 
Canned ones will serve the purpose. 

These are eaten cold for dessert or at afternoon tea, and are 
quickly made in case of an unexpected demand. 

Rum Rings. 

Sift twelve ounces of the finest flour, and mix thoroughly 
with half a pound of butter and the crumbled yolks of four 
hard-boiled eggs. When well blended add a quarter of a pound 
of castor sugar and a liquor-glassful of Kirsch, or rum, with 
just enough milk to make the whole into a stiff dough, being 
particularly careful not to make this dough too moist. The 
dough should now be rolled out rather thin and cut into rings. 
Put these on a buttered plate or baking tin, brush the surface 
with a little sweetened milk, and sprinkle with grated almonds. 
Bake in a moderate oven until done. The time will vary with 
the thickness and size of the cakes. They should be kept two 
or three days in a tin before eating. 

Rum Fingers. 

Whisk three eggs with seven ounces of castor sugar until 
thoroughly creamed, and gradually add a small glass of rum 
and a little grated lemon peel. Now blend thoroughly with 
half a pound of fine flour and three ounces of butter (melted), 
and when the whole is worked up to a cream set it aside for 
ten or twelve hours. Then shape the cream into fingers and 
fry them in butter till lightly browned, after which great care 
must be taken to drain them thoroughly before they cool. 

They are usually eaten cold, dusted over with sifted sugar. 
Supper Cakes. 

Mix sufficient flour with a pint of hot milk and a little yeast 



STANDARD COOKERY. 357 

to make a dough, and let it remain over night to rise. In the 
morning cream two eggs and a quarter of a pound of butter 
with a cupful of sifted sugar, and beat thoroughly into the 
dough, which should be again left for a while to rise. Now 
pour it into some pie plates, adding a little more flour if it 
appears too soft, and leave for a time in a warm place. Next 
brush the surface of each cake with some melted butter, and 
sprinkle thickly with powdered cinnamon and castor sugar 
mixed, and then bake in a hot oven. 

These cakes are always cut into slices and eaten warm. 
Afternoon Cakes. 

Take three cupfuls of flour, and one cupful of milk, two 
ounces of butter, three eggs, a cupful of sugar, and the same 
quantity of minced raisins, currants, and citron in equal parts, 
and two tablespoonfuls of baking powder. Mix thoroughly, 
flavor with cinnamon, and bake in small buttered pans. 

These cakes are usually eaten warm with chocolate. 

Aniseed Cakes. 

Beat four eggs for ten minutes with one pound of sifted 
sugar, and let stand for an hour, after which add a teaspoon- 
ful of hartshorn and a tablespoonful of essence of lemon. Mix 
with sufficient flour to make a fairly stiff paste. About two 
pounds will be needed. Divide this into two or more por- 
tions, according to the size of the cakes desired, and leave it 
aside over night. In the morning sprinkle the buttered cake- 
tins with aniseed before placing the dough in them. Bake in a 
brisk oven but watch that the cakes do not burn. 

Buckwheat Cakes. 

One-third cup of fine breadcrumbs, two cups of scalded 
milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-quarter yeast cake, one- 
half cup of lukewarm water, one and three-quarter cups of 
buckwheat flour, one tablespoonful of molasses. 

Pour milk over crumbs, and soak thirty minutes ; add salt, 
yeast cake dissolved in lukewarm water, and buckwheat to 
make a batter thin enough to pour. Let rise over night; in 
the morning, stir well, add molasses, one-fourth teaspoonful of 
soda dissolved in one-fourth cup of lukewarm water, and cook 
same as griddle cakes. Save enough batter to raise another 
mixing, instead of using yeast cake; it will require one-half 
cup. 

Waffles. 

One and three-quarter cups of flour, three teaspoonfuls of 



358 STANDARD COOKERY. 

baking powder, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one cup of milk, 
yolks of two eggs, whites of two eggs, one tablespoonful of 
melted butter. 

Mix and sift dry ingredients; add milk gradually, yolks of 
eggs well beaten, butter and whites of eggs beaten stiff; cook 
on a greased hot waffle-iron. Serve with maple syrup. 

A waffle-iron should fit closely on range, be well heated on 
one side, turned, heated on other side, and thoroughly greased 
before iron is filled. In filling, put a tablespoonful of mixture 
in each compartment near center of iron, cover, and mixture 
will spread to just fill iron. If sufficiently heated, it should be 
turned almost as soon as filled and covered. In using a new 
iron, special care must be taken in greasing, or waffles will 
stick. 

Waffles with Boiled Cider. 

Follow directions for making waffles. Serve with boiled 
cider. Allow twice as much cider as sugar, and let boil un- 
til of a syrup consistency. 

Virginia WafHes. 

One and a half cups of boiling water, one-half cup of white 
cornmeal, one and a half cups of milk, three cups of flour, 
three tablespoonfuls of sugar, one and a quarter tablespoonfuls 
of baking powder, one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt, yolks of 
two eggs, whites of two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter. 

Cook meal in boiling water twenty minutes; add milk, dry 
ingredients mixed and sifted, yolks of eggs well beaten, butter, 
and whites of eggs beaten stiff. Cook same as waffles. 

Raised Waffles. 

One and three-quarters cup of milk, one teaspoonful of salt, 
one tablespoonful of butter, one-quarter of yeast cake, one- 
quarter of a cup of lukewarm water, two cups of flour, yolks of 
two eggs, whites of two eggs. 

Scald milk ; add salt and butter, and when lukewarm, add 
yeast cake dissolved in water and flour. Beat well ; let rise 
over night ; add yolks of eggs well beaten, and whites of eggs 
beaten stiff. Cook same as waffles. By using a whole yeast 
cake the mixture will rise in one and one-half hours. 

Fried Drop Cakes. 

One and one-third cups of flour, two and one-half teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder, one-quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, 



STANDARD COOKERY. 359 

one-third of a cup of sugar, one-half cup of milk, one egg, one 
teaspoonful of melted butter. 

Beat egg until light ; add milk, dry ingredients mixed and 
sifted, and melted butter. Drop by spoonfuls in hot, new, deep 
fat; fry until light brown and cooked through, which must at 
first be determined by piercing with a skewer, or breaking 
apart. Remove with a skimmer, and drain on brown paper. 

Rye Drop Cakes. 

Two-thirds of a cup of rye meal, two-thirds of a cup of 
flour, two and one-half teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one- 
half teaspoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of molasses, one- 
half cup of milk, one egg. 

Mix and siit dry ingredients; add milk gradually, molasses, 
and egg well beaten. Cook same as fried drop cakes. 

Raised Doughnuts. 

One cup of milk, one-quarter of yeast cake, one-quarter of a 
cup of lukewarm water, one teaspoonful of salt, one-third of a 
cup of butter and lard mixed, one cup of light brown sugar, 
two eggs, one-half a grated nutmeg, flour. 

Scald and cool milk; when lukewarm, add yeast cake dis- 
solved in water, salt, and flour enough to make a stiff batter; 
let rise over night. In morning, add shortening melted, sugar, 
eggs well beaten, nutmeg, and enough flour to make a stiff 
dough; let rise again, and if too soft to handle, add more flour. 
Toss on floured board, pat, and roll to three-fourths inch thick- 
ness. Shape with cutter and work between hands until round. 
Place on floured board, let rise one hour, turn, and let rise 
again; fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Cool, and 
roll in powdered sugar. 

Doughnuts. 

One cup of sugar, two and a half tablespoonfuls of butter, 
three eggs, one cup of milk, four teaspoonfuls of baking pow- 
der, one-quarter of a teaspoonful of cinnamon, one-quarter of a 
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, one and a half teaspoonful of 
salt, flour to roll. 

Cream the butter, and add one-half of the sugar. Beat egg 
until light, add remaining sugar, and combine mixtures. Add 
three and one-half cups of flour, mixed and sifted with bak- 
ing powder, salt, and spices ; then enough more flour to make 
dough stiff" enough to roll. Toss one-third of mixture on 
floured board, knead slightly, pat, and roll out to one-fourth 
inch thickness. Shape with a doughnut cutter, fry in deep 



36o STANDARD COOKERY. 

fat, take up on a skewer, and drain on brown paper. Add 
trimmings to one-half remaining mixture, roll, shape, and fry 
as before; repeat. Doughnuts should come quickly to top of 
fat, brown on one side, then be turned to brown on the other; 
avoid turning more than once. The fat must be kept at a 
uniform temperature. If too cold, doughnuts will absorb fat; 
if too hot, doughnuts will brown before sufficiently risen. 

Doughnuts. (Another Method.) 

Four cupfuls of flour, one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt, 
one and three-quarter teaspoonfuls of soda, one and three- 
quarter teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one-quarter of a tea- 
spoonful of grated nutmeg, one-quarter of a teaspoonful of 
cinnamon, one-half tablespoonful of butter, one cup of sugar, 
one cup of sour milk, one egg. 

Put flour in shallow pan, add salt, soda, cream of tartar, and 
spices. Work in butter with tips of fingers, add sugar, egg 
■well beaten, and sour milk. Stir thoroughly and toss on board 
thickly dredged with flour; knead slightly, using more flour if 
necessary. Pat and roll out to one-fourth inch thickness, 
shape, fry, and drain. Sour milk doughnuts may be turned as 
soon as they come to top of fat, and frequently afterwards. 

Doughnuts. (Another Method.) 

Two cups of sugar, four eggs, one and one-third cups of 
sour milk, four tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two teaspoon- 
fuls of soda, two teaspoonfuls of salt, two teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing powder, one teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. Flour. 

Mix ingredients in order given; shape, fry, and drain as 
previously described. 

Crullers. 

One-quarter of a cup of butter, one cup of sugar, yolks of 
two eggs, whites of two eggs, four cups of flour, one-quarter 
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, three and a half teaspoonfuls of 
baking powder, one cup of milk, powdered sugar and cinna- 
mon. 

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, yolks of eggs well 
beaten, and whites of eggs beaten stiff. Mix flour, nutmeg 
and baking powder; add alternately with milk to first mixture, 
toss on floured board, roll thin, and cut in pieces three inches 
long by two inches wide; make four one-inch parallel gashes 
crosswise at equal intervals. Take up by running finger in 
and out of gashes, and lower into deep fat. Fry as described 
P- 359- 




.r^ 2 2 i 



< 

'J-. K 



STANDARD COOKERY. 361 



CAKE FILLINGS, FROSTINGS AND 
ICINGS. 

To Make Cream Filling. 

Take one and a half cups of sugar, one and a quarter cups 
of flour, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, four eggs, four 
cups of scalded milk, two teaspoonfuls of vanilla or one tea- 
spoonful of lemon extract. 

Mix the dry ingredients, add eggs slightly beaten, and pour 
on gradually the scalded milk. Cook fifteen minutes in double 
boiler, stirring constantly until thickened, afterwards occa- 
sionally. Cool and flavor. 

Chocolate Cream. Filling. 
Put one and a quarter squares of bakers' chocolate in a 
saucepan and melt over hot water. Add to above cream filling, 
using in making two cups of sugar in place of one and a half 
cups. 

Coffee Cream Filling. 
Flavor cream filling with one and one-half tablespoonfuls oi 
coffee extract. 

French Cream Filling. 

One and one-half cups of thick cream, one-half cup of milk, 
one-half cup powdered sugar, whites of two eggs, one teaspoon- 
ful of vanilla. 

Dilute cream with milk and beat until stiff, using Dover egg- 
beater. Add sugar, white of egg beaten until stiff, and vanilla. 

Strawberry Filling. 

Two cups of thick cream, one cup of sugar, whites of two 
eggs, one cup of strawberries, one teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Beat cream until stiff — Dover egg-beater — add sugar, 
whites of eggs beaten until stiff, strawberries mashed, and 
vanilla. 

Lemon Filling. 

Two cups of sugar, five tablespoonfuls of flour, the grated 
rind of four lemons, one-half cup lemon juice, two eggs, two 
teaspoonfuls of butter. 

Mix sugar and flour, add grated rind, lemon juice, and egg 



362 STANDARD COOKERY. 

slightly beaten. Put butter in saucepan; when melted, add 
mixture, and stir constantly until boiling-point is reached. 
Care must be taken that mixture does not adhere to bottom of 
saucepan. Cool before spreading. 

Orange Filling. 

One cup of sugar, five tablespoonfuls of flour, grated rind of 
one orange, one-half cup orange juice, one tablespoonful of 
lemon juice, two eggs slightly beaten, two teaspoonfuls of but- 
ter. 

Mix ingredients in order given. Cook ten minutes in double 
boiler, stirring constantly. Cool before spreading. 

Chocolate Filling. 

Five squares of chocolate, two cups of powdered sugar, six 
tablespoonfuls of milk, yolks of two eggs, one teaspoonful of 
vanilla. 

Melt chocolate over hot water, add one-half the sugar and 
milk; add remaining sugar, and yolk of egg; then cook in 
double boiler until it thickens, stirring constantly at first, that 
mixture may be perfectly smooth. Cool slightly, flavor, and 
spread. 

Nut or Fruit Filling. 

To white mountain cream add chopped walnuts, almonds, 
figs, dates, or raisins, separately or in combination. 

Cocoanut Filling. 

"Whites of four eggs, fresh grated cocoanut, powdered sugar. 

Beat whites of eggs on a platter with a fork until stiff. Add 
enough powdered sugar to spread. Spread over cake, sprinkle 
thickly with cocoanut. Use for layer cake, having filling be- 
tween and on top. 

Lemon Cocoanut Cream. 

Juice and grated rind of two lemons, two cups of powdered 
sugar, yolks of four eggs, two cups of shredded cocoanut. 

Mix lemon juice and rind with sugar and yolks of eggs 
slightly beaten; cook ten minutes in double boiler, stirring 
constantly; then add cocoanut. Cool, and use as a filling for 
corn-starch cake, or any cake made from the whites of eggs. 

Fig Filling. 

One pound of figs, finely chopped, one cup sugar, one cup 
of boiling water, two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. 

Mix ingredients in the order given and cook in double boiler 
until thick enough to spread. Spread while hot. Figs may be 



STANDARD COOKERY. 363 

chopped quickly by forcing through a meat chopper, stirring 
occasionally. 

Marshmallow Paste. 

One and a half cups of sugar, one-half cup of milk, half- 
pound marshmallows, four tablespoonfuls of hot water, one 
teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Put sugar and milk in a saucepan, heat slowly to boiling- 
point without stirring, and boil six minutes. Break marsh- 
mallows in pieces and melt in double boiler, add hot water, 
and cook until mixture is smooth, then add hot syrup gradually, 
stirring constantly. Beat until cool enough to spread, then add 
vanilla. This may be used for both filling and frosting. 

Pistachio Paste. 

To marshmallow paste add a few drops extract of almond, 
one-third cup of pistachio nuts blanched and chopped, and leaf 
green to color. Use same as marshmallow paste. 

Prune Almund Filling. 
To white mountain cream add one cup of selected prunes, 
stoned and cut in pieces, and one-third cup of almonds blanched 
and chopped. 

Confectioners* Frosting. 

Four tablespoonfuls boiling water, one cupful of cream, con- 
fectioners' sugar, flavoring. 

To liquid add enough sifted sugar to make of right con- 
sistency to spread; then add flavoring. Fresh fruit juice may 
be used in place of boiling water. This is a most satisfactory 
frosting, and is both easily and quickly made. 

Orange Frosting. 

Grated rind of two oranges, two teaspoonfuls of brandy, 
one teaspoonful of lemon juice, two tablespoonfuls of orange 
juice, yolks of two eggs, confectioners' sugar. 

Add rind to brandy and fruit juices; let stand fifteen min- 
utes. Strain, and add gradually to yolk of egg slightly beaten. 
Stir in confectioners' sugar until of right consistency to 
spread. 

Gelatine Frosting. 

Five tablespoonfuls of boiling water, one teaspoonful of 
granulated gelatine, one teaspoonful of vanilla, one and a half 
cups of confectioners' sugar. 

Dissolve gelatine in boiling water. Add sugar and flavoring 



364 STANDARD COOKERY. 

and beat until of right consistency to spread. Crease in 
squares when slightly hardened. 

Plain Frosting. 

Whites of two eggs, four teaspoon fuls of cold water, one 
and a half cups of confectioners' sugar, one teaspoonful of 
vanilla or one tablespoonful of lemon juice. 

Beat whites of eggs until stiff; add water and sugar. Beat 
thoroughly, then add flavoring. Use more sugar if needed- 
Spread with a broad-bladed knife. 

Chocolate Frosting (I). 

Three squares of chocolate, one cup of scalded cream, few 
grains salt, yolks of two eggs, one teaspoonful of melted but- 
ter, confectioners' sugar, one teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Melt chocolate over hot water, add cream gradually, salt, 
yolks of eggs, and butter. Stir in confectioners' sugar until 
of right consistency to spread; then add flavoring. 

Chocolate Frosting (II). 

Three and a half cups of sugar, one and a half cups of 
hot water, eight squares of chocolate, melted, one teaspoonful 
of vanilla. 

Boil sugar and water, without stirring, until syrup will 
thread when dropped from tip of spoon. Pour syrup gradually 
on melted chocolate, and continue beating until of right con- 
sistency to spread; then add flavoring. 

Chocolate Frosting (III). 

Four squares of chocolate, two teaspoonfuls of butter, six 
tablespoonfuls of hot water, confectioners' sugar, half a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla. 

Melt chocolate over boiling water, add butter and hot 
water. Cool, and add sugar to make of right consistency to 
spread. Flavor with vanilla. 

White Mountain Cream. 

Two cups of sugar, two cups of boiling water, six whites of 
eggs, two teaspoonfuls of vanilla or one tablespoonful of lemon 
juice. 

Put sugar and water in saucepan, and stir to prevent sugar 
from adhering to saucepan ; heat gradually to boiling-point 
and boil without stirring until syrup will thread when dropped 
from tip of spoon or tines of silver fork. Pour syrup gradu- 
ally on beaten white of egg, beating mixture constantly, and 
continue beating until of right consistency to spread; then add 



STANDARD COOKERY. 365 

flavoring and pour over cake, spreading evenly with back of 
spoon. Crease as soon as firm. If not beaten long enough, 
frosting will run; if beaten too long, it will not be smooth. 
Frosting beaten too long may be improved by adding a few 
drops of lemon juice or boiling water. This frosting is soft 
inside, and has a glossy surface. If frosting is to be orna- 
mented with nuts or candied cherries, j)lace them on frosting 
as soon as spread. 

Ice Cream Frosting. 
Four cups of sugar, twelve tablespoonfuls of water, whites 
of four eggs, one teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Follow directions for white mountain cream. 

Boiled Frosting. 

Two cups of sugar, one cup of water, whites of four eggs, 
two teaspoonfuls of vanilla, or one tablespoonful of lemon 
juice. 

Make same as white mountain cream. This frosting, on 
account of the larger quantity of egg, does not stiffen so 
quickly as white mountain cream, therefore is more success- 
fully made by the inexperienced. 

Boiled Chocolate Frosting. 
To white mountain cream or boiled frosting add one and 
one-half squares of melted chocolate as soon as syrup is added 
to whites of eggs. 

Brown Frosting. 
Make same as boiled frosting, using brown sugar in place 
of white sugar. 

Maple Sugar Frosting. 

Two pounds of soft maple sugar, one cup boiling water, 
whites of four eggs. 

Break sugar in small pieces, put in saucepan with boiling 
water, and stir occasionally until sugar is dissolved. Boil 
without stirring until syrup will thread when dropped from tip 
of spoon. Pour syrup gradually on beaten whites, beating 
mixture constantly and continue beating until of right con- 
sistency to spread. 

Cream Maple Sugar Frosting. 

Two pounds of soft maple sugar, two cups of cream. 
Break sugar in small pieces, put in saucepan with cream, 
and stir occasionally until sugar is dissolved. Boil without 



2,66 STANDARD COOKERY. 

stirring until a ball can be formed when mixture is tried in 
cold water. Beat until of right consistency to spread. 

Milk Frosting. 

Three cups of sugar, one cup of milk, two teaspoonfuls of 
butter, one teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Put butter in saucepan; when melted, add sugar and milk. 
Stir, to be sure that sugar does not adhere to saucepan, heat 
to boiling-point, and boil without stirring thirteen minutes. 
Remove from fire, and beat until of right consistency to spread; 
then add flavoring and pour over cake, spreading evenly with 
back of spoon. Crease as soon as firm. 

Caramel Frosting (I). 
Make same as milk frosting, adding one and one-half squares 
of melted chocolate as soon as boiling-point is reached, and 
flavoring with one-eighth teaspoonful of cinnamon. 

Caramel Frosting (II). 

One-third cup of sugar, two-thirds cup of grated maple 
sugar, one cup of butter, two-thirds cup of cream. 

Mix ingredients and boil thirteen minutes. Beat until of 
right consistency to spread. 

Nut Caramel Frosting. 

Two and a half cups of brown sugar, two teaspoonfuls of 
vanilla, half a cup of white sugar, whites of four eggs, half 
a cup of English walnut meats, broken in pieces. 

Boil sugar and water as for white mountain cream. Pour 
gradually, while beating constantly, on beaten whites of eggs, 
and continue the beating until mixture is nearly cooked. Set 
pan containing mixture in pan of boiling water, and cook 
over range, stirring constantly, until mixture becomes granu- 
lar around edge of pan. Remove from pan of hot water and 
beat, using a spoon, until mixture will hold its shape. Add 
nuts and vanilla, pour on cake, and spread with back of spoon, 
leaving a rough surface. 

Opera Caramel Frosting. 

Three cups of brown sugar, one and a half cups of thin 
cream, one tablespoonful of butter. 

Boil ingredients together in a smooth granite saucepan until 
a ball can be formed, when mixture is tried in cold water. 
It takes about forty minutes for boiling. Beat until of right 
consistency to spread. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 367 

Chocolate Fudge Frosting. 

Three tablespoonfuls of butter, one cup of unsweetened pow- 
dered cocoa, two and a half cups of confectioners' sugar, few 
grains of salt, half cup of milk, one teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Melt butter, add cocoa, sugar, salt and milk. Heat to boil- 
ing-point, and boil about eight minutes. Remove from fire 
and beat until creamy. Add vanilla and pour over cake. 

Mocha Frosting. 

One cup of butter, three cups of confectioners' sugar, two 
tablespoonfuls of breakfast cocoa, coffee infusion. 

Cream butter, and add sugar gradually, continuing the beat- 
ing; then add cocoa and coffee infusion, drop by drop, until of 
right consistency to spread, or force through a pastry bag and 
tube. 

Fondant Icing. 

The mixture in which small cakes are dipped for icing is 
fondant, the recipe for which may be found in chapter on 
Confections. Cakes for dipping must first be glazed. 

To Glaze Cakes. — Beat white of one egg slightly and add 
one tablespoonful of powdered sugar. Apply with a brush to 
top and sides of cakes. After glazing, cakes should stand over- 
night before dipping. 

To Dip Cakes. — Melt fondant over hot water, and color 
and flavor as desired. Stir, to prevent crust from forming on 
top. Take cake to be dipped on a three-tined fork and lower 
in fondant three-fourths the depth of cake. Remove from 
fondant, invert, and slip from fork to a board. Decorate with 
ornamented frosting and nut meat, candied cherries, angelica, 
or candied violets. For small ornamented cakes, pound cake 
mixture is baked a little more than one inch thick in shallow 
pans, and when cool cut in squares, diamonds, triangles, circles, 
crescents, etc. 

Marshmallow Frosting 
Melt one cup white fondant, add the white of one egg beaten 
until stiff, and stir over the fire two minutes. Remove from 
range, and beat until of right consistency to spread. Flavor 
with one-fourth teaspoonful of water and vanilla. This is a 
most delicious frosting for chocolate cake, but will never 
spread perfectly smooth. 

Ornamental Frosting. 
Four cups of sugar, two cups of water, whites of six eggs, 
half teaspoonful of tartaric acid, 



368 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Boil sugar and water until syrup when dropped from tip 
of spoon forms a long thread. Pour syrup gradually on beaten 
whites of egg, beating constantly; then add acid and continue 
beating. When stiff enough to spread, put a thin coating over 
cake. Beat remaining frosting until cold and stiff enough to 
keep in shape after being forced through a pastry tube. After 
first coating on cake has hardened, cover with a thicker layer, 
and crease for cutting. If frosting is too stiff to spread 
smoothly, thin with a few drops of water. With a pastry bag 
and variety of tubes, cake may be ornamented as desired. 

Ornamental Frosting. (Another Method.) 

Whites of six eggs, two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, con- 
fectioners' sugar, sifted. 

Put eggs in a large bowl, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
and beat three minutes, using a perforated wooden spoon. Re- 
peat until one and one-half cups of sugar are used. Add 
lemon juice gradually, as mixture thickens. Continue adding 
sugar by spoonfuls, and beating until frosting is stiff enough 
to spread. This may be determined by taking up some of 
mixture on back of spoon, and with a case knife making a 
cut through mixture; if knife makes a clean cut and frosting 
remains parted, it is of right consistency. Spread cake thinly 
with frosting; when this has hardened, put on a thicker layer, 
having mixture somewhat stiffer than first coating, and then 
crease for cutting. To remaining frosting add enough more 
sugar, that frosting may keep in shape after being forced 
through a pastry bag and tube. 

With a pastry bag and variety of tubes, cake may be orna- 
mented as desired. 

Almond Paste. 

Ingredients. — Eight ounces of ground almonds, twelve 
ounces of loaf sugar, two whites of eggs, lemon juice. 

Method. — Put the sugar, with two tablespoonfuls of water 
and two teaspoonfuls of lemon juice into a stewpan, bring to 
the boil, skim well, and boil to the "ball degree" (237° Fahr.). 
Pour the syrup on to the ground almonds, add about one white 
of egg, mix well together, and use as required. 

Chocolate Icing. 

Ingredients. — Six ounces of chocolate, one pound of icing 
sugar, one gill of water. 

Method. — Break the chocolate into small pieces,, put them 
into a small stewpan with the water, and stir by the side of 



STANDARD COOKERY. 369 

the fire until dissolved. Add the icing sugar, stir until well 
mixed and smooth, then use as required. 

Coffee Butter. 

Ingredients. — One-half pound of fresh butter, one-half 
pound of castor sugar, two yolks of eggs, coffee essence. 

Method. — Cream the sugar and yolks of eggs for about ten 
minutes, add coffee essence to taste, and the softened butter 
gradually. Work until thoroughly mixed and smooth, let it 
remain on ice until firm, stir again, then use for decorating, 
by means of a paper cornet, or bag and forcer. 

Coffee Icing, 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of icing sugar or fine castor 
sugar, two gills of cold water, two dessertspoonfuls of coffee 
essence. 

Method. — Put the sugar and water into a stewpan, stir by 
the side of the fire vmtil it reaches boiling-point, and simmer 
for four or five minutes. Pour the syrup into a bowl, add the 
coffee essence, and stir until the icing becomes less transparent 
as it cools. If used before it reaches this point it will have a 
dull appearance. 

Transparent Icing. 

Ingredients. — Two pounds of loaf sugar, one gill of warm 
water. 

Method. — Put the sugar and water into a sugar boiler or 
stewpan, let it dissolve, then bring to the boil and simmer for 
about five minutes, or until a thick syrup is formed (230° 
Fahr. on a saccharometer). Pour into a bowl, stir until al- 
most cold and setting, then use as required. 

Confectioners' Custard. 

Ingredients. — Eight yolks of eggs, three pints of milk, 
eight ounces of castor sugar, one ounce of cornstarch, six sheets 
of French gelatine, flavoring essence. 

Method. — Mix the cornstarch smoothly with a little milk, 
boil the remainder, add the sugar and blended cornstarch, boil 
for two minutes, then pour over the beaten yolks of eggs, stir- 
ring meanwhile. Return to the stewpan, and stir by the side 
of the fire until the mixture thickens, then add the gelatine, 
previously dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of water, and the 
flavoring essence, and use as required. 

Frangipan Cream. 
Ingredients. — One pound of fine sifted flour, half a pound 



370 STANDARD COOKERY. 

of castor sugar, four ounces of butter, eight eggs, two pints 
of milk, flavoring essence. 

Method. — Put eight yolks and four whites of eggs, the 
flour, sugar and two little pinches of salt into a small stewpan, 
stir and cook by the side of the fire until well mixed, then add 
the milk gradually. When perfectly smooth, stir in the butter, 
cook gently for about ten minutes, then turn into a bowl, flavor 
to taste, and when cool use as required for filling tartlets, etc. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 



371 



DISHES MADE WITH CEREALS. 

TABLE FOR COOKING CEREALS. 



Kind. 


Quantity. 


Water. 


Time. 


Steam-cooked and 








rolled oats . . 








Rolled Avena . 








Quaker rolled Oats, 


I cup 


if cups 


30 minutes 


H-O, Old Grist 








Mill . . . . , 








Rolled oats . 








Steam-cooked and 








rolled wheats . I 


I cup 


i| cups 


20 minutes 


Old Grist Mill . 








Rye flakes . . . 








Pettijohn's, etc. . 


I cup 


2I-3J cups 


45-60 minutes 


Rice (steamed) . 




(according to 
age of rice) 




Indian meal 


r cup 


3i cups 


3 hours 


Vitos 


I cup 


4i cups 


30 minutes 


Wheatlet .... 








Wheatena .... 
Wheat germ . . 


I cup 


3I cups 


30 minutes 


Toasted wheat . . 








Oatmeal (coarse) . 


I cup 


4 cups 


3 hours 


Hominy (fine) 


I cup 


4 cups 


I hour 



Oatmeal Mush with Apples. 

Core apples, leaving large cavities; pare, and cook until 
soft in syrup made by boiling sugar and water together, al- 
lowing one cup of sugar to one and one-half cups water. Fill 
cavities with oatmeal mush ; serve with sugar and cream. The 
syrup should be saved and re-used. Berries, sliced bananas, 
or sliced peaches, are acceptably served with any breakfast 
cereal. 

Cereal with Fruit. 
Three-quarters cup of wheat, germ, three-quarters cup cold 



372 STANDARD COOKERY. 

water, two cups of boiling water, one teaspoonful of salt, half 
a pound of dates, stoned and cut in pieces. 

Mix cereal, salt and cold water; add to boiling water placed 
in front of range. Boil five minutes, steam in double boiler 
thirty minutes, stir in dates, and serve with cream. Serve for 
breakfast, or as a simple dessert. 

Fried Cornmeal Mush, or Fried Hominy. 
Pack cornmeal or hominy mush in greased, one pound bak- 
ing-powder boxes, or small bread-pan, cool, and cover. Cut in 
thin sHces, and saute; cook slowly, if preferred crisp and dry. 
Where mushes are cooked to fry, use less water in steaming. 

Macaroni Pie (Hot). 
Have ready some cooked macaroni, and place a layer of it 
in a greased pie-dish. Then add a layer of cooked tomato 
puree, and then one of savory rice, adding pepper and salt, and 
moistening well with milk or stock, and one ounce of oiled 
butter. Cover with pastry or with mashed potato, and bake 
until the pastry is cooked or the potato browned. Grated 
cheese may be added, or slices of hard-boiled eggs. 

Baked Tomatoes and Macaroni. 

Cut four or five tomatoes of equal size into halves, and place 
them in a baking tin with a small piece of butter on each, and 
dust them with black pepper and nutmeg. Bake from fifteen 
to twenty minutes. Have ready six ounces of macaroni, boiled 
and hot, place this in a circle on a hot dish, arrange the toma- 
toes inside this, and pour over the macaroni a rich cheese 
sauce. Serve very hot. 

Macaroni with Tomatoes. 
Remove the stalks of the tomatoes, cut each one into four 
pieces, then put them into a stewpan with a little water, a 
bay-leaf, and a sprig of basil, and season with pepper and salt 
to taste; now boil till thoroughly done, and turn out on to 
a hair sieve, allowing them to stand for a minute or so in order 
that all the water may drain off, which throw away; then pass 
the tomatoes through a sieve with a wooden spoon, beat up 
the pulp well with a good lump of butter, then dress previously 
boiled macaroni with this and plenty of grated Parmesan or 
any good strongly-flavored cheese which will grate well. 

Macaroni Cutlets. 
Four ounces of macaroni, four ounces of grated cheese, one 
ounce of butter, half ounce of flour, half a pint of milk, one 



STANDARD COOKERY. 373 

teaspoonful of French mustard, breadcrumbs, one egg, cayenne 
and salt. Boil the macaroni, and cut it into pieces of half an 
inch in length. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour 
gradually, stirring until there are no lumps, add the milk, and 
stir over the fire until the sauce thickens. Mix the macaroni, 
cheese, mustard, pinch of cayenne, and salt to taste, with the 
sauce, then turn out on to a plate, and leave until cold. Now 
shape into cutlets or small rolls, roll in breadcrumbs, then dip 
in beaten egg, and again into the crumbs. Fry the cutlets in 
boiling fat until they are a golden brown color, and serve with 
a garnish of fried parsley. If the mixture is formed into 
cutlet shape, place a small piece of raw macaroni at the thin 
end to represent bone. 

Buttered Macaroni. 
Boil two ounces of macaroni and drain it well. Put two 
ounces of butter into a thoroughly warmed pie-dish; put the 
macaroni on top of this, and mix it all together, at the same 
time add freshly-grated cheese and a few dried breadcrumbs. 
Place in the oven and cook until a golden brown, and serve in 
the dish in which it is cooked. 

Macaroni a la Napolitaine. 
Boil three ounces of macaroni in the manner previously 
described, and after it has been returned to the dry pan, stir 
into it two ounces of Parmesan cheese, finely grated, and one 
ounce of butter. The cheese should be stirred in half at a 
time, and well shaken amongst the macaroni. Season with 
black pepper and salt, and serve at once very hot. 

Macaroni and Spaghetti (to Boil). 

Macaroni or spaghetti should be boiled in the same way as 
rice, namely thrown into boiling salted water, and should never, 
under any circumstances, be soaked or placed in cold water 
previously. They should be tested occasionally with a fork, 
and when tender, a teacupful of cold water should be thrown 
into the pan to stop the boiling; the pan should then be lifted 
from the fire, the macaroni or spaghetti drained of all liquid, 
and returned to the hot dry pan, and kept hot until wanted. 
Boiling takes from twenty to thirty minutes. The following 
dishes can be made of either preparation: 
Boiled MacaronL 

Three-quarters cup of macaroni broken in inch pieces, half 
cup of cream, two quarts of boiling water, one tablespoonful 
of salt. 



374 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water twenty minutes or 
until soft, drain in strainer, pour over it cold water to prevent 
pieces from adhering; add cream, re-heat, and season with 
salt. 

Macaroni with White Sauce. 

Three-quarters cup of macaroni broken in inch pieces, two 
quarts of boiling water, one tablespoonful of salt, one and a 
half cups of white sauce. 

Cook as for boiled macaroni and re-heat in white sauce. 

To Make White Sauce. — Melt two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, add two tablespoonfuls flour with one-half teaspoonful of 
salt, and pour on slowly one and one-half cups of scalded 
milk. 

Baked Macaroni. 

Put macaroni with white sauce in buttered baking-dish, 
cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. 

Baked Macaroni with Cheese. 

Put a layer of boiled macaroni in buttered baking-dish, 
sprinkle with grated cheese ; repeat until dish is nearly full ; 
pour over white sauce, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake 
until crumbs are brown. 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce. 

Re-heat boiled macaroni in one and one-half cups of tomato 
sauce, sprinkle with grated cheese, and serve ; or prepare as 
baked macaroni, using tomato in place of white sauce. 

Macaroni a I'ltalienne. 

Three-quarters cup of macaroni, two quarts of boiling salted 
water, one-half onion, two cloves, one and a half cups tomato 
sauce, one-half cup grated cheese, two tablespoonfuls of wine, 
one-half tablespoonful of butter. 

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water, with butter, and 
onion stuck with cloves; drain, remove, re-heat in tomato 
sauce, add cheese and wine. 

Macaroni Italian Style. (Another Method.) 

One cup of macaroni, two tablespoonfuls of butter, two 
tablespoonfuls of flour, one and a half cups of scalded milk, 
two-thirds cup of grated cheese, salt and paprika, one-quarter 
cup of finely-chopped cold boiled ham. 

Break macaroni in one-inch pieces and cook in boiling salted 
water, drain, and re-heat in sauce made of butter, flour and 
milk, to which is added cheese. As soon as cheese is melted. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 375 

season with salt and paprika, and turn on to a serving dish. 
Sprinkle with ham and garnish with parsley. 
Pontifical Macaroni. 

Take half a pound of any kind of macaroni or spaghetti and 
boil for fifteen minutes. After draining, line a well-buttered 
mold with macaroni and fill in the center with a mixture of 
sliced chicken and ham, chopped liver, small button mushrooms, 
hard-boiled eggs sliced, breadcrumbs previously moistened with 
a little milk, herbs and seasoning to taste. Pour over the 
whole a cupful of good chicken broth, and bake for three- 
quarters of an hour. Turn out on a dish and serve with any 
sauce that is liked. 

To Boil Rice. 

Wash the rice in several waters, rubbing it well between 
the hands to remove all dirt. Place the rice in a pan of fast- 
boiling water, and be careful to choose one large enough for 
it, remembering that rice swells considerably in the cooking 
process. One to one and a half ounces of rice should be cooked 
in a quart pan, which should be three parts full of water, and 
have half a teaspoonful of salt and a few drops of lemon juice 
in it, the latter to preserve the whiteness of the rice. Stir 
occasionally. Boil the rice from ten to fifteen minutes, testing 
it by pressing it between the finger and thumb. When the 
grains feel soft, remove the saucepan from the fire at once 
and drain off the water; return the rice to the pan and set it 
on the corner of the stove to dry, shaking it occasionally. 
Some grains of rice will always stick to the pan, and to re- 
move these put a small pat of butter in the pan, and as this 
melts the grains will fall away. The rice will take about ten 
minutes to dry, and should never be served until the moisture 
has been got rid of and the grains separated. Carolina rice 
swells more than Patna, and so requires rather more water 
than the latter. If the rice is boiled too slowly, or for too 
long a time, the result will be a sticky mass. A good plan is 
to pour in a pint of cold water when the rice is sufficiently 
cooked. This stops the boiling at once, and helps to separate 
the grains; if put close to the stove when the rice is first 
put into the pan, the cook will be able to throw it into the pan 
the moment the rice is tender. If the rice is to be served in 
place of a vegetable, it should only be partly cooked, and water 
all drained off, and then half a pint to one pint of stock put 
into the pan. This should be simmered until quite cooked, and 
then be drained and served. 



376 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Plain Rice Pudding. 

No eggs or milk required. Put on the fire twelve pints of 
water in a saucepan, add to it, when boiling, one pound of 
rice (previously washed), or sixteen tablespoonfuls (one table- 
spoonful equal to an ounce), four ounces of brown sugar 
(or foujr tablespoonfuls), one large teaspoonful of salt, the 
rind of a lemon thinly peeled; boil gently for half an hour, 
strain the water from the rice, keeping the rice rather dry. 
The rice water is then ready for drinking either warm or cold; 
the juice of a lemon is then introduced to make it more palata- 
ble and refreshing. Add to the rice three ounces of sugar, 
four tablespoonfuls of flour, and half a teaspoonful of pow- 
dered cinnamon; stir on the fire carefully for five or six min- 
utes, put it in a tin or pie-dish and bake. By boiling for a 
quarter of an hour longer the rice will be very good without 
baking. This will produce five pounds of pudding, and six 
pints of most wholesome beverage. The lemon and cinnamon 
may be omitted if not liked. 

Savory Rice Pudding. (Hot.) 

Boil three ounces of rice in half a pint of milk, season with 
pepper and salt; butter a pie-dish, lay in a layer of rice, 
sprinkle this with one ounce of grated cheese, add the rest of 
the rice, sprinkle with another ounce of cheese, dot some small 
pieces of butter all over the top; bake in a quick oven till 
nicely browned on the top. 

Rice and Chicken Andalusien. 

Mix together one and a half pounds of cooked chicken 
cut into dice, half a pound of boiled rice, onion, parsley, and 
seasoning to taste. A clove of garlic may be added or omitted 
according to taste. Mix it with half a pint of warm olive oil 
or melted butter, and cook in a covered earthenware pot in 
the oven, or in an enameled saucepan, for three-quarters of an 
hour. Stir thoroughly and turn out on a dish. The surface 
may be browned with a salamander or in a quick oven. 
Squeeze the juice of a lemon over the dish before serving. 

Carmelite Rice. 
Cook half a pound of rice in salted water until quite tender. 
Let it drain and dry. Now add the flaked meat of a cured 
haddock (which has previously been well soaked), half an 
ounce of butter, and herbs, pepper and salt to taste. Mix 
thoroughly with the rice and place in a baking-dish covered 
with three hard-boiled eggs finely chopped. Pour over this 



STANDARD COOKERY. 377 

half a cupful of fish stock — which can be made from the bones 
and refuse part of any kind of fish — and grate breadcrumbs 
freely over the whole. Bake for half an hour, and garnish 
with parsley before serving. 

Boiled Rice. 

One cup of rice, two quarts of boiling water, and one table- 
spoonful of salt. 

Pick over rice ; add slowly to boiling, salted water, so as 
not to check boiling of water. Boil thirty minutes, or until 
soft, which may be determined by testing kernels. Old rice 
absorbs much more water than new rice, and takes longer for 
cooking. Drain in coarse strainer, and pour over one quart 
hot water ; return to kettle in which it was cooked ; cover, place 
on back of range, and let stand to dry off, when kernels are 
distinct. When stirring rice, always use a fork to avoid 
breaking kernels. 

Steamed Rice. 

One cup of rice, one teaspoonful of salt, two and three- 
quarters to three and a quarter cups of boiling water (ac- 
cording to age of rice). 

Put salt and water in top of double boiler, place on range, 
and add gradually well-washed rice, stirring with a fork to 
prevent adhering to boiler. Boil five minutes, cover, place 
over under-part of double boiler, and steam forty-five minutes, 
or until kernels are soft; uncover, that steam may escape. 
When rice is steamed for a simple dessert, use one-half quan- 
tity of water given in recipe, and steam until rice has absorbed 
water; then add scalded milk for remaining liquid. 

Rice With Cheese. 
Steam one cup of rice, allowing one tablespoonful of salt ; 
cover bottom of buttered pudding-dish wath rice, dot over with 
three-fourths tablespoonful of butter, sprinkle with thin shav- 
ings of mild cheese and a few grains of cayenne; repeat until 
rice and one-fourth pound of cheese are used. Add milk to 
half the depth of contents of dish, cover with buttered cracker 
crumbs, and bake until cheese melts. 

Rissoto Creole. 

Three tablespoonfuls of butter, one cup of rice, two and 
three-quarter cups of highly-seasoned brown stock, canned pi- 
mentoes. 

Melt butter in hot fryingpan, add rice, and stir constantly 



378 STANDARD COOKERY. 

until rice is well browned. Add stock heated to boiling-point, 
and cook in double boiler until soft. Turn on a serving dish, 
garnish with pimentoes cut in fancy shapes, and cover with 
Creole Sauce. Cook two tab'lespoonfuls chopped onion, two 
tablespoonfuls of chopped green pepper, one tablespoonful of 
chopped red pepper, or canned pimentoes, and four tablespoon- 
fuls of chopped fresh mushrooms, with three tablespoonfuls 
of butter, five minutes. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour, one 
cup tomatoes, one truffle thinly sliced, one-fourth cup sherry 
wine, and salt to taste. 

Fried Rice. 

Boil half a pound of rice as directed, and when it is thor- 
oughly dried, fry it in one ounce of butter until slightly 
browned. Dust with pepper and salt, and serve piled in a dish. 

Deviled Rice. 
Proceed as for fried rice, but mix in a pinch of curry pow- 
der, which has been baked for ten minutes, with the hot liquid 
butter. 

Rice a I'ltalienne. 
Boil the rice as usual, and to four ounces, when cooked and 
drained, stir one ounce of butter, dust with salt and pepper, 
and stir well, mixing thoroughly; add sufficient tomato sauce 
to moisten the whole, and add two ounces of finely-grated 
cheese. Mix well, and serve very hot. 

Rice Fritters. 

Take some rice a I'ltalienne when cold. Form into balls, 
dip into batter, and fry. 

Risotto a la Milanaise. 

Fry three ounces of chopped onion in two ounces of butter 
or clarified dripping, until of a golden brown color, then add 
six ounces of rice, stir without stopping for two or three min- 
utes, add by degrees one pint of stock, stir occasionally, and 
simmer gently until the rice is just soft, add a very small 
amount of grated nutmeg and one and a half ounces of grated 
cheese before the rice is cooked ; after this, stir and cook for 
three or four minutes until the rice is quite soft. Take ofif 
the pan, add a small pat of butter, stir well, and serve very 
hot. 

Another Risotto. 
Place in a saucepan half a pint of milk, a small teacupful 



STANDARD COOKERY. 379 

of raw rice, four small Portugal onions, six good-sized to- 
matoes, both finely chopped, pepper and salt to taste. Boil all 
together until soft, stirring occasionally, adding more milk if 
necessary, and just before serving stir in one ounce of finely- 
grated cheese. 

Risotto made with Stock. 
Chop half an onion very finely, and fry it in half an ounce 
of butter. Place four ounces of rice in a saucepan with half 
a pint of stock, add the onion, and cook until the stock is ab- 
sorbed. Stir in one ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, pepper 
and salt to taste. Make very hot and serve. 

Stewed Rice and Cabbage made with Stock. 
Boil in the ordinary way, separately, equal quantities of rice 
and cabbage. The latter cut into small pieces before they are 
quite cooked, remove them from their respective pans, and 
place them together in a stewpan with just as much stock as 
will cover them; simmer until quite cooked (for about five min- 
utes), and serve with a covering of grated cheese. 

Rice Cakes. 
Boil four ounces of rice in stock, taking care to let it ab- 
sorb as much liquid as possible; to this add one tablespoonful 
of finely-grated cheese, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 
one ounce of finely-grated brown breadcrumbs. One table- 
spoonful of tomato sauce, pepper and salt to taste; bind all the 
ingredients with the yolks of two eggs, mixing thoroughly, form 
into cakes, brush over with the white of an egg, roll in bread- 
crumbs, and fry a golden brown. Omit the cheese when va- 
iety is required. 

Rice and Cheese Croquettes. (Eustace Miles Recipe.) 

Mix four ounces of cooked rice, about three ounces of bread- 
crumbs, four ounces of grated cheese, one egg, one ounce of 
proteid food, a little celery salt, one tablespoonful of nutril, 
one dessertspoonful of tomato sauce. Mix all the ingredients 
together, form into croquettes, egg and crumb, and fry. The 
rice must be thoroughly drained, and the exact quantity of 
breadcrumbs depends upon the dryness of the rice. 

Rice and Tomato Kedgeree. 
To four ounces of boiled rice take one gill of tomato sauce 
and stir over the fire until hot and sufficiently dry. Serve in 
a hot fireproof dish, with grated yolk of a hard-boiled egg 
scattered over. 



38o STANDARD COOKERY. 

Kedgeree Custard. 
Well mix one gill of cream with a fresh egg, add pepper and 
salt, and mix in four ounces of boiled rice, and stir over the 
fire until the rice absorbs the mixture. 

Pilaff of Rice. 

Wash, boil for five minutes, and drain four ounces of rice. 
Place it in a stewpan with one ounce of butter, salt and pep- 
per, stir well and add little by little one-third of a pint of veg- 
etable stock. Cook for about fifteen minutes. The rice should 
absorb the stock, and though soft, the grains should be separ- 
ate. More stock should be added if necessary. Serve very 
hot. 

This dish is delicious if served with a center of stewed mush- 
rooms or quartered hard-boiled eggs in a delicate onion sauce. 

Timbal of Rice with Buttered Eggs. 

Wash well four ounces of rice, and cook it in as much 
vegetable stock as it will absorb, with two ounces of butter. 
Add more stock if necessary. Keep the pan covered, and cook 
gently. When done, the rice must be soft, but the grains sep- 
arate. Then pound it to a paste and mix in the yolk of one 
or two eggs, according to the richness required. When cool, 
press the rice into a border mold which has been thoroughly 
well-buttered, and bake in a moderate oven until golden brown 
and sufficiently firm to turn out. 

Serve with a center of buttered egg, and stewed tomatoes 
or mushrooms, curried vegetable, or onion puree. 

Cassolettes of Rice. 
Proceed as before, but press the rice into small molds, and 
when done hollow out and fill with some of the rice mixed with 
a thick curry gravy or tomato puree or cheese sauce. Put 
back the piece of browned rice at the bottom, replace in the 
oven for a minute or two; turn out, serve very hot. 

Semolina Cakes. 
Boil one pint of milk with one tablespoonful of butter and 
a little salt. When boiling, drop into it by degrees four ounces 
of semolina, and stir it until it thickens like custard, which 
takes about fifteen minutes. Add one ounce of grated cheese 
and a little white pepper. Spread the mixture out on a floured 
board, when cold it will be solid enough to form into cakes. 
Egg and crumb the cakes and fry a golden brown, or dip in 
batter and fry. 




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STANDARD COOKERY. 381 

Gnocci. 

Bring one pint of water to the boil with one tablespoonful 
of butter and some salt; drop four ounces of semolina by de- 
grees, and stir until the mixture thickens. This will take 
about one-quarter of an hour. Add one ounce of grated 
cheese, and leave it until it becomes cold; butter a fireproof 
dish and sprinkle it with cheese and put a tablespoonful of the 
semolina mixture all over it. They should stand up roughly 
like rock cakes; add a few little bits of butter, and bake to a 
golden brown in a fairly hot oven, which will take about twenty 
minutes. 

Savory Semolina Pudding. 

Proceed as for semolina cakes, but place in a greased pie 
dish, sprinkled with butter and grated cheese and bake until 
the top is a golden brown. 

For a variety add a little tomato sauce to the mixture. 

Spaghetti a I'lndienne. 

Make a curry sauce by slicing two small onions and frying 
them in butter until a light brown, add to them two teaspoon- 
fuls of curry powder and a tablespoonful of lemon juice, or 
rather less of vinegar, a tablespoonful of sugar, a pinch of 
salt, and two raw apples, chopped very finely; stir in one and 
a half pints of water, and simmer until the ingredients have 
become a pulp. Place half a pound of spaghetti in boiling 
water, and when partly cooked remove it; drain, and finish 
cooking it in the sauce. Serve very hot. 

Spaghetti Pudding. 
Cook four ounces of spaghetti as previously directed, drain 
it, and place half of it in a pie-dish, grate two ounces of Par- 
mesan cheese and sprinkle some of it over the spaghetti ; slice 
four or five small tomatoes and place them on the bed of 
spaghetti, sprinkling them with cheese, pepper and salt, and 
finish with the remainder of the spaghetti, with the rest of the 
cheese on the top. Pour carefully over this half a pint of milk, 
and cover the dish with a plate or small dish ; cook in a mod- 
erate oven. A fireproof dish with a well-fitting cover would be 
useful for this dish, but if not procurable, a pie-dish can quite 
well be used. 

VermicellL 
Boil one quart of milk, add to it five ounces of sugar. 
When this boils, add six ounces of vermicelli mashed up. 



382 STANDx\RD COOKERY. 

When that has cooked for fifteen minutes, add one ounce of 
butter, little flavoring of lemon, and two eggs, yolks and whites, 
and not let it boil any longer. Then butter a mold well, and 
put it in and bake it in the oven slowly and serve this with 
cream sauce vanilla, which is composed of half a pint of milk, 
three yolks of eggs, one ounce of sugar. Boil and pass 
through strainer and serve with a little on the top and some 
in a sauce-boat. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 383 



SPECIAL TASTY DISHES FOR BREAK- 
FAST, SUPPER OR HIGH TEA. 

SANDWICHES. 

In making a large quantity, a stale quartern loaf should be 
taken and trimmed free from all crust, and cut into slices 
the eighth of an inch in thickness, slightly buttered, and then 
thin slices of meat, nicely trimmed, may be laid on and covered 
with another slice of bread, and then cut into eight parts ; should 
they be cut some time before they are wanted, they ought to 
be put one over the other, as they thus keep moist; a little 
mustard and salt may be added to the meat, if preferred. 
Some thin slices of gherkin may be added to the meat, and the 
same plan can be adopted with pickled fish, brawn or sausages. 
The following varies the common mode of making sandwiches: 

Cheese Sandwiches. 

Take a small quantity of very fresh cream cheese, put it 
into a bowl or a marble mortar, add some salt, pepper, and a 
little mustard, beat it well up until it is of the same con- 
sistency as butter; if too hard, add a little of the latter, and 
use it as butter on the bread, with slices of meat between. 

Salad Sandwiches. 
Cover the bread as before, and have ready some mustard 
and cress and water-cresses, well washed and dried; put into 
a bowl with mayonnaise sauce, and when ready to serve place 
it neatly between the bread. 

Spiced Gammon of Bacon. 

Get about four pounds of gammon of bacon (it is not nec- 
essary that the bacon should be gammon, provided it is lean), 
and boil it with two onions stuck with three cloves each, one 
carrot, one turnip, a blade of mace, eighteen peppers, and a 
teaspoonful of mixed herbs, tied in muslin. When the bacon 
is cold, cover the top with raspings, and serve it with a salad 
composed of tomatoes and celery. 

The vegetable should be blanched for a few minutes previous 
to being placed in the pot with the bacon. 



384 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Bacon Fritters, 
Cut some thin slices of bacon and roll them neatly, secure 
the roll with thread and parboil them, and allow to cool. Make 
a batter as follows: — To a quarter of a pint of tepid water 
add a dessertspoonful of oil, then gradually stir in four ounces 
of flour and a little salt, and set aside for at least an hour 
before using; just before the batter is required add a pinch of 
baking-powder and the white of an egg, whisked to a very stiff 
froth. Dip the rolls of bacon (having removed the thread) 
into the batter and fry in boiling fat. Serve on a very hot 
dish. 

Corned Beef Salad. 
Shred finely two lettuces into a bowl and incorporate a 
dressing made by mixing two tablespoonfuls of salad oil and 
one of vinegar, a dessertspoonful of tarragon vinegar, and a 
little pepper and salt and a saltspoonful of dissolved mustard. 
Take a salad bowl, arrange a layer of sliced cooked potatoes 
at the bottom, followed by a layer of thinly-sliced corned beef; 
cover the meat with dressed lettuce, and scatter some coarsely- 
chopped beetroot over the top ; then put a second layer of po- 
tatoes, beef and lettuce, and garnish with beetroot and hard- 
boiled eggs cut into slices. 

Beef and Ham Pastie. 

Cut some lean steak into small pieces (about an inch square) 
and fry, together with a minced onion and some chopped pars- 
ley for a quarter of an hour in a little dripping; turn the meat 
constantly so that it may not burn. Then pour in a small 
quantity of stock, cover the pan and let the meat simmer very 
gently for an hour, after which put it aside to get cold. Make 
a short paste and roll it out to a medium thickness, and cut 
it into a round the size of a meat plate ; put the cooked beef on 
one-half of the paste, and fill in the spaces between the meat 
with coarsely-chopped ham (or lean bacon), season with salt, 
pepper and a little grated nutmeg, then fold over the paste, 
moisten the edges and press them together. Bake in a quick 
oven, and when nearly done brush it over with some white of 
egg. May be served hot or cold. 

Haricot Bean Salad. 
Boil some white haricot beans, which have been previously 
soaked until they are tender; allow to cool, remove the skins, 
and dress with a sauce made as directed below. Hard boil 
as many eggs as are required, cut them in half and carefully 



STANDARD COOKERY. 385 

remove the yolks, which pound with a little butter; add a small 
quantity of anchovy sauce, a few drops of tarragon vinegar, 
and salt, and cayenne, then fill the whites of the eggs Vv-ith the 
mixture. Place the dressed beans in the middle of the dish, 
heaping them up into a neat mold, arrange the eggs round the 
base, and beyond the eggs make a border with some shredded 
lettuce. For the sauce, put the yolk of one raw egg into a bowl 
with a pinch of salt and pepper, and a very little dissolved mus- 
tard; stir well with a wooden spoon, adding salad oil, drop by 
drop; when incorporated, whisk briskly until the mixture is as 
thick as double cream, then gradually stir in a dessertspoonful 
of tarragon vinegar and a few drops of white vinegar. Add a 
few chopped capers to the sauce and it will be ready for use. 

Molded Haricot Beans. 
Take half a pound of well-cooked white haricot beans, which 
have been boiled with a small onion, a turnip, and a carrot 
previously blanched ; drain them, and pass them, together with 
the vegetables, through a sieve. Stir into this mixture two 
ounces of melted beef dripping (or butter), season with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg, and press into a buttered mold ; cover the 
top with greased paper, and steam for three-quarters of an 
hour. Let the mold stand for a few moments on being taken 
from the steamer, then turn out on to a hot dish and surround 
with small portions of cooked bacon. 

Beef Sandwiches in Jelly 

Cut some thin slices of cold salt beef, and with cutter-shapes 
stamp them into circles; make a paste by pounding the hard- 
boiled yolks of one or two eggs with a small quantity of to- 
mato catsup. Spread a layer of the paste in the center of the 
rounds of meat, and place other pieces on the top, pressing 
them down well. Put the meat into a deep dish and cover 
with savory jelly which is cool but not set. When the jelly 
is quite firm, cut out the rounds of beef and serve them with 
finely-shred dressed lettuce in the middle of the dish, and 
garnish with the white of the eggs cut into small pieces. The 
trimmings from the beef can be finely minced and seasoned, 
and when heated with a little butter and served on hot buttered 
toast, make an excellent breakfast dish. 

Curry Scallops. 

Fry half a sliced onion in an ounce of clarified dripping until 
it is lightly browned, then add a large teaspoonful of curry 
powder and cook for five minutes longer. Have ready three- 



386 STANDARD COOKERY. 

quarters of a pint of thick melted butter sauce; stir this into 
the pan containing the onion and curry powder, and let simmer 
for fifteen minutes; then strain it and add two whiting which 
have been baked for ten minutes between buttered plates and 
then divided into flakes. Butter some china scallop shells, fill 
them with breadcrumbs; pour a little warm butter over them 
and put the scallops into a quick oven for ten minutes. 

Fish in Bread Cases. 

Stamp out some rounds with a cutter from some slices of 
bread, and with a small cutter make a little hollow in the mid- 
dle of each. Dip the rounds of bread quickly into milk, then 
dust them lightly with flour, brush them over with beaten egg, 
and cover quickly with fine dry breadcrumbs. Have ready a 
bath of boiling fat, fry the cases in it until they are a golden 
brown, and let them drain on a paper in front of the fire. 
When all are ready fill the centers with a fricassee of fish 
made as under, and serve at once. Make half a pint of creamy 
melted butter, add a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a tablespoon- 
ful of finely-chopped parsley, and a dust of curry powder (or 
cayenne). Divide a medium-sized cooked whiting into flakes, 
carefully removing the skin and bones; make hot in the sauce, 
but take care that the latter does not boil after the lemon juice 
has been added, otherwise it will curdle. 

Fish with Macaroni and Tomatoes. 

Take a cooked whiting and divide into flakes, heat in a 
saucepan with melted butter sauce. Put a large tablespoonful 
of finely-minced onion into a frying-pan with an ounce of but- 
ter, and cook gently for eight minutes, taking care that it does 
not acquire more than a pale golden brown ; then add a few to- 
matoes which have been sliced (rather thickly), and cut into 
small pieces ; season with pepper and celery salt, and directly 
the tomatoes begin to get tender, stir in a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley and remove from the stove. Add the mixture 
to the hot fish, and mix altogether. Have ready some well- 
boiled macaroni, which has been cut into pieces of about an 
inch in length ; add a small piece of butter to it, and season 
with salt and pepper; put a layer of the macaroni on a hot 
dish, then cover it with a layer of the fish, and so on alternately 
until you have a good pile. Scatter browned breadcrumbs 
over the top and sides of the heap, and after placing the dish 
in a hot oven for a few minutes, serve quickly. 



STANDARD COOKERY. '387 

Fish Rissolettes. 
Remove the skin and bones from some cooked whiting and 
divide into flakes ; then mix it with some finely-mashed potato 
■ — two-thirds of fish to one of potato — and make into a 
fairly stiff paste by adding some thick white sauce, which 
should be hot, and after seasoning it with salt, curry powder, 
pepper and nutmeg, spread it out on a large plate for a short 
time. Take up a dessertspoonful at a time, and, with the 
hands well floured, form it into little balls. Have ready on the 
pastry board some rounds of nice light paste which has been 
rolled out rather thin ; envelop the fish balls in the paste and 
moisten the edges to make them adhere. Dip the rissolettes 
into beaten egg, then cover them with dry breadcrumbs, and 
fry in plenty of boiling fat. Allow to drain on paper, and 
serve garnished with fried parsley. 

Minced Galantine. 

Take about a pound and a half of salt boiled beef, from 
which fat and gristle have been removed, and pass through a 
meat chopper; then mix with it breadcrumbs, chopped pars- 
ley, lemon peel (grated), chopped onion, and a very little salt, 
some black pepper, spice, and a dust of nutmeg. Moisten the 
mince with two raw eggs, and roll it into an oblong shape on a 
floured board, and wrap it up tightly in a buttered cloth, which 
must be sewn in the middle and tied at each end. Place the 
galantine in a large stewpan and cover with boiling water; 
add a sliced onion and carrot, previously blanched, and simmer 
gently for two hours. At the end of this time remove the 
galantine, and press it between two flat dishes with a medium 
weight on top, and leave until the following day. Now take 
off the cloth, wipe the meat and cover it evenly with glaze and 
place aside until the latter is set, when it will be ready for use. 
For the glaze: soak four sheets of gelatine in a little cold water 
until softened, then put them into a saucepan, and add a tea- 
spoonful of "blackjack," and a quarter of a pint of boiling 
water; stir until the gelatine is melted, but not boiling, and use 
while warm. 

Ham and Rice Patties. 

Mix some potted ham with a small piece of butter and 
sufficient milk to make a soft paste; season with pepper and 
nutmeg, add a small quantity of boiled rice, a little chopped 
parsley and the beaten yolk of an egg. Warm some little pattie 
cases, and fill with the mixture; put them in a quick oven, and 



388 STANDARD COOKERY. 

when thoroughly hot, serve on a folded d'oyley, garnished with 
parsley. 

Scalloped Kippered Herrings. 

Divide into fillets some kippered herrings which have been 
soaked in milk, place in a hot frying-pan containing a small 
quantity of melted butter and cook until they are just tender. 
Now take out the fillets and cover them thickly with grated 
cheese, which has been mixed with dry breadcrumbs. Butter 
a small pie-dish, place the fillets therein, sprinkle with browned 
breadcrumbs, add a few pieces of butter and bake in a quick 
oven for ten minutes. 

Stuffed Lettuce. 
Wash a lettuce, trim off the outside leaves, tie with tape and 
blanch for a few minutes in boiling water, and allow to drain. 
When cool, split each with a sharp knife down one side, care- 
fully remove a small portion of the heart, and proceed to stuff 
them with a savory mince made as for rissoles, and bound with 
an egg. Then bring the severed edges of the leaves together 
so that the lettuces assume their former shape, tie them up 
again, and braise very gently with soup, vegetables and good 
stock for an hour, and serve with the stock thickened and 
poured over them. 

Macaroni Cutlets. 

Boil four ounces of macaroni until quite tender, drain well 
and allow to cool. Then cut up into small pieces and mix with 
about a quarter of a pint of stiff white sauce, which has been 
flavored with a piece of onion, a small blade of mace, and salt 
and pepper. Add a dessertspoonful of lean bacon (finely 
minced), and half a beaten egg, and spread the mixture on a 
plate. When it is cold, take up a small portion at a time and 
form it on a floured board into the shape of small cutlets. Dip 
them into beaten egg, cover with fine breadcrumbs and fry 
them until lightly browned all over. Serve very hot. 

SOYER'S PAPER-BAG COOKERY. 

BREAKFAST DISHES. 

The following breakfast dishes will form a pleasant varia- 
tion in the ordinary bill of fare for the morning meal. 

CEufs Aux Tomates. 
Butter a bag thickly. Put into it half a pint of thick tomato 



STANDARD COOKERY. 389 

catsup and a lump of butter the size of a walnut. Cook in a 
hot oven for ten minutes. Cut a square from the center of 
the bag and break in, one by one, four eggs. Cook for three 
to four minutes. Dish up. Cut away the top of the bag only 
and serve at once. (350° Fahr.). 

CEufs a la Bechamel. 
Boil four eggs hard. Throw them into cold water. Shell 
them, cut each in halves. Grease a bag thickly. Put in the 
eggs. Add a little cream, pepper, and salt to taste, and a tiny 
dust of powdered mace. Make hot gently for live minutes, and 
serve on squares of lightly buttered toast. 

Merluche Fume a la Milanaise. 
Take a pound of filleted dried haddock. Dust lightly with 
black pepper. Grease a bag. Put in the fillets of haddock. 
Pour over them the contents of half a bottle of tomato castup. 
Cook for eighteen minutes; dish upon a very hot dish, and 
serve with plenty of well buttered toast handed separately. 

Kippered Mackerel Fines Herbes. 
Place the fillets of mackerel in a deep, clean dish. Just 
cover them with boiling water. Leave for an instant. Take 
out and dry. Dust well with coarse black pepper and put on 
top of each fillet half a teaspoonful of minced chives and pars- 
ley (or finely-minced onion failing chives), and a bit of butter 
the size of a small walnut. Grease a bag, put in the fillets, and 
cook for tzventy minutes in a hot oven (350° Fahr.). Take 
out and serve with brown bread and butter. 

Marechale de Homard Aux CEufs. 
When lobsters are plentiful they are often to be had as 
cheaply as sixpence and ninepence each, so that this dish is not 
really as extravagant as it sounds. Take the white and claw 
meat of the lobster. Chop it up small and reserve it. Take 
the brown meat and rub it till quite smooth in a bowl with a 
bit of butter and a good dust of white pepper. Then add by 
degrees the contents of half a bottle of tomato catsup. Work 
the whole well together. Put into a bag four rashers of bacon. 
Cook for four minutes. Then take out the rashers and re- 
serve them on a hot dish. Put in the lobster and tomato mix- 
ture and cook for eight minutes. Now cut open the bag, put 
in the white meat, and make hot for another four or five min- 
utes. Be careful to lower the gas for this, as the white meat 
of the lobster must not get very hot. It must not actually cook, 



390 STANDARD COOKERY. 

or it will toughen and be spoilt. Empty out carefully into a 
very hot dish. Garnish with the rashers of bacon and serve 
at once. (300° Fahr.) 

Marechale of Crab 
is prepared in exactly the same way, but as crabs run larger, 
from six to seven rashers of bacon may be used instead of 
four. Fried bread should garnish both these dishes, 
Croutes Strasbourg Aux CEufs. 
Butter a bag. Cut four squares of stale bread, all of a size. 
Free them from crust. Butter them thinly and dust lightly 
with pepper. Spread a layer of foie-gras on each. Put in the 
bag and cook in the oven for five minutes. Then cut open the 
bag, and break an tgg on top of each square of bread. Dust 
the top of the tgg with pepper and a very little salt and cook 
for another four minutes. Take out, dish up on a very hot 
dish, and serve. (300° Fahr.) 

CEufs a la Tripe. 
Take half a pint of white sauce, made with an ounce of 
flour, an ounce of butter, and half a pint of milk, and flavored 
with a little mace. Add to it two large thinly-sliced onions 
cooked in a little butter in a bag, and from four to six halved 
hard-boiled eggs. Pour gently into a well-greased double bag 
and make very hot in the oven for ten minutes. Dish up on a 
hot dish and serve as quickly as possible. (350° Fahr.) 
Stuffante a la Milanaise. 
Cut a round from the top of six tomatoes, scoop out the 
seeds, dust well with pepper and salt, and put a bit of butter 
in each tomato, fill with finely-minced cold veal and bacon 
or mutton or beef and bacon. Sprinkle fried breadcrumbs on 
top, grease a bag well, put in the tomatoes and cook in a fairly 
quick oven for from ten to twelve minutes. Dish up on a 
very hot dish and serve. (350° Fahr.) 
Riz a la Strasbourg. 
Take four ounces of freshly-boiled rice, mix with it the con- 
tents of a jar of Strasbourg paste (not the fat, only the pate) 
and work up lightly but thoroughly with a fork. Butter a bag 
thickly and put in the mixture ; cook for ten minutes in a very 
hot oven, turn out on to a hot dish, garnish with a little 
grated yolk of freshly-boiled (hard) egg and serve at once, 
(350° Fahr.) 

Riz Aux Crevettes. 
Take four ounces of boiled rice. Add to it pepper and salt 



STANDARD COOKERY. 391 

to taste, a lump of butter about the size of a big Brazil nut, 
and two dessertspoonfuls of finely-grated cheese. Put this 
mixture into a well-greased bag, and make very hot for six 
minutes. Then open the bag and stir in gently two dozen 
picked shrimps. Mix in lightly with a fork. Replace the bag 
on the grid, and make hot for another three minutes. Dish up 
and serve. (350° Fahr.). 

Kippers and Bloaters Aux Fines Herbes. 

Few people know how very nice the English smoked and 
dried fish can be when cooked in a paper-bag and seasoned in 
the French fashion. Take four soft-roed bloaters, bone them, 
fill the cavities with a little (about half a teaspoonful to each 
bloater) finely-minced shallot or chives and parsley. Add a 
few fresh breadcrumbs and tiny bits of butter. If liked, a 
tiny grate of nutmeg may be added as well as a good dust of 
pepper. Put into a well-greased bag, and bake in the oven for 
ten minutes. Dish up and serve as hot as possible. Kippers 
are excellent, and are prepared in the same way, minus the 
boning process. (350° Fahr.). 

Jambon Milanaise. 

Take some six slices of either raw ham or back bacon, 
machine cut if possible, take also half a pint of cold boiled 
peas, and, if to hand, half a dozen cold boiled new potatoes. 
Put the rashers into the bag and cook them. Then take out 
and add the peas and the potatoes, the latter first thinly sliced, 
and cook in the ham fat till very hot. Empty out gently on 
to a hot dish and pour over the peas half a pint of very hot 
well-seasoned tomato pulp or tomato catsup, whichever is pre- 
ferred. The peas and potatoes should be arranged as a border 
with the rashers in the middle. When they can be had, half a 
dozen chicken livers are a great improvement to this dish. 
Filleted Soles Fines Herbes. 

Take four or six fillets of sole or lemon soles, dust lightly 
with salt and white pepper, and sprinkle also lightly with 
finely-minced parsley, chopped mushrooms, and a very little 
minced shallot. Add the tiniest possible squeeze of strained 
lemon juice. Put a bit of butter on each fillet and slip them 
gently into a well-greased bag, add quarter of a glass of sherry. 
Bake in a moderately hot oven for fifteen to eighteen minutes. 
(300° Fahr.) Cut open the bag very carefully with a pair of 
clean scissors, and slip the fish and the sauce which will have 
formed during cooking on to a very hot dish. Send to table at 
once. 



392 STANDARD COOKERY. 



VARIOUS COLORINGS ESSENCES, 
FLAVORINGS, ETC. 

Burnt Sugar, called Black Jack, Otherwise Essence Parisian. 

Take a pound of any kind of sugar, moisten with four 
tablespoonfuls of water and place in a copper sugar boiler 
made of pure copper, not tin. This vessel must not be tin, 
as the tin would run out. Let the mixture burn slowly, until 
it is perfectly black, which will be apparent by a blue smoke 
coming from it. Now quickly take your sugar boiler from the 
fire, and add one quart of water, and let the sugar stand at 
the side of the fire to boil gently until it is perfectly melted, 
then pass it through a piece of muslin, and when cold, bottle 
up. This is not much trouble, and is the only way to make 
Black-jack coloring for stew, jellies, sauces, etc. 

Green Spinach Coloring. 
Take and wash one pound of green spinach thoroughly in 
water, then squeeze it through a piece of muslin until per- 
fectly dry, then put six spoonfuls of cold water in it, and let 
it stand, then remove it to a very small bowl, and gradually 
cook six hours. Empty the water gradually, be careful not 
to disturb the bottom, and do this until you find a thick green 
spinach coloring. Put a little bit of soda as big as a large 
pin's head and dissolve well, and put this in a small bottle, 
and it will keep for a fortnight or three weeks. 

Essence of Lemon. 

Take one lemon, apply one piece of lump sugar on the rind, 
and keep on rubbing this until you get the side of the sugar 
perfectly yellow. Then take a knife and grate off the colored 
sugar on to a piece of paper. This is impregnated with the 
oil of the lemon. Then apply the sugar again until you have 
gone all round the lemon. Have ready a bottle with a large 
neck, so as to pass a knife or a teaspoon in easy access to the 
sugar. Into this bottle pour the colored sugar and cork well 
until required. 

Every time you buy a lemon do the same thing, then you 
will always have pure essence of lemon ready for your cakes. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 393 

puddings, etc., in fact for anything you want to flavor with 
essence of lemon. This is the purest essence of lemon that 
can be bought. 

Orange Essence is secured by exactly the same process as 
that for lemons. It is not necessary to buy oranges or lemons 
for the purpose, as the fruit is not spoilt and can be used for 
desert, if desired. 

Essence of Vanilla. 
Buy two pods of vanilla from your grocer or confectioner, 
roll these in a piece of paper, so as to dry perfectly, then 
take twelve pieces of lump sugar, break the two pods of 
vanilla into it, place all in a mortar, and pound well for a quar- 
ter of an hour, or until thoroughly fine; then rub this through 
a very fine sieve, and you obtain a very fine vanilla pow- 
der. To this add one pound of icing sugar, mix this all 
together well. Take an ordinary jar and at the bottom place 
two whole pods of vanilla, and pour the pounded mixture on 
top. Cork well and use when required. A jar of vanilla made 
in this way can be kept for a year. When used up, pound the 
old vanilla pods and repeat the process as above, always tak- 
ing care to put two fresh pods of vanilla at the bottom of the 
jar. Then you have a pure vanilla. The vanilla usually sold 
is not, in many cases, vanilla at all. 

To Make Spice Salt, Otherwise Sel-a-picer. 

Take two ounces of allspice, pure, mix up with one pound of 
salt, and put in a jar to keep dry. This salt is used for sea- 
soning sausages, or any kind of meat pies, liver, etc. It will 
give you a salt which you will recognize as different in color 
from what you generally buy, and you will certainly note the 
difference in flavor. 

Take a quarter of a pound of very dry fine table-salt, six 
small red chili, and rub well with your fingers until you have 
got the whole of the pepper out of them; then pass through 
a very fine sieve and bottle up. Use this instead of cayenne, 
or any other name of that kind on the market. You can make 
this for five cents, but you could not buy it for seventy-five cents. 
This is called " SOYER'S SALT," and is unapproachable 
for excellence. 

Soyer's All-Spice. 

One ounce of dried bay-leaves, half an ounce of dried thyme, 
one ounce of coriander, one ounce of cinnamon, one and a half 



394 STANDARD COOKERY. 

ounces of grated nutmeg, one ounce of cloves, one ounce of 
root ginger, three-quarters of an ounce of mace, two ounces of 
mixed pepper (half black and half white), and half a teaspoon- 
ful of cayenne pepper. Put all these into a mortar and pound 
them until able to pass through a very fine sieve. Put the pow- 
der into an airtight box or bottle and keep dry, using as re- 
quired. 

To Make Spice Salt. 

For seasoning meat, game pie, forcemeat, etc. 
Mix two ounces of the above powder with twelve ounces of 
well-dried salt. Keep airtight in a dry place. 

Aromatic Herbs for Flavoring 

consist of parsley, chervil, pimpernel, sage, basil, rosemary, 
sweet marjoram, thyme and bay. Cinnamon, ginger, juniper- 
berries, nutmegs, clove, mace and vanilla. Also Seville orange 
and lemon rind. The two last yield their flavors by grating the 
rind. (See pp. 392 and 393.) 

Saline Seasoning. 

Salt, spiced salt, saltpetre, malt vinegar, French vinegar, 
tarragon vinegar, white vinegar and lemon juice. 

Peppercorns, ground or crushed, or pepper. Mignonette, 
paprika, curry, cayenne, and compound spices. 

Pungent Flavorings. 
Onions, shallots, garlic, chives, horse-radish, all of which are 
used judiciously according to taste (a little is always better 
than a large quantity). 

Bouquets Garnee. 
Faggots — commonly called bouquets garnee — are usually 
composed of two sprigs of parsley well washed, one bay- 
leaf, and one sprig of thyme, tied tightly together in a bunch 
or bouquet. 



STANDARD COOKERY. 395 



VARIOUS FRUIT BEVERAGES. 

For Lemonade. 

Take two cups of sugar, one cup of lemon juice, one and a 
half pints of water. 

Make syrup by boiling sugar and water twelve minutes; add 
lemon juice, cool, and dilute with ice-water to suit individual 
tastes. Lemon syrup may be bottled and kept on hand to use 
as needed. 

Lemonade. (Another Method.) 
Peel six lemons free from pith, cut the peel up in small 
pieces, and put them with two cloves into a bottle, with half a 
pint of hot water, and place in a bain-marie, or stewpan, with 
boiling water, and let it stand by the side of the fire for one 
or two hours, taking care it does not boil ; remove it and let 
it remain until cold ; then take half a pint of fresh lemon 
juice, half a pint of sugar, that will make the same quantity of 
syrup — to which add a few drops of orange-flower water; 
add the infusion of the rind, stir well together and add two 
quarts of cold water. The acidity of some lemons is greater 
than others, in which case, and also if using lime juice, more 
sugar must be used. 

Cold Punch. 
Proceed as above for lemonade, but add one pint of sugar 
to half a pint of lemon juice, one pint of pale brandy, one pint 
of pale rum, one tablespoonful of arrack, and five quarts of 
cold water; let it remain some time before it is decantered. 

Port Wine Negus. 
Take one quart of new port wine, of a fruity character, one 
tablespoonful of spirit of cloves, one teacupful of sugar, one 
lemon sliced, half a nutmeg grated; pour over these two 
quarts of boiling water. 

White Wine Fillip. 
Take one bcttle of sherry or Madeira, or champagne, or any 
other good white wine, a gill of Noyeau or Maraschino, the 



396 STANDARD COOKERY. 

juice of half a lemon; add to it one quart of calves' foot jelly, 
well sweetened and boiling hot, and serve immediately. 

Marmalade Water. 
Take two tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade, place in a 
jug and pour on half a pint of boiling water. Stir well to- 
gether. Now add a further one and a half pints of boiling 
water, stir and allow to cool. When cold, strain through mus- 
lin and serve. A most refreshing drink on a hot summer's 
day. Individual taste must decide as to whether more or less 
marmalade should be mixed with the given quantity of water. 
No sugar should be added, but the juice of half a lemon, 
freshly expressed, adds a very agreeable flavor. The slightly 
bitter taste of this marmalade drink is a rare appetizer. 

Hot Orange Drink. 

Squeeze, free from pips the juice of two oranges and one 
lemon into a half-pint tumbler. Add one piece of lump sugar, 
and fill up with hot water. This is not a beverage for all oc- 
casions, but is particularly efficacious in warding off a severe 
cold. Persons feeling the premonitions of a cold should sip 
a tumblerful of this liquid, as hot as possible, upon retiring 
to bed, and, if warmly wrapped, will find in the morning that 
the cold has been averted. The stimulating and strengthening 
effect of orange juice in the case of influenza patients, has now 
been recognized for a considerable time. 

Pineapple Lemonade. 

One pint of water, one cup of sugar, one quart ice-water, 
one can of grated pineapple, juice of three lemons. 

Make syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes ; add 
pineapple and lemon juice, cool, strain, and add ice-water. 

Orangeade. 
Make syrup as for lemonade. Sweeten orange juice with 
syrup, and dilute by pouring over crushed ice. 

Mint Julep. 

One quart of water, two cups of sugar, one pint of claret 
wine, one cup of strawberry juice, one cup of orange juice, 
juice of eight lemons, one and a half cups of boiling water, 
twelve sprigs of fresh mint. 

Make syrup by boiling quart of water and sugar twenty 
minutes. Separate mint in pieces, add to the boiling water, 
cover, and let stand in warm place five minutes, strain, and 
add to syrup; add fruit juices and cool. Pour into punch-bowl. 



STANDARD COOKERY, 397 

add claret, and chill with large piece of ice; dilute with water. 
Garnish with fresh mint leaves and whole strawberries. 

Claret Punch. 

One quart of cold water, half a cup of raisins, two cups of 
sugar, two-inch piece stick cinnamon, few shavings of lemon 
rind, one and one-third cups of orange juice, one-third cup of 
lemon juice, one pint of claret wine. 

Put raisins in cold water, bring slowly to boiling-point, and 
boil twenty minutes ; strain, add sugar, cinnamon, lemon rind, 
and boil five minutes. Add fruit juice, cool, strain, pour in 
claret, and dilute with ice-water. 

Fruit Punch. 

One quart of cold water, two cups of sugar, half a cup of 
lemon juice, two cups chopped pineapple, one cup of orange 
juice. 

Boil water, sugar, and pineapple twenty minutes; add fruit 
juice, cool, strain, and dilute with ice-water. 

Fruit Punch. (Another Method.) 
One cup of water, two cups of sugar, one cup of tea infusion, 
one quart Apollinaris, two cups of strawberry syrup, juice 
of five lemons, juice of five oranges, one can grated pine- 
apple, one cup of Maraschino cherries. 

Make syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes ; add tea, 
strawberry syrup, lemon juice, orange juice, and pineapple; let 
stand thirty minutes, strain, and add icewater to make one 
and one-half gallons of liquid. Add cherries and Apollinaris. 
Serve in punch-bowl, with large piece of ice. This quantity 
will serve fifty. 

Fruit Punch. (Another Method.) 
One cup of sugar, one cup hot tea infusion, three-quar- 
ters cup of orange juice, one-third cup of lemon juice, one 
pint of ginger ale, one pint of Apollinaris, few slices of orange. 
Pour tea over sugar, and as soon as sugar is dissolved, add 
fruit juices. Strain into punch-bowl over a large piece of ice, 
and just before serving add ginger ale, Apollinaris, and slices 
of orange. 

Ginger Punch. 
One quart of cold water, one cup of sugar, half a pound of 
root ginger, half a cup of orange juice, half a cup of lemon 
juice. Chop ginger, add to water and sugar, boil fifteen min- 
utes, add fruit juice, cool, strain, and dilute with crushed ice. 



398 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Club Punch. 

One cup of water, two cups of sugar, one quart Burgundy, 
one cup of rum, one-third cup of brandy, one-third cup Bene- 
dictine, one quart Vichy, three sliced oranges, half can pine- 
apple, with syrup, juice of two lemons, one cup of tea infusion, 
ice. 

Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes. Mix 
remaining ingredients, except ice, sweeten to taste with syrup, 
and pour into punch-bowl over a large piece of ice. 

Unfermented Grape Juice. 

Ten pounds of grapes, one cup of water, three pounds of 
sugar. 

Put grapes and water in granite stewpan. Heat until stones 
and pulp separate ; then strain through jelly-bag, add sugar, 
bring to boiling-point, and bottle. This will make one gallon. 
When served, it should be diluted one-half with water. 

Claret Cup. 

One quart of claret wine, one-half cup Curacoa, one quart 
ApoUinaris, one-third cup of orange juice, two tablespoonfuls 
of brandy, sugar, mint leaves, cucumber rind, twelve straw- 
berries. 

Mix ingredients, except ApoUinaris, using enough sugar to 
sweeten to taste. Stand on ice to chill, and add chilled Apol- 
linaris just before serving. 

Sauterne Cup. 

One quart of soda water, two cups of Sauterne wine, rind of 
half orange, rind of half lemon, two tablespoonfuls of orange 
Curacoa, half a cup of sugar, mint leaves, few slices of orange, 
twelve strawberries. 

Add Curacoa to rind of fruit and sugar; cover, and let stand 
two hours. Add Sauterne, strain, and stand on ice to chill. 
Add chilled soda water, mint leaves, slices of orange, and 
strawberries. The success of cups depends upon the addi- 
tion of mineral water just before serving. 

Capillaire Water. 

Place one pound of fresh, well-cleaned maiden-hair fern 
— roots and all — in a vessel with just sufficient boiling water 
to cover it. Let it remain in a warm place for ten hours, 
after which strain and add sugar to taste, usually one pound 
to each pint. Now stir in two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower 



STANDARD COOKERY. 399 

water and let the syrup simmer for five minutes. Then strain 
and bottle for use. 

This syrup is taken with water, either by itself or with 
other syrups. 

Metheglin. 
Take eight gallons of boiling water, fifteen pounds of honey, 
a gallon of currant juice, an ounce and a half of cream of 
tartar, and stir together for half an hour. Let it ferment well, 
and then add two quarts of brandy. Strain carefully and bot- 
tle. It should be kept three months before being used. 

Nonpareil Cordial. 

Take two large pineapples, forty greengages, and twenty 
ripe pears. Peel and mince finely, being careful not to waste 
the juice. To each pound of the fruit add a pound and a half 
of sugar and three-quarters of a pint of water, and let the 
whole simmer for three-quarters of an hour, skimming from 
time to time. Strain carefully, and when quite cold add six 
quarts of gooseberry brandy. If this is not to be had, ordinary 
brandy will do. 

Bottle, cork tightly, and keep in a cool place for six weeks, 
when the cordial will be ready for use. 

Heidelberg Punch. 
Slice a large cucumber and mix with three tablespoonfuls 
of sugar and the thin rind of a lemon. Let the mixture stand 
for a couple of hours and then pour over it a pint of claret, 
a pint of Vichy or soda-water, half a tumblerful of sherry, and 
three tablespoonfuls of brandy. Mix well and let the punch 
stand on ice for an hour before use. 

Kirsch and Lemon. 

Infuse the thinly pared rind of a lemon in a small glass of 
Kirsch for an hour or two, then strain and pour it into a quart 
of red or white wine, in which three-quarters of a pound of 
sugar has been dissolved. This quantity may be varied ac- 
cording to taste. The whole should be iced before use. 

Aromatic Cup. 
Take four pints of hock or Moselle and add half a pound of 
sugar, an orange and a lemon sliced, two sprigs of woodruff, 
one of peppermint, and twenty of balm, and then add three 
leaves each of black currant, lavender, and basil, and six leaves 
each of geranium, pimpernel, yarrow, and tarragon. Let the 
whole stand for two hours, then strain, and pour into a bowl 



400 STANDARD COOKERY. 

over two dozen strawberries — or any other fruit will do — 
and set it upon the ice for an hour before use. 

If any of the herbs mentioned are not obtainable, use simply 
the woodruff and a few black currant leaves. 

Orange Bichof. 

Cut four bitter oranges into quarters, score the rind lightly 
with a knife and grill the pieces over a rather slow fire. Then 
place them in an earthenware cooking vessel with four bottles 
of strong white wine. Close the vessel tightly and let the 
whole infuse all the night in the warm ashes of the fire. Strain 
the mixture and add two pounds of sugar with a little grated 
nutmeg. 

Mead. 

Stir twenty pounds of honey and the whites of four eggs 
into twelve gallons of water. Add a spoonful each of cloves, 
mace, cinnamon, and ginger, and two sprigs of rosemary, and 
let the whole simmer for an hour. When cool place in a 
suitable vessel and add a spoonful of yeast. The process of 
fermentation should not be interfered with, but allowed to con- 
tinue until it ceases of itself. The mead must be kept in a 
cool place, and should not be bottled until six months after it 
is made. 

Bordeaux Punch. 

Take a quart of claret and place it in a saucepan with a 
quarter of a pound of sugar, a small stick of cinnamon, and 
the juice of three oranges and two lemons. Raise to boiling 
point and then pour into a bowl, adding two slices of orange 
and two of lemon, and a bunch of mint sprinkled with sifted 
sugar. 

This should be served as hot as possible. 

Rhubarb Water. 

Boil gently seven sliced stalks of green rhubarb and a quar- 
ter of a pound of chopped figs or raisins in three pints of water 
for half an hour. Then strain through muslin and add a few 
drops of orange-flower water and lemon or orange syrup to 
taste. Ice before serving. 

Koumiss. 

Fill a quart bottle three-quarters full with new milk, adding 
a tablespoonful of fresh yeast and a teaspoonful of sugar. 
Shake until the ingredients are mixed, then fill up the bottle 
with ffiilk and shake again. Cork very tightly and tie or wire 



STANDARD COOKERY. 401 

in order that the cork may not be blown out. Let the bottle 
stand upright in a cool place for three days, then turn it on its 
side until required. It must be kept in a dark cellar or other 
place where the temperature does not rise above fifty-five de- 
grees. 

Very strong bottles are necessary for this purpose — cham- 
pagne bottles for preference — and it is well to place the 
Koumiss where no great harm will be done if the bottle bursts. 
Care must be taken in decanting as the cork is expelled with 
great force; the better plan being to use a champagne tap, so 
that the liquor can be withdrawn without uncorking the bottle. 

Racahout. 

Mix thoroughly together two tablespoonfuls of ground 
rice, a tablespoonful of sifted sugar, one teaspoonful of choco- 
late powder, and half a tablespoonful of arrowroot. Take two 
dessertspoonfuls of this mixture and make into a smooth paste 
with a cup of water. Then stir it slowly into a quart of hot 
milk and boil for five minutes. 

This should be drunk as hot as possible. 



402 STANDARD COOKERY. 



COFFEE AND COCOA. 

COFFEE. 

The coffee-tree is native to Abyssinia, but is now grown in 
all tropical countries. It belongs to the genus Coffea, of which 
there are about twenty-two species. The seeds or berries of 
coffee-trees constitute the coffee of commerce. Each berry 
contains two seeds, with exception of maleberry, which is a 
single round seed. In their natural state they are almost taste- 
less; therefore color, shape, and size determine value. For- 
merly, coffee was cured by exposure to the sun; but on account 
of warm climate and sudden rainfalls, coffee was often in- 
jured. By the new method coffee is washed, and then dried 
by steam heat. 

In coffee plantations, trees are planted in parallel rows, from 
six to eight feet apart, and are pruned so as never to exceed 
six feet in height. Brazil produces about two-thirds the 
coffee used. Central America, Java, and Arabia are also coffee 
centers. 

Tea comes to us ready for use; coffee needs roasting. In 
process of roasting the seeds increase in size, but lose fifteen 
per cent, in weight. Roasting is necessary to develop the de- 
lightful aroma and flavor. Java coffee is considered finest. 
Mocha commands a higher price, owing to certain acidity and 
sparkle, which alone is not desirable; but when combined with 
Java, in proportion of two parts Java to one part Mocha, the 
coffee best suited to average taste is made. Some people pre- 
fer Maleberry Java ; so especial care is taken to have male- 
berries separated, that they may be sold for higher price. Old 
Government Java has deservedly gained a good reputation, as 
it is carefully inspected, and its sale controlled by Dutch gov- 
ernment. Strange as it may seem to the consumer, all coffee 
sold as Java does not come from the island of Java. 

The stimulating property of coffee is due to the alkaloid 
caffeine, together with an essential oil. Like tea, it contains 
an astringent. Coffee is more stimulating than tea, although, 
weight for weight, tea contains about twice as much theine as 
coffee contains caffeine. The smallei" proportion of tea used 



STANDARD COOKERY. 403 

accounts for the difference. A cup of coffee with breakfast, 
and a cup of tea with supper, serve as a mild stimulant for 
an adult, and form a valuable food adjunct, but should never 
be found in the dietary of a child or dyspeptic. Coffee taken 
in moderation quickens action of the heart, acts directly upon 
the nervous system, and assists gastric digestion. Fatigue of 
body and mind are much lessened by moderate use of coffee; 
severe exposure to cold can be better endured by the coffee 
drinker. In times of war, coffee has proved more valuable 
than alcoholic stimulants to keep up the enduring power of 
soldiers. Coffee acts as an antidote for opium and alcoholic 
poisoning. Tea and coffee are much more readily absorbed 
when taken on an empty stomach; therefore, this should be 
avoided, except when used for medicinal purposes. Coffee 
must be taken in moderation; its excessive use means palpita- 
tion of the heart, tremor, insomnia and nervous prostration. 

Coffee is often adulterated with chicory, beans, peas, and 
various cereals, which are colored, roasted and ground. By 
many, a small amount of chicory is considered an improvement, 
owing to the bitter principle and volatile oil which it contains. 
Chicory contains no caffeine. To detect adulteration by 
chicory, add cold water to supposed coffee; if chicory is pres- 
ent, the liquid will be quickly discolored, and the chicory will 
sink; pure coffee will float. 

Buying of Coffee. — Coffee should be bought for family 
use in small quantities, freshly roasted and ground ; or, if one 
has a coffee-mill, it may be ground at home as needed. After 
being ground, unless kept air-tight, it quickly deteriorates. If 
not bought in air-tight cans, with tight-fitting cover, or glass, 
it should be emptied into canister as soon as brought from 
grocers. 

Coffee may be served as filtered coffee, infusion of coffee, 
or decoction of coffee. Commonly speaking, boiled coffee is 
preferred, and is more economical for the consumer. Coffee 
is ground fine, coarse, and medium ; and the grinding depends 
on the way in which it is to be made. For filtered coffee have 
it finely ground; for boiled, coarse or medium. 

Coffee a la Frangaise. 

Take i cup coffee (finely-ground), 6 cups boiling water. 

Various kinds of coffee-pots are on the market for making 
filtered coffee. They all contain a strainer to hold coffee with- 
out allowing grounds to mix with infusion. Some have an ad- 



404 STANDARD COOKERY. 

ditional vessel to hold boiling water, upon which coffee-pot 
may rest. 

Place coffee in strainer, strainer in coffee-pot, and the whole 
on the range. Add boiling water at intervals of from five to 
ten minutes and allow it to filter. Cover the pot between each 
interval. These operations should extend over at least thirty 
minutes. Serve at once with lump sugar and cream. 

Put sugar and cream in cup before pouring in the coffee. 
There will be perceptible dift'erence if cream is added last. 
If cream is not obtainable, scalded milk may be substituted, 
or part milk and part cream may be used. 
For Boiled Coffee. 

Take two cupfuls of coffee, two eggs, two cups of cold water, 
twelve cups of boiling water. 

Scald granite-ware coffee-pot. Wash egg, break, and beat 
slightly. Dilute with one-half the cold water, add crushed 
shell, and mix the coffee. Turn into coffee-pot, pour on boil- 
ing water, and stir thoroughly. Place on front of range, and 
boil three minutes. If not boiled coffee is cloudy ; if boiled 
too long, too much tannic acid is developed. The spout of the 
pot should be covered or stuffed with soft paper to prevent es- 
cape of fragrant aroma. Stir and pour some in a cup to re- 
move collection of grounds from spout. Return to coffee-pot 
and repeat. Add remaining cold water, which perfects clear- 
ing. Cold water being heavier than hot water sinks to the bot- 
tom, carrying grounds with it. Place on back of range for ten 
minutes, where coffee will not boil; then serve with cream (or 
milk) and sugar as before. 

Egg-shells should be saved and used for clearing coffee, the 
clearing agent being the slight amount of albumen which clings 
^o the shell. Three egg-shells are sufficient to effect clearing 
ivhere one cup of ground coffee is used. 

Coffee made with an egg has a rich flavor which egg alone 
can give. Where strict economy is necessary, if great care is 
taken, egg may be omitted. Coffee so made should be serv»ed 
from range, as much motion causes it to become roiled "-or 
turbid. 

When coffee and scalded milk are served in equal propor- 
tions, it is called Cafe au lait. Coffee served with whipped 
cream is called Vienna Coffee. 

To MAKE A SMALL POT OF COFFEE. — Mix OUC CUp grOUnd 

coffee with one egg, slightly beaten, and crushed shell. To 
one-third of this amount add one-third cup cold water. Turn 




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STANDARD COOKERY. 405 

into a scalded coffee-pot, add one pint of boiling water, and 
boil for three minutes. Let stand on back of range ten minutes; 
when serve. The remaining coffee and egg, closely covered, 
should be kept in a cool place, when by simply re-heating, it 
may be used on the two successive mornings. 

To MAKE Coffee for One. — Allow two tablespoonfuls of 
ground coffee to one cup of cold water. Add coffee to cold 
water, cover closely, and let stand over night. In the morn- 
ing, bring to a boiling-point. If carefully poured, a clear cup 
of coffee may be served. 

After-Dinner Coffee. (Black Coffee, or Cafe Noir.) 

For after-dinner coffee use twice the quantity of coffee, or 
half the amount of liquid mentioned in previous recipes. Fil- 
tered coffee is often preferred where milk or cream is not used, 
as is always the case with black coffee. Serve in the usual 
small after-dinner coffee cups. 

Coffee retards gastric digestion; but where the stomach has 
been overtaxed by a hearty meal, cafe noir may prove benefi- 
cial, so great are its stimulating effects, but over-indulgence 
must be strictly guarded against. 

Kola. 

The preparations on the market made from the kola-nut 
have much the same effect upon the system as coffee and choc- 
olate, inasmuch as they contain caffeine and theobromine ; 
they are also valuable for their diastase and a milk-digesting 
ferment. 

Cocoa and Chocolate. 

The cacao-tree is a native of Mexico. Although success- 
fully cultivated between the twentieth parallels of latitude, the 
industry is chiefly confined to Mexico, South America, and 
the West Indies. Cocoa and chocolate are both prepared from 
seeds of the cocoa bean. The bean pod is from seven to ten 
inches long, and three to four and one-half inches in diameter. 
Each pod contains from twenty to forty seeds, imbedded in 
mucilaginous matter. Cocoa beans are dried previous to im- 
portation. Like coffee, they need roasting to develop flavor. 
After roasting, the outer covering of bean is removed ; this 
covering makes what is known as cocoa shells, which have lit- 
tle nutritive value. The beans are broken and sold as cocoa 
nibs. 

The various preparations of cocoa on the market are made 
from the ground cocoa nibs, from which, by means of hydraulic 



4o6 STANDARD COOKERY. 

pressure, a large amount of fat is expressed, leaving a solid 
cake. This in turn is pulverized and mixed with sugar, and 
sometimes, w^ith a small amount of corn-starch or arrowroot, 
with perhaps the addition of cinnamon or vanilla. Broma con- 
tains both arrowroot and cinnamon. 

Chocolate is made from cocoa nibs, but contains a much 
larger proportion of fat than cocoa preparations. 

The fat obtained from cocoa bean is cocoa butter, which 
gives cocoa its principal nutrient. 

Cocoa and chocolate differ from tea and coffee inasmuch as 
they contain nutriment as well as stimulant. The active prin- 
ciple is almost identical with theine and caffeine in its com- 
position and effects. 

Many people who abstain from the use of tea and coffee 
find cocoa indispensable. Not only is it valuable for its own 
nutriment, but for the large amount of milk added to it. 
Cocoa may be well placed in the dietary of a child after his 
third year, while chocolate should be avoided as a beverage, 
but may be given as a confection. Invalids and those of weak 
digestion can take cocoa, where chocolate would prove too rich. 

For Cocoa Shells. 

Take two cups of cocoa shells, twelve cups of boiling water. 

Boil shells and water three hours ; as water boils away it 
will be necessary to add more. Strain, and serve with milk 
and sugar. By adding two-thirds cup of cocoa nibs, a much 
more satisfactory drink is obtained. 

For Cracked Cocoa. 

Take three tablespoon fuls of prepared cocoa, four table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, four cups of boiling water, four cups of 
milk. 

Scald milk. Mix cocoa, sugar and a pinch of salt, dilute 
with one-half cup boiling water to make smooth paste, add re- 
maining water, and boil one minute; turn into scalded milk and 
beat three minutes, when froth will form, preventing scum, 
which is so unsightly; this is known as milling. 

For Reception Cocoa. 

Take three tablespoonfuls of cocoa, one-quarter cup of sugar, 
a few grains of salt, four cups of milk, three-quarters cup of 
boiling water. 

Scald milk. Mix cocoa, sugar, and salt, adding enough 
boiling water to make a smooth paste; add remaining water 



STANDARD COOKERY. 407 

and boil two minutes ; pour into scalded milk. Beat three 
minutes, using egg-beater. 

For Chocolate. 

Take one and a half squares of chocolate, one-quarter cup 
of sugar, few grains of salt, one cup boiling water, three cups 
of milk. 

Scald milk. Melt chocolate in small saucepan placed over 
hot water, add sugar, salt, and gradually boiling water; when 
smooth, place on range and boil one minute; add to scalded 
milk, mill, and serve in chocolate cups with whipped cream. 
One and one-half ounces vanilla chocolate may be substituted 
for chocolate; being sweetened, less sugar is required. 

Chocolate. (Another Method.) 
Prepare same as previous recipe, substituting one can 
evaporated cream or condensed milk diluted with four cups 
boiling water in place of three cups of milk. 

Soyer's Medicated Coffee for Invalids. 
Prepare coffee as "a la Francaise" (pp. 403-404), and 
when ready to serve drop into the liquor three ounces of raw, 
very lean beef (previously finely minced and diluted with three 
tablespoonfuls of cold water). Place the coffee-pot at side 
of stove, to keep hot, but not boil, for two minutes. Then pass 
liquor through muslin and serve. An extremely nourishing 
and palatable drink for invalids. 



408 STANDARD COOKERY. 



JEWISH DISHES. 

In the hope that my book may appeal to all classes of the 
community, I give, in the following chapter a few recipes 
specially useful in those Jewish households where the regula- 
tions prescribed by the Jewish religion are strictly observed. 

As is well known to the majority of my readers, these regu- 
lations are not confined to questions of personal conduct and 
worship but extend also to questions of food and the methods 
of cooking the same. 

One has but to turn to that (possibly) least read early book 
of the Holy Bible — Leviticus — to realize how strict were the 
Mosaic laws in matters respecting food, clothing and personal 
cleanliness. And whilst many of those old-time injunctions 
have suffered by the passage of time, it is a notable fact that, 
in fundamentals at least, those relating to foods and their prep- 
aration still play an important part in the life of the strict, re- 
ligious Jew. Just what these rules and regulations are need 
not be capitulated here — they are familiar to all who observe 
them — and it only remains therefore to give the various 
recipes, not only as a means of reference to those who reg- 
ularly use them, but also as a matter of interest to those of my 
readers who, not being Jews, may yet take an interest in uni- 
versal cookery. 

It is possible, of course, that the passing interest may de- 
velop, and the casual reader be stimulated to give one or more 
of these Jewish recipes a trial. In such case I can safely 
promise a revelation both as regards preparation and resultant 
flavor. 

SOUPS. 
Barsht. 

Take some red beetroots, wash thoroughly and peel, and 
then boil in a moderate quantity of water from two to three 
hours over a slow fire, by which time a strong red liquor 
should have been obtained. Strain off the liquor, adding 
lemon juice, sugar, and salt to taste, and when it has cooled 
a little stir in sufficient yolks of eggs to slightly thicken it. 

This may be used either hot or cold. In the former case 



STANDARD COOKERY. 409 

it is usually strengthened with a little home-made beef stock, 
and is considered to possess valuable tonic properties. 

If after straining off the soup the remaining beetroot is not 
too much boiled away, it may be chopped finely with a little 
onion, vinegar, and dripping, flavored with pepper and salt, 
and used as a vegetable. 

Pesach Barsht. 

About a month before Easter, take one hundred-weight, more 
br less, of beetroot, which must be thoroughly washed and 
scraped. Place the whole in a clean barrel of sufficient size, 
adding five or six gallons of lukewarm water. Let this stand 
in a cool place until signs of fermentation are observed, when 
the cover must be removed and a fresh one of clean linen placed 
over the barrel. 

The liquor is boiled as required, with any condiments and 
spices that are liked, and may be used either hot or cold. It is 
considered to be an excellent tonic. 

Shabbos Shalend. 

Take a quart each of white haricot beans and pearl barley, 
wash them in several waters and drain carefully. Now place 
them in a covered cooking vessel with some marrow bones or 
some meat cut into very small pieces. Flavor with pepper and 
salt and add sufficient water to just cover. Cover the vessel 
and bake thoroughly. 

This is always done on Friday, and the vessel is left in the 
oven until required for the Saturday dinner, when it takes the 
place of the soup. So that this dish may not be of too thick 
a consistency, a little water can be added during the cooking 
process. 

A rich suet dumpling is sometimes placed in the midst of 
the shalend; or some parboiled macaroni, contained in an in- 
verted cup or jar, is baked with it. 

Yontuffsup. 

Take two pounds of rib of beef, half a chicken, a quarter 
of a turkey, and several pigeons. Place in a large cooking 
vessel with plenty of water, and add a split carrot and onion, 
a head of celery, a little parsley root, pepper and salt to taste, 
and a pinch of saffron. Let the whole simmer for two hours. 
The meat is then removed and can be used as a separate dish. 
Mazzakloyss. 

This is an accompaniment to the Yontuffsup described above. 

Prepare some Mazzamehl by crushing unleavened bread to 



410 STANDARD COOKERY. 

a fine powder. To each tablespoonful of this flour take one 
egg. Beat the egg separately, adding a very little ground 
ginger, powdered cinnamon, ground almond, pepper and salt. 
Now stir in the Mazzamehl and make into a paste with a suffi- 
ciency of chicken fat or clarified dripping. Form this paste 
into small balls and boil them for twenty minutes in the 
Yontuffsup previously described. 

Einlauf. 

Take four new-laid eggs and beat well into a semi-liquid 
paste with four tablespoonfuls of flour and a pinch of salt. 
Take up the mixture in large spoonfuls and drop from a con- 
siderable height into boiling soup shortly before serving. 

The secret of success in preparing Einlauf lies in dropping it 
from sufficient height. If merely poured into the soup it will 
not at all be the same thing — neither so light or agreeable. 

Fruit Soup. 

Take two pounds of plums, cherries, or red currants and 
raspberries, which carefully pick and wash, and boil to a 
pulp with a pint of water. Let it slightly cool and then stir 
in the beaten yolk of an egg and a little sugar. Strain the 
soup, which should, preferably, be served cold. 

FISH. 
Gafillte Fisch. 

Any large round fish, such as cod, hake, or haddock, may 
be used, but pike is considered best for the purpose. 

Wash and scale the fish with the utmost care, and remove 
the entrails. The head may be cut ofif or left on as preferred. 
Next wash the fish in several waters and rub well with salt 
both inside and out. Let it stand for an hour, then wash 
again and remove the bones. Next remove the flesh from the 
skin, an operation which requires great care in order that the 
skin may not be broken. The best method is to scrape off 
from within. 

Mince up the flesh with a small onion, some soaked bread- 
crumbs, a little parsley, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and bind to- 
gether with two or three beaten eggs and just a touch of but- 
ter. If preferred, a little ground almonds may be added. 
With the pulp thus prepared refill the skin and give it the old 
shape — of course the fish will be more bulky than before. 

Next place in a fish saucepan an onion and a carrot, both 
sliced, with two glasses of water, and cook gently till the vege- 



STANDARD COOKERY. 411 

tables are done. Then put in the stuffed fish and let it sim- 
mer for about an hour, according to size. When done, re- 
move the fish to a dish, add a little pepper, salt, and butter to 
the liquor, and pour over the fish. This may be eaten either 
hot or cold. 

Jewish Method of Frying Fish. 

Scale the fish with the utmost thoroughness, remove the en- 
trails, wash very thoroughly, and salt both inside and out. 
Then cut the fish into convenient slices, place them on a 
strainer, and leave them there for an hour. 

Meanwhile, place some flour in one plate and some beaten 
eggs in another, and heat a large frying-pan half full of oil, or 
animal fat. Now wipe your fish slices thoroughly with a clean 
cloth, dip them first in flour and then in beaten eggs, and finally 
fry until browned. 

Another Method of Frying Fish. 

Thoroughly mix six ounces of flour with an ounce of olive 
oil, the yolk of an egg, and a pinch of salt. Stir in one gill 
of tepid water and place the whole to stand for half an hour 
in a cool place. Next beat the white of an egg stiff and stir 
into the batter. Dip each fish into the mixture, then roll in 
breadcrumbs and cook in boiling oil. Butter must not be used. 

MEAT AND GAME. 
Descaides. 

Wash thoroughly several fowls' livers and then let them 
simmer until tender in a little strong Kosher stock, adding 
some sliced mushroom, minced onion, and a little pepper and 
salt. When thoroughly done mince the whole finely, or pound 
it in a mortar. Now put it back in the saucepan and mix well 
with the yolks of sufficient eggs to make the whole fairly 
moist. W^arm over the fire, stirring frequently until the mix- 
ture is quite thick, taking care that it does not burn. 

It should be served upon rounds of toast on a hot dish 
garnished with parsley. 

Gafillte Milz. 
Take the milt of an ox or a calf, thoroughly wash it, rub 
well with salt, and again wash it. Then split it open and 
scrape off the flesh until only a somewhat thick skin is left. 
Make the flesh into a pulp in the same manner as directed for 
Gafillte Fisch. Then put the pulp back in the skin and sew it 



412 STANDARD COOKERY. 

up carefully. Boil in plenty of hot water until well cooked, 
and serve very hot. 

Krepplekh. 
Make a fairly tough paste by mixing beaten eggs with flour, 
roll out very thin and cut into small squares. Next mince any 
Kosher meat with onion, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and dis- 
tribute the minced meat in small heaps on the squares of paste. 
Fold over each square diagonally so as to make a triangle, and 
pinch the edges of the paste together. The krepplekhs are 
then boiled in soup, and served very hot. 

Annastich. 
Cook one pound of rice in a quart of Kosher stock for half 
an hour, stirring frequently. Then add a chicken stuffed and 
trussed as for roasting; cover closely and cook thoroughly. 
After removing the chicken, pass the liquor through a strainer, 
add the juice of a lemon and the whipped yolk of an egg, and 
pour over the bird. 

VEGETABLES. 
Krosphada, 

Place two sliced onions with two ounces each of sugar, and 
spices, pepper and salt to taste, in a pint of pure malt vine- 
gar, and boil gently until the onions are nearly done. Let it 
cool a little and then stir in six beaten eggs and sufficient 
crumbled ginger-bread to make the whole quite thick. Place 
again over the fire for a few minutes, stirring frequently and 
mashing the mixture into a uniform paste; but be very care- 
ful that it does not boil. 

Tsimess. 

Take equal portions of parboiled spinach and sorrel, flavor 
to taste with ground nutmeg, pepper and salt, and add sufficient 
dripping to make the whole moderately moist. Place in a cov- 
ered bowl or other vessel in a slow oven. 

This is prepared on Friday and left in the oven to keep hot 
until required for Saturday's dinner. All green vegetables 
may be prepared in the same way. 

SALAD. 

Salt Herring Salad. 

Put a salted herring to soak in water over night, and the 
next morning wash well, skin it and remove the bones. Mince 



STANDARD COOKERY. 413 

the flesh with a raw onion and a hard-boiled egg, adding pep- 
per to taste and sufficient oil to moisten well the whole. 
Mix very thoroughly and serve with fish, either hot or cold. 

SWEETS AND CAKES. 
Mlinczki. 

Beat up some eggs with sufficient flour to make a semi- 
liquid paste of about the consistency of thick molasses. Pour 
this into a frying-pan in which a little oil or butter has been 
heated to boiling point, and place it on the hob or near a fire, 
so that without exactly cooking it will set into a stiff dough 
somewhat resembling a partly cooked pancake. Turn this out 
on a board and let it cool. 

Now peel, core, and mince one pound of apples with two 
ounces of ground sweet almonds, two ounces of powdered 
sugar, a pinch of cinnamon, and the juice of half a lemon. 
Mix well and then bind with the beaten whites of three eggs. 

Spread this mixture on the dough which in the meantime has 
cooled on the board, fold over, and tuck the edges in well. 
Then sprinkle well with powdered cinnamon and castor sugar, 
and fry in plenty of oil or fat. 

This is served either hot or cold as a sweet, but is better 
if served hot. 

Kremslekh. 

To each tablespoonful of Mazza flour (unleavened bread re- 
duced to powder), take one egg, a pinch of salt, half a tea- 
spoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of ground almonds, a few 
stoned and chopped raisins, a pinch of ground cinnamon, a 
spoonful of oil, or its equivalent of beef dripping, and just 
enough water to make the whole into a stiff paste. Mix the 
ingredients very thoroughly. " ' 

Now take a large enameled saucepan and about half fill it 
with oil or animal fat. Bring this to boiling point, but do not 
let it burn. Now shape the paste into small pieces and drop 
them into boiling fat, turning them continually until well 
browned and then take out and drain carefully on a strainer. 

This is a very popular sweet and may be eaten either hot or 
cold. In non-Jewish households, where Mazza flour is diffi- 
cult to obtain, plain unsweetened water biscuits crushed to 
powder can be substituted, 

Kindlekh. 
In a large bowl place one pound of fine flour. Make a hole 



414 STANDARD COOKERY. 

in the midst and pour into it a small yeast cake dissolved 
in a little milk. Let this remain until the milk and yeast 
have risen a little. At this point stir in the surrounding 
flour together with three well-beaten eggs, a quarter of a 
pound of butter, six ounces of sugar, a pinch of salt, and half 
a pint of previously mixed milk. Knead the whole into a 
smooth dough. 

Roll this out very lightly on a well-floured board, brush 
over with a feather dipped in melted butter, and strew thickly 
with chopped almonds, sultanas, and currants. Next fold over 
about three fingers' width of the dough. Brush the upper sur- 
face of this fold with melted butter and strew with mixed 
fruit and almonds. Fold over again and repeat the operation 
until the whole of the dough is folded up in layers somewhat 
resembling a flattened roly-poly pudding. Brush the top well 
with another feather dipped in beaten egg and cut the whole 
into thick slices or fingers. Let them stand for half an hour 
and then bake for an hour in a rather slow oven. 
Egg Marmalade. 

Make a thick syrup by dissolving one pound of sugar in half 
a pint of water over the fire, adding one ounce of pounded al- 
monds while the syrup is clarifying. Take off the saucepan 
and v;hen the contents have become moderately cool stir in 
carefully the well-beaten yolks of twenty eggs. It will need 
rather prolonged stirring to blend the eggs with the syrup. 
Now flavor with vanilla or wine, and cook over a slow fire, stir- 
ring constantly and taking great care that the mixture does 
not burn. 

Ramakins of Egg and Cheese. 

Beat three new-laid eggs and blend thoroughly with two 
ounces of grated cheese and one ounce of partly-melted butter. 
Place the mixture in little pans or saucers and bake in the 
oven. 

Almond Pudding. 

Whisk the whites of seven eggs with the yolks of ten, and 
stir into half a pound of pulverized sweet almonds with half 
an ounce of pounded bitter almonds, half a pound of castor 
sugar and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water. Blend very 
thoroughly and bake in a quick oven in a well-buttered dish. 
Powdered sugar should be strewed freely over it before serv- 
ing. 

Lamplich. 

Make a mincemeat by chopping finely eight medium-sized 



STANDARD COOKERY. 415 

apples, half a pound each of raisins, currants, and sugar, a 
little citron peel, two or three cloves, and a teaspoonful of pow- 
dered cinnamon. 

Cut some good puff paste into little triangles and fill with 
the mince, turning the corners of the paste over it so as to 
make little puffs. Place these closely together on a buttered 
baking-dish until it is full. Now mix an ounce of melted but- 
ter with a teacupful of thick syrup flavored with essence of 
lemon, and pour it over the puffs. Bake until done in a rather 
slow oven. 

Macrotes. 

Blend one pound of good light dough with two eggs, six 
ounces of butter, and add as much flour as may be needed to 
make the whole sufficiently dry. Make it into the shape of a 
French roll, and cut off rather thin slices, which should be 
placed before the fire to rise, and then fried in oil. Let them 
drain carefully, and when nearly cold dip each in very thick 
syrup flavored with essence of lemon. 

Gefulde Boterkoek. (Stuffed Butter Cake.) 

Make a paste by working three-quarters of a pound of but- 
ter into one pound of flour with three-quarters of a pound of 
moist sugar, a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, and a pinch of 
salt. 

Next mix half a pound of finely-chopped citron peel with half 
a pound of ground almonds, two pounds of powdered sugar, 
and three ounces of butter. Then flavor with half a spoonful 
of essence of vanilla and bind with the yolks of two eggs. 

Roll out the dough and divide into two parts. Place one- 
half on a well-buttered baking-dish, spread the mixture evenly 
over it, and cover with the other half of the paste. Brush 
with a feather dipped in beaten egg, and bake in a moderately 
quick oven for half an hour. When done let it cool, and 
then cut into convenient pieces. 



4i6 STANDARD COOKERY. 



A WEEK'S DINNERS FOR THE WORK- 
ING-MAN'S HOME 

SOYER'S PAPER-BAG COOKERY 
By one who has tried the Soyer Paper-bag System 

The era of Paper-Bag Cookery opens up a happier pros- 
pect to the wife of the working man, not only in the quality 
of the dishes she may prepare, but in more leisure for her- 
self. 

Lest any frugal housewife may be appalled at the prospect 
at having to use some two or three bags before she can pro- 
duce a dinner, let me state that all the following recipes, each 
of which I have tested personally, can be cooked in one bag, 
leaving only the pudding, pie, or tart to be considered. 

In drawing up these dinners for a week, I have had in mind 
a household consisting of mother, father, and three or four 
children, ranging from twelve to five years of age. 

It must be borne in mind that meat wastes practically not at 
all during the cooking process in the bag; therefore if you put 
four pounds in the bag, four pounds will come out. 

Sunday. 

Allow a quarter of a pound per head for each child, and 
half a pound per head for the two adults, and you will have 
two pounds left over, either for Sunday night's supper or 
for next day's dinner. As to vegetables, get a halfpennyworth 
of carrots, onions, and turnips, mixed, and two pounds of po- 
tatoes. 

Peel the potatoes, slice them very thinly, and leave in water 
till needed. Peel and slice the onion and turnips and scrape 
the carrot. Cut all into small squares. Wash well ; leave on 
a plate till needed. Take a little suet or two good table- 
spoonfuls of dripping. Rub this into half a pound of 
flour, and salt to taste, being careful not to overdo this, and 
a little pepper. Mix to the ordinary dumpling consistency with 
cold water, and shape into dumplings about the size of a big 
Brazil nut. 

And now for beef in the good old farmer fashion. 

Wash the beef well, but do not dry it. Sprinkle it with 



STANDARD COOKERY. 417 

seasoned flour — that is, flour to which a little pepper and 
salt have been added — on both sides. Now grease the large 
bag thickly with beef dripping. Take the potatoes out of their 
bowl. Do not dry them, but sprinkle them lightly with the 
seasoned flour. Then take the potatoes, carrots, turnips, and 
onions, and mix them all well together, sprinkling them with a 
very little salt. Take a handful of this mixture and some 
dumplings and put them into the bottom of the bag. Then 
put in the flank of beef. Press it in as tightly and as closely 
to the vegetables as possible, and if the bag admits put a few 
vegetables on top and under the joint. Add the remainder of 
the vegetables, etc., and close the bag. 

Light the oven gas beforehand, let it get as hot as it can 
for eight m.inutes. Then place the paper bag on the grid, 
put the grid on the shelf of the oven, and close the door. 
Turn the gas down half way, and leave the hag in for from 
an hour and a half to two hours. Then take out, empty into 
a very hot dish as gently as possible. Stir well with a spoon 
which has been dipped in boiling water. 

You will then have a dinner fit for a king. If you have not 
a wire grid you can use the ordinary gas grid. In this case 
allow another quarter of an hour for extra cooking. 

If you would like a sweet for which no attention is needed, 
and do not wish to use another bag, try the following: — 

Place a little sugar at the bottom of a clean empty jam 
jar, add a pint of well-washed gooseberries or peeled and 
cut-up rhubarb, half a pint of water, and cook the same 
time as the beef. If cooked in a greased bag instead of a jar 
this will be doubly delicious. When done serve it with sweet 
milk — i.e., half a pint of milk thickened with a tablespoon- 
ful of flour or corn-flour, and sweetened to taste. 

Monday. 

What is left over from Sunday will make the dinner for 
Monday. 

Grease a bag well as before. Cut up the remains of the 
stewed beef into small square pieces. Dust these with fresh 
seasoned flour. Put two pounds of potatoes, cut small and 
dusted with salt, into a greased bag as before. Sprinkle the 
meat with a little powdered sweet herbs, put into the bag, and 
add to it a handful of either rice, barley, or oatmeal, which has 
been soaking all night in cold water. If the water has not 
been quite all absorbed, add this also. Now add the remains 
of any gravy which may be over from the previous day. Close 



4i8 STANDARD COOKERY. 

the bag, place it on grid as before, and cook for sixty minutes. 
Turn out into a hot dish. Stir as before and serve. 

A jam turnover will be just the right sort of substantial dish 
to follow the beef. For this you must have a bag. 

Rub four ounces of lard or good dripping into half a pound 
of flour salted to taste till it crumbles well. Add sufficient 
cold water to make to a stiff paste ; roll out twice. Mark out 
a square and spread this thickly with any kind of jam liked. 
Fold over the two sides first and pinch well together. Now 
fold over the two sides in the same way. Brush over with 
water or milk, and sprinkle well with brown sugar. Put into 
the greased bag and bake for forty-five minutes. 

Tuesday. 

For this day try a new way of doing sausages. 

Take two pounds of cold boiled potatoes, pour on to them 
two wineglassfuls of hot milk or water, add a good big lump 
of dripping or cold bacon fat, and mash to a pulp, then beat 
up with a fork till quite light. Take one and a half pounds 
of either sausages or sausage meat (if the former, squeeze 
the meat out of the skins), and make into small cakes, each 
sausage making two cakes. Sprinkle a little finely-chopped 
onion on top of each cake. Make the potato pulp into thick 
round cakes, and put a sausage cake on top of each. Place in 
a well-greased bag. Close it, and cook in a hot oven for fif- 
teen minutes. 

This is a splendid way of using up cold potatoes, and a 
very quick emergency dinner for a washing day. 

Old-fashioned Irish plum porridge. Soak half a pound of 
oatmeal over-night in cold water. At the same time soak four 
ounces of well-washed currants in another dish. Grease a 
bag well, drain the currants, add them to the oatmeal together 
with a bit of butter the size of a walnut. Mix, place in the 
bag, close, and cook for fifty minutes in a moderately hot oven. 
Serve with sifted sugar and, if possible, a little cream. 

Wednesday. 

Let the dinner be roast and stuffed breast of mutton. 

Take a lean breast of mutton four pounds weight, getting 
the butcher to bone it for you. Make a stuffing with two 
ounces of stale breadcrumbs, a dust of salt and pepper, a 
finely-chopped onion, and a heaped puddingspoonful of minced 
parsley, or, if pressed for time, a little finely-powdered mixed 
sweet herbs. Add a good lump of dripping, or cut a little fat 



STANDARD COOKERY. 419 

from the thick part of the breast, chop this finely, and use in- 
stead of dripping. Bind if possible with an egg, or, failing 
this, use a little cold milk. Lay this mixture on the inside of 
the meat. Roll as tightly as possible, tie into place with clean 
tape or string. Grease the bag well. Put in one pound of 
peeled and halved potatoes, choosing these all as nearly of a 
size as possible. Then put in the meat. Add the other and 
put in the rest of the potatoes. Put in bag in a very hot oven. 
Lower the gas half-way (or push in the dampers), and cook 
for an hour and a quarter, or an hour and a half, according 
as the meat is liked — well, over or underdone. Turn out, 
serve with a little red currant jam, if jelly is not possible. 

Baked bread pudding will be found very acceptable after 
this. 

To make it, soak half a pound or more of stale bread over- 
night in cold water. Then beat up with a fork until quite 
light. Now add to it an ounce of brown sugar, two ounces of 
well-washed currants, two ounces ditto raisins, a little candied 
peel, and a good lump of dripping. Beat up the mixture thor- 
oughly. Sprinkle it thickly on top with brown sugar. Grease 
a bag thickly, put in the mixture, and bake for forty minutes. 
Open the bag, slip out gently, dust with sifted sugar, and serve. 

Thursday. 

Chop the cold mutton left over from Wednesday finely. 
Dust it with pepper, salt, a little powdered sweet herbs, and 
add to it a large finely-chopped onion. Sprinkle the whole 
well with seasoned flour. Add any cold gravy which may be 
over from the day before, and a couple of rashers of lean 
flank of bacon and a tablespoonful of Worcester sauce, with 
the same amount of water. Grease the bag. Put in the mince. 
Cook gently for half an hour, turn out, and serve with baked 
potatoes. 

A jam roly-poly pudding will be a nice finish to this dinner. 
It is too well known to need a recipe. 

Friday. 

A little fish once a week not only makes a nice change in 
the monotony of the midday meal, but is often a distinct sav- 
ing both in health and pocket. Stuffed and baked haddocks 
are delicious. 

For a family of six allow three or four small haddocks, or one 
large one. 

Make a stuffing in exactly the same way as described for 
stuffed breast of mutton. Wash the fish well and cut off the 



420 STANDARD COOKERY. 

head; then put in the stuffing. Sew up the fish or secure 
tightly with white cotton. Grease the outside of the fish 
slightly, this to take the place of the " bits of butter " put on 
the fish when the latter is cooked in the oven in the old way. 
Grease the bag well. Put in the fish and bake for from twenty 
to thirty minutes, according to whether two small fish or one 
large one is used. Slip out gently and serve with baked po- 
tatoes. 

Dressed macaroni will serve for a pudding. 

Take half a pound of cooked macaroni. Add to it a little 
white pepper, from two ounces to four ounces of grated cheese, 
and a liberal two ounces of nut margarine, which is quite 
equal to butter in every respect, and contains no animal fat 
whatever. Grease the bag well with the nut margarine. Mix 
the macaroni well up with the cheese and nut butter, put into 
the bag, and cook in a hot oven for ten minutes. Slip out on to 
a hot dish and serve at once. 

Saturday. 

On Saturday the housewife usually has a good deal of clean- 
ing up and mending to do for the morrow, so she will need 
something which does not require much preparation before- 
hand. 

Liver and bacon, always a highly appreciated dish, will 
meet the difficulty, and there is no fear of it "catching" in 
the bag if she should chance to be called away for a minute 
or two. 

Slice one pound of very fresh liver, dip each piece into flour 
nicely seasoned with salt and pepper. Put a piece of liver on 
top of each rasher of bacon. Grease the bag slightly. Put 
in the rashers and liver. Cook for twenty-five minutes. Open 
the bag, and slip out the meat gently on to a very hot dish. 
Put boiled potatoes round as a border, and pour the gravy 
over the potatoes. 

Jam buns are a tremendous saving of trouble when the 
housewife is very busy on a Saturday. Get half a dozen stale 
buns (penny buns are sold at three a penny, when stale, at any 
bakers). Split them open. Pour a little boiling milk or water 
over them. Spread thickly with golden syrup. Make very 
hot in a bag (greased). 



STANDARD COOKERY. 421 

SOYER'S PAPER-BAG COOKERY. 
INVALID COOKERY. 
Sweetbread Mackenzie. 
Blanch and trim a good-sized sweetbread, make a little 
imirepoix of vegetables, paying attention to the color of the 
vegetables and seeing that they do not brown. Cut the sweet- 
bread across the center, but do not halve it. Pound one ounce 
of pistachios and lay them in the slit of the sweetbread. Cover 
the sweetbread with the prepared vegetables and place in a 
well-buttered bag. Cook in a slow oven for thirty minutes. 
Dish the sweetbread, place the other ingredients in a fine sieve 
and lightly press the gravy through on to the sweetbread. 

Chicken and Rice Tea. 

Chop up half a raw chicken, wash a tablespoonful of rice 
in cold water and mix with the chicken. Wash a teaspoonful 
of pearl barley and add with a quarter of a pint of cold water. 
Put the whole in a small paper-bag and cook for forty to fifty- 
five minutes in a slow oven (300° Fahr.). 

Chicken Quennelle. 

Take the breast of one Surrey fowl, add a pint of white 
sauce and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Pound well, 
mix in one egg, pass through a hair sieve. Place in a bowl, 
add a quarter of a pint of cream and stir well. Form small 
quennelles with a spoon, place in a well-buttered bag, lay 
carefully on a grid, and cook for six minutes in a hot oven 
(350° Fahr.). 

Filleted Poultry for Invalids. 

Mince up finely a carrot, turnip, and onion, add a little 
ham, a pinch of sugar and salt, and place at the bottom of 
small well-buttered bag. Slice the breast of a fowl, lay the 
slices on the prepared vegetables, sprinkle with oiled butter. 
Seal and cook six minutes in a slow oven. Dish the fillets, put 
the vegetables in a small sieve, press lightly and pour the 
gravy over the fillets. 

Minced Chicken for Invalid. 

Finely mince the breast of a chicken, add a tablespoonful of 
cream, the yolk of an egg, and a little salt. Lay in a small 
bag, together with a small piece of toast placed at the side. 
Cook for five minutes in a hot oven. Serve in the bag. 



422 STANDARD COOKERY. 

Baked Custard for Invalid. 
Peel and remove the seeds from a slice of tomato, add a 
pinch of salt. Break three eggs and place the yolks in a bowl, 
add a tablespoonful of cream and half a pint of milk. Place 
the tomato at the bottom of a small pie-dish, stir in the custard 
over the tomato, place in a bag, seal, and bake for twenty 
minutes in a slow oven. 

Beef Tea. 

Put one pound of beef steak in a paper bag, seal it and put 
on grid in a moderate oven for twelve minutes. Take the 
parcel and place on a dish. Open the bag and you will find 
the natural gravy on the dish. Cut the steak and squeeze the 
juice from it, strain into a hot cup, and serve at once. Season 
to taste. 

Chicken Tea. 

Cut up half a fresh fowl. Break up the bones with a chop- 
per. Place in paper bag. Add two tablespoonfuls of water, 
seal up, and place on the grid. Allozv forty-five minutes in a 
slow oven. Strain as in the foregoing recipe and serve. 



THE END 



INDEX 



BEVERAGES. FRUIT AND 
OTHERWISE 

PAGE 

Aromatic Cup 399 

Bordeaux Punch 400 

Cafe Noir 405 

Capillaire Water 398 

Chocolate 405, 406 

Claret Cup 398 

Punch 397 

Club Punch 398 

Cocoa 405, 406 

Coffee a la Frangaise . . . 403 

Black (Cafe Noir) .... 405 

Boiled 404 

Medicated, for Invalids . . 407 

Fruit Punch 397 

Ginger Punch 397 

Grape Juice, Unfermented . . 398 

Heidelberg Punch 399 

Kirsch and Lemon .... 399 

Kola _ 40 ■; 

Koumiss 400 

Lemonade 395 

Marmalade Water .... 396 

Mead 400 

Medicated Coffee for Invalids . 407 

Metheglin 399 

Mint Julep 396 

Nonpareil Cordial .... 399 

Orange Bichof 400 

Drink (Hot) 396 

Orangeade 396 

Pineapple Lemonade .... 396 

Port Wine Negus 395 

Punch, Cold 395 

Racahout 401 

Rhubarb Water 400 

Sauterne Cup 398 

Soyer's Medicated Coffee for 

Invalids 407 

White Wine Fillip .... 395 

BREAD, ROLLS, MUFFINS, 
BUNS AND PASTES 

Afternoon Cakes 357 

Aniseed Cakes 357 

Baking-Powder Biscuit . . . 349 

Boston Brown Bread .... 342 

Bread; After Baking .... 339 

Baking 339 

Dumplings 343 

For Garnishing 348 

Making 338 

Brewis 34* 

Brioches 3fi4 

Buckwheat Cakes 3S7 

Buns 34S 

Butter Cakes 354 

Cheese Waferi, 354 

Coffee Cakes 344 



Coffee Rolls 344 

Corn Cake (with Molasses) . . 351 

Cornmeal Gems 350 

Crullers 360 

Doughnuts, Various . . 359, 360 

Drop Cakes, Fried . . . " '. 31^8 

Rye 359 

Dutch Apple Cake 345 

Emergency Biscuit .... 349 

French Rolls, Sweet .... 343 

Rusks 344 

German Toast 348 

Ginger Bread 3t;3 

Golden Corn Cake . . . . 351 

Graham Bread 341 

Grecian Easter Cakes . . . 355 

Griddle-Cakes, Bread .... 353 

Corn 352 

Entire Wheat 352 

Rice 352, 353 

Sour Milk 352 

Sweet Milk 352 

Health Food Muffins .... 347 

Hominy Gems 350 

Muffins 346 

Honey Cakes 35 s 

Hot Cross Buns 345 

Lemon Twists 35s 

Luncheon Rolls 343 

Milk and Water Bread . . . 341 

Milk Toast . 348 

Muffins, Berkshire .... 350 

Grilled 346 

Health Food 347 

Imperial 347 

Mountain 349 

Raised 346 

Raised Hominy 346 

Raised Oatmeal 347 

Raised Rice 346 

Rye 350 

Oatmeal Muffins 347 

Pop-Overs 351 

Rice Muffins 346 

Rolled Oats Bread .... 342 

Rum Fingers 3s6 

Rings 356 

Rye Biscuits 342 

Bread 34 1. 342 

Gems 350 

Muffins 3 so 

Scone (Paper-Bag) .... 285 

Cream 349 

Soyer's Cake without Flour . . 353 

Sparrow Cakes 355 

Spice Cake 353 

Sponge Cake Tarts . . . .356 

Squash Biscuits 347 

Supper Cakes 3 So 

Tomato Cream Toast .... 348 

Wafiles 357 



423 



424 



INDEX 



Waffles. Raised '35I 

Virginia ,58 

with Boiled Cider . . , , \^8 

Water Bread 340 

Toast ,47 

White Corn Cake 35^ 

Cornmeal Cake . . . . 351 

Wonders 354 

CAKE FILLINGS. FROSTINGS 
AND ICINGS. 

Almond Paste 368 

Boiled Frosting 365 

Brown Frosting 36,; 

Caramel Frosting 366 

Chocolate, (Boiled) Frosting 364. 36s 

Cream Filling 361 

Filling 363 

Frosting 364 

Fudge Frosting 367 

^ Icing 369 

Cocoanut Filling 362 

Coffee Cream Filling ... .361 

Butter 369 

Icing 368 

Confectioners' Custard . . , 369 

Frosting 363 

Cream Fillings, To Make . . 361 

Fig Filling 363 

Fondant Icing 367 

Frangipan Cream 369 

French Cream Filling .... 361 

Gelatine Frosting 363 

Ice Cream Frosting .... 36"; 

Lemon Cocoanut Cream . . . 362 

Filling 361 

Maple Sugar Frosting . . . 365 

Marshmallow Frosting . . . 367 

Paste 363 

Milk Frosting 36(5 

Mocha Frosting 367 

Nut Caramel Frosting . . . 366 

Nut or Fruit Filling .... 362 

Opera Caramel Frosting . . . 366 

Orange Filling 362 

Frosting 363 

Ornamental Frosting . . 367, 368 

Pistachio Paste 363 

Plain Frosting 364 

Prune Almond Filling . . . 363 

Strawberry Filling .... 361 

Transparent Icing 369 

White Mountain Cream . . . 364 

CEREALS. DISHES MADE 
WITH. 

Cereal with Fruit . _ . . . . 371 

Cornmeal Mush, Fried . . . 372 

Gnocci 381 

Hominy, Fried 372 

Kedgeree Custard .... 380 

Macaroni a I'ltalienne . . . 374 

a la Napolitaine .... 373 

and Baked Tomatoes . . . 373 

and Spaghetti, Boiled . . . 373 

Baked 374 

Buttered 373 

Cutlets 372 



. ^. 'AC* 

Macaroni Pie 372 

Pontifical 375 

Macaroni with Cheese . . . 374 

with Tomato Sauce .... 374 

with Tomatoes 372 

with White Sauce .... 374 

Oatmeal Mush with Apples . . 371 

Rice, Carmelite 376 

Steamed 377 

Boiled 377 

with Cheese 377 

Fried 378 

Devilled 378 

a I'ltalienne 378 

and Cabbage made with Stock 379 

and Cheese Croquettes . . 379 

and Chicken Andalusien . . 376 

and Tomato Kedgeree . . . 379 

Cakes 379 

Casolettes 380 

Fritters 378 

Pilaff of 380 

Pudding 376 

Timbal of, with Buttered Eggs 380 

To Boil 375 

Risotto a la Milanaise . . . 378 

Creole 377 

made with Stock .... 379 

Semolina Cakes 380 

Puddingy 381 

Spaghetti a I'lndienne. . . . 381 

Pudding 381 

Table for Cooking Cereals . . 371 

Vermicelli 381 

CHEESE DISHES (See also under 
" Savories "). 

Artichokes with Cheese . . . 125 

Asparagus and Cheese . . . 126 

Baked Cheese Sandwiches . . 307 

Cabbage with Cheese Sauce . . 127 

Cheese and Egg Toast . . . 309 

and Macaroni Balls . . . 311 

" Tartlets . . 309 

Biscuits 310 

Canapes 308 

Cream Tartlets 310 

Creams in Cases .... 309 

Croutons 308 

Custard . . . . . 308, 313 

Custard Pudding .... 308 

Fingers 311 

Pastry 309 

Patties 308 

Cheese Pudding 312 

Pie 307 

Puffets 310 

Souffle 311 

Straws 310 

" and Biscuits, Pastry for 310 

Tartlets 310 

Zephyrs 310 

French Beans with Cheese Sauce 126 

Parmesan Eggs 307 

Puffs 307 

Potatoes and Cheese .... 144 

Savory Cheese Pancakes . . . 311 
made with Cheese and Cream 

fPaper-Bag) 313 

Welsh Rarebit 307 



INDEX 



42s 



COLORINGS, ESSENCES AND 
FLAVORINGS. VARIOUS. 

PAGE 

Aromatic Herbs, List of . . . 394 

Black Jack, or Essence Parisian 392 

Bouquet-Garni 394 

Essence Parisian (B)ack Jack) 392 

Green Spinach Coloring . . . 392 

Lemon Essence 392 

Pungent Flavorings .... 394 

Saline Seasonings 394 

Sel-a-Picer (Spice Salt) . . 393 

Soyer's All-Spice 393 

Spice Salt 394. 

Vanilla Essence 393 

CONSOMMES— SOUPS. 

Artichoke Soup 10 

Autumn Soup 8 

Barley Soup 30 

Blackberry Soup 33 

Bouillabaisse 25 

Cabbage Soup 17 

Celery Puree 17 

Cheese Soup 34 

Chestnut Soup ...... 32 

Chicken Consomme .... 3 

Chicory Soup 16 

Chlodnik Soup (Rhubarb) . . 33 

Clear Fish Soup 3 

Game Soup 3 

Soup I 

Vegetable Soup 4 

Cod Soup ....... 23 

Consomme a L'Cossaise ... 19 

Alexandra 9 

Ambassadeur 10 

Andalusien 12 

aux Diablotins 31 

Boheme 12 

Bouquetiere 13 

Bourdaloue iS 

Brunoise 31 

Carmen iS 

Castellane 27 

Chartreuse 15 

Colombine 34 

Demidoff 6 

Deslignac 6 

Diplomats 27 

Divette 19 

Fermiere 13, 14 

Florentine 28 

Gauloise 19 

Printanier S 

Printanier aux Quenelles . . 6 

Rachel 31 

Salburg 12 

Crecy Soup 11 

Creme d'Artichoke Soup ... n 

Croute au Pot 6 

Cucumber Soup 18 

Duck Soup 28 

Eel Soup 25 

Egg Soup ....... 35 

Farmer's Soup (Fermiere) . 13. 14 

Fish Broth ^ 24 

Consomme 3 

Soup 23 

Fisherman's Soup 26 

French Cabbage Soup ... 7 



PAGE 

Frog Soup 23 

Game Soup 26 

Garbure Soup 14 

Green Pea Soup . . . . 11, 13 

Hare Soup 37 

Haricot Soup 30 

Hodge Podge (Mutton) Soup . 20 

Irish Soup 22 

Italian Paste Soup .... 3a 

Jackson Soup 17 

Jacqueline Soup 28 

Julienne Soup 8 

Leek Soup 16 

Lemon Soup 34 

Lenten Broth (Fish) .... 34 

Lentil Soup 39 

Liver Soup 33 

Lobster Soup 24 

Macaroni Soup .... 30, 32 

Maigre Soup 6 

Mock Turtle, (White), Soup . 21 

Mutton Broth 22, 23 

Soup (Hodge Podge) ... 20 

Neapolitan Soup 30 

Onion and Cheese Soup ... 16 

Broth 16 

Soup IS 

" Maigre 7 

Ox-Cheek Soup ai 

Ox-Tail Soup 30 

Oyster Soup 26 

Palestine Soup 11 

Pectoral Broth 29 

Pepperpot 18 

Piedmontese Soup .... 17 

Pigeon Broth 28 

Soup 29 

Portugaise Soup 9 

Pot-au Feu 19 

Potage Bortsch 18 

Printaniere Soup 5 

Pumpkin Soup 33 

Punchero 22 

Puree Bonne Femme ... 14 

of Carrots 11 

of Vegetable Soup .... 7 

Rabbit Soup 27 

Rliubarb Soup (Chlodnik) . . 33 

Rice Soup 32 

Russian \'egetable Soup (Tchi) . 18 

Scotch Cock-a-Leekie .... 8 

Semolina Soup 32 

Shrimp Cream 2s 

Stock for Brown Sauce ... a 

Tchi (Russian Vegetable Soup) 18 

Thick Fish Soup 4 

Tomato Soup (Portugaise) . . 9 

Turnip Soup 18 

N'ermicelli Soup 31 

Watercress Soup 16 

White Mock-Turtle Soup . . 21 

Thick Stock for Soup and 

Sauces 2 

Winter Pea Soup 12 

EGG-DISHES (.^ee also under 
" Souffles." 

Baked Eggs 202 

" and Tomatoes . . 203 

" in Cases . . . 203 



426 



INDEX 



PAGE 

Bcrcy Eggs 207 

Birds' Nest 205 

Broiled Eggs 204 

Buttered Eggs 200 

" and Mushrooms 200 

Cabbage and Egg . . . . 127 

Carmelite Eggs 207 

Cold Eggs a I'Andalouse . . 222 

a la Neva . . . 224 

" a la Reine ... 224 

" Argenteuil , . . 222 

" Capucin .... 223 

" Careme .... 223 

" Colbert .... 223 

" Deutschland . . . 224 

" Frou-Frou . . . 223 

Corn and Egg Toast . . . . 134 

and Omelette 133 

with Buttered Egg . . . . 133 

Creamed Eggs 203 

Curried Eggs 201 

Deviled Eggs 208 

Egg and Cauliflower Croustades 206 

and Sausage Salad .... 20s 

Cutlets 201 

Kromeskies 204 

Sandwiches 203 

a la Florence 208 

a la Lucerne 201 

a la I'ortugaise 209 

a la Reine 205, 209 

a la Tripe 213 

and Artichokes 124 

and Cheese 203 

and Chestnuts 206 

and Rice Cutlets with Maca- 
roni 204 

au Gratin .... 203, 208 

en Cocotte 213 

" " a la Jeanne . . 214 

" " a la Lorraine . . 214 

" " a la Soubise . . 214 

" " Roulette . . . 214 

" " with Cream . . 213 

" " with Gravy . . 214 

" " with Morels . . 214 

in Batter 206 

in Ramakin Cases .... 206 

Printanier 215 

sur la Plat 204 

To Cook Soft-boiled . . . 209 

with Brown butter .... 207 

F'ricassee of Eggs 201 

Fried Eggs 207, 218 

" a la Bordelaise . . 218 

" a la Portugaise . . 218 

" a la Proven(;ale . 219 

" a la Romaine . . 219 

Hard-boiled Eggs Chimay . . 212 

" " in Croquettes . 212 

" " in Rissoles . 212 

Jockey Club Eggs 208 

Mirabeau Eggs 208 

Molded Eggs, Neapolitan . . 214 

" " Palermitaine . 215 

Mushrooms and Eggs . . . I37 

CEufs a la Reine 205 

Omelettes, a la Bruxelloise . . 219 

a la Choisy 220 

a la Lyonnaise 221 

a la Paysanne 221 



PAGE 

a la Provengale 221 

a la Rossini 222 

aux Fines Herbes .... 220 

Breadcrumbs 198 

Charles V 219 

Cheese 198 

Fermiere 220 

French 197 

French Bean 198 

Green Pea 198 

Jambon 198 

Mousseuse 221 

Parmentier 221 

Potato 198 

Princesse 220 

Spanish 199 

Tomato .... . . 199 

with Artichoke Bottoms . . 220 

with Asparagus Tops . . . 221 

with Cepes . . . . . . 219 

with Chicken's Liver . . . 220 

with Kidneys 222 

with Mushrooms .... 220 

with Spinach 220 

with Truflies 222 

Onion Puree with Poached Eggs 1,^9 

Pacha Eggs 208 

Parmentier Eggs 208 

Piedmontese Eggs .... 207 
Poached Eggs . . . 199, 200, 209 



" a I'Aurore 


210 


" a la Bohemienne . 


210 


" a la Bruxelloise . 


210 


'* a la Clamart . 


210 


" a la Comtesse . 


21 I 


" a la Reine . 


200 


" and Calves' Livei 


200 


" Argenteuil . . 


210 


" Boiel-Dieu 


210 


Colbert .... 


210 


" D'Orsay 


21 I 


" en Berceau 


210 


" Grand Due . 


211 


" in Rice Cases 


199 


" Maintenon 


21 I 


" Massena 


21 I 


" Mornay 


21 1 


" Rossini 


21 I 


" Sevigne 


212 


" Victoria 


212 


*' with Curried On 




ions 


200 


Potatoes and Eggs au Gratin 141 


Princess Eggs 


215 


Savory Eggs 


201 


Scrambled Eggs 


215 


" a la Piemontaise 217 


" a la Portugaise 217 


" Chasseur 


216 


" Chatillon 


216 


" Fines Herbes 


216 


" Georgette . 


217 


" Margot . 


217 


Orloff . . 


217 


" Rachel . . 


217 


" Rothschild . 


218 


" with Cheese 


217 


" with Morels 


217 


" with Mushroom 


5 216 


" with Shrimps 


216 


with Truffles 


218 



INDEX 



427 



Spinach and Errs 147 

Stewed I'-Kgs and Cheese . . . 204 

Stuffed EgRS a la Diable . . 205 
Vol au Vent of Asparagus and 

Eggs 125 



ENTREES 

Beef: — 

Amourettes 154 

Beef Cake iS4 

" Gateau iSS 

" Mold rs6 

" Olives 156 

" Scallop 1S4 

" Suzette 156 

" Timbole 157 

Bistecchi 158 

Casserole of Rice with Beef i s8 

Cold Pie ic;8 

Curry of Beef (Paper-Bag) . 187 

Dresden Patties 159 

Fillet de Bceuf a la Mirande 

(Paper- Bag) . . . . iqo 

Fillet of Beef (Paper-Bag) . 186 

Fillet of Beef with Shrimps . 160 

Grenadin of Beef 155 

Hashed Beef 160 

Marinated Beef 161 

Minced Cutlet 161 

Pickled Steak 161 

Rolled Beef 162 

Rolled Beef in Jelly . . . 162 
Roulade de Boeuf a la Napo- 

litaine (Paper-Bag) . . igs 

Sauerbraten . . . . . . i6.-? 

Spanish Onions with Kidneys 166 

Spiced Pressed Beef . . . 163 

Steak and Kidney Pie . . . 164 

" " Pudding . 164 

" and Tomato Pudding . 164 

Stewed Kidneys . . . . 166 

Stewed Roast Beef . . . . 161; 

Zrasi 166 

Lamb: — 

Braised Leg of 168 

Chops a la Maintenon . . 169 

Stewed Lamb's Heart . . . 169 

Stewed Neck of, ... . 169 

Minced Meat: — 

Cassoulic i8s 

Cottage Pie 1S3 

Deviled Meat 184 

Dumplings 185 

Meat Macedoine . . . . 179 

Roman Pie 183 

Savory Pasties 184 

with Vegetable Marrow . . 184 

Mutton : — 

Bredee 169 

Broiled Chop 170 

China Stew 180 

Collops . ^ 172 

Cotelettes a la Paysanne 

(Paper-Bag) .... 191 



Mutton, Continued — 

Cotellettes a la St. Cecile 

(Paper-Bag) .... 192 

Cotellettes aux Navetles 

(Paper-Bag) .... 192 

Chops 174 

Chops (Paper-Bag) .... 186 

Chops a la I'lilspagnol (Paper 

Bag) 191 

Chops a rindienne (Paper- 
Bag) 193 

Chops for the Nursery 

(Paper- Bag) . . . . 19.^ 

Chops in a Hurry (Paper- 
Rag) 192 

Deviled Chops 170 

Dolmas 170 

Economical Stew (Paper- 
Bag) 194 

Frickadels 171 

Grilled Fillets 171 



Hot Pot 

Irish Stew 

Irish Stew (Paper-Rag) . 
Kidneys, Stewed (Paper-Bag) 
Mouton Grille a I'lndienne 
(Paper-Bag) .... 
Mutton Chop (Paper- Bag) 
" " Scalloped 

" Steak Pudding 

" Stuffed Shoulder of 

" Triple Chops . 
Sheep's Kidneys (Paper-Bag) 

Pork: — 

Brawn 

Chops 

Kluskis 

Lomo 

Poerkoell (Pork and Veal) 

Poultry and Game: — 

Chicken Entree ( Paper-Bag) 
Chicken or Game on Spatch 

cock (Paper-Bag) 
Duck — Salmi de Caneton (Pa 

per-Bag) 

Fowl, Casserole of . . . 
Hare, Jugged .... 
Hare, Roasted (Paper-Bag) 
Hare, Stewed (Paper-Bag) 
Pheasant: — Croustades de 

Faisan a la Royale 
(Paper-Bag) 
Pigeon Pie 
Pigeons, Salmi of . 

" Stewed 

Poultry, Curry of 

Bag) . . . 

Rabbit, Curried . 

" Fricassee of 

Olla Podrida 

" Roasted (Paper-Bag) 

" Stewed (Paper-Bag) . 

Venison, Curried (Paper- Bag) 

Veal:— 

Baked . 

Camclon a la Royale (Paper- 
Bag) 

China Stew 



(Paper 



172 
172 
189 
189 

196 

186 
174 
174 
17s 
174 
189 



176 
177 
177 
177 
177 



'94 

167 
168 
188 
189 



190 
17s 
175 
176 

187 
178 
178 
178 
188 
188 
190 



19s 
180 



428 



INDEX 



PAGE 

Vkal, Continued — 

Coulibiac i8o 

Cream 183 

Curry of (Paper-Bag) . . 187 

Forcemeat Puddings . . . 180 

Goulasch iSo 

Kahab 180 

Kromeskies 181 

Minuten Fleisch .... 182 

Mock Rabbit 182 

Punski 182 

Savory Chops, Spaghetti . . 182 
Veal and Ham Pie (Paper- 
Bag) 188 

Veal Chop (Paper-Bag) . . 186 

Fried Liver 181 

Liver Dumplings .... 181 
Various: — 

Fish, Cold (Paper-Bag) . . 196 

Ham, Baked 167 

Sausages (Paper-Bag) . . . 186 
Sweetbreads au Naturel, 

(Paper-Bag) .... 187 
Sweetbreads, Escalop of 

(Paper-Bag) .... 186 
Sweetbreads, Fancy (Paper- 
Bag) 186 

Sweetbreads, Grilled . . . 179 

Tongue, Hashed . . . . 179 



FISH AND FISH SAUCES 

Anchovy Custards on Toast . 309 

Bacalao (Cod) 69 

Bass 68 

Brill 68 

Brill a la Comtesse (Paper-Bag) no 

Carp, Baked 68 

Sauce Matelote 68 

Stewed 69 

Cod a la Comtesse (Paper-Bag) no 

a la Valeska (Paper-Bag) . 107 

Boiled Crimped 69 

Bourgeoise (Paper-Bag) . . 105 

Crab au Grafin 70 

Crabs and Tomatoes .... 70 

Crevettes Marie 93 

Croquettes. Fish (Paper-Bag) . 106 

Eel, Conger 71 

Eels a la Tartare .... 71 

Fried 70 

on the Spit 71 

Spitchcocked 71 

Stewed 70 

Stewed (Paper-Bag) . . . 105 

Fish, Broiled 97 

Chartreuse 98 

Fish, Cooked a la Meuniere . 67 
Fish, Cooked on a Spit: a la 

Broche 66 

Frying a la Frangaise ... 66 

" a I'Anglaise ... 66 

Klosh 98 

Matelote 99 

on the Plate (Sole) ... 91 

Salad 98 

Stew 98 

Flounders, Water Souchet . . 71 
French Anglers' Way of Stew- 
ing Fish 100 



PAGE 

Frogs Legs, Fried 99 

Grilled Fish 66 

Gurnets 72 

Haddock a la Princesse (Paper- 
Bag) 106 

a la Royale (Paper-Bag) . . 106 

and Asparagus 72 

Baked 73 

Dublin Bay 72 

Fresh, Stuffed, (Paper-Bag) 106 

Smoked (Paper-Bag) . . . 106 

Hake (Paper-Bag) .... 107 

a la Valeska (Paper-Bag) . 107 

Halibut 73 

a la Minute (Paper-Bag) . . 107 

Herrings a la Russe (Paper-Bag) 107 

Herrings, Fresh (Paper-Bag) 108 

Sauce Dijon 73 

John Dories 74 

Kippers and Bloaters (Paper- 
Bag)^ 108 

Lobster a I'Americaine (Paper- 
Bag) ^ 108 

Mackerel a la Maitre d'Hotel . 74 

a la Napolitaine (Paper-Bag) 108 

Baked 75 

To Stew 74 

Mullet, Red or Grey (Paper- 
Bag) 77, 78, 108 

Perch 78 

Pike 78 

with Cream 79 

Plaice a la Meuniere (Paper- 
Bag) . ^ 109 

Filleted, a la Comtesse 

(Paper-Bag) no 

Preparation de la Mousse de 

Tomates 92 

Salmon (Paper-Bag) . . . . no 

a la Daumont 82 

Boiled 79 

Broiled 79 

Cold 84 

Salmon, Coulibiac of . . . 80, 81 

Croquettes 81 

" (Paper-Bag) . . 106 

Chops ........ 80 

Darne de Saumon a Chambord 82 

Darne de Saumon a la Royale 84 

Froid a la Norvegienne . . 84 

Kedgeree of 79 

Mayonnaise 85 

Medallion de Saumon ... 8s 

Mousseline Alexandra ... 83 

Salade de Saumon .... 85 

Saumon Froid en Bellevue . 84 

Slice a Royale 83 

Slices a Lucullus .... 83 

" a Nesselrode .... 83 

Stewed 81 

Scallops (Paper-Bag) .... no 

Shad, Baked 81 

Shrimps, Fried 70 

Skate 8s 

au Beurre Noir 86 

Smelts Milanaise (Paper-Bag) no 

Stuffed 86 

To Fry 86 

Snails in Shells 99 

Sole a la Daumont .... 88 

a la Meuniere 87 



INDEX 



429 



PAGE 

Sole, Ambassadeur .... 90 

Arlesienne 87 

au Gratin 90 

BourRuigone (Paper-Bag) . ioq 

Colbert 88 

Duglere 8q 

Fermiere 8g 

Florentine 90 

Grillee . . ^ 89 

Grillee a rAmericainc ... 89 

HoUandaise 89 

Lemon, a la Comtesse (Paper- 

Bas) 109 

Mornay 88 

Portugaise 90 

ProvenQaux 88 

sur le Plat 90 

Soles aux Fines Herbes ... 87 

Fried 86 

Plain 87 

Saute in Oil 87 

Soyer Pike Quenelles or 

Souffles 7S 

Sprats (Paper-Bag) . ... no 
Sturgeon, Economical Mode of 

Cooking 91 

Sturgeon, To Roast .... 91 

Tench, Stewed 91 

with Anchovy Butter ... 92 

Trout 93 

a la Burton 94 

a la Soyer (Paper-Bag) . . in 

a la Twickenham .... 93 

Salmon 9- 

Stuffed ....... 94 

Truite a la Cambaceres . . 92 

Tunny 94 

Turbot 94 

(Paper-Bag) no 

a la Creme 95 

a la Frangaise 9 5 

Stewed 95 

White Fish, Light, (Paper-Bag) 112 

Whitebait 96, 97 

Deviled 97 

Whiting a la Norniande (Paper- 
Bag) Ill 

au Gratin 97 

Fines Herbes (Paper-Bag) . m 

Fried 97 

Fish Sauces: — 

Anchovy Butter 104 

" Sauce .... 101 

Cream Sauce 10.^ 

Egg Sauce loi 

Fennel Sauce loi 

Lobster Butter 104 

Sauce lot 

" a la Creme . . 102 

" (Economical) . . 102 

Maitre d'Hotel Butter ... 105 

Matelote Sauce 104 

Melted Butter 100 

Mussel Sauce lo.l 

Oyster Sauces . . . . 102, 103 

Ravigote Butter lOS 

Shrimp Sauce 101 

FRUITS: FRESH AND PRE- 
SERVED. 
(See also under " Jellies ")• 

Apple Ginger 320 



A . ^ 'AGE 

Apple Sauce 3J0 

Apples, Baked 320 

Bananas, Baked 320 

Sauted "321 

Canteloupes, To prepare . . . 318 

Cranberry Jelly 331 

Sauce 321 

Fruit Cocktail 319 

Salad 322 

Grape Fruit, To prepare . . . 319 

with Apricot Brandy 319 

" with Sloe Gin . . 319 

Grapes, To prepare . . . . 318 

Oranges, To prepare . . . . "318 

Peaches, Baked "321 

Pears, Baked 321 

Pears, Border of 322 

Prunes, Stewed ., 321 

Quinces, Baked 321 

Rhubarb Sauce . . . . . 322 

Strawberries, To prepare . . . 318 

HORS-D'CEUVRES, WITH 
VARIOUS BUTTERS. 

Anchovies, Rolled 325 

Anchovy Allumettes . ... 32 s 

Fillets 325 

Paupiettes of 32s 

with Pimentos 326 

Aries Sausages 324 

Artichoke Bottoms .... 326 

Blinis of Caviare 328 

Bologne Sausages 334 

Brains Nievise 329 

Canapes and Toast .... 327 

Caviare, Blinis of ... . 328 

Duchesses ,^.v) 

Toast 327 

Celeriac 329 

Celery, a la Grecque .... 328 

" Bonne-Femme " . . . . 328 

Cherries a I'AUemande . . . 329 

Christiana Toast 327 

Creams, Molded 330 

Cucumber a la Nevegrode . . 329 

Salad 330 

Stuffed 329 

Duchesses 330, 331 

Eel, au Vert 326 

with White Wine and Paprika 326 
Eggs, Hard-boiled as a basis for 

Hors-d'Oiuvres 333 

Elena Toast 328 

Fennel a la Grecque . . . . 331 

Foie-Gras 331 

Sausages 334 

Goose, Smoked Breast of . . 333 

Hamburg Beef, Smoked . . . 326 

Herrings a la Russe .... 332 

a la Simone 332 

Filleted Salted, Salad of . _ . 331 
Herrings, Fresh, Marinaded in 

White Wine 331 

Lucas 331 

Paysanne ._ 332 

Jannctte, various 328 

Lark Pate 334 

Lyons Sausages 334 

Melon with Port, etc 3,12 

Norwegian Duchesses . . . . .331 



430 



INDEX 



Olives, Plain . 

Stuffed .... 

Oysters 

Red Mullet a la Greque 
Salami 



PAGE 

332 
334 
334 



Salmon, Smoked 3.1 ■; 

" Duchesses . . . 331 

Shrimp Toast ...... 327 

Soyer's Sauce RaviRote, or 

Mayonnaise without Krrs . 336 

Sprats 335 

Tartlets and Barquettes . . . 335 

Tomatoes a I'Americaine . . . 336 

Monegasque 336 

Quartered 336 

Tongue Toast 327 

Trout, Marinaded 336 

Tunny in Oil 335 



with Tomatoes .... 
Various Butters for Hors- 

D'ffiUVRES: — 

Anchovy Butter .... 
Butter, Clarified, To Make 
Caviare Butter . 
Caviare Cream . 
Chicken Cream . 
Crayfish Butter . 
Curry Butter 
Game Cream . 
Horse-Radish Butter 
Lobster Butter . 

" Cream 
Paprika Butter 
Pimento Butter . 
Red Herring Butter 
Salmon (smoked). Butter 

" " Cream 

Shrimp Butter . 
Tunny Cream 



336 



323 
323 
323 
324 
32"; 
323 
323 
324 
324 
324 
324 
324 
324 
324 
324 
325 
323 
32s 



INVALID COOKERY (SOYER'S 
PAPER-BAG). 

Sweetbread Mackenzie . . . 420 

Chicken and Rice Tea . . . 421 

" Quennelle 421 

Filleted Poultry 421 

Minced Chicken 421 

Baked Custard 421 

Beef Tea 422 

Chicken Tea 422 

Soyer's Medicated Coffee . . 407 

TELLIES. JAMS, PRESERVES 
AND FRUIT PICKLES 

(See also under " Fruits "). 



Gen 



Canning and Preserving, 

eral Instructions 
Cherries, Preserved 
Chili Sauce _ . 
Currants, Spiced . 
Damsons, Preserved 
Freezing Mixture for Ices 
Huckleberries, Preserved 
Ices, Freezing Mixture for 
Jam, Blackberry 

Raspberry .... 
Jellies, Preparation of Molds for 
Jelly, Apple 



302 
303 
306 
305 
304 
295 
303 
295 
300 
300 
29 s 
298 



PAGE 

Jelly Aspic 297 

Barberry 299 

Blackberry 299 

Calves' Feet 297 

Crab Apple 298 

Currant 298 

Currant and Raspberry . . 299 

Damson 300 

Grape 299 

Quince 298 

Raspberry 299 

for Venison 299 

Marmalade, Grape 300 

Orange 300, 301 

Orange and Rhubarb . . . 301 

Quince 300 

Melon Rind, Preserved . . . 305 

Peaches, Brandied 304 

Preserved 302 

Sweet Pickled 306 

Pears, Preserved 303 

Sweet Pickled 306 

Peppers, Red, Preserved . . 305 

Pineapples, Preserved . . . 303 

Quince Honey 301 

Quinces, Preserved .... 303 

Raspberry and Currant Preserve 304 

Rhubarb, Preserved .... 303 

Strawberries, Preserved . . . 304 

Tomato (Ripe), Pickle . . . 306 

Tomatoes, Preserved . . . 303, 305 

Tutti Frutti .304 

JEWISH DISHES. 

Soups: — 

Barsht 408 

Einlauf 410 

Fruit Sonp 410 

Mazzakloyss 409 

Pesach Barsht 409 

Shabbos Shalend .... 409 

Yontuffsup 409 

Fish: — 

Gafillte Fisch 410 

Jewish Method of Frying Fish 411 

Meat and Game: — 

Annastich 412 

Descaides 411 

Gafillte Milz 411 

Krepplekh 412 

Vegetables: — 

Krosphada 412 

Tsimess 412 

Salads: — 

Salt Herring Salad .... 412 

Sweets and Cakes: — 

Almond Pudding .... 414 

Egg Marmalade . . . . 414 

Gefulde Boterkoek . . . . 41 S 

Kindlekh 413 

Kremslekh 413 

Lamplich 414 

Macrotes 4'S 

Mlinczki 4^3 

Ramakins of Egg and Cheese 414 

JOINTS 

Beef, Boiled Salt 226 

Roast (Paper-Bag) .... 228 

Savory Round of ... . 226 



INDEX 



431 



Fowl, How to Roast . 
Hints about Roasting Meat 
Lamb, Stuffed Loin of 
Mutton, Baked Leg of 

Larded Leg of . 
Mutton (Paper Bag) 
Pork (Paper-Bag) 
Veal (Paper-Bag) 

Baked Fillet of . 

Rolled . . . 

Stuffed Breast of 
Venison (Paper-Bag) 



PAGE 
225 

225 
227 
227 
227 
229 

22() 
229 
228 
228 
228 
229 



PAPER-BAG COOKERY 




(SOYER'S). 




Fish :— 




Brill, Filleted .... 


no 


Cod a la Valeska . . . 


107 


Cod Bourgeoise .... 


105 


Filleted 


no 


Cold Fish 


196 


Eels, Stewed .... 


105 


Fish Croquettes .... 


106 


Haddock, a la Princesse . 


106 


" a la Royale . 


106 


(Fresh) Stuffed . 


106 


" Smoked 


106 


Hake, a la Valeska 


107 


Halibut, a la Minute . 


107 


Herrings, a la Russe . 


107 


" Fresh .... 


108 


Kippers or Bloaters . 


108 


Lobster a I'Americaine 


108 


Mackerel, a la Napolitaine . 


108 


Mullet, Red or Gray . 


108 


Plaice, a la Meuniere . 


109 


Plaice. Filleted . . . 


no 


Salmon 


1 10 


Scallops 


no 


Smelts Milanaise 


1 10 


Sole Bourgigone 


109 


" Filleted .... 


1 10 


" (Lemon) a la Comtess* 


: 109 


Sprats 


no 


Trout a la Soyer . 


in 


Turbot 


. no 


White Fish a la Soyer . . 


1 12 


Whiting, a la Normande . 


n I 


Fines Herbes 


II I 


Poultry: — 




Chicken, Bruxelloise 


120 


Roast .... 


119 


Cold Poultry .... 


196 


Curry of Poultry . 


187 


Duckling with Turnips . 


120 


Fowl, Various .... 


119 


Goose 


120 


Pheasant 


122 


Pigeon 


120 


Poulet a I'Americaine 


121 


" a la Marseilles . 


121 


" a la Reine 


120 


" aux Olives . 


122 


Quail, Roast .... 


120 


Turkey u 


9, 120 


Vegetables: — 




Asparagus 


151 


Beans, Broad .... 


151 


Marrow, Vegetable . 


ISI 


Mushrooms 


152 


Peas 


IS2 



Potatoes: — 

" Baked 15a 

New 152 

" Pommes Chateau .. . 152 
" Pommes Maitre 

d'Hotel , . . . 153 

_" Pommes Paysanne . 152 

Spinach 153 

Tomatoes 153 

Entrees: — 

Beef, Curry of 187 



186 

190 

I9S 
i83 
194 
194 



Fillet of 

" Fillet de Boeuf a la 

Mirande .... 

" Roulade de Boeuf a la 

Napolitaine 

Chicken, Entree of . . . 

" on Spatchcock 
Duck, Salmi de Caneton . 

Hare, Roasted ij 

" Stewed 189 

Irish Stew 189 

Mutton: — 

Chop . ..... 185, 186 

Cotelettes a la Paysanne . 191 

" a la St. Cecile . 192 

" aux Navettes . 192 

Chops a I'Espagnol . . . 191 

" a I'lndienne . . . 19.1 

" for the Nursery . . 19.1 

" in a Hurry . . . 192 

Economical Stew . . . 194 

Irish Stew 189 

Kidneys ... . _ . . 189 

Mouton Grille a I'lndienne 196 
Pheasant: Croustades de 

Faisan a la Royale . . 190 

Pork 189 

Rabbit, Roasted 188 

" Stewed 188 

Sausages 186 

Sweetbreads, Au Naturel . . 187 

" Escalop of . . . 186 

" Fancy 186 

Veal 189 

" Cannelon a la Royale . 195 

" Chop 186 

" Curry of 187 

" and Ham Pie . . . . 188 

\'enison. Curried .... 190 
Joint: — 

Beef, Ribs, Round of. Sir- 
loin of 228 

Mutton 229 

Pork 229 

Veal 229 

Venison and Sauce .... 229 
Sweets and Pastry: — 
Apples: — 

" Dumpling .... 284 

Petit Nid .... 28s 

" Pommes a la Duchesse 286 

" Pommes a la Mascotte 387 

Bananas 285 

Beignets a la Portugaise 

(Rice) 287 

Cakes, various 285 

Genoise Paste 285 

Pudding a la Baronne . . 287 

" a la Mayence . . 286 

'* a la Munich . . 286 



432 



INDEX 



PAGE 

Sweets and Pastry, Continued — 

Puff Paste 284 

Sausage Rolls 284 

Scone 28s 

Tart in a Pie-dish .... 284 
Breakfast Dishes: — 
Eggs: — 

flJufs a la Bechamel . . 389 

Qsufs a la Tripe . . . 390 

Qiufs aux Tomates . . . 388 
Fish:— 

Bloaters auv Fines Herhes 391 
Crab, Marechale de Ho- 

mard aux G£ufs . . . 390 
Haddock, IMerluche Fume a 

la Milanaise .... 389 

Kippers aux Fines Herbes 391 
Lobster, Marechale de Ho- 

mard aux CEufs . ._ . 389 
Mackerel, Kippered, Fines 

Herbes 389 

Soles, Filleted, Fines Herbes 391 
Foie Gras: — 

Croutes Strasbourg aux 

Oiufs 3Q0 

Riz a la Strasbourg . . 390 
Ham: — 

Jambon Milanaise . . . 391 
Rice: — 

Riz aux Crevettes . . . 390 

Riz a la Strasbourg . . . 390 
Tomatoes: — ^ 

Stuffante a la Milanaise . 390 
A Week's Dinners for the 
Working-Man's Home by 
Paper-Bag Cookery . . 416-420 
Invalid Cookery: — 

Beef Tea 422 

Chicken and Rice Tea . . 421 

" Minced 421 

" Quennelle . . . . 421 

" Tea 422 

Coffee, Soyer's Medicated . . 407 

Custard, Baked 421 

Poultry, Filleted .... 421 

Sweetbread Mackenzie . . . 421 

POULTRY AND GAME. 

Capon with Apples . . . . 117 
Chicken, Bruxelloise (Paper- 
Bag) 120 

Cannelons 116 

Cream 1 1 S 

Fried 116, 118 

Liver and Ham 113 

Rissoles 117 

Roast (Paper-Bag) . . . . 119 

Steamed 117 

Stewed 113, 118 

Stewed, with Rice . . . . 1 1 s 

Stuffed 113 

with Cheese 116 

with Tomatoes 116 

Duck Pie . . . . . . . 114 

Duckling, Aylesbury, with Tur- 
nips (Paper-Bag) . . . 120 
Fowl, Boiled, etc. (Paper-Bag) 119 
Stewed . . . _ . . . . 116 

Jacobin Pottage (Minced Poul- 
try) IIS 



T.arks in Onions . 
Partridge au Choux . 
Partridges with Cabbage 
Pheasant (Paper-Bag) 
Pigeon (Paper-Bag) . 
Poulet a I'Americaine (Paper 
Bag) .... 

a la Marseilles (Paper-Bag) 

a la Reine (Paper-Rag) . 

aux Olives (Paper-Bag) . 
Poultry Cassolette ... 
Quail, Roast (Paper-Bag) . 
Rabbit Cake 

Pie 

Turkey, Baked .... 

Boiled, etc. ('Paper-Bag) 1 1 

Venison, Stewed 

Woodcock, Stewed 



PAGE 
114 
118 

IIS 

122 
120 

121 
121 
120 
122 
IIS 
120 
114 
114 
11.1 
. 119 

IIS 

117 



SAUCES— VARIOUS (see also 
under " Fish Sauces "). 

Anchovy Butter Sauce ... 62 

Apple Sauce 52 

Bearnaise Sauce 44 

Bearnaise Tomatee Sauce . . 45 

Bechamel Sauce 38 

Bercy Butter SS 

Black Butter S8. 64 

Bourgeoise Sauce 63 

Bread Sauce . _ 52 

Brown Chaud-Froid Sauce . . 40 

Roux .36 

Sauce (Espagnole) .... 36 

Butter a la Maitre d'Hotel . . 57 

a la Meuniere 58 

Sauce 45 

Cambridge Sauce 54 

Cameline Sauce 64 

Caper Sauce 45 

Cardinal Sauce 46 

Celery Sauce 52 

Chasseur Sauce 40 

Chateaubriand Butter .... 56 

Sauce 46 

Chaud-Froid Sauce au Vert-Pie 46 

Sauce in Variety .... 40 

Cherry Sauce 64 

Cliivry Sauce 47 

Choron Sauce 45 

Colbert Butter 56 

Cranberry Sauce 52 

Crayfish Butter 57 

Cream Sauce 47 

Cucumber Sauce 60 

CulHses, Various 56 

Cumberland Sauce .... 55 

Curry Sauce 47 

Deviled Sauce 41 

Dutch Sauce 64 

Egg Sauce 52 

Eschalot Sauce 60 

Espagnole (Brown Sauce) . . 36 

Fennel Sauce 52 

Fish Veloute 38 

Garlic Sauce 61 

Genoa Sauce S3 

Gloucester Sauce 55 

Gooseberry Sauce 48 

Grand-Veneur Sauce , , . . 41 



INDEX 



433 



Green Coloring Butter ... 56 

Half Glaze 37 

Hazel-Nut Butter 58 

Herb Sauce 48 

Horse-Radish Sauce . . . 53, 55 

Hungarian Sauce 48 

Italian Herb Sauce .... 60 

Italian Sauce 41 

Jerusalem Artichoke Sauce . . 63 

Lent Chaud-Froid Sauce ... 47 

Liaison of Kggs 62 

Lobster Butter 57 

Lyonnaise Sauce . 
Madeira Sa\ice . 
Maitre d' Hotel Sauce 
Manied Butter 



41 
42 
59 

Marmiere Sauce 49 

42 
54 
58 
60 
61 
58 
49 



53. 



Marrow Sauce 
Mayonnaise Sauce 
Melted Butter . . 
Mince Herb Sauce 
Mint Sauce . 
Montpellier Butter 
Mornay Sauce . . 

Mousseuse Sauce 49 

Mushroom Sauce .... 46, 61 

Mustard Sauce 49 

Nantua Sauce 49 

Noisette Sauce 50 

Normande Sauce 50 

Onion Puree Sauce .... 63 

Orange Sauce 61 

Oriental Sauce 50 

Oxford Sauce 5=; 

Oyster Sauce 48 

Pale Roux 36 

Papillotte Sauce 62 

Parsley Sauce S3 

Perizueux Sauce 42 

Pignons Sauce 42 

Piquant, or Sharp Sauce . . 60 

Pistachio Butter 59 

Poivrade Sauce 43 

Poulette Sauce 50 

Printanier Butter 59 

Proven^ale Sauce 43 

Puree of Cauliflower Sauce . 63 

Ravigote Butter 56 

Ravigote Sauce . . 50, 54, 61, 336 

Reform Sauce 53 

Remoulade Sauce 54 

Rouennaise Sauce 44 

Roux, Brown 36 

Pale 36 

White 36 

Sauce Albufera 48 

Bercy 4S 

Bordelaise 39 

Diplomate 48 

Hollandaise 39 

Sauce Joinville 49 

Piquante 42 

Robert 61 

Supreme 51 

Shallot Butter 57 

Sauce 60 

Shrimp Butter 57 

Sauce 47 

Soubise Sauce 50 

" Tomatee ... 51 



Soyer's Sauce 62 

" Ravigote, or Mayon- 

naise without Butter 336 

Tarragon Butter 57 

Sauce 60 

Tartar Sauce 59 

Thickened Gravy 41 

Tomato Sauce 39, 62 

Torture Sauce 44 

Valois Sauce 45 

Various Cullises 56 

Veal Gravy Toniate ... 41 

Vegetable Sauce 59 

\'eloute de Volaille .... 38 

Veloute Sauce 37 

Venetian Sauce 51 

Venison Sauce 44 

Sauce (Paper-Bag) .... 229 

Villeroy Sauce 51 

White Bordelaise Sauce ... 45 

Chaud-Froid Sauce .... 46 

Roux 36 

Wine Sauce 51 

Sauce 62 

Wine Sauce 65 

SAVORIES (see also under 
"Cheese Dishes"). 

Cheese Biscuit (Paper-Bag) . . 313 

Crab and Crayfish (Paper- 
Bag) 313 

Filleted Deviled Kipper on Toast 

(Paper-Bag) 312 

Savory made with Cheese and 

Cream (Paper-Bag) . . 312 

of Lobster (Paper-Bag) . . 312 

•Oysters (Paper-Bag) . . . 313 

Soft Roe a la Soyer (Paper-Bag) 312 



SOUFFLES AND SOUFFLE 
OMELETTES. 

General Directions 
Apricot Fritters 

Souffle 

Banana Fritters 
Beetroot Fritters . 
Chocolate SoufHe . 
Cornflour Fritters . 
Croquettes of Fruit . 
Custard Fritters . 

Fried Puffs 

Indian Fritters 

Orange Souffle 

Prune Souffle .... 

Raspberry Souffle . 

Rice and Apple Souffle . 

Fritters 

Souffle Fritters .... 
Spanish Fritters . 



289 
201 
289 
292 
292 
290 
293 
292 
293 
293 
293 
290 
290 
291 
291 
293 
294 
294 



SWEETS AND PASTRY 



Pastry, How to Make 
Batter for Frying 
Brioche Paste 
Cakes, Various (Paper 
Choux Paste . 
Dripping Crust . 



Bag) 



230, 231 
233 
233 
285 
234 
234 



434 



INDEX 



PAGE 

Flaky Paste 234 

Flead Crust 234 

French Crust 235 

Genoese Paste 235 

Pastry 236 

Genoise Paste (Paper-Bag) . 285 

Neapolitan Paste 236 

Pancake Batter 236 

Paste for Raised Pies .... 236 

To Keep 237 

Transparent 237 

Pate Brisee (French Crust) . . 235 

Potato Paste 237 

Puff Paste . . . 231, 232, 235, 238 

Puff Paste (Paper-Bag) ... 284 

Rough, or Half-Puff Paste . . 238 

Short Crust 239 

" Plain 239 

" Rich 239 

Suet Crust 240 

" for Meat Pies . . 240 

" Rich 239 

Sweet Paste, for Tartlets . . 240 

Tarts, Tartlets, etc 241 

Alma Pudding, Steamed and 

Baked 241 

Almond Pudding, Baked . . . 241 

Apple Amber Pudding . . . 242 

Apples, Baked 242 

Apple Charlotte .... 242, 243 

Cheese-cakes 243 

Apple Dumplings, Baked and 

Boiled 244 

Dumpling (Paper-Bag) . . . 284 

Pie • . 247 

Pudding, Baked and Boiled . 244 

Tart 247, 248 

Timbale 248 

Apple and Rice 245 

and Sago 245 

Buttered 246 

Flaming 246 

Flan of 262 

Miroton 247 

Snow 246 

with Custard 245 

Arrowroot Pudding, Baked . . 248 

" Steamed . . . 249 

Austrian Pudding 249 

Baba with Rum Syrup . . . 249 

Babas with Kirsch 250 

Bachelor's Pudding .... 251 

Baroness Pudding 251 

Batter Pudding, Baked . . .251 
Beignets a la Portugaise 

(Paper-Bag) 287 

Berlin Pudding 251 

Black-Cap Pudding .... 252 

Black Currant Tartlets . . . 252 

Brandy Pudding 253 

Bread-and-Butter Pudding, 

Baked 253 

Bread-and-Butter Pudding, 

Steamed 254 

Bread Cutlets 253 

Brown Bread Pudding . . . 253 

Cabinet Pudding 254 

Canadian Pudding 255 

Caramel Pudding 255 

Rice Pudding 255 



PAGE 

Cassell Pudding 256 

Cherry Tartlets 252 

Chestnut Pudding . . . 256, 257 

Amber 256 

Chocolate Pudding . . . 257, 258 

Tartlets 258 

Christmas Pudding . . . 258, 259 

Corn Pudding 259 

Cornflour Pudding .... 259 

Cranberry Pudding .... 260 

Cream Buns 260 

Croquets of Rice 260 

Currant Pudding, Boiled . . . 260 

Custard Pie 261 

Custard Pudding, Baked . . 260, 261 

" Steamed . . . 261 

Damson Tart 261 

Eclairs 262 

Filbert Tartlets 262 

Fluted Rolls 264 

Frangipane 264 

Frangipan Tart 264 

Geneva Pudding 265 

Gingerbread Pudding .... 265 

Golden Pudding 265 

Gooseberry Pudding, Baked . . 265 

Tart 266 

Granville Tartlets .... 266 

Italian Pudding 266 

Jam Profiterolles 267 

Kleiner 267 

Lemon Cheese-cakes .... 267 

Pudding, Baked 267 

Pudding, Boiled 268 

Tartlets 268 

Macaroni Pudding 268 

Madeira Pudding 269 

Maids of Honor 269 

Mid-Lent Fritters 269 

Mincemeat (various) . . . 269, 270 

Mince Pies 271 

Molasses Pudding 281 

Nouille Pudding 271 

Oatmeal Pudding .... 271 

Open Tart of Preserve . . . 271 

Orange Tartlets 272 

Parisian Tartlets 272 

Pastry Sandwiches .... 273 

Pears, Compote of ... . 273 

Petit Nid (Paper-Bag) ... 285 

Pfeffernusse 273 

Picatostes 273 

Pineapple Flan 263 

Plum Pudding, Cossack . . . 274 

Pudding 274 

Polish Tartlets 274 

Pommes a la Duchesse (Paper- 
Bag) 286 

a la Mascotte (Paper-Bag) . 287 

Pound Pudding 274 

Prune Tarts 275 

Pudding a la Baronne (Paper- 
Bag) 287 

a la Mayence (Paper-Bag) . 286 

a la Munich (Paper-Bag) . 286 

Puff Paste Rings with Jam . . 275 

Pumpkin Pie 275 

Queen's Pudding 275 

Raspberry Tartlets .... 276 

Red Currant and Raspberry Tart 276 



PAGE 

Rice Fritters 276 

Roly-Poly Pudding .... 276 

St. Cloud Tartlets 277 

St. Denis Tartlets 277 

Sausage Rolls (Paper-Bag) . . 284 

Savarin 277 

with Pine-Apple 278 

Savoy Pudding 278 

Saxon Pudding 278 

Semolina Pudding .... 279 

Semolina, Timbales of . . . 280 

Snowdon Pudding 279 

Spaghetti Pudding .... 268 

Strawberries, Flan of . . . 263 

Swiss Pudding 279 

Tapioca Pudding 280 

Tart in a Pie-Dish (Paper-Bag) 284 

Tea, Cream of 280 

Torrijas 281 

Turnovers, Fruit or Jam . . 264 

Vanilla Pudding 282 

Vermicelli Pudding .... 281 

Victoria Pudding .... 282 

Viennoise Pudding .... 282 

Welsh Pudding 283 

Wine Pudding 283 

Yorkshire Pudding .... 283 

TASTY DISHES FOR BREAK- 
FAST, SUPPER OR HIGH TEA. 

Bacon Fritters 384 

Beef and Ham Pastie .... 384 

Sandwiches in Jelly . . . 385 

Corned Beef Salad .... 384 
Croutes Strasbourg aux Oiufs 

(Paper-Bag) 390 

Curry Scallops 385 

Filleted Soles Fines Herbes 

(Paper-Bag) 391 

Fish in Bread Cases .... 386 

Rissolettes 387 

with Macaroni and Tomatoes 386 

Ham and Rice Patties . . . 387 

Haricot Bean Salad .... 384 

Beans, Molded 385 

Jambon Milanaise (Paper-Bag) 391 
Kippered Mackerel Fines Herbes 

(Paper-Bag) 389 

Kippers and Bloaters aux Fines 

Herbes (Paper-Bag) . . . 30 1 

Lettuce, Stuffed 388 

Macaroni Cutlets 388 

Marechale de Homard aux 

CEufs (Paper-Bag) ... 389 

of Crab (Paper-Bag) . . . 390 
Merluche Fume a la Milanaise 

(Paper-Bag) 389 

Minced Galantine 387 

CEufs a la Bechamel (Paper- 
Bag) 389 

a la Tripe (Paper-Bag) . . 390 
aux Tomates (Paper-Bag) . . 388 
Riz a la Strasbourg (Paper- 
Bag) 390 

aux Crevettes (Paper-Bag) . 390 

Sandwiches 383 

Scalloped Kippered Herrings . 388 

Spicea Gammon of Bacon . . 388 
Stuffante a la Milanaise 

(Paper-Bag) 390 



INDEX 435 

VEGETABLES {see also under 



" Vegetable Salads"). 

PAGE 

Vegetables, General Instructions 123 

Artichoke Chips 123 

Fritters >23 

Artichokes and Eggs . . . 124 
(Bouchees d' Artichauts) . 124 

Cream of '^4 

Scalloped '23 

Scooped '24 

Stuffed >24 

with Cheese '25 

Asparagus, (Paper-Bag) . . 

and Cheese 

Boiled 

Stew , V ■ 

Vol au Vent of, and Eggs 
with Nut Gravy 



ISI 
126 
12s 
125 

I2S 
125 



Beans and Wine 126 

Broad, (Paper-Bag) . . ■ >5i 

Croustades of . . . 126 

French, with Cheese Sauce . 126 

Haricot »34 

" a La Milanaise . . . I34 

" with Tomato Puree i34 

Cabbage a la Creme . . • 127 

and Eggs |f7 

Baked '28 



Boiled 

Curried .... 

Red, and Apples . 

Sauerkraut 

Stewed .... 

with Cheese Sauce . 

with Cream . 
Carrots a la Flamande 

and Peas, a la Creme 

Glazed . . . • 

Stewed . • • • 
Cauliflower, Aigrettes of 

au Gratin 

Croutons . . . - 

Curried . . • • 

Fritters . . . • 

To Cook .... 

with Onion Sauce . 

with Tomato Sauce 



127 
127 
129 
129 

T28 
127 
128 
129 
130 
129 
130 
13' 
132 
131 

>3i 
132 
130 
13 « 
132 



Celery, Fried '3^ 

Corn and Egg Toast . . . . i34 

and Omelette '3-^ 

au Gratin '33 

Curried '33 

Fritters '34 

Rissoles '33 

with Buttered Egg . . . • '33 

Cucumbers, Stuffed .... 132 

White Puree '33 

White Sauce '33 

Lentil Fritters . . • • • • '35 

Marrow, Vegetable, (Paper-Bag) iS' 

Marrow, Vegetable, au Gratin 130 

" Fried . . • '3° 

" Fritters . . 138 

Stuffed . .137 

Mushroom Croutes .... 136 

Sauce '3° 

Mushrooms and Eggs . . • • '37 

and Tomatoes '3° 

au Gratin '36 



436 



INDEX 



Mushrooms Baked .... 

Blanched 

Broiled 

on Toast 

Stewed 

Stuffed 

(Paper-Bag) 

Onion Puree with Poached Eggs 
Onions, a useful hint .... 

Spanish, au Gratin .... 
" en Surprise . 

Stuflfed 138. 

To fry ......_. 

Peas and Carrots, a la Creme 
Peas, Green, a la FranQaise . 

" and_ Lettuce .... 

" Puree of 

" Stewed 

" with Bacon .... 

" (Paper-Bag) .... 
Potato and Cabbage Cakes . 

and Rice Cakes 

and Tomato Savory .... 

Balls 

Potato Croquettes 

Cromeskies 

Mold 142 

Pie 

Pies, Little 

Puflf Balls 

Puree 

Pyramids 

Ribbons ....... 

Potatoes a la Lyonnaise . 

a la Maitre d'Hotel .... 

and Cheese 

and Eggs au Gratin . 

Baked (Paper-Bag) 

Cream 

Curried 

Dutch Fried 

New . . .^ 

" RechaufTe of ... . 
" (Paper-Bag) . . . . 

Pilgrim 

Puffed 

Souffle 

Stuffed 

To Mash 

Pommes Chateau (Paper-Bag) 
Pommes Paysanne (Paper-Bag) 



PAGE PAGE 

137 Potatoes Pommes Maitre d'Hotel 

135 (Paper-Bag) .... 153 

135 Sauerkraut (Cabbage) . . . 129 

135 Seakale, l->ied 147 

136 with White Sauce .... 146 

137 Sorrel Sauce or Puree . . . 147 

152 Si)inaeh and Eggs 147 

139 Fritters 148 

138 Patties 147 

139 Pudding 148 

139 Puree 148 

139 with Cream 147 

138 (Paper- Bag) 153 

130 Tomatoes au Gratin with Eggs 149 

146 Jellied 149 

146 Pie ISO 

146 Puree 149 

14s Rice 149 

146 (Paper-Bag) 153 

152 Turnips a la Poulette . . . . 150 

142 Glazed 150 

141 Vegetable, Curry 150 

141 Vegetables, To Blanch ... 4 

141 VEGETABLE AND FRUIT 

142 SALADS 

142 Anchovy Cheese Cream . . . 317 
, 144 Apple and Celery Salad . . . 314 

145 Artichoke Salad 317 

140 Cabbage and Potato Salad . . 316 

144 Carrot Salad 316 

145 (Thapon 314 

141 Endive Salad 316 

143 Flemish Salad 315 

143 F'rench Bean Salad .... 314 

143 Haricot Bean Salad .... 314 

144 Hot Cabbage Salad .... 316 

141 Lettuce and Tomato Salad . . 315 
152 Lettuce Stalk Salad .... 314 

142 Nut and Celery Salad . . . 314 
140 Orange Salad 317 

144 and Cherry Salad .... 317 
140 Potato Salad 315 

142 Russian Salad 315 

152 Sardine and Onion Salad . . 316 

145 Vegetable Marrow Salad . . . 317 

143 Shrimp Salad 3 '7 

140 Walnut and Celery Salad . . 315 

140 Salad 315 

140 Watercress Salad 316 

152 Winter Salad 31S 

152 



UG 20 1912 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS l- :.,:r,v;^;^v^:- 



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